Monday, July 30, 2007

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough (NZ) 2006

Platinum.

Pungent, lifted, green, grapefruit zest aromatics. New Zealand SB poster child nose. Not at all a bad thing.

Full and fresh in the mouth. Maybe some kiwi action in the mouth, really delicious. RS? - who cares? Great balance.
AZ should end up being the biggest importer of NZ SB on the planet, given the climate in the larger metro areas.

Stupidly refreshing/stupid value.

$15?

Saturday, July 28, 2007

Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2003

Opaque purple/red.

Smoke and sulfide skunky nose, deep, far more attractive than it sounds. Black raspberry now noticeable (after first sip).

Creamy, plush, structured entry, as odd as that sounds. Simultaneous impressions that are, nevertheless, discrete. Great power here, but wears it gracefully. A slight saline note with air.

Day 3 - Smoky, meaty thing now. Saline nuance still there. Smells loaded. Packed in the mouth, grainy tannin omnipresent, with a textural sweetness beneath it. This will be around for many years.


$50

Carlisle Russian River Valley Zinfandel Carlisle Vyd. 2002

Deep red.

Lifted, crushed red and black raspberry, earth and spice nose. Fresh, great nose.

Sweet, creamy entry, raspberry repeats in the mouth. Great depth of fruit, seamless and spunky throughout. Acid-driven structure frames flavors without intruding. Just lacks significant complexity ...

Need to latch onto a few bottles of Two Acres and Three Birds.

Day 3 - A bit more integrated in all respects, but also a bit less lively. Drink it.


$35

Shirvington Shiraz McLaren Vale 2002

Opaque black/purple.

Lifted pine/juniper forest, clove, chocolate, cinnamon aromatics. No sign of heat.

Creamy/confectionary in the mouth - impossibly so. But this has an edge of acidity and fine tannin that quietly frames flavors of black raspberry jam, juniper and spice. Again, 16% alcohol is barely noticed (tasted at 63F). Black raspberry finish doesn't end. Not wildly complex, but this has a fineness that many Euro-sluts will miss.

This seems to be getting better (more refined) with bottle age.

Day 3 - Still laying down flavor in a ridiculous fashion. Not an everyday wine, but we all need something like this every month or so. Huge bonefest.


$60

Pax Alder Springs Vyd. Syrah 2003 (Mendocino County)

Opaque purple/red.

Integrated nose of (oak?) spice, menthol, licorice, black raspberry and citrus/pepper.

Deep in the mouth, plush and seemingly low in acidity, but has a lifted character most likely from stem inclusion. Grainy tannin makes its presence known, but does not impede (mainly menthol and licorice) flavor flow. Alcohol is barely noticed - 16.3% listed on label.


$50

Friday, July 27, 2007

Dow's 1994 Vintage Porto

Deep red.

Brandy/Frangelico dominant nose, pudding fruit underneath.

Huge palate impression that is not crazy sweet. Alcohol reasonably integrated. Deep, but not showing its full hand yet. All nut liqueur today.


Wet week here, coolish and humid. So it was time for Porto - sneak preview to Fall/Winter.

Day 3 - This really hasn't changed - I'm thinking this is an off bottle. Closer to Tawny in style. Other bottles have been mind-bendingly complex.


$45? (375mL)

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Domaine de la Janasse "Chaupin" Chateauneuf du Pape 2001

Deep red.

Another nicely integrated nose - though this is tilted more in the oak spice direction. Nice pool of black raspberry fruit, with a touch of Amarone-like truffle/earth.

Really deeply-fruited in the mouth. Cherry/raspberry jam and earth that again resembles new-wave Amarone. Broad and mouth-coating. Almost miss the substantial cheek/front teeth chewy structure. This will improve will several more years also.

Had an oxidized sample of this at HdR in May. Cork blows.

$70

Domaine du Caillou "Quartz" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Red.

Multi-dimensional, integrated nose - roasted meat, toast, cherry jam, creme caramel. Things keep coming out of the woodwork.

Round, seamless entry has a textural sweetness too. Quite structured in the middle-palate, with acid/tannin synergy really clamping down, flavor in the background. But this obviously has the concentration to age for several more years.

Denis Vacheron was a hell of a winemaker. Died in a car wreck at 35.

Day 3 - Hasn't changed much - plush, almost the exact impression of having cherry jam in your mouth (with the other stuff floating around). Still acid-driven and tight. I wonder when this will be at its peak?


$60

Te Kairanga "Runholder" Pinot Noir Martinborough (NZ) 2005

Deep red.

Vibrant cracked pepper/juniper nose, earth/meat underneath. I'd guess this was cool climate Shiraz.

