Saturated red/purple.
Fresh aromas - black raspberry/blackberry coulis, earth, (oak?) spice. Deep, but nice clarity too. Lisa says Canadian bacon and wintergreen mint. I'd go there too.
Ditto in the mouth, with stronger acidity than the '03 and not nearly as broad. Very good concentration, but I don't see this matching the '03 on the palate, ever. Nevertheless, this is very good action, and likely to be a favorite with N.Rhone lovers who don't enjoy "New World" opulence.
Day 3 - Still has great clarity and interest on the nose. Begins with some real flesh in the mouth, but quickly shuts down the front of the mouth with acid/stem chew synergy. Who knows, maybe this just needs 10-15 more years?
$65
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Pax Alder Springs Vyd. Syrah 2003 (Mendocino County)
Saturated purple/red.
Deep, melted licorice, menthol, dried fig aromas. Like smelling a reduction sauce in the pan - not fresh, but not cooked - with some lift.
Huge, mouth-coating impression. A very slight suggestion of alcohol, but the density, breadth and expressiveness in the mouth blows by it. Typical Pax grainy texture, with low acidity. The nose shows in the flavors that run the length of the court. I can see this adding nuance with even more bottle time, unlike the Mitolo.
This rocks, distinctive and loaded.
Day 3 - Low-toned, oozer of a nose - menthol/licorice/fig reduction. Almost identical in the mouth, massive, but shows some reasonable complexity. In complete contrast to the Mitolo. Great chewy, expressive, length.
16.3% alcohol
$60
Deep, melted licorice, menthol, dried fig aromas. Like smelling a reduction sauce in the pan - not fresh, but not cooked - with some lift.
Huge, mouth-coating impression. A very slight suggestion of alcohol, but the density, breadth and expressiveness in the mouth blows by it. Typical Pax grainy texture, with low acidity. The nose shows in the flavors that run the length of the court. I can see this adding nuance with even more bottle time, unlike the Mitolo.
This rocks, distinctive and loaded.
Day 3 - Low-toned, oozer of a nose - menthol/licorice/fig reduction. Almost identical in the mouth, massive, but shows some reasonable complexity. In complete contrast to the Mitolo. Great chewy, expressive, length.
16.3% alcohol
$60
Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2002
Red/purple.
Smoke/grilled meat, balsamic action, hazelnut and black fruit on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid-edge that keeps things taut. Very good, but not great, density. Nice flavor flow through slightly constricted mid-palate. It seems obvious that 2002 wasn't among the best recent vintages for most of Spain, but the wines are far better than I expected. This is no exception.
Day 3 - Nose now simpler, deeper. Deep smoke/char and savory meat in the mouth. I'd drink this over the next 2-3 years.
$45
Smoke/grilled meat, balsamic action, hazelnut and black fruit on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid-edge that keeps things taut. Very good, but not great, density. Nice flavor flow through slightly constricted mid-palate. It seems obvious that 2002 wasn't among the best recent vintages for most of Spain, but the wines are far better than I expected. This is no exception.
Day 3 - Nose now simpler, deeper. Deep smoke/char and savory meat in the mouth. I'd drink this over the next 2-3 years.
$45
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2004
Saturated purple/red.
Extremely dense nose - with a powdered cocoa element that reminds me of the '04 Amon-Ra Godolphin. A huge, aromatic, mass. Currently undifferentiated.
Huge breadth and depth in the mouth also, with a moderate saline/acid edge. Reasonably refined, but this is a bulk-based effort. Impressive, but what the hell are you going to do with it? I seriously doubt that any interesting complexity will develop with more bottle time.
Day 4 - Deep, huge and refined. No complexity, but not hard to enjoy.
$65
Extremely dense nose - with a powdered cocoa element that reminds me of the '04 Amon-Ra Godolphin. A huge, aromatic, mass. Currently undifferentiated.
Huge breadth and depth in the mouth also, with a moderate saline/acid edge. Reasonably refined, but this is a bulk-based effort. Impressive, but what the hell are you going to do with it? I seriously doubt that any interesting complexity will develop with more bottle time.
