Wine Notes from Arizona

Paitin "Serra" Barbaresco 2007

2011-11-22T18:45:00.000-08:00

Light ruby/garnet.

Opened 3 days ago - nose is still great - roasted hazelnut/almond, cherry jam, dried rose, leather...

Intense entry is simultaneously plush and rigid, thanks to great fruit concentration and serious acid/tannin synergy. Red cherry and spice flavors ride through it all. The real deal (and approachable now). Buy it and drink over the next 6-8 years.

$25. Stupid cheap.

Domaine du Mas Blanc "Clos du Moulin" Collioure 2007

2011-11-16T18:16:00.000-08:00

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday - wild nose - acrylic paint (daughter Claire's contribution), cinnamon stick, salt water taffy, black olive, dark chocolate, grilled meat, prune, blackberry, A1 steak sauce... Incredibly complex. Obviously. And smells "dense" too. Loaded.

Round and mouth-filling with crazy cinnamon stick flavor immediately taking over and adding "edge". Much less precise in the mouth, but has real weight and density without being ponderous. This has gained in depth considerably over the last couple of years, and I wouldn't be surprised to see it continue to improve for 4-5 more years and drink well for many more after that.

$28. A blend based on Mourvedre I believe. The south of France makes some of the world's most interesting, affordable wines.

Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah, Sonoma Coast 2006

2011-10-23T18:43:00.000-07:00

Opaque purple/black.

Vinturi - Loaded, deep nose of menthol, melted licorice, kalamata olive, fig paste, toasted oak and brine.

Round, extremely deep and quite suave in the mouth. Absolutely loaded flavor pixel count. Grainy tannin suffuse palate. Saline character repeats in the mouth. Creamy, dense entry and mid-palate. This is FK and bound to improve with a couple more years in bottle.

$50. This is my favorite bottling of CA Syrah. Need to get some of the newer versions from Donelan...

Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

2011-09-26T19:16:00.000-07:00

Red with brick rim.

Opened yesterday - integrated, complex nose - iron, garrigue, earth/hazelnut, cherry liqueur.

Round, mouth-filling with great textural sweetness. Shows cherry coulis, grilled/dried herb and brazil nut flavors. Significant, sneaky, acid/tannin chew creeps up on the front teeth keeping textural generosity in check.. This is not a monster wine at all, but delivers considerable pleasure on every front. Beautiful stuff and RFG.

$50 on release. 2000 was a great year for Grenache in the southern Rhone and that is very obvious here.

Pax "Obsidian" Knights Valley 2003

2011-09-26T19:03:00.001-07:00

Opaque red.

Opened yesterday - deep Kalamata olive, melted black licorice, grilled meat, grilled herb, dried fig nose. Deep and saucy.

Low-toned palate impression, huge depth in the mid-palate is reined in a bit by seemingly strongish acidity. Not nearly as expressive in the mouth, but still quite a mouthful. It will be interesting to see if this gains the flavor complexity promised by the nose. But I think most folks won't quibble on this point.

$60. 100% Syrah.

Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux 2006

2011-09-21T19:15:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Opened yesterday - expressive nose of embers, campfire, blackberry, black raspberry and fresh earth.

Round, with very nice mid-palate coverage. In fact, acid/tannin synergy shows quite late, but makes up for lost time in the finish. Acid-driven constriction shuts down the front of the mouth. Just needs a few more years in the cellar (4-6?).

$35.

Torbreck "Run Rig" Barossa Valley 1999

2011-09-12T19:48:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - very attractive, refined nose - fig, black raspberry, mole, earth/corn, oak spice and grilled meat.

Intense, but not at all heavy. Flavors of red fruit, game/sausage/bacon, leather and spice are driven by relatively strong acidity. Tannin is moderate and fine. Subtle, persistent length. Classy, delineated action. Exactly what many of us think Barossa can't do..
RFG.

$90 on release. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier.

Bastide Blanche "Fontaneou" Bandol 2007

2011-09-12T19:44:00.000-07:00

Very deep red.

Opened yesterday - expressive nose - clay/earth, licorice, blackberry and fragrant wood spices.

Intense, but not as dense as some other vintages. Not necessarily a bad thing. Really nice mid-palate flesh and flavor expression. Tasting extremely well already, but it's hard to believe this won't benefit from 5-8 more years in the bottle..

$27. 100% Mourvedre, I think.

Rocca delle Macie, Riserva, Chianti Classico 2006

2011-09-07T19:35:00.000-07:00

Red.

Opened yesterday - bright, lifted aromas of red cherry, earth, shoe polish and licorice. Very attractive.

Intense middleweight with enough textural "give" to keep it from being austere. Racy finishing acidity. Nimble and expressive.
Beautiful stuff and a great antidote for "thick" wines.. Variety = spice of life.

$25.

Macchiole "Paleo" Bolgheri 2001

2011-09-07T19:28:00.000-07:00

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - great nose - embers/camp fire/smoky oak/earth/cinnamon/licorice/fig/black cherry.

Intense entry. Packed middle-weight, but acid/tannin synergy really clamps down on flavor expression. Nowhere near maturity. Nose far better than a bottle several years ago though. Give this 5+ years in the cellar.

$50 on release. 100% Cabernet Franc.

Cass "Rockin' One" Paso Robles 2008

2011-08-24T20:19:00.000-07:00

Light yellow.

Deep bass aromas - corn tortilla, peach & spice. PFG.

Deep, loaded palate impression leavened beautifully by sneaky acidity and some mineral/phenolic (sulfide?) action that hones the mid-palate and finish. Side-teeth chew. RFG.

$35? Gift from Colin Waite.

Albino Rocca "Brich Ronchi" Barbaresco 1999

2011-08-21T20:35:00.000-07:00

Red, rust rim.

Vinturi - sexy cherry jam, woodsmoke/oak spice, roasted herb and earth aromas. Savory.

Nice breadth in the mouth, particularly for Nebbiolo. Manages to have a plush mid-palate as well as serious acid/tannin spine. Flavors express nicely. Finishing note of iron. Huge structure becomes apparent with extended air time. Beautiful wine in need of several more years of bottle-age, though it drinks reasonably well now...

$50 on release.

Andrew Will, Ciel du Cheval Vyd., Red Mountain 2007

2011-08-16T19:22:00.000-07:00

Red/purple.

Opened yesterday. Deep oozer of a nose - Andes mint, fresh earth and a massive pool of black cherry compote. Better than yesterday - seemed a bit flat then.

Round and packed, seamless, completely mouth-filling, plush. Flavors echoing nose express quite well. Not wildly complex yet, but I don't think many will quibble. Structure is in the background, but acidity and fine tannin quietly coat the teeth in refined chew. This really didn't do much for me yesterday, but showing very well now. Give it some air..

