Deep red.
Deep, difficult nose - clay/earth, driving cinnamon, black cherry. A lifted reduction - which is absurd.
Completely, utterly, mouth-filling. This will piss some people off, primarily those that love Passopisciaro as a Pinot substitute. Definitely low-toned for Pinot, although the cinnamon edge/lift rescues it on the long finish. Major league (read "professional") bonefest. Not for those with scruples. But in the end, I think I prefer the Bondi. More intellectual stimulation there.
$100
Monday, November 30, 2009
Alesia, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2003
Evolved, light, red.
WTF - this smells like a killer, older, Chateauneuf (with suave oak treatment) - iron, wilted greens, earth, hazelnut liqueur, black pepper. Holy shit.
Round and mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that again makes me think of Grenache. Then some sour "greens" that take me north. Not at all your typical Pinot, and sure to freak out many Pinot-philes. Doesn't have the depth or length of the Bondi, but this is singular Pinot.
$45? Gift from Kelly Mulville years ago. The second label (purchased fruit) of Kevin Harvey's Santa Cruz Mtn venture, the name escaping me at the moment. (It's Rhys)
WTF - this smells like a killer, older, Chateauneuf (with suave oak treatment) - iron, wilted greens, earth, hazelnut liqueur, black pepper. Holy shit.
Round and mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that again makes me think of Grenache. Then some sour "greens" that take me north. Not at all your typical Pinot, and sure to freak out many Pinot-philes. Doesn't have the depth or length of the Bondi, but this is singular Pinot.
$45? Gift from Kelly Mulville years ago. The second label (purchased fruit) of Kevin Harvey's Santa Cruz Mtn venture, the name escaping me at the moment. (It's Rhys)
Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2003
Evolved red.
The usual sexy/sumptuous nose - spicy red cherry/underbrush/savory meat/cinnamon/hazelnut/earth. Integrated, seamless.
Round and mouth-filling, with a cinnamon edge/lift that keeps it real. Very interesting - I'm fairly certain that the cinnamon aspect is part of a disulfide issue. The 2001 Blue Slide showed it too. But who cares, the whole rocks. Round, sumptuous, lifted and extremely long. Nothing intrusive or out of place. Just continues to improve as it airs... Cherry, meat and cinnamon for minutes.
$75
The usual sexy/sumptuous nose - spicy red cherry/underbrush/savory meat/cinnamon/hazelnut/earth. Integrated, seamless.
Round and mouth-filling, with a cinnamon edge/lift that keeps it real. Very interesting - I'm fairly certain that the cinnamon aspect is part of a disulfide issue. The 2001 Blue Slide showed it too. But who cares, the whole rocks. Round, sumptuous, lifted and extremely long. Nothing intrusive or out of place. Just continues to improve as it airs... Cherry, meat and cinnamon for minutes.
$75
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Concha y Toro "Carmin de Peumo" Carmenere 2003
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - completely loaded, suave nose - smoke, toasted hazelnut, spiced fig, blackberry coulis and a green herb/veg component that is distinctive. Almost like green chile. Mr. Thackrey should source some....
Round and completely mouth-filling, with no sense of alcohol or desiccation. Seamless, with flavors vividly mirroring the nose. There's some serious structure here, but it rears its head quite late. Too late, in fact, to be intrusive. This is TFK. Great, subtle length. Congratulations to Concha y Toro for another great bottling of this variety.
$65. Carmenere, like Petit Verdot and Malbec, may well turn out to be another esoteric Bordeaux variety that rocks in many parts of the New World.
Vinturi - completely loaded, suave nose - smoke, toasted hazelnut, spiced fig, blackberry coulis and a green herb/veg component that is distinctive. Almost like green chile. Mr. Thackrey should source some....
Round and completely mouth-filling, with no sense of alcohol or desiccation. Seamless, with flavors vividly mirroring the nose. There's some serious structure here, but it rears its head quite late. Too late, in fact, to be intrusive. This is TFK. Great, subtle length. Congratulations to Concha y Toro for another great bottling of this variety.
