Thursday, May 29, 2008

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Light, hazy red.

Nut liqueur, cherry pit, earth and licorice nose.

Round, sweet entry, with edgy acidity a bit awkward initially. Intense cherry and spice flavors seem bound up. This thing needs to sit.

Day 2 - Much more open in the mouth - cherry jam, spice/earth, and, well, it's still bound up. A hint of a tidal/chlorine character in the finish says this is still in need of air time. Getting there - slowly.

Day 4 - Deeper pool of cherry fruit/jam on the nose - sumptuous. Open for businessin the mouth, too. Very deep cherry, earth and a garrigue nuance. Still taut, with a strong spine of acid-driven tannin, but flavors manage to navigate though it all.
This needs to sit for several more years, and may drink well for a ridiculously long time.

$40

Las Rocas Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Catalayud (Spain) 2003

Deep red.

Forward, slightly musky/boring fruit aromas, with cool stuff (citrus/spice/nuts) lurking in the background. Thankfully expressed more as the wine airs. All kinds of stuff now - mint, peanut, black raspberry, orange zest and meat. Floral action too. I'm reminded of killer Aussie Grenache.

Very intense, neither round nor sweet, citrus peel vivacity that will not let up. Spicy tomato and a hint of garrigue, but really driven by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Coats the front teeth in citrus chew. Crazy, intense action. Will this develop complexity in the mouth? Long finish finally reveals the pepper side of citrus.

Day 4 - All black raspberry, nut liqueur and earth on the nose now. Doesn't suck. Then intense citrus peel flavor in the mouth with corresponding citrus chew coating the front teeth. This is almost abrasive in its citric intensity - some folks will shoot a nasty biscuit - but I think it rocks.

$16, major deal.

Lesec, Vacqueyras "Vieilles Vignes" 2000

Deep red.

Spicy tomato, garrigue, smoke and potato/earth nose. Hint of blood/iron also.

Round, spicy entry, with strong acidity and reasonably fine tannin providing the framework. Iron, garrigue flavors resonate throughout. Quite long, just not refined or nuanced. Very southern Rhone - surprising - as I remember this being quite fruit driven and plush in its youth. New oak, I thought back then, but no sign of it now.

Day 4 - Wild, lifted, nose now - dried herbs, cracked black pepper, orange zest, earth. Reminds me, to some extent, of a cool-climate Aussie Shiraz. Then a hint of wilted herbs and potato in the mouth (N. Rhone?), slight oxidation.

A great deal. Lesec makes wine simply, and when it works (minimal Brett influence), the wines can be killer.

$25

Alban, Viognier, Edna Valley 2006 (Estate)

Light yellow. Unfiltered.

Lichee candy, slight caramel and pear on the nose. Reticent.

Then intense, spicy, canned peach, sweet, yet structured, texture and lichee candy in the mouth. There's an unobtrusive acid/phenolic edge to this that keeps everything taut. Quite long apricot/peach/lichee action in the finish. The alcohol seems very much in check, particularly as the wine warms. Chewy peach/clove/lichee flavor won't quit.

Day 4 - Huge today, very expressive, with slight heat that is easy to forgive. Very long.

16.2% alcohol listed, and it seems to work just fine. Should come with a warning label.



$40

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Finca Sandoval, Manchuela (Spain) 2002

Deep purple/red.

Toasty oak, hazelnut, black raspberry and licorice on the nose.

Round and slightly sweet, texturally, with black raspberry, nut and spice flavors kept taut by fairly strong acidity and moderate tannin. Very nice depth and refinement in the mid-palate, which is also slightly dis-jointed. Structure really intrudes on the finish, but I think this simply needs more time.

Day 2 - Now this is getting complicated on the nose - savory meat/game, earth, suave oak toast, hint of spearmint and cracked pepper. Aromas are deep, sauce-like. Intense pepper/spice chew in the mouth, bound up in the mid-palate and finish. Pepper flavor rides the whole track, little sign of fruit now, although there is a suggestion of citrus.

Later - I get a cherry jam, savory oak and spice character that reminds me of new-wave Barolo. All over the place.

Victor de la Serna's (Spanish wine critic) first release. 91% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre

$40

Clarendon Hills, Astralis Vyd., Syrah, Clarendon 2002 (Australia)

Deep purple/red.

Fresh, lifted white and black pepper, deep blackberry/raspberry coulis, earth and a seamless oak contribution. For some reason, I am reminded of a Thackrey Orion. Killer nose. Hints of game, black olive and dried fig with air.

Utterly round and completely mouth-enveloping, with a saline character. Expresses both pepper colors in the mouth too, as well as a eucalyptus note (Thackrey connection) and toasted nuts. Fruit definitely in the background, as relatively strong, but fine, acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish. Then both peppers and black raspberry coulis flavors come back in force on an extremely long finish.

