Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Saint Cosme, Cote Rotie, 2003

Red.

Vinturi - subtle, complex nose - pepper/herbs/earth/raspberry/savory meat/oak spice. Keeps changing in the glass.

Round, really round, with sour green/acid edge hitting late, but making up for lost time. Showing no complexity to speak of on the palate, but that is a matter of time. Does not show any mid-palate let up, like some other '03s I've had. Significant acid/tannin constriction in the finish.

Day 3 - Smoked meat front and center, with other aromatic components subordinated. In the mouth, also, but still constricted and not complex.

$60

Cantina Terlano "Porphyr" Lagrein Riserva, Alto Adige 2005

Saturated purple.

Suave oak toast, hazelnut cream, black currant, pepper and earth. Better w/o the Vinturi. Reminds me of Bordeaux.

A round and mouth-filling middle-weight, though a bit flat initially. Very nice length and refinement, developing more lift/life as it airs over an hour. Really reminds me of solid Bordeaux.

1.5 hours in - this is killing it now. Loaded, structured.


$45. Lagrein is related to Syrah through the shared parent Dureza. And some DNA folks are now suggesting that Pinot and Syrah are related, though I can't tell if it is also through Dureza or another shared parent.

Monday, December 28, 2009

Marcassin "Blue Slide Ridge" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2004

Red.

Very deep nose shows lifted spice notes, savory meat, black cherry coulis, black pepper, and earth/truffle.

Round and mouth-filling, sensual and packed. Nice acid/tannin synergy reins it in a bit. Very well-balanced for a wine so concentrated. Nothing heavy here, either. Cinnamon/disulfide lift in the mid-palate, with corresponding light tannic chew. Not wildly complex, in the usual sense of the word, but it's hard to complain...


$85

Beaux Freres "Ribbon Ridge" Pinot Noir 2007

Light red.

Spicy red cherry, earth, herb aromas and suave barrel integration on the nose.

Round entry with stiffening, spicy, stem tannin providing front teeth chew. Bright, intense, black cherry and spice flavors go the distance. Flavor and structure running on two tracks. Nothing at all heavy or overdone here. Long, spicy finish. Completely different in style than my first BF back in the mid-late '90's. This will definitely be better with 4-6 years in the cellar.


Gift - $70?

Argyle "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006

Light red.

Cinnamon, cranberry and earth nose shows a bit of heat.

Round, easy entry with light red fruit flavors. Doesn't really come together, though, or show much depth. Heat here too.


Gift - $35? 14.5% alcohol listed.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Mas Foulaquier "L'Orphee" Pic Saint-Loup 2007

Red/purple.

Vinturi - licorice, shoe polish, earth, black raspberry on the nose. Deep, interesting.

Round and sweet texturally in a Grenache sort of way (don't know what the blend is here). Spicy red and black fruit throughout, with fairly strong framing acidity. Tightly wound, but definitely gives up some of the goods now. Better in a few years. There are stem tannins here - coating the side teeth in "chew". PFG.


$20.

Pax "Nepenthe" Alder Springs Vyd., Mendocino County 2007

Hazy straw.

Subdued nose of pear, lemon.

Easy, sweet textural character cut immediately by mineral/acid edge. Extremely difficult not to like this. Nothing huge about it, though quite concentrated. Vibrant, long, finishing flavors of lemon and light almond. Could drink a boatload of this.


$40. 50% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 15% Viognier. 14.9% alcohol.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Bussola "BG" Amarone 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - ultra-deep, loaded aromas of truffle/earth, smoke, cherry jam, savory hazelnut.

Odd celery flavor allied with textural depth matching that of the nose. Continues throughout. Not sure if this will develop well or not.. Certainly deep, but intrusive celery action is a major distraction. Opened yesterday.


$50

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Grand Veneur "Les Origines" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999

Red.

Cherry/plum jelly, pepper, cinnamon and earth nose.

Round, with a slight textural sweetness. Definitely more bass here than in the Burgundys, though not nearly as evolved in character. Cherry jam and herbs in the mouth, with relatively strong acid/tannin synergy clamping down in the finish. Pepper and herbs linger. This seems nowhere near its peak.


$25.

Vincent Girardin "Les Grands Epenots, Vieilles Vignes" Pommard 1999

Deep red.