Day 4 - Deep, huge and refined. No complexity, but not hard to enjoy.
$65
Waterford "Kevin Arnold" Shiraz, Stellenbosch 2002
Deep red.
Smoky, meaty, slightly feral nose, but not crazy. Hazelnut paste and a medicinal note too. Far better than it sounds.
Deep, round entry, with a gamy, saline edge. Smoked meat permeates the mouth, with unobtrusive tannin framing everything.
If there's fruit here, I don't see it. Don't really miss it, either.
Not great, but this has personality ...
$30
Smoky, meaty, slightly feral nose, but not crazy. Hazelnut paste and a medicinal note too. Far better than it sounds.
Deep, round entry, with a gamy, saline edge. Smoked meat permeates the mouth, with unobtrusive tannin framing everything.
If there's fruit here, I don't see it. Don't really miss it, either.
Not great, but this has personality ...
$30
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Domane Wachau, Achleiten, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd 2005
Straw.
Ripe pear, spice, slight pepper nose. A bit bodacious.
Opens with a suggestion of sweetness and perfectly ripened pear in the mouth. Quite deep, but reined in by chewy mineral/acid synergy. Not complex, but gets major points for ripe fruit and deliciousness.
$25
Ripe pear, spice, slight pepper nose. A bit bodacious.
Opens with a suggestion of sweetness and perfectly ripened pear in the mouth. Quite deep, but reined in by chewy mineral/acid synergy. Not complex, but gets major points for ripe fruit and deliciousness.
$25
Turley, Petite Sirah, Hayne Vyd., Napa Valley 1997
Purple.
Low-toned oak spice, meat/toasted nut aromas.
Round with a slight textural sweetness. Deep and chewy, but one-dimensional at the present.
$50 on release
Low-toned oak spice, meat/toasted nut aromas.
Round with a slight textural sweetness. Deep and chewy, but one-dimensional at the present.
$50 on release
Caprai "25" Sangrantino di Montefalco 1997
Deep red.
Great oak-influenced nose. Maple syrup, sausage, deep earth.
Round, dense/intense. There's serious acid-driven chew here. No fat whatsoever. Nor any sense of complexity, yet.
$80 on release
Great oak-influenced nose. Maple syrup, sausage, deep earth.
Round, dense/intense. There's serious acid-driven chew here. No fat whatsoever. Nor any sense of complexity, yet.
$80 on release
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Clos dels Llops "Manyetes" Priorat 2000
Deep red.
Overtly toasty nose, a bit off-putting, can't tell if it's all oak or oak and sulfide synergy. Deep black fruit buried.
Deep black fruit sweetness in the mouth, framed by toasty oak. Great density, with moderate tannin chew. This was hard as a rock a few years ago.
Day 3 - Similar nose. Deep, creamy black fruit. Again, similar to day 1. Great depth, just lacks complexity.
Mostly Carignan, made by Barbier (Mogador).
$45
Overtly toasty nose, a bit off-putting, can't tell if it's all oak or oak and sulfide synergy. Deep black fruit buried.
Deep black fruit sweetness in the mouth, framed by toasty oak. Great density, with moderate tannin chew. This was hard as a rock a few years ago.
Day 3 - Similar nose. Deep, creamy black fruit. Again, similar to day 1. Great depth, just lacks complexity.
Mostly Carignan, made by Barbier (Mogador).
$45
Les Cailloux, Chateauneuf du Pape 1998
Rust.
Garrigue, iron, grapefruit, earth, black tea, red cherry aromatics.
Slightly dull flavors of garrigue, iron, cooked cherry. Serious structure still, with (stem?) chew hitting the front teeth hard.
I think this will freshen up with air.
Day 3 - Hazelnut now an aromatic addition. Not fresher, but deeper, in the mouth, with stewed tomato making an appearance. I can't say this is particularly pleasant, though the nose is PFG.
$25 on release
Garrigue, iron, grapefruit, earth, black tea, red cherry aromatics.
