Deep red.
Deep, spicy, grilled meat, A-1 sauce nose. Cherry jam underneath.
Really plush/packed spicy cherry jam in the mouth. Great mid-palate flesh, with acid-driven, sulphide/mineral/tannic edge increasingly dominant. Loaded. Very young. Like CdPapes, this needs air in the worst way.
Day 3 - Deep truffle/earth action on the nose, Amarone-esque. Rocks. Deep, thick and loaded in the mouth too. Just huge, cherry jam, length. Some spicy action too. Jesus. Complex? A bit. Likely more so with several years of bottle age. Strawberry as the dominant, very late finishing flavor. I love Clos des Papes' purity, but the guts/concentration here are on another level.
Day 5 - Now showing some oxidation/muddied character.
$70
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Light red.
Red cherry jam, earth/truffle, iron, garrigue nose.
Round and plush in the mouth, very "filled-in". Great depth and chew, but also very finely rendered. Lots of flavor, but a bit muddled at the moment. Tight finish, iron-dominated. This certainly needs air. When opened, this seemed to have residual CO2, though no physical evidence.
Day 3 - More generous nose - deep, plush red cherry coulis, earth/hazelnut/truffle. Killer. Round and plush in the mouth as well. Better purity today, iron as a undertone. Still has strong acid-driven structure, but red fruit just sails on. FK.
Day 5 - Similar to day 3, but even more delineated. Beautiful stuff. Structured to age for many years.
$65
Red cherry jam, earth/truffle, iron, garrigue nose.
Round and plush in the mouth, very "filled-in". Great depth and chew, but also very finely rendered. Lots of flavor, but a bit muddled at the moment. Tight finish, iron-dominated. This certainly needs air. When opened, this seemed to have residual CO2, though no physical evidence.
Day 3 - More generous nose - deep, plush red cherry coulis, earth/hazelnut/truffle. Killer. Round and plush in the mouth as well. Better purity today, iron as a undertone. Still has strong acid-driven structure, but red fruit just sails on. FK.
Day 5 - Similar to day 3, but even more delineated. Beautiful stuff. Structured to age for many years.
$65
Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2002
Deep, murky red. Some rim evolution.
That deep, sumptuous, evolved "Marcassin PN at its best" nose - fennel, savory meat/duck fat, cherry sauce, earth, hazelnut liqueur ...
Round, deep and sweet texturally. Slight heat, but sails on, with great mid-palate depth. There's an acid edge riding though it all, probably elevated VA involved, that keeps everything in check. But also a bit abrasive. Great (cherry) length. We'll see if air time brings everything together.
Day 3 - Still sumptuous on the nose. Better integration in the mouth also. VA still is a bit discordant, but I don't really care. Does not have the flavor complexity of the best bottlings, but very few people will mind.
$90
That deep, sumptuous, evolved "Marcassin PN at its best" nose - fennel, savory meat/duck fat, cherry sauce, earth, hazelnut liqueur ...
Round, deep and sweet texturally. Slight heat, but sails on, with great mid-palate depth. There's an acid edge riding though it all, probably elevated VA involved, that keeps everything in check. But also a bit abrasive. Great (cherry) length. We'll see if air time brings everything together.
Day 3 - Still sumptuous on the nose. Better integration in the mouth also. VA still is a bit discordant, but I don't really care. Does not have the flavor complexity of the best bottlings, but very few people will mind.
$90
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas" Paso Robles 2005
Deep red.
Deep, slightly baked, black cherry, earth, slight licorice nose. Open-knit, very attractive.
Ditto in the mouth, very expansive/plush. No real complexity and some heat, but I could drink quite a bit of this. Acid/mineral structure quietly coats the front teeth.
Day 4 - Deeper and more sumptuous on the nose. Totally satisfying on the palate, though finishes a bit short. Still finishes with mineral/acid chew, now on the side teeth.
$25, 43% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre, 18% Syrah, 15% Counoise
Deep, slightly baked, black cherry, earth, slight licorice nose. Open-knit, very attractive.
Ditto in the mouth, very expansive/plush. No real complexity and some heat, but I could drink quite a bit of this. Acid/mineral structure quietly coats the front teeth.
Day 4 - Deeper and more sumptuous on the nose. Totally satisfying on the palate, though finishes a bit short. Still finishes with mineral/acid chew, now on the side teeth.
$25, 43% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre, 18% Syrah, 15% Counoise
Clos St. Michel "Cuvee Reservee" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Deep red.
Cherry jam, clay/earth, garrigue, iron and brown spices.