No obvious Brett here - oak char, grilled/savory meat, red cherry jelly, forest floor, sexy spices. Beautiful nose. Also shows grilled herbs, worn leather and shoe polish as it sits.

Round and deep, with more immediate, obvious, tannic backbone than the Corton Renardes. Great mid-palate depth. Shows a hint of iron. Firm tannin really impedes finishing fruit flavor, but, interestingly, not the iron action. Seems to need several more years.. Impressive. Both of these Girardin wines were brutally tannic and dominated by wood 6-7 years ago.


$50.

Baron de la Charriere, Corton Renardes "Vieilles Vignes" 1999

Dull, evolved red.

Wild nose - iron, oak char, grilled/wilted herbs, pepper, hazelnut, cinnamon ... Keeps adding stuff with air. Reminiscent of the Alesia Pinot some time ago.

Round and plush, with an acid/wilted green/saline edge keeping everything in place. Densely packed, with red cherry jam flavor making a welcome appearance. Iron and herbs too. Tannin gives a "chewiness" to the finish. Increasingly so. Interesting and subtle, despite (or because of?) the Brett influence.


$40. From Vincent Girardin, imported by Eric Solomon. Grand Cru Burgundy.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Tapteil, Merlot, Red Mountain, Yakima Valley 2004

Deep red.

Vinturi - deep, low-toned nose - hazelnut sauce, earth, oak spice and black fruit jam. Pepper too, as it sits.

Round and mouth-filling, with great concentration and "guts", though a bit rustic. Considerable tannin does not kill finishing flavors of chocolate and cherries. Very satisfying action. A couple of enthusiastic folks could easily drain this with several lamb chops. Think Pete Rose flying head-first into 3rd base.


$32. 14.5% listed alcohol.

Casas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 1999

Red/purple.

Vinturi - charred oak/cigar ash, subtle juniper/clove, black fruit liqueur, earth, toasted nut nose.

Sweet initial textural feel immediately slapped into shape by strong acidity and moderate tannin. This will be interesting to watch over a few days, as the acidity gets the best of the flavor flow, essentially killing it in the finish. Front teeth completely constricted by acid/tannin "chew".


$35. 15.7% alcohol, from a cool region in western Australia.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Januik, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - herbs, cinnamon, red and black cherry coulis, ash, earth nose. Expressive and extremely attractive.

Round and plush, with an edge of acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Cherry and cinnamon flavors throughout. Tannin really isn't much of an issue. I'd guess this will become considerably more complex with a few more years of cellaring. RGS. Pure.


$42. Januik was the longtime winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle. He also makes Petit Verdot, something I need to snag some bottles of.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Muga "Seleccion Especial" Rioja 2001

Very deep red.

Vinturi - expressive pepper/earth/meat/baked black fruit nose. Smells deep and loaded.

Round and plush throughout, with spicy, earthy, baked black fruit flavors start to finish. This is loaded in every department, but not huge by any measure. Synergy. Love this stuff.


$27.

Arietta "H Block" Hudson Vyds., Napa Valley 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - heavy toast oak, roasted herbs/red chile, melted chocolate nose.

Plush, deep, in the mouth initially. Then dis-jointed in the mid-palate, with acidity out of whack. Every time I go back to these wines I'm disappointed. Anybody want some? I think this got a 98 in the Wine Advocate. Good advice - buy stuff from the south of France and Spain at 1/3 the price and be prepared to be thrilled.

Day 3 - Much better aromatic integration, still low-toned. Acidity (decent bit of VA) still aggressive, continuing to give a dis-jointed impression in the mouth.

$75. CF and Merlot I think.

Clerico "Ginestra" Barolo 1996

Deep red, some rim evolution.

Vinturi - integrated, beautiful nose - hazelnut and cherry liqueurs, earth, oak spice, menthol and savory meat (think stew).

Lean and intense in the mouth, makes the Passopisciaro '06 awhile back look fat. Red cherry, oak spice and hazelnut flavors buttressed by just enough mid-palate flesh to keep this from being hard. All acid/tannin synergy in the finish. Late note of iron.
Only 13 years old ... Killer stuff wafting out of the empty glass.


$50?

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Linne Calodo "Sticks and Stones" Paso Robles 2004

Deep red.

