Light, slightly dull, red.
Moderate intensity nose - game/earth/iron, spicy ketchup, nut.
Broad and mouth-filling, with an acid edge. Spicy ketchup and iron flavors. Still has good mid-palate flesh, but needs drinking (though something tells me this will be better with another day). Increasingly structured as it sits.
$12 on release
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Tardieu-Laurent, Hermitage 2001
Deep red, some rust.
Not as wild as the Cornas - oak spice, caramel, herbs, breakfast sausage, black raspberry nose. Though, as it airs, it does resemble it, but a bit more refined.
Deeper in the mouth, but not as expressive at the moment. Smoke and herbs the dominant flavors, with acid-edge cutting into the mid-palate. Deep, smoky character re-emerges, but this isn't shaking the fun stuff yet. I'm not sure it's better than the Cornas VV.
$80
Not as wild as the Cornas - oak spice, caramel, herbs, breakfast sausage, black raspberry nose. Though, as it airs, it does resemble it, but a bit more refined.
Deeper in the mouth, but not as expressive at the moment. Smoke and herbs the dominant flavors, with acid-edge cutting into the mid-palate. Deep, smoky character re-emerges, but this isn't shaking the fun stuff yet. I'm not sure it's better than the Cornas VV.
$80
Tardieu-Laurent, Cornas "Vieilles Vignes" 2001
Deep red, some rust.
Smoke, wilted greens, bacon/breakfast sausage, oak spice, ketchup nose. Killer. Iron shows late.
Round and full in the mouth. Middle-weight, flavors mirroring nose. Extremely long finish. Acid/tannin synergy starts to clamp down late, but does not kill flow. Smoky/herb/sausage flavors just keep going.
$50
Smoke, wilted greens, bacon/breakfast sausage, oak spice, ketchup nose. Killer. Iron shows late.
Round and full in the mouth. Middle-weight, flavors mirroring nose. Extremely long finish. Acid/tannin synergy starts to clamp down late, but does not kill flow. Smoky/herb/sausage flavors just keep going.
$50
Monday, January 26, 2009
Thackrey Sirius (Petite Sirah) Eaglepoint Ranch 2001
Purple/red.
Smoky, savory oak, lightly baked black fruit (reminds me of RdD), slightly volatile, slightly saline nose.
Round and generous in the mouth, with a nice, framing, acid-edge. Tannin is surprisingly tame. A bit of eucalyptus, but nothing crazy. Not at all a monster, refined and very enjoyable.
$60
Smoky, savory oak, lightly baked black fruit (reminds me of RdD), slightly volatile, slightly saline nose.
Round and generous in the mouth, with a nice, framing, acid-edge. Tannin is surprisingly tame. A bit of eucalyptus, but nothing crazy. Not at all a monster, refined and very enjoyable.
$60
Friday, January 23, 2009
Dominio de Atauta, Ribera del Duero 2001
Deep red.
Smoky, meaty, earthy (slight VA?) nose.
Easy-going in the mouth, with a saline edge. Pepper and meat broth flavors, tempered by fairly strong acidity and moderate tannin.
$35 From a cooler zone of RdD.
Smoky, meaty, earthy (slight VA?) nose.
Easy-going in the mouth, with a saline edge. Pepper and meat broth flavors, tempered by fairly strong acidity and moderate tannin.
$35 From a cooler zone of RdD.
Domaine Servin "Les Pargues" Chablis 2006
Yellow.
Spiced apple, hazelnut. Deep and reasonably vibrant (opened yesterday).
Very deep lime and nut/earth flavors. Mineral/acid chew really kicks in on the finish. Not hard at all, as there is plenty of mid-palate flesh.
$30 Saranex (slightly higher O2) screwcap
Spiced apple, hazelnut. Deep and reasonably vibrant (opened yesterday).
Very deep lime and nut/earth flavors. Mineral/acid chew really kicks in on the finish. Not hard at all, as there is plenty of mid-palate flesh.
$30 Saranex (slightly higher O2) screwcap
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Ruby red.
Moderate intensity nose - tar/asphalt, earth, savory nut, red cherry jam. Refined action.
