Brewer-Clifton, Chardonnay, Seasmoke, Santa Rita Hills 2005

Very pale yelow.

Subtle, refined nose of lightly baked apple, light sulfides, mineral, pear skin and a lifted note that reminds me of high-class German Riesling. This keeps changing in the glass. Lemon, fresh herbs and face powder now.

Middle-weight entry, then a surge of textural sweetness and a bit of alcohol that blurs mid-palate a bit. But this doesn't actually seem hot in the mouth. Mineral chew throughout, all still refined and fairly tightly knit.

I have no idea where this is headed. 16.4% alcohol barely shows, but I wonder if the aromatic complexity will ever migrate into the mouth.


$57