Red.
Spiced red cherry jam, light clay/earth and licorice nose.
Deep, plush cherry jam mouthfeel, buffered in the mid-palate by acid/tannin synergy that clamps down on the front teeth. Impressive volume and follow through, but actually restrained/structured for a 2003.
$40
Monday, September 29, 2008
Abadia Retuerta "Seleccion Especial" Sardon del Duero 2000
Purple/red.
Wins style points aromatically - earth/custard, musky black fruit, Bordeaux herbs.
Plush, filled-in palate impression shows a slight superficiality in the finish. Crowd pleaser, but doesn't have the depth it needs. Still, nice stuff.
$20
Wins style points aromatically - earth/custard, musky black fruit, Bordeaux herbs.
Plush, filled-in palate impression shows a slight superficiality in the finish. Crowd pleaser, but doesn't have the depth it needs. Still, nice stuff.
$20
Palacios "Petalos" 2004 (Bierzo, Spain)
Deep red.
Smoke, savory meat, molasses, white pepper nose.
Intense earth/pepper flavors in a mid-weight package. Strongish acidity. Nice length, no fat.
$18
Smoke, savory meat, molasses, white pepper nose.
Intense earth/pepper flavors in a mid-weight package. Strongish acidity. Nice length, no fat.
$18
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Finca Sandoval, Manchuela (Spain) 2004
Purple/red.
Saucy, grilled (balsamic) meat, grilled herbs, light coconut and very deep black raspberry nose.
Very intense in the mouth, slightly abrasive, with strong acid-driven tannin coating the front teeth. Nice flesh, and packed, though. This needs lamb or 6-8 years of cellaring.
Opened yesterday. 83% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 8% Bobal
Day 2 - Showing a very cool juniper/pepper aromatic note. Easing up a bit in the mouth. This is killer.
$45
Saucy, grilled (balsamic) meat, grilled herbs, light coconut and very deep black raspberry nose.
Very intense in the mouth, slightly abrasive, with strong acid-driven tannin coating the front teeth. Nice flesh, and packed, though. This needs lamb or 6-8 years of cellaring.
Opened yesterday. 83% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 8% Bobal
Day 2 - Showing a very cool juniper/pepper aromatic note. Easing up a bit in the mouth. This is killer.
$45
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Kaesler "Avignon" Barossa Valley 2004
Red.
Raspberry, fig, licorice and nut aromas.
Round, sweet and sumptuous in the mouth with a saline/acid edge firming the side teeth. Structure overtakes the flavors a bit from the mid-palate on. Much better tomorrow I'd guess. All red raspberry on the finish.
50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre 15.5 % alcohol listed
$20
Raspberry, fig, licorice and nut aromas.
Round, sweet and sumptuous in the mouth with a saline/acid edge firming the side teeth. Structure overtakes the flavors a bit from the mid-palate on. Much better tomorrow I'd guess. All red raspberry on the finish.
50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre 15.5 % alcohol listed
$20
Cantina del Taburno "Fidelis" Aglianico del Taburno 2001
Deep red.
Deep, smoke/pumice aromatics, with toasted nut, garrigue and a black fruit character (dried fig?) I can't define.
Round and gentle in the mouth, particularly for Aglianico. Nice mid-palate flesh. Not incredibly concentrated, but very nicely put together, individual and extremely tasty. Finishes reasonably long with a light tannic chew. Aromatic notes mirrored in the mouth.
$18, stupid deal.
Deep, smoke/pumice aromatics, with toasted nut, garrigue and a black fruit character (dried fig?) I can't define.
Round and gentle in the mouth, particularly for Aglianico. Nice mid-palate flesh. Not incredibly concentrated, but very nicely put together, individual and extremely tasty. Finishes reasonably long with a light tannic chew. Aromatic notes mirrored in the mouth.
$18, stupid deal.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Saxum "Broken Stones" Syrah, Paso Robles 2002
Purple/red.
Licorice, nutty oak, dried fig and deep black fruit nose.
Sweet and round in the mouth, with a mineral/acid edge keeping everything in bounds. There's effectively no complexity in the mouth, just a textural depth that is impressive.. Very tasty and deep, but decidedly one-dimensional.
Day 2 - Huge raspberry coulis aromatic action - sumptuous. This reminds me of Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache or a monster, refined Priorat. Deep, sweet and "minerally". Textural, layered, complexity. Major bonefest.
$35 on release
Licorice, nutty oak, dried fig and deep black fruit nose.
Sweet and round in the mouth, with a mineral/acid edge keeping everything in bounds. There's effectively no complexity in the mouth, just a textural depth that is impressive.. Very tasty and deep, but decidedly one-dimensional.
Day 2 - Huge raspberry coulis aromatic action - sumptuous. This reminds me of Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache or a monster, refined Priorat. Deep, sweet and "minerally". Textural, layered, complexity. Major bonefest.
