Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Cass "Rockin' One" Paso Robles 2008

Light yellow.

Deep bass aromas - corn tortilla, peach & spice. PFG.

Deep, loaded palate impression leavened beautifully by sneaky acidity and some mineral/phenolic (sulfide?) action that hones the mid-palate and finish. Side-teeth chew. RFG.


$35? Gift from Colin Waite.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Albino Rocca "Brich Ronchi" Barbaresco 1999

Red, rust rim.

Vinturi - sexy cherry jam, woodsmoke/oak spice, roasted herb and earth aromas. Savory.

Nice breadth in the mouth, particularly for Nebbiolo. Manages to have a plush mid-palate as well as serious acid/tannin spine. Flavors express nicely. Finishing note of iron. Huge structure becomes apparent with extended air time. Beautiful wine in need of several more years of bottle-age, though it drinks reasonably well now...



$50 on release.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Andrew Will, Ciel du Cheval Vyd., Red Mountain 2007

Red/purple.

Opened yesterday. Deep oozer of a nose - Andes mint, fresh earth and a massive pool of black cherry compote. Better than yesterday - seemed a bit flat then.

Round and packed, seamless, completely mouth-filling, plush. Flavors echoing nose express quite well. Not wildly complex yet, but I don't think many will quibble. Structure is in the background, but acidity and fine tannin quietly coat the teeth in refined chew. This really didn't do much for me yesterday, but showing very well now. Give it some air..


$55. 45% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Archery Summit "Arcus Estate" Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2006

Red.

Opened yesterday. Subtle, lusty nose of underbrush, fresh herbs, red cherry coulis and sexy oak spices.

Round, sumptuous entry with significant acidity immediately keeping one foot on the floor. Flavor (red cherry, spice, underbrush) and structure running on two tracks. Acid/tannin synergy really clamps down on the side teeth, but flavors sail on. RFG. This would be an interesting ringer in a Burgundy tasting. Long, subtle mineral/chew finish.


$60? Gift from the Padres

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Red.

Vinturi - low-key nose - attractive woodsy/earth/spice action with pepper and red cherry/raspberry underneath. Harmonious.

Round with considerable textural sweetness, particularly for Beaucastel. Manages to be packed with flavor and quite structured
without being ponderous or rustic. Relatively light touch, which I now think of as typical for these guys. Reminds me a bit of the Grange des Peres in this sense. Tannin builds as the wine sits, finishing with Mourvedre's iron notes. Nowhere near maturity, but drinking well already. Beautiful stuff.


$55? Not sure what the blend is in this vintage, but Beaucastel typically uses more Mourvedre than most CdP producers.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Vega Sicilia "Unico" Ribera del Duero 1986

Deep red.

Fragrant, sexy, spicebox, grilled meat, citrus, fruitcake nose.

Intensely flavored, lively middle-weight. Acid-driven with mild tannin. No sign that it is near its peak. It is quite difficult to articulate how great some of these wines are. They just are.



$Lots ? Courtesy of Mike Irwin on his 71st birthday. Like an incredible old Bordeaux on the nose - crazy, integrated, effortless complexity.

Termanthia, Toro 2003

Saturated purple.

Nose of spice box, brooding black fruit (dried fig, black raspberry), wax and licorice.

Extremely dense, but not heavy. Refined tannin builds with air time. Not yet complex in the mouth, but loaded to the hilt and in need of many years in a good cellar. The juxtaposition of incredible concentration and refinement is remarkable..



$150. 100% ungrafted, old vine Tempranillo.

Lopez-Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Reserva, Rioja 1993

Light red.

Herbs and fragrant wood spices on the nose as well as some red fruit. Light, but attractive.

Lively, light palate impression. Citrus and herb flavors. Acid-driven. Very nice stuff.


$?

Climens, Barsac 1988

Yellow/light gold.

Roasted peach/nectarine, orange marmalade, burnt sugar nose. Great.