Broad and round in the mouth, slight textural sweetness. Deep spicy cherry, earth and herb spice flavors. Decent length. No new oak showing. Very pleasant stuff. Medicinal herb finish.
Day 4 - Another killer nose. Not nearly as concentrated as CdP or Usseglio, but possibly the smart buy in a cash strapped world.
$28, 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre
Cherry jam, clay/earth, garrigue, iron and brown spices.
Broad and round in the mouth, slight textural sweetness. Deep spicy cherry, earth and herb spice flavors. Decent length. No new oak showing. Very pleasant stuff. Medicinal herb finish.
Day 4 - Another killer nose. Not nearly as concentrated as CdP or Usseglio, but possibly the smart buy in a cash strapped world.
$28, 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Bastide Blanche "Longue Garde" 1998 Bandol
Deep, murky red.
Smoke, embers, iron, wilted herbs, iodine, savory meat nose. A bit of horseshit, too, for purists.
Round and plush on entry, dense and concentrated. Grainy texture typical of B-B kicks in on the mid-palate and doesn't let up. Licorice and smoke on the chewy, tannic, finish. Thank God for wines like this. Where's the lamb cassoulet?
$35
Smoke, embers, iron, wilted herbs, iodine, savory meat nose. A bit of horseshit, too, for purists.
Round and plush on entry, dense and concentrated. Grainy texture typical of B-B kicks in on the mid-palate and doesn't let up. Licorice and smoke on the chewy, tannic, finish. Thank God for wines like this. Where's the lamb cassoulet?
$35
Friday, December 26, 2008
Saxum "James Berry Vineyard" Paso Robles 2005
Purple.
High-toned nose of brown spices, licorice, black olive.
Plush and very deep/sweet in the mouth. A bit of heat, though, as strong acidity cuts into the finish. Ultimately seems to lack an extra textural dimension to cover the alcohol. I've under-estimated these wines before, however. They often need significant air time to strut (long lees aging).
Day 4 - Deep, saucy aromas - A-1 marinated steak, licorice, earth. Wildly sweet and broad in the mouth, with alcohol showing. Mineral action kicks in on the dis-jointed finish.
$65, 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache
High-toned nose of brown spices, licorice, black olive.
Plush and very deep/sweet in the mouth. A bit of heat, though, as strong acidity cuts into the finish. Ultimately seems to lack an extra textural dimension to cover the alcohol. I've under-estimated these wines before, however. They often need significant air time to strut (long lees aging).
Day 4 - Deep, saucy aromas - A-1 marinated steak, licorice, earth. Wildly sweet and broad in the mouth, with alcohol showing. Mineral action kicks in on the dis-jointed finish.
$65, 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache
Rug Vino "Exopto" Rioja 2005
Purple.
Great, deep, oak spice, fig/prune/date, earth nose. Not at all baked - just deep and a bit reticent.
Round and simultaneously sweet and taut. Tanzer's "painful" intensity. Tightly wound from the mid-palate on, but there's some serious concentration here. A bit grapy at the moment. Very interesting take on Rioja.
Day 4 - Deep, spicy/peppery black fruit flavors now. Still intense/taut. Major acid-driven tannin in the finish. Reminds me a bit of the deep black fruit and strong structure of dry reds from the Douro. Many years needed here.
$60, 60% Graciano, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha
Great, deep, oak spice, fig/prune/date, earth nose. Not at all baked - just deep and a bit reticent.
Round and simultaneously sweet and taut. Tanzer's "painful" intensity. Tightly wound from the mid-palate on, but there's some serious concentration here. A bit grapy at the moment. Very interesting take on Rioja.
Day 4 - Deep, spicy/peppery black fruit flavors now. Still intense/taut. Major acid-driven tannin in the finish. Reminds me a bit of the deep black fruit and strong structure of dry reds from the Douro. Many years needed here.
$60, 60% Graciano, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha
Pelletier "l en'goulevent" St Chinian 2005
Deep red.
Seems a bit oxidized on the nose - burnt wood, nut. No obvious sign that this bottle is off.
Very round and spicy in the mouth, with edgy acidity slowly moving into the front teeth. Much fresher than the nose - with pepper and sweet cherry flavors and a mineral constriction in the finish. There's a celery seed feature that underlies it all, start to finish. Wild stuff that seems like it is still sorting itself out.
Day 3- Definitely oxidized.
$25
Seems a bit oxidized on the nose - burnt wood, nut. No obvious sign that this bottle is off.
Very round and spicy in the mouth, with edgy acidity slowly moving into the front teeth. Much fresher than the nose - with pepper and sweet cherry flavors and a mineral constriction in the finish. There's a celery seed feature that underlies it all, start to finish. Wild stuff that seems like it is still sorting itself out.