Intense, but very light impression in the mouth, alcohol obviously low (12.5% listed). Acid-driven flavors (mirroring nose) ride through mid-palate nicely. A bit of chew, but finely rendered, pure wine. This has a great deal more stuffing and flavor than the 2004 blogged earlier. Citrus zest character emerges with time in the glass, as does a finishing note of iron.

Screwcap - this will be interesting to come back to in a year or two.

Day 3 - Nose has fleshed out quite a bit. Deep now. Mouth is still linear, intense. This is not likely to fatten up with cellaring, but it will be really interesting to watch aromatic and flavor complexity expand with bottle age.

$25

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Numanthia - Termes 2004 Toro

Deep purple/red.

Baked, clay/earth, black raspberry jam nose.

Intense and concentrated in the mouth, with the spotlight on pure, black raspberry coulis flavor. Huge tannic structure does not kill mid-palate flavor.

It would be interesting to do a vertical blind tasting of Numanthia and Termes.

Day 2 - Even more filled in on the middle-palate, borderline creamy black fruit. The baked character now showing in the mouth. Tannin takes over a bit later tonight.

Great value.

$25

Lesec "Chasse-Temps" Chateauneuf du Pape 2004

Light red.

Spicy red fruit/garrigue nose, moderate intensity, fresh.

Round, spicy, acid-driven entry, with garrigue front and center and cranberry/red cherry in background. Acid drives slightly aggressive (stem?) tannin to the sides of the mouth. Not brutal, however, with quite lifted/fresh/pungent flavor. Light to medium impact, but lots of flavor interest. Needs a few years.

Day 2 - Even fresher today, pungent red fruit and resinous herbs in the mouth. Chewy, no weight. Think Burgundy baby.
Fun stuff.

$26

Artadi Vinas de Gain 2003 Rioja

Deep purple/red.

Lifted citrus zest, clay/earth nose.

Citrus/pepper flavors - this reminds me (strangely) of Gruner Veltliner. Tightly knit.

Day 2 - Citrus now folded into earth character, more seamless nose. Interestingly, the GV comparison still holds in the mouth. Acid-driven tannin clamps down on the front teeth.

I believe this is 100% Tempranillo, and is a great contrast in style/region to the Termes.

$25

Pelerin Monterey Syrah 2005

Deep purple/red.

Vibrant, multi-dimensional nose of suave oak spice, citrus blossom, menthol and a meaty nuance.

Pungent citrus peel flavors, acid-driven, with little oak showing. Green olive too. Definitely middle-weight, but has nice textural sweetness. Quite intensely flavored, long and chewy. Very French in inspiration, even has a cheese note that reminds me of Copain's Madder Lake Syrah.

This is really good. Never heard of these guys, will start looking for more.

pelerinwines.com

$25? (gift)

Friday, July 20, 2007

Chateau Pavie St. Emilion 2003

Deep purple/red.

Oak spice/char, dried fig, grilled meat. A glimpse of raspberry.

Saturated, middle-weight mouthfeel - grainy tannin suffuses palate. Extremely concentrated black fruit character that has a flatness that reminds me of 2003 Northern Rhones.

This is interesting. Crazy hot, dry year in many parts of France. How far can you push the envelope without the benefit of irrigation? This is a wildly divisive wine in a wildly divisive vintage. Based on the tannin/fruit character here, I doubt this will ever sing. But Parker has far more tasting experience than I do ....

Day 2 - Ditto. Huge structure and concentration, but seems to have no life/lift. Time will tell.

Day 4 - Maybe slightly fresher in the mouth. End of the bottle.

$130 future, God only knows what this is now - $300?

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Guigal Vignes de l'Hospice St. Joseph Rouge 2001

Deep, saturated red.

Smoked meat/sausage/wilted greens - crazy food nose. Reminds me of Caldo Verde soup from Portugal. Red raspberry underneath.

Mouth is immediately scoured by acidity and possibly stem tannin - no way is this going to be generous. Intensely flavored, with green character dominating. A citrus character emerging with time in the glass. This is changing constantly - will check back in tomorrow.

Day 2 - No real change. This needs several more years in bottle to unwind a bit.


$70?

Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 2 Yarra Valley 2003

Deepish red with some rim evolution.

Nose quite muted, some raspberry confection, maybe some bacon and earth.

Fuller in the mouth, with raspberry coulis, spice and a hint of peach. Very much a middle-weight, acid-driven, with subtle length of flavor. Completely underwhelming if you're not paying attention - which is a fascinating point. Robert Parker rated this 93 or 94/100 - so much for the guy only liking huge, sweet fruit bombs.

