Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Palliser Estate, Pinot Noir, Martinborough (NZ) 2007

Purple/red.

Vinturi. Wild, deep nose - Syrah-like smoked meat, earth, green herbs, black fruit - that is, nonetheless, well-integrated.

Green character slightly elevated in the mouth, then everything from nose follows. Smoky, meaty finish. Slightly chewy, but again, this is well put together. I'd love to see this thing in 5-7 years. For folks that think Pinot is wimpy.

Day 5 - Similar nose. Greener in the mouth, with acidity and smoky/char character completely out of sync. Hard to enjoy now. Something of a bound-up freak show. Tasting this just after cracking the seal on day 1, w/o the Vinturi, I thought this had never seen a day in wood (maybe staves in a tank..). Back to that theory now.

$25 screwcap

Swedish Hill, Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes 2005

Vibrant red.

Vinturi - complex, integrated, refined nose - Bordeaux herbs, red licorice, spice, cran/cherry, earth, tar.

Intense, vibrant, lean entry. Sea salt/brine, herb, cranberry flavors. I see no oak (flavor) influence. Light-weight. This reminds me of Nebbiolo. Definitely acid-driven. Good length. Really good action.


$18

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Pax "Obsidian" Syrah, Knights Valley 2004

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - killer Pax nose - deep menthol, melted licorice, grilled meat, light heat.

Round, saline and totally mouth-enveloping. Edgy, though, and again showing some back throat burn that probably has more to do with VA than alcohol. Shows the grainy concentration/chew that routinely sets these wines apart. Licorice flavor/chew just keeps going. This is dis-jointed a bit, and may always be so. But this is the kind of wine you go out of your way to accommodate with appropriate food.

$50

Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2003

Deep, slightly dull, red/purple.

(Vinturi) Deep, oozer nose - toasted nut sauce (? - don't go there), earth, brine, reduced black fruit.

Deep, packed, mouth-filling, but not "huge". Acid/tannin/sulfide synergy keeps this taut. No question about the raw material here. Not your typical S. Australian Shiraz - this will evolve for several more years, and drink well for many years thereafter (say 20+ from today).

$50

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Allegrini, Amarone 2000

Very deep, dull, red.

Hay, truffle/earth /nut reduction sauce aromas. Cherry jam in the background.

Very deep, packed impression is immediately countered by strong acid/tannin synergy. Mid-palate is lean, finish a bit brutal.

Vinturi = No hay. Truffle/amaretto/cherry jam aromas. Nice entry, and much better follow through, mid-palate to finish. But this doesn't have the concentration of the best vintages.

Day 3 - Deep truffle/earth/charcoal, amaretto, gravy nose. Still not cohesive in the mouth, lacks length/concentration.

$50

Edward Sellers, Paso Robles, Grenache 2005

Deep red.

Deep, rasp/cherry nose, low-key, but loaded. Earth/spice in the background.

Really plush and packed in the mouth, but no easy, superficial, "sweetness". Shows some heat and some back end acidity that throws it off track.

Vinturi = Beef broth/nut liqueur/sauce aromas. Heat and acidity more integrated, but remain.

Day 3 - Similar to day 1, less fruit, more earth. Now texturally sweet in the mouth, but still shows alcohol/acid spike in the finish.

$35 15.9% alcohol

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Juan Gil, Monastrell, Jumilla 2006

Purple.

Clay/earth, spicy blackberry nose.

Deep and intense with a saline sweetness that is immediately cut by strong acid/tannin synergy. Linear/lean, with flavors narrowing out in the finish. Needs some time, but this is loaded for a $16 bottle of wine.

Finally got a Vinturi - now shows much more depth on the nose, even some sumptuous umami action. Much rounder in the mouth, with black fruit riding through the mid-palate. Still acid-tight, but definitely displays more flavor action and give.

$16, Monastrell=Mourvedre. The back label says this was whole-cluster fermented and macerated for 25 days.