Purple/black.
Huge pool of aromas - toasted coconut, spicy/peppery jammy black fruit.
Sweet, loaded initial mouth impression, shows a bit of alcohol, but just a bit. All over the mouth, grainy extract and sweet fruit slugging it out. I need stuff like this every 2-3 months - is it going to get better in the bottle? Whatever.
Forgot - 16% alcohol
Day 3 - Nose completely melded now, no alcohol in sight. All kinds of things aromatically - mint, toast, black raspberry, earth ... Still huge in the mouth, with fresh red and black raspberry ruling. Still a hint of alcohol. Fun, deep stuff. Get laid.
$60? gift
Monday, December 31, 2007
Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Cotes-du Rhone, 2005
Purple/red.
Fresh, understated nose - clay, undifferentiated (currently) black fruit and spice. Or is that spicy fig?
I'd guess this was Spanish, certainly not, in my book, an insult.
Really round and packed in the mouth, with, again, a Spanish citrus note. So much for what I said about France and citrus a few days ago. This would have been a great tasting companion to the Las Rocas VV 2003. Acidity is the primary sructural force here, driving moderate tannin. Long, taut finishing flavor.
Buy this. The 1985 version was my intro to southern France, and it was a revelation/come to Jesus event.
20th anniversary?
Day 3 - A bit more expressive/melded nose now. Still vibrant, though. Very little has changed in the mouth. This will be around for many years. The wine's purity is a huge departure from efforts in the 80's.
$30
Fresh, understated nose - clay, undifferentiated (currently) black fruit and spice. Or is that spicy fig?
I'd guess this was Spanish, certainly not, in my book, an insult.
Really round and packed in the mouth, with, again, a Spanish citrus note. So much for what I said about France and citrus a few days ago. This would have been a great tasting companion to the Las Rocas VV 2003. Acidity is the primary sructural force here, driving moderate tannin. Long, taut finishing flavor.
Buy this. The 1985 version was my intro to southern France, and it was a revelation/come to Jesus event.
20th anniversary?
Day 3 - A bit more expressive/melded nose now. Still vibrant, though. Very little has changed in the mouth. This will be around for many years. The wine's purity is a huge departure from efforts in the 80's.
$30
Lafond Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Lafond Vyd, 2003
Purple/red.
Now this is a great contrast to the Argyle - deep, dark fruit and toasted oak nose. The nose reminds me of a barrel-aged southern Rhone (Brusset, recently). Only much more suave.
Round and very filled-in. Serious, packed Pinot, no stems in sight. There is tannin here, but the flavor-stuffing just rides over it. This rocks.
Day 3 - Deep black fruit and nut liqueur aromas. But this still has a Pinot umami/textural plushness on the nose. Not over-ripe or over-extracted. Really good in the mouth, but I doubt it will develop into something profound.
$45? gift
Now this is a great contrast to the Argyle - deep, dark fruit and toasted oak nose. The nose reminds me of a barrel-aged southern Rhone (Brusset, recently). Only much more suave.
Round and very filled-in. Serious, packed Pinot, no stems in sight. There is tannin here, but the flavor-stuffing just rides over it. This rocks.
Day 3 - Deep black fruit and nut liqueur aromas. But this still has a Pinot umami/textural plushness on the nose. Not over-ripe or over-extracted. Really good in the mouth, but I doubt it will develop into something profound.
$45? gift
Argyle, Pinot Noir "Nuthouse" Willamette Valley 2004
Light red.
Bright red fruit (cran/raspberry/cherry) and herb/underbrush nose. A bit slutty/sumptuous too.
Really round and seamless, yet has nice framing acidity. Nice depth of fruit/spice, with no tannin to get in the way of the very long/extremely tasty finish. The slutty/sumptuous thing, fortunately, repeats in the mouth.
Screwcap - which is interesting. When I opened and tasted this an hour ago, there was nothing interesting going on.
PFG now.
Day 3 - Fresh sage on the nose now (memory thanks to Canela's porch 2 days ago). Not quite as bright in the mouth, but even longer on the finish. Seems to be filtered, so I'd drink this over the near term, for pure fruit/herb pleasure.
$45? gift
Bright red fruit (cran/raspberry/cherry) and herb/underbrush nose. A bit slutty/sumptuous too.
Really round and seamless, yet has nice framing acidity. Nice depth of fruit/spice, with no tannin to get in the way of the very long/extremely tasty finish. The slutty/sumptuous thing, fortunately, repeats in the mouth.
Screwcap - which is interesting. When I opened and tasted this an hour ago, there was nothing interesting going on.
PFG now.
Day 3 - Fresh sage on the nose now (memory thanks to Canela's porch 2 days ago). Not quite as bright in the mouth, but even longer on the finish. Seems to be filtered, so I'd drink this over the near term, for pure fruit/herb pleasure.
$45? gift
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Pax Syrah "Cuvee Keltie" North Coast 2005
Deep purple/red.
Licorice, menthol, spicy fig. Intense, deep.
Saturated black fruit and spice in the mouth, with slightly grainy tannin immediately evident. A hint of cheese. Not at all a blockbuster. Very long chewy/grainy finishing flavors that include jalapeno.
I think this is 100% whole cluster, neutral oak aged.
$75
Licorice, menthol, spicy fig. Intense, deep.
Saturated black fruit and spice in the mouth, with slightly grainy tannin immediately evident. A hint of cheese. Not at all a blockbuster. Very long chewy/grainy finishing flavors that include jalapeno.
I think this is 100% whole cluster, neutral oak aged.
$75
Friday, December 28, 2007
Feudi di San Gregorio, "Serpico", Irpinia (Italy) 2001
Saturated purple/black.
Deep black fruit (raisin, blackberry) and allspice aromas. Attractive and intense.
Much more giving in the mouth than my last bottle, almost creamy, with serious acid/tannin synergy hitting later. There's a baked (in a positive sense) character to the fruit as well as a charry notion that may not be oak derived. This is loaded.
Seems obvious that this benefits from great winemaking.
