Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Alban Roussanne Edna Valley 2004 (Estate)

Light, unfiltered, yellow.

Citrus and white peach, smoke and popcorn - all low-key, quite subtle.

Quite concentrated and intense in the mouth, but has great acid/phenolic chew that keeps flavors fresh and delineated.
This reminds me very much of a killer Burgundian-styled Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast. Minerally and even has a petrol nuance in the finish. I've often found Alban whites to be too much, but this is an entirely different animal.

Truffle/sulfide action too.




$35? Can't remember

Friday, April 6, 2007

Peyre Rose "Clos des Cistes" Coteaux du Languedoc 1995

Deep red, garnet rim.

Subtle nose that seems to show a Bordeaux-like oak integration, even though I'm fairly certain that this was raised in tank.
Very light hint of game, red cherry liqueur, Frangelico and pepper. Quite attractive, seductive not overpowering.
Aromatic range expanding significantly with air.


Light/medium-bodied in the mouth, nice fruit sweetness in the mouth, tempered by acid-driven tannin. Flavor inpact is substantial, yet subtle, which sounds ridiculous. Wonderfully idiosyncratic wine, from a woman who painted her winery pink.

This definitely needs air.

Mostly Syrah with a bit of Grenache (I think).


$ 35?

Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1990

Red, garnet rim.

Subtle, savory meat character (duck?), iron, cherry liqueur, forest floor - and sensory overload. I can't articulate everything that's going on aromatically. I'm reminded of Marcassin's '98 Marc Vyd Pinot (the best red wine I have ever tasted).

Iron and tannin in the mouth. This bottle was not cellared properly for several years, and that no doubt contributes to the lack of flesh in the mouth.

It is incredible to me that this wine survived at all, and says a great deal about the longevity of Beaucastel's best vintages.



$?

Vietti Barbera d'Alba "Scarrone" 2004

Very deep red/purple.

Sumptuous, low-toned, oak spice/smoke, amaretto, savory meat and black fruit aromatics. The oak is very well integrated/seamless.


Interesting. Low-toned oak spice and hard grape candy flavors collide a bit with vibrant, Barbera-typical acidity. Good mid-palate flesh and length. This just needs a bit more time in bottle, but is already drinking very well.

One of the best Barberas I've tasted (Rivetti's included).


Day 4 - Balsamic notes now. Fleshy and integrated. Killer.


$33

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Rotes Tor 2005 Federspiel (Austria)

Bright, light yellow.

Vibrant aromas of grapefruit, spice, earth and pepper


Pungent flavors of grapefruit zest and very ripe grapefruit flesh, pear, pepper and a slight lentil note. Seems barely off-dry. Racy, pure and long. No sign of alcohol, just flavor chew. Federspiels are 12.5% and under, I think.

Great summer wine.

$25

Monday, April 2, 2007

Mogador 2000 Priorat (Spain)

Deep red.

More evolved nose than the Mas Doix - earth, sl. game, smoke, Grenache cherry/strawberry. Seamless and unforced.

Round and relatively generous in the mouth, particularly for Priorat. A characteristic of Mogador. Acidity seems definitely lower here, which makes the abundant tannin distinctly gentler. But Mas Doix, I think, is based on Carignan, which tends to be higher in acidity and less "giving".

Very interesting contrast. Both wines have aged well and will continue to do so. But Mas Doix will benefit the most from extended cellaring.




$50

Mas Doix 2000 Priorat (Spain)

Vibrant, deep red/purple.

Shoe polish, deep black cherry coulis, myriad spice notes, and smoke on the nose. Beautifully integrated and complex.

Intense middle-weight in the mouth. Spice and red fruit flavors are deep, but linear. Still dominated by acid-driven tannin. But this drinks well now, particularly with some meat (cream/reduction sauce wouldn't hurt either). Better in another 5 years.

I think this needs air.



$55