Suave middle-weight in the mouth. No hard edges, but quite concentrated, with a light grainy feel in the finish. Something about the symmetry here reminds me of Clos des Papes. Pepper and licorice emerging with air.
$70
Moderate intensity nose - tar/asphalt, earth, savory nut, red cherry jam. Refined action.
Suave middle-weight in the mouth. No hard edges, but quite concentrated, with a light grainy feel in the finish. Something about the symmetry here reminds me of Clos des Papes. Pepper and licorice emerging with air.
$70
Mas de la Deveze, Cotes du Roussillon Villages "Vieilles Vignes" 2004
Purple/red.
Shoe polish and slightly baked black fruit on the deep nose. Reminds me of Priorat a bit, but this smells fatter.
Deep, slightly confectionary, packed impression in the mouth. Now reminds me of the best Rhone stuff from Paso, but the alcohol is lower. Not complex, but gutsy and very deep and long.
$30
Shoe polish and slightly baked black fruit on the deep nose. Reminds me of Priorat a bit, but this smells fatter.
Deep, slightly confectionary, packed impression in the mouth. Now reminds me of the best Rhone stuff from Paso, but the alcohol is lower. Not complex, but gutsy and very deep and long.
$30
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret "Cuvee Exceptionnelle" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Deep red.
Deep black cherry jam, clay/earth, herbs and (oak?) spice nose.
Intense, linear entry. Almost abrasive, tight-fisted garrigue/earth and black cherry flavors. Mid-palate flavors ride on strong acidity. If there's oak here, it doesn't show in the mouth. Deep and loaded, but very tight at the moment.
Day 4 - Deep and savory nose now. Round and plush in the mouth, with a light garrigue "edge" keeping things lively. Nothing abrasive now, though well-structured. Good buy.
$38.
Deep black cherry jam, clay/earth, herbs and (oak?) spice nose.
Intense, linear entry. Almost abrasive, tight-fisted garrigue/earth and black cherry flavors. Mid-palate flavors ride on strong acidity. If there's oak here, it doesn't show in the mouth. Deep and loaded, but very tight at the moment.
Day 4 - Deep and savory nose now. Round and plush in the mouth, with a light garrigue "edge" keeping things lively. Nothing abrasive now, though well-structured. Good buy.
$38.
Monday, January 12, 2009
Artadi "Vinas de Gain" 2004 Rioja
Purple/red.
Earth/nut, custard, citrus/pepper aromas.
Intense citrus entry (orange/grapefruit), pepper. Strong acidity attacks the mid-palate, shutting down any real pleasure. Tough sledding, but citrus/pepper action reemerges in the mineral/chew finish.
$25
Earth/nut, custard, citrus/pepper aromas.
Intense citrus entry (orange/grapefruit), pepper. Strong acidity attacks the mid-palate, shutting down any real pleasure. Tough sledding, but citrus/pepper action reemerges in the mineral/chew finish.
$25
Achaval-Ferrer, Malbec, Mendoza 2006
Purple.
Licorice, hazelnut, menthol, game aromatics. Reminds me of - (really good Central Coast) Syrah.
Deeper, more packed than Las Hormigas, but not as refined. This has soul, however. A bit dis-jointed in the finish, but will benefit from 2-4 years of aging. Nice length. Acidity drives light tannin onto the front teeth.
$16
Licorice, hazelnut, menthol, game aromatics. Reminds me of - (really good Central Coast) Syrah.
Deeper, more packed than Las Hormigas, but not as refined. This has soul, however. A bit dis-jointed in the finish, but will benefit from 2-4 years of aging. Nice length. Acidity drives light tannin onto the front teeth.
$16
Altos las Hormigas, Malbec, Mendoza 2007
Purple/red.
Savory earth/nut aromas, baked blackberry confection underneath.
Round and suave, with subliminal acid edge firming things. Extremely well-made, seamless and reasonably long. Amazing what a great enologist can do for you (Attilio Pagli in this case). I'm again reminded of coolish climate Syrah - a menthol/licorice character.
Day 7 - Fat and chocolatey. Showing some oxidation.