$55. 45% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Archery Summit "Arcus Estate" Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2006

2011-08-16T19:14:00.000-07:00

Red.

Opened yesterday. Subtle, lusty nose of underbrush, fresh herbs, red cherry coulis and sexy oak spices.

Round, sumptuous entry with significant acidity immediately keeping one foot on the floor. Flavor (red cherry, spice, underbrush) and structure running on two tracks. Acid/tannin synergy really clamps down on the side teeth, but flavors sail on. RFG. This would be an interesting ringer in a Burgundy tasting. Long, subtle mineral/chew finish.

$60? Gift from the Padres

Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

2011-08-13T20:09:00.000-07:00

Red.

Vinturi - low-key nose - attractive woodsy/earth/spice action with pepper and red cherry/raspberry underneath. Harmonious.

Round with considerable textural sweetness, particularly for Beaucastel. Manages to be packed with flavor and quite structured
without being ponderous or rustic. Relatively light touch, which I now think of as typical for these guys. Reminds me a bit of the Grange des Peres in this sense. Tannin builds as the wine sits, finishing with Mourvedre's iron notes. Nowhere near maturity, but drinking well already. Beautiful stuff.

$55? Not sure what the blend is in this vintage, but Beaucastel typically uses more Mourvedre than most CdP producers.

Vega Sicilia "Unico" Ribera del Duero 1986

2011-08-12T19:10:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Fragrant, sexy, spicebox, grilled meat, citrus, fruitcake nose.

Intensely flavored, lively middle-weight. Acid-driven with mild tannin. No sign that it is near its peak. It is quite difficult to articulate how great some of these wines are. They just are.

$Lots ? Courtesy of Mike Irwin on his 71st birthday. Like an incredible old Bordeaux on the nose - crazy, integrated, effortless complexity.

Termanthia, Toro 2003

2011-08-12T19:05:00.000-07:00

Saturated purple.

Nose of spice box, brooding black fruit (dried fig, black raspberry), wax and licorice.

Extremely dense, but not heavy. Refined tannin builds with air time. Not yet complex in the mouth, but loaded to the hilt and in need of many years in a good cellar. The juxtaposition of incredible concentration and refinement is remarkable..

$150. 100% ungrafted, old vine Tempranillo.

Lopez-Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Reserva, Rioja 1993

2011-08-12T16:14:00.000-07:00

Light red.

Herbs and fragrant wood spices on the nose as well as some red fruit. Light, but attractive.

Lively, light palate impression. Citrus and herb flavors. Acid-driven. Very nice stuff.

$?

Climens, Barsac 1988

2011-08-12T16:06:00.000-07:00

Yellow/light gold.

Roasted peach/nectarine, orange marmalade, burnt sugar nose. Great.

Deep, balanced, fresh. Strong acidity cuts through considerable sweetness beautifully. Long, roasted botrytis finish suffuses the palate. FK.

$? Courtesy of Tony Vickers.

Grange des Peres, Vin de Pays de l'Herault 2006

2011-08-09T19:33:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - great, subtle nose of woodsmoke, herbs, grilled red fruit, fresh earth. Sumptuous.

Round with some textural sweetness immediately buffered by strongish acidity and moderate tannin. Really expressive in the mouth too. Tanzer's "inner-mouth" action. Beautifully refined, no fat. Taut. RFG. Long, subtle finish.

$60? Gift from Mr. Milic @ FnB in Scottsdale. The proprietor here did stints with Francois Coche-Dury and Chave if I'm not mistaken. Pretty good mentors... Not sure of the blend, but I think it is Syrah and maybe some Cabernet? Whatever. It rocks.

Tensley, Syrah, Tierra Alta Vyd., Santa Barbara County 2006

2011-08-07T18:32:00.000-07:00

Red.

Vinturi - muted nose - licorice, wood spices, fig, steak sauce.

Round and mouth-filling with an unexpected sweetness. Definitely seems to have residual sugar and it doesn't fit in well with strong underlying acidity. Unfortunate, as I've enjoyed other Tensley bottlings quite a bit. Probably just a tough vintage/weird lot problem..

$22 from Time Market in Tucson.

Mas Carlot "Les Enfants Terribles" Costieres de Nimes 2005

2011-08-07T18:19:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - attractive nose of wood spices, licorice, iron, earth and black fruit.

Round, initially, but still shows an acid (VA?)/Brett edge that gives this a dis-jointed feel and really clamps down in the finish. Flavors veer toward iron/blood. Needs considerable air, say decanting 24 hours in advance.. This bottling was impossible to enjoy when released due to a Brett bloom in the bottle (CO2 and stink). Still edgy, but far better now.

$12. Mourvedre and Syrah

Tardieu-Laurent, St. Joseph "Vieilles Vignes" 2003

2011-08-04T19:52:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Opened yesterday. Utterly sexy/savory nose of wood smoke/spices, smoked meat, molasses, grilled herbs and black fruit.

Round and mouth-filling with simultaneous acid-driven structure framing and focusing palate impression. Really loaded and expressive at the same time. And structured to the hilt - acid/tannin constriction really shuts down the mouth in the finish - though smoked meat, herb flavors manage to ride through. RFG, but I'd be careful about cellaring this more than another 3-5 years. Tardieu-Laurent did a very good job in the very hot 2003 vintage. Lots of very highly rated 2003 wines from the northern Rhone seem dead/flat to me, albeit wildly concentrated.

$35. 100% Syrah

Peyre Rose "Clos Des Cistes" Coteaux du Languedoc 2003

2011-08-04T19:37:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Opened yesterday. Low-toned nose of wood spices, Bordeaux-ish embers, baked black raspberry, dried herbs and A-1 steak sauce. Definitely from a warm vintage.

Round and plush, particularly for this producer. Deep and packed, but not really showing much complexity. Grainy tannin cuts into the finish. But this may well be better 3-4 days from now..

$40? Gift from Mr. Bo Stock. Peyre Rose raises its Syrah in stainless steel, though this seems to show barrel influence. This wine has some Grenache in it, I think. The other bottling "Leone" includes some Mourvedre.

Hirtzberger "Honivogl" Gruner Veltliner, Wachau (Austria) 2004

2011-08-02T20:02:00.000-07:00

Yellow/gold.

Deep, rich, bass nose of lentil, mint, citrus marmalade with a spicy/peppery undertone.

Really fills the mouth, and then expands (if that is possible) with flavors that mirror the nose. The spicy/peppery quality adds real lift and vibrancy. Deep lentil, citrus and spice action flows into a ridiculously long finish. This stuff just keeps kicking out flavor.. Great idiosyncratic white wine, as usual. I love this stuff.