$65. Carmenere, like Petit Verdot and Malbec, may well turn out to be another esoteric Bordeaux variety that rocks in many parts of the New World.
La Vieille Cure, Fronsac 2003
Purple/red.
Vinturi - sumptuous nose - savory grilled meat/suave oak/hazelnut liqueur. Black fruit underneath.
Broad (for Bordeaux) and round, initially, then serious acid/tannin constriction kicks in. This is packed and needs several more years to unwind. RFG. Black fruit and spice flavors run through it all.
$25
Vinturi - sumptuous nose - savory grilled meat/suave oak/hazelnut liqueur. Black fruit underneath.
Broad (for Bordeaux) and round, initially, then serious acid/tannin constriction kicks in. This is packed and needs several more years to unwind. RFG. Black fruit and spice flavors run through it all.
$25
Friday, November 27, 2009
Felsina "Rancia" Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Purple/red.
Vinturi - tar/creosote, black pepper, earth - difficult, loaded, nose. Needs coaxing. Savory, spicy meat drippings and black cherry sauce with time. Then white pepper.
Intense, linear, loaded middle-weight. Reminds me of great Bordeaux in that sense, just no (obvious) impression of new oak. Hard to differentiate flavors from structural elements here, inter-twined, synergistic. Nowhere near its prime. Give this at least 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Nothing difficult about the nose now. Really suave and savory, then serious structure kicks in, shutting down the mouth.
$40. Deal?
Vinturi - tar/creosote, black pepper, earth - difficult, loaded, nose. Needs coaxing. Savory, spicy meat drippings and black cherry sauce with time. Then white pepper.
Intense, linear, loaded middle-weight. Reminds me of great Bordeaux in that sense, just no (obvious) impression of new oak. Hard to differentiate flavors from structural elements here, inter-twined, synergistic. Nowhere near its prime. Give this at least 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Nothing difficult about the nose now. Really suave and savory, then serious structure kicks in, shutting down the mouth.
$40. Deal?
Passopisciaro, Rosso, Sicily 2006
Light, brilliant, red.
Vinturi - seductive, pure, vibrant nose - hazelnut, red cherry, cocoa, cranberry and earth. Very fine/discreet.
Round and mouth-filling with a simultaneous, serious, acid edge that frames everything and compresses it into a fastball down the middle of the mouth. Vibrant, taut red fruit and mineral character runs throughout. Just like the 2005, anyone that loves racy Burgundy will shoot a biscuit over this. Really beautiful, pristine stuff. It would be very interesting to taste this in 10 years.
$40. 100% Nerello Mascalese, an indigenous Sicilian variety. 14.5% alcohol listed. From Mr. Franchetti from Trinoro
Vinturi - seductive, pure, vibrant nose - hazelnut, red cherry, cocoa, cranberry and earth. Very fine/discreet.
Round and mouth-filling with a simultaneous, serious, acid edge that frames everything and compresses it into a fastball down the middle of the mouth. Vibrant, taut red fruit and mineral character runs throughout. Just like the 2005, anyone that loves racy Burgundy will shoot a biscuit over this. Really beautiful, pristine stuff. It would be very interesting to taste this in 10 years.
$40. 100% Nerello Mascalese, an indigenous Sicilian variety. 14.5% alcohol listed. From Mr. Franchetti from Trinoro
D. Ventura, Vina Caneiro, Ribeira Sacra (Spain) 2006
Deep red.
Vinturi - smoke/seared meat, herb/veg nose. Deep, with spiced fig underneath.
Round, with a wild, immediate hit of chicken broth, herbs and an aggressive acid/sulfide edge that mangles any flow or pleasure.
Apparently raised in stainless. Could use a whole lot of air. Or, possibly, many more years in bottle. Might work itself out.
