Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Paitin "Serra" Barbaresco 2007

Light ruby/garnet.

Opened 3 days ago - nose is still great - roasted hazelnut/almond, cherry jam, dried rose, leather...

Intense entry is simultaneously plush and rigid, thanks to great fruit concentration and serious acid/tannin synergy. Red cherry and spice flavors ride through it all. The real deal (and approachable now). Buy it and drink over the next 6-8 years.


$25. Stupid cheap.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Domaine du Mas Blanc "Clos du Moulin" Collioure 2007

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday - wild nose - acrylic paint (daughter Claire's contribution), cinnamon stick, salt water taffy, black olive, dark chocolate, grilled meat, prune, blackberry, A1 steak sauce... Incredibly complex. Obviously. And smells "dense" too. Loaded.

Round and mouth-filling with crazy cinnamon stick flavor immediately taking over and adding "edge". Much less precise in the mouth, but has real weight and density without being ponderous. This has gained in depth considerably over the last couple of years, and I wouldn't be surprised to see it continue to improve for 4-5 more years and drink well for many more after that.


$28. A blend based on Mourvedre I believe. The south of France makes some of the world's most interesting, affordable wines.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah, Sonoma Coast 2006

Opaque purple/black.

Vinturi - Loaded, deep nose of menthol, melted licorice, kalamata olive, fig paste, toasted oak and brine.

Round, extremely deep and quite suave in the mouth. Absolutely loaded flavor pixel count. Grainy tannin suffuse palate. Saline character repeats in the mouth. Creamy, dense entry and mid-palate. This is FK and bound to improve with a couple more years in bottle.


$50. This is my favorite bottling of CA Syrah. Need to get some of the newer versions from Donelan...

Monday, September 26, 2011

Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Red with brick rim.

Opened yesterday - integrated, complex nose - iron, garrigue, earth/hazelnut, cherry liqueur.

Round, mouth-filling with great textural sweetness. Shows cherry coulis, grilled/dried herb and brazil nut flavors. Significant, sneaky, acid/tannin chew creeps up on the front teeth keeping textural generosity in check.. This is not a monster wine at all, but delivers considerable pleasure on every front. Beautiful stuff and RFG.


$50 on release. 2000 was a great year for Grenache in the southern Rhone and that is very obvious here.

Pax "Obsidian" Knights Valley 2003

Opaque red.

Opened yesterday - deep Kalamata olive, melted black licorice, grilled meat, grilled herb, dried fig nose. Deep and saucy.

Low-toned palate impression, huge depth in the mid-palate is reined in a bit by seemingly strongish acidity. Not nearly as expressive in the mouth, but still quite a mouthful. It will be interesting to see if this gains the flavor complexity promised by the nose. But I think most folks won't quibble on this point.


$60. 100% Syrah.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux 2006

Deep red.

Opened yesterday - expressive nose of embers, campfire, blackberry, black raspberry and fresh earth.

Round, with very nice mid-palate coverage. In fact, acid/tannin synergy shows quite late, but makes up for lost time in the finish. Acid-driven constriction shuts down the front of the mouth. Just needs a few more years in the cellar (4-6?).


$35.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Torbreck "Run Rig" Barossa Valley 1999

Deep red.

Vinturi - very attractive, refined nose - fig, black raspberry, mole, earth/corn, oak spice and grilled meat.

Intense, but not at all heavy. Flavors of red fruit, game/sausage/bacon, leather and spice are driven by relatively strong acidity. Tannin is moderate and fine. Subtle, persistent length. Classy, delineated action. Exactly what many of us think Barossa can't do..
RFG.

$90 on release. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier.

Bastide Blanche "Fontaneou" Bandol 2007

Very deep red.

Opened yesterday - expressive nose - clay/earth, licorice, blackberry and fragrant wood spices.

Intense, but not as dense as some other vintages. Not necessarily a bad thing. Really nice mid-palate flesh and flavor expression. Tasting extremely well already, but it's hard to believe this won't benefit from 5-8 more years in the bottle..


$27. 100% Mourvedre, I think.

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Rocca delle Macie, Riserva, Chianti Classico 2006

Red.

Opened yesterday - bright, lifted aromas of red cherry, earth, shoe polish and licorice. Very attractive.

Intense middleweight with enough textural "give" to keep it from being austere. Racy finishing acidity. Nimble and expressive.
Beautiful stuff and a great antidote for "thick" wines.. Variety = spice of life.


$25.

