Friday, December 28, 2012

Tikves "Barovo Vyd" Macedonia 2010

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday - deep nose - earyh/hazelnut, dried strawberry, blueberry.

Round entry, plush initially then significant acid/tannin constriction that hones mid-palte through the finish. Excellent concentration. PFG and a reminder of how much potential we are still not aware of...


25$ 50% Vranec, 50% Kratosija (? and very cool = potential)

Talbot, St. Julien 1986

Deep red center, slight rust rim.

Mellow, great, integrated nose - menthol, grilled meat/pepper steak, black currant and other "stuff"..

Round suave and mouth-filling - at its peak. Still has excellent mid-palate flesh and flavor. Beautiful, complex wine. This certainly demonstrates why cellaring pays dividends with wines worthy of it. Just like friends or lovers ;)


$75/magnum (as this was) on release?  Courtesy of Tony Vickers  - a very generous friend.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2004

Opaque, saturated red.

Extremely sexy nose of toasted hazelnut, wilted herbs and black fruit.

Round, delineated middle-weight in the mouth - really beautiful textural dimension that is both plush and packed with acid/tannin structural backbone. Killer. Loaded. Best over what? The next 20 years? Whatever. Just stupid and a reference point for people in the industry like me. Balanced and loaded in every department.


$75.    100% Tempranillo.

Saturday, December 8, 2012

Westerly "Cote Blonde" Happy Canyon, Santa Barbara 2008

Deep red.

Middleweight nose of menthol, tapenade, smoke, light citrus and spice.

Round and mouth-filling, with an incremental acid edge cutting through. Very enjoyable, but lacks density/depth.


$35.   From Feast in Tucson. 87% Syrah, 13% Viognier

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Colpetrone, Sagrantino, Montefalco 2007

Deep red.

Opened yesterday - smoke, wilted herbs, ash, black cherry nose.

Intense - loaded to the front of the mouth. Flavors mirroring nose except for herb component. Significant acid/tannin synergy builds and ultimately shuts down the front teeth. Flavors flow through structural impediments though. Interesting and built for years in the cellar.


$30. 100% Sagrantino.

Henschke "Keyneton Euphonium" Barossa 2009

Purple/red.

Vinturi - moderate intensity nose shows nice depth - fig, black raspberry, earth/toasted nut and fresh herb aromas. Integrated.

Round with beautiful textural sweetness well-buffered by sneaky acidity. Sneaky length too. The kind of wine that grows on you. Really nicely done and should drink well for several more years.

$40.   61% Shiraz, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Sans Liege "Sancha" Marsanne, Derby Vyd., Paso Robles 2010

Light yellow.

Slightly chilled. Nose of ripe pear, lemon flesh and quince.

Round and completely mouth-filling. Great density without being heavy and shows textural sweetness buffered beautifully by mineral/tannic chew. Quince and pear flavor action. RFG. Mineral chew really coats the front teeth. Buying more of this.

$38   from Feast in Tucson.

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Tardieu-Laurent, Cote Rotie 2003

Deep red.

Vinturi - sumptuous nose - savory smoked meat/bacon, grilled and wilted herbs and root veg. Smells like Caldo Verde.

Broad and fairly dense in the mouth. Excellent mid-palate flesh, but does lack a bit of lift. Very hot vintage.
Nice smoked meat flavor follow through in the finish. Grainy tannin covers the mouth. Not sure where this is headed though.. Find some good duck and drink this thing.

$60   100% Syrah (I think)

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Arnoux "Vieux Clocher" Vacqueyras 2009

Deep red.

Expressive nose - iron/blood/grilled herbs/pepper steak/black cherry.

Round and mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness. Excellent, packed black cherry, herb and spice mid-palate flavors. This is loaded. Spicy, tannic finish is slightly rustic, but honest. Real, gutsy wine here. No sculpting/BS.

$22.

Niepoort "Docil" Loureiro, Vinho Verde 2011

Pale straw.

Fresh, ripe nose of peach, apricot and a hint of fresh herb.

Bright and minerally in the mouth - flavors of ripe apple, lemon zest and ripe peach - as odd as that amalgam might seem. Really acid-driven and yet has a textural sweetness too. This is killer action at a ridiculous price.

