Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Clarendon Hills, Roma's, Grenache 2002

Red/purple.

Black raspberry and mint aromas with a saline undertone. Deep but understated, reaching the higher levels on the aromatic orgasmatron scale.

Deep, sweet and saline in the mouth. Huge pools of raspberry coulis and saline action in the mouth. Stiff acid and saline chew keeps it all in check.

? Not sure how to comment. Not complex in the usual meaning of the word, but texturally beyond comprehension. Not something I'm generally a fan of. But..

Day 3 - Similar, deep, Chambord-like nose, with salinity still evident. Killer. Then round, deep and packed/suave in the mouth, with structural elements hitting later and a bit (and only a bit) lighter. This will age very well. Not so sure about the 2001 version.

Interesting to note that Roman Bratasiuk (Clarendon Hills)
and the elder Golitzin at Quiceda Creek (WA) were/are both chemical engineers.

$80

Forgeron Cellars, Zinfandel, Columbia Valley 2004

Deep red.

Deep, but not precise, nose - maple syrup, oak spice and black fruit.

Round, sweet, creamy in the mouth. Deep, but monolithic flavors of oak spice and black fruit. Good drinking action, just lacks an extra dimension.

Day 3 - Deep, rich aromatic action. Completely plush in the mouth, packed in the mid-palate. Long and satisfying.


Gift - $30?

Sunday, July 27, 2008

Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Red/lighter rim.

Nuanced, complex nose - brown spices, garrigue, iron, a floral note, earth/savory meat, cherry jam, licorice. Seamless, no hint of alcohol.

Round, mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that is offset by acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate. Flavors lean toward garrigue and earth, with a saline edge. Structure is reasonably fine, but currently keeps fruit and additional complexity in the brig. Cherry action surfaces with air time. This should be rocking tomorrow.

Day 3 - Cherry jam and incense dominating the nose, with garrigue, spice and meat underneath. Really expressing in the mouth now - brown spices, garrigue, cherry jam and a malt character (no shit). Still mightily structured. Long, slow ride promised here.

$50

Copain, Zinfandel, Arrowhead Mountain, Sonoma Valley 2004

Deep red.

Vibrant balsa wood, spice, earth and cran/raspberry aromas. Hint of celery.

Bright and deep in the mouth, with celery adding interest to earth/spice/cranberry flavors. NIce mid-palate density and flavor flow. Acid-driven chew coats the front teeth. Long finishing flavors of balsa, citrus zest and spice.

Very interesting stylistic contrast to the Ridge Geyserville.

Day 4 - More savory on the nose now, celery gone. Intense red fruit and balsa in the mouth, no sense of weight. Reminds me of Turley's better stuff. Could drink a ton of this.

$35

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Kongsgaard, Syrah, Napa Valley 2001

Purple/red.

Deep, rich aromas of menthol, grilled meat, soy, toasted nuts.

Round with a saline/acid edge. Interesting, as these wines are, I've read, routinely 3.9-4.0 in pH. Nice sense of naturalness.
But I'm not getting anything too exciting (on the palate) at the moment. Slightly grainy tannin in the long, subtle finish.

Day 3 - Extremely deep nose - menthol, melted licorice, smoked meat. More expansive in the mouth, but similar to day 1. But there is an oozingly deep feel in the mouth, with aromatics echoing, now, in the mouth. Funny, though, I'd rather drink many other Syrahs.


$100

Marques de Casa Concha, Syrah, Peumo, Chile 2005

Deep purple.

Deep aromas - balsamic grilled meat, oak toast, blackberry and earth.

Intense, slightly saline entry. Acid dominant structure clamps down considerably on black fruit and spice flavors, but not ridiculously so. Nice purity and concentration, little complexity. This will probably improve with another 2-3 years in the bottle.

Day 3 - Some musky/coconut aromas now. But better in the mouth, though coconut emerges there too. Density is impressive, particularly for the $$.

$18

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

d'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz 2005

Opaque purple.

A deep, oozing nose - saline, medicinal/gamey, pepper, dried fig and popcorn.

Round and mouth-filling initially, then hemmed in by an acid/saline edge that coats the front teeth. Coconut also shows up, unfortunately. This, again, seems completely dis-jointed, for no reason. There is no question that the raw material is superb, but you have to question the handling.

A great contrast to the Pertinace, which is also massively structured.