$25. 100% Mencia
Vinturi - smoke/seared meat, herb/veg nose. Deep, with spiced fig underneath.
Round, with a wild, immediate hit of chicken broth, herbs and an aggressive acid/sulfide edge that mangles any flow or pleasure.
Apparently raised in stainless. Could use a whole lot of air. Or, possibly, many more years in bottle. Might work itself out.
$25. 100% Mencia
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Warre's, Vintage Porto 2007
Opaque black/purple.
Crazy, orgasmic, loaded aromas of Chambord reduction, pepper, earth, baked fruit confection. Huge depth, little sign of brandy.
Huge depth in the mouth as well, brandy/residual sugar effect just amplifies the massive black fruit and pepper action. Really refined finishing structure cuts directly through the sweet stuff, but does not kill the thrill. Absolutely FK. I must admit, I haven't generally loved the older bottles of Port I've had. I'm buying more of this and drinking it over the next 6-8 years.
Day 5 - More pepper now. Still ridiculously orgasmic. How is it possible that this sells for so little $$? This should retail for $100/375 mL or more. How can producers justify the expense with so little return? From what I've read, Port producers are at a real crossroads financially. Want to lose one of the greatest wine categories? I don't. Buy this stuff, drink it whenever you want. It will never disappoint.
$30, 375mL bottle. Buy it, love it.
Crazy, orgasmic, loaded aromas of Chambord reduction, pepper, earth, baked fruit confection. Huge depth, little sign of brandy.
Huge depth in the mouth as well, brandy/residual sugar effect just amplifies the massive black fruit and pepper action. Really refined finishing structure cuts directly through the sweet stuff, but does not kill the thrill. Absolutely FK. I must admit, I haven't generally loved the older bottles of Port I've had. I'm buying more of this and drinking it over the next 6-8 years.
Day 5 - More pepper now. Still ridiculously orgasmic. How is it possible that this sells for so little $$? This should retail for $100/375 mL or more. How can producers justify the expense with so little return? From what I've read, Port producers are at a real crossroads financially. Want to lose one of the greatest wine categories? I don't. Buy this stuff, drink it whenever you want. It will never disappoint.
$30, 375mL bottle. Buy it, love it.
Three Hills, Shiraz, Margaret River 2000
Purple/red.
Subdued nose (for this wine) hints at cracked pepper, eucalyptus, deep black fruit and savory meat/earth.
Round, seamless with some textural sweetness. Nicely delineated through the mid-palate and finish, with real lift and nice acid backbone that certainly comes across as "natural". This bottle is more corpulent than any previous, but lacks the clarity and wild lift of others. Opened yesterday, but not giving much up at all. Maybe it's time to drain any remaining bottles?
$40
Subdued nose (for this wine) hints at cracked pepper, eucalyptus, deep black fruit and savory meat/earth.
Round, seamless with some textural sweetness. Nicely delineated through the mid-palate and finish, with real lift and nice acid backbone that certainly comes across as "natural". This bottle is more corpulent than any previous, but lacks the clarity and wild lift of others. Opened yesterday, but not giving much up at all. Maybe it's time to drain any remaining bottles?
$40
Friday, November 20, 2009
Pure Love Wines "Layer Cake" Primitivo, Puglia (Italy) 2007
Purple/red.
Deep nose of black fruit coulis, shoe polish, oak spice(?) and earth. Serious.
Round, deep and a bit pruney in the mouth, but not ridiculously so. Fleshy mid-palate and much better than expected concentration keep this very enjoyable through the finish. Which gets earth/truffley like Amarone. A bit of acidity pokes its head out late, but this is RFG. Particularly for the $$.
$15. Saranex screwcap (higher oxygen ingress, somewhere between natural and synthetic cork)
Deep nose of black fruit coulis, shoe polish, oak spice(?) and earth. Serious.