Vinturi - pepper, oak spice/nut, grilled meat, earth nose shows a bit of heat. Sexy, though, and adds herb and fig notes with air.

Round and Paso sweet, texturally, with reasonably strong supporting acidity that keeps everything fresh. Still, this shows distracting alcohol in the mid-palate that throws a wrench into the flavor flow. Alcohol and acid synergy in the finish.

Day 3 - Seamless and sexy nose. Round, sweet, with no heat showing. Great mid-palate depth. Just lacks complexity.

$68. 57% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre. 15.8% alcohol listed.

Domaine Gardies "Vieilles Vignes" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2006

Red/purple.

Vinturi - Shoe polish, fig paste, earth, blackberry liqueur on the nose. Smells dense/packed/lively. Reminds me of Priorat, only more bass here.

Round and sweet in the mouth, with a nice edge of framing acidity. Not fat, but not hard either. Even-keeled throughout, with an exotic apricot note. Quite energetic/lively and could use a few more years in the bottle to give up (all) the goods.


$28. Grenache/Carignan?

Cantina Terlano "Lunare" Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige 2006

Yellow/gold.

Deeply pitched nose of spiced peach jam, lychee candy and smoked salmon. Light note of fresh herbs, too. Additional nuances as it airs.

Round, slightly saline and sweet in the mouth, with a medicinal/iodine aspect. Wild. Shows no heat. Acidity and tannic chew actually cut through all the richness in the finish. I'm not sure if there's RS here or not. Huge flavors of slightly roasted yellow fruit jam. Can't say this is refined, but it is certainly distinctive and loaded. Lemon drop late in the extremely long finish.


$45. From a Co-op in NE Italy.

Friday, December 11, 2009

Walter Dacon, Viognier, Yakima Valley 2008

Platinum.

Apple and peach aromas.

Round and sweet (RS too), with apple and fresh pear flavors. Nice finishing acidity cuts the overt sweetness. Getting better as it sits. Tasty, simple.


$20

F. Langwerth von Simmern, Riesling, Spatlese, Rauenthaler Baiken, Rheingau 2005

Yellow. Some residual CO2.

Poached, spiced peach, meal/earth and a hint of petrol on the nose.

Deep and sweet in the mouth, with ripe, sugared, peach and peach pit flavors. Fortunately has fairly strong acidity cutting the RS and the overt sweet fruit character. Finishes with acid/mineral chew coating the teeth and lingering smoky, sweet peach flavors. PFG, though nearly dessert in style.


$30? Gift from Tim Mueller. Imported by Frank in Tucson.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Arrowood, Viognier, Russian River Valley, Saralee's Vyd. 2006

Pale straw, slight haze (unfiltered?).

Extremely fine, subtle, aromas of peach/apricot/pear, lychee candy.

Round with absolutely delicious flavors of perfectly ripe pear and apricot. Nice acid edge frames everything unobtrusively, and keeps any sense of overt sweetness in check. Really beautiful stuff. And I was worried that it might be over the hill...
This bottle is going down tonight.


$25. Gift from the Padres. Always a family favorite.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - this is more like it - understated, sexy nose - hazelnut, red cherry coulis, earth, spice, savory meat.

Intense in the mouth, with strong acidity honing flavors. There's a bit of celery character here that also showed in the Calvario. Very tightly knit throughout, like the Calvario. Shows very little, shut down completely in the finish. Fresh sage very late. This could use another 6-8 years or more.


$80. 100% Tempranillo from old vineyards (Pagos Viejos).

Finca Allende "Calvario" Rioja 2001

Red/purple.

Vinturi - smoky/toasty oak, fig, earth and reticent black pepper on the nose.

Very interesting in the mouth - oak char and a sour green character. Not sure if this bottle is off. Certainly not expressing much at the moment - green acid edge cuts everything off at the knees.


$70. 100% Tempranillo from a vineyard planted in 1945.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Massena "The Howling Dog" Barossa Valley 2005

Saturated red/purple.

Vinturi - typical, funky, Massena old barrel nose - green (bordering on fresh horseshit), medicinal, with toasted nut and deep black fruit loitering in the basement. Better as it sits. Horseshit eventually banished to the basement.