Day 3 - Oak oil and nut as new aromatic contributions. Deep and plush, initially. Then acid-enhanced tannin drives pleasure out of the mouth. Who knows, maybe this will freely express at some point.

I don't get it.

$65

Pertinace, Vigneto Marcarini, Barbaresco 2004

Ruby/red.

Cherry jam, earth, brown spice, leather nose. Fresh, lifted.

Intense, vibrant, almost painful (Tanzer-ism) flavors matching the nose. Massive, acid-driven structure clenches the mid-palate, but does not kill finishing strawberry/cherry flavor. Great purity.

PFG. This should drink well for a very long time.

Day 3 - Cherry jam, hazelnut liqueur dominant aromas now. Red licorice too. Deep cherry action in the mouth, along with prune (positive). Huge teeth-coating structure, driven by strong acidity.

$45

Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2003

Pale yellow.

Toasted grain/meal/truffle/sauteed onion/caramel nose. Lemon oil underneath.

Round, dense, creamy (like creme brulee creamy, with flavors to match) in the mouth. Singular textural depth. Aubert and Kongsgaard are precise, linear - this is dipped in fat extract. Yet is not at all "flabby". This is actually quite structured - mineral/acid chew manages to uplift the tremendous flavor density. Apart from other Marcassins, I've never tasted Chardonnay like this.

Crazy.

Day 3 - Creamed corn and brine nuances added to the above aromas. Deep, luscious creme caramel/truffle flavors. Stupid length.

$95

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Clos St. Jean, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Very deep red.

Spicy cherry jam/kirsch - garrigue and earth underneath. Understated nose that nevertheless conveys power and depth. Pure.

Packed in the mouth - huge concentration for the $$. Actually ridiculous. Not particularly complex at the moment, but this benefits from very enlightened winemaking, as well as great raw material. The mid-palate is loaded, buttressed by massive structure that gets lost in the wealth of fruit riches.

Yada , yada. This is stupid for the $$.

Day 4 - Now I'm getting more clay/earth than fruit in the nose. Reminds me of Mas Blanc "Moulin" from Collioure - must have significant Mourvedre. Same absolutely packed impression in the mouth. Not the volume of a 2003, but some will like this better. I can't believe the depth here for $35.

$35

Mauro, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon 2005

Purple/red.

Deep black pudding fruit/custard, meat, earth and oak spice nose.

Huge depth in the mouth, really out-sized. Makes most neighboring Ribera del Dueros seem light-weight. But that isn't necessarily a compliment. Here, it is, as this also demonstrates reasonable complexity and fruit to burn (Tanzerism). No lack of supporting structure that also does not overwhelm. Love to see this thing in 7-9 years.

Day 2 - I was thinking I was over-enthusiastic about this last night. Not. Huge mid-palate now neutralized by serious acid/tannin synergy. Structural chew coats every tooth in the mouth.

Day 4 - Great density (still) obvious in the nose. I'm thinking this is a great value, but I'm basing that on yesteryear's cost ($30). Nevertheless, this is major league action.

Mariano Garcia's (long time Vega Sicilia winemaker) home estate. Killer - squared.

$50

Ridge, Geyserville 2005 (40th vintage)

Deep red.

Low-toned coconut and red fruit nose. Brown sugar and an exotic peach note too.

Round, but not creamy, as rather strong acidity provides structural support. Very nice mid-palate depth. All intense cranberry in the long finish, with acid-driven structure coating the front teeth in chew.

Day 4 - Ultimately, this just isn't very interesting. Like more than a few wines from Paso, well-reputed, but all about seamlessness/textural considerations = boring.

77% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah

Gift - $40?

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Artadi "Grandes Anadas" Rioja 2000

Purple/red.

Deep, pure, meaty, saucy nose. Definitely shows more oak influence than the Pagos Viejos.

Round with significant fruit sweetness in the mouth. Black raspberry, oak spice, earth and mint. Very deep, suave and long.
Significant, finely-grained tannin lightly coat the front teeth. Beautiful stuff.

Opened yesterday

Day 4 - Great aromatic integration now - savory meat, allspice, cinnamon, brown sugar, black raspberry coulis. Still has great depth in the mouth, with no excess weight, airy. Great tannin quality. Killer.

$100

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2000

Red/purple.