Round, deep and a bit pruney in the mouth, but not ridiculously so. Fleshy mid-palate and much better than expected concentration keep this very enjoyable through the finish. Which gets earth/truffley like Amarone. A bit of acidity pokes its head out late, but this is RFG. Particularly for the $$.
$15. Saranex screwcap (higher oxygen ingress, somewhere between natural and synthetic cork)
Schloss-Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger" Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2008
Straw.
Spicy/peppery citrus zest, earth/lentil, lemon/pear jelly. Vibrant, distinctive.
Zesty, intense, citrus entry also reveals ripe pear and earth flavors. Great driving acidity pummels the "glands". Seems to have a touch of residual sugar that takes the edge off and lengthens the finish. God this stuff is killer/fun to drink.
$17 at Feast. Tin-lined screwcap. Forget music and Schwarzenegger, Gruner Veltliner is Austria's greatest gift to mankind.
Spicy/peppery citrus zest, earth/lentil, lemon/pear jelly. Vibrant, distinctive.
Zesty, intense, citrus entry also reveals ripe pear and earth flavors. Great driving acidity pummels the "glands". Seems to have a touch of residual sugar that takes the edge off and lengthens the finish. God this stuff is killer/fun to drink.
$17 at Feast. Tin-lined screwcap. Forget music and Schwarzenegger, Gruner Veltliner is Austria's greatest gift to mankind.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Pegau "Cuvee Reservee" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000
Deep red.
Vinturi - iron, cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/truffle, and a hint of celery on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling - ultimately a middle-weight. Iron and herbs echo strongly in the mouth, with a smoky/ember character kicking in as well. Fairly strong acidity drives moderate tannin onto the front teeth. Nothing brutal, however. Loads of fun with serious food. With additional air, this really does seem like it has seen time in at least some new oak. Lots of stem inclusion, but no new oak, though.
$50
Vinturi - iron, cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/truffle, and a hint of celery on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling - ultimately a middle-weight. Iron and herbs echo strongly in the mouth, with a smoky/ember character kicking in as well. Fairly strong acidity drives moderate tannin onto the front teeth. Nothing brutal, however. Loads of fun with serious food. With additional air, this really does seem like it has seen time in at least some new oak. Lots of stem inclusion, but no new oak, though.
$50
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas" Paso Robles 2007
Red/purple.
Vinturi - beautiful, vibrant, crushed raspberry, cream, spice and earth nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering fresh raspberry core. Here's a wine that has "energy" in spades, though not wildly complex. Acidity keeps this thing moving, eventually hitting the front teeth. I could drink a load of this. May try..
$22. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Counoise, 14.8% alcohol listed. Tin-lined sctrewcap.
Vinturi - beautiful, vibrant, crushed raspberry, cream, spice and earth nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering fresh raspberry core. Here's a wine that has "energy" in spades, though not wildly complex. Acidity keeps this thing moving, eventually hitting the front teeth. I could drink a load of this. May try..
$22. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Counoise, 14.8% alcohol listed. Tin-lined sctrewcap.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines "Les Clos Sacres" Savennieres 2005
Yellow.
Nose of slightly over-ripe pineapple, poached pear, quince jelly and a light popcorn note.
Deep and powerful in the mouth, with a bit of alcohol peeking out. Great mid-palate flesh/concentration cut by mineral/acid edge. Pineapple, truffle and popcorn flavors keep kicking into an extremely long, lightly chewy finish. Distinctive and killer.
$38. 14.5% alcohol listed. Dry Chenin Blanc (with full malo, I'd guess) from the Loire Valley. This estate owned by Mr. Biodynamics - Nicolas Joly.
Nose of slightly over-ripe pineapple, poached pear, quince jelly and a light popcorn note.
Deep and powerful in the mouth, with a bit of alcohol peeking out. Great mid-palate flesh/concentration cut by mineral/acid edge. Pineapple, truffle and popcorn flavors keep kicking into an extremely long, lightly chewy finish. Distinctive and killer.