$45. Do yourself a favor - get a bottle or two of GV. There are inexpensive versions ($12-20) that are incredibly refreshing.

Caleo "Calea" Fiano, Sicilia 2010

2011-07-26T19:47:00.000-07:00

Pale yellow.

Aromas of white peach, pear, nut skin and bit of citrus. Fresh, bright.

Round with nice flesh. Nice acidity lifts incrementally. Really nice balance of fruit and acid. Great Summer action.

$18. A bottling made by/for the importer (Polaner. Very interesting guy/company). Fiano is an ancient variety from the Campania region of Italy. Synthetic cork. Drink up.

Capafons-Osso "Mas de Masos" Priorat 2000

2011-07-24T18:59:00.000-07:00

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - great nose of sexy oak spices, crushed blackberry, earth and shoe polish.

Intense, linear feel in the mouth, with a slight textural sweetness. Blackberry and earth flavors ride through a rather pent-up mid-palate. Grainy, acid/tannin constriction shuts down the front teeth in the finish. This needs several more years in the cellar, but is now far more giving than my last bottle a few years ago. I believe this is a Carignan dominant blend (and it shows).

$35 on release

Chateau Puech-Haut "Prestige" Coteaux du Languedoc 2009

2011-03-29T21:41:00.000-07:00

Purple/red.

Vinturi - fragrant, deep nose - spicy fig, balsam, earth/loam, black cherry, wilted greens, peppermint and even some of Schildknecht's "machine oil". Sumptuous, savory.

Round, dense and suave in the mouth with grainy acid/tannin synergy slowly constricting the front teeth. Nice flavor expression throughout. Extremely well-crafted, nuanced wine. I wouldn't be at all surprised if this cellared well for 8-10 years or more.

$17. Crazy. Not sure of the blend, but I'd guess there's quite a bit of Syrah.

Lamoreaux Landing, Cabernet Franc, New York 2005

2011-01-29T15:30:00.000-08:00

Red with some evolution.

Vinturi - Fragrant tar, red cherry, earth and wood spice nose. Has me thinking RFG Nebbiolo. But some creamy, sexy, vanilla notes creep in.

Lean, with red fruit and spice flavors. Nice follow through into the finish. Best on the nose. I love better Cabernet Francs from the Finger Lakes (like this one) - lean, crisp and completely different from almost everything produced on the West Coast.

$? Gift from John and Jenny Dolak.

Laffont "Hecate" Madiran 2006

2011-01-28T17:19:00.000-08:00

Opaque purple.

Vinturi - very deep nose of blackberry sauce, damp earth, oak spice and licorice. More lifted than it sounds.

Shows intense, linear flavors of blackest of black fruit, gauze, bacon and tar. Acid-driven tannin really coats all the teeth in the finish. Not brutal, however. Loaded & killer, but needs many years to express in the mouth - say 10-15.

$30. 100% Tannat, I think.

Man O' War "Ironclad" Waiheke Island (NZ) 2008

2011-01-22T16:23:00.000-08:00

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - expressive, interesting nose - licorice, camphor/eucalyptus, black fruit, white pepper. I'd guess this to be cool-climate Syrah.. Suave, nutty oak too.

Intensely flavored in the mouth with white pepper front and center and black fruit in the background. Menthol sneaks in late. Acid-driven tannin constricts front and side teeth. No fat. Love to see this in 4-6 years. Very interesting stuff. Especially at this price.

This held up very well in the bottle over a three day period.

$25 52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 105.% Malbec, 9.1% Petit Verdot, 1.4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% listed alcohol. Tin-lined screwcap.

Thibault Liger-Belair "Les Rouchaux" Moulin a Vent 2009

2011-01-22T16:16:00.000-08:00

Vibrant red/purple.

Vinturi - great, lifted, fresh nose of crushed blackberry/raspberry, fresh earth and a hint of pepper. Killer.

Vibrant in the mouth as well, with excellent depth. Acid-driven structure adds Tanzer's "thrust" to peppery black fruit flavors. Great flavor intensity without weight. Mineral chew coats front teeth. FK. Knockout Beaujolais.

$30

Janasse, Chateauneuf du Pape 2007

2011-01-17T19:45:00.000-08:00

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday. Deep nose of clay/earth, fig/blackberry/black raspberry compote and licorice. Manages just enough lift thanks to a slight mint nuance.

Round and dense in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol, but nothing crazy. Plush mid-palate is loaded with black raspberry coulis and earth flavors. Interesting - fruit and structure all loaded to the front of the mouth. Extremely ripe and packed, but is just shy of too much. PFG.

$35

Berthoumieu "Vitis MCM" Madiran 2007

2011-01-16T20:24:00.000-08:00

Purple/red.

Opened yesterday. Nose of intense, lifted, black raspberry confection (contradiction?), fresh earth and oak spice/resin. An attractive medicinal quality too.

Nice volume in the mouth with significant acid/tannin synergy. No fat here, but not at all brutal either. Definitely center-packed with blackest of black fruit flavors. Needs several more years in the bottle to express itself fully.. Very impressive stuff.

$35 100% Tannat from a vineyard planted in 1900. 80% new oak.

Terlato & Chapoutier, Shiraz-Viognier, Victoria 2008

2011-01-05T16:37:00.000-08:00

Purple/red.

Vinturi - fragrant smoke/tar, blackberry, earth and dried mango nose.

Shows a bit of textural sweetness and a grainy/saline impression. No fat here, but impressive depth of center-packed black fruit and spice. Deceptive length. Classy, flavorful action. Cheap too.

$16

Mogador, Priorat 2001

2011-01-05T16:28:00.000-08:00

Deep red/purple.

Opened yesterday - creosote/cocoa powder/black cherry jam/herb nose.

Round with nice textural sweetness which is immediately challenged by acid/tannin synergy. Red and black cherry and creosote flavors run throughout. Densely packed middle-weight. Needs several more years to unwind fully.

$50

Lesec "Chasse-Temps" Chateauneuf du Pape 2004

2010-12-29T19:13:00.000-08:00

Red.

Opened yesterday - expressive nose shows effects of stem inclusion - pungent garrigue, spice box, tomato, tree bark/earth and red cherry.

Lively entry shows spicy garrigue and a load of acidity that ratchets down the mouth. Pure and precise with no sense of textural sweetness or fat. Lesec must be a fan of Burgundy. Very persistent, spicy and fresh. Little obvious fruit character, which probably has as much to do with the vintage as anything else. Fun stuff.

$25.