Shiraz and Viognier.

Day 2 - Now see some toasted nut and earth (loam) aromas - raspberry coulis obvious in nose too. Generous, round entry, but subdued. Nice pool of raspberry fruit that again shows a hint of peach. Quite interesting - there is considerable flavor interest here, but it plays softly (think Cowboy Junkies' "Trinity Session"). I'm sure I would under-estimate this wine in a blind tasting.

$50

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (Steen) Stellenbosch 2006

Platinum.

Lemon/lime flesh, vibrant, slight herb and toasted nut aromas. Reminds me of Aussie Riesling.

Vibrant in the mouth too, with a fruit sweetness that may be a result of well-judged RS. Acidity keeps everything in bounds effortlessly, even a bit of mineral action. This is a wonderful wine - flavors remind me a bit of (drier) Austrian whites.


Great summer wine, and stupidly cheap.

$12

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Mogador 2001 Priorat (Spain)

Totally saturated purple/red.

Nose of high-quality oak, both European and American (I think). Shoe polish, earth and extremely intense, almost candied, black fruit lurking underneath. The fruit aspect reminds me of an incredibly ripe Barbera from Rivetti or Chionetti's Dolcetto.

Immediately intense in the mouth. Absolutely packed with acid/tannin structure hitting the front teeth and plush, slightly sweet, Grenache(?)-dominant fruit filling the mouth simultaneously. No sense of thickness, though, quite light in its overall mouthfeel.

This is nowhere close to prime-time drinking.

Day 3 - Nose is even more savory. Hasn't changed much in the mouth. Great balance here, not at all a huge wine.


$70

Bussola "BG" Amarone 2000

Deep, saturated red.

Integrated, great nose of earth/truffle (the Amarone thing), smoky oak, plum/raspberry jam and chocolate.

A bit of heat in the mouth, but very good breadth of flavor, deep and rich. A note of celery seed is the only departure from the nose. Nice, but not great length. Very satisfying, however.

Bussola's 2nd tier Amarone.

$45

Friday, July 13, 2007

Beckman Grenache Purisima Vyd. 2003 (Santa Ynez Valley)

Deep red/purple.

Uber-ripe strawberry/red raspberry coulis of a nose.

Confectionary flavors too, quite pure and absolutely delicious. No complexity here, but the deep strawberry/raspberry sorbet flavors are hypnotic. Broad, fleshy ... You get the picture. But the acidity does cut through any extravagance - providing a firm backstop (and coating the front teeth)..

Back label says 1 ton/acre yield. Wouldn't doubt it. 25% new French, 75% one-year old French, 16 months in barrel.

$30?

Marcassin Marcassin Vyd Chardonnay 2001 (Sonoma Coast)

Straw/yellow, slight haze.

More pronounced sulfide/truffle, deeper, with caramel in background. Vibrant and earth-toned - how?

Great textural sweetness in the mouth as well as density of flavor. Absolutely packed and chewy, but you have a hard time seeing the mineral/tannic chew through the ripe pear and lemon flavors. Wow. Fresh mint kicks in on the absurdly long, caramel finish.

So much for my generalizations about the 3 Sisters vs. Marcassin Vyd bottlings.


Day 3 - Killer, end of the bottle. Sweetness of fruit and caramel battling mineral/phenolic chew to a wonderful standoff.


$100

Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2001

Straw/yellow, slight haze.

Typical sulfide/truffle, lemon zest and caramel with poached pear, sea salt and a carnal/meat nuance.

Packed in the mouth - really stuffed with creme caramel, mineral action. Salty character repeats in finish - fruit gets lost, at least for now. Very long, chewy, subtle finish.

Day 3 - End of the line. Nose now in harmony, all of the above. Lemon now counted among the flavors here, salty character still there, cutting into the sweet caramel character. A wild thing, and worth the ride.


$75

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Marcassin "Upper Barn" Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2000

Slightly hazy, light yellow.

Subdued aromatically. Lemon, truffle/sulfide, and mint.

Quite structured for this bottling, with strong acidity combining with sulfide cut. I would think this is from the Marcassin Vineyard. Nice sweetness and flavor depth push back. Long, subtle finish of sulfide, creme caramel and lemon. An idiosyncratic iron nuance kicks in late.

I was worried that this might be past its prime, but I'm not sure its even reached its peak.

Day 4 - Onions now - sulfide/mercaptan character taking over. Iron note still kicks in late. I'd still sit on this for another year or two.


$75

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Kay Brothers "Hillside" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2001

Deep red/purple.

