Sunday, February 7, 2010

John Duval Wines "Plexus" Barossa Valley 2004

Deep red.

Vinturi - this could only come from Oz - medicinal/meat/toasted nut/slight barnyard/black raspberry nose.

Round and completely plush/confectionary in the mouth. Nothing subtle about this now (much more discreet a couple of years ago). Shows a saline character, too. But I'm not sure this wasn't better a couple of years ago.


$38. From the long-time winemaker of Penfolds. 49% Shiraz, 27% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre.

Ecluse "Rendition" Paso Robles 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - saucy, sumptuous, deep, Paso nose - hazelnut sauce, earth, black fruit. Lacks clarity.

Deep and saucy in the mouth too, and very satisfying. But, again, this shows a blast of one thing, one note. Fun, but hard to enjoy for any length of time.


$40. 59% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 19% Mourvedre. 15.3% listed alcohol.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Walter Dacon, Syrah "Appanage" Boushey Vyds., Yakima Valley 2007

Red/purple.

Vinturi - smoked meat/smoky oak, earth/nut, black raspberry nose. Attractive, open.

Utterly round, mouth-filling, with just a touch of textural sweetness. Opulent, but nicely filled in, slightly grainy/saline impression. Not the deepest or most concentrated wine, but seamless and completely integrated. A beauty that will satisfy almost everyone - Oz meets the n. Rhone. RFG. Just a dusting of tannin on the front teeth to keep it real.


$45. 14.3% alcohol listed.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Thackrey "Sirius" Eaglepoint Ranch (Mendocino) 2001

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - very sexy, sumptuous nose - toasty oak, macaroon, grilled meat, earth and black fruit - reminds me of Mariano Garcia's Aalto from RdD.

Round, mouth-filling and powerful. Exceptionally attractive stuff - deep, even, plush. Even shows a hint of Thackrey's signature eucalyptus. I would never guess this was Petite Sirah. There's tannin here, but it's finely rendered (result of very long maceration? Well over 30 days, approaching 60, if I remember correctly). TFK.


$50.

Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Fontanieu" Bandol 2001

Purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, complex, nose - clay/earth, tree bark, oak spice (but there isn't any new oak here), blackberry, licorice, pepper and a medicinal note.

Round and dense in the mouth, with excellent mid-palate depth. Shows a bit of heat, but nothing crazy. Grainy tannin hits quite late and never quashes flavor flow, which is all black (fruit, licorice) with medicinal character repeating. Front teeth get a bit chewy, though. I wonder when this thing will peak? 5-8 more years?


$25 on release. Just got some '07, which is $28, and still stupidly cheap. 15.5% alcohol listed. 100% Mourvedre.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Tardieu-Laurent "Vieilles Vignes" Cornas 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - crazy, cool, nose - smoke/breakfast sausage, spicy ketchup, wilted greens, potato/earth.

Round and texturally sweet, initially, then chewy stem tannin kicks in to firm things up quickly. But this has very nice mid-palate flesh to buffer structural load. Structure and flavor riding on two parallel tracks. This is FK. Could drink this anytime. This needs some lamb cassoulet, or Caldo Verde from Portugal. Long, chewy, greens/meat/earth finish.


$65.

Clape, Cornas 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - integrated, complex nose - black raspberry, fig, herbs, licorice, savory earth/nut/spice. Self-contained, subtle.

Mouth-filling and round, with tannin barely noticeable at the periphery of the mouth. Very suave and sexy, especially for Cornas. Tannin builds a bit, but never becomes intrusive. You could actually enjoy this on its own. But the best bet is something simple like grilled lamb sausage.


$50. 100% Syrah from the northern Rhone.