Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Tenuta di Trinoro, "Cupole", Rosso Toscana, 1996

Deep red, evolved rim.

Great Bordeaux-ish nose - toast, herbs, hot bricks, graphite, black currant ... Doesn't smell like a second wine.

Medium-bodied, light touch. No way I'd think this was from Italy, except, possibly, the acidity. This is my last bottle. Another a year or so ago, was every bit as good. This is why people love Bordeaux, and well-done geographical extensions of it.


$25

Lesec, "Kristial", Chateauneuf du Pape, 2001

Light red.

Nuts, wilted greens, touch of oak spice(?).

Round and sweet (texture) in the mouth with nut character repeating. Red cherry liqueur, alcohol showing a bit. Intense, but light-handed. Shows the (front teeth) grip provided by stem inclusion. This needs some time to strut.



$28

Conterno-Fantino, "Sori Ginestra", Barolo, 1995

Evolved red.

Killer nose - to the extent that I can't really pin it down. Ethereal spices, cherry jam/liqueur, yet fresh ... wow.

Round and mouth-filling in a way I'm not used to seeing from Barolo or Barbaresco. Which is not to say that it lacks structure.
Cherry preserves and spice in the mouth, with acid-driven tannin constricting the sides of the mouth. There must be some sort of harmonic convergence going on tonight. Actually light-bodied, but intensely flavored. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume".

Jesus, this is good.


$45?

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Bouchard, Volnay Caillerets, "Ancienne Cuvee Carnot", 2002

Light red.

Suave, attractive nose - smoke, nuts, iron/blood nuance, ...? No real sign of fruit, though.

Light-bodied in the mouth, orange zest flavor dominating. Very lively, not complex.
Good length.

$30

Monday, August 20, 2007

Luna, Pinot Grigio, Napa County, Barrel-Fermented, 2005

Pale yellow.

Straw/grain, white grape jelly, vague citrus and a hint of oak spice on the nose.

Nice breadth of flavor in the mouth, with a textural sweetness that probably includes some RS. Not at a bit flabby/cloying, though, thanks to cleansing acidity. Actually quite powerful stuff, but deftly handled.


$18

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2003

Deep purple/red.

Deeper nose than the Pesquera, but also shows more meat, earth and oak aromas than fruit.

Deep and a bit confectionary in the mouth. This has a blackberry syrup character, similar to the Chryseia blogged earlier. Tannin hits late here too. This really takes over the mouth, as much as any Old World wine can. Ultimately a bit one-dimensional, though. And I'm not sure any significant complexity will emerge with time.


$60

Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2003

Deep red.

Earth/clay/oak spice aromas with a medicinal/meat nuance.

Broad initial palate-impression, with firm, but reasonably fine, chewy tannin hitting late. Mid-palate is quite plush for a Pesquera. Little obvious fruit character, but this is definitely deep. Needs a couple more years in the bottle.

$28

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Prats & Symington, "Chryseia", Douro (Portugal), 2004

Deep purple/red.

Clay/earth, deep, fresh, spicy black fruits and a note of Semolina pasta on the nose.

Very intense blackberry syrup and nut paste entry, with fine, slightly edgy tannin hitting immediately. Still, this has a great textural fullness that balances tannin. Not wildly complex today, but this will add nuance with cellar time. Blackberry finish just keeps going.

This is loaded. Very sophisticated winemaking, dynamite raw materials.

Day 4 - This has lost a bit of life, but absolutely fat/oozing/loaded with blackberry/licorice flavor. Huge length.


$60

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Copain "Catie's Corner" Viognier RRV 2005

Light yellow.

Unsalted cashew and fresh herb nose. Can see a glimpse of exotic fruit ..

Sweet, broad, mouth-filling. Exotic fruit (mango/peach) is more restrained than the Whetstone, as is mineral chew. No sulfide or new oak character obvious here. Made for immediate pleasure, it would seem.

Interesting contrast in style. Both are wonderful.

14% alcohol listed.


$25

Whetstone "Catie's Corner" Viognier, RRV 2005

Light yellow.

Mango and peach nose shows some new oak influence and a slight sulfide character.

Plush/sweet palate impression will leave some thinking RS (?), but acidity and mineral/sulfide chew in the finish cuts that thought process short. Long finishing flavor of mango/mineral chew. Seems like a hybrid - Viognier fruit meets Burgundian-styled Chardonnay. This seems to get better, and bigger, with air.

14.6% alcohol listed.


$30? (brought by a friend)

Palacios "Petalos" 2003 (Bierzo, Spain)

Deep red.

Back to the Old World. Nose of wilted spinach, sausage and citrus/pepper. Reminds me (again) of Tardieu-Laurent Cornas.
Smells more like food than fruit.

Citrus dominates in the mouth here, too. Earth and oak spice add interest. Powerful and, again, very fresh (despite the vintage). Acid/tannin chew coats the front teeth. I wouldn't be surprised if this improved for another 2-3 years in bottle.


$16

Camelback, Rockbank Vyd., Shiraz, Sunbury (Australia) 2003

Opaque purple/red.

Lifted, spiced fig, orange peel, oak spice nose.

Orange peel character dominates flavors, very fresh and almost floral. This also manages a good deal of palate sweetness that balances the vibrant citrus character. This is really good - powerful and fresh.