$35 on release
Pago del Ama, Syrah, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2001
Deep red.
Smoke, bacon, earth, red and black fruit nose. Not at all opulent.
Round impression, but kept taut by reasonably strong acidity. Linear through the mid-palate and finish, but has good flavor depth. These guys were at HdR this year - restauranteurs I think. This could use some real (dead animal) food.
$45
Smoke, bacon, earth, red and black fruit nose. Not at all opulent.
Round impression, but kept taut by reasonably strong acidity. Linear through the mid-palate and finish, but has good flavor depth. These guys were at HdR this year - restauranteurs I think. This could use some real (dead animal) food.
$45
Aubert, Chardonnay, Ritchie Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2006
Straw. Slight haze.
Refined, pure nose. Caramel, light sulphide, pear.
Sweet textural impression gradually firmed up by acid/mineral/stone structure. Stone/chalk/caramel are the primary flavors today. Long, subtle, fine.
Courtesy of Todd B.
$90
Refined, pure nose. Caramel, light sulphide, pear.
Sweet textural impression gradually firmed up by acid/mineral/stone structure. Stone/chalk/caramel are the primary flavors today. Long, subtle, fine.
Courtesy of Todd B.
$90
Friday, September 19, 2008
P. Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" Chateauneuf du Pape 1999
Deep red.
Spice, garrigue, dried herbs, grilled meat, iron/blood, and cherry jam nose.
Intense and non-fat in the mouth. Spicy cherry jam, a bit of tomato and herb flavors. Linear in a way that brings Barolo to mind. A bit of flesh appears with air. Acid/tannin synergy coats the side teeth.
Opened yesterday. Not appealing at all then, with Brett character dominating. Much better today.
$55 on release
Spice, garrigue, dried herbs, grilled meat, iron/blood, and cherry jam nose.
Intense and non-fat in the mouth. Spicy cherry jam, a bit of tomato and herb flavors. Linear in a way that brings Barolo to mind. A bit of flesh appears with air. Acid/tannin synergy coats the side teeth.
Opened yesterday. Not appealing at all then, with Brett character dominating. Much better today.
$55 on release
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2004 Bandol
Purple/red.
Woodsy/earthy nose. Iron and a bit of game too. Black fruit coulis and licorice underneath.
Round and dense in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy slowing constricting the sides of the tongue. A mouthful of earth and spice at the moment. Not as wild in the mouth as it is on the nose. Constriction/chew now reaching the front teeth and gums.
Opened yesterday.
$25
Woodsy/earthy nose. Iron and a bit of game too. Black fruit coulis and licorice underneath.
Round and dense in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy slowing constricting the sides of the tongue. A mouthful of earth and spice at the moment. Not as wild in the mouth as it is on the nose. Constriction/chew now reaching the front teeth and gums.
Opened yesterday.
$25
Guigal, Lieu-Dit St. Joseph, Blanc 2006
Straw, slight copper.
Reticent nose - almond extract and light pepper. Maybe white peach too.
Round, but well-delineated, with moderate acidity. There's a very fine suggestion of mineral. In fact, this seems light-weight compared to some previous vintages. But it has Tanzer's "sneaky" flavor length. Gets deeper as it warms in the glass. Caramel and marzipan finish. Long and fine.
Opened yesterday
$50. All Marsanne, I think.
Reticent nose - almond extract and light pepper. Maybe white peach too.
Round, but well-delineated, with moderate acidity. There's a very fine suggestion of mineral. In fact, this seems light-weight compared to some previous vintages. But it has Tanzer's "sneaky" flavor length. Gets deeper as it warms in the glass. Caramel and marzipan finish. Long and fine.
Opened yesterday
$50. All Marsanne, I think.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Mogador 2005 Priorat (Spain)
Purple/red.
Vivid black and blueberry coulis, deep earth, oak nut - pure and stupidly deep aromatics. Never had a Mogador like this.
Deep, sweet black raspberry entry, with other aromatic notes providing flavor shavings. "Mineral" struture shuts down front and side teeth. Time will tell ... but this has all the right stuff.
Day 4 - Blueberry pastry, brown sugar aromatics. Still primary rasp/blueberry action in the mouth, with earth and oak spice in the background. Huge teethcoating "minerality" on the finish. Need a time machine - what will this be like in 10 years? Will it actually be "better"?
$75
Vivid black and blueberry coulis, deep earth, oak nut - pure and stupidly deep aromatics. Never had a Mogador like this.
Deep, sweet black raspberry entry, with other aromatic notes providing flavor shavings. "Mineral" struture shuts down front and side teeth. Time will tell ... but this has all the right stuff.