Day 3- Definitely oxidized.
$25
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux) 2005
Purple.
Relatively open-knit nose of black fruit, clay/earth, licorice and oak spice. With air, some savory campfire/meat character emerges.
Relatively easy-going in the mouth, too (for a 2005), and light to middle-weight, probably appropriate for Pessac-L. Intense and structured from the mid-palate on, with iron the increasingly dominant flavor.
$35?
Relatively open-knit nose of black fruit, clay/earth, licorice and oak spice. With air, some savory campfire/meat character emerges.
Relatively easy-going in the mouth, too (for a 2005), and light to middle-weight, probably appropriate for Pessac-L. Intense and structured from the mid-palate on, with iron the increasingly dominant flavor.
$35?
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2006
Deep, opaque, vibrant purple.
Crazy, completely atypical (for me at least) Thackrey nose - green chile, cheese. Could be Copain.
Round and mouth-filling, with acidity and tannin at the periphery of the mouth. Black raspberry and moderate chile/cheese flavors. Much better than it sounds. Raspberry picks up steam as the wine airs. No sign of eucalyptus. Thackrey said nothing about stem inclusion when we visited in early 2007 (apart from his initial vintage in 1986), but I can't imagine any other source for this action. I also get the impression that this has not been acidified nearly as much as previous vintages.
Day 4 - Similar, more sumptuous nose - something you eat. Very deep and plush, tannin is really in the background now. Must admit, this is better than any of my recent Copain bottlings. Old vineyard, though. The pH has to be quite high to take the edge off the stem tannin.
$75
Crazy, completely atypical (for me at least) Thackrey nose - green chile, cheese. Could be Copain.
Round and mouth-filling, with acidity and tannin at the periphery of the mouth. Black raspberry and moderate chile/cheese flavors. Much better than it sounds. Raspberry picks up steam as the wine airs. No sign of eucalyptus. Thackrey said nothing about stem inclusion when we visited in early 2007 (apart from his initial vintage in 1986), but I can't imagine any other source for this action. I also get the impression that this has not been acidified nearly as much as previous vintages.
Day 4 - Similar, more sumptuous nose - something you eat. Very deep and plush, tannin is really in the background now. Must admit, this is better than any of my recent Copain bottlings. Old vineyard, though. The pH has to be quite high to take the edge off the stem tannin.
$75
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2001
Opaque purple.
Deep, sexy, smoky oak, earth, candied blackberry nose. Immediately calls to mind a Pintia bottling, with a high-toned character that also reminds me of Atauta (Toro and Ribera del Duero respectively, both Tempranillo-based)).
Deep and packed in the mouth, with insistent acid-driven flavors of earth, iron, mineral. Blackberry and a hint of eucalyptus bringing up the rear. Acidity is out of whack, structurally, with grainy tannin and a burnt quality in the finish. All of which remind me of certain Shiraz'.
Day 3 - This continues to remind me of RdD/Toro, although there's now a hint of eucalyptus and char in the nose too. Round with a textural sweetness that brings us back to Oz. Acid a bit better integrated, though tannin is still chewy and slightly abrasive. Wild, interesting wine.
$75
Deep, sexy, smoky oak, earth, candied blackberry nose. Immediately calls to mind a Pintia bottling, with a high-toned character that also reminds me of Atauta (Toro and Ribera del Duero respectively, both Tempranillo-based)).
Deep and packed in the mouth, with insistent acid-driven flavors of earth, iron, mineral. Blackberry and a hint of eucalyptus bringing up the rear. Acidity is out of whack, structurally, with grainy tannin and a burnt quality in the finish. All of which remind me of certain Shiraz'.
Day 3 - This continues to remind me of RdD/Toro, although there's now a hint of eucalyptus and char in the nose too. Round with a textural sweetness that brings us back to Oz. Acid a bit better integrated, though tannin is still chewy and slightly abrasive. Wild, interesting wine.
$75
Friday, December 19, 2008
Tablas Creek, Tannat, Paso Robles 2004
Purple.
Deep plum/prune, savory nut and earth nose.
Unexpectedly plush entry, with deep black fruit going the distance. Tannin increases incrementally through the finish, but does not seriously impede flavor flow. Seems to be slightly volatile, but nothing crazy.
Gift $25? Tannat is the primary grape in the Madiran region of France and the variety that micro-oxygenation was invented for. Think monster tannin.
Deep plum/prune, savory nut and earth nose.
Unexpectedly plush entry, with deep black fruit going the distance. Tannin increases incrementally through the finish, but does not seriously impede flavor flow. Seems to be slightly volatile, but nothing crazy.