Opened 4 hours ago. 100% Aglianico
Day 3 - For lack of a better word - "rocky" nose. Others talk about lava/volcanic aromas. Whatever it is, it smells like nothing else. Utterly packed in the mouth, huge, spicy black fruit with an intense, grainy tannic backbone. Flavors just drive on and on.
Killer
$50
Deep black fruit (raisin, blackberry) and allspice aromas. Attractive and intense.
Much more giving in the mouth than my last bottle, almost creamy, with serious acid/tannin synergy hitting later. There's a baked (in a positive sense) character to the fruit as well as a charry notion that may not be oak derived. This is loaded.
Seems obvious that this benefits from great winemaking.
Opened 4 hours ago. 100% Aglianico
Day 3 - For lack of a better word - "rocky" nose. Others talk about lava/volcanic aromas. Whatever it is, it smells like nothing else. Utterly packed in the mouth, huge, spicy black fruit with an intense, grainy tannic backbone. Flavors just drive on and on.
Killer
$50
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Brusset, "Hauts de Montmirail", Gigondas 2000
Deep red/purple.
Oak smoke/grilled meat, sauteed mushroom/onion aromas. Plum underneath.
Intense, grainy, packed entry. Center-loaded, with slightly rustic structure coating the front teeth. Doesn't give up much flavor in the mouth, only iron in the finish. This is one burly dude. Black raspberry shows with a bit of air.
We'll see what airtime does, but this seems to need many more years in the bottle.
Day 4 - Like a spicy black fruit pudding aromatically, with char and oak spice notes thrown in. Ridiculous. Still very deep in the mouth, but showing a sweetness that reminds me a bit of really packed Chateauneuf. Huge structure now an afterthought.
$30 on release
Oak smoke/grilled meat, sauteed mushroom/onion aromas. Plum underneath.
Intense, grainy, packed entry. Center-loaded, with slightly rustic structure coating the front teeth. Doesn't give up much flavor in the mouth, only iron in the finish. This is one burly dude. Black raspberry shows with a bit of air.
We'll see what airtime does, but this seems to need many more years in the bottle.
Day 4 - Like a spicy black fruit pudding aromatically, with char and oak spice notes thrown in. Ridiculous. Still very deep in the mouth, but showing a sweetness that reminds me a bit of really packed Chateauneuf. Huge structure now an afterthought.
$30 on release
Chateau Leoville Barton, St. Julien 1994
Deep red, light rim.
Attractive, melded, expressive, Bordeaux nose - toast, wilted greens, iron, blackcurrant, clay ... Keeps changing focus with air.
Very much a middle-lightweight in the mouth. Nice density of flavor - iron, blackcurrant and earth repeat. Tapers a bit in the finish, but then rebounds with subtle iron and earth notes. Still has a tannic backbone, but well-balanced.
This should drink well for 5-6 more years, I'd think.
Day 2 - Smoke/toast/embers/earth/wilted greens/chocolate/truffle. Great nose. Suave, yet structured, in the mouth. Very nicely balanced/integrated wine. A good example of Bordeaux's allure.
Gift - $40 on release?
Attractive, melded, expressive, Bordeaux nose - toast, wilted greens, iron, blackcurrant, clay ... Keeps changing focus with air.
Very much a middle-lightweight in the mouth. Nice density of flavor - iron, blackcurrant and earth repeat. Tapers a bit in the finish, but then rebounds with subtle iron and earth notes. Still has a tannic backbone, but well-balanced.
This should drink well for 5-6 more years, I'd think.
Day 2 - Smoke/toast/embers/earth/wilted greens/chocolate/truffle. Great nose. Suave, yet structured, in the mouth. Very nicely balanced/integrated wine. A good example of Bordeaux's allure.
Gift - $40 on release?
Colonial Estate, "Envoy", GSM Barossa Valley 2004
Red.
Light spice, slightly sour (VA?) aromas. Nothing attractive.
Round and mouth-filling, but abrasive, with a sharp acid edge that seems acetic. Definitely unpleasant, with no fruit in the mouth either.
This winery recently changed importers. As a result, I got this at half-price ($15).
Hopefully this is a bad bottle, but there is no indication of a bad cork or heat damage.
Light spice, slightly sour (VA?) aromas. Nothing attractive.
Round and mouth-filling, but abrasive, with a sharp acid edge that seems acetic. Definitely unpleasant, with no fruit in the mouth either.
This winery recently changed importers. As a result, I got this at half-price ($15).
Hopefully this is a bad bottle, but there is no indication of a bad cork or heat damage.
Zind Humbrecht, Heimbourg, Gewurtztraminer 2000
Yellow, slight gold.
Smoky, roasted botrytis aromas with pineapple preserves underneath.
Very sweet initial impression, with framing acidity and "chew" slowly showing themselves. Very tasty and deep, but one-dimensional. Unfortunately missing the spicy, floral lift of great Gewurtztraminer. Or is it swamped by sugar?
15% alcohol
Day 2 - More spicy/floral today (warmer wine temp.) - lichee candy, grapefruit zest too. This translates into the mouth. Still, this is a very good, but not killer, example.
$45
Smoky, roasted botrytis aromas with pineapple preserves underneath.
Very sweet initial impression, with framing acidity and "chew" slowly showing themselves. Very tasty and deep, but one-dimensional. Unfortunately missing the spicy, floral lift of great Gewurtztraminer. Or is it swamped by sugar?
15% alcohol
Day 2 - More spicy/floral today (warmer wine temp.) - lichee candy, grapefruit zest too. This translates into the mouth. Still, this is a very good, but not killer, example.
$45
Monday, December 24, 2007
Kunin "Pape Star", Larner Vyds, Santa Ynez Valley 2004
Red.
Bright, clear red fruit on the nose. Which is probably why I see something Oz-like here. Easy-going and simple. Some clay notes late.
Sweet in the mouth, with little to impede cran/cherry/raspberry flavors. Nice acidity to frame flavors. More Oz-like in the mouth. Very pure, very simple. Tasty, with good length.
60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah
Day 4 - Ditto.
$20
Bright, clear red fruit on the nose. Which is probably why I see something Oz-like here. Easy-going and simple. Some clay notes late.