$14    Loureiro is an esoteric Portuguese white variety...

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Chateau Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux) 2008


Saturated purple red.

Sexy nose of woodsmoke, embers, blue and black fruits and clay/earth.

Round and slightly grainy tannic entry. Densely packed, but not overbearing. Manages to show earth/fruit/oak flavors start to finish. Significant tannin kicks in on the finish but not kill the deal. Parker gave this a 98 - not sure it's that good - but it's RFG all the same. Best from 2017 on I'd guess.


$75.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Venica "Ronco del Cerro" Sauvignon, Collio 2010

Light yellow.

Musky herb, melon and slightly peppery nose. A bit dull.

Intense, pungent fresh herb, lemon flavors are lifted, fresh. Quite lifted in the mouth, vibrant. Long lemon/herb/pepper finish includes mineral chew. PFG


$28

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Gritsch, Gruner Veltliner, Singerriedel, Federspiel 2009

Yellow.Some residual CO2.

Nose of lentil, pepper, poached pear and lemon zest. Smells far deeper than any federspiel I've had before.

Ditto in the mouth - broad and deep with a nice citrus/pepper lift that slices through. Citrus and pepper on the long, lively, finish. Light citric mineral chew on the the front teeth. Atypically powerful? Probably, but it's PFG all the same.



$23. Tin-lined screwcap.

Monday, April 23, 2012

Huet "Le Mont" Vouvray Sec 2010

Light yellow.

Opened yesterday. Nose of fresh pineapple, light marzipan, poached pear and a floral note. Interesting.

Intense pear, Meyer lemon, mineral/talc/powdered stone flavors include a sweet peach nuance. Crazy cool. Extremely vibrant, intense, acid-driven character clamps down on the front teeth. This is strikingly lean, complex, stony stuff. RFG and maybe better tonight because it's had a day of air-time.

$30. Dry Chenin Blanc.

Raul Perez "Vico" Bierzo 2008

Red/purple.

Vinturi - earth/pepper/truffle/sexy oak spice/grilled meat. This does, in fact, show a light citrus note as well... More bass than the El Brozal though. Also extremely attractive..

Round and densely packed, with some textural sweetness. A bit simpler than El Brozal in the mouth, showing potato/earth/spice flavors and significant acid-driven structure. Interestingly, this too finishes with citric chew on the front teeth. Huge bang for the buck with both of these Spanish wines.


$30. 100% Mencia

El Indiano "El Brozal" Rioja 2009

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - fabulous nose - sumptuous, low-toned notes of earth/hazelnut/savory meat/blackberry coulis juxtaposed with citrus zest/blossom treble lift. RFG.

Round, loaded and seamless with a light grainy tannic character. Reminds me of something from Pax/Donelan in its palate impression. Vibrant citrus/pepper lift ultimately wins out in the mouth. Considerable acid/tannin synergy hits the front teeth but does not kill flavor flow.. This is killer and should age extremely well. Buying more if I can nab it.

$40. 80% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 10% Garnacha.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Saint-Damien "Les Souteyrades" Gigondas 2007

Deep red.

Vinturi - deep nose of fig paste, earth, hazelnut, chocolate and (oak?) spice. Shows some alcohol lift.

Quite deep in the mouth, but does show some alcohol almost immediately that interrupts flavor flow. In fact, this comes across as a middleweight, thanks to alcohol/acid/tannin synergy. Hopefully more expressive/integrated tomorrow.


$65.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Exopto, Rioja 2005

Saturated purple/black.

Vinturi - imploded black fruit (dried fig, blackberry, black raspberry), earth and sexy oak spice notes on the nose. Black raspberry and hazelnut emerge, slowly, with air.

Intense, saturated palate-impression, but comes across as quite refined. Seamless entry to finish flavor action as is the structural profile. Suave winemaking.. Loaded and still very young. I 'd guess this will drink well in 6-7 more years and last for many more.


$65. 60% Graciano, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Coulon "Boisrenard" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998

Dull red, brick rim.