Deep, balanced, fresh. Strong acidity cuts through considerable sweetness beautifully. Long, roasted botrytis finish suffuses the palate. FK.


$? Courtesy of Tony Vickers.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Grange des Peres, Vin de Pays de l'Herault 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - great, subtle nose of woodsmoke, herbs, grilled red fruit, fresh earth. Sumptuous.

Round with some textural sweetness immediately buffered by strongish acidity and moderate tannin. Really expressive in the mouth too. Tanzer's "inner-mouth" action. Beautifully refined, no fat. Taut. RFG. Long, subtle finish.


$60? Gift from Mr. Milic @ FnB in Scottsdale. The proprietor here did stints with Francois Coche-Dury and Chave if I'm not mistaken. Pretty good mentors... Not sure of the blend, but I think it is Syrah and maybe some Cabernet? Whatever. It rocks.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Tensley, Syrah, Tierra Alta Vyd., Santa Barbara County 2006

Red.

Vinturi - muted nose - licorice, wood spices, fig, steak sauce.

Round and mouth-filling with an unexpected sweetness. Definitely seems to have residual sugar and it doesn't fit in well with strong underlying acidity. Unfortunate, as I've enjoyed other Tensley bottlings quite a bit. Probably just a tough vintage/weird lot problem..


$22 from Time Market in Tucson.

Mas Carlot "Les Enfants Terribles" Costieres de Nimes 2005

Deep red.

Vinturi - attractive nose of wood spices, licorice, iron, earth and black fruit.

Round, initially, but still shows an acid (VA?)/Brett edge that gives this a dis-jointed feel and really clamps down in the finish. Flavors veer toward iron/blood. Needs considerable air, say decanting 24 hours in advance.. This bottling was impossible to enjoy when released due to a Brett bloom in the bottle (CO2 and stink). Still edgy, but far better now.


$12. Mourvedre and Syrah

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Tardieu-Laurent, St. Joseph "Vieilles Vignes" 2003

Deep red.

Opened yesterday. Utterly sexy/savory nose of wood smoke/spices, smoked meat, molasses, grilled herbs and black fruit.

Round and mouth-filling with simultaneous acid-driven structure framing and focusing palate impression. Really loaded and expressive at the same time. And structured to the hilt - acid/tannin constriction really shuts down the mouth in the finish - though smoked meat, herb flavors manage to ride through. RFG, but I'd be careful about cellaring this more than another 3-5 years. Tardieu-Laurent did a very good job in the very hot 2003 vintage. Lots of very highly rated 2003 wines from the northern Rhone seem dead/flat to me, albeit wildly concentrated.


$35. 100% Syrah

Peyre Rose "Clos Des Cistes" Coteaux du Languedoc 2003

Deep red.

Opened yesterday. Low-toned nose of wood spices, Bordeaux-ish embers, baked black raspberry, dried herbs and A-1 steak sauce. Definitely from a warm vintage.

Round and plush, particularly for this producer. Deep and packed, but not really showing much complexity. Grainy tannin cuts into the finish. But this may well be better 3-4 days from now..


$40? Gift from Mr. Bo Stock. Peyre Rose raises its Syrah in stainless steel, though this seems to show barrel influence. This wine has some Grenache in it, I think. The other bottling "Leone" includes some Mourvedre.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Hirtzberger "Honivogl" Gruner Veltliner, Wachau (Austria) 2004

Yellow/gold.

Deep, rich, bass nose of lentil, mint, citrus marmalade with a spicy/peppery undertone.

Really fills the mouth, and then expands (if that is possible) with flavors that mirror the nose. The spicy/peppery quality adds real lift and vibrancy. Deep lentil, citrus and spice action flows into a ridiculously long finish. This stuff just keeps kicking out flavor.. Great idiosyncratic white wine, as usual. I love this stuff.


$45. Do yourself a favor - get a bottle or two of GV. There are inexpensive versions ($12-20) that are incredibly refreshing.