Sunday, June 29, 2008

Eddie Feraud, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003

Deep red.

Garrigue/spicy ketchup/peanut sauce/kirsch/damp earth/brine/shrimp nose. Jesus.

Very intense entry, some textural sweetness immediately tempered by citrus zest chew reminiscent of Spanish Garnacha. Spicy ketchup in the mouth too, with citrus action taking over quickly. Atypical 2003 CdP - structured and far from opulent - but absolutely loaded. Another crazy wine that rocks. Front teeth coated in iron/stem flavored chew.

Eddie is a stud.

$40

Alois Lageder "Lindenburg" Lagrein, Alto Adige (Italy) 1997

Purple/red.

Bordeaux-ish nose - oak toast, blackcurrant and spice. Deep and loaded. Seems far younger than it is.

Round and mouth-coating, with serious concentration and acid-enhanced tannic spine. Black fruit, licorice and spice flavors are quite intense, with acidity driving them through significant structural impediments. Is this thing anywhere near its peak? Crazy.

Day 7 - This hasn't shown any improvement, or, more remarkably, any degradation in quality. More pliant in the mouth now. No sign of oxidation. This is not going to improve with additional cellaring, but will drink well for several more years I'd guess.


$25 on release. Lagrein is a grape variety. Never had a bad bottle of this stuff.

Domaine L'Aigueliere "Cote Doree" Montpeyroux (Languedoc) 1996

Deep, dull red. Rust rim.

Huge, expressive, totally French Syrah nose of wilted herbs/greens, smoked ham/bacon/breakfast sausage and toast. Breakfast of champions. Where's the fruit? Who cares?

Round with a sour edge that will annoy many. Wilted greens in the mouth too, with latent smoked meat flavors. No fat whatsoever - taut, lean and intense. No question this will sing with the right food.


$30 on release?

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Panther Creek, Auden Vyd, Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir 2003

Deep red.

Toasted nut, savory meat/earth and suave oak spice nose. Crancherry/raspberry coulis underneath. Something here reminds me of Rioja.

Tightly wound and intense in the mouth, with a citrus character dominating. Nice breadth, stopping just short of textural sweetness. Serious acid structure, some might say mineral, cuts into the mid-palate flavor expression. Then the finish kicks in with chewy red fruit. Cranberry. Distinctive, interesting action. No need to drink soon.

Gift - $40?

Monday, June 23, 2008

Chateau de Fonbel, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Purple.

Clay/earth, black raspberry, toast, licorice aromas. Concentrated, but subtle/refined.

Very light impression in the mouth, this will definitely disappoint people used to opulent CA wines. Intense mid-palate flavors of blackcurrant/blackberry and a minerality that attacks the tongue, then migrates to all the teeth. Not at all brutal or rustic, in fact, quite the opposite. Definitely built to improve in the bottle.

This is deepening as it airs.

$25 From the family that owns Ch. Ausone (roughly $1000/btl in 2005)

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Hartford "Stone Cote Vyd." Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2004

Straw/light yellow.

Tight nose - mineral, light sulphide and a hint of lemon.

Round and slightly sweet initial textural impression, immediately set straight by a relatively strong acid/sulphide, chewy, edge. Caramel, lemon and rock/mineral flavors are intense, but very refined. Caramel and mint on the long, subtle finish.

No question, this is VGS. Pure.

$45

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Sportoletti, Rosso, Assisi 2006

Red. Residual CO2 evident.

Red cherry, toasted nut/lava earth aromas.

Quite intense crancherry, iron, mineral action in the mouth. This has decent flesh but also a serious backbone. Acid thrusts tannin onto the front teeth. No way this won't improve with 3-5 years in the bottle.

This must be mostly Sangiovese.

$15

Rolf Binder "Heinrich" Barossa Valley 2005

Purple/red.

Black raspberry coulis, earth, licorice and peppermint aromatics.

Round and seamless in the mouth, with a middle-weight feel. Acid tamps down any textural extravagance. Raspberry flavor dominates. Mint flavor kicks in strongly in the finish.

Day 3 - More reticent on the nose now. Earth and some oak spice. Nice depth, though. Round and very creamy in the mouth. Raspberries and cream. Not particularly complex, but quite easy to enjoy.


$25 screwcap. 55% Shiraz, 30% Mataro, 15% Grenache.

Veritas (Rolf Binder) "Heinrich" Barossa Valley 2001

Red/rust.

Nut, menthol, sea salt aromatics. Meaty/savory fruit underneath. Salami too.

Spherical in the mouth, with a saline/acid edge at the periphery. Menthol, licorice and red fruit flavors melded nicely with light tannin. An unusual inexpensive Aussie - this has actually developed in the bottle.

Day 3 - Huge menthol aromatic action now, with dried fig, cured meat and salt underneath. Still completely mouth-filling with fig, meat and saline flavors.