Very attractive, understated nose - sexy spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg), black raspberry/cherry, clay/earth, savory meat. Melded, refined, deep.

Round and with a saline edge, showing a citrus/pepper nuance in the mouth. Very much a middle-weight, getting points for class/refinement. There's a Pinot-like tang in the finish. Nice action, but this isn't as thrilling as some other vintages.

Opened yesterday.

Day 4 - I think this bottle is slightly whacked. It's shown a late note of oxidation, increasingly, from the above post till today.
I remember loving earlier bottles.


$50

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Bodegas Naia "Naiades" 2005 (Rueda, Spain)

Light yellow.

Deep, saucy lime, mineral and earth aromatics.

Intense lemon/lime zest entry. Mineral central mid-palate, lingering into a rock strewn finish. Chewy, mineral feel. Very cool action

$28

Chateau Guiraud, Premier Cru Sauternes 1996

Deep copper/gold.

Deep, roasted botrytis/marmalade nose. Caramel/custard nuance.

Thick, sweet, roasted botrytis flavors, with poached pear and caramel undertones. At this point I lose any basis for evaluation, as I'm hardly a white dessert, let alone a Sauternes, expert... This is quite deeply flavored, though not particularly precise. Huge, roasted botrytis, length. I think I could get used to a bottle of this a night.

$?, 375 mL

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Pelletier "Coccigrues" St Chinian 2005

Purple/red.

Sea-side undertone to fig, oak spice and licorice aromas.

Round and completely mouth-filling, with acid-edged structure slithering in from the corners of the mouth. Can't match the Alban for density, or fineness, for that matter, but this has personality and will get better with a few years of bottle age. Citrus/spice/mineral flavors ride long and chewy.

Day 3 - Showing considerable aldehyde/oxidized character in the finish. Showed some oxidation last night too.
Decant and drink in one go. I still think this will age reasonably well. I think this is a tank-aged wine. It often takes a few years for a wine like this to come into equilibrium.

$30

Alban "Reva" Syrah 2005 (Edna Valley)

Opaque purple.

Extremely deep nose - blood orange/pepper steak/potato skin/licorice. No heat.

Round and completely creamy in the mouth, with a slight saline character. Juniper/pepper/sweet black fruit flavors remind me immediately of western Australia Shiraz, but I've never had one as concentrated as this. Covers everything in the mouth. Structure is fine and slightly grainy. Not a huge wine in any obvious sense, except concentration.

RFG

Day 3 - Stupidly complex on the nose now - still shows citrus/pepper action, but there's a wilted greens character that gets us back to the northern Rhone. Deep, suave, self-contained. Round with some textural sweetness - crazy killer.
Well-structured without being intrusive. Nice acid-driven tannin cut.
Late aromatic note of pipe tobacco.

$75, 15.7% alcohol listed

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Bussola "TB" Amarone 1998

Deep, dull red.

Deep, saucy nose of sawdust/smoke/truffle/BBQ sauce/black cherry jam/savory meat. There's no doubt that this will absolutely packed in the mouth.

This obviously has a bit of residual sugar, but any sweetness is immediately tempered by smoky, savory, black cherry jam flavored chew. Acidity seems fairly strong, which helps support the crazy flavor depth. Actually tight and focused in the finish.
This might drink well forever - how can it die?

Day 5 - Nose now oozes flavors to come. Huge flavor impact, RS quite concealed. ... Yada, yada..

Again - how can this die?

$75 on release. Listed 16% alcohol. No heat whatsoever.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Tardieu-Laurent, St. Joseph "Vieilles Vignes" 2003

Purple/red.

This showed considerable new oak influence 30 minutes ago - now doing the smoked meat/breakfast sausage/spice/dried fig thing on the nose. Deep, but also has clarity and a salivary start button.

Round and edgy simultaneously. There's no hint of extreme ripeness here. Oak spice, licorice and bound up black fruit flavors. Major acid/tannin synergy shuts down the mid-palate. Nevertheless, black fruit and spice flavors break on through to the other side.

Day 4 - Integrated, deep nose manages also to be understated. Much easier in the mid-palate today. This really is beautiful stuff.

$35 Definitely worth buying in quantity.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Dog Ridge, Petit Verdot, McLaren Vale 2004

Purple/black.

Creosote and darkest of black fruits nose. This had a very Shiraz-like, creamy black fruit nose a couple of years ago.