$10. Stupid deal, but drink it over the next year - synthetic cork.
Savory earth/nut aromas, baked blackberry confection underneath.
Round and suave, with subliminal acid edge firming things. Extremely well-made, seamless and reasonably long. Amazing what a great enologist can do for you (Attilio Pagli in this case). I'm again reminded of coolish climate Syrah - a menthol/licorice character.
Day 7 - Fat and chocolatey. Showing some oxidation.
$10. Stupid deal, but drink it over the next year - synthetic cork.
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Heath Wines "Southern Sisters" Clare Valley, Reserve Riesling 2005
Light yellow.
Wax/petrol nose, grapefruit underneath.
Fully-flavored for an Oz Riesling, citrus-central with a CO2 zestiness. Huge mineral chew on the back end. There's undoubtedly RS here somewhere, but you'd never think it. Opened yesterday, colder, and showed more vibrant fruit, but less depth. Anyone who loves Riesling would find a place in their heart for this. The citrus/chew finish here never seems to let up. I've got it rocking my front teeth several minutes later.
$18. Stupid deal.
Wax/petrol nose, grapefruit underneath.
Fully-flavored for an Oz Riesling, citrus-central with a CO2 zestiness. Huge mineral chew on the back end. There's undoubtedly RS here somewhere, but you'd never think it. Opened yesterday, colder, and showed more vibrant fruit, but less depth. Anyone who loves Riesling would find a place in their heart for this. The citrus/chew finish here never seems to let up. I've got it rocking my front teeth several minutes later.
$18. Stupid deal.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Clarendon Hills, Hickinbotham Vyd., Syrah, Clarendon 2002 (Australia)
Opaque purple.
Extroverted nose, particularly compared with Factor - menthol/eucalyptus, licorice, savory meat, oak spice, black raspberry. Sumptuous.
Completely packed and loaded in the mouth, grainy, no sense of sweetness. Flashes of raspberry, earth and a mineral/acid character. Finish just never stops, all raspberry, despite relatively strong acidity and moderate tannin. Totally killer.
Cigar in the empty glass.
Day 4 - Chambord and Amaretto nose now. You're dead if you don't love this. Very deep and slightly grainy/saline in the mouth. Acidity still out of whack, unfortunately.
$70
Extroverted nose, particularly compared with Factor - menthol/eucalyptus, licorice, savory meat, oak spice, black raspberry. Sumptuous.
Completely packed and loaded in the mouth, grainy, no sense of sweetness. Flashes of raspberry, earth and a mineral/acid character. Finish just never stops, all raspberry, despite relatively strong acidity and moderate tannin. Totally killer.
Cigar in the empty glass.
Day 4 - Chambord and Amaretto nose now. You're dead if you don't love this. Very deep and slightly grainy/saline in the mouth. Acidity still out of whack, unfortunately.
$70
Torbreck "The Factor" (Shiraz) Barossa Valley 2002
Opaque, hazy, purple.
Beautiful aromas of spice/pepper, hazelnut, savory "stuff". No sign of overt Brett character.
Deep, plush and a bit of textural sweetness. All low-key, understated. Figs and spice. Relatively strong acidity as the main structural feature. Long, subtle, fig and iron finish.
Day 4 - More open, great hazelnut/creosote/dried fig aromas. Smells like a great sauce. Softer in the mouth now, no new oak trappings. Great equilibrium. Still, this doesn't freak me out.
$80
Beautiful aromas of spice/pepper, hazelnut, savory "stuff". No sign of overt Brett character.
Deep, plush and a bit of textural sweetness. All low-key, understated. Figs and spice. Relatively strong acidity as the main structural feature. Long, subtle, fig and iron finish.
Day 4 - More open, great hazelnut/creosote/dried fig aromas. Smells like a great sauce. Softer in the mouth now, no new oak trappings. Great equilibrium. Still, this doesn't freak me out.
$80
Magpie Estate "The Black Sock" Mourvedre, Barossa Valley 2004
Hazy purple/red.
Some sweaty, macaroon action on the nose suggests older American barrels, then earth/custard, iodine and a deep black fruit character that reminds me of Las Gravas.