Slightly dull flavors of garrigue, iron, cooked cherry. Serious structure still, with (stem?) chew hitting the front teeth hard.
I think this will freshen up with air.
Day 3 - Hazelnut now an aromatic addition. Not fresher, but deeper, in the mouth, with stewed tomato making an appearance. I can't say this is particularly pleasant, though the nose is PFG.
$25 on release
Palacios "Corullon" 2000 (Bierzo, Spain)
Red/purple.
Deep, expressive, meaty/savory/balsamic nose. Earth/potato undertone.
Round, with an immediate acid/"mineral" cut that reminds me of Cote Rotie. "Sour", in a mouth-watering way. Not showing any savory character in the mouth. Earth/oak toast/mineral only. Mineral/acid/tannin chew covers the front teeth. Late note of red cherry. This needs air.
Day 3 - Showing a bit more oak spice on the nose, as well as a deep cherry aspect that shows up in the mouth also. Lean and deep. Finely rendered stuff, with slightly chewy finishing tannin.
$55
Deep, expressive, meaty/savory/balsamic nose. Earth/potato undertone.
Round, with an immediate acid/"mineral" cut that reminds me of Cote Rotie. "Sour", in a mouth-watering way. Not showing any savory character in the mouth. Earth/oak toast/mineral only. Mineral/acid/tannin chew covers the front teeth. Late note of red cherry. This needs air.
Day 3 - Showing a bit more oak spice on the nose, as well as a deep cherry aspect that shows up in the mouth also. Lean and deep. Finely rendered stuff, with slightly chewy finishing tannin.
$55
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Muga, Reserva, Rioja 2001
Red.
Grilled meat, slight coconut, earth, custard/pudding fruit. Great, integrated, complex nose.
Acid-driven, also, in the mouth. Citrus zest chew, earth flavors. Bound up on the finish. Funny, I never thought that Rioja and Barbaresco would be remotely similar. These two are, structurally, in the mouth.
Day 3 - Totally savory nose - grilled meat, custard/pudding fruit, barrel spices. Coconut now folded into the custard theme.
No way this could be mistaken, in any way, with Barbaresco now. Quite pliant in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy much lighter and later.
$22
Grilled meat, slight coconut, earth, custard/pudding fruit. Great, integrated, complex nose.
Acid-driven, also, in the mouth. Citrus zest chew, earth flavors. Bound up on the finish. Funny, I never thought that Rioja and Barbaresco would be remotely similar. These two are, structurally, in the mouth.
Day 3 - Totally savory nose - grilled meat, custard/pudding fruit, barrel spices. Coconut now folded into the custard theme.
No way this could be mistaken, in any way, with Barbaresco now. Quite pliant in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy much lighter and later.
$22
Paitin, Sori Paitin, Barbaresco 2001
Deep red.
Sexy almond extract, cherry jam, earth/truffle nose.
Acid-driven palate - red cherry jam, mineral. Huge acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate obliterates everything except minerality. But this has all the stuff it needs, except bottle age.
Day 3 - Charcoal, truffle, almond extract and cherry jam nose. This is showing a major load of mid-palate flesh for any Nebbiolo-based wine. Which isn't to say that it has lost its structure. Huge acid/tannin synergy clamps down, only much later.
I love these guys. The price is stupid.
$40
Sexy almond extract, cherry jam, earth/truffle nose.
Acid-driven palate - red cherry jam, mineral. Huge acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate obliterates everything except minerality. But this has all the stuff it needs, except bottle age.
Day 3 - Charcoal, truffle, almond extract and cherry jam nose. This is showing a major load of mid-palate flesh for any Nebbiolo-based wine. Which isn't to say that it has lost its structure. Huge acid/tannin synergy clamps down, only much later.
I love these guys. The price is stupid.
$40
Zind Humbrecht, Riesling, Rangen "Clos St. Urbain" 2002
Copper/gold.
Roasted botrytis nose - grapefruit marmalade. Huge depth.