Sweet in the mouth, with little to impede cran/cherry/raspberry flavors. Nice acidity to frame flavors. More Oz-like in the mouth. Very pure, very simple. Tasty, with good length.
60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah
Day 4 - Ditto.
$20
Palacios "Petalos" 2003 (Bierzo, Spain)
Deep red/purple.
Spicy/meaty/earthy nose. Slight game/brett, but not ridiculous.
Quite round, with light, but insistent, structure hitting late. Spicy, meat/game flavors show little in the way of obvious fruit, but I really don't miss it. Long, subtle finish rides through tannic chew.
Interesting, "real" wine for little $$
Day 4 - Citrus and A-1 steak sauce. A raw intensity in the mouth (this has tightened up with air) - screams for real food - lamb, cream or reduction sauces.
$15
Spicy/meaty/earthy nose. Slight game/brett, but not ridiculous.
Quite round, with light, but insistent, structure hitting late. Spicy, meat/game flavors show little in the way of obvious fruit, but I really don't miss it. Long, subtle finish rides through tannic chew.
Interesting, "real" wine for little $$
Day 4 - Citrus and A-1 steak sauce. A raw intensity in the mouth (this has tightened up with air) - screams for real food - lamb, cream or reduction sauces.
$15
Las Rocas Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Catalayud (Spain) 2003
Red/purple.
Deep cherry/kirsch aromatics, with hints of citrus, garrigue/earth and oak(?) spice. Seems to have more layers on the nose than the Tres Picos, but the latter wine has greater purity.
Suave and deep in the mouth, with tannin providing a good bit of the structural impact. Nice sweetness in the mouth. This could easily get lost in a southern Rhone tasting. Citrus shows in the mouth here, too, but spicy cherry action keeps up with it.
From what I've seen, citrus is a Spanish Garnacha characteristic. I can't remember getting citrus from French Grenache-based wine.
Absurd value, but that's hardly news.
Day 4 - Citrus front and center now, aromas and flavors. Pungently so. Retains a garrigue character and a seamlessness that differentiate it from the Tres Picos. This will be around for years.
$15
Deep cherry/kirsch aromatics, with hints of citrus, garrigue/earth and oak(?) spice. Seems to have more layers on the nose than the Tres Picos, but the latter wine has greater purity.
Suave and deep in the mouth, with tannin providing a good bit of the structural impact. Nice sweetness in the mouth. This could easily get lost in a southern Rhone tasting. Citrus shows in the mouth here, too, but spicy cherry action keeps up with it.
From what I've seen, citrus is a Spanish Garnacha characteristic. I can't remember getting citrus from French Grenache-based wine.
Absurd value, but that's hardly news.
Day 4 - Citrus front and center now, aromas and flavors. Pungently so. Retains a garrigue character and a seamlessness that differentiate it from the Tres Picos. This will be around for years.
$15
Borsao Garnacha "Tres Picos" 2004 (Campo de Borja)
Red/purple.
Pure fruit (black raspberry/cherry) and allspice aromatics. Just a hint of citrus now. Very good depth.
Textural tension immediately - strong acidity balancing sweet/creamy roundness. Pungent citrus flavors still dominate in the mouth, more orange than grapefruit. Ultimately, this needs more time, as it is quite bound up in the finish. Or serve it now with red meat and/or cream sauces
An $11 bottle that needs to be cellared?
Day 4 - Not greatly changed (I think this has been filtered). Bright, delineated. It occurs to me that Ringland has had an influence here, as the Alto Moncayo wines must be made at Borsao.
Pure fruit (black raspberry/cherry) and allspice aromatics. Just a hint of citrus now. Very good depth.
Textural tension immediately - strong acidity balancing sweet/creamy roundness. Pungent citrus flavors still dominate in the mouth, more orange than grapefruit. Ultimately, this needs more time, as it is quite bound up in the finish. Or serve it now with red meat and/or cream sauces
An $11 bottle that needs to be cellared?
Day 4 - Not greatly changed (I think this has been filtered). Bright, delineated. It occurs to me that Ringland has had an influence here, as the Alto Moncayo wines must be made at Borsao.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Castellani, Cinque Stelle (5 star), Monte Cristi, Amarone 1997
Deep, slightly dull, red.
Smoke, dried herbs, charcoal, A1 steak sauce, truffle/earth, grilled meat and a deep, primal, black fruit character on the nose. Smells incredibly deep, slight suggestion of alcohol. Now red fruit ...
Round, creamy impression in the mouth. Grainy, just like the Allegrini, but suaver, flows better. Probably because there is no new oak here. Again, this is like "dry" cherry jam in the mouth. The concentration in both wines is remarkable for dry red wine. In fact, they seem like red versions of the Marcassin Chardonnay. How can dry wine be this packed and still dance?
A certain friend of mine, Albert K., loves this wine, and has consumed far more than his fair share when a bottle is within his reach. One reason why I have so few bottles left.
Day 4 - More of a whole meal on the nose now - slow-roasted meat, sauteed onion/mushroom, cherry jam ...
$36 (believe it or not) on release
Smoke, dried herbs, charcoal, A1 steak sauce, truffle/earth, grilled meat and a deep, primal, black fruit character on the nose. Smells incredibly deep, slight suggestion of alcohol. Now red fruit ...
Round, creamy impression in the mouth. Grainy, just like the Allegrini, but suaver, flows better. Probably because there is no new oak here. Again, this is like "dry" cherry jam in the mouth. The concentration in both wines is remarkable for dry red wine. In fact, they seem like red versions of the Marcassin Chardonnay. How can dry wine be this packed and still dance?
A certain friend of mine, Albert K., loves this wine, and has consumed far more than his fair share when a bottle is within his reach. One reason why I have so few bottles left.
Day 4 - More of a whole meal on the nose now - slow-roasted meat, sauteed onion/mushroom, cherry jam ...
$36 (believe it or not) on release
Allegrini Amarone 1997
Deep red, garnet rim.
Smoke/truffle, amaretto, prune, black raspberry, maple syrup, dried herb nose. This just keeps giving - tobacco, soy sauce, cherry jam... I opened this 1/2 hour ago and didn't get anything interesting on the nose.
