Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero 2004

Deep purple/red.

Suave, toasty marshmallow oak, macaroon and black fruit custard nose.

Intense and deep, with acid-driven structure framing deeply concentrated flavors immediately. Loaded, with a plush black fruit and oak spice mid-palate. Structure intermittently interrupts finish.

As good as this is, you wonder what a bit of Cabernet Franc, Graciano or Garnacha (or Malvasia) might do for this wine. Pesquera too.

$50 gift. 100% Tempranillo.

Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2005

Murky purple/red.

Broad/thick nose - coconut/black fruit custard, earth and suave oak spices.

Really covers the mouth, initially, then strong acidity and moderate tannin dive in. Pretty constricted in the mid-palate, presently, but flavors eventually wiggle out. Definitely needs a few years to strut. Opened yesterday.

$25

Hiedler "Thal" Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2006

Straw.

Smoky, popcorn/creamed corn nose currently dominated by sulfides. But actually attractive, particularly for white Burgundy people. Herbs and citrus/pear underneath. Sulfide character receding with air and warming.

Intense, bright flavors are all over the map - sulfide/skunk, lemon, fresh apple, fresh herbs. Jesus. Definitely has RS to fill in the mid-palate and extend the finish. But there's so much mineral/phenolic/sulfide "chew" you really don't notice. Wild, killer action.

$30, screwcap, 14% alcohol listed

Yeringberg, Marsanne(67%)/Roussanne(33%), Yarra Valley 2001

Light yellow.

Delicate almond paste, pineapple and spiced apple nose. There's also a Marsanne "thickness" you can smell.

Bright lemon/pineapple lift, with a Syrah-like menthol/licorice undertone. Then almond paste and lemon on the long, minerally finish. Much fresher than you'd guess. Vibrant, in fact. Keeps changing too..

Very interesting, suave, action from a cool-climate region in Australia.

$35

Monday, December 1, 2008

Quinta do Vallado, Douro "Reserva" 2003

Purple/red.

Grilled meat/toasty oak (though suave at this point) and dark chocolate nose. Deep, with a very intense, roasted, black currant jam undertone.

Very dense/concentrated, mouth-coating impression. Huge and chewy, but has essentially no delineation of flavor. Needs the lamb stew I had last night.

Day 4 - Deep, but is now a bit flat. Roasted in the mouth too. Hot vintage, best to drink this now.

$45. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), both Tourigas, Tinta Amarela and Souzao.

Montirius, Vacqueyras "Garrigues" 2005

Red/purple.

Clay/earth, black fruit custard and sexy oak spice nose. Deep, loaded.

Round, plush entry is simultaneously framed by mineral/acid/tannin structure. Chewy, but black fruit and licorice flavors sail on. Two tracks. VGS. Subtle garrigue notes (stem inclusion?) hit late. Packed, and needs of several years of cellaring.

$25

Yalumba "MGS" Barossa Valley 2004

Purple/red.

White pepper/juniper, earth, black fruit nose.

Zesty white pepper/juniper in the mouth, too. There's a citrus zest (orange) component as well as a bit of textural "give". Not fat, but not brutal either. Very tasty, very well-made. Francophiles would like this.

Day 4 - Deeper and savory aromatically, with juniper white pepper now lifting the tail end. Really good, vibrant action.

$28. 60% Mourvedre, 22% Grenache, 18% Shiraz