Huge in the mouth - quite sweet, but there's a massive amount of extract/flavor depth/chew here. Flavors? Toasted marshmallow, wildly intense grapefruit marmalade and a roasted/earthy botrytis finish. I'd love to know what the volatile acidity is. Acid/sugar smackdown goes on for minutes.
Day 3 - No real change. Loaded, and probably too much for many. But for all the richness, there is a corresponding cut/edge.
15% alcohol, Indice 3 (moderate residual sugar)
$30 375mL
Roasted botrytis nose - grapefruit marmalade. Huge depth.
Huge in the mouth - quite sweet, but there's a massive amount of extract/flavor depth/chew here. Flavors? Toasted marshmallow, wildly intense grapefruit marmalade and a roasted/earthy botrytis finish. I'd love to know what the volatile acidity is. Acid/sugar smackdown goes on for minutes.
Day 3 - No real change. Loaded, and probably too much for many. But for all the richness, there is a corresponding cut/edge.
15% alcohol, Indice 3 (moderate residual sugar)
$30 375mL
Copain, Roussanne, James Berry Vyd. 2004
Straw/yellow.
Almond extract, cashew, with hints of creamed corn, citrus and peach on the nose. Lichee candy and floral action too.
Intense, jellied fruit and mineral entry, with very good mid-palate flesh. Any impression of sweetness tamped down by mineral/phenolic chew. Quite different than the 2005, but killer in its own, structured, way.
$35
Almond extract, cashew, with hints of creamed corn, citrus and peach on the nose. Lichee candy and floral action too.
Intense, jellied fruit and mineral entry, with very good mid-palate flesh. Any impression of sweetness tamped down by mineral/phenolic chew. Quite different than the 2005, but killer in its own, structured, way.
$35
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Marcassin "Zio Tony Ranch" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2003
Light yellow.
Ripe lime aromas, with slight sulfide and caramel nuances. Pristine.
More typical caramel Marcassin entry, but then quite nervy. Taut lime, but nice lime flesh sweetness. Contradictory? Absolutely. Totally killer - Chablis loaded to the hilt/kilt. Monster mineral chew/finish. Atypical precision for Marcassin, allied with the usual flamboyant density. Lime/rocks on your front teeth for minutes. Unquestionably one of the greatest white wines I've had in years.
Absolutely FK.
Day 2- More typical caramel/sulfide nose. Lime underneath. In the mouth, lime and caramel/sulfide battle for dominance. Great freshness, cut. Looking at yesterday's comments, I thought I might have been toasted. Not. This just hammers the salivary glands. A vinous "come to Jesus" moment.
$85
Ripe lime aromas, with slight sulfide and caramel nuances. Pristine.
More typical caramel Marcassin entry, but then quite nervy. Taut lime, but nice lime flesh sweetness. Contradictory? Absolutely. Totally killer - Chablis loaded to the hilt/kilt. Monster mineral chew/finish. Atypical precision for Marcassin, allied with the usual flamboyant density. Lime/rocks on your front teeth for minutes. Unquestionably one of the greatest white wines I've had in years.
Absolutely FK.
Day 2- More typical caramel/sulfide nose. Lime underneath. In the mouth, lime and caramel/sulfide battle for dominance. Great freshness, cut. Looking at yesterday's comments, I thought I might have been toasted. Not. This just hammers the salivary glands. A vinous "come to Jesus" moment.
$85
Friday, August 15, 2008
Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero 2003
Purple/red.
Great barrel (Darnajou?) notes - toasted hazelnut, spice - along with pepper, grilled meat, and, like the Pesquera, vague black fruit aromas.
Unlike the Pesquera, quite refined in the mouth. But also seriously structured, here more acid influenced, constricted. Very interesting contrast in style. This needs years in the bottle. Pesquera more approachable at this point. Strange, but true.
Day 3 - This is showing some oxidative aromatic action. Good depth in the mouth, but very one-dimensional at the moment. Acid/tannin synergy still clamps down in the finish.
$45
Great barrel (Darnajou?) notes - toasted hazelnut, spice - along with pepper, grilled meat, and, like the Pesquera, vague black fruit aromas.