Intense, not quite sweet, textural impression. Grainy sensation of extract, but not creamy either. Alcohol shows a bit throughout the experience. Sounds stupid, but it's kind of like cherry jam without the (additional) sugar. Truffle/earth shows too, but the aromatic complexity is not (yet?) matched in the mouth. Mild tannin eventually becomes noticeable.
Day 4 - Still packed and complex aromatically. Similar in the mouth too, with alcohol still showing.
This may never die.
$50 on release
Smoke/truffle, amaretto, prune, black raspberry, maple syrup, dried herb nose. This just keeps giving - tobacco, soy sauce, cherry jam... I opened this 1/2 hour ago and didn't get anything interesting on the nose.
Intense, not quite sweet, textural impression. Grainy sensation of extract, but not creamy either. Alcohol shows a bit throughout the experience. Sounds stupid, but it's kind of like cherry jam without the (additional) sugar. Truffle/earth shows too, but the aromatic complexity is not (yet?) matched in the mouth. Mild tannin eventually becomes noticeable.
Day 4 - Still packed and complex aromatically. Similar in the mouth too, with alcohol still showing.
This may never die.
$50 on release
Monday, December 17, 2007
Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vyd 2002 (Sonoma Coast)
Slightly hazy yellow.
Truffle/sulfide, caramel, sauteed meat (veal?) nose with lemon oil underneath. Smells deep and rich.
Really packed, wildly concentrated flavors of lemon sauce, caramel, truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion. Structure is fairly easy-going for this bottling, as the acidity seems moderate as does the sulfide/phenolic edge. Nice tension - there's also a textural sweetness start to finish. And, as usual, the finish of caramel/sulfides just doesn't quit.
Really wonderful integration - stupendous concentration and lightness of touch. 14.3% alcohol.
Interesting point - this wine would be considered flawed in many wine competitions.
Stupid. After tasting many bottles of Marcassin, you almost forget why (in the best vintages/more often than not) this stuff is on another level.
$100
Truffle/sulfide, caramel, sauteed meat (veal?) nose with lemon oil underneath. Smells deep and rich.
Really packed, wildly concentrated flavors of lemon sauce, caramel, truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion. Structure is fairly easy-going for this bottling, as the acidity seems moderate as does the sulfide/phenolic edge. Nice tension - there's also a textural sweetness start to finish. And, as usual, the finish of caramel/sulfides just doesn't quit.
Really wonderful integration - stupendous concentration and lightness of touch. 14.3% alcohol.
Interesting point - this wine would be considered flawed in many wine competitions.
Stupid. After tasting many bottles of Marcassin, you almost forget why (in the best vintages/more often than not) this stuff is on another level.
$100
Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2006
Platinum/straw.
Vibrant, "minerally" nose of ripe apple/pear. Some might even say steel. This smells like (really good) Chablis from a riper year. Or ripe Albarino.
Mineral/steel immediately in the mouth, with very intense/fresh flavors of ripe apple and a bit of pear. A bit of excess SO2 that I seemed to get in the nose is more obvious in the mouth. But it really doesn't distract much. No fat at all here. Very good depth of flavor, tapers somewhat in the finish. Very late note of iron (no, not steel).
Completely unexpected, very interesting. Courtesy of T. Bostock.
No way I'd guess CdP Blanc.
$35
Vibrant, "minerally" nose of ripe apple/pear. Some might even say steel. This smells like (really good) Chablis from a riper year. Or ripe Albarino.
Mineral/steel immediately in the mouth, with very intense/fresh flavors of ripe apple and a bit of pear. A bit of excess SO2 that I seemed to get in the nose is more obvious in the mouth. But it really doesn't distract much. No fat at all here. Very good depth of flavor, tapers somewhat in the finish. Very late note of iron (no, not steel).
Completely unexpected, very interesting. Courtesy of T. Bostock.
No way I'd guess CdP Blanc.
$35
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2004
Opaque purple.
Deep, savory nose - grilled meat, oak toast, pepper steak, potato and a hint of coconut. Aromas for real "foodies".
Really packed and plush in the mouth, with slightly grainy tannin omnipresent, but in the background, at least initially. Flavors flow well until the finish, where the tannin completely coats the front teeth.
Killer. Very long chewy, meaty/peppery finish. Nowhere near primetime.
Day 4 - Nose still deep, black and charred. Still packed and plush in the mouth. Alcohol now peeks out a bit. No shortage of tannic structure, which is probably the calling card of Toro. Every tooth in the mouth dusted with chewy tannin and extended flavor.
$50
Deep, savory nose - grilled meat, oak toast, pepper steak, potato and a hint of coconut. Aromas for real "foodies".
Really packed and plush in the mouth, with slightly grainy tannin omnipresent, but in the background, at least initially. Flavors flow well until the finish, where the tannin completely coats the front teeth.
Killer. Very long chewy, meaty/peppery finish. Nowhere near primetime.
Day 4 - Nose still deep, black and charred. Still packed and plush in the mouth. Alcohol now peeks out a bit. No shortage of tannic structure, which is probably the calling card of Toro. Every tooth in the mouth dusted with chewy tannin and extended flavor.
$50
Numanthia Toro (Spain) 2004
Deep purple/red.
Confectionary, almost New-World, aromatics - cotton candy, red and black raspberry - with A1 steak sauce and a brambly Zinfandel-like character in the background.
Sweet initial textural impression is immediately buffered by finely-grained, persistent tannin that coats the front teeth.
Fruit aspect (both colors of raspberry) shows in the mouth too. Structure and flavor on two tracks, neither cancelled out.
This is really concentrated, like the '01, but in an entirely different style.
Day 4 - Still a wild confection on the nose. Quite sweet textural impression, with tannin pushed further back in the mouth. Nevertheless, there is enormous tannic clout in the finish, coating every tooth.
$50
Confectionary, almost New-World, aromatics - cotton candy, red and black raspberry - with A1 steak sauce and a brambly Zinfandel-like character in the background.
Sweet initial textural impression is immediately buffered by finely-grained, persistent tannin that coats the front teeth.
Fruit aspect (both colors of raspberry) shows in the mouth too. Structure and flavor on two tracks, neither cancelled out.