Gift $25? Tannat is the primary grape in the Madiran region of France and the variety that micro-oxygenation was invented for. Think monster tannin.
Copain, Syrah "Thompson" Santa Barbara Cty. 2005
Purple/red.
Interesting nose - toasted nut, Bordeaux (indeed) greens, fresh raspberry. I can't tell yet if the green character is from stem inclusion or just cool climate greenness.
Round and dense in the mouth, with green character now veering to stem/chili with corresponding stem chew hitting the front teeth in a significant way. But all this in a moderate way that works well. Raspberry fortunately shows too. Seems to have significant acidity, but is not abrasive. I wonder what this will do with 5-6 years in the bottle?
$45
Interesting nose - toasted nut, Bordeaux (indeed) greens, fresh raspberry. I can't tell yet if the green character is from stem inclusion or just cool climate greenness.
Round and dense in the mouth, with green character now veering to stem/chili with corresponding stem chew hitting the front teeth in a significant way. But all this in a moderate way that works well. Raspberry fortunately shows too. Seems to have significant acidity, but is not abrasive. I wonder what this will do with 5-6 years in the bottle?
$45
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 2004 Bandol
Purple/red.
Clay/earth, game/sausage, licorice, fig/date, deep nose.
Round and dense in the mouth, with a bit more refinement and less brute power than the 2001 (not necessarily a good thing).
Still nicely loaded, with relatively fine tannin constricting the iron-laden finish. Distinctive Mourvedre.
Day 3 - Deep blackberry/earth/fig aromas, some hazelnut too. Definitely finely-rendered, with tannin a bit more forceful today. This will be around for some time. As usual, a great deal.
Day 7 - Deep, no sign of oxidation, clay/pepper nose. Pepper/citrus flavors, deep, packed and huge, chewy length. This rocks - best day yet. Earl B. does it again. I wonder how these wines fare in the various wine publications? Not well, based on the price. Buy it and chew on some lamb.
$25
Clay/earth, game/sausage, licorice, fig/date, deep nose.
Round and dense in the mouth, with a bit more refinement and less brute power than the 2001 (not necessarily a good thing).
Still nicely loaded, with relatively fine tannin constricting the iron-laden finish. Distinctive Mourvedre.
Day 3 - Deep blackberry/earth/fig aromas, some hazelnut too. Definitely finely-rendered, with tannin a bit more forceful today. This will be around for some time. As usual, a great deal.
Day 7 - Deep, no sign of oxidation, clay/pepper nose. Pepper/citrus flavors, deep, packed and huge, chewy length. This rocks - best day yet. Earl B. does it again. I wonder how these wines fare in the various wine publications? Not well, based on the price. Buy it and chew on some lamb.
$25
Castellani, Cinque Stelle (5 star), Monte Cristi, Amarone 1997
Dull, murky, red.
Killer, evolved nose - smoke/campfire/truffle, cherry jam, blood/iron, herbs, toasted marshmallow and deep, sumptuous, "other stuff". Continues to evolve with air.
Round and packed, with cherry jam, truffle/earth/hazelnut and a citrus zest (indeed) note that brightens the finish. Long, subtle finish. Needs another day of air. Like the nose, I could sit here for hours watching this thing change.
Day 2 - Aromatics just oozing all over the place - cherry jam, duck fat, campfire, herbs, truffle, iron. Oh so savory. Matched in the mouth now too, although still constricted in the finish.
$35
Killer, evolved nose - smoke/campfire/truffle, cherry jam, blood/iron, herbs, toasted marshmallow and deep, sumptuous, "other stuff". Continues to evolve with air.
Round and packed, with cherry jam, truffle/earth/hazelnut and a citrus zest (indeed) note that brightens the finish. Long, subtle finish. Needs another day of air. Like the nose, I could sit here for hours watching this thing change.
Day 2 - Aromatics just oozing all over the place - cherry jam, duck fat, campfire, herbs, truffle, iron. Oh so savory. Matched in the mouth now too, although still constricted in the finish.
$35
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Palacios "Corullon" 2005 (Bierzo, Spain)
Purple.
Deep spicy, meaty, savory earth/roasted potato nose.
Round, envelops the mouth, but is taut too, thanks to strong acidity. Flavors are bound up, showing little more than earth and a hint of oak spice. Definitely needs to sit.
Day 4 - Deep, packed nose now shows a Syrah-like melted licorice/menthol/nut liqueur character. Intense and packed in the mouth, with serious acid-driven structural intensity. Nose repeats, with spicy/peppery action too. Loaded and built for some serious cellar time.