Unlike the Pesquera, quite refined in the mouth. But also seriously structured, here more acid influenced, constricted. Very interesting contrast in style. This needs years in the bottle. Pesquera more approachable at this point. Strange, but true.
Day 3 - This is showing some oxidative aromatic action. Good depth in the mouth, but very one-dimensional at the moment. Acid/tannin synergy still clamps down in the finish.
$45
Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2003
Purple/red.
Leesy/slightly cheesy nose - pudding fruit (raisins, figs), oak spice. Deep, and far better than I describe.
Deep and quite plush, with immediate pudding fruit flavors grabbing attention. Serious mid-palate flesh, especially for the vintage. Seriously structured as well. I have little doubt that this will be better in 3-5 years and drink well for 5 after that.
Monasterio is almost always one of my favorite RdDs
Day 3 - Cream cheese/blueberry pastry on the nose. Difficult to articulate on the palate, but the general impression is one of integration and depth. I'd have no problem sitting on this for several years. Structure coats the front teeth, but earth/pudding fruit flavors ride through it.
Day 7 - Still smells creamy and deep. In the mouth, this is clearly different from the Pesquera, showing lees-enriched mid-palate. Tangy and long.
Flor de Pingus and this wine are made by Peter Sisseck
$40
Leesy/slightly cheesy nose - pudding fruit (raisins, figs), oak spice. Deep, and far better than I describe.
Deep and quite plush, with immediate pudding fruit flavors grabbing attention. Serious mid-palate flesh, especially for the vintage. Seriously structured as well. I have little doubt that this will be better in 3-5 years and drink well for 5 after that.
Monasterio is almost always one of my favorite RdDs
Day 3 - Cream cheese/blueberry pastry on the nose. Difficult to articulate on the palate, but the general impression is one of integration and depth. I'd have no problem sitting on this for several years. Structure coats the front teeth, but earth/pudding fruit flavors ride through it.
Day 7 - Still smells creamy and deep. In the mouth, this is clearly different from the Pesquera, showing lees-enriched mid-palate. Tangy and long.
Flor de Pingus and this wine are made by Peter Sisseck
$40
Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2003
Deep red/purple.
Deep, savory nose - maple, grilled meat, earth, vague black fruit and a medicinal nuance.
Sweet and grainy/saline simultaneously in the mouth. Very good mid-palate flesh wards off significant, side teeth-coating tannin. Nice flavor follow through. Long and chewy.
VGS.
Day 3 - Even more savory now on the nose. Maple syrup and meat. Really expressive in the mouth, with tannin definitely on the back burner. Very satisfying stuff.
Day 7 - Dregs. Still drinking very well. No sign of oxidation.
$28
Deep, savory nose - maple, grilled meat, earth, vague black fruit and a medicinal nuance.
Sweet and grainy/saline simultaneously in the mouth. Very good mid-palate flesh wards off significant, side teeth-coating tannin. Nice flavor follow through. Long and chewy.
VGS.
Day 3 - Even more savory now on the nose. Maple syrup and meat. Really expressive in the mouth, with tannin definitely on the back burner. Very satisfying stuff.
Day 7 - Dregs. Still drinking very well. No sign of oxidation.
$28
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Zind Humbrecht, Hengst, Gewurtztraminer 2000
Gold/copper.
Deep orange marmalade, lichee candy and a slight roasted botrytis note on the nose.
Deep and seemingly quite sweet in the mouth. A medley of fruit jams/marmalades - pear, orange, grapefruit - with a spicy/roasted botrytis element that lifts the flavors and cuts through the sweetness. Lightly chewy finish, remarkable, given the density and richness here. Huge wine (16% alcohol) that works extremely well.
$65
Deep orange marmalade, lichee candy and a slight roasted botrytis note on the nose.
Deep and seemingly quite sweet in the mouth. A medley of fruit jams/marmalades - pear, orange, grapefruit - with a spicy/roasted botrytis element that lifts the flavors and cuts through the sweetness. Lightly chewy finish, remarkable, given the density and richness here. Huge wine (16% alcohol) that works extremely well.