$38. 14.5% alcohol listed. Dry Chenin Blanc (with full malo, I'd guess) from the Loire Valley. This estate owned by Mr. Biodynamics - Nicolas Joly.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Domaine du Mas Blanc "Junquets" Collioure 2004
Deep red.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, iodine, brown spices and a hint of celery on the idiosyncratic nose. Raspberry underneath.
Round and a bit flat in the mouth - little of Tanzer's "energy". Pleasant, but this just isn't interesting. A bit better with some air time, but not much.
$30. Syrah with 5% each Roussanne and Marsanne.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, iodine, brown spices and a hint of celery on the idiosyncratic nose. Raspberry underneath.
Round and a bit flat in the mouth - little of Tanzer's "energy". Pleasant, but this just isn't interesting. A bit better with some air time, but not much.
$30. Syrah with 5% each Roussanne and Marsanne.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Leon Barral, Faugeres 2006
Deep red.
Vinturi - earth/iron/fig sauce/grilled meat nose. Light roasted herb note too.
Round, with a really sexy, sweet, textural feel. Expansive, but not fat/easy, as there's a nice edge of acidity that builds into the finish. Spicy, plush, red and black fruit flavors flow through the finish. Another stupid deal from southern France. This rocks.
Day 2 - Not much has changed up front, but the finish already shows signs of oxidation. If you open it, drain it. Which probably won't be too hard for most (normal) people.
$19. Primarily Grenache and Carignan.
Vinturi - earth/iron/fig sauce/grilled meat nose. Light roasted herb note too.
Round, with a really sexy, sweet, textural feel. Expansive, but not fat/easy, as there's a nice edge of acidity that builds into the finish. Spicy, plush, red and black fruit flavors flow through the finish. Another stupid deal from southern France. This rocks.
Day 2 - Not much has changed up front, but the finish already shows signs of oxidation. If you open it, drain it. Which probably won't be too hard for most (normal) people.
$19. Primarily Grenache and Carignan.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
L'Oustal Blanc "Naick 6" White Table Wine
Full yellow.
Deep nose of jellied white fruit, pear, peach, popcorn.
Deep, in the extreme, in the mouth. The popcorn/sulfide density here recalls nothing less than a great Marcassin Chardonnay. In fact, this would be a great ringer in a tasting of CA's best Chardonnays. Lifted and incredibly deep, with an underlying minerality that cuts through enormous concentration. Holy shit on a stick. Doug Levy wasn't bullshitting when he recommended this.
$42. Mostly Grenache Gris, I'm told. I assume that this didn't satisfy the local wine police - thus the "white wine" designation. 2006 vintage? Who knows, or cares? TFK.
Deep nose of jellied white fruit, pear, peach, popcorn.
Deep, in the extreme, in the mouth. The popcorn/sulfide density here recalls nothing less than a great Marcassin Chardonnay. In fact, this would be a great ringer in a tasting of CA's best Chardonnays. Lifted and incredibly deep, with an underlying minerality that cuts through enormous concentration. Holy shit on a stick. Doug Levy wasn't bullshitting when he recommended this.
$42. Mostly Grenache Gris, I'm told. I assume that this didn't satisfy the local wine police - thus the "white wine" designation. 2006 vintage? Who knows, or cares? TFK.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007
Deep red.
Vinturi - deep, refined, nose - vibrant red cherry, nut liqueur (Amaretto?), earth and a medicinal nuance. All of this discreet and fine. Subtle vanilla (stems?) late. Beautiful, killer.
Round and suave, with restrained textural sweetness. Kirsch, earth and garrigue - intense and measured. Serious acid/tannin synergy amplifies finishing flavors. I haven't tasted a VT this refined and loaded. Worth the $$$.
$75
Vinturi - deep, refined, nose - vibrant red cherry, nut liqueur (Amaretto?), earth and a medicinal nuance. All of this discreet and fine. Subtle vanilla (stems?) late. Beautiful, killer.