I'm sure Sunbury is a cooler area.


$18

d'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz 2001

Opaque red.

Nose dominated by earth/spice/oak nut character. Smells deep.

Reasonably broad in the mouth with a saline note. Obviously extremely concentrated, tannin is grainy, but largely unobtrusive. Bound up still in the mid-palate and finish.

This was brutal a few years ago. I'm sure this will improve in the bottle for many years, but I still wonder what pleasure it will give.


$50

Friday, August 10, 2007

Mogador 1999 Priorat (Spain)

Deep red.

Nose is a bit baked - clay/earth and spice.

Deep and linear simultaneously - considerable textural plushness for Priorat welded to structural balls of steel. Flavors are indistinct - black fruit and spice - just loads of them. Black olive makes an appearance too.

Another wine that needs air.

Unfortunately, Barbier used un-coated corks until 2000, which means seepage up the cork is a common problem with earlier vintages. Are they as fresh as they might have been? I doubt it.

Day 2 - Quite plush today, with structure arriving later, with less force. I love the textural "give" that Mogador seems to have in relation to almost every other Priorat I've tasted. Tannin still hits the front teeth, though.


$60

Clarendon Hills, Blewitt Springs Vineyard, Grenache, 2001 (Clarendon, Australia)

Light red.

Red fruit, herbs and a saline note on the nose. Not as explosive as it was a few years ago. May simply need air.

Huge, mouth-filling, sweet, textural impression in the mouth. Acid and light tannin provide a good, but unobtrusive, backstop. Long finishing flavor of strawbery preserves and light spice and saline character.

It will be interesting to watch this air over the next few days.


Day 2 - Strawberry preserves, toasted nut, sea salt on the nose. Still packs a wallop in the mouth, but saline-enhanced structure keeps a tighter rein on flavor. It would be very easy to call this "over the top". It isn't. Very long finish and tactile impression.


$45

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Ciacci Piccolomini "Ateo" IGT Tuscany 1999

Red.

Charcoal, gravy, cherry/strawberry jam, oak spice nose.

Intense, linear flavors very much in keeping with its Italian origin. Acid-driven structure apparent throughout, binding the front teeth, but nice flavor flow, with an iron note hitting late and going long.


Sangiovese and Cabernet (I think - Ateo means atheist)


$25 - great value here. The 2004 version should be killer.

Coulon "Boisrenard" Chateauneuf du Pape 1998

Red, evolved rim.

Smoky, savory meat nose. Red cherry and garrigue underneath. Wonderfully integrated. Stuff keeps popping up - black pepper, cinnamon ..

Round, mouth-filling entry, relatively light structure hitting the side teeth. Meaty character repeats, but not yet showing much palate complexity. Needs air.


Aged in small barrels for 12 months, racked every quarter - according to the back label.

Day 4 - Cherry jam, garrigue and charcoal in the mouth - if it weren't for the plush mouthfeel, I'd be thinking modern Barolo/Barbaresco.


$50?

Sunday, August 5, 2007

La Jota, Cabernet Franc, Howell Mountain 1997

Deep red.

Fresh earth and herb nose with a bit of oak toast.

Broad, fleshy, sumptuous in the mouth. Herbs, toast and spicy black fruit flavors. Becomes a bit constricted by acid-driven tannin in the finish, but the flavors ride through fairly well. This will probably be even better tomorrow.


Day 4 - Fully fleshed out now, and, amazingly, not oxidized at all. Still has backbone too.

Interestingly, Michael Havens, a micro-ox expert, says Cabernet Franc can consume and benefit from a massive amount of oxygen.

$40?

La Jota, Petite Sirah, Howell Mountain 1993

Deep red, some rim evolution.

Suave oak spice, earth/clay, blackberry underneath.

Really nice, fleshy, mouthfeel. Earth character repeats in the mouth, with blackberry hitting late. Finishes slightly chewy. This is a very balanced, eminently drinkable version of Petite. I'd guess it was a Spanish Tempranillo.

14.1% alcohol listed on label.


$18 on release.

Lopez Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Reserva Rioja 1996

Red with rust rim.

Attractive nose - lightly grilled meat, toasted nuts, orange peel and a floral note.

Light to medium-bodied, with outsized flavors of red cherry, iron, earth/clay. Acid certainly drives the structure. Subtle length of flavor. Oak has made a generous contribution here, but is well-integrated/not obvious.


Just gets more interesting as it airs. This is why old-style Rioja still has a fan club.


$33

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Blackbilly, Pinot Gris, Fleurieu (Australia) 2006

Platinum.

Lemon/grapefruit zest, talc and a light nut character on the nose.

Lemon/lime zest, with a sweeter flesh flavor from both also. Talc/face powder shows up in the mouth too. Racy and tart/minerally chew reaches the front teeth. Textural sweetness (RS?) balanced nicely by acidity.

Sea-foodies will love this.


$15

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 1999

Deep red, some rim evolution.

Dried herb/garrigue, charcoal, black fruit underneath. This was opened yesterday, and showed a strong blood/iron (brett) aromatic character which is basically gone. Almost floral now.

Nice creamy entry, particularly for Gigondas, with grainy tannin taking a backseat. Spicy black fruit, with an iron nuance. Herb/garrigue flares up too. Very good middle-palate flesh and flavor follow-through.

Good action.

$25