$65
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Copain, Syrah, Harrison Clarke, Santa Ynez Valley 2006
Purple/red.
Integrated, discreet nose. Brown sugar, black/blue fruit, slight herbs.
Plush entry immediately challenged by strong acidity. Nice mid-palate flesh/depth. Funny, though, there's a serious thrill/interest problem here. I doubt aging will help.
This Syrah extravaganza needs to stop. Like all the varietal extravaganzas before it.
Day 3 - Deeper nose, more earth and herbs. Round, creamy, peppery, stemmy action in the mouth. Obviously trying harder after my earlier comments. Definitely tight on the finish, but now the (much more interesting) flavors ride longer. Good to know that Mr. Guthrie has programmed his wines to respond to criticism. PFG.
$45
Integrated, discreet nose. Brown sugar, black/blue fruit, slight herbs.
Plush entry immediately challenged by strong acidity. Nice mid-palate flesh/depth. Funny, though, there's a serious thrill/interest problem here. I doubt aging will help.
This Syrah extravaganza needs to stop. Like all the varietal extravaganzas before it.
Day 3 - Deeper nose, more earth and herbs. Round, creamy, peppery, stemmy action in the mouth. Obviously trying harder after my earlier comments. Definitely tight on the finish, but now the (much more interesting) flavors ride longer. Good to know that Mr. Guthrie has programmed his wines to respond to criticism. PFG.
$45
Monday, August 11, 2008
Vietti, Barbera d'Asti "Tre Vigne" 2003
Red/purple.
Deep clay/earth and savory/grilled meat nose. I'm thinking Tempranillo.
Then very intense in the mouth, with a tight-fisted black fruit character and major acid thrust. But, for Barbera, this is approachable. On the other hand, it's also five years old. Unquestionably, this is some seriously good action, especially at the price.
$17
Deep clay/earth and savory/grilled meat nose. I'm thinking Tempranillo.
Then very intense in the mouth, with a tight-fisted black fruit character and major acid thrust. But, for Barbera, this is approachable. On the other hand, it's also five years old. Unquestionably, this is some seriously good action, especially at the price.
$17
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Three Hills Shiraz Margaret River 2000 (West Coast Australia)
Purple/red.
Deep and lifted aromatics - licorice, juniper, white pepper with a pool of raspberry underneath. Savory meat too. Killer nose.
Round with good, slightly grainy, density. Great lift in the mouth also, thanks to the first three aromatic components. No sense of alcohol. Structure is obvious, but does not impede flavor flow. Late medicinal note. How could you get tired of this?
$20 on a blowout sale, should be $45. This style didn't have many fans back in 2004/5.
Deep and lifted aromatics - licorice, juniper, white pepper with a pool of raspberry underneath. Savory meat too. Killer nose.
Round with good, slightly grainy, density. Great lift in the mouth also, thanks to the first three aromatic components. No sense of alcohol. Structure is obvious, but does not impede flavor flow. Late medicinal note. How could you get tired of this?
$20 on a blowout sale, should be $45. This style didn't have many fans back in 2004/5.
Saturday, August 9, 2008
Phelps "Insignia" Napa Valley 1996
Deep red.
Toasted hazelnut, raspberry and a funky earth/medicinal note that reminds me of certain Shiraz.
Intense and lively in the mouth - no sweetness. Compact and dense. Blackcurrant and a bit of mint flare initially, then substantial acid/tannin synergy clamps down. Flavors slip out again on the subtle finish. Wonder where this is going?
Day 3 - Showing some raspberry sweetness in the mouth now. Deep and plush, with mildly chewy tannin. Nice stuff, but lacks any sense of complexity.
$65 on release? 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot
Toasted hazelnut, raspberry and a funky earth/medicinal note that reminds me of certain Shiraz.
Intense and lively in the mouth - no sweetness. Compact and dense. Blackcurrant and a bit of mint flare initially, then substantial acid/tannin synergy clamps down. Flavors slip out again on the subtle finish. Wonder where this is going?