Round and mouth-filling, especially for Petite Sirah. Flavors effectively mirroring the nose. Interestingly, this really doesn't show any sense of weight. Very fine, texturally speaking, for PS. Finishes with finely grained tannin as well. Obviously not for everyone, but this would rock with some lamb fat.

Day 2 - Now we're getting somewhere. Savory meat, pepper, nuts, fig aromatics. Still a bit wild in the mouth, including a saline element, but expanded texturally. Tannin still quite fine.

$45. Petite Sirah. From Dan Standish (formerly winemaker at Torbreck) and the winemaker from Turkey Flat.

Pax "Moriah" Sonoma County 2007

Red.

Vinturi - serious, pure, aromas of raspberry coulis, nut cream sauce, earth, licorice and a lifted character (stems?). No sign of alcohol.

Plush, dense and taut simultaneously. Quite a feat. Flavors need to unwind - raspberry and earth (sulfide) currently. Finishes with fairly strong acid/mineral constriction. If there are stems here, and I think there are, the percentage is way lower than in '05. Needs 3-5 years to strut, and should drink well for many years thereafter.


$50. 80% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 8% Syrah, 4% Counoise. 15.4% alcohol listed.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Achaval-Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2006

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - deep nose - clay/earth, hazelnut sauce, fig. Savory.

Middle-weight, intense and lean. Manages some nice initial roundness and plush mid-palate. Not a great deal of flavor precision, but makes up for it, to some extent, with monochromatic "guts". Reminds me of Artadi's "Vinas de Gain" in that sense, bound to be a bit over-rated. But a pretty thing, nonetheless, and may well acquire more complexity with bottle-age. Finish is lean, though. Does not have the concentration I initially thought it had. We'll see...


$35. 34% Malbec, 32% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc.

Massena "Moonlight Run" Barossa Valley 2006

Hazy red/purple.

Vinturi - deep, spicy, black fruit nose. Not delineated.

Round, with textural sweetness and a saline character. Slightly grainy, with good concentration/stuffing. Like the nose, this lacks clarity. Finishes with acid-driven constriction that shuts down flavors.

Day 6 - Better purity and fruit sweetness. No structural impediment to finishing flavors. Give it time.

$30. 54% Grenache, 24% Shiraz, 16% Mataro (Mourvedre), 6% Cinsaut.

Forman, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1994 - 2000

1994 - Fabulous nose - toast, black fruit, earth, hazelnut. Seamless and very sexy. Round, plush entry with nice herb action. Very refined and subtle. As with most of the wines, this shows no sense of weight or alcohol. My favorite wine of the night.

1996 - Very deep nose shows some brett influence (meaty, slightly medicinal) that adds complexity. Even a hint of brine. Deep and powerful in the mouth, herbs and earth.

1999 - Beautiful nose. Deep, but less direct fruit and more earth and wild herbs. Reminds me of some of my favorite wines from the south of France. Concentrated and tannic, but not hard. Spicy, loaded. I really enjoyed this stuff.

2000 - Not a group favorite, but I thought it had far more depth and complexity than the others gave it credit for. Smells like sumptuous food (earth, meat, melted cheese) with lifted white and black pepper. Deep and sensual, with refined tannin and very good mid-palate material. Shows a bit of heat.


I think the wines from '91 on (in this tasting) show the results of better farming and probably more refined winemaking. The heavy rains in 1989 made canopy management priority #1 in the '90's. The wines in this period seem to me to show not only more depth, but also more complexity. None of these wines are "big", but all are interesting and full of life. Which is what Forman is all about, apparently.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Forman, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1986 - 1992

1986 - Shows some attractive green herb notes on the nose and in the mouth. Very pretty stuff, tapering on the finish. No sign of decline.

1987 - Similar to the '86, but deeper. A bit less clarity of flavor. Very nice, attractive wine that was the overall group favorite.

1991 - Very interesting, complex nose - herbs, black fruit, white and black pepper. All subtle. Shows much more palate depth than the two previous wines along with firmer tannin. Refined black fruit character is still tightly wound, even showing a medicinal quality.

1992 - Ripest fruit character so far, with nice oak spice and toasted nut action. Round/sensual, but not showing a great deal of depth or complexity. Still, like all the wines tasted, I'd have no problem draining this any time, any place...


Bottles and dinner provided by Mike and Bonnie Irwin. 1994 - 2000 tomorrow.