Macchiole "Paleo" Bolgheri 2001

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - great nose - embers/camp fire/smoky oak/earth/cinnamon/licorice/fig/black cherry.

Intense entry. Packed middle-weight, but acid/tannin synergy really clamps down on flavor expression. Nowhere near maturity. Nose far better than a bottle several years ago though. Give this 5+ years in the cellar.



$50 on release. 100% Cabernet Franc.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Cass "Rockin' One" Paso Robles 2008

Light yellow.

Deep bass aromas - corn tortilla, peach & spice. PFG.

Deep, loaded palate impression leavened beautifully by sneaky acidity and some mineral/phenolic (sulfide?) action that hones the mid-palate and finish. Side-teeth chew. RFG.


$35? Gift from Colin Waite.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Albino Rocca "Brich Ronchi" Barbaresco 1999

Red, rust rim.

Vinturi - sexy cherry jam, woodsmoke/oak spice, roasted herb and earth aromas. Savory.

Nice breadth in the mouth, particularly for Nebbiolo. Manages to have a plush mid-palate as well as serious acid/tannin spine. Flavors express nicely. Finishing note of iron. Huge structure becomes apparent with extended air time. Beautiful wine in need of several more years of bottle-age, though it drinks reasonably well now...



$50 on release.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Andrew Will, Ciel du Cheval Vyd., Red Mountain 2007

Red/purple.

Opened yesterday. Deep oozer of a nose - Andes mint, fresh earth and a massive pool of black cherry compote. Better than yesterday - seemed a bit flat then.

Round and packed, seamless, completely mouth-filling, plush. Flavors echoing nose express quite well. Not wildly complex yet, but I don't think many will quibble. Structure is in the background, but acidity and fine tannin quietly coat the teeth in refined chew. This really didn't do much for me yesterday, but showing very well now. Give it some air..


$55. 45% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Archery Summit "Arcus Estate" Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2006

Red.

Opened yesterday. Subtle, lusty nose of underbrush, fresh herbs, red cherry coulis and sexy oak spices.

Round, sumptuous entry with significant acidity immediately keeping one foot on the floor. Flavor (red cherry, spice, underbrush) and structure running on two tracks. Acid/tannin synergy really clamps down on the side teeth, but flavors sail on. RFG. This would be an interesting ringer in a Burgundy tasting. Long, subtle mineral/chew finish.


$60? Gift from the Padres

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Red.

Vinturi - low-key nose - attractive woodsy/earth/spice action with pepper and red cherry/raspberry underneath. Harmonious.

Round with considerable textural sweetness, particularly for Beaucastel. Manages to be packed with flavor and quite structured
without being ponderous or rustic. Relatively light touch, which I now think of as typical for these guys. Reminds me a bit of the Grange des Peres in this sense. Tannin builds as the wine sits, finishing with Mourvedre's iron notes. Nowhere near maturity, but drinking well already. Beautiful stuff.


$55? Not sure what the blend is in this vintage, but Beaucastel typically uses more Mourvedre than most CdP producers.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Vega Sicilia "Unico" Ribera del Duero 1986

Deep red.

Fragrant, sexy, spicebox, grilled meat, citrus, fruitcake nose.

Intensely flavored, lively middle-weight. Acid-driven with mild tannin. No sign that it is near its peak. It is quite difficult to articulate how great some of these wines are. They just are.



$Lots ? Courtesy of Mike Irwin on his 71st birthday. Like an incredible old Bordeaux on the nose - crazy, integrated, effortless complexity.

Termanthia, Toro 2003

Saturated purple.

Nose of spice box, brooding black fruit (dried fig, black raspberry), wax and licorice.

Extremely dense, but not heavy. Refined tannin builds with air time. Not yet complex in the mouth, but loaded to the hilt and in need of many years in a good cellar. The juxtaposition of incredible concentration and refinement is remarkable..



$150. 100% ungrafted, old vine Tempranillo.

Lopez-Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Reserva, Rioja 1993

Light red.

Herbs and fragrant wood spices on the nose as well as some red fruit. Light, but attractive.

Lively, light palate impression. Citrus and herb flavors. Acid-driven. Very nice stuff.


$?

Climens, Barsac 1988

Yellow/light gold.

Roasted peach/nectarine, orange marmalade, burnt sugar nose. Great.

Deep, balanced, fresh. Strong acidity cuts through considerable sweetness beautifully. Long, roasted botrytis finish suffuses the palate. FK.


$? Courtesy of Tony Vickers.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Grange des Peres, Vin de Pays de l'Herault 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - great, subtle nose of woodsmoke, herbs, grilled red fruit, fresh earth. Sumptuous.