$55
Deep spicy, meaty, savory earth/roasted potato nose.
Round, envelops the mouth, but is taut too, thanks to strong acidity. Flavors are bound up, showing little more than earth and a hint of oak spice. Definitely needs to sit.
Day 4 - Deep, packed nose now shows a Syrah-like melted licorice/menthol/nut liqueur character. Intense and packed in the mouth, with serious acid-driven structural intensity. Nose repeats, with spicy/peppery action too. Loaded and built for some serious cellar time.
$55
Sierra Cantabria "Collecion Privada" Rioja 2003
Red/purple.
Reticent nose - citrus/pepper/earth/grilled meat.
Intense mouthfeel shows a bit of flesh in the mid-palate. A bit brawny at the moment, probably a (hot) vintage thing. Citrus chew along with a macaroon quality in the finish. Good stuff.
$38
Reticent nose - citrus/pepper/earth/grilled meat.
Intense mouthfeel shows a bit of flesh in the mid-palate. A bit brawny at the moment, probably a (hot) vintage thing. Citrus chew along with a macaroon quality in the finish. Good stuff.
$38
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Gauby "Les Calcinaires" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2007
Red.
Reasonably expressive nose - game, ground pepper, red fruit with an exotic pineapple flair.
Round, with subtle sweeteness in the mouth. Ground pepper and light game repeat. Obviously riper than the 2004, which also translates into better mid-palate flesh and overall flavor "density".
Day 2 - More typical herbs, game/roasted meat nose now. Riper than the '04, but that's not saying much, really. Very tight in the mouth, more so than yesterday.
$25
Reasonably expressive nose - game, ground pepper, red fruit with an exotic pineapple flair.
Round, with subtle sweeteness in the mouth. Ground pepper and light game repeat. Obviously riper than the 2004, which also translates into better mid-palate flesh and overall flavor "density".
Day 2 - More typical herbs, game/roasted meat nose now. Riper than the '04, but that's not saying much, really. Very tight in the mouth, more so than yesterday.
$25
Gauby "Les Calcinaires" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2004
Deep red.
Nose wrapped up a bit - earth/oak spice(?)/nut oil with red fruit underneath.
Lightweight in the mouth, with intense mineral/acid structure coating the front teeth. Cherry and mineral flavors are subtle and long. Mineral chew start to finish. Another wine that is completely out of tune with the contemporary wine scene. Seems like a great Beaujolais substitute. Try this with roast chicken.
Day 3 - More giving and attractive on the nose. More red fruit in the mouth, where I'm now reminded of Chianti, but not a particularly distinguished one. Finely rendered, linear. Lacks depth - picked early?
$22
Nose wrapped up a bit - earth/oak spice(?)/nut oil with red fruit underneath.
Lightweight in the mouth, with intense mineral/acid structure coating the front teeth. Cherry and mineral flavors are subtle and long. Mineral chew start to finish. Another wine that is completely out of tune with the contemporary wine scene. Seems like a great Beaujolais substitute. Try this with roast chicken.
Day 3 - More giving and attractive on the nose. More red fruit in the mouth, where I'm now reminded of Chianti, but not a particularly distinguished one. Finely rendered, linear. Lacks depth - picked early?
$22
Borsao Garnacha "Tres Picos" 2004 (Campo de Borja)
Deep red.
Deep raspberry/citrus coulis, toasted nut and light earth nose. Opened yesterday, when it showed a vibrant citrus zest pungency.
Similar in the mouth, with the evolution over a day matching that of the nose. Plush raspberry and light citrus flavors ride throught the mid-palate. Finishes with moderate citrus zest chew. Really good action, and stupidly cheap.
$14
Deep raspberry/citrus coulis, toasted nut and light earth nose. Opened yesterday, when it showed a vibrant citrus zest pungency.
Similar in the mouth, with the evolution over a day matching that of the nose. Plush raspberry and light citrus flavors ride throught the mid-palate. Finishes with moderate citrus zest chew. Really good action, and stupidly cheap.
$14
Friday, December 12, 2008
Olivares, Dulce Monastrell, Jumilla 2004
Opaque purple.
Deep, sumptuous, killer nose shows no heat/brandy influence (can't remember if this is fortified, believe it is not). Reduction sauce - figs, dates, nuts, spice. Exotic, fragrant, wood, too.
Deep, ridiculously sweet and mouthcoating, with the fragrant wood note repeating in the "finish". Despite its enormous depth, this still comes across as reasonably fresh. Absolutely FK. Yada ....
Day 5 - This really is a complete meal. Deep, sweet and loaded. Dried fruits and lifted, fragrant wood notes.