Font-Sane "Tradition" Gigondas 2007

2010-12-29T19:01:00.000-08:00

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - very deep nose of black fruit, black licorice and earth. Some garrigue with air time, but this comes across as thick and a bit leaden.

Broad and deep in the mouth as well, with spicy black fruit and a citrus lift in the finish. Significant acid/tannin synergy constricts the front teeth. Very impressive, but lacks some freshness. Maybe best to drink this early?

Day 3 - Still very deep and rich, but shows more freshness and garrigue lift. Quite welcome. Loaded and highly recommended.

$18? Courtesy of Chris and Sarah Hamilton.

Bouissiere, Gigondas, 2007

2010-12-20T15:38:00.000-08:00

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - deep, spicy/peppery, saucy, savory meat and earth nose is killer. It even manages to convey an impression of textural sweetness/"plushness".

Great depth in the mouth with a packed, creamy mid-palate I've never seen from the brothers Faravel before. Spicy/earthy/peppery cherry compote flavors with an acid/tannin edge that surfaces slowly. This is RFG. It will be hard to cellar this (too good now), but it should age quite well. The '99 version is just hitting stride.

$35

Daniel Bouland "Delys" Morgon (Beaujolais) 2009

2010-12-17T15:47:00.000-08:00

Bright red/purple.

No vinturi - killer, lifted nose - spicy/peppery crushed raspberry/blackberry and earth with a floral element. Nice depth.

Quite powerfully flavored middleweight. Intense peppery/spicy black fruit flavors slowly taper off in the face of strongish acidity. Extremely impressive and without question the best Beaujolais I've ever tasted.

$25. From a vineyard planted in 1926

Kongsgaard, Syrah, Napa Valley 2002

2010-12-15T20:10:00.000-08:00

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - great, edible, nose - menthol/melted licorice/meat/fig paste/menthol. Completely melded. Killer.

Great depth/breadth in the mouth. Acid/tannin synergy slowly shows itself, but never shuts down the flavor flow. Mid-palate flesh is crazy, and shows, like the other cool-climate Syrahs tasted recently, a citric component that gives lift and life. But this is all about fleshy, corpulent pleasure taken to another level.

$100.

Durand "Lautaret" St Joseph 2003

2010-12-15T20:04:00.000-08:00

Saturated red/purple.

Vinturi - extremely deep nose of black licorice, pepper, seared meat, grilled oak spice and earth/sulfide. With air, this gains lift from a subtle citrus nuance.

Deep, thick and loaded in the mouth. Earth and black fruit flavors again gain freshness from a citrus undertone. Reminds me of the recently tasted Samsara, only more dense and compact. Huge tannic freight train in the finish. But nothing to worry about, as this is loaded to the hilt.

$35

Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2001

2010-12-15T19:57:00.001-08:00

Evolved red, brick rim.

Vinturi - wildly expressive, complex nose - grilled & wilted herbs/tomato jam/kirsch/pepper.

Round and mouth-filling with grainy density/concentration and considerable tannic clout. Shows great flavor complexity in the mouth as well - garrigue/tomato/cherry/grilled meat/earth. Thank God some folks still include stems. Crazy finish keeps kicking out the flavor jams..

$60 FK.

Clos du Caillou, Reserve, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999

2010-12-15T19:49:00.000-08:00

Red.

Vinturi - wonderful, expressive nose - woodsmoke, cherry jam (or coulis?), truffle/earth/tree bark and sexy oak spice.

Restrained sweetness in the mouth with significant acid/tannin synergy. Has a full mid-palate of fleshy red cherry coulis and a purity/fineness that is typical of the wines from the late/great JD Vacheron. Not sure that this will ever fully express in the mouth.

$65

Chateau Peyros "Vieilles Vignes" Madiran 2003

2010-12-12T19:55:00.000-08:00

Saturated purple/red.

Nose of earth/iodine, black fruit and horse shit. Far better than it sounds.

Expressive in the mouth, though far less dense than Bouscasse' (and maybe better for it?). Still wildly intense and lifted, with a load of tannin that will make many shit their pants. But its real - and needs real food - like Bouscasse'. Stuff that's loaded with fat, carbs and pleasure. Pork and lamb fat would be a very good place to start..

$30? Cheap for something that changes perspective. 60% Tannat, 40% Cabernet Franc.

Chateau Bouscasse' "Vieilles Vignes" Madiran 2003

2010-12-12T19:44:00.000-08:00

Deep red.

Relatively open-knit nose. Bordeaux-ish. Herbs, toast and black currant.

Expressive in the mouth too (for Tannat). Round and simultaneously quite tight and tannic. Needs fatty meat and butter dishes in the worst way. Certainly not everyone's cup of tea, but this shows unusual nuance and typical crazy structure.

$25? Owned by Alain Brumont of Chateau Montus. A movie script of a life in wine if there ever was a good one. 100% Tannat.

Kongsgaard, Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2004

2010-12-11T19:23:00.000-08:00

Light yellow.

Butterscotch/buttered pineapple/truffle/popcorn nose. Deep.

Shows an alluring, initial, textural sweetness and lightness of touch. Great concentration and corresponding cut/chew. Loaded, with ridiculously long finishing flavors of pineapple, sulfide/truffle and mineral action that works the salivary glands. All mineral late, coating front teeth in crushed rock.. FK.

Samsara, Syrah, Melville Vyd., Santa Rita Hills 2007

2010-12-05T19:04:00.000-08:00

Opaque Purple.

Opened yesterday - nose is simultaneously deep and wildly perfumed - strawberry/fig coulis, citrus blossom, earth, licorice, camphor. Killer.

Great breadth in the mouth, but no textural sweetness. Citrus character amplified in the mouth, becoming increasingly "zesty" in both flavor and feel as you move into the mid-palate and finish. Shows multiple layers, with plenty of depth to balance strong acidity. Really distinctive, interesting CA Syrah that should get even better with extended bottle aging. RFG.

$45? Gift.

Bielsa, Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Campo de Borja 2009

2010-11-21T18:01:00.000-08:00

Saturated purple.

Opened yesterday. Nose of the freshest boysenberry/raspberry coulis imaginable with citrus blossom lift and light earth. Complex, deep and ridiculously attractive. This was crazy yesterday too.

Round, packed and deep with a textural sweetness that is again, crazy (This is $10). Loaded start to finish, no hiccup anywhere. I can see this benefiting from 2-3 years in the bottle and drinking well far longer than a $10 bottle has any right to. This has to be the greatest wine bargain I've ever seen. TFK.

$10! The '08 was killer too.

FX Pichler, Gruner Veltliner, Kellerberg, Smaragd 2002

2010-08-11T20:22:00.000-07:00

Yellow.