This is really concentrated, like the '01, but in an entirely different style.
Day 4 - Still a wild confection on the nose. Quite sweet textural impression, with tannin pushed further back in the mouth. Nevertheless, there is enormous tannic clout in the finish, coating every tooth.
$50
Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2001
Deep purple/red.
More aromatically expressive than the Numanthia '01 - but also more obvious oak influence. Aromas of oak spice, toasted nut, grilled meat.
Plush, mouth-filling entry, with slightly grainy tannin hitting in the mid-palate and really clamping down in the finish. This is an interesting comparison. I get the impression that the Numanthia has better underlying "material", but the Pintia benefits from great winemaking/elevage.
Both wines will be fun to watch over the years.
Day 4 - There's an exotic note in the nose now - this actually reminds me of a dessert, tawny muscat from Oz. There's a rose liqueur/praline note. No shit. I got something similar from the '04 earlier today. Go figure. In the mouth we still get charcoal, grilled oak ... and huge structure. Less open now than the Numanthia '01.
$45
More aromatically expressive than the Numanthia '01 - but also more obvious oak influence. Aromas of oak spice, toasted nut, grilled meat.
Plush, mouth-filling entry, with slightly grainy tannin hitting in the mid-palate and really clamping down in the finish. This is an interesting comparison. I get the impression that the Numanthia has better underlying "material", but the Pintia benefits from great winemaking/elevage.
Both wines will be fun to watch over the years.
Day 4 - There's an exotic note in the nose now - this actually reminds me of a dessert, tawny muscat from Oz. There's a rose liqueur/praline note. No shit. I got something similar from the '04 earlier today. Go figure. In the mouth we still get charcoal, grilled oak ... and huge structure. Less open now than the Numanthia '01.
$45
Numanthia Toro (Spain) 2001
Deep red/purple.
A1 steak sauce, earth and light coconut nose with blackberry underneath.
Extremely intense, nearly painful, acid/tannin synergy on entry. Quite linear throughout, with structure muting flavor expression in the mouth. With a bit of air, fruit (blackberry pudding) peeks out somewhat. This is loaded. How long will we need to wait? Given that this is six years old already, I'd say at least 5-6 more years.
Day 4 - Earthy blackberry, light coconut now the primary aromas. Much more pliant in the mouth, even some real textural sweetness, at least initially. Blackberry pie filling, then the energetic, reasonably fine tannins smack down the finish.
This is loaded, just need to be patient.
$45 on release
A1 steak sauce, earth and light coconut nose with blackberry underneath.
Extremely intense, nearly painful, acid/tannin synergy on entry. Quite linear throughout, with structure muting flavor expression in the mouth. With a bit of air, fruit (blackberry pudding) peeks out somewhat. This is loaded. How long will we need to wait? Given that this is six years old already, I'd say at least 5-6 more years.
Day 4 - Earthy blackberry, light coconut now the primary aromas. Much more pliant in the mouth, even some real textural sweetness, at least initially. Blackberry pie filling, then the energetic, reasonably fine tannins smack down the finish.
This is loaded, just need to be patient.
$45 on release
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Windwalker, Primitivo, Shady Lady, Amador County 2004
Deep red.
Deep cherry jam/kirsch aromatics with a nice earth/oak component. Another Zin (Primitivo clone) that reminds me a bit of Priorat.
Sweet and intense in the mouth, with packed red raspberry coulis flavors. Even has the astringency/flavor of raspberry seeds.
Acidity is strong here too, with more tannin than the SF Zin. Nothing crazy though. Slight heat, but who cares? Very long raspberry finish.
Man, this is good.
Day 4 - A bit muddled on the nose, but deep. Retains its depth in the mouth too, with late, acid-edged raspberry seed character lifting relatively thick palate. Seems more concentrated than the SF Zin, but a bit duller.
$30? Gift
Deep cherry jam/kirsch aromatics with a nice earth/oak component. Another Zin (Primitivo clone) that reminds me a bit of Priorat.
Sweet and intense in the mouth, with packed red raspberry coulis flavors. Even has the astringency/flavor of raspberry seeds.
Acidity is strong here too, with more tannin than the SF Zin. Nothing crazy though. Slight heat, but who cares? Very long raspberry finish.
Man, this is good.
Day 4 - A bit muddled on the nose, but deep. Retains its depth in the mouth too, with late, acid-edged raspberry seed character lifting relatively thick palate. Seems more concentrated than the SF Zin, but a bit duller.
$30? Gift
Windwalker Zinfandel Sierra Foothills 2005
Red.
Nice, fresh aromas of spicy raspberry, pepper and sawn (red?)wood (not from oak). Smells plush.
It is. Sweet, round and mouth-filling. Fragrant, fresh sawn wood character repeats, now reminds me of balsa, as does the raspberry aspect. Acidity is the primary structural agent - tannin is fine - but eventually reaches the front teeth. Excellent concentration and very good length.
This is really good stuff.
Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Still round and mouth-filling, with fragrant wood character evident. Nice framing acidity.
$25? Gift
Nice, fresh aromas of spicy raspberry, pepper and sawn (red?)wood (not from oak). Smells plush.
It is. Sweet, round and mouth-filling. Fragrant, fresh sawn wood character repeats, now reminds me of balsa, as does the raspberry aspect. Acidity is the primary structural agent - tannin is fine - but eventually reaches the front teeth. Excellent concentration and very good length.
This is really good stuff.
Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Still round and mouth-filling, with fragrant wood character evident. Nice framing acidity.
$25? Gift
Foradori, Granato, Teroldego Rotaliano 1998
Very deep red.
Deep, suave, smoky, oak spice nose.
Lean middle-weight in the mouth, with grainy, rustic tannin reaching the front teeth. In fact, this definitely has an aged Bordeaux feel to it. Not yet showing much flavor - a bit of an iron note in the finish.
100% Teroldego, from a single vineyard, I believe.
Day 4 - This never really expressed. Probably past its peak.
$35 on release
Deep, suave, smoky, oak spice nose.
Lean middle-weight in the mouth, with grainy, rustic tannin reaching the front teeth. In fact, this definitely has an aged Bordeaux feel to it. Not yet showing much flavor - a bit of an iron note in the finish.