Day 3 - Showing some raspberry sweetness in the mouth now. Deep and plush, with mildly chewy tannin. Nice stuff, but lacks any sense of complexity.
$65 on release? 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Achaval-Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2005
Hazy purple/red.
Very attractive nose - smoky black fruit, licorice, clay/earth.
Round entry immediately challenged by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Tight mid-palate and finishing structure restricts, but does not kill flavor flow. Front teeth chew. Very late iron note. This needs some bottle time, say 3-4 years, and should drink well for years after that.
Stupid deal.
$27 37% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Very attractive nose - smoky black fruit, licorice, clay/earth.
Round entry immediately challenged by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Tight mid-palate and finishing structure restricts, but does not kill flavor flow. Front teeth chew. Very late iron note. This needs some bottle time, say 3-4 years, and should drink well for years after that.
Stupid deal.
$27 37% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
d'Arenberg "Hermit Crab" Viognier/Marsanne, Adelaide 2007
Straw.
Ripe lime, mineral nose.
Round, with a textural sweetness buffered by well-judged acidity. Fresh, vibrant lime note repeats.
Good stuff.
$14, screwcap
Ripe lime, mineral nose.
Round, with a textural sweetness buffered by well-judged acidity. Fresh, vibrant lime note repeats.
Good stuff.
$14, screwcap
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Galardi "Terra di Lavoro" Roccamonfina IGT 2001
Purple/red.
Wild, earth, nose. Most call it lava rock - can't argue - does smell a bit like pumice. A medicinal note too, as well as truffle and cherry jam (Amarone-esque). Expanding with air.
Leanish in the mouth, with driving acidity and tight bitter cherry and licorice flavors. Reminds me of great Nebbiolo, but with a lava twist. Hugely structured, but nervy red fruit flavor rides through long, salivating, chewy finish. I wonder when this will strut? 2020?
WTF? As usual, Aglianico tastes like little else. Nebbiolo as your closest reference point?
Day 4 - No longer reminiscent of Nebbiolo. Aromas now truffle and pumice. Amarone comes to mind. This association holds up in the mouth too - as this now has a plush mid-palate. Finishing structure is huge/tannic, flavors all pumice/smoke. Not sure how to get this off my teeth/out of my mouth. A cup of hot lamb fat?
$130
Wild, earth, nose. Most call it lava rock - can't argue - does smell a bit like pumice. A medicinal note too, as well as truffle and cherry jam (Amarone-esque). Expanding with air.
Leanish in the mouth, with driving acidity and tight bitter cherry and licorice flavors. Reminds me of great Nebbiolo, but with a lava twist. Hugely structured, but nervy red fruit flavor rides through long, salivating, chewy finish. I wonder when this will strut? 2020?
WTF? As usual, Aglianico tastes like little else. Nebbiolo as your closest reference point?
Day 4 - No longer reminiscent of Nebbiolo. Aromas now truffle and pumice. Amarone comes to mind. This association holds up in the mouth too - as this now has a plush mid-palate. Finishing structure is huge/tannic, flavors all pumice/smoke. Not sure how to get this off my teeth/out of my mouth. A cup of hot lamb fat?
$130
Mustiguillo "Quincha Corral" Vino de la Tierra Terrerazo 2004
Purple/black.
Extremely deep, inky aromas - high quality (French?) oak, incense, blackcurrant/blackberry, spice and earth. Crazy concentration, and refinement evident just in the nose.
Round, with a sweet oak character. Blackest of black fruit, extremely intense, with a corresponding intensity of structure. Flavor/structure pixel count is huge, beyond anything I've seen since my last bottle of Caprai Sangrantino. No shit. But this manages to show some textural sweetness/give.
Killer and in need of many years in the bottle.
Day 4 - Sexy oak treatment still evident on the nose. Structured and deep, with great purity. Massive structure in the finish does not kill flavor flow. Superb winemaking here. The 2000 (tasted at a Spanish-themed restaurant in Sacramento) was all oak/brutal. Just how many years does this (2004) need? I'd say 10, in a good cellar/wine fridge.
