Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Paitin "Serra" Barbaresco 2007

Light ruby/garnet.

Opened 3 days ago - nose is still great - roasted hazelnut/almond, cherry jam, dried rose, leather...

Intense entry is simultaneously plush and rigid, thanks to great fruit concentration and serious acid/tannin synergy. Red cherry and spice flavors ride through it all. The real deal (and approachable now). Buy it and drink over the next 6-8 years.


$25. Stupid cheap.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Domaine du Mas Blanc "Clos du Moulin" Collioure 2007

Saturated purple/red.

Opened yesterday - wild nose - acrylic paint (daughter Claire's contribution), cinnamon stick, salt water taffy, black olive, dark chocolate, grilled meat, prune, blackberry, A1 steak sauce... Incredibly complex. Obviously. And smells "dense" too. Loaded.

Round and mouth-filling with crazy cinnamon stick flavor immediately taking over and adding "edge". Much less precise in the mouth, but has real weight and density without being ponderous. This has gained in depth considerably over the last couple of years, and I wouldn't be surprised to see it continue to improve for 4-5 more years and drink well for many more after that.


$28. A blend based on Mourvedre I believe. The south of France makes some of the world's most interesting, affordable wines.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah, Sonoma Coast 2006

Opaque purple/black.

Vinturi - Loaded, deep nose of menthol, melted licorice, kalamata olive, fig paste, toasted oak and brine.

Round, extremely deep and quite suave in the mouth. Absolutely loaded flavor pixel count. Grainy tannin suffuse palate. Saline character repeats in the mouth. Creamy, dense entry and mid-palate. This is FK and bound to improve with a couple more years in bottle.


$50. This is my favorite bottling of CA Syrah. Need to get some of the newer versions from Donelan...

Monday, September 26, 2011

Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Red with brick rim.

Opened yesterday - integrated, complex nose - iron, garrigue, earth/hazelnut, cherry liqueur.

Round, mouth-filling with great textural sweetness. Shows cherry coulis, grilled/dried herb and brazil nut flavors. Significant, sneaky, acid/tannin chew creeps up on the front teeth keeping textural generosity in check.. This is not a monster wine at all, but delivers considerable pleasure on every front. Beautiful stuff and RFG.


$50 on release. 2000 was a great year for Grenache in the southern Rhone and that is very obvious here.

Pax "Obsidian" Knights Valley 2003

Opaque red.

Opened yesterday - deep Kalamata olive, melted black licorice, grilled meat, grilled herb, dried fig nose. Deep and saucy.

Low-toned palate impression, huge depth in the mid-palate is reined in a bit by seemingly strongish acidity. Not nearly as expressive in the mouth, but still quite a mouthful. It will be interesting to see if this gains the flavor complexity promised by the nose. But I think most folks won't quibble on this point.


$60. 100% Syrah.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux 2006

Deep red.

Opened yesterday - expressive nose of embers, campfire, blackberry, black raspberry and fresh earth.

Round, with very nice mid-palate coverage. In fact, acid/tannin synergy shows quite late, but makes up for lost time in the finish. Acid-driven constriction shuts down the front of the mouth. Just needs a few more years in the cellar (4-6?).


$35.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Torbreck "Run Rig" Barossa Valley 1999

Deep red.

Vinturi - very attractive, refined nose - fig, black raspberry, mole, earth/corn, oak spice and grilled meat.

Intense, but not at all heavy. Flavors of red fruit, game/sausage/bacon, leather and spice are driven by relatively strong acidity. Tannin is moderate and fine. Subtle, persistent length. Classy, delineated action. Exactly what many of us think Barossa can't do..
RFG.

$90 on release. 97% Syrah, 3% Viognier.