Red/purple.
Integrated, vibrant nose - woodsmoke, potato/earth, embers, grapefruit zest, pepper, toasted nut. Distinctly Spanish, killer.
Round and extremely suave, then bright, with orange zest chew kicking in, with earth and pepper. Middle-weight, but loaded and intensely flavored. Crazily so, particularly for the $$. Just keeps churning out citric, front teeth-coating chew. No fat here.
This is killer/ridiculous value.
Day 3 - Great nose, integrated, sumptuous and fresh. Suave, intense in the mouth. Deeply flavored, with acid-driven structure
doing the Tanzer "thrust" thing. Stupidly good.
$20
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Friday, February 27, 2009
Denner, Grenache, Paso Robles 2006
Red/purple.
Toasty/sulfide/popcorn aromatics. Needs air. Deep.
Deep and quite concentrated in the mouth. Has real volume and flavor-pixel density. Chewy raspberry/sulfide length. I'd guess a bit of Syrah included here. New oak too, but not crazy.
Day 4 - Still sulfidey - but now earth/nut - with black raspberry underneath. Dense and packed and slightly sweet (textural).
Now this is pent up/brooding. Front teeth, acid-driven "chew". Turned the bottle over - 9% each Syrah and Counoise.
$35. 15.5% alcohol.
Toasty/sulfide/popcorn aromatics. Needs air. Deep.
Deep and quite concentrated in the mouth. Has real volume and flavor-pixel density. Chewy raspberry/sulfide length. I'd guess a bit of Syrah included here. New oak too, but not crazy.
Day 4 - Still sulfidey - but now earth/nut - with black raspberry underneath. Dense and packed and slightly sweet (textural).
Now this is pent up/brooding. Front teeth, acid-driven "chew". Turned the bottle over - 9% each Syrah and Counoise.
$35. 15.5% alcohol.
Villa Creek, Garnacha, Denner Vyd., Paso Robles 2006
Red.
Earth, toasted nut nose shows depth, with raspberry underneath.
Then round, sweet (texturally). But a bit pent up - this isn't as expressive as the 2005. This might end up showing more complexity, though, and is still very easy to enjoy.
Day 4 - Seems slightly volatile, but has nice depth of raspberry (red) on the nose. Extremely round and sexy sweet in the mouth. Now the raspberry fruit has the upper hand, earth in the back ground. Still shows restraint, though. Love to know what '06 was like in Paso. Cooler/unsettled?
$35. 15.9% alcohol.
Earth, toasted nut nose shows depth, with raspberry underneath.
Then round, sweet (texturally). But a bit pent up - this isn't as expressive as the 2005. This might end up showing more complexity, though, and is still very easy to enjoy.
Day 4 - Seems slightly volatile, but has nice depth of raspberry (red) on the nose. Extremely round and sexy sweet in the mouth. Now the raspberry fruit has the upper hand, earth in the back ground. Still shows restraint, though. Love to know what '06 was like in Paso. Cooler/unsettled?
$35. 15.9% alcohol.
Jalon, "Altos Las Pizarras" Garnacha VV, Catalayud 2005
Deep red.
Deep, savory nose - oak nut sauce/shoe polish/tar/black rasp-cherry.
Round, with a building textural sweetness, but shows simultaneous acid-driven focus. Nice refinement and power, ultimately the acidity shuts down the finish. Needs time - 3-4 years?
Day 4 - Shoe polish, fig nose, with deeper, darker, "painfully intense", stuff underneath. Packed, in a middle-weight way, but hardly giving. Will it ever "shake the fun stuff"? Or show real complexity? I doubt it.
$35. 11 months in 100% new French oak.
Deep, savory nose - oak nut sauce/shoe polish/tar/black rasp-cherry.
Round, with a building textural sweetness, but shows simultaneous acid-driven focus. Nice refinement and power, ultimately the acidity shuts down the finish. Needs time - 3-4 years?
Day 4 - Shoe polish, fig nose, with deeper, darker, "painfully intense", stuff underneath. Packed, in a middle-weight way, but hardly giving. Will it ever "shake the fun stuff"? Or show real complexity? I doubt it.