Completely different in character, but on the same level as the Blue-Slide Pinot from Marcassin. All kinds of shit coming out of the woodwork as the wine airs. Just absolutely stupid.

Day 2 - Now much less vivid on the nose, more saucy. The deep pool of black raspberry fruit more jam-like in character, and the overall impression much more South Australian in nature. Really packed in the mouth, but, again, less sign of the pepper action from yesterday. Huge volume, less nuance. But, just like yesterday, when you think this thing is done, it kicks in again with cracked black pepper. Crazy. This thing has nine lives.


$200, 14.5% alcohol listed (and I'd guess pretty accurate, no heat).

Cayuse, Cailloux Vyd., Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2001

Deep red.

Smoke, smoked ham/bacon, earth, pepper aromatics. Black raspberry buried.

Round, mouth-coating, slightly grainy/saline entry. Middle-weight, with no suggestion of heat. Black raspberry more obvious in the mouth, with smoke and earth character complemented by a toasted nut barrel contribution. Rides pretty evenly throughout, picking up a tangy nuance on the finish.

Day 2 - Nose hasn't changed a great deal - just more integrated - with seared pork fat and toasted nut sauce as wholesome additions. This is something you want to eat. Creamy in the mouth now, with a tangy/saline edge that makes you salivate (more). Contained completely within its limits - deep, long and interesting.

$55

Prager, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, Achleiten Vyd. 2003 (Austria)

Straw/yellow.

Odd nose - slightly eggy, suggestion of lime.

Better in the mouth - lime, simple, but pure, with very little obvious residual sugar. Nice mineral/acid drive.
Ultimately not very interesting. I'd never guess GV blind.

$40

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Snoqualmie, Riesling "Winemaker's Select" Columbia Valley 2006

Straw/yellow.

Grain/meal, lemon/lime and spice notes on the nose.

Significant sugar action in the mouth, with pure nectarine flavor emerging, as does an acid/"mineral" chew that slices through the sugar. Great "interplay" of sugar and acid. Very refreshing and taut. I think German Riesling-lovers could find a place in their hearts for this. Not complex, but easy to enjoy. Or will this add nuance with bottle-age?

Drink it. PFG.

$15? Gift

Maryhill, Viognier, Columbia Valley 2006

Straw.

Lychee candy, grain/meal, and tropical fruit on the nose.

Thick, fairly sweet entry, with huge canned peach and tropical fruit flavors. Very nicely balanced with reasonably strong acidity. Fresh and very tasty, with residual sugar adding to the fruit-driven finish. Summer wine. Not a style of Viognier that usually works (for me).

$20? Gift

Monday, May 19, 2008

Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2000

Dull red.

Deep nose of suave toasted oak, mint, meat and black fruit. Not as expressive as Blue-Slide, but even deeper. A licorice note late.

Very deep in the mouth, but not quite as round or mouth-coating as the Blue-Slide. Very densely packed oak, truffle and black cherry flavors, with acid driving the tangy finish, coating the front teeth. This is nowhere near prime-time.

Day 2 - Still very deep, but a bit bound up. Great, chewy structure. Will it express?

$130

Marcassin, Blue-Slide Ridge, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2000

Dull red/purple.

Deep, sumptuous nose - savory, slow-roasted meat, raspberry, underbrush/forest floor, orange peel, cherry jam, toasted oak spice - whatever. Absolutely killer nose.

Round and completely mouth-filling, with a soy element initially, followed by duck fat, red fruit and intense spice coupled with relatively strong acidity. This will be around for awhile longer. It isn't quite completely harmonious, yet, but it's close. Huge, expressive, length of flavor.

Day 2 - Hazelnut liqueur an addition to the nose. Orange peel now in the mouth, quite vibrant, spicy red fruit (crancherry) that just keeps powering through. Tannin is quite fine. Just stupid.

$90

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Mogador 1998 Priorat (Spain)

Purple/red.

Grilled meat, shoe polish, earth/truffle, cherry jam aromatics. Another wine that could be confused with Amarone.

Intense cherry flavor and acid/tannin synergy immediately (not like Amarone). Big, chewy, tannic structure kicks in on the finish. This was opened 5 hours ago - definitely more giving in the mouth then. This will always be tannic, I think, but will drink well for 6-10 more years with dead animal/roasted potato action.

Day 2 - Nose a bit muddled, palate is extremely intense. Huge, driving, black fruit and oak spice sweetness, met immediately by Priorat specific acid/tannin synergy. The chew coats the front teeth. I often think of certain Paso Robles wines as Priorat-like, but they lack the tannic backbone/chew of Priorat. Fruit-sweetness is one thing. It is an entirely different order of magnitude to bring a matching structural counterpoint.

