Friday, July 17, 2009

Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2002

Deep, saturated red.

Vinturi - deep, sumptuous nose - smoke, herbs, hazelnut sauce, brine, tomato/bruschetta, smoked meat. Very deep/loaded. Keeps adding stuff as it airs that I can't describe. Red licorice?

Completely round and mouth-filling, packed but no weight. Acid/slight VA edge is noticeable, but welcome, adding spicy lift.
Tanzer's "3-D" texture that reminds me of certain Alban Syrahs. Which also, routinely, show no heat, despite high alcohol.

Somebody better grab this bottle soon, or I'll be sleeping through tomorrow.

$90. 14.9% alcohol.

Guigal, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000

Red, evolved rim.

Vinturi - grilled herbs, nut sauce, spicy ketchup, earth nose. Interesting.

Round, mouth-filling, with a nice edge of acidity framing everything. Seamless and unforced. Grilled/smoky herb character repeats strongly. Stems? Deep and plush spicy ketchup flavors too. As with almost every "basic" appellation bottling from Guigal, this is textbook stuff. Modern, suave winemaking, but no noticeable new oak. And cheap for what you get.

$30?

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Clos des Llops "Clos Manyetes" Priorat 2000

Red.

Vinturi - creosote, maple candy, earth and suggestions (barely) of red and black fruit on the nose.

Round. Slight textural sweetness is immediately rectified by fairly stiff acid/tannin synergy. This ain't garnacha-based. But maintains nice flavor flow through the finish. More giving as it airs.

Day 4 - Creosote, herbs and sweet/floral fruit nose. Much rounder and broader today - I'd think this was Grenache-based. Showing reasonably fine acid-driven structure, some "mineral" action too. No bitching about the cork now.

$50 on release. Uncoated cork (not the best seal). Why Barbier used uncoated corks at Mogador and LLops for so long is beyond me. Based on Carignan.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Muga "Torre Muga" Rioja 2001

Purple/red.

Vinturi - great nose - pepper, earth, hazelnut, coconut .. Very deep, integrated and subtle. Can't articulate.

Round with some initial black fruit sweetness, then fairly intense acidity kicks in, as do citrus zest/pepper/grilled meat flavors. Still strong acid/mineral/tannin chew on the finish. This rocks. Like the Monasterio, this is nowhere close to maturity. What a great contrast - RdD/Rioja. Never guess these are based on the same variety w/o prior experience.

$55 on release.

Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2001

Purple/red.

Vinturi - suave oak toast, menthol, earth, black fruit, spice nose. Light green pepper note adds lift.

Deep and saturated in the mouth, no hard edges, but no sweetness either. More than a little "Bordeaux" in style. But fruit here is more baked (not pejorative). Tannin is still fairly stiff in the finish, but this just needs several more years in bottle.

Day 2 - Ah, now this is kicking in. Deeper, with green element now seamlessly woven into black fruit custard and sumptuous spices. Very deep and long.

$35 on release. Tempranillo and Cabernet primarily, made by Mr. Sisseck.

Schloss Lieser, Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Spatlese, M-S-R 2002

Brilliant straw.

Smoke, walnut, peanut sauce and nectarine flesh on the discreet nose. There's a lurking petrol note too.

Deep (for German Riesling), fleshy, ripe nectarine flesh and pit. Strong mineral/acid structure basically slices right through the fruit/sweetness, getting the upper hand on the long, subtle, mineral chew finish. Nectarine and custard in a supporting role. Another wine you'd never get tired of drinking.


$22 on release. Stupidly cheap.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Mas des Dames "La Dame" Coteaux du Languedoc 2007

Red/purple.

Vinturi - crazy S. France nose - green herbs (oregano), game (brett? not at all clear), shoe polish/tar, pepper, lavender, raspberry coulis. Ridiculously complex and vivid for something so cheap.

Middle-weight, with creamy depth framed by strong acidity. Intensely flavored and structured, a bit like Priorat. No easy sweetness. This will benefit from 4-5 years of additional bottle age.

Day 5 - Still vibrant/vivid, just deeper. Really stupid. Should be a glass pour at any serious restaurant.

$15. 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah. Opened yesterday. Twin top technical cork.