Deep purple/red.
Deep, fresh plum, spice/pepper and eucalyptus. Lifted and packed. Liqueur character to the fruit - wildly deep.
Sweet, creamy entry that is immediately buffered by powdery tannin (driven by good acidity that mostly flies under the radar). Tannin/acid synergy kicks in significantly on the finish, but does not kill flavor follow-through.
Interesting contrast to the d'Arenberg Magpie a couple of days ago - no question this wine has seen acidulation - but here the tannin is far more refined and works in tandem. Ironically, this may be the result of filtration. There is certainly a purity to this wine.
60% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, 15% Shiraz
$30?
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape 1999
Red, rust rim.
Blood/iron, dried herbs (oregano?), vivid cinnamon stick, and cherry jam on the nose. There's other stuff too, but I can't figure it out yet. Definitely get the sense that there are aromatic "layers" to this wine. Thrilling, actually.
Spicy herb/garrigue action in the mouth, savory and smooth. Very harmonious and concentrated, nothing excessive. Tannin hits relatively late, providing real finishing chew. Long iron and herb finish.
The best '99 CdP I've had in some time.
Day 5 - Still singing. Now showing cherry jam and a spicy ketchup note that I often get from Las Rocas Old Vine Garnacha.
$40
Blood/iron, dried herbs (oregano?), vivid cinnamon stick, and cherry jam on the nose. There's other stuff too, but I can't figure it out yet. Definitely get the sense that there are aromatic "layers" to this wine. Thrilling, actually.
Spicy herb/garrigue action in the mouth, savory and smooth. Very harmonious and concentrated, nothing excessive. Tannin hits relatively late, providing real finishing chew. Long iron and herb finish.
The best '99 CdP I've had in some time.
Day 5 - Still singing. Now showing cherry jam and a spicy ketchup note that I often get from Las Rocas Old Vine Garnacha.
$40
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Zind Humbrecht Rangen Gewurtztraminer "Clos St. Urbain" 2002
Copper/gold.
Thick, heady aromas of roasted/singed orange marmalade, floral liqueur and a suggestion of sauteed onion. No question botrytis is in play here.
Very sweet palate-impression, with considerable alcohol lift which is not abrasive (acid seems quite low). Orange marmalade and intense roasted spice flavors coat the mouth and linger ... Really exotic and full-bore.
A bruiser (16% alcohol and indice 2 - which means this actually has little residual sugar) that would be great with duck (fat).
Day 4 - Hasn't changed much. Now notice some tannin chew in the finish that helps manage the wine's "sweetness".
$70
Thick, heady aromas of roasted/singed orange marmalade, floral liqueur and a suggestion of sauteed onion. No question botrytis is in play here.
Very sweet palate-impression, with considerable alcohol lift which is not abrasive (acid seems quite low). Orange marmalade and intense roasted spice flavors coat the mouth and linger ... Really exotic and full-bore.
A bruiser (16% alcohol and indice 2 - which means this actually has little residual sugar) that would be great with duck (fat).
Day 4 - Hasn't changed much. Now notice some tannin chew in the finish that helps manage the wine's "sweetness".
$70
Monday, May 28, 2007
Castello di Argiano (Sesti) Brunello di Montalcino 1997
Red with amber rim.
Brett (game/slight horseshit) and toasted nut aromatics. Red cherry/cranberry underneath. Sounds strange, but there's also a savory meat character here.
Round and generous, but treads lightly, with acid-driven tannin that frames flavors from the mid-palate on. This reminds me very much of Burgundy, even has a mineral chew in the finish that hits the front teeth.
Not as pristine as a bottle a year ago, but still quite interesting/satisfying.
$60
Brett (game/slight horseshit) and toasted nut aromatics. Red cherry/cranberry underneath. Sounds strange, but there's also a savory meat character here.
Round and generous, but treads lightly, with acid-driven tannin that frames flavors from the mid-palate on. This reminds me very much of Burgundy, even has a mineral chew in the finish that hits the front teeth.
Not as pristine as a bottle a year ago, but still quite interesting/satisfying.
$60
La Spinetta Barbera d'Asti Superiore "Bionzo" 2003
Deep red/purple.
Aromas of toasted oak, black licorice, very deep black fruits/fruit liqueur, Amaretto and a floral note.
Quite intense and center-packed, no fat here. Licorice and spicy black fruit with great follow-through - runs the whole court.
Very nice acid/tannin synergy that gives great, finely knit, structure.
This should drink well for at least a few more years.
$37
Aromas of toasted oak, black licorice, very deep black fruits/fruit liqueur, Amaretto and a floral note.
Quite intense and center-packed, no fat here. Licorice and spicy black fruit with great follow-through - runs the whole court.