Extremely deep earth/lentil, grapefruit marmalade and pepper nose. There's a marrow/meaty richness too, strange as that sounds.

Huge bass notes of marmalade and earth are leavened by treble note of pepper and moderate acid/tannin/mineral chew. Just ridiculous. Somehow refined in the finish, which doesn't seem to quit, and mirrors everything in the nose. Worth every cent and then some.

$75

Tortochot, Mazy-Chambertin 2006

2010-08-07T16:59:00.000-07:00

Red.

Opened yesterday. Very pretty nose of strawberry, red cherry, savory earth and suave oak. Floral notes too.

Deceptively light in the mouth, with nice coverage and a light tannic edge. Herbs, earth and red cherry flavors dominate. Subtle length. Very finely rendered. One of those wines you love more every time you go back to it.

$80.

Achaval-Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2006

2010-08-07T16:52:00.000-07:00

Saturated purple.

Opened yesterday. Blackberry, clay/earth, licorice, fig nose. Deep.

Full, round entry. Slightly grainy and quite concentrated. Really packed, in fact. Earth and black fruit flavors. Chewy finish with very nice length. RGS. Can only improve with 5-6 more years in the bottle.

$30. 34% Malbec, 32% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc.

Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas" Paso Robles 2007

2010-08-07T16:47:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - lifted crushed raspberry, cherry, earth and spearmint nose.

Round and mouthfilling with restrained textural sweetness thanks to relatively strong acidity. Cherry jam and spice finish restricted a bit by acid/tannin synergy. Wildly tasty, though, and in need of a few years in the cellar.

$25. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Counoise. 14.8% alcohol. Tin-lined screwcap.

DeLille "Harrison Hill" Yakima Valley 1994

2010-08-02T20:27:00.000-07:00

Red with some rim evolution.

No Vinturi. Beautiful nose - grilled nuts, hot bricks, spicebox, red cherry, herbs and a bit of pepper as it airs. Effortless complexity.

Round, mouthfilling, mature middle-weight. Integrated, evolved spice, herb, earth and cherry flavors are nicely framed by moderate acid/tannin synergy. Wonderful stuff, with ineffable action that can only come with serious cellar time. A very good example of why Cabernet has the reputation it has.

Day 2 - still killer and even more integrated. Really beautiful wine.

$? Gift from David Winkler. 13.3% alcohol.

Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd., Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2001

2010-07-31T20:02:00.000-07:00

Light yellow.

Nose of Meyer lemon flesh and zest, truffle/sulfide, caramel, fresh herbs and a hint of oak toast and grilled meat. Fine, discreet. Creme caramel as it warms/airs.

Huge depth in the mouth, absolutely packed. Even flow throughout with no let up - lemon, caramel flavors are cut by strong mineral/sulfide/acid edge. Takes over the mouth but is not heavy; a confection that isn't sweet. Lemon/caramel "chew" lasts for minutes. This really is off the charts. Incredible.

$125

Clonakilla, Shiraz/Viognier, Canberra 2005

2010-07-31T19:56:00.000-07:00

Purple/red.

Opened yesterday. Suave, integrated nose - subtle eucalyptus, pepper, Andes mint, raspberry.

White pepper front and center in the mouth with a corresponding citrus zest component. Not dense or heavy, but intense and long. Fairly strong acidity drives tannin in moderately chewy citrus/pepper finish. Clean, pure.

$50

Muga "Seleccion Especial" Rioja 2001

2010-07-31T19:51:00.000-07:00

Saturated, deep red.

Opened yesterday. Deep smoke, grilled meat, citrus, ripe tomato nose with a suggestion of BBQ sauce.

Linear, with intense citrus and earth flavors. Strong acid/tannin synergy shuts down the finish. Much less expressive than my last bottle several months ago.

$20

Domaine des Remizieres "Cuvee Emilie" Hermitage 2001

2010-07-19T20:39:00.000-07:00

Deep, slightly evolved, red.

Vinturi - licorice, mint, raspberry coulis, date, earth nose.

Round, mouth-filling. Texturally quite different from the Cote Roties. Reasonably fine-grained tannin more evenly matched with acidity. Resulting chew hits front teeth but does not shut the mouth down. Another "modern" approach to N. Rhone Syrah that works on a textural level, but leaves a bit to be desired in the complexity department. Will it develop additional complexity with more time in bottle? Maybe. Not at all convinced. Today the Jamet rules.

$60

Ogier, Cote Rotie 2001

2010-07-19T20:23:00.000-07:00

Slightly less saturated, and evolved, than the Jamet.

Vinturi - interesting - less open, more discreet - iron/game, suave oak spice. An hour later - wildly expressive, lifted, adding black fruit compote and a medicinal nuance.

Round and suave in the mouth, fuller than the Jamet with better structural integration at this point. Intelligent use of new oak (Jamet Sr. apparently used to work in Guigal's cellar), but also less interesting - more volume but less to say. Still, beautiful wine. Even apparent Brett character is well-integrated. Acid-driven tannic chew slowly mounts.

$60

Jamet, Cote Rotie 2001

2010-07-19T20:07:00.000-07:00

Saturated, slightly evolved, red/purple.

Vinturi - great nose - breakfast sausage, licorice, wilted greens, woodsmoke/smoked ham. Hints of black raspberry and tomato. Killer.

Middle-weight impression. Acid-driven tannic structure, dense and linear simultaneously. Structural tension hits the salivary glands where it counts. Deep but light, with smoked meat "perfume" lighting up the mouth mouth start to finish. Acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish a bit. Will benefit from several more years in the cellar (6-8?). RFG.

$50

Prager, Riesling, Smaragd, Achleiten 2004

2010-07-19T19:50:00.000-07:00

Full yellow.

Opened two days ago. Nose of spicy grapefruit/lemon marmalade and wax. Deep.

Extremely concentrated in the mouth. Full-bodied. Mineral/tannic chew counters richness immediately. Huge for Riesling. Finish of mineral/citrus "chew" doesn't seem to end. Wild, killer, Riesling that will win converts with red wine only types.

$40. From one of Austria's greatest vineyards (Achleiten).

Domaine La Florane "Terre Pourpre" Cotes du Rhone Villages Visan 2007

2010-07-14T20:40:00.000-07:00

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - nose is discreet but loaded with fresh, spicy, black fruit, earth and licorice.

Intense, packed. Even has the tomato/spicy ketchup action that old school CdP often shows, but has pure, fresh black fruit as well. Great acid/tannin synergy keeps this lively - front teeth coated in "mineral" chew. Great mid-palate material to buffer structure. This is stupid. Will benefit from many years in the bottle. FK and a ridiculous value.