$35. 11 months in 100% new French oak.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Copain "Hawks Butte" Syrah 2003 (Yorkville Highlands)
Purple/red.
Major smoked meat/licorice/campfire, totally killer/sumptuous nose. Interestingly, this reminds me of the '03 Pax Syrahs.
A bit of restraint in the mouth, thanks to good acidity, but flavors essentially follow from the nose. Grainy concentration, no hint of alcohol. Full and loaded. Does not have the clarity/purity of the Chapoutier. But this shakes the fun stuff.
Wells Guthrie was apparently a consultant for Pax in the early years. The latest Copain Syrahs are much finer than this bottling, which is, in my view, lamentable.
Day 3 - No aromatic change, though I forgot to mention menthol earlier. Flows/oozes from the id - primal, gland action here.
$35
Major smoked meat/licorice/campfire, totally killer/sumptuous nose. Interestingly, this reminds me of the '03 Pax Syrahs.
A bit of restraint in the mouth, thanks to good acidity, but flavors essentially follow from the nose. Grainy concentration, no hint of alcohol. Full and loaded. Does not have the clarity/purity of the Chapoutier. But this shakes the fun stuff.
Wells Guthrie was apparently a consultant for Pax in the early years. The latest Copain Syrahs are much finer than this bottling, which is, in my view, lamentable.
Day 3 - No aromatic change, though I forgot to mention menthol earlier. Flows/oozes from the id - primal, gland action here.
$35
Chapoutier "Les Varonniers" Crozes-Emitage 2003
Red/purple.
Savory earth/nut paste, black raspberry coulis nose with an herb/celery undertone. Full, but well-defined.
Middle-weight impression - deep blackberry, licorice and oak spice flavors. Taut, mineral/acid structure. Again, well-defined, and built to age. But I must admit to admiring the wine more than "feeling" it, in complete contrast to the Copain.
Day 3 - It's probably the vintage (hot), but this now bears some resemblance to "modern" Chateauneuf. Black fruit (plum/raspberry) jelly, easy-going (but very deep) earth/nut aromatics. Ditto in the mouth, only a bit of acid-constriction and a very slight northern "green-ness" as a hint that this isn't from the south. This now lays claim to a hold on the "glands".
$45
Savory earth/nut paste, black raspberry coulis nose with an herb/celery undertone. Full, but well-defined.
Middle-weight impression - deep blackberry, licorice and oak spice flavors. Taut, mineral/acid structure. Again, well-defined, and built to age. But I must admit to admiring the wine more than "feeling" it, in complete contrast to the Copain.
Day 3 - It's probably the vintage (hot), but this now bears some resemblance to "modern" Chateauneuf. Black fruit (plum/raspberry) jelly, easy-going (but very deep) earth/nut aromatics. Ditto in the mouth, only a bit of acid-constriction and a very slight northern "green-ness" as a hint that this isn't from the south. This now lays claim to a hold on the "glands".
$45
Friday, February 20, 2009
Roc de Cambes, Cotes de Bourg (Bordeaux) 1998
Deep red.
Mellow, suave, herb and black fruit and toast nose Really attractive.
Round, light-weight impression in the mouth. Flavors mirroring nose, with a bit of iron thrown in. Very satisfying, very good length.
$40 on release
Mellow, suave, herb and black fruit and toast nose Really attractive.
Round, light-weight impression in the mouth. Flavors mirroring nose, with a bit of iron thrown in. Very satisfying, very good length.
$40 on release
Thursday, February 19, 2009
FX Pichler, Riesling, Loibner Berg, Smaragd 2002
Full yellow.
Grapefruit marmalade, earth nose. Deep, but not well-articulated.
Powerful, slightly sweet and deep in the mouth, with peach jelly and marmalade flavors. There's a roasted edge/cut that must come from a bit of botrytis. Mineral, tannic chew picks up on the long finish.