Very nice acid/tannin synergy that gives great, finely knit, structure.
This should drink well for at least a few more years.
$37
Thursday, May 24, 2007
Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch 2006
Platinum.
Pungent citrus peel, grass, slight jalapeno and some cat piss. Very cool, intense, lifted aromatics. Smells like a NZ SB.
Vibrant, but very light impression in the mouth. Mineral/stone chew on the front teeth. Label says 12% alcohol - funny, as the palate reminds me of Federspiels from Austria. Very precise, driving flavors that mirror the nose.
Great summer wine. Also very useful for re-calibrating your mouth during a big red tasting.
$14
Pungent citrus peel, grass, slight jalapeno and some cat piss. Very cool, intense, lifted aromatics. Smells like a NZ SB.
Vibrant, but very light impression in the mouth. Mineral/stone chew on the front teeth. Label says 12% alcohol - funny, as the palate reminds me of Federspiels from Austria. Very precise, driving flavors that mirror the nose.
Great summer wine. Also very useful for re-calibrating your mouth during a big red tasting.
$14
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Algueira Ribeira Sacra (Spain) 2004
Red.
Gamey, spicy nose, hint of red fruit. Smells like something from the Languedoc.
Medium to light-weight impression, acid-driven, with little oak-influence showing (label says 12 months in French).
Iron, light red cherry and spice in the mouth. Intriguing. I imagine food-pairing geeks would love this.
100% Mencia, and completely different from anything I've had from Bierzo.
Day 3 - This has deepened considerably - now doing the meat and potato skin thing I've gotten from Palacios' Petalos bottling.
$23
Gamey, spicy nose, hint of red fruit. Smells like something from the Languedoc.
Medium to light-weight impression, acid-driven, with little oak-influence showing (label says 12 months in French).
Iron, light red cherry and spice in the mouth. Intriguing. I imagine food-pairing geeks would love this.
100% Mencia, and completely different from anything I've had from Bierzo.
Day 3 - This has deepened considerably - now doing the meat and potato skin thing I've gotten from Palacios' Petalos bottling.
$23
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
d'Arenberg "Laughing Magpie" Shiraz/Viognier 2005
Deep purple/red.
Deep nose of nuts, spice, leather and hints of black fruit.
Intense and a bit brutal, which is par for the course with this bottling (and any d'A not dominated by Grenache).
Acid/tannin synergy just shuts this thing down immediately. To quote the Sex Pistols - "No Fun" - and no complexity either.
I just don't understand what pleasure people find in these bottles.
Day 3 - Nose a bit more expansive, slight saline nuance now. Palate has more give too, but I continue to be put off by an intrusive acid/tannin wallop that seems manipulated. I'd love to know what this wine's pH would be without acidulation.
$25
Deep nose of nuts, spice, leather and hints of black fruit.
Intense and a bit brutal, which is par for the course with this bottling (and any d'A not dominated by Grenache).
Acid/tannin synergy just shuts this thing down immediately. To quote the Sex Pistols - "No Fun" - and no complexity either.
I just don't understand what pleasure people find in these bottles.
Day 3 - Nose a bit more expansive, slight saline nuance now. Palate has more give too, but I continue to be put off by an intrusive acid/tannin wallop that seems manipulated. I'd love to know what this wine's pH would be without acidulation.
$25
Te Kairanga "Runholder" Pinot Noir Martinborough (NZ)
Rose/red.
Light red fruit, herbs and underbrush nose. Lack of concentration already apparent.
Broad mouthfeel, but little flavor to speak of. Actually, this has almost nothing going on.
$25?
This blows.
Light red fruit, herbs and underbrush nose. Lack of concentration already apparent.
Broad mouthfeel, but little flavor to speak of. Actually, this has almost nothing going on.
$25?
This blows.
Monday, May 21, 2007
Palacios "Finca Dofi" Priorat 2004
Deep purple/red.
Definitely oak-influenced, but very suave and sophisticated treatment. Toasted nut and brown spices lead off, with deep black raspberry liqueur/jam and a hint of citrus that lifts the nose. Packed.
Deep, sweet palate-impression. Very harmonious in the mouth, front to back. Alcohol evident, but doesn't detract. Not at all lacking in structure, but the seamless, concentrated palate hides it well.
Day 4 - Oak treatment has taken a charred/tarry quality, but the flavor and structure depth here is remarkable. Definitely for the cellar. I'd say 8-10 years.
$65
Definitely oak-influenced, but very suave and sophisticated treatment. Toasted nut and brown spices lead off, with deep black raspberry liqueur/jam and a hint of citrus that lifts the nose. Packed.
Deep, sweet palate-impression. Very harmonious in the mouth, front to back. Alcohol evident, but doesn't detract. Not at all lacking in structure, but the seamless, concentrated palate hides it well.