$35/500mL One of the best dessert buys on the planet. Every year.
Deep, sumptuous, killer nose shows no heat/brandy influence (can't remember if this is fortified, believe it is not). Reduction sauce - figs, dates, nuts, spice. Exotic, fragrant, wood, too.
Deep, ridiculously sweet and mouthcoating, with the fragrant wood note repeating in the "finish". Despite its enormous depth, this still comes across as reasonably fresh. Absolutely FK. Yada ....
Day 5 - This really is a complete meal. Deep, sweet and loaded. Dried fruits and lifted, fragrant wood notes.
$35/500mL One of the best dessert buys on the planet. Every year.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
P. Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Deep red, rust rim.
Immediate, wild aromas - blood/iron, savory meat, earth, garrigue, green bean (but this is almost 100% Grenache. I think, no Syrah) with kirsch underneath. Also a toasted nut character that I'd normally think came from oak, but this is aged in concrete (or neutral, large oak).
Deep and round, but an edge of acidity and iron and a green sourness (like the l'Hortus) keep any textural sweetness at bay. Intense and tough sledding in the mid-palate. Iron, garrigue and cherry flavors manage to drive through. Long and almost "minerally" finish dominated by iron. Can't imagine anyone mistaking this for a wine from Janasse or Clos St. Jean.
Hate to flog a dead horse, punny, but this needs a dead animal in the worst way. Lamb.
Day 4 - Still aromatically crazy, in a good way. Some will find this rude, however. Much easier in the mid-palate, but still edgy. Long, green, smoky, iron/blood, cherry jam finish. Hilariously out of sync with the contemporary wine scene.
$65
Immediate, wild aromas - blood/iron, savory meat, earth, garrigue, green bean (but this is almost 100% Grenache. I think, no Syrah) with kirsch underneath. Also a toasted nut character that I'd normally think came from oak, but this is aged in concrete (or neutral, large oak).
Deep and round, but an edge of acidity and iron and a green sourness (like the l'Hortus) keep any textural sweetness at bay. Intense and tough sledding in the mid-palate. Iron, garrigue and cherry flavors manage to drive through. Long and almost "minerally" finish dominated by iron. Can't imagine anyone mistaking this for a wine from Janasse or Clos St. Jean.
Hate to flog a dead horse, punny, but this needs a dead animal in the worst way. Lamb.
Day 4 - Still aromatically crazy, in a good way. Some will find this rude, however. Much easier in the mid-palate, but still edgy. Long, green, smoky, iron/blood, cherry jam finish. Hilariously out of sync with the contemporary wine scene.
$65
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Domaine de L'Hortus "Grande Cuvee" Pic Saint Loup 2004
Deep. slightly dull, red.
Deep spicy, meaty nose is difficult to articulate. There's also a "green" earth character that brings a green chile tamale to mind. There must be some Syrah here.
Round, with a spicy, stemmy, green edge. There's definitely Syrah here. Very structured in a northern Rhone sort of way. Middle-weight and intense, but difficult to enjoy at the moment. Needs appropriate food. Remarkably similar to the L'Aigueliere "Cote Doree" 1996 tasted earlier this year.
$25
Deep spicy, meaty nose is difficult to articulate. There's also a "green" earth character that brings a green chile tamale to mind. There must be some Syrah here.
Round, with a spicy, stemmy, green edge. There's definitely Syrah here. Very structured in a northern Rhone sort of way. Middle-weight and intense, but difficult to enjoy at the moment. Needs appropriate food. Remarkably similar to the L'Aigueliere "Cote Doree" 1996 tasted earlier this year.
$25
Monday, December 8, 2008
Elderton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa 2005
Deep red.
Sweet, creamy herb nose reminds me of Shirvington's 2002 Cabernet tasted years ago. But this is less flamboyant. Earth, oak spice and blackcurrant underneath.
Herb, oak spice and brown sugar make an immediate impact in the mouth. Nice roundness and initial harmony. Gets a bit dis-jointed in the finish, with acid and tannin going haywire. Not sure what to make of this. Like this less each time I go back.
Day 3 - More integrated aromatically, with blackcurrant hitting early. Brown sugar and acid-driven structure hitting later now.
Still get the impression that this will never sing, though. Good material, but any kind of structural reconciliation doesn't seem to be in the cards.
$25
Sweet, creamy herb nose reminds me of Shirvington's 2002 Cabernet tasted years ago. But this is less flamboyant. Earth, oak spice and blackcurrant underneath.