Day 5 - End of the bottle. Far better citrus zest cut, believe it or not, and better overall flavor and aromatic purity. Humorous - a white that gains clarity with several days of air.
$55
Grapefruit marmalade, earth nose. Deep, but not well-articulated.
Powerful, slightly sweet and deep in the mouth, with peach jelly and marmalade flavors. There's a roasted edge/cut that must come from a bit of botrytis. Mineral, tannic chew picks up on the long finish.
Day 5 - End of the bottle. Far better citrus zest cut, believe it or not, and better overall flavor and aromatic purity. Humorous - a white that gains clarity with several days of air.
$55
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Spring Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1987
Deep red/purple.
Killer earth/green herb/Bordeux weeds, blackcurrant, light tomato nose.
Really plush, deep, mouthfilling, with blackcurrant, herb and tomato repeating. Then fairly stiff acid/tannin synergy kicks in.
An eye-opener.
$50? Thanks to Mike and Bonnie Irwin for opening these wines this afternoon. This wine and the Belle Hermitage rattled my cage.
Killer earth/green herb/Bordeux weeds, blackcurrant, light tomato nose.
Really plush, deep, mouthfilling, with blackcurrant, herb and tomato repeating. Then fairly stiff acid/tannin synergy kicks in.
An eye-opener.
$50? Thanks to Mike and Bonnie Irwin for opening these wines this afternoon. This wine and the Belle Hermitage rattled my cage.
Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1990
Light red/rust.
Very evolved, subtle, complex nose - iron, earth, roasted nut, wax, cherry liqueur, spicecake, tomato.
Very light impression in the mouth. Round, mild textural sweetness, with a light acid edge framing things. Iron and woodsmoke finish.
$40 on release
Very evolved, subtle, complex nose - iron, earth, roasted nut, wax, cherry liqueur, spicecake, tomato.
Very light impression in the mouth. Round, mild textural sweetness, with a light acid edge framing things. Iron and woodsmoke finish.
$40 on release
Belle, Hermitage 1990
Deep red/purple, little sign of evolution.
Great smoky/sausage/light wilted green nose. Seamlessly integrated.
Round and fairly deep in the mouth, definitely middle-weight. This really expanded with air - the killer smoky/meaty thing repeating in the mouth. This was certainly one of the top two wines today. Deep and plush with a light, green edge of acidity.
$40 on release
Great smoky/sausage/light wilted green nose. Seamlessly integrated.
Round and fairly deep in the mouth, definitely middle-weight. This really expanded with air - the killer smoky/meaty thing repeating in the mouth. This was certainly one of the top two wines today. Deep and plush with a light, green edge of acidity.
$40 on release
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Deep red.
Cherry jelly, great spice (clove?) and fragrant earth/wood aromas. Smells deep and plush.
Round, deep and plush in the mouth with a spicy edge. Hint of spicy ketchup and textural sweetness in the finish. Really expanding with air.
$70
Cherry jelly, great spice (clove?) and fragrant earth/wood aromas. Smells deep and plush.
Round, deep and plush in the mouth with a spicy edge. Hint of spicy ketchup and textural sweetness in the finish. Really expanding with air.
$70
Acustic Cellar, Montsant (Spain) 2006
Deep purple/red.
Aromas of clay/earth, wax, black fruit jelly with a nice oak spice contribution.
Plush, full entry is firmed considerably by strongish acidity. Shows a slight baked character, but is quite concentrated and refined.
$45? Garnacha and Carinena.
Aromas of clay/earth, wax, black fruit jelly with a nice oak spice contribution.
Plush, full entry is firmed considerably by strongish acidity. Shows a slight baked character, but is quite concentrated and refined.
$45? Garnacha and Carinena.
Bella Luna, Estate Riserva "Bellicaia" Paso Robles 2005
Deep red.
Fragrant sawn wood, deep black cherry nose.
Plush and deep in the mouth, slightly baked. Very tasty.
$40? 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese
Fragrant sawn wood, deep black cherry nose.
Plush and deep in the mouth, slightly baked. Very tasty.
$40? 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Ogier, Cote Rotie 1999
Purple /red.