$45 on release

Friday, May 16, 2008

Esperanca, Red Douro (Portugal) 2003 (Bernard Magrez)

Purple.

High-class toasted oak nose with red and black fruit underneath. Bordeaux influence very obvious. A truffle nuance with air - another suggestion of Amarone .. undoubtedly a vintage contribution.

Seamless, suave, plush entry. Red fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, cherry) is deep and bordering on jam. I keep expecting a structural lashing that never materializes. This is plush throughout, with a light tannic chew that is hardly intrusive. This is packed. Initially it seemed "international" and very well-made, but as it sits, it expands and expresses the real stuff.

Magrez is a Rolland client, an it would be easy to knock this as "technical" wine. But it rocks. Love to see it in 6-8 years.

Day 4 - Now I get an aromatic quality that reminds me of the Rhone and Rioja simultaneously. Interesting, sumptuous action.
A bit candied in the mouth now, not nearly as interesting as Day 1.

$40

Niepoort "Redoma Reserva" Douro White Wine 2005 (Portugal)

Straw/yellow.

Discreet aromas of lemon, apple, pear, meal and a hint of pepper. Reminds me of a very classy white Burgundy (or Remelluri Blanco).

NIce sweetness on entry, with strong citric acidity cutting through. Very refined and subtle, but also concentrated. Long stony, citric chew of a finish. Late note of spearmint. This is extra cool action. No way I'd have guessed this came from the Douro.

I wonder what this is a blend of? Assuming it is a blend.

$40

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Les Cailloux, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003

Red.

Grilled meat, sulphide action - this seems whacked/atypical.

Better in the mouth - cherry jam and spice. Round and packed, but hardly complex at this point. Odd bottle?

Day 2 - Never mind. Charcoal/truffle, meat and cherry jam on the nose. Hint of garrigue. Really round and plush, with rich cherry jam and spice flavors. Slightly chewy, but great mid-palate flesh. This reminds me a bit of Amarone. Late note of strawberry jam. Probably the best vintage I've had of this stuff. Loaded.

$30

Capiaux, Pinot Noir, Freestone Hill Vyd, Russian River Valley 2005

Deep red.

Pungent, crushed cranberry/citrus zest, earth and oak spice. Definitely RRV, but with a deep, meaty aspect.

Round and mouthcoating, with citrus zest "edge" immediately framing it all. There's a sulphide/phenolic character here that gives an added, chewy (front teeth) dimension, too. Not an "easy" style of Pinot, ultimately, but not at all overdone. This really does need food. Very interesting.

14.3% alcohol listed

Gift - $40?

Zind Humbrecht, Riesling, Rangen "Clos St. Urbain" 2004

Pale yellow.

Spicy/smoky, lemon/grapefruit marmalade aromatics. Quite refined, though, with a lime zest undercurrent.

Mouthfilling flavors of jellied, fleshy white fruit and grapefruit marmalade, immediately cut by minerally acidity and a bit of tannin. There seems to be some sugar here, but it gets buried quickly. Very long, rich and pure. Nice balancing act.

Day 2 - More structure in the mouth today - mineral action hits the front teeth - providing great tension/contrast. Lime now the dominant flavor in the mouth, making the salivary glands work overtime. Killer.

Day 3 - Doing a lychee candy, Gewurtztraminer-like thing on the nose and in the mouth. Mineral/front-teeth chew reminds you it is actually Riesling.

14% Alcohol, Indice 1 (dry)

$60

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Forgeron Cellars, Syrah, Boushey Vyd. Columbia Valley 2004

Purple.

Earth/spice/black fruit nose. Harmonious, expressive.

Round and slightly sweet texturally. Nice black fruit and spice flavors start to finish. Really plump in the mid-palate. Very well-made, satisfying stuff. Hardly a fruit-bomb.

$30? Gift

Sunday, May 11, 2008

JP Belle-Terroir, Barossa Valley, Shiraz 2002

Black/purple.

Toasty oak, pepper, grilled meat, earth, spicy fig, toasted nut - this is like smelling a reduction sauce, still in the pan.

Round and broad in the mouth, but not fat. Quite measured and refined, in fact, and totally loaded. Flavors flow bank to bank without a ripple. Structure, slightly favoring acidity, frames everything without intruding. Slight saline impression. Gets a bit dis-jointed in the finish, but I don't seem to care. Another wine I could go blind drinking.

Day 3 - Still grilled/spicy/savory on the nose. I think this saw a good bit of new oak, but it reminds me of a Standish Shiraz aged in old wood. A certain old-school feel. Very deep. Sweet/sensual palate-impression, very long, with structure slowly revealing itself. Killer action.

