Friday, September 19, 2008

Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2004 Bandol

Purple/red.

Woodsy/earthy nose. Iron and a bit of game too. Black fruit coulis and licorice underneath.

Round and dense in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy slowing constricting the sides of the tongue. A mouthful of earth and spice at the moment. Not as wild in the mouth as it is on the nose. Constriction/chew now reaching the front teeth and gums.

Opened yesterday.

$25

Guigal, Lieu-Dit St. Joseph, Blanc 2006

Straw, slight copper.

Reticent nose - almond extract and light pepper. Maybe white peach too.

Round, but well-delineated, with moderate acidity. There's a very fine suggestion of mineral. In fact, this seems light-weight compared to some previous vintages. But it has Tanzer's "sneaky" flavor length. Gets deeper as it warms in the glass. Caramel and marzipan finish. Long and fine.

Opened yesterday

$50. All Marsanne, I think.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Mogador 2005 Priorat (Spain)

Purple/red.

Vivid black and blueberry coulis, deep earth, oak nut - pure and stupidly deep aromatics. Never had a Mogador like this.

Deep, sweet black raspberry entry, with other aromatic notes providing flavor shavings. "Mineral" struture shuts down front and side teeth. Time will tell ... but this has all the right stuff.

Day 4 - Blueberry pastry, brown sugar aromatics. Still primary rasp/blueberry action in the mouth, with earth and oak spice in the background. Huge teethcoating "minerality" on the finish. Need a time machine - what will this be like in 10 years? Will it actually be "better"?

$75

Pax "Cuvee Christine" Syrah, Sonoma County 2004

Opaque purple.

Extremely deep, low-toned nose - dried fig, slow-roasted meat, melted licorice, menthol, oak spice (?).
In my mind these wines routinely mock the ridiculous simplicity of most Syrah/Shiraz.

Nose mirrored in the mouth - deep, low-toned, with structural tannin/stem(?) chew dominating. Acidity is a mirage. This needs time, though. Quite constricted in the finish.

Day 4 - Melted licorice oozing out of the glass. Still constricted, but licorice and dried fig sauce drive through. Need to see this again in 4-5 years.

$50

Pesquera, Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 2004

Purple/red.

Deep, killer nose - black pudding fruit, earth, integrated oak spice/toast, licorice and savory meat.

Round, with a suggestion of textural sweetness, but simultaneously taut. Not creamy, with acid/tannin attacking the side teeth. Black fruit depth manages to work through the structure. Impressive, age-worthy action. Purely rendered.

Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Deep, packed and structured. Killer action.

$45

Zind Humbrecht, Pinot Gris, Clos Windsbuhl 2003

Straw/light copper.

Nondescript jellied white fruit and spice nose.

Immense textural sweetness in the mouth, quickly put in its place by (seemingly) firm acidity. Not very interesting in the mouth, but does have a "mineral" edge that will please purists. Pure, in its own way, but lacks any real interest. This could use some botrytis.

16% alcohol, Indice 1 (dry)

$50 Opened yesterday.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

St. innocent, Shea Vyd., Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006

Light red.

Deeper black fruit aromas, even a suggestion of licorice. Maple and oak toast nuances.

Round, deep and sweet in the mouth, with black raspberry confection balanced nicely by strong acidity and light tannin that, again, coat the front teeth. Hard not to like this. This too will be better with several years in the cellar.


$45