Round and suave, with restrained textural sweetness. Kirsch, earth and garrigue - intense and measured. Serious acid/tannin synergy amplifies finishing flavors. I haven't tasted a VT this refined and loaded. Worth the $$$.
$75
Domaine des Soulanes "Cuvee Jean Pull" Cotes Catalanes 2007
Purple/red.
Vinturi - gorgeous nose - deep, sweet black fruit (cherry, raspberry), earth, spice and a hint of hazelnut. Call me crazy, but there's a powdered sugar element to the fruit.. Whatever - this has to be good.
Round and Grenache-y sweet, texturally, deep and concentrated. Acid-driven tannin moves quickly, constricting the mid-palate and finish. But there's little question that this just needs bottle-age. Loaded and stupidly cheap.
$18. 55% Grenache, 45% Carignan
Vinturi - gorgeous nose - deep, sweet black fruit (cherry, raspberry), earth, spice and a hint of hazelnut. Call me crazy, but there's a powdered sugar element to the fruit.. Whatever - this has to be good.
Round and Grenache-y sweet, texturally, deep and concentrated. Acid-driven tannin moves quickly, constricting the mid-palate and finish. But there's little question that this just needs bottle-age. Loaded and stupidly cheap.
$18. 55% Grenache, 45% Carignan
Domaine de Poulvarel, Costieres de Nimes 2007
Deep red.
Vinturi - idiosyncratic, southern French nose - basil, earth, deep, bass, black fruit, pepper and other "stuff" I can't articulate.
Round, deep and all bass in the mouth as well. Could use more lift, although that may well come with more air time. Lots of material, but not singing at the moment. Iron note in the constricted finish.
Day 7 - No sign of oxidation on the nose. I'd guess this to be primarily Mourvedre. Deep black fruit, spice and game flavors now show a perfumed quality in the finish.
$17. 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah.
Vinturi - idiosyncratic, southern French nose - basil, earth, deep, bass, black fruit, pepper and other "stuff" I can't articulate.
Round, deep and all bass in the mouth as well. Could use more lift, although that may well come with more air time. Lots of material, but not singing at the moment. Iron note in the constricted finish.
Day 7 - No sign of oxidation on the nose. I'd guess this to be primarily Mourvedre. Deep black fruit, spice and game flavors now show a perfumed quality in the finish.
$17. 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Vinosia, Aglianico, Irpinia 2006
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - slightly odd nose lacks lift. Deep, stewed black fruit initially. More vibrant with air - fig paste, ash, sexy spice action.
Deep and seems a bit sweet (?), with strong acidity tamping down any textural expansiveness. This is a strange one. A definite sense of some residual sugar and a dis-jointed acid contribution. Interesting attempt to commercialize/modernize Aglianico. Unsuccessful. Grapey and stupid.
$18
Vinturi - slightly odd nose lacks lift. Deep, stewed black fruit initially. More vibrant with air - fig paste, ash, sexy spice action.
Deep and seems a bit sweet (?), with strong acidity tamping down any textural expansiveness. This is a strange one. A definite sense of some residual sugar and a dis-jointed acid contribution. Interesting attempt to commercialize/modernize Aglianico. Unsuccessful. Grapey and stupid.
$18
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Shaya, Verdejo "Old Vines" Rueda 2008
Platinum.
Bright, lifted nose that could very easily be mistaken for NZ SB - kiwi, cat piss/gooseberry, grapefruit zest, "mineral". But this is riper, deeper.
Ditto in the mouth. Great depth of fruit and opposing mineral cut. Another wine with a sugar/acid cage match. Better as the wine warms in the glass. FK.
Day 3 - Still hammering the glands. The Shaya that shagged me?
$14.
Bright, lifted nose that could very easily be mistaken for NZ SB - kiwi, cat piss/gooseberry, grapefruit zest, "mineral". But this is riper, deeper.