Day 4 - Blueberry pastry, brown sugar aromatics. Still primary rasp/blueberry action in the mouth, with earth and oak spice in the background. Huge teethcoating "minerality" on the finish. Need a time machine - what will this be like in 10 years? Will it actually be "better"?
$75
Pax "Cuvee Christine" Syrah, Sonoma County 2004
Opaque purple.
Extremely deep, low-toned nose - dried fig, slow-roasted meat, melted licorice, menthol, oak spice (?).
In my mind these wines routinely mock the ridiculous simplicity of most Syrah/Shiraz.
Nose mirrored in the mouth - deep, low-toned, with structural tannin/stem(?) chew dominating. Acidity is a mirage. This needs time, though. Quite constricted in the finish.
Day 4 - Melted licorice oozing out of the glass. Still constricted, but licorice and dried fig sauce drive through. Need to see this again in 4-5 years.
$50
Extremely deep, low-toned nose - dried fig, slow-roasted meat, melted licorice, menthol, oak spice (?).
In my mind these wines routinely mock the ridiculous simplicity of most Syrah/Shiraz.
Nose mirrored in the mouth - deep, low-toned, with structural tannin/stem(?) chew dominating. Acidity is a mirage. This needs time, though. Quite constricted in the finish.
Day 4 - Melted licorice oozing out of the glass. Still constricted, but licorice and dried fig sauce drive through. Need to see this again in 4-5 years.
$50
Pesquera, Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 2004
Purple/red.
Deep, killer nose - black pudding fruit, earth, integrated oak spice/toast, licorice and savory meat.
Round, with a suggestion of textural sweetness, but simultaneously taut. Not creamy, with acid/tannin attacking the side teeth. Black fruit depth manages to work through the structure. Impressive, age-worthy action. Purely rendered.
Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Deep, packed and structured. Killer action.
$45
Deep, killer nose - black pudding fruit, earth, integrated oak spice/toast, licorice and savory meat.
Round, with a suggestion of textural sweetness, but simultaneously taut. Not creamy, with acid/tannin attacking the side teeth. Black fruit depth manages to work through the structure. Impressive, age-worthy action. Purely rendered.
Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Deep, packed and structured. Killer action.
$45
Zind Humbrecht, Pinot Gris, Clos Windsbuhl 2003
Straw/light copper.
Nondescript jellied white fruit and spice nose.
Immense textural sweetness in the mouth, quickly put in its place by (seemingly) firm acidity. Not very interesting in the mouth, but does have a "mineral" edge that will please purists. Pure, in its own way, but lacks any real interest. This could use some botrytis.
16% alcohol, Indice 1 (dry)
$50 Opened yesterday.
Nondescript jellied white fruit and spice nose.
Immense textural sweetness in the mouth, quickly put in its place by (seemingly) firm acidity. Not very interesting in the mouth, but does have a "mineral" edge that will please purists. Pure, in its own way, but lacks any real interest. This could use some botrytis.
16% alcohol, Indice 1 (dry)
$50 Opened yesterday.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
St. innocent, Shea Vyd., Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006
Light red.
Deeper black fruit aromas, even a suggestion of licorice. Maple and oak toast nuances.
Round, deep and sweet in the mouth, with black raspberry confection balanced nicely by strong acidity and light tannin that, again, coat the front teeth. Hard not to like this. This too will be better with several years in the cellar.
$45
Deeper black fruit aromas, even a suggestion of licorice. Maple and oak toast nuances.
Round, deep and sweet in the mouth, with black raspberry confection balanced nicely by strong acidity and light tannin that, again, coat the front teeth. Hard not to like this. This too will be better with several years in the cellar.
$45
St. Innocent, Seven Springs Vyd., Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006
Light red.
Suave oak spice/toast, red cherry, and slow-roasted meat aromas.
Round and slightly sweet textural impression, with acidity driving fine tannin onto the front teeth. Nice red fruit throughout, with nothing out of place. Could use a few years in the bottle.
Very tasty, and will get better.
$45
Suave oak spice/toast, red cherry, and slow-roasted meat aromas.
Round and slightly sweet textural impression, with acidity driving fine tannin onto the front teeth. Nice red fruit throughout, with nothing out of place. Could use a few years in the bottle.
Very tasty, and will get better.
$45
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
La Rioja Alta, Gran Reserva "904", Rioja 1995
Red.
Subtle, refined nose. Macaroon, maple-glazed ham, pepper. You need to sit with this.
Lean and acid-driven in the mouth. As might be expected, completely different in nature than most Spanish wines you encounter these days. Redcurrant, coconut, pepper and mineral chew. Absolutely no fat or textural give. I must admit, I'm having a hard time enjoying this, but it seems obvious that some good food (ham/fatty pork?) would work wonders here.
Archetypical food wine.
$60
Subtle, refined nose. Macaroon, maple-glazed ham, pepper. You need to sit with this.