Day 4 - Oak treatment has taken a charred/tarry quality, but the flavor and structure depth here is remarkable. Definitely for the cellar. I'd say 8-10 years.
$65
Santa Cruz de Artazu 2004 Navarra (Spain)
Deep red.
Red cherry/raspberry liqueur, with subtle oak spice, citrus and earth underneath. Refined, but shows a bit of alcohol.
Vibrant and intense in the mouth, with alcohol again intruding slightly. Red fruit core runs through the middle-palate. This is bound up - needs time. Minerally finish.
High-altitude Garnacha.
Day 4 - This is broader and easier in the mouth, but remains intense, spicy/minerally with a bit of heat.
Nose now reveals a deep raspberry liqueur character. I'll sit on the remaining bottles for 3-4 years.
$34
Red cherry/raspberry liqueur, with subtle oak spice, citrus and earth underneath. Refined, but shows a bit of alcohol.
Vibrant and intense in the mouth, with alcohol again intruding slightly. Red fruit core runs through the middle-palate. This is bound up - needs time. Minerally finish.
High-altitude Garnacha.
Day 4 - This is broader and easier in the mouth, but remains intense, spicy/minerally with a bit of heat.
Nose now reveals a deep raspberry liqueur character. I'll sit on the remaining bottles for 3-4 years.
$34
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Joguet Chinon (Loire Valley) "Clos de la Dioterie" 2003
Deep red/purple.
Bordeaux-ish nose of toast, charcoal, fresh green bean, earth/clay, spice, deep black fruit and a black licorice/medicinal nuance.
Middle-weight. Oak barely noticed in the mouth, with an earth/brick character, black fruit and a very nice mid-palate flavor surge. Lots of material here. Tannin is abundant, but does not overwhelm. This will certainly reward cellaring.
This is day 2, as we drank 1/2 of this last night at Canela.
Hot vintage, cool region Cabernet Franc. Good recipe.
$30?
Bordeaux-ish nose of toast, charcoal, fresh green bean, earth/clay, spice, deep black fruit and a black licorice/medicinal nuance.
Middle-weight. Oak barely noticed in the mouth, with an earth/brick character, black fruit and a very nice mid-palate flavor surge. Lots of material here. Tannin is abundant, but does not overwhelm. This will certainly reward cellaring.
This is day 2, as we drank 1/2 of this last night at Canela.
Hot vintage, cool region Cabernet Franc. Good recipe.
$30?
Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 2006
Pale straw.
Talc, nut, apple, lemon/lime and nectarine aromas. Vibrant, expressive and interesting.
Very nice mineral/fruit entry, with good flesh (probably some well-judged residual sugar) buffered by mineral acid chew.
Extremely well-balanced and satisfying.
All of $14
Screwcap
Talc, nut, apple, lemon/lime and nectarine aromas. Vibrant, expressive and interesting.
Very nice mineral/fruit entry, with good flesh (probably some well-judged residual sugar) buffered by mineral acid chew.
Extremely well-balanced and satisfying.
All of $14
Screwcap
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
Four Vines Tempranillo "Loco" 2005 Paso Robles
Deep red/purple.
Creamy, low-toned nose of maple syrup, spice and black raspberry.
Round, creamy and a bit confectionary - very "Paso" (see Linne Calodo "Martyr" note). Great breadth in the mouth, with very nice, harmonious lingering flavor. Acid/tannin clamp down ever so slightly in the finish. Not likely to gain much in the bottle, but this should be very satisfying for 4-5 more years at least.
Good to see a concentrated Tempranillo - too many weak New World examples.
$35
Creamy, low-toned nose of maple syrup, spice and black raspberry.
Round, creamy and a bit confectionary - very "Paso" (see Linne Calodo "Martyr" note). Great breadth in the mouth, with very nice, harmonious lingering flavor. Acid/tannin clamp down ever so slightly in the finish. Not likely to gain much in the bottle, but this should be very satisfying for 4-5 more years at least.
Good to see a concentrated Tempranillo - too many weak New World examples.
$35
Monday, May 14, 2007
Sierra Salinas "Mira" Yecla (Spain) 2000
Deep red.
Oak spice, smoke, date/fig, cranberry and grilled meat nose - suave, integrated.
Intense attack, almost too crazy, slight alcohol and saline spice character. Absolutely no fat here, structured to the hilt, but not hard. Intensely flavored, probably just needs to air a bit.
I've not seen this bottling in subsequent vintages. Based on Monastrell no doubt.
Day 2 - Still wildly intense and very bound up in the mouth.
$35
Oak spice, smoke, date/fig, cranberry and grilled meat nose - suave, integrated.
