Copain Gary's Syrah 2004 (Santa Lucia Highlands)

Deep red/purple. Great, singular nose of toasted hazelnut/chestnut, subdued green veg/stem notes, citrus and a meaty character. Reminds me of Tardieu-Laurent VV Cornas. Smells like food more than fruit. Rich, but measured in the mouth. Aromas repeating in mouth. Serious tannin/acid structural constriction does little to impede flavors. Long and chewy. Great density. Holy shit, this is good.


$45 approx.

Artadi Vinas de Gain 2004 Rioja

Deep color. Very deep clay/earth, black licorice and black fruit aromas, low-pitched. Fleshy with an additional citrus character in the mouth that reminds me of Garnacha. Will most likely add a peppery note as it ages. Lacks only refined complexity. This is a ridiculous value at $25 approx.

Aalto 2001 Ribera del Duero

Big nose of grilled meat/mushroom reduction sauce, charcoal - definitely an umami-thing going on. Also has a custard character that I find very often in RdD wines. Really fills the mouth initially, then substantial grainy/chewy tannins kick in. Very good flavor persistence. Massive oak-influence, as with most of Mariano Garcia's wines, but this works well. Best version yet.


About $50

Etude 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon

Wonderful, refined, mouth-watering aromas of toast, grilled meat, charcoal, bricks and redcurrant. Very suave in the mouth.
Really has great tannic backbone, but the tannins are quite finely-grained and easy to overlook. California Bordeaux. Probably has several more years ahead of it, too.





$45 approx on release

Macchiole Paleo 2001 (100% C. Franc, Bolgheri, Italy)

Very deep black fruit/olive, chocolate and roasted oak oil nose. Herbs in the mouth with a grainy, chewy tannic structure. Tannic impression increases with air. Impressive, but I'm not sure how well this is going to integrate.

Day 3 - Tannin has integrated better than expected. Still a bit rustic, but that's C. Franc. Very concentrated. I'm not buying more, however.


$70 approx.

Havens Bourriquot 2001 (62% CF, 38% Merlot)

Dried oregano, chocolate, cherry pit aromatics. Nice sweetness in mouth, with fine acid/tannin structure. Suave, chocolate/cherry mid-palate. Very well-put together, harmonious wine. This should age beautifully for several more years.

$36 approx. Great value.

Copain 2004 Hacienda Secoya Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)

Light red. Underbrush, vibrant cran/raspberry, orange and mint nose. Leanish in the mouth, but flavors ride thru mid-palate. Very light touch, not fat at all. Minerally red-fruit acid-driven finish, nice length. Needs time to flesh out/unwind.


$40 approx.

Guigal 2004 Condrieu

Pale - platinum color. Very well-integrated, mellow oak, white peach/citrus nose and a N. Rhone waxy character. Understated, but very impressive follow-through in mid palate and very long. Surprising density with a tactile character in the mouth that really cuts through the sl sweet/creamy palate. This was tasted barely chilled (60F).

There are few New World Viogniers that can match the precision and lightness of touch here (though Kunin and Calera come to mind), particularly in view of the length/concentration of this wine. 2004 was apparently (Tanzer/Parker) a fantastic vintage for Condrieu. No argument.


$60 approx.

1/24/07 Pegau 2001 & Clos des Papes 2004 (last drops)

Appropriate that this blog should start with Chateauneuf. I have a decent stash of both wines back to '98 and am reasonably knowledgeable about their different styles, although I think these are evolving, much as most other producers are these days.

The Pegau '01 was marked by a dry herb/garrigue character that was a bit too aggressive for me initially (day 1, not decanted). Days 2 and 3 brought more integrated garrigue and sumptuous/confectionary kirsch/framboise notes. Obviously concentrated/packed wine that is finished in a style I now consider rustic, particularly compared with Clos des Papes.

$55 approx.

Clos des Papes '04 is right off the bottling line, no doubt. Showing very well from day 1 - pure, Burgundian-like fruit and fat. Not as complex, yet, as the Pegau, but many years younger. Garrigue shows as a nuance amid waves of pure, measured fruit. The more I drink Clos d P the more I want to buy and drink more. But this sentiment really true only from 2000 on.


$55 approx.