Round and completely packed in the mouth. Here the saline impression has more to do with crazy concentration. Licorice, popcorn (indeed) and black fruit flavors ride through plush mid-palate. An almost mineral structure tightens the finish. This has really gotten interesting in the bottle. Not a fruit-bomb anymore.

Day 4 - Little aromatic change. I must admit, I can't believe this is Petit Verdot. But production techniques could account for this.

Aged in neutral barrels.

$25, screwcap

Craneford, Petit Verdot, Barossa Valley 2002

Deep red/purple.

Deep black fruit, garrigue, salami and nut aromas.

Round and plush (amazingly), with a slight saline edge. Very easy flow through the mid-palate. Not particularly complex in the mouth, or deep, but suave and satisfying. No overt signs of oak.

Day 4 - Hard grape candy, cinnamon new aromatic additions. Not sure why I thought this wasn't deep on day 1 - it is - quite.
Loaded with powdery tannin on the long, saline/salami finish.

$25 on release

Friday, July 4, 2008

Pax, Syrah "Kobler" (Green Valley) Russian River Valley 2006

Black/purple.

Deep, saucy nose - black fruit/Fig Newton, green chili (indeed), grilled meat and oak spice/earth. Cracked black pepper with air.

Intense, light-weight impression in the mouth - citrus(?), stem chew ... Pretty bound up at the moment. No sweetness here - serious stuff. Long citrus and green chili flavor ride along with monster structure.

Love it or leave it.

Day 3 - Licorice and graham cracker aromas over blackberry pie filling. Intense with typical, grainy, Pax concentration in the mouth. Green character subdued now. Citrus chew hits later, coating the front teeth. I look forward to drinking this over the next 6-10 years.

$60 (97% Syrah, 3% Viognier). 13.5% alcohol.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Saxum "James Berry Vineyard" Paso Robles 2005

Purple.

Complicated nose - grilled meat, truffle/sulfide, cherry jam - now this works wonders for me. Great depth.

Round, mouth-filling with only a hint of sweetness. Serious acid spine creeps up without overwhelming the flavors of deep cherry jam, oak spice and mineral chew that coats the front teeth. Alcohol is not much of a factor here. Will this get better in the bottle? Maybe.

Day 3 - Still rocks. Deep, but not at all heavy. Alcohol peaks out a bit more tonight... Funny - my first inclination is to compare this to the Pegau, not a northern Rhone.


$50 - 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Two Hands "Bad Impersonator" Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2003

Purple/red.

Deep, saucy nose - dried fig, suggestion of VA and oak spice/nut. Black raspberry jam late.

Round, saline and a bit sweet/sour (VA) in the mouth. Very deep, but also something of a freak show. Similar to a bottle I opened 2-3 years ago.

I can't enjoy this. Unfortunately living up to its name.

$35

Pegau, Chateauneuf du Pape 2004

Deep red.

Delineated, wild nose is difficult to express - blood/iron, grilled herbs, toasted nuts, savory meat, cherry jam, spices that seem to be from new oak (don't think they use any), spicy ketchup. Yes, this rocks.

Round, with a spicy/herb/tomato edge that keeps everything tight. Intense, deep and fleshy, but also simultaneously quite structured, even a bit rustic, and chewy. Huge acid/(stem) tannin structure in the finish amazingly does not kill spicy herb/tomato finish.

This needs lamb in the worst way.

Day 2 - Just ridiculous. Full-bore CdP that is hardly easy, but totally killer. Now this style is one you will absolutely NOT find anywhere else.

Day 4 - Cherry jam and truffle nose, you can smell the saucy density (Amarone-esque). Vibrant, pristine note of rosemary in the finish, which is still chewy/rustic and long. For some reason I finally remembered that Eddie Feraud (see below) and Paul Feraud (Pegau's owner) are related. Cousins, I think. And there is a similarity in the wines too.

$50

Vacheron, Sancerre 2007

Platinum.

Slightly pungent nose of fresh herbs, nut paste and "minerals". Discreet and fine. Ripe pear late.

Round, with a suggestion of sweetness made quite juicy by good acidity. Pear flavor with fresh herbs on the side. Minerally acidity frames everything, coating the front teeth. Very finely rendered. Long, chewy, mineral and herb finish.

PFG.

$30