A collaboration between Chris Ringland and Trevor Jones. 30 months in oak.

$90

Carlisle, Sonoma County, Syrah 2002

Opaque purple.

Toasty oak, menthol, figs, smoked ham and herbs on the nose.

Round, creamy in the mouth, just a hint of textural sweetness. Flavors follow from the nose, adding a note of tar. Acid-driven structure cuts into, buts does not kill, the finish. Despite listed 15.9% alcohol, I get no overt heat. This is RGS. Mike Officer is apparently a huge fan of Barossa Shiraz. But I get far more complexity here than most of the stuff I've had from Barossa.

Day 3- Less interesting on the nose - spicy/peppery/menthol - but more integrated. Really sweet in the mouth now. I think I'd drink this over the next 2-3 years.

$45

Yangarra, Old Vine Grenache, McLaren Vale 2005

Purple.

Floral, black raspberry coulis aromatics. Suggestions of Andes mint, earth/meat and a medicinal nuance too.

Round and dense/grainy in the mouth. Raspberry and earth/medicinal flavors ride through slightly chewy mid-palate and finish. Serious Grenache. From a 60 year-old, sandy, vineyard. I'd guess there is some Syrah in this.

Day 2 - Andes Mint, front and center, on the nose. Really deep and layered in the mouth. Strawberry a flavor addition. Slight saline character contributes to grainy, concentrated impression. This is a stupid buy in serious Australian Grenache.

$25

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Alonso del Yerro "Maria" Ribera del Duero 2005

Purple.

Deep clay, barrel spice/toast, blackberry pie aromatics.

Round and creamy in the mouth, saturated, grainy impression throughout. Reminds me of a Pax Syrah in that sense. Not showing much in the flavor department, yet. Acid/tannin synergy reaches the front teeth in the finish. I always wonder if wines like this will ever deliver any complexity in the mouth. But it has nice purity and is obviously well-made (Stephane Derencourt - Bordeaux winemaker/consultant).

Day 4 - Licorice and an exotic blackberry/peach combination on the nose now - with an interesting, seemingly acid-driven, constriction in the mouth. Others might say mineral. Whatever it is, it's a lees-aging thing. Coats the front teeth. It will be very interesting to watch this develop over the next 7-8 years.

$60

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Villa Creek "Onda" Paso Robles 2005

Purple/red.

Aromas of oak toast, coconut, meat, cream, red raspberry coulis and a hint of mint.

Round, sweet and layered in the mouth. More textural interest than flavor action at the moment, but acidity seems to drive red fruit character deep into the finish. It must be the reasonably high natural acidity (from well-farmed, low-yield vineyards) on Paso's West side that always reminds me of Priorat.

Day 6 - Integrated, sumptuous nose. Round and sweet in the mouth, similar to day 1. In fact, almost exactly the same. I'll have to get another bottle or two for future reference.


34% Tempranillo, 33% Syrah, 33% Mourvedre

$50

Palacios "Petalos" 2006 (Bierzo, Spain)

Purple.

Grilled meat, menthol, spice and a suggestion of citrus/pepper on the nose. Lower-toned earth/potato/blood action with air.

Round and packed in the mouth, with a building sense of sweetness. Earth/citrus/meat flavors are bright and intense. Chewy and long, with acidity driving the finish.

This is killer. How can you buy this with a crappy $/euro exchange for only $20? More "modern" in style than usual.

WTF? Every restaurant in the country should be pouring this by the glass.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Turley, Duarte, Contra Costa County, Zinfandel 2005

Light red.

Great nose - sumptuous and fresh - citrus/cranberry, earth, savory meat.

Round and sweet texturally. Slight heat. Red fruit character start to finish, slightly bumpy in the mid-palate. Better on the nose, but this may gain complexity in the mouth with bottle-age.

Day 3 - Interesting - color is now purple/red. Spearmint now shows on the nose. Round, sweet and creamy with really nice depth of red fruit coulis mid-palate flavors. One of the best Duarte bottlings I've had.

$35

Monday, May 5, 2008

Sokol Blosser "Estate Cuvee" Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2005

Light red.

Fragrant Pinot nose of red cherry/strawberry/cranberry. Then you notice the low-toned, savory, meaty, earth/underbrush action. Nice spice too.

Round, but a bit edgy and dis-jointed (residual CO2) in the mouth. Strawberry in the mouth, slightly chewy. This needs air, decanting recommended if you'll be drinking this soon.

Day 3 - Nose hasn't changed much, but this is now much suaver in the mouth. Savory meat, caramel and crancherry flavors - long. Mild, acid-driven structure frames everything nicely.

Gift - $40?