$20. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre.

Livio Felluga, Pinot Grigio, Collio 2008

2010-07-07T19:46:00.000-07:00

Straw/light yellow.

Fine, discreet nose - pepper/herb, nut skin, smoke, ripe lemon/apple/pear. Vibrant.

Pepper/herb character immediately takes center stage, with softer fruit flavors hitting in the mid-palate. Still, pepper runs the length of the court. Beautiful acid/light mineral edge keeps this mouthwatering throughout. Way tasty and complex to boot. Not what most folks think of when they hear Pinot Grigio (or Pinot Gris, for that matter). Individual.

$20. Great, refreshing deal. Tin-lined screwcap.

Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001

2010-07-06T19:53:00.000-07:00

Deep, evolved red. Rust rim.

Vinturi - wild, killer, old school nose - resinous herbs, wood smoke, cherry liqueur, ripest tomato, menthol, Asian spices, grilled meat.

Round, expansive and edgeless in the mouth. Loaded but not heavy at all. Most of the aromatic notes repeat in the mouth. Nice acid/tannin synergy slowly firms things up. Light chew on the front teeth. God this is FK. Long wood smoke/herb finish.

$50. Never the flashiest CdP in its youth, but great with cellar time. This thing should drink well for a very long time.

Thackrey "Sirius" Eaglepoint Ranch, Mendocino County 2007

2010-06-29T20:56:00.000-07:00

Opaque purple.

Vinturi - huge pool of blackberry fruit. Bright, lifted, but one thing. Decent bit of banana still showing.

Firm, intense, lifted - just like claims of your special workout. But this works on the psyche too, which saves $$$. This rocks, but a long cellaring is in order.

$50

Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2003

2010-06-29T20:29:00.000-07:00

Saturated red.

Vinturi - iron, cherry liqueur, garrigue. Not wildly expressive, but deep.

Definitely shut down since my last bottle - one of the best I've ever had. Something to get all religious over...Needs air and a sympathetic audience (at this point).

$65

Domaine de Vallouit "Les Greffieres" Hermitage 1999

2010-06-29T20:14:00.000-07:00

Saturated red,

Vinturi - integrated, sumptuous nose of woodsmoke, wilted greens, smoked sausage. Deep, classic N. Rhone Syrah.

Deep and relatively "easy" in the mouth, broad and giving. Which is, for me, unusual. Great mid-palate flesh. Killer stuff. Domaine now owned by Guigal. Good thing? Probably. But diversity is a certain loser.

$70

Tablas Creek, Mourvedre, Paso Robles 2007

2010-06-24T20:32:00.000-07:00

Saturated red.

Vinturi - black cherry, blackberry, forest/tree bark/hazelnut, iron/medicinal, licorice nose combines the best of the new and old world.

Round and plush, particularly for Mourvedre, with excellent mid-palate flesh. Acid/tannin synergy eventually whittles everything into shape, but does not shut down the mouth. Loads of black fruit and clean earth flavors. Killer. Even better with 3-6 years of cellaring, conservatively speaking.

$30. 2007 was apparently a great vintage all over CA. No argument here.

Koehler, Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley 2005

2010-06-21T20:09:00.000-07:00

Opaque purple.

Vinturi - deep black fruit (date/fig), Asian spices, fresh herb and earth nose. Loaded and deep.

Round and intense simultaneously. Great mid-palate flesh immediately buffered by strong acid-driven tannin that hit the front teeth. Great tension. Even a mineral-like character. All the while a core of black fruit and spice flavors flow through. RFG, particularly at this stupid price.

$25.

Beaux Freres "Upper Terrace" Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge (Oregon) 2007

2010-06-16T20:08:00.000-07:00

Slightly evolved, deep red.

Attractive, integrated nose of forest floor/herbs, red cherry, suave oak spice.

Round, sexy, mouth-filling stuff. Just enough of an acid/light tannin edge to frame it. Very Pinot, and not something that stands out as New World. Perfumed red fruit and herbs (slight jalapeno) in the mouth. RGS. Could drink a ton of this. Structure strengthens with air (some residual CO2 also). Great ringer in a Burgundy tasting.

$75? Gift from the Padres.

Achaval Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2007

2010-06-13T20:02:00.000-07:00

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - fresh black raspberry, deep earth, hazelnut, oak spice, shoe polish nose.

Reasonably round, with nice textural sweetness. Again, this is well-buffered by strongish acid/tannin synergy. Focused, gutsy stuff that shows perfumed black fruit in the mouth. Also will benefit from several more years in the cellar and will probably drink very well for another 10 years or more. Lots of material here.

$30. 38% Malbec, 24% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc.

Achaval Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2005

2010-06-13T19:45:00.000-07:00

Opaque purple.

Vinturi - extremely dense, loaded nose - undifferentiated black fruit, clay/earth, oak spice, dark chocolate.

Middle-weight feel, with fairly strong acid/tannin synergy reining everything in from the get go. Not yet expressive in the mouth, but shows nice mid-palate flesh and strong blackberry fruit. Needs time.

$27. 37% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc.

Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2001

2010-06-12T19:50:00.000-07:00

Saturated purple.

Charcoal/smoke/oak spice/black raspberry/licorice/earth nose is compact and dense.

Extremely deep, loaded, fleshy, feel. Huge tannic clout kicks in on the finish, where this picks up a tidal/saline character (needs air in the worst way/built for a very long evolution in the bottle). This is totally FK and will get better for decades in a good cellar. This is another example of why Bordeaux is still relevant. A bottle of '00 La Louviere Graves at the Mueller's was another beautiful example.

$50.

Lincourt, Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley 2007

2010-06-12T19:45:00.000-07:00

Red/purple.

Citrus zest, white pepper, black raspberry sauce and earth nose. Refined. Aromatic notes reverse with air.

Wonderful textural fullness/sweetness. Acid-driven structure adds firmness but does not kill flavor flow. Nice length. Extremely attractive CA Syrah.

Gift - $30?

Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd., St. Helena 2000

2010-06-10T20:47:00.000-07:00

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - great, integrated, nose runs the whole court - subdued mint, grilled meat, blackberry, oak smoke, earth, hazelnut.

Intense, middle-weight feel. Center-packed, but this has nice textural "give". Wilted mint and earth flavors dominate. Acid-driven tannin builds in the finish. Needs several more years in the bottle. Far better tomorrow and the day after..

$75. Syrah/Petite Sirah - who knows. Old vineyard. 100% new Sirugue Burgundy barrels barely show.

Saxum "Rocket Block" Paso Robles 2003

2010-06-10T20:41:00.000-07:00

Saturated red/purple.