Intense attack, almost too crazy, slight alcohol and saline spice character. Absolutely no fat here, structured to the hilt, but not hard. Intensely flavored, probably just needs to air a bit.
I've not seen this bottling in subsequent vintages. Based on Monastrell no doubt.
Day 2 - Still wildly intense and very bound up in the mouth.
$35
Takler Regnum 2003 (Hungary)
Opaque purple/red.
Moderately intense, but deep nose of oak spice/smoke, smoked meat and figs.
Quite intense in the mouth, with alcohol driving sweet black fruit character throughout. Unfortunately, this seems hot from start to finish. Acid/tannin synergy clashes with the alcohol as well. This may integrate with a couple of days of air.
Listed 15.5% alcohol.
37.5% each Cab Franc & Merlot, 10% Kekfrankos, 15% Cab Sauvignon
Day 4 - Alcohol still there, but slightly more integrated. Palate impression creamier and longer. But this is still spiky/disjointed. This doesn't do it for me.
$60
Moderately intense, but deep nose of oak spice/smoke, smoked meat and figs.
Quite intense in the mouth, with alcohol driving sweet black fruit character throughout. Unfortunately, this seems hot from start to finish. Acid/tannin synergy clashes with the alcohol as well. This may integrate with a couple of days of air.
Listed 15.5% alcohol.
37.5% each Cab Franc & Merlot, 10% Kekfrankos, 15% Cab Sauvignon
Day 4 - Alcohol still there, but slightly more integrated. Palate impression creamier and longer. But this is still spiky/disjointed. This doesn't do it for me.
$60
Remelluri Rioja Blanco 2004
Pale, bright yellow.
Mellow, low key nose of oak spice, slight petrol, citrus (lemon/lime), and hazelnut.
Bright citrus and slightly chewy sulfide/mineral action in the mouth. Long, subtle, tactile finish.
There's nothing fat about this - quite racy. This would be very interesting to watch over several more years. Not yet showing much palate complexity, but I think it's just a matter of time.
A blend of 5 white varieties, I think. Chardonnay, Moscatel and Viognier among them.
$40
Mellow, low key nose of oak spice, slight petrol, citrus (lemon/lime), and hazelnut.
Bright citrus and slightly chewy sulfide/mineral action in the mouth. Long, subtle, tactile finish.
There's nothing fat about this - quite racy. This would be very interesting to watch over several more years. Not yet showing much palate complexity, but I think it's just a matter of time.
A blend of 5 white varieties, I think. Chardonnay, Moscatel and Viognier among them.
$40
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Linne Calodo Martyr 2005 Paso Robles
Deep red.
Forward red cherry, black raspberry, red licorice and oak spice nose. This smells like (good) candy. Great contrast to the "Hubris".
Round and sweet in the mouth in a way that seems distinctly Paso, until you taste Tablas Creek or L'Aventure.
Spherical wine, utterly seamless, with great lingering flavor. Shows slight heat that should integrate over time.
On the other hand, I don't see how this will improve a great deal in the cellar.
I understand that 2005 in Paso was a year of enormous yields, even with a good deal of fruit-thinning.
$95
Forward red cherry, black raspberry, red licorice and oak spice nose. This smells like (good) candy. Great contrast to the "Hubris".
Round and sweet in the mouth in a way that seems distinctly Paso, until you taste Tablas Creek or L'Aventure.
Spherical wine, utterly seamless, with great lingering flavor. Shows slight heat that should integrate over time.
On the other hand, I don't see how this will improve a great deal in the cellar.
I understand that 2005 in Paso was a year of enormous yields, even with a good deal of fruit-thinning.
$95
Rolf Binder "Hubris" 2004 Barossa
Deep red/purple.
Deep, plush nose of creosote, char, mint and black fruit.
Round, slightly saline impression in the mouth. No fruit bomb, as slightly grainy tannin and acid keep raspberry, plum and prune flavors from getting out of hand. There is a lot going on here - earth/peanut/creosote/fresh raspberry ....
Great core of flavor and very nice length.
I asked Binder about this wine at Hospice du Rhone last weekend. He indicated 2004 was special, and that he loves Mataro (Mourvedre).
60% Shiraz, 40% Mataro
$37
Deep, plush nose of creosote, char, mint and black fruit.
Round, slightly saline impression in the mouth. No fruit bomb, as slightly grainy tannin and acid keep raspberry, plum and prune flavors from getting out of hand. There is a lot going on here - earth/peanut/creosote/fresh raspberry ....
Great core of flavor and very nice length.
I asked Binder about this wine at Hospice du Rhone last weekend. He indicated 2004 was special, and that he loves Mataro (Mourvedre).
60% Shiraz, 40% Mataro
$37
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