Thursday, May 29, 2008

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Light, hazy red.

Nut liqueur, cherry pit, earth and licorice nose.

Round, sweet entry, with edgy acidity a bit awkward initially. Intense cherry and spice flavors seem bound up. This thing needs to sit.

Day 2 - Much more open in the mouth - cherry jam, spice/earth, and, well, it's still bound up. A hint of a tidal/chlorine character in the finish says this is still in need of air time. Getting there - slowly.

Day 4 - Deeper pool of cherry fruit/jam on the nose - sumptuous. Open for businessin the mouth, too. Very deep cherry, earth and a garrigue nuance. Still taut, with a strong spine of acid-driven tannin, but flavors manage to navigate though it all.
This needs to sit for several more years, and may drink well for a ridiculously long time.

$40

Las Rocas Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Catalayud (Spain) 2003

Deep red.

Forward, slightly musky/boring fruit aromas, with cool stuff (citrus/spice/nuts) lurking in the background. Thankfully expressed more as the wine airs. All kinds of stuff now - mint, peanut, black raspberry, orange zest and meat. Floral action too. I'm reminded of killer Aussie Grenache.

Very intense, neither round nor sweet, citrus peel vivacity that will not let up. Spicy tomato and a hint of garrigue, but really driven by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Coats the front teeth in citrus chew. Crazy, intense action. Will this develop complexity in the mouth? Long finish finally reveals the pepper side of citrus.

Day 4 - All black raspberry, nut liqueur and earth on the nose now. Doesn't suck. Then intense citrus peel flavor in the mouth with corresponding citrus chew coating the front teeth. This is almost abrasive in its citric intensity - some folks will shoot a nasty biscuit - but I think it rocks.

$16, major deal.

Lesec, Vacqueyras "Vieilles Vignes" 2000

Deep red.

Spicy tomato, garrigue, smoke and potato/earth nose. Hint of blood/iron also.

Round, spicy entry, with strong acidity and reasonably fine tannin providing the framework. Iron, garrigue flavors resonate throughout. Quite long, just not refined or nuanced. Very southern Rhone - surprising - as I remember this being quite fruit driven and plush in its youth. New oak, I thought back then, but no sign of it now.

Day 4 - Wild, lifted, nose now - dried herbs, cracked black pepper, orange zest, earth. Reminds me, to some extent, of a cool-climate Aussie Shiraz. Then a hint of wilted herbs and potato in the mouth (N. Rhone?), slight oxidation.

A great deal. Lesec makes wine simply, and when it works (minimal Brett influence), the wines can be killer.

$25

Alban, Viognier, Edna Valley 2006 (Estate)

Light yellow. Unfiltered.

Lichee candy, slight caramel and pear on the nose. Reticent.

Then intense, spicy, canned peach, sweet, yet structured, texture and lichee candy in the mouth. There's an unobtrusive acid/phenolic edge to this that keeps everything taut. Quite long apricot/peach/lichee action in the finish. The alcohol seems very much in check, particularly as the wine warms. Chewy peach/clove/lichee flavor won't quit.

Day 4 - Huge today, very expressive, with slight heat that is easy to forgive. Very long.

16.2% alcohol listed, and it seems to work just fine. Should come with a warning label.



$40

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Finca Sandoval, Manchuela (Spain) 2002

Deep purple/red.

Toasty oak, hazelnut, black raspberry and licorice on the nose.

Round and slightly sweet, texturally, with black raspberry, nut and spice flavors kept taut by fairly strong acidity and moderate tannin. Very nice depth and refinement in the mid-palate, which is also slightly dis-jointed. Structure really intrudes on the finish, but I think this simply needs more time.

Day 2 - Now this is getting complicated on the nose - savory meat/game, earth, suave oak toast, hint of spearmint and cracked pepper. Aromas are deep, sauce-like. Intense pepper/spice chew in the mouth, bound up in the mid-palate and finish. Pepper flavor rides the whole track, little sign of fruit now, although there is a suggestion of citrus.

Later - I get a cherry jam, savory oak and spice character that reminds me of new-wave Barolo. All over the place.

Victor de la Serna's (Spanish wine critic) first release. 91% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre

$40

Clarendon Hills, Astralis Vyd., Syrah, Clarendon 2002 (Australia)

Deep purple/red.

Fresh, lifted white and black pepper, deep blackberry/raspberry coulis, earth and a seamless oak contribution. For some reason, I am reminded of a Thackrey Orion. Killer nose. Hints of game, black olive and dried fig with air.

Utterly round and completely mouth-enveloping, with a saline character. Expresses both pepper colors in the mouth too, as well as a eucalyptus note (Thackrey connection) and toasted nuts. Fruit definitely in the background, as relatively strong, but fine, acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish. Then both peppers and black raspberry coulis flavors come back in force on an extremely long finish.

Completely different in character, but on the same level as the Blue-Slide Pinot from Marcassin. All kinds of shit coming out of the woodwork as the wine airs. Just absolutely stupid.

Day 2 - Now much less vivid on the nose, more saucy. The deep pool of black raspberry fruit more jam-like in character, and the overall impression much more South Australian in nature. Really packed in the mouth, but, again, less sign of the pepper action from yesterday. Huge volume, less nuance. But, just like yesterday, when you think this thing is done, it kicks in again with cracked black pepper. Crazy. This thing has nine lives.


$200, 14.5% alcohol listed (and I'd guess pretty accurate, no heat).

Cayuse, Cailloux Vyd., Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2001

Deep red.

Smoke, smoked ham/bacon, earth, pepper aromatics. Black raspberry buried.

Round, mouth-coating, slightly grainy/saline entry. Middle-weight, with no suggestion of heat. Black raspberry more obvious in the mouth, with smoke and earth character complemented by a toasted nut barrel contribution. Rides pretty evenly throughout, picking up a tangy nuance on the finish.

Day 2 - Nose hasn't changed a great deal - just more integrated - with seared pork fat and toasted nut sauce as wholesome additions. This is something you want to eat. Creamy in the mouth now, with a tangy/saline edge that makes you salivate (more). Contained completely within its limits - deep, long and interesting.

$55