Vinturi - deep, saucy, nose with nice oak spice lift - black raspberry/earth/shoe polish.

Dense with a textural sweetness that is well-buffered by moderate acid/tannin synergy. Undertone of fresh peppermint. Alcohol (16.6%) barely noticed. Loaded, but is also refined, though not particularly complex. Whatever, I could sit and drink a bunch of this. RFG.

$75. 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah.

Chave, Hermitage 1997

2010-06-03T20:26:00.000-07:00

Red.

Vinturi - fragrant, refined nose - woodsmoke, wilted herb, breakfast sausage, raspberry and menthol. Subtle and RFG.

Round, seamless, middle-weight. Sneaky acidity lifts and brightens. Herbs, sausage and raspberry flavors are also subtle and have deceptive length. '97 was hardly a great vintage, but this is beautiful stuff.

$50. 13% listed alcohol.

Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 1999

2010-06-01T19:24:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - great, integrated, sumptuous nose of myriad oak spices, raspberry coulis, toasted nut, earth and fresh herbs.

Round and dense, with earth, raspberry and fragrant wood (balsam, redwood) and herb flavors. Iron, too, later. Intense, relatively lean and focused in the finish. Many years still to go here. This rocks.

$28. I think this is roughly 70% Tempranillo and the balance Cabernet and Merlot. Made by Peter Sisseck.

Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain 1996

2010-05-27T19:24:00.000-07:00

Opaque red.

Vinturi - great, youthful nose. Could be a current release. Red currant, subtle oak char/spice/hazelnut, red licorice and fresh herb. Great lift and depth.

Mouth-filling, expressive and deeply flavored. This is loaded, particularly for a wine with a listed alcohol of 12.5%. Ridiculously lively (perky, so to speak?) for a 14 year old, with no lack of intensity. This still has serious structure to boot. Hopefully I've got another bottle somewhere. I wouldn't be surprised if this is even better with 10 more years in a good cellar. FK.

$40 on release.

Clos Marie "L'Olivette" Pic Saint Loup 2005

2010-05-27T19:07:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - wild nose - wilted herbs, iron, liver, hazelnut sauce, savory meat/bacon, maple syrup and deep earth notes. RFG.

Round and plush entry. Seamless flow through the mid-palate, then strong acidity and moderate tannin really clamp down in the finish. Obviously needs time in the cellar. This is the "basic" bottling from Clos Marie and is probably raised in concrete.

$25. Like all other Clos Marie bottles I've had, this shows distinct N. Rhone Syrah characteristics. But I think it is almost entirely Grenache and Carignan.

Christian Salmon "Vieilles Vignes" Sancerre 2008

2010-05-27T18:58:00.000-07:00

Light yellow.

Low key nose of almond paste, pineapple, lemon. Better, deeper, as it warms.

Shows some initial textural sweetness that is cut nicely by a vibrant acid/mineral edge. The mineral/acid synergy builds, eventually coating the front teeth in "chew". Fresh herb character really shows in the finish (only hinted at in the nose). Nothing flashy here, but very satisfying stuff. Great at the table.

Gift - $25?

Domaine du Caillou "Quartz" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000

2010-05-21T18:48:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - toasted hazelnut/black cherry sauce, earth, herbs, pepper, iron nose. Deep and very attractive.

Really loaded and plush in the mouth - great mid-palate flesh. Impression of black fruit jelly of the tastiest kind. Significant acid/tannin/mineral synergy hits the front teeth and shuts down the mouth late in the finish. This will be around for many years.

$50.

Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2000

2010-05-21T18:36:00.000-07:00

Deep, dull red.

Vinturi - sumptuous nose - earth/herbs/meat drippings/hazelnut/orange/black cherry coulis/cinnamon stick. Crazy. Vibrant and deep.

Round and mouth-filling. Slightly disjointed in the mid-palate (can't tell if it's alcohol or VA), but has great density and flesh to overcome it. Still has an acid/tannin/sulfide edge that really firms things up in the finish. This still needs several years in the cellar. Not at all a "monster", as some idiots would suggest. Nice orange action really perks this up, zest "chew" hits late and builds.

$125.

Font de Michelle "Etienne Gonnet" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

2010-05-17T19:44:00.000-07:00

Evolved, dull red.

No Vinturi. Integrated nose - smoke, herbs, licorice, earth, fig.

Intense spice/earth entry. Actually a bit bound up, but far better than my last bottle. Vinturi might have helped. Seems like there's some stem inclusion here, but I could be wrong. Needs time, but this is obviously loaded with good stuff.

$40

Hirtzberger, Hochrain, Riesling, Smaragd, Wachau 2004

2010-05-16T20:14:00.000-07:00

Yellow.

Deep, concentrated nose of grapefruit marmalade, white pepper, lentil. Wild.

Absolutely loaded middle-weight in the mouth. Intense marmalade and pepper flavors with equally intense acid/tannin/mineral chew carving through. Extremely long, tactile/chewy citrus/pepper finish. This is FK. Chew your way into tomorrow morning. Pepper goes to black.

$45

Saxum "44" James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2005

2010-05-16T18:46:00.000-07:00

Purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, saucy nose shows savory meat/nut and black raspberry/Chambord notes. A bit of heat, but this grows on you.

Loaded and beyond "round" - shows significant textural sweetness as well as great density/concentration. But, again, gets thrown off track by some intrusive alcohol action in the mid-palate and finish. There's much to like here, but doesn't quite pull it off for me. But we'll see what this shows with another day or three of air. May eat my words. Significant acid/tannin "chew" coats the front teeth.

$80? 81% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 9% Grenache. 44 months in puncheons (500 liter barrels), I think. 15.9% listed alcohol.

Torres "Celeste" Ribera del Duero 2006

2010-05-16T18:35:00.000-07:00

Red/purple.

Vinturi -earth/loam, red cherry, light citrus nose. Bass and treble - very attractive.

Round, plush entry with citrus zest flavor/chew increasingly dominant. Lean, intensely citric finish constricted by acid-driven tannin. This is surprisingly good, and will benefit from a few more years in the bottle.

$17

Viniterra "Select" Carmenere, Mendoza 2006

2010-05-12T20:54:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - rich nose of herbs, chocolate, black cherry and light toast.

Interesting mouthfeel - nice breadth, but quite focused too. A medicinal/saline quality shows up. Good length. This could easily be confused with something from Oz. The finish is bound up by acid/tannin/saline synergy. Also from Lujan de Cuyo.

$16

Luigi Bosca "Reserva" Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza 2006

2010-05-12T20:50:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - nose shows some sulfide action (earth/onion) and nut/tar.