Round, deep and plush, initially, with acidity moving in slowly. Not much clarity of flavor, but most won't mind. Fairly bound up in the finish.
Day 4 - Much better on the nose - no sweat. A baked fruit macaroon now. Very plush in the mouth, with moderate acid structure sneaking up on the finish. No doubt the screwcap has slowed evolution considerably. Very good Mourvedre, but unlikely to evolve into something special.
$28
Some sweaty, macaroon action on the nose suggests older American barrels, then earth/custard, iodine and a deep black fruit character that reminds me of Las Gravas.
Round, deep and plush, initially, with acidity moving in slowly. Not much clarity of flavor, but most won't mind. Fairly bound up in the finish.
Day 4 - Much better on the nose - no sweat. A baked fruit macaroon now. Very plush in the mouth, with moderate acid structure sneaking up on the finish. No doubt the screwcap has slowed evolution considerably. Very good Mourvedre, but unlikely to evolve into something special.
$28
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah 2006 (Sonoma Coast)
Purple/black.
Iodine, menthol, licorice, fig, savory meat on the crazy/killer nose.
Extremely deep and loaded in the mouth as well, with a bit more refinement than usual. Huge mid-palate material. Chewy tannin finally makes an appearance well into the finish. Real wine, in need of a few more years in the bottle. California Cornas?
Day 4 - Pretty funny - tasting this after Factor and Clarendon Hills. There's a balls out effort here that just obliterates the other two. No BS acid ajustment, no pretty stuff, just the real deal. It's no wonder I always see Pax in Bastide Blanche and vice versa. This stuff rocks hard.
Day 7 - See day 4. Crazy, deep, visceral action, like Odetta's "Another Man Done Gone".
$50
Iodine, menthol, licorice, fig, savory meat on the crazy/killer nose.
Extremely deep and loaded in the mouth as well, with a bit more refinement than usual. Huge mid-palate material. Chewy tannin finally makes an appearance well into the finish. Real wine, in need of a few more years in the bottle. California Cornas?
Day 4 - Pretty funny - tasting this after Factor and Clarendon Hills. There's a balls out effort here that just obliterates the other two. No BS acid ajustment, no pretty stuff, just the real deal. It's no wonder I always see Pax in Bastide Blanche and vice versa. This stuff rocks hard.
Day 7 - See day 4. Crazy, deep, visceral action, like Odetta's "Another Man Done Gone".
$50
JC Vizcarra, Ribera del Duero 2006
Saturated purple.
Perfumed black fruit nose with oak spice, earth and a bit of macaroon. Smells dense and plush.
Really deep/concentrated black fruit entry. Mid-palate and finish largely shut down by a wave of strong acidity that doesn't let up. There's some intriguing herb action too.
Day 7 - No oxidation. As might be expected, much better integration. A Depression-worthy wine, loaded and cheap.
$25. 100% Tempranillo, 2800' elevation in Burgos (eastern, cooler, part of RdD)
Perfumed black fruit nose with oak spice, earth and a bit of macaroon. Smells dense and plush.
Really deep/concentrated black fruit entry. Mid-palate and finish largely shut down by a wave of strong acidity that doesn't let up. There's some intriguing herb action too.
Day 7 - No oxidation. As might be expected, much better integration. A Depression-worthy wine, loaded and cheap.
$25. 100% Tempranillo, 2800' elevation in Burgos (eastern, cooler, part of RdD)
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Guigal, Lieu-Dit St. Joseph, Blanc 2004
Yellow/slight gold.
Deep, low-toned, "thick" nose. Honey, marzipan. Hints of pear and citrus.
Thick and loaded in the mouth, with just enough (floral?) freshness. Long and deep. There really isn't anything like Marsanne from the northern Rhone. Though there may be some Roussanne here too. Needs a cup of hot fat.
$35
Deep, low-toned, "thick" nose. Honey, marzipan. Hints of pear and citrus.
Thick and loaded in the mouth, with just enough (floral?) freshness. Long and deep. There really isn't anything like Marsanne from the northern Rhone. Though there may be some Roussanne here too. Needs a cup of hot fat.
$35
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