Ditto in the mouth. Great depth of fruit and opposing mineral cut. Another wine with a sugar/acid cage match. Better as the wine warms in the glass. FK.
Day 3 - Still hammering the glands. The Shaya that shagged me?
$14.
Palacios "Petalos" Bierzo 2007
Purple.
Vinturi - roasted herb, grilled sausage, earth and vague black fruit nose. Again, more than a bit suggestive of the northern Rhone.
Deep, full entry, with acid/wilted green edge cutting through. Think of this as a Spanish Cornas, only way cheaper. Intense and loaded. Gutsy, just lacks clarity and some complexity.
$18
Vinturi - roasted herb, grilled sausage, earth and vague black fruit nose. Again, more than a bit suggestive of the northern Rhone.
Deep, full entry, with acid/wilted green edge cutting through. Think of this as a Spanish Cornas, only way cheaper. Intense and loaded. Gutsy, just lacks clarity and some complexity.
$18
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Domaine Chiroulet "La Cote d'Heux" Cotes de Gascogne 2007
Straw.
Wild earth/petrol/mango nose.
Deep, sweet (textural?) impression of peach/mango/citrus balanced by strong acidity, and, yes, a "minerally" quality. The earth character repeats late. The wildest of these whites, but killer, and stupidly cheap, as well.
$12. Gros Manseng - yet another esoteric white variety from SW France. 14 months sur lie.
Wild earth/petrol/mango nose.
Deep, sweet (textural?) impression of peach/mango/citrus balanced by strong acidity, and, yes, a "minerally" quality. The earth character repeats late. The wildest of these whites, but killer, and stupidly cheap, as well.
$12. Gros Manseng - yet another esoteric white variety from SW France. 14 months sur lie.
Domaine de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) "Clos des Allees, Vieilles Vignes" Muscadet 2007
Straw.
Mineral/talc nose, imploded lemon and almond underneath.
Intense, linear, lemon zest and "mineral" flavors go start to finish. This rocks, in every sense of the word. Another killer, cheap, minerally white.
$17
Mineral/talc nose, imploded lemon and almond underneath.
Intense, linear, lemon zest and "mineral" flavors go start to finish. This rocks, in every sense of the word. Another killer, cheap, minerally white.
$17
Cantina del Taburno, Falanghina, Taburno (Italy) 2008
Light yellow.
Extremely attractive nose of sugared peach/apricot/pear and a light floral note.
Some residual sugar maintains the sweet fruit character in the mouth. Mineral/acid synergy eventually asserts itself. Sugar/acid cage match hammers the salivary glands. Hard to stop drinking this.
$14. Falanghina is an esoteric white variety. Budwood finally available in the US next year.
Extremely attractive nose of sugared peach/apricot/pear and a light floral note.
Some residual sugar maintains the sweet fruit character in the mouth. Mineral/acid synergy eventually asserts itself. Sugar/acid cage match hammers the salivary glands. Hard to stop drinking this.
$14. Falanghina is an esoteric white variety. Budwood finally available in the US next year.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Trinoro "Le Cupole" Rosso Toscana 2006
Red.
Vinturi - low-key, suave nose of hazelnut cream and red fruit.
Round and reasonably plush, with acidity moving in quickly. Considerable constriction in the finish, but slightly candied red fruit flavors ride through it. Not yet showing much complexity, but my last bottle of the '96 showed extremely well last year.
$28. A Bordeaux blend.
Vinturi - low-key, suave nose of hazelnut cream and red fruit.
Round and reasonably plush, with acidity moving in quickly. Considerable constriction in the finish, but slightly candied red fruit flavors ride through it. Not yet showing much complexity, but my last bottle of the '96 showed extremely well last year.
$28. A Bordeaux blend.
Bielsa, Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Campo de Borja 2008
Bright purple/red.
