Saturday, September 22, 2007

John Duval Wines, Plexus, Barossa Valley, 2004

Hazy purple/red.

Spicy fig, date, oak spices, slightly gamey on the nose. Quite deep and integrated.

Fleshy and giving in the mouth, with nice sweetness. Grainy tannin provides structural support. This had more flavor complexity when opened yesterday. Today the plum and blackberry action is in the background.


49% Shiraz, 27% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre


$40

Contino, Gran Reserva Rioja 1996

Deep red.

Great, melded nose - woodsmoke, grilled nuts, pepper, strawberry/cherry, clay/earth ...

Cherry preserves, pepper, clay/earth in the mouth. Middle-weight impact, with noticeable acid-driven tannin that doesn't derail flavor-flow. Minerally finish lightly coats the teeth, front to back.

This rocks.

Opened yesterday.


$60

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Saxum, Heart Stone Vyd, Paso Robles 2004

Deep red/purple.

Nose is tough to pin down - fresh earth, oak nuts, red and black fruit liqueur - smells a bit like port.

Sweet initial impression carries all the way thru to finish without a hiccup. Much more textural interest in the mouth than flavor action. Mineral/stony chew marks the kirsch(?) finish.

I find nothing particularly interesting here. Maybe air time will help.


Day 4 - Roasted oak on the nose and in the mouth, with cran/cherry jam flavor.

60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache


$45

Robert Foley, Petite Sirah, Napa Valley 2004

Opaque purple.

Great, fresh, deep, blue and black fruit, fresh earth nose with sexy oak backing it all up. Aussie-esque.

Incredibly round and mouthfilling for Petite, initially, then tannin kicks in, and they are a bit abrasive at present. Fruit is all about blackberry pie-filling. Long, despite tannin, which is actually well-mannered for a Petite this concentrated.


Day 4 - Absolutely black. Flamboyant nose - coconut, oak spice, pepper, fresh earth and blackberry coulis.
Fat in the mouth now, at least initially. Then slightly aggressive tannin kicks in, as does a bit of heat. A wild thing.

14.5% alcohol on label.

$75

Monday, September 17, 2007

Brewer-Clifton, Chardonnay, Seasmoke, Santa Rita Hills 2005

Very pale yelow.

Subtle, refined nose of lightly baked apple, light sulfides, mineral, pear skin and a lifted note that reminds me of high-class German Riesling. This keeps changing in the glass. Lemon, fresh herbs and face powder now.

Middle-weight entry, then a surge of textural sweetness and a bit of alcohol that blurs mid-palate a bit. But this doesn't actually seem hot in the mouth. Mineral chew throughout, all still refined and fairly tightly knit.

I have no idea where this is headed. 16.4% alcohol barely shows, but I wonder if the aromatic complexity will ever migrate into the mouth.


$57

Saturday, September 15, 2007

Chateau de Fonsalette, Cotes-du-Rhone, Syrah 1993

Deep red, rust rim.

Earth, smoke, grilled herbs (was wilted greens when opened 2 hours ago), candied cherry/black fruit and brick aromas. Smells a bit like old Bordeaux, but has many other things going on too. Getting cinnamon now ...

Plush entry, then grainy, slightly coarse tannin makes an appearance. Wilted greens, bacon and a blood/iron note. Still chewy, hitting the front teeth.

1993 was a terrible vintage in the Rhone - never know it from this (my last) bottle. Stupidly good.

$30?

Sea Smoke, Pinot Noir, "Southing", Santa Rita Hills 2005

Bright red.

Bright red cherry/cranberry, floral, citrus, meal and suave oak spice aromas.

Intense, spicy red fruit entry - very much a racy middle-weight. Shows a touch of heat (14.7%). Acidity keeps flavors under wraps right now, but I'm sure this will expand in the mouth with cellar time. Very classy, perfumed stuff.

Day 4 - Additional fruit depth today, along with a suggestion of strawberry coulis. Alcohol still intrudes on the back end.
I'd guess this will integrate with another 3-5 years in the bottle.



$65

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2004

Light yellow.

Hints of pear, apple and meal on the nose.

Deep, sweet textural impression that is buffered simultaneously by mineral/acid chew.Hard to figure out what the flavors are - straw, smoky, unripe pear? The main focus is the textural impression of glycerin and acid/rock chew that doesn't seem to end.

This must be all, or mostly, Marsanne.

$27

Vinos Sin Ley, G-5 Garnacha, Puerta Bonita 2005 (Vinos de Madrid)

Deep red.

Reticent nose of raspberry/cherry liqueur and a loam/soil character.

Sweet textural impression, with raspberry/cherry front and center allied with a minerally structure that reminds me of stuff from Templeton Gap/Westside Paso Robles. No real complexity here, but it's very tasty, with very good length of flavor.

Synthetic cork (2-3 year death sentence).

$15

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Tardieu-Laurent, Rasteau, V.V., 2000

Purple/red.

Tarry oak spices, cola, black raspberry, garrigue and slightly medicinal aromas.

Deep and plush, initially, in the mouth. Broad and deeply flavored, with major structure (teeth-coating tannin) arriving late.

Not sure where this is headed - more giving fruit a couple of years ago?

$30

Noellat, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru, "Les Beaux Monts" 1999

Red.

Nuts, grilled herbs and a hint of citrus on the nose.

Vibrant, lifted citrus blossom/zest in the mouth. Light bodied, but loaded. Slight note of iron. Acid-driven structure hits sides of the teeth. This was actually opened yesterday - seems far fresher today.

A beauty.

$40

Feudi di San Gregorio, Piano di Monte Vergine, Taurasi 1999

Opaque purple/red.

Charry, embers, sawn redwood nose. I don't think this is entirely from new oak. Idiosyncratic, but very deep.

Earthy, spicy, woodfire character repeats, front and center, in the mouth. Has great breadth and flavor impact. There's a primal black fruit aspect that I can't come close to identifying. Long, chewy finish. Tannin has an edgy quality that will be off-putting to many in this day and age.

Generally speaking, this is a wake-up call to New World, easy drinking folks. They will want to hate this, but there is simply too much going on not to love the stuff.

All Aglianico, a variety to be reckoned with.

$60