$20 on release. 40% Shiraz, 40% Mataro (Mourvedre), 20% Grenache.

Friday, June 20, 2008

J.J. Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Kabinett 2002

Straw.

Spiced apple, white peach and wax aromas.

Slightly sweet, easy impression of peach/nectarine pit with good acidity (and some residual CO2) keeping things fresh. Light minerality kicks in on the very subtle, but long, finish. Fine flavors of apple/peach/nectarine hang on almost indefinitely. Fine mineral chew lightly coats the front teeth. Delicate stuff - very easy to miss it.

$25

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Remizieres, Crozes-Hermitage "Cuvee Particuliere" 2005

Deep purple.

Dense nose of cheese (indeed), wilted herbs, spice, black olive and licorice.

Very dense in the mouth, despite a light/middle-weight feel. Grainy/chewy loaded impression in the mouth - reminds me of a
Pax Syrah. Just in alcohol. All licorice in the front teeth-coating finish.

Opened yesterday. Fresher and more delineated then.

$25

Monday, June 16, 2008

Clos Marie "Les Glorieuses" Pic St. Loup (Languedoc) 2004

Purple/red.

Killer nose - cracked pepper, grilled herbs with suggestions of grilled meat, oak toast, potato. Raspberry underneath. This smells like a packed Cote Rotie.

Middle-weight in the mouth, and, again, this reminds me of a super-charged Cote Rotie. Pepper/garrigue/earth/deep raspberry flavors fight through substantial acid-enhanced tannin. No sweetness/fat here. This is loaded, chewy, with a saline density in the finish. Coats every tooth in the mouth with chewy herb action.

Not sure, but I think this is primarily Syrah. Structured, complex, age-worthy.

Day 4 - Still killer on the nose. Round with a N. Rhone-ish sour edge. Still reminds me of killer Cote Rotie. How is this possible in the Languedoc?

$75

Saxum "Bone Rock" James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2004

Deep purple.

Suave, smoky oak, toasted nut sauce, coconut and deep black fruit nose.

Round and quite sweet textural impression buffered by a seemingly balanced acid/tannin synergy which coats the front teeth in "chew". Very slight hint of alcohol, but nothing crazy, and no more than the Copain exhibited. This works. Deep, long and chewy. This also has great tension. Again, this has me thinking Priorat.


15.8% alcohol. Very different approaches to similar fruit, although this is 85% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 3% Grenache.

The Copain seems a bit tame tonight. We'll see ..

Day 4 - Deep and saucy/spicy. A bit abrasive too. Need to blend Copain and Saxum.


$55

Copain, Syrah, James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2004

Purple.

Blue and black fruit, pepper, oak spice and sausage on the nose. Under-stated, deep.

Round and moderately sweet, texturally. Raspberry, earth and spice flavors driven by fairly strong acidity. Flavors coast through, however. Nice tension. I think this will become more expressive in the mouth with bottle-age.

Day 4 - Deep, sausage, nut sauce, earth and pepper nose with black fruit pooled underneath. Structure has moderated considerably, allowing black and blue fruit to express fully. Undoubtedly very good wine, but I still miss the thrill factor from a great site. And I doubt that cellaring will deliver it either.

14.6% alcohol

$45

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2005

Deep purple.

Clay/earth/nut paste/blackberry custard/oak spice nose. Deeper, but less precise than the 2004.

Huge in the mouth, coating everything with blackberry and spice flavors, with a sneaky citrus note appearing late. This could be mistaken very easily for Ribera del Duero or even Toro. Not complex, but loaded to the hilt. Almost certainly a result of a hotter vintage.

Day 3 - Brighter on the nose - mint and an incense note along with the rest of the gang from day 1. Deep black fruit in the mouth immediately crimped by slightly aggressive tannin. This definitely needs time.

Full-bore, but clearly less refined than the 2004.

$75

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2004

Purple.

Egg/custard/earth/clay/toasted nut/grilled meat/coconut aromatics. Deep black raspberry folded underneath.

Round with a slight textural sweetness in the mouth. Ripe, sweet fruit character allied with serious concentration and very fine, packed tannin. Suave, expressive and loaded. No question this needs several years in the bottle to show at its best, but not at all difficult to enjoy now (with real food).

Day 3 - Grilled oak integrated beautifully with black raspberry and earth aromas. Nothing out of place, suave, seamless. There's a mint note here, too. Seamless in the mouth, also, with plentiful fine tannin that does little to restrict flavor flow.
Getting serious citrus action in the very long, chewy finish.

$85, 100% old-vine Tempranillo.

Friday, June 6, 2008

La Spinetta "Pin" Monferrato Rosso 2005

Purple/red.

Tight-fisted aromas of deep black fruit (blackberry/prune), clay/earth and oak spice. Pristine, reticent.