$75, 100% Bobal (esoteric Spanish variety)
Extremely deep, inky aromas - high quality (French?) oak, incense, blackcurrant/blackberry, spice and earth. Crazy concentration, and refinement evident just in the nose.
Round, with a sweet oak character. Blackest of black fruit, extremely intense, with a corresponding intensity of structure. Flavor/structure pixel count is huge, beyond anything I've seen since my last bottle of Caprai Sangrantino. No shit. But this manages to show some textural sweetness/give.
Killer and in need of many years in the bottle.
Day 4 - Sexy oak treatment still evident on the nose. Structured and deep, with great purity. Massive structure in the finish does not kill flavor flow. Superb winemaking here. The 2000 (tasted at a Spanish-themed restaurant in Sacramento) was all oak/brutal. Just how many years does this (2004) need? I'd say 10, in a good cellar/wine fridge.
$75, 100% Bobal (esoteric Spanish variety)
Clos du Mont-Olivet "Cuvee du Papet" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004
Deep red.
Red cherry coulis and garrigue aromas with suggestions of nuts, earth, red licorice underneath.
Garrigue quite prominent in the mouth, with corresponding chewy stem (?) tannin. Nicely backed up by red cherry and licorice flavor density. Quite structured, slightly rustic (positive), but flavors flow freely on another track. VGS.
Day 4 - Suave, integrated nose. Round and mouth-filling, with an unobtrusive edge of acidity/stem chew that keeps everything lively. Very good mid-palate flesh.
$50
Red cherry coulis and garrigue aromas with suggestions of nuts, earth, red licorice underneath.
Garrigue quite prominent in the mouth, with corresponding chewy stem (?) tannin. Nicely backed up by red cherry and licorice flavor density. Quite structured, slightly rustic (positive), but flavors flow freely on another track. VGS.
Day 4 - Suave, integrated nose. Round and mouth-filling, with an unobtrusive edge of acidity/stem chew that keeps everything lively. Very good mid-palate flesh.
$50
Domaine Tempier "Migoua" 2004 (Bandol, France)
Purple/red.
Deep clay/earth, blackberry/raspberry coulis and savory meat.
Vivid (for Bandol) raspberry in the mouth, with clay/earth as a follow-up. Quite pure and grainy/chewy in texture. Much better than the Tourtine blogged awhile back. This has real guts. Not complex, but it may well gain it with time in the bottle.
Day 4 - Nose less differentiated, a bit diffuse. Palate better, still has fruit purity, with tannic backbone amplified.
Funny, I'd still go with Bastide Blanche anytime. At half the price.
$45
Deep clay/earth, blackberry/raspberry coulis and savory meat.
Vivid (for Bandol) raspberry in the mouth, with clay/earth as a follow-up. Quite pure and grainy/chewy in texture. Much better than the Tourtine blogged awhile back. This has real guts. Not complex, but it may well gain it with time in the bottle.
Day 4 - Nose less differentiated, a bit diffuse. Palate better, still has fruit purity, with tannic backbone amplified.
Funny, I'd still go with Bastide Blanche anytime. At half the price.
$45
J.L. Chave Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Sybele"2005
Straw/yellow.
Low key, non-descript nose - hints of almond extract, citrus and white peach.
Round and mouth-coating, but this has mineral cut. In fact, it is quite precise in the mouth, largely due to good acidity and strong minerality. Flavors include ripe lemon, almond paste and a citrus zest character in the finish that has nice synergy with mineral chew. Long, subtle finish - almond paste and meal.
I assume this is basically 100% Marsanne.
$30
Low key, non-descript nose - hints of almond extract, citrus and white peach.
Round and mouth-coating, but this has mineral cut. In fact, it is quite precise in the mouth, largely due to good acidity and strong minerality. Flavors include ripe lemon, almond paste and a citrus zest character in the finish that has nice synergy with mineral chew. Long, subtle finish - almond paste and meal.
I assume this is basically 100% Marsanne.
$30
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