Tar, savory meat, licorice and spice nose. Huge American oak influence, which I generally hate, but this works.

Slight sweetness in the mouth buffered immediately by grainy tannin, but impressive fruit fat keeps pumping flavor through it all. More impressive, though, than pleasurable/integrated. I wonder how this can improve in the bottle?


$30

Three Hills Shiraz Margaret River 2002 (West Coast Australia)

Deep purple/red.

Deep earth/clay, juniper, cola and meat aromatics. Obviously riper than the 2000.

Deeper in the mouth too, but still has an acid-driven, middle-weight feel. Less lift than the 2000, but more depth.

Thought I liked the 2002 better, but I'm not so sure tasting them side by side.


Day 3 - There's a beet/earth character now.

$40

Three Hills Shiraz Margaret River 2000 (West Coast Australia)

Deep red/purple.

Cracked pepper, juniper, slightly meaty nose.

Medium-weight impression in the mouth, with lively flavors that mirror the nose. Acid-driven tannin coats the front teeth. Not a fleshy wine, but is quite intensely flavored. Long juniper/pepper finish.


Day 3 - Now showing the citrus (orange) character that I usually notice whenever I find a pepper component in a red wine. This is clearly superior to the 2002. Brighter, longer, more interesting.


$30

Monday, July 9, 2007

Navarro Pinot Gris Mendocino Cty. 2004

Pale yellow/copper (skin contact?).

Fresh, cinnamon dusted apple. Also shows a bit of baked apple.

Vibrant apple and mineral character, with spice in background. Mineral chew reaches front teeth. Very good depth of fruit here, but definitely structured, fine and refreshing.

This is really tasty.


$20? (gift)

Friday, July 6, 2007

Copain "Arrowhead Mountain" Sonoma Valley Zinfandel 2004

Red.

Earth/underbrush, celery seed, root veg nose. Far better than it sounds. Reminds me a bit of the Gigondas tasted recently.

More Pinot-like in the mouth, very light touch, but quite intensely flavored. Red fruit with acid supporting unobtrusively. Almost sweet in the mouth but acid and light tannin (reaching front teeth) keep things in check, taut. Remarkable flavor length for a New World wine that is so light.

Senor Guthrie is good. 14.5% on the label.

$35?

Monday, July 2, 2007

FX Pichler Loibner Berg Riesling Smaragd 2002

Straw yellow.

White grape jelly, lemon/lime, with a suggestion of sweetness on the nose.

Deep and plush in the mouth, with ripe pear, lemon/lime citricity, and a mineral/stone chewiness that keeps (seemingly moderate) residual sugar in check. Very long, incessantly chewy finish.

Day 2 - As good as this is, there's a thrill factor missing here. Maybe I'm just used to FX Gruner Veltliner.

Day 5 - End of the bottle. Funny, thought this was toast, but poured some anyway. Still consistent with Day 1, but rules the whole mouth with citrus zest, poached and ripe pear, mineral chew and RS combining in a (great) crazy finish. So much for a lack of "thrill".


$60

Allegrini Amarone 1999

Deep red.

Deep nose showing more oak than the '98, but also purer, with truffle/chocolate/spice as nuances.

Very intense entry, flavors are more suave than the '98, but the alcohol seems more abrasive. Front teeth-coating structure.
Seems to lack some Amarone flair/earth. I've had a hard time with this stuff (3rd bottle over 2 year span).

It was the '96 and '97 bottlings that made me freak out. I'll have to dig out a '97 ...


Day 4 - Nose hasn't changed much, though you really need to look around to find Amarone truffle action. Sweeter entry than the '98, but not as broad in the mouth. Acidity seems higher, though tannin is finer. Overall impression is of greater structure and less "give" than the '98. Not as integrated as the '98.


$50

Allegrini Amarone 1998

Deep red.

Deep truffle, wife says nail polish, I'd say a bit of shoe polish. Then chocolate and plum/raspberry jam on the nose.

High-octane, spicy entry, plush and round. Slightly spiky in mid-palate, with dark cherry flavor bumping through to the chewy, slightly dis-jointed finish. Probably needs some air.

Day 4 - Nice, deep integrated nose. Very round, completely mouth-filling. Cherry/plum jam and truffle flavors are more successful riding through middle-palate. But still a bit abrasive with alcohol. Fine tannic structure coats the front teeth. This will be around for many more years.


$50

Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2003

Deep purple/red.

Spice and clay, with candied blackberry aromas. Nice depth.

Deep and plush (for Barbera) with insistent acidity making its presence known. Nice flavor follow through to finish, with a nut character nuance becoming more prominent.

Not incredible, but very successful and tasty.


$25