100% Teroldego, from a single vineyard, I believe.
Day 4 - This never really expressed. Probably past its peak.
$35 on release
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Santa Barbara Winery, Sangiovese, Stolpman Vyd. 2004
Deep red.
Oak toast/maple, red cherry and earth aromas. Very attractive, deep and integrated.
Round, sweet and simultaneously acid-driven - another wine with nice tension in the mouth. Flavors lean toward confectionary red raspberry and a "mineral" feel from the strong acidity.
Serious New World Sangiovese, apparently not an oxymoron. 14.9% alcohol listed. Very good action.
Day 3 - No change - delicious stuff.
$25? gift
Oak toast/maple, red cherry and earth aromas. Very attractive, deep and integrated.
Round, sweet and simultaneously acid-driven - another wine with nice tension in the mouth. Flavors lean toward confectionary red raspberry and a "mineral" feel from the strong acidity.
Serious New World Sangiovese, apparently not an oxymoron. 14.9% alcohol listed. Very good action.
Day 3 - No change - delicious stuff.
$25? gift
Massena "Howling Dog" Petite Sirah, Barossa Valley 2005
Opaque purple.
Gamey, sweaty, medicinal, salty aromatics - very deep - slightly disgusting. Sweeter black fruit character with air.
Sweet, creamy palate impression, with nice breadth in the mouth. Structure is quite mild, particularly for Petite. Deep fig/blackberry flavor that competes with game/salt/sweat flavors of Brett/old barrels.
This may need some serious aeration. Opened yesterday.
Day 3 - I double-decanted this after tasting it above. Animal character now in the background, with creamy blueberry/blackberry and a hint of citrus on the nose. Similar in the mouth, with an unexpected hint of oxidation to boot. Very round, but finishes short. Not clear that there will be any way to get around the beastiness without killing the wine.
$45
Gamey, sweaty, medicinal, salty aromatics - very deep - slightly disgusting. Sweeter black fruit character with air.
Sweet, creamy palate impression, with nice breadth in the mouth. Structure is quite mild, particularly for Petite. Deep fig/blackberry flavor that competes with game/salt/sweat flavors of Brett/old barrels.
This may need some serious aeration. Opened yesterday.
Day 3 - I double-decanted this after tasting it above. Animal character now in the background, with creamy blueberry/blackberry and a hint of citrus on the nose. Similar in the mouth, with an unexpected hint of oxidation to boot. Very round, but finishes short. Not clear that there will be any way to get around the beastiness without killing the wine.
$45
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
(Clos Marie) Metairies du Clos, VV, Pic St. Loup 2004
Purple/red.
Dried herb (oregano?), earth, suave oak spice - something Burgundian/umami too on the nose - fruit confection/underbrush/savory meat.
Really plush, but not sweet, in the mouth. Grainy tannic chew/flavor concentration start to finish. Another wine that seems to flow on two different tracks - Schildnecht's"interplay" of flavor/structure. Again - many would label this as a wine with a "mineral-laden" finish. Basically meaning this wine needs some time in the bottle to strut.
Very refined, deep wine from the Languedoc.
Day 4 - Much deeper than the Olivette. An integrated whole that is difficult to break into meaningful "pieces" the same way it is difficult to "deconstruct" a great Marcassin PN (at least aromatically). In the mouth oak toast dominates, with a strong tannin/acid synergy crimping the finish.
Talk to Eric at The Wine Consultant outside Sacramento.
$35
Dried herb (oregano?), earth, suave oak spice - something Burgundian/umami too on the nose - fruit confection/underbrush/savory meat.
Really plush, but not sweet, in the mouth. Grainy tannic chew/flavor concentration start to finish. Another wine that seems to flow on two different tracks - Schildnecht's"interplay" of flavor/structure. Again - many would label this as a wine with a "mineral-laden" finish. Basically meaning this wine needs some time in the bottle to strut.
Very refined, deep wine from the Languedoc.
Day 4 - Much deeper than the Olivette. An integrated whole that is difficult to break into meaningful "pieces" the same way it is difficult to "deconstruct" a great Marcassin PN (at least aromatically). In the mouth oak toast dominates, with a strong tannin/acid synergy crimping the finish.
Talk to Eric at The Wine Consultant outside Sacramento.
$35
Clos Marie, L'Olivette, Pic St. Loup (Languedoc) 2005
Red/purple.
A bit of game/brett initially, with deep red cherry and earth aromas. It is interesting to taste New World and Old World wines simultaneously. The one advantage I consistently see in better Old World stuff is a centered core, a singularity, of fruit purity/concentration. The gamy notes are a bit of a distraction, but maybe only for those anal about "hygiene" (yes, that was supposed to be a laugher).
Round/sweet and yet taut simultaneously. Middle-weight, with a bit of game in the mouth too, but plenty of pure fruit and "mineral" flavors. This is really good.
Day 4 - There's a red licorice aromatic note now, with the gamey nuance sublimated to savory meat. As a whole - this is mouth-watering stew. More roundness in the mouth, with firming acid/minerality hitting later.
For the $$ this is a really ridiculous value.
$20
A bit of game/brett initially, with deep red cherry and earth aromas. It is interesting to taste New World and Old World wines simultaneously. The one advantage I consistently see in better Old World stuff is a centered core, a singularity, of fruit purity/concentration. The gamy notes are a bit of a distraction, but maybe only for those anal about "hygiene" (yes, that was supposed to be a laugher).
Round/sweet and yet taut simultaneously. Middle-weight, with a bit of game in the mouth too, but plenty of pure fruit and "mineral" flavors. This is really good.
Day 4 - There's a red licorice aromatic note now, with the gamey nuance sublimated to savory meat. As a whole - this is mouth-watering stew. More roundness in the mouth, with firming acid/minerality hitting later.
For the $$ this is a really ridiculous value.
$20
Mas d'en Compte, Priorat 2004
Purple/red.
Toasty/grilled meat (some really good American?) oak influence on the nose, with a pool of undifferentiated black fruit underneath. Or is it blueberry? Full, deep nose, this is obviously concentrated action.