Lean and acid-driven in the mouth. As might be expected, completely different in nature than most Spanish wines you encounter these days. Redcurrant, coconut, pepper and mineral chew. Absolutely no fat or textural give. I must admit, I'm having a hard time enjoying this, but it seems obvious that some good food (ham/fatty pork?) would work wonders here.
Archetypical food wine.
$60
Monday, September 8, 2008
Mas Mallola, Priorat 2005
Deep red.
Intense shoe polish, oak spice/nut/sulfide and deep black fruit nose.
Deep and sweet textural impression, immediately tempered by strong, cheek-coating acidity and moderate tannin. Another wine where structure and flavor ride on two different tracks. Weaving in and out. Taut.
I'd guess this is dominated by Carignan.
Day 3 - Mellow nose now - spice, shoe polish, pepper and black fruit. Acidity hits later and softer. Deep, sweet black and red fruit impression. "Minerally" finish.
Very good stuff.
$40
Intense shoe polish, oak spice/nut/sulfide and deep black fruit nose.
Deep and sweet textural impression, immediately tempered by strong, cheek-coating acidity and moderate tannin. Another wine where structure and flavor ride on two different tracks. Weaving in and out. Taut.
I'd guess this is dominated by Carignan.
Day 3 - Mellow nose now - spice, shoe polish, pepper and black fruit. Acidity hits later and softer. Deep, sweet black and red fruit impression. "Minerally" finish.
Very good stuff.
$40
Les Cailloux, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Light red.
Toasted hazelnut, garrigue and cherry jam aromas. Pepper and meat nuances.
Round, plush and mouth-filling, with acid driven (stem?) tannin providing fairly stiff structural support. Cherry jam and nut flavors manage to find their way through to the finish. Smoke and prune. Disjointed, I'm sorry to say. Everyone loves L.C., and I thought I did, but I've had problems with several vintages lately.
Day 3 - Nose is great, but I'm still getting weirdness I think is from stem inclusion. Quite spicy, but also has a flattened (not fresh) fruit quality. This is hard to enjoy.
$35
Toasted hazelnut, garrigue and cherry jam aromas. Pepper and meat nuances.
Round, plush and mouth-filling, with acid driven (stem?) tannin providing fairly stiff structural support. Cherry jam and nut flavors manage to find their way through to the finish. Smoke and prune. Disjointed, I'm sorry to say. Everyone loves L.C., and I thought I did, but I've had problems with several vintages lately.
Day 3 - Nose is great, but I'm still getting weirdness I think is from stem inclusion. Quite spicy, but also has a flattened (not fresh) fruit quality. This is hard to enjoy.
$35
Martinsancho, Verdejo, Rueda (Spain) 2007
Straw/yellow.
Slightly pungent nose - similar to NZ SB - but here we get more ripe fruit and less herb action. Grapefruit zest, nectarine/ peach aromas.
Lean entry brightened by a medley of fruit flavors mirroring nose. "Mineral" feel cuts through it all. Long, chewy and bright, with no fat whatsoever.
$22
Slightly pungent nose - similar to NZ SB - but here we get more ripe fruit and less herb action. Grapefruit zest, nectarine/ peach aromas.
Lean entry brightened by a medley of fruit flavors mirroring nose. "Mineral" feel cuts through it all. Long, chewy and bright, with no fat whatsoever.
$22
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Marcassin Marcassin Vyd Chardonnay 1999 (Sonoma Coast)
Light yellow.
Lemon oil, sulphide/truffle, almond extract, caramel on the nose.
Deep, yet restrained in the mouth. Contradictory? Absolutely. Huge depth with an overlay of mineral/phenolic/acid structure.
Monster mid-palate flesh, creme brulee/caramel flavors throughout. Incredibly long and chewy. Absolutely killer wine.
$95
Lemon oil, sulphide/truffle, almond extract, caramel on the nose.
Deep, yet restrained in the mouth. Contradictory? Absolutely. Huge depth with an overlay of mineral/phenolic/acid structure.
Monster mid-palate flesh, creme brulee/caramel flavors throughout. Incredibly long and chewy. Absolutely killer wine.
$95
Guigal, Hermitage Blanc 1999
Gold/slight copper.
A bit odd on the nose - which might be expected - spun/caramelized sugar, candied pineapple, aldehydes, almond extract nuance.
Deep, extremely, in the mouth. Mineral/phenolic edge, subtle, keeps things lively. Very ripe pineapple flavor runs the distance.
$50
A bit odd on the nose - which might be expected - spun/caramelized sugar, candied pineapple, aldehydes, almond extract nuance.
Deep, extremely, in the mouth. Mineral/phenolic edge, subtle, keeps things lively. Very ripe pineapple flavor runs the distance.
$50
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