Round with a bit of textural sweetness. Interesting grapefruit/lemon zest lift/flavors are intense and finish lean. Could be mistaken for Spanish Garnacha. In the mouth, at least.

$17

Assorted Spanish Tempranillo-based wines 5/8 Tasting

2010-05-10T19:46:00.000-07:00

Blind tasting at the Boulet hosehold, 5/8.

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 1994 - wine of the tasting for me (and almost everyone else). Absolutely incredible, beautiful, integrated wine that was the lightest in weight/power in the tasting. Meat, earth, pepper, cola - whatever. Out of this world.

Mauro "Terreus" Castilla y Leon 1996 - another wine that was just stupid, especially with air/food. Deeper/more powerful than the Artadi, but just a bit less integrated. Splitting hairs. This really freaked me out as it absorbed O2. My second favorite.

Pintia, Toro 2004 - Definitely younger than the first two and less complex/evolved. But this is freaking loaded. Aromas of earth, cinnamon, nut sauce, wax, cocoa. Fortunately, we have several bottles of this. Number three for me.

Many thanks to Mike and Bonnie Irwin and Tony and Rita Vickers for supplying these three wines. And Doug at Feast for some incredible beef action and potatoes.

Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno 2004

2010-05-05T19:40:00.000-07:00

Red/purple.

Vinturi - hazelnut/herb/ash/toast/black cherry nose.

Deep and intense from the outset, with nice clarity. Linear feel, with great mid-palate density which flows through the finish. Hits an acid/tannin wall that shuts down the mouth. Unfortunately my first (and only) bottle of Montevetrano. Should have opened this 10 years from now.

$65. Italy's first cult wine from the south, if I remember correctly, from photographer Silvia Imparato. Mostly Cabernet with a bit of Aglianico. Riccardo Cotarella as consultant.

Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc (Bordeaux) 2003

2010-05-05T19:32:00.000-07:00

Purple/red.

Vinturi - cinnamon toast, perfumed black raspberry, earth and subtle herbs on the nose. Beautiful, deep, expressive.

Round and packed in the mouth, with a grainy density. Loaded through the mid-palate, with slightly dry tannin taking over in the finish. But this has a serious pulse, particularly for this vintage. RFG and certainly worth cellaring for many more years.

$45? Can't remember.

Yarra Yering, Dry Red Wine No.1, Yarra Valley 2002

2010-05-02T17:44:00.000-07:00

Red, evolved rim.

Vinturi - nose seems a bit heavy (ironically, 12.4% listed alcohol) - nut paste/sauce, herbs, tar and perfumed red fruit underneath.
More lively as it airs.

Definitely light-weight with an immediate sense of leanness thanks to strong acid/tannin synergy and no flesh. All herbs in the mouth. Is this thing in a dumb phase? Hopefully, otherwise it's the first YY bottle I haven't enjoyed.

$75. Great contrast in style.

Quilceda Creek, Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington 2002

2010-05-02T17:33:00.000-07:00

Red/purple.

Nose of super-ripe (but fresh) strawberry, black cherry, sexy oak spices, hazelnut sauce and forest floor. Extremely attractive.

Round and plush with a decent bit of textural sweetness. Great mid-palate material and flavor flow. Tannin/acid synergy bites into the finish a bit, as does a bit of alcohol. Herbs and dark chocolate late. Built for many more years in the cellar.

$90. Opened yesterday - thus no Vinturi today. 14.9% listed alcohol.

Luis Segundo Correas "Valle Las Acequias" Malbec "Oak", Mendoza 2005

2010-04-26T19:43:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - integrated, deep nose of (slightly candied) black raspberry/cherry, earth/hazelnut liqueur.

Nice textural sweetness that is countered by fine acid/tannin synergy. Intensely flavored, but never heavy. Flows very nicely, and has surprising length. I'm not sure what this should really sell for, but this may be the stupidest value in refined wine I've ever seen. RFG.

$12. Satisfying action even for serious winos.

Gardies "Les Milleres" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2006

2010-04-22T19:16:00.000-07:00

Purple/red.

Vinturi - aromas of shoe polish, saucy black raspberry, earth, citrus and herbs.

Round, plush entry. Fairly strong acidity and moderate tannin gradually assert themselves. Nothing remotely brutal, though, as this retains a textural sweetness throughout. Very satisfying, soulful stuff and another wine that will benefit from 2-4 more years in the bottle.

$24 from Doug at Feast. This must be mostly Grenache.

Algueira, Ribeira Sacra 2006

2010-04-22T19:05:00.000-07:00

Very deep red.

Vinturi - black cherry, earth/nut, savory meat sauce nose.

Intense entry - strawberry and earth flavors have good depth/plushness. Strong acidity really forces the salivary glands into action. Lean from the mid-palate on. Herbs on the finish. Worth cellaring for a few more years. Good winery - I think this is the third vintage I've tasted and all have been very good or better.

$25. 100% Mencia.

Anselmet, Petit Rouge, Vallee d'Aoste 2008

2010-04-21T19:00:00.000-07:00

Pale, vibrant red.

Vinturi - discreet aromas of pepper, earth/lentil and red cherry/raspberry. Subtle, very attractive cinnamon note shows late as does a floral element. PFG.

Light-bodied with pepper and spice entry. Flavors increase in intensity through the finish, where all aromatic notes repeat in the mouth. Strong acidity cuts across the mouth. This smells, tastes/feels almost like a white (yes, another GV comparison). Leather shows up late. Interesting stuff.

$25? Gift from Laura Williamson. Petit Rouge is apparently a variety native to this area in NW Italy.

Terenzuola "Montesagna" Vermentino, Colli di Luni 2008

2010-04-21T18:50:00.000-07:00

Straw/light yellow.

Aromas of ripe pear, apple, nut.

Fairly intense pepper character right off the bat, similar to Gruner Veltliner. Has fully ripened pear and citrus flesh flavors too. Nice juxtaposition - sweet/spicy - with mineral chew coating all the teeth. Fun, interesting, refreshing stuff. Very easy to guzzle.

$20 from Doug at Feast. Synthetic cork = drink now.

Domaine de Pallus "Pensees de Pallus" Chinon 2007

2010-04-18T18:49:00.000-07:00

Deep red.

Vinturi - red pepper, toasted nut, rose, red cherry and earth nose.

Round, gentle (initially) middle-weight. Lacks the depth of the 2006, but purists may well like this version better. Again, very intelligent use of oak here. Lively, with fairly strong acidity driving tannin into the finish. Simple roast chicken would be a good bet here. Drink over the next 4-6 years.

$25 from Doug at Feast. The Wine Loft in Flagstaff had the 2006 back in February. 100% Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley of France.