Wilted greens, breakfast sausage, deep earth and oak toast. Smells like Caldo Verde (Portuguese soup). Pepper and woodsmoke underneath. Flamboyant (for Cote Rotie) and sexy, but well-delineated.
Round and mouth-filling, with a green herb, acid, "edge" at the sides of the mouth. Sausage, wilted herb and woodsmoke repeating in the mouth. The real deal, quite ripe, but still has green herb/acid constriction keeping everything in check. Reminds me of T-L Cornas VV '01, but lighter in weight.
$55
Wilted greens, breakfast sausage, deep earth and oak toast. Smells like Caldo Verde (Portuguese soup). Pepper and woodsmoke underneath. Flamboyant (for Cote Rotie) and sexy, but well-delineated.
Round and mouth-filling, with a green herb, acid, "edge" at the sides of the mouth. Sausage, wilted herb and woodsmoke repeating in the mouth. The real deal, quite ripe, but still has green herb/acid constriction keeping everything in check. Reminds me of T-L Cornas VV '01, but lighter in weight.
$55
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2004
Straw.
Discreet, pure nose. Lemon, stone, light sulfide and caramel.
Packed in the mouth in a way that is difficult to describe - simultaneously fat, ripped, sweet (texturally) and mildly chewy/tannic. Lemon custard/creme caramel flavors both restrained and flagrant, as long as anything I've had in the last year or more. And that would be another wine from Marcassin. Absolutely FK. Power without weight - Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume" in spades.
$85. Stupidly great, and this isn't their best action.
Discreet, pure nose. Lemon, stone, light sulfide and caramel.
Packed in the mouth in a way that is difficult to describe - simultaneously fat, ripped, sweet (texturally) and mildly chewy/tannic. Lemon custard/creme caramel flavors both restrained and flagrant, as long as anything I've had in the last year or more. And that would be another wine from Marcassin. Absolutely FK. Power without weight - Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume" in spades.
$85. Stupidly great, and this isn't their best action.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Clos St. Jean, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Purple/red.
Clay/earth, deep black fruit (raspberry, cherry, plum) jelly and licorice nose.
Extremely concentrated and plush, with a simultaneous edge of acidity and slightly grainy tannin that doesn't distract. Great raw material and winemaking here. Seems to me that this must have a high percentage of Mourvedre. Ridiculously good "basic" Chateauneuf.
$30
Clay/earth, deep black fruit (raspberry, cherry, plum) jelly and licorice nose.
Extremely concentrated and plush, with a simultaneous edge of acidity and slightly grainy tannin that doesn't distract. Great raw material and winemaking here. Seems to me that this must have a high percentage of Mourvedre. Ridiculously good "basic" Chateauneuf.
$30
Rotllan Torra "Amadis" Priorat 2001
Deep red.
Rustic, but complex nose - earth, shoe polish, cherry jam, hay, meat/celery stew.
Intense, but lean, without overbearing structure. Odd, actually. Can't figure this out, almost in slow motion. Probably needs air time.
$45. From a 100 year old parcel of Grenache and Carignan
Rustic, but complex nose - earth, shoe polish, cherry jam, hay, meat/celery stew.
Intense, but lean, without overbearing structure. Odd, actually. Can't figure this out, almost in slow motion. Probably needs air time.
$45. From a 100 year old parcel of Grenache and Carignan
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah 2004 (Sonoma Coast)
Opaque, dull, purple.
Smoke, meat, earth, iodine, herbs and black fruit tucked underneath on the nose. Killer sumptuous.
Round, dense and completely mouth-coating, like paint. This doesn't have great delineation of flavor, but the grainy density is ridiculous. This thing chews through every gear in the mouth. Another wine for the soul from Pax. Yada, yada, whatever.
Day 4 - More open and crazy killer on the nose. A bit less impressive in the mouth, subtle signs of oxidation.
$55. Killer.
Smoke, meat, earth, iodine, herbs and black fruit tucked underneath on the nose. Killer sumptuous.