Herb, oak spice and brown sugar make an immediate impact in the mouth. Nice roundness and initial harmony. Gets a bit dis-jointed in the finish, with acid and tannin going haywire. Not sure what to make of this. Like this less each time I go back.
Day 3 - More integrated aromatically, with blackcurrant hitting early. Brown sugar and acid-driven structure hitting later now.
Still get the impression that this will never sing, though. Good material, but any kind of structural reconciliation doesn't seem to be in the cards.
$25
Calvet-Thunevin "Cuvee Constance" Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2005
Deep, bright, red.
Earth/oak/nut nicely woven into the deep, spicy red and black cherry/raspberry fruit nose. Shoe polish and licorice too. Very fresh and deep, not an easy task.
Really plush, deep and sweet in the mouth, with bright acidity framing everything lightly. This is really good, very fine. Reminds me of the Artazu de Santa Cruz Garnacha, only this has better balance. Acid-constriction tames the finish. I'd drink this over the next 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Very deep, confectionary nose of black raspberry, almost like Banyuls. Similar to day 1, but deeper. Acidity still comes on strong. Long, pure, mineral finish.
$18? Can't remember. Stupid value.
Earth/oak/nut nicely woven into the deep, spicy red and black cherry/raspberry fruit nose. Shoe polish and licorice too. Very fresh and deep, not an easy task.
Really plush, deep and sweet in the mouth, with bright acidity framing everything lightly. This is really good, very fine. Reminds me of the Artazu de Santa Cruz Garnacha, only this has better balance. Acid-constriction tames the finish. I'd drink this over the next 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Very deep, confectionary nose of black raspberry, almost like Banyuls. Similar to day 1, but deeper. Acidity still comes on strong. Long, pure, mineral finish.
$18? Can't remember. Stupid value.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2003
Red.
Melded, sexy, nose of oak spices, earth and cherry coulis. Getting more sumptuous as it airs.
Round, broad and mouthcoating, with an edge of acidity and sulfides keeping everything in check. Not at all flamboyant at this point. Quite structured, in fact, with acid/sulfide edge dominating the finish and coating the front teeth in finely ground "chew". This will be interesting to watch over the next 5-8 years.
Day 3- Great nose that shows significant oak influence, something I rarely see in these wines. But they are also being released sooner. Much broader in the mouth, with a distinct cinnamon edge that morphs into a disulfide character further into the finish. Very interesting stuff. This may evolve for years and be very long-lived.
$130
Melded, sexy, nose of oak spices, earth and cherry coulis. Getting more sumptuous as it airs.
Round, broad and mouthcoating, with an edge of acidity and sulfides keeping everything in check. Not at all flamboyant at this point. Quite structured, in fact, with acid/sulfide edge dominating the finish and coating the front teeth in finely ground "chew". This will be interesting to watch over the next 5-8 years.
Day 3- Great nose that shows significant oak influence, something I rarely see in these wines. But they are also being released sooner. Much broader in the mouth, with a distinct cinnamon edge that morphs into a disulfide character further into the finish. Very interesting stuff. This may evolve for years and be very long-lived.
$130
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero 2004
Deep purple/red.
Suave, toasty marshmallow oak, macaroon and black fruit custard nose.
Intense and deep, with acid-driven structure framing deeply concentrated flavors immediately. Loaded, with a plush black fruit and oak spice mid-palate. Structure intermittently interrupts finish.
As good as this is, you wonder what a bit of Cabernet Franc, Graciano or Garnacha (or Malvasia) might do for this wine. Pesquera too.
$50 gift. 100% Tempranillo.
Suave, toasty marshmallow oak, macaroon and black fruit custard nose.
Intense and deep, with acid-driven structure framing deeply concentrated flavors immediately. Loaded, with a plush black fruit and oak spice mid-palate. Structure intermittently interrupts finish.
As good as this is, you wonder what a bit of Cabernet Franc, Graciano or Garnacha (or Malvasia) might do for this wine. Pesquera too.
$50 gift. 100% Tempranillo.
Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2005
Murky purple/red.
Broad/thick nose - coconut/black fruit custard, earth and suave oak spices.
Really covers the mouth, initially, then strong acidity and moderate tannin dive in. Pretty constricted in the mid-palate, presently, but flavors eventually wiggle out. Definitely needs a few years to strut. Opened yesterday.
$25
Broad/thick nose - coconut/black fruit custard, earth and suave oak spices.
Really covers the mouth, initially, then strong acidity and moderate tannin dive in. Pretty constricted in the mid-palate, presently, but flavors eventually wiggle out. Definitely needs a few years to strut. Opened yesterday.
$25
Hiedler "Thal" Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2006
Straw.