Sweet/creamy initial textural impression gets nice lift and focus from strongish acidity in the mid-palate. Acidity also drives the moderate tannic chew at the sides of the mouth, which impedes flavor flow in the finish. This just needs some time, as there is a major reservoir of flavor to ultimately put structural elements in their rightful place.
Day 4 - This all hazelnut liqueur on the nose now. Not considerably different in the mouth. Needs some bottle time.
$35
Toasty/grilled meat (some really good American?) oak influence on the nose, with a pool of undifferentiated black fruit underneath. Or is it blueberry? Full, deep nose, this is obviously concentrated action.
Sweet/creamy initial textural impression gets nice lift and focus from strongish acidity in the mid-palate. Acidity also drives the moderate tannic chew at the sides of the mouth, which impedes flavor flow in the finish. This just needs some time, as there is a major reservoir of flavor to ultimately put structural elements in their rightful place.
Day 4 - This all hazelnut liqueur on the nose now. Not considerably different in the mouth. Needs some bottle time.
$35
Sunday, December 9, 2007
Lafond Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Clone 777, 2005
Deep red.
Suave oak toast and nut aromas, with herbs, black fruit and buttered popcorn underneath.
Quite round in the mouth, with a saline/grainy impression of concentration. This is packed/extracted, but is not at all heavy-handed. Big (for Pinot) tannic backbone, with strong acidity. Loaded - I'd like to see this a few years from now.
$45? gift
Suave oak toast and nut aromas, with herbs, black fruit and buttered popcorn underneath.
Quite round in the mouth, with a saline/grainy impression of concentration. This is packed/extracted, but is not at all heavy-handed. Big (for Pinot) tannic backbone, with strong acidity. Loaded - I'd like to see this a few years from now.
$45? gift
Hirtzberger, Riesling, Hochrain, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)
Yellow.
Slightly pungent aromas of spiced apple, lemon/lime zest, earth and a hint of peach.
Spicy/peppery entry similar to Gruner Veltliner, even has a lentil nuance. Intense, spicy grapefruit flavors and off-dry, with acid-driven mineral chew providing a firm backstop. Very long, chewy finish goes on and on.
This rocks.
Day 3 - White grape jelly now shows in the aromatics. Pepper diminished in the mouth, with citric flavor front and center. Finishing chew really takes over the mouth (still).
$50
Slightly pungent aromas of spiced apple, lemon/lime zest, earth and a hint of peach.
Spicy/peppery entry similar to Gruner Veltliner, even has a lentil nuance. Intense, spicy grapefruit flavors and off-dry, with acid-driven mineral chew providing a firm backstop. Very long, chewy finish goes on and on.
This rocks.
Day 3 - White grape jelly now shows in the aromatics. Pepper diminished in the mouth, with citric flavor front and center. Finishing chew really takes over the mouth (still).
$50
Friday, December 7, 2007
Saxum, Heart Stone Vyd, Paso Robles 2005
Purple/red.
Suave mixture of oak and raspberry fruit sweetness on the nose.
Very sweet/creamy entry, by now a calling card for Saxum and many producers in the area. Structure is almost entirely driven by acidity, which boosts the mild tannin. This is very tasty, but, still, I see little aromatic or flavor delination/complexity here.
Will this come with cellar time? I'm not betting on it.
Day 2 - Completely confectionary now, with nice acid (some would say mineral) thrust. A thick coating of one thing, nothing else. I still don't get most of these wines (Rocket Block is an exception). But I must be missing something, as both Tanzer and Parker think highly of them.
Day 5 - I've been too tough on this one, which should definitely get extra points for concentration, suave texture and flavor thrust. I'm still skeptical about any real future aromatic or flavor complexity, but I'll probably be proven wrong.
44% Syrah, 33% Grenache, 23% Mourvedre
$40
Suave mixture of oak and raspberry fruit sweetness on the nose.
Very sweet/creamy entry, by now a calling card for Saxum and many producers in the area. Structure is almost entirely driven by acidity, which boosts the mild tannin. This is very tasty, but, still, I see little aromatic or flavor delination/complexity here.
Will this come with cellar time? I'm not betting on it.
Day 2 - Completely confectionary now, with nice acid (some would say mineral) thrust. A thick coating of one thing, nothing else. I still don't get most of these wines (Rocket Block is an exception). But I must be missing something, as both Tanzer and Parker think highly of them.
Day 5 - I've been too tough on this one, which should definitely get extra points for concentration, suave texture and flavor thrust. I'm still skeptical about any real future aromatic or flavor complexity, but I'll probably be proven wrong.
44% Syrah, 33% Grenache, 23% Mourvedre
$40
Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah 2005 (Sonoma Coast)
Saturated purple.
Medicinal (iodine), (oak?) spice, dried fig, clove, slow-roasted meat, menthol and all sorts of other, teaser, "stuff" on the nose.
Black licorice, suave oak toast - whatever - this rocks. I seem to get a bit of heat in the mid-palate, even though this is listed at 14.2% alcohol. Nevertheless, this is packed with grainy flavor concentration, as usual. Menthol flavor shows late. I think we need some air time here.
This is a Pax bottling I'll buy any time.
Day 2 - Deeper on the nose, really huge in the mouth, with chewy tannin that you almost miss. 50% new oak, according to the website.
Day 3 - Deeper, chocolate-infused nose now, with the iodine element in the background. There's a saturation of aromas and flavors that basically mocks the Saxum's sweet/tart simplicity.
$50
Medicinal (iodine), (oak?) spice, dried fig, clove, slow-roasted meat, menthol and all sorts of other, teaser, "stuff" on the nose.
Black licorice, suave oak toast - whatever - this rocks. I seem to get a bit of heat in the mid-palate, even though this is listed at 14.2% alcohol. Nevertheless, this is packed with grainy flavor concentration, as usual. Menthol flavor shows late. I think we need some air time here.
This is a Pax bottling I'll buy any time.
Day 2 - Deeper on the nose, really huge in the mouth, with chewy tannin that you almost miss. 50% new oak, according to the website.
Day 3 - Deeper, chocolate-infused nose now, with the iodine element in the background. There's a saturation of aromas and flavors that basically mocks the Saxum's sweet/tart simplicity.