Round, dense and completely mouth-coating, like paint. This doesn't have great delineation of flavor, but the grainy density is ridiculous. This thing chews through every gear in the mouth. Another wine for the soul from Pax. Yada, yada, whatever.
Day 4 - More open and crazy killer on the nose. A bit less impressive in the mouth, subtle signs of oxidation.
$55. Killer.
Pax "Moriah" Sonoma County 2004
Deep red.
Confectionary nose- black raspberry jam, earth/truffle, shoe polish ... and other stuff. Not so confectionary with some air.
Round, suave and texturally sweet in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol, and a lack of delineation in the mid-palate. Loaded, though, as raspberry action kicks back in on the long finish and a medicinal note that shows in almost everything I get from Pax (old barrels?).
$60, 73% Grenache, 14% Mourvedre, 8% Syrah, 4% Counoise, 1% Roussanne. 15.9% alcohol.
Confectionary nose- black raspberry jam, earth/truffle, shoe polish ... and other stuff. Not so confectionary with some air.
Round, suave and texturally sweet in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol, and a lack of delineation in the mid-palate. Loaded, though, as raspberry action kicks back in on the long finish and a medicinal note that shows in almost everything I get from Pax (old barrels?).
$60, 73% Grenache, 14% Mourvedre, 8% Syrah, 4% Counoise, 1% Roussanne. 15.9% alcohol.
Arietta "H-Block" Hudson Vineyards, Napa Valley 2003
Opaque purple/red.
Fragrant, low-toned, woodsmoke, herb and blackcurrant nose. Deep, sumptuous.
Round and plush, with a mouth-filling quality that is quite rare. Very nice "inner-mouth perfume" (Tanzer). Acidity, initially, seems very low, structure dominated by reasonably fine-grained tannin. Impression of acidity picks up on the oak char dominated finish.
$75, Cabernet Franc/Merlot
Fragrant, low-toned, woodsmoke, herb and blackcurrant nose. Deep, sumptuous.
Round and plush, with a mouth-filling quality that is quite rare. Very nice "inner-mouth perfume" (Tanzer). Acidity, initially, seems very low, structure dominated by reasonably fine-grained tannin. Impression of acidity picks up on the oak char dominated finish.
$75, Cabernet Franc/Merlot
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne "Vieilles Vignes" Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Deep red.
Deep cherry liqueur, truffle, hazelnut nose. Hints of iron and dried herbs. Reminds me of Amarone to some extent.
Round, packed and sweet (texturally), at least initially. Then a chewy wave of tannin washes in, coating the front teeth in significant chew. Flavors ride on (dried herbs, iron, cherry jam). Shows some rusticity/rawness, like Pegau usually does. This isn't singing yet. I'd give it another 5-8 years.
$90
Deep cherry liqueur, truffle, hazelnut nose. Hints of iron and dried herbs. Reminds me of Amarone to some extent.
Round, packed and sweet (texturally), at least initially. Then a chewy wave of tannin washes in, coating the front teeth in significant chew. Flavors ride on (dried herbs, iron, cherry jam). Shows some rusticity/rawness, like Pegau usually does. This isn't singing yet. I'd give it another 5-8 years.
$90
Borsao, Garnacha "Tres Picos" 2007 (Campo de Borja)
Red/purple.
Deep, oak char/toasted marshmallow nose, with orange/grapefruit zest underneath.
Very suave, round and packed (particularly at this price) in the mouth. Citrus zest flavors move in from the edge of the mouth, as does a wave of acidity that provides focus without intruding. There's an immediate "fullness" here that I haven't seen in earlier vintages.
$14, great buy. And should improve with 2-3 years in the bottle.
Deep, oak char/toasted marshmallow nose, with orange/grapefruit zest underneath.
Very suave, round and packed (particularly at this price) in the mouth. Citrus zest flavors move in from the edge of the mouth, as does a wave of acidity that provides focus without intruding. There's an immediate "fullness" here that I haven't seen in earlier vintages.
$14, great buy. And should improve with 2-3 years in the bottle.
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