Vinturi - cherry liqueur, dried herbs, grilled meat, hazelnut nose. Integrated.

Initially shows some roundness and huge cherry liqueur mid-palate flesh. Significant palate constriction appears in the finish, coating the side teeth in chew. Some celery/veg too. This stuff seems to need several more years in the bottle to get "there". Or some bacon. Interesting.


$50 on release.

Bastide Blanche "Estagnol" Bandol 2003

Deep red.

Vinturi - another integrated, but wild, nose - blood/iron, allspice, nutmeg, blackberry/peach cobbler, clay/earth. WTF?

Round and densely packed. Slowly reveals major palate-pixel density that builds, coating side teeth in tannic chew. Not exactly fresh, but not cooked either. Serious, loaded wine from a producer I love. Needs something dead. Raw or rare.


$25. As always, a stupid deal. Based on Mourvedre, may be 100%. Not sure though.

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Valdicava, Brunello di Montalcino 2004

Very deep, saturated red.

Vinturi - very deep, low-toned nose - cherry coulis/liqueur, toasted hazelnut, fresh earth with a spice "lift". A bit of iron/game too...

Lean, intense entry with cherry, spice, leather and iron flavors leading. Has enough mid-palate flesh to ward off a massive wall of tannin/acid synergy that hammers the front teeth. Extremely concentrated. Continues to improve with additional airtime. Wild stuff. We'll see what it's like tomorrow..

Day 2 - charcoal, cherry coulis, earth and spice nose. Iron a subtle background note now. Seems a bit more vibrant today. On the nose anyway - palate has lost a step. Imagine this will benefit from cellar time, but not exactly a sure bet..

$100.

Donelan "Cuvee Christine" Syrah, North Coast (CA) 2009

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday. Nose of earth/olive/fig/mole/blackberry coulis/citrus zest/pepper/wilted herb. Deep and very interesting.

Round and mouth-filling. Saturated palate-pixel impression, as usual, but more refined tannin. Really follows through with smoky black fruit, licorice and earth/citrus/pepper flavors. Long finish features citrus/pepper interplay. Dense and lively, with significant acid/tannin synergy hitting the front teeth. Best over the next 8-10 years I'd think.


$45. Donelan is the new name for the Pax wines of old.

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Chateau de Trinquevedel, Tavel (Rose') 2010

Vibrant pink/red.

Musky spiced strawberry/cranberry/grapefruit nose shows a bit of herb action too. Lively, fresh.

Really spicy, initially "sweet" red fruit flavors in the mouth, with an attractive, aggressive, stem "chew" allied with solid acidity. Really lifted/perfumed.. Finishes decidedly dry, with mineral and tannin chew coating the front teeth. Red raspberry, herb and mineral flavors run long. This is killer rose' from a very consistent producer. My first bottle was at Nonni's in Tucson years ago.


$17.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Gritsch, Gruner Veltliner, Singerriedel Vyd., Federspiel 2009

Yellow. Shows residual CO2.

Nose of poached pear/peach, lentil, pepper.

Seems atypically powerful and deep for a federspiel. Really loaded with peach and pepper flavors. Great persistence - RFG. Bass and treble "interplay"..


$22. Tin-lined screwcap.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du Pape 2000

Deep, dull red. Brick rim.

Vinturi - deep, loaded nose of grilled meat, smoke, grilled herbs. Cherry and ketchup in background. Could be confused with a ripe vintage Hermitage.

Round, sweet (texturally) and a bit oxidative.. Unfortunate. I assume an off bottle. But possibly better tomorrow. You never know.

Day 3 - Great sense of textural sweetness and density now without the oxidative aspect. Odd, but I've seen this occasionally with other wines. Still reminds me as much of the northern Rhone as anything else...


$50 on release

Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Dull red, brick rim.

Vinturi - integrated, subtle nose of roasted nut, smoke, cherry liqueur, spicy ketchup and wilted herbs.

Round, mouth-filling and essentially at peak. Just an edge of acid/tannin synergy to frame luscious red cherry coulis, spice and herb flavors. Might improve slightly with another 2-3 years in bottle, but I'd start drinking this now..


$50 on release.