Round with some textural sweetness immediately buffered by strongish acidity and moderate tannin. Really expressive in the mouth too. Tanzer's "inner-mouth" action. Beautifully refined, no fat. Taut. RFG. Long, subtle finish.


$60? Gift from Mr. Milic @ FnB in Scottsdale. The proprietor here did stints with Francois Coche-Dury and Chave if I'm not mistaken. Pretty good mentors... Not sure of the blend, but I think it is Syrah and maybe some Cabernet? Whatever. It rocks.

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Tensley, Syrah, Tierra Alta Vyd., Santa Barbara County 2006

Red.

Vinturi - muted nose - licorice, wood spices, fig, steak sauce.

Round and mouth-filling with an unexpected sweetness. Definitely seems to have residual sugar and it doesn't fit in well with strong underlying acidity. Unfortunate, as I've enjoyed other Tensley bottlings quite a bit. Probably just a tough vintage/weird lot problem..


$22 from Time Market in Tucson.

Mas Carlot "Les Enfants Terribles" Costieres de Nimes 2005

Deep red.

Vinturi - attractive nose of wood spices, licorice, iron, earth and black fruit.

Round, initially, but still shows an acid (VA?)/Brett edge that gives this a dis-jointed feel and really clamps down in the finish. Flavors veer toward iron/blood. Needs considerable air, say decanting 24 hours in advance.. This bottling was impossible to enjoy when released due to a Brett bloom in the bottle (CO2 and stink). Still edgy, but far better now.


$12. Mourvedre and Syrah

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Tardieu-Laurent, St. Joseph "Vieilles Vignes" 2003

Deep red.

Opened yesterday. Utterly sexy/savory nose of wood smoke/spices, smoked meat, molasses, grilled herbs and black fruit.

Round and mouth-filling with simultaneous acid-driven structure framing and focusing palate impression. Really loaded and expressive at the same time. And structured to the hilt - acid/tannin constriction really shuts down the mouth in the finish - though smoked meat, herb flavors manage to ride through. RFG, but I'd be careful about cellaring this more than another 3-5 years. Tardieu-Laurent did a very good job in the very hot 2003 vintage. Lots of very highly rated 2003 wines from the northern Rhone seem dead/flat to me, albeit wildly concentrated.


$35. 100% Syrah

Peyre Rose "Clos Des Cistes" Coteaux du Languedoc 2003

Deep red.

Opened yesterday. Low-toned nose of wood spices, Bordeaux-ish embers, baked black raspberry, dried herbs and A-1 steak sauce. Definitely from a warm vintage.

Round and plush, particularly for this producer. Deep and packed, but not really showing much complexity. Grainy tannin cuts into the finish. But this may well be better 3-4 days from now..


$40? Gift from Mr. Bo Stock. Peyre Rose raises its Syrah in stainless steel, though this seems to show barrel influence. This wine has some Grenache in it, I think. The other bottling "Leone" includes some Mourvedre.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Hirtzberger "Honivogl" Gruner Veltliner, Wachau (Austria) 2004

Yellow/gold.

Deep, rich, bass nose of lentil, mint, citrus marmalade with a spicy/peppery undertone.

Really fills the mouth, and then expands (if that is possible) with flavors that mirror the nose. The spicy/peppery quality adds real lift and vibrancy. Deep lentil, citrus and spice action flows into a ridiculously long finish. This stuff just keeps kicking out flavor.. Great idiosyncratic white wine, as usual. I love this stuff.


$45. Do yourself a favor - get a bottle or two of GV. There are inexpensive versions ($12-20) that are incredibly refreshing.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Caleo "Calea" Fiano, Sicilia 2010

Pale yellow.

Aromas of white peach, pear, nut skin and bit of citrus. Fresh, bright.

Round with nice flesh. Nice acidity lifts incrementally. Really nice balance of fruit and acid. Great Summer action.


$18. A bottling made by/for the importer (Polaner. Very interesting guy/company). Fiano is an ancient variety from the Campania region of Italy. Synthetic cork. Drink up.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Capafons-Osso "Mas de Masos" Priorat 2000

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - great nose of sexy oak spices, crushed blackberry, earth and shoe polish.

Intense, linear feel in the mouth, with a slight textural sweetness. Blackberry and earth flavors ride through a rather pent-up mid-palate. Grainy, acid/tannin constriction shuts down the front teeth in the finish. This needs several more years in the cellar, but is now far more giving than my last bottle a few years ago. I believe this is a Carignan dominant blend (and it shows).