$50
Copain "Les Voisins" Syrah 2006 (McDowell Valley)
Purple.
My 10 year-old says Havarti cheese (she's onto something), blueberry cream and spice aromatics.
Round, creamy impression in the mouth, with blueberry flavor dominating. Relatively strong acidity kicks in around mid-palate. Finishes with chewy acid/tannin synergy. Very good density in the mouth.
Tasty New World/Old World hybrid.
$25
My 10 year-old says Havarti cheese (she's onto something), blueberry cream and spice aromatics.
Round, creamy impression in the mouth, with blueberry flavor dominating. Relatively strong acidity kicks in around mid-palate. Finishes with chewy acid/tannin synergy. Very good density in the mouth.
Tasty New World/Old World hybrid.
$25
Copain 2006 "Tous Ensemble" Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)
Light red.
Earth/nut, spice and light cranberry on the nose.
Bright and lifted in the mouth - cran/cherry and spice - pure and simple. Fairly strong acidity, yet this has nice textural sweetness. Decent length.
Everyday, tasty Pinot. A whopping 13.1% alcohol.
$25?
Earth/nut, spice and light cranberry on the nose.
Bright and lifted in the mouth - cran/cherry and spice - pure and simple. Fairly strong acidity, yet this has nice textural sweetness. Decent length.
Everyday, tasty Pinot. A whopping 13.1% alcohol.
$25?
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Havens "Black and Blue" Napa Valley 2002
Saturated purple.
Ground pepper, menthol, meat and black fruit aromas.
Plush, mouth-coating entry with pepper and meat repeating as well as fig/date flavors. A bit dis-jointed in the mid-palate, with tannin taking the upper hand. Cabernet greens make a subtle, yet substantive, appearance.
Solid stuff, but I wonder if it will knit together?
I think the blend is 50% each Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
Day 5 - Figs, earth and black raspberry aromas. Still mouth-coating and plush, just a bit of heat, and much better flavor flow through the mid-palate. A eucalyptus nuance too. Tannin still fairly strong - I think this needs several more years in the bottle to strut.
$35?
Ground pepper, menthol, meat and black fruit aromas.
Plush, mouth-coating entry with pepper and meat repeating as well as fig/date flavors. A bit dis-jointed in the mid-palate, with tannin taking the upper hand. Cabernet greens make a subtle, yet substantive, appearance.
Solid stuff, but I wonder if it will knit together?
I think the blend is 50% each Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
Day 5 - Figs, earth and black raspberry aromas. Still mouth-coating and plush, just a bit of heat, and much better flavor flow through the mid-palate. A eucalyptus nuance too. Tannin still fairly strong - I think this needs several more years in the bottle to strut.
$35?
Remizieres, Hermitage 1999
Purple/red.
Great nose of wilted greens, sausage/smoked salmon and integrated oak smoke/spice. Black pepper a late arrival.
Intensely flavored middle-weight, with flavors echoing nose. Structure is (front teeth) stout, but lets flavors ride through without a hiccup.
Day 3 - Nose now dominated by black fruit, earth and a medicinal note. Almost fat in the mouth, with spicy black fruit front and center, supported by sausage, wilted greens and earth.
$50 on release
Great nose of wilted greens, sausage/smoked salmon and integrated oak smoke/spice. Black pepper a late arrival.
Intensely flavored middle-weight, with flavors echoing nose. Structure is (front teeth) stout, but lets flavors ride through without a hiccup.
Day 3 - Nose now dominated by black fruit, earth and a medicinal note. Almost fat in the mouth, with spicy black fruit front and center, supported by sausage, wilted greens and earth.
$50 on release
Clerico, Barolo, Ginestra, 1997
Deep red.
Amaretto, savory meat, earth and deep cherry jam. Not particularly lifted, but not flat either. In fact, this reminds me a bit of successful stuff from the south of France (Clavel's Copa Santa).
Intensely flavored - cherry, embers, spice and a bit of heat. Structure seems primarily acid-driven with finishing tannic thrust. A late note of iron. All structure in the finish, killing flavor.
Day 3 - Here's another wine that has a melted butter/fruit component. In fact, this has a black cherry/raspberry confectionary character on the nose. Really round, packed and seamless, particularly for Barolo, with grainy tannin intruding late.
Interesting contrast to the '96.
$65?
Amaretto, savory meat, earth and deep cherry jam. Not particularly lifted, but not flat either. In fact, this reminds me a bit of successful stuff from the south of France (Clavel's Copa Santa).
Intensely flavored - cherry, embers, spice and a bit of heat. Structure seems primarily acid-driven with finishing tannic thrust. A late note of iron. All structure in the finish, killing flavor.
Day 3 - Here's another wine that has a melted butter/fruit component. In fact, this has a black cherry/raspberry confectionary character on the nose. Really round, packed and seamless, particularly for Barolo, with grainy tannin intruding late.
Interesting contrast to the '96.
$65?
Monday, December 3, 2007
Copain Roussanne James Berry Vyd. 2005
Pale yellow.
Having a hard time with the nose - understated - spiced peach/apple and a light sulfide note.
Round and mouth-filling, without being fat. Really packed with spiced peach/apple flavor, subtle vanilla and, again, a light sulfide, chewy finish which switches to canned peach. Very long - just sticks in the mouth.
At 13.8% alcohol, this is hardly a bruiser. The kind of wine you appreciate more the further you get into the bottle.
Day 2 - More open nose now. Vanilla, custard and ripe peach, like a refreshing dessert. More restrained in the mouth, absolutely delicious action.
$45
Having a hard time with the nose - understated - spiced peach/apple and a light sulfide note.
Round and mouth-filling, without being fat. Really packed with spiced peach/apple flavor, subtle vanilla and, again, a light sulfide, chewy finish which switches to canned peach. Very long - just sticks in the mouth.
At 13.8% alcohol, this is hardly a bruiser. The kind of wine you appreciate more the further you get into the bottle.
Day 2 - More open nose now. Vanilla, custard and ripe peach, like a refreshing dessert. More restrained in the mouth, absolutely delicious action.
$45
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