Smoky, popcorn/creamed corn nose currently dominated by sulfides. But actually attractive, particularly for white Burgundy people. Herbs and citrus/pear underneath. Sulfide character receding with air and warming.
Intense, bright flavors are all over the map - sulfide/skunk, lemon, fresh apple, fresh herbs. Jesus. Definitely has RS to fill in the mid-palate and extend the finish. But there's so much mineral/phenolic/sulfide "chew" you really don't notice. Wild, killer action.
$30, screwcap, 14% alcohol listed
Smoky, popcorn/creamed corn nose currently dominated by sulfides. But actually attractive, particularly for white Burgundy people. Herbs and citrus/pear underneath. Sulfide character receding with air and warming.
Intense, bright flavors are all over the map - sulfide/skunk, lemon, fresh apple, fresh herbs. Jesus. Definitely has RS to fill in the mid-palate and extend the finish. But there's so much mineral/phenolic/sulfide "chew" you really don't notice. Wild, killer action.
$30, screwcap, 14% alcohol listed
Yeringberg, Marsanne(67%)/Roussanne(33%), Yarra Valley 2001
Light yellow.
Delicate almond paste, pineapple and spiced apple nose. There's also a Marsanne "thickness" you can smell.
Bright lemon/pineapple lift, with a Syrah-like menthol/licorice undertone. Then almond paste and lemon on the long, minerally finish. Much fresher than you'd guess. Vibrant, in fact. Keeps changing too..
Very interesting, suave, action from a cool-climate region in Australia.
$35
Delicate almond paste, pineapple and spiced apple nose. There's also a Marsanne "thickness" you can smell.
Bright lemon/pineapple lift, with a Syrah-like menthol/licorice undertone. Then almond paste and lemon on the long, minerally finish. Much fresher than you'd guess. Vibrant, in fact. Keeps changing too..
Very interesting, suave, action from a cool-climate region in Australia.
$35
Monday, December 1, 2008
Quinta do Vallado, Douro "Reserva" 2003
Purple/red.
Grilled meat/toasty oak (though suave at this point) and dark chocolate nose. Deep, with a very intense, roasted, black currant jam undertone.
Very dense/concentrated, mouth-coating impression. Huge and chewy, but has essentially no delineation of flavor. Needs the lamb stew I had last night.
Day 4 - Deep, but is now a bit flat. Roasted in the mouth too. Hot vintage, best to drink this now.
$45. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), both Tourigas, Tinta Amarela and Souzao.
Grilled meat/toasty oak (though suave at this point) and dark chocolate nose. Deep, with a very intense, roasted, black currant jam undertone.
Very dense/concentrated, mouth-coating impression. Huge and chewy, but has essentially no delineation of flavor. Needs the lamb stew I had last night.
Day 4 - Deep, but is now a bit flat. Roasted in the mouth too. Hot vintage, best to drink this now.
$45. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), both Tourigas, Tinta Amarela and Souzao.
Montirius, Vacqueyras "Garrigues" 2005
Red/purple.
Clay/earth, black fruit custard and sexy oak spice nose. Deep, loaded.
Round, plush entry is simultaneously framed by mineral/acid/tannin structure. Chewy, but black fruit and licorice flavors sail on. Two tracks. VGS. Subtle garrigue notes (stem inclusion?) hit late. Packed, and needs of several years of cellaring.
$25
Clay/earth, black fruit custard and sexy oak spice nose. Deep, loaded.
Round, plush entry is simultaneously framed by mineral/acid/tannin structure. Chewy, but black fruit and licorice flavors sail on. Two tracks. VGS. Subtle garrigue notes (stem inclusion?) hit late. Packed, and needs of several years of cellaring.
$25
Yalumba "MGS" Barossa Valley 2004
Purple/red.
White pepper/juniper, earth, black fruit nose.
Zesty white pepper/juniper in the mouth, too. There's a citrus zest (orange) component as well as a bit of textural "give". Not fat, but not brutal either. Very tasty, very well-made. Francophiles would like this.
Day 4 - Deeper and savory aromatically, with juniper white pepper now lifting the tail end. Really good, vibrant action.
$28. 60% Mourvedre, 22% Grenache, 18% Shiraz
White pepper/juniper, earth, black fruit nose.
Zesty white pepper/juniper in the mouth, too. There's a citrus zest (orange) component as well as a bit of textural "give". Not fat, but not brutal either. Very tasty, very well-made. Francophiles would like this.
Day 4 - Deeper and savory aromatically, with juniper white pepper now lifting the tail end. Really good, vibrant action.
$28. 60% Mourvedre, 22% Grenache, 18% Shiraz
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