$35 on release

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Chateau Puech-Haut "Prestige" Coteaux du Languedoc 2009

Purple/red.

Vinturi - fragrant, deep nose - spicy fig, balsam, earth/loam, black cherry, wilted greens, peppermint and even some of Schildknecht's "machine oil". Sumptuous, savory.

Round, dense and suave in the mouth with grainy acid/tannin synergy slowly constricting the front teeth. Nice flavor expression throughout. Extremely well-crafted, nuanced wine. I wouldn't be at all surprised if this cellared well for 8-10 years or more.


$17. Crazy. Not sure of the blend, but I'd guess there's quite a bit of Syrah.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Lamoreaux Landing, Cabernet Franc, New York 2005

Red with some evolution.

Vinturi - Fragrant tar, red cherry, earth and wood spice nose. Has me thinking RFG Nebbiolo. But some creamy, sexy, vanilla notes creep in.

Lean, with red fruit and spice flavors. Nice follow through into the finish. Best on the nose. I love better Cabernet Francs from the Finger Lakes (like this one) - lean, crisp and completely different from almost everything produced on the West Coast.


$? Gift from John and Jenny Dolak.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Laffont "Hecate" Madiran 2006

Opaque purple.

Vinturi - very deep nose of blackberry sauce, damp earth, oak spice and licorice. More lifted than it sounds.

Shows intense, linear flavors of blackest of black fruit, gauze, bacon and tar. Acid-driven tannin really coats all the teeth in the finish. Not brutal, however. Loaded & killer, but needs many years to express in the mouth - say 10-15.


$30. 100% Tannat, I think.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Man O' War "Ironclad" Waiheke Island (NZ) 2008

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - expressive, interesting nose - licorice, camphor/eucalyptus, black fruit, white pepper. I'd guess this to be cool-climate Syrah.. Suave, nutty oak too.

Intensely flavored in the mouth with white pepper front and center and black fruit in the background. Menthol sneaks in late. Acid-driven tannin constricts front and side teeth. No fat. Love to see this in 4-6 years. Very interesting stuff. Especially at this price.

This held up very well in the bottle over a three day period.

$25 52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 105.% Malbec, 9.1% Petit Verdot, 1.4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% listed alcohol. Tin-lined screwcap.

Thibault Liger-Belair "Les Rouchaux" Moulin a Vent 2009

Vibrant red/purple.

Vinturi - great, lifted, fresh nose of crushed blackberry/raspberry, fresh earth and a hint of pepper. Killer.

Vibrant in the mouth as well, with excellent depth. Acid-driven structure adds Tanzer's "thrust" to peppery black fruit flavors. Great flavor intensity without weight. Mineral chew coats front teeth. FK. Knockout Beaujolais.


$30

Monday, January 17, 2011

Janasse, Chateauneuf du Pape 2007

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday. Deep nose of clay/earth, fig/blackberry/black raspberry compote and licorice. Manages just enough lift thanks to a slight mint nuance.

Round and dense in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol, but nothing crazy. Plush mid-palate is loaded with black raspberry coulis and earth flavors. Interesting - fruit and structure all loaded to the front of the mouth. Extremely ripe and packed, but is just shy of too much. PFG.


$35

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Berthoumieu "Vitis MCM" Madiran 2007

Purple/red.

Opened yesterday. Nose of intense, lifted, black raspberry confection (contradiction?), fresh earth and oak spice/resin. An attractive medicinal quality too.

Nice volume in the mouth with significant acid/tannin synergy. No fat here, but not at all brutal either. Definitely center-packed with blackest of black fruit flavors. Needs several more years in the bottle to express itself fully.. Very impressive stuff.


$35 100% Tannat from a vineyard planted in 1900. 80% new oak.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Terlato & Chapoutier, Shiraz-Viognier, Victoria 2008

Purple/red.

Vinturi - fragrant smoke/tar, blackberry, earth and dried mango nose.

Shows a bit of textural sweetness and a grainy/saline impression. No fat here, but impressive depth of center-packed black fruit and spice. Deceptive length. Classy, flavorful action. Cheap too.


$16

Mogador, Priorat 2001

Deep red/purple.

Opened yesterday - creosote/cocoa powder/black cherry jam/herb nose.

Round with nice textural sweetness which is immediately challenged by acid/tannin synergy. Red and black cherry and creosote flavors run throughout. Densely packed middle-weight. Needs several more years to unwind fully.


$50