Vinturi - bright, crushed black raspberry, earth, citrus/pepper nose.
Intensely citric in the mouth, with earth and herb undertones. Beaujolais substitute, with more weight and power. No fat, chewy and lean. Raspberry flavor kicks in late in the finish.
Day 4 - Even better now - nose is still bright, but deeper and shows some garrigue. Much more flesh in the mouth, though still has a citric underpinning. No doubt this will age very well (5-6 years). Thank God it has a real (not synthetic) cork. This rocks.
$11. Try this on Thanksgiving.
Vinturi - bright, crushed black raspberry, earth, citrus/pepper nose.
Intensely citric in the mouth, with earth and herb undertones. Beaujolais substitute, with more weight and power. No fat, chewy and lean. Raspberry flavor kicks in late in the finish.
Day 4 - Even better now - nose is still bright, but deeper and shows some garrigue. Much more flesh in the mouth, though still has a citric underpinning. No doubt this will age very well (5-6 years). Thank God it has a real (not synthetic) cork. This rocks.
$11. Try this on Thanksgiving.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Brumont, Gros Manseng - Sauvignon, Gascogne (France) 2007
Platinum/straw.
Nose of quince, baked apple, almond and spice. Hints of white peach, pear and lemon too. Wow and WTF?
Lemon grass flavor, intense and fleshy simultaneously. This has serious depth and length, forget about the stupid price. The Sauvignon delivers most of the flavor, but I'd suppose that the Gros Manseng adds flesh/depth. Subtle mineral chew on the finish. This rocks. Usually wines like this lose their "stuff" after a couple of years from vintage. This seems like it will drink quite well for at least another year (some residual CO2 keeping it lively), maybe several more.
$12 or less. From a great Madiran producer (Montus) who apparently loves the wines of Gascony.
Nose of quince, baked apple, almond and spice. Hints of white peach, pear and lemon too. Wow and WTF?
Lemon grass flavor, intense and fleshy simultaneously. This has serious depth and length, forget about the stupid price. The Sauvignon delivers most of the flavor, but I'd suppose that the Gros Manseng adds flesh/depth. Subtle mineral chew on the finish. This rocks. Usually wines like this lose their "stuff" after a couple of years from vintage. This seems like it will drink quite well for at least another year (some residual CO2 keeping it lively), maybe several more.
$12 or less. From a great Madiran producer (Montus) who apparently loves the wines of Gascony.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Pesquera, Ribera del Duero 2004
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - extremely attractive, sumptuous nose - earth/smoke/oak spice/grilled meat/custard/black pudding fruit. FK. Even some fresh herb action with air time.
Round and mouth-filling. Slightly saline. Great core of mid-palate fruit/flesh, whittled down slowly by acid/tannin synergy. Needs a few more years to give it up/express in the mouth. RFG.
$32
Vinturi - extremely attractive, sumptuous nose - earth/smoke/oak spice/grilled meat/custard/black pudding fruit. FK. Even some fresh herb action with air time.
Round and mouth-filling. Slightly saline. Great core of mid-palate fruit/flesh, whittled down slowly by acid/tannin synergy. Needs a few more years to give it up/express in the mouth. RFG.
$32
Monday, November 2, 2009
Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre 2007
Straw.
Nose of lime, grass and a "mineral" nuance. Hint of almond extract too.
Extremely zesty, bright, entry - lemon/lime/mineral chew. An attractive bell pepper note in the mid-palate. Citrus zest and flesh/mineral action drives through the bone dry finish. This is killer. Reminds me of the Grosset Riesling several days ago.
$18 Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Great deal.
Nose of lime, grass and a "mineral" nuance. Hint of almond extract too.
Extremely zesty, bright, entry - lemon/lime/mineral chew. An attractive bell pepper note in the mid-palate. Citrus zest and flesh/mineral action drives through the bone dry finish. This is killer. Reminds me of the Grosset Riesling several days ago.
$18 Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Great deal.
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