Acid-driven black fruit, spice and mineral in the mouth, quite linear in expression (no fat). Intense black fruit and licorice flavors ride through the mid-palate. Not wildly concentrated, but well constructed..

Day 3 - Intense black fruit, earth, shoe polish and spice aromatics - not shy anymore. No doubt about the acid-fruit synergy here. Much more mid-palate flesh today. Very modern style, but it works for me.


$45 (Barbera/Nebbiolo)

Reignac, Bordeaux Superior 2005

Opaque purple.

Aromas of clay/earth, black raspberry (both coulis and baked), licorice and a floral note. Deep. No obvious oak, despite 100% new oak aging. With some airtime - pepper and a medicinal nuance.

Round and packed in the mouth. Grainy/chewy. Black fruit and licorice riding through. Not showing any real complexity in the mouth, yet, but for the money this is a killer buy. Sock it away for 4-6 years, or longer.

This is really good action. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Day 3 - Clay/earth/meal, blackberry/black raspberry sauce and licorice aromatics. Extremely concentrated in the mouth, with grainy/chewy tannin. It will be interesting to see how this develops with bottle-age.

$25

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Drylands, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2007

Platinum.

Pungent herb, grapefruit/lemon aromatics.

Intense entry, but lacking flavor drive in the mouth. Mineral/acid chew dominates the finish. Tasty ..


$15

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Villa Maria, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, Marlborough 2006

Platinum.

Pungent asparagus, citrus zest aromas. Pure, bracing.

Intense citrus/asparagus flavors in the mouth and huge, driving, mineral/acid structure. Nice textural (?) sweetness balances structural impact. This deserves its "Reserve" status, as it is NZ SB - squared. Front teeth coated in stony chew.

Day 2 - Similar nose with a nut character emerging. Shows a bit of (welcome) textural sweetness now. Flavor intensity more than matching stony chew. Great, resounding, length.

$28

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills 2005

Light yellow.

Popcorn/truffle/sulfide/meal/lemon nose. Nothing fat or oaky here.

Intense truffle/sulfide, popcorn and lemon flavors with mineral/acid chew. Good length. This reminds me of much more expensive stuff from the Sonoma Coast, even Chablis.

Day 2 - Nut paste/sulfide action on the nose. Broader in the mouth and a bit abrasive too. Still, this provides a great mini-version of far more expensive action.

$20 PFG, especially for the $$.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Tablas Creek "Esprit de Beaucastel" Paso Robles 2005

Purple/red.

Deep, complicated nose - tree bark, anise, earth, red cherry jam and a load of spices.

Round with a good dose of textural sweetness (seems higher in alcohol than the 2004), with big red fruit (raspberry and cherry) coupled with a medicinal nuance and huge structure. More tannin here, it seems, than the 2004, with acid every bit as strong. Iron note late. Very young wine.

Day 3 - Not as fresh on the nose as the 2004 (just like day 1) - earthy, Bandol-central action - very deep. Round and sweet in the mouth, little structural impediment now. Light tannin in the finish, and seems to show a bit of heat. An enjoyable hybrid - Beaucastel/Saxum. The 2004 is better, largely because it is seamless, balanced. Never thought I'd say something like that...

$40 (44% Mourvedre, 26% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Counoise, 14.5% listed alcohol)

Tablas Creek "Esprit de Beaucastel" Paso Robles 2004

Deep red.

I'd be very hard-pressed to identify this as CA wine - seamless nose of clay/earth, cherry jam, toasted nut, licorice. Interesting, deep and not at all fruit-driven. No suggestion of alcohol.

Round, mouth-filling - surprisingly fresh flavors of red raspberry, spice and just a hint of earth. Acid-driven tannin clamps down pretty strongly in the finish, but red fruit flavor sails through. Almost saline finish, with a slightly baked fruit character emerging.

Day 3 - Deep, fresh aromas of raspberry and mint, with Bandol-like earth/licorice underneath. Then iron .. Very interesting, effortless, complexity. Nice depth in the mouth, with a grainy impression. Round, well-concentrated, nothing out of balance.
Love to see this again in 6-8 years.

A great contrast in style to other "West-Side" Paso wineries.

$40 (50% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 17% Grenache, 6% Counoise, 14.5% Alcohol listed)

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Argyle, Pinot Noir "Reserve" Willamette Valley 2006

Light, filtered, red.

Cranberry and low-toned nut and meat aromas with air time. Red fruit character increasingly vibrant.

Creamy and round in the mouth, with tart red fruit and spice flavors. Quite enjoyable and lively, just lacks any sense of complexity or depth.

Day 4 - Vanilla and strawberry aromas, pretty attractive. Round, suave, fresh, red fruit flavors - completely satisfying on a basic level.

$30? Gift. Screwcap (tin liner)