Deep red.
Deep, spicy, grilled meat, A-1 sauce nose. Cherry jam underneath.
Really plush/packed spicy cherry jam in the mouth. Great mid-palate flesh, with acid-driven, sulphide/mineral/tannic edge increasingly dominant. Loaded. Very young. Like CdPapes, this needs air in the worst way.
Day 3 - Deep truffle/earth action on the nose, Amarone-esque. Rocks. Deep, thick and loaded in the mouth too. Just huge, cherry jam, length. Some spicy action too. Jesus. Complex? A bit. Likely more so with several years of bottle age. Strawberry as the dominant, very late finishing flavor. I love Clos des Papes' purity, but the guts/concentration here are on another level.
Day 5 - Now showing some oxidation/muddied character.
$70
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Light red.
Red cherry jam, earth/truffle, iron, garrigue nose.
Round and plush in the mouth, very "filled-in". Great depth and chew, but also very finely rendered. Lots of flavor, but a bit muddled at the moment. Tight finish, iron-dominated. This certainly needs air. When opened, this seemed to have residual CO2, though no physical evidence.
Day 3 - More generous nose - deep, plush red cherry coulis, earth/hazelnut/truffle. Killer. Round and plush in the mouth as well. Better purity today, iron as a undertone. Still has strong acid-driven structure, but red fruit just sails on. FK.
Day 5 - Similar to day 3, but even more delineated. Beautiful stuff. Structured to age for many years.
$65
Red cherry jam, earth/truffle, iron, garrigue nose.
Round and plush in the mouth, very "filled-in". Great depth and chew, but also very finely rendered. Lots of flavor, but a bit muddled at the moment. Tight finish, iron-dominated. This certainly needs air. When opened, this seemed to have residual CO2, though no physical evidence.
Day 3 - More generous nose - deep, plush red cherry coulis, earth/hazelnut/truffle. Killer. Round and plush in the mouth as well. Better purity today, iron as a undertone. Still has strong acid-driven structure, but red fruit just sails on. FK.
Day 5 - Similar to day 3, but even more delineated. Beautiful stuff. Structured to age for many years.
$65
Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2002
Deep, murky red. Some rim evolution.
That deep, sumptuous, evolved "Marcassin PN at its best" nose - fennel, savory meat/duck fat, cherry sauce, earth, hazelnut liqueur ...
Round, deep and sweet texturally. Slight heat, but sails on, with great mid-palate depth. There's an acid edge riding though it all, probably elevated VA involved, that keeps everything in check. But also a bit abrasive. Great (cherry) length. We'll see if air time brings everything together.
Day 3 - Still sumptuous on the nose. Better integration in the mouth also. VA still is a bit discordant, but I don't really care. Does not have the flavor complexity of the best bottlings, but very few people will mind.
$90
That deep, sumptuous, evolved "Marcassin PN at its best" nose - fennel, savory meat/duck fat, cherry sauce, earth, hazelnut liqueur ...
Round, deep and sweet texturally. Slight heat, but sails on, with great mid-palate depth. There's an acid edge riding though it all, probably elevated VA involved, that keeps everything in check. But also a bit abrasive. Great (cherry) length. We'll see if air time brings everything together.
Day 3 - Still sumptuous on the nose. Better integration in the mouth also. VA still is a bit discordant, but I don't really care. Does not have the flavor complexity of the best bottlings, but very few people will mind.
$90
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas" Paso Robles 2005
Deep red.
Deep, slightly baked, black cherry, earth, slight licorice nose. Open-knit, very attractive.
Ditto in the mouth, very expansive/plush. No real complexity and some heat, but I could drink quite a bit of this. Acid/mineral structure quietly coats the front teeth.
Day 4 - Deeper and more sumptuous on the nose. Totally satisfying on the palate, though finishes a bit short. Still finishes with mineral/acid chew, now on the side teeth.
$25, 43% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre, 18% Syrah, 15% Counoise
Deep, slightly baked, black cherry, earth, slight licorice nose. Open-knit, very attractive.
Ditto in the mouth, very expansive/plush. No real complexity and some heat, but I could drink quite a bit of this. Acid/mineral structure quietly coats the front teeth.
Day 4 - Deeper and more sumptuous on the nose. Totally satisfying on the palate, though finishes a bit short. Still finishes with mineral/acid chew, now on the side teeth.
$25, 43% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre, 18% Syrah, 15% Counoise
Clos St. Michel "Cuvee Reservee" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Deep red.
Cherry jam, clay/earth, garrigue, iron and brown spices.
Broad and round in the mouth, slight textural sweetness. Deep spicy cherry, earth and herb spice flavors. Decent length. No new oak showing. Very pleasant stuff. Medicinal herb finish.
Day 4 - Another killer nose. Not nearly as concentrated as CdP or Usseglio, but possibly the smart buy in a cash strapped world.
$28, 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre
Cherry jam, clay/earth, garrigue, iron and brown spices.
Broad and round in the mouth, slight textural sweetness. Deep spicy cherry, earth and herb spice flavors. Decent length. No new oak showing. Very pleasant stuff. Medicinal herb finish.
Day 4 - Another killer nose. Not nearly as concentrated as CdP or Usseglio, but possibly the smart buy in a cash strapped world.
$28, 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Bastide Blanche "Longue Garde" 1998 Bandol
Deep, murky red.
Smoke, embers, iron, wilted herbs, iodine, savory meat nose. A bit of horseshit, too, for purists.
Round and plush on entry, dense and concentrated. Grainy texture typical of B-B kicks in on the mid-palate and doesn't let up. Licorice and smoke on the chewy, tannic, finish. Thank God for wines like this. Where's the lamb cassoulet?
$35
Smoke, embers, iron, wilted herbs, iodine, savory meat nose. A bit of horseshit, too, for purists.
Round and plush on entry, dense and concentrated. Grainy texture typical of B-B kicks in on the mid-palate and doesn't let up. Licorice and smoke on the chewy, tannic, finish. Thank God for wines like this. Where's the lamb cassoulet?
$35
Friday, December 26, 2008
Saxum "James Berry Vineyard" Paso Robles 2005
Purple.
High-toned nose of brown spices, licorice, black olive.
Plush and very deep/sweet in the mouth. A bit of heat, though, as strong acidity cuts into the finish. Ultimately seems to lack an extra textural dimension to cover the alcohol. I've under-estimated these wines before, however. They often need significant air time to strut (long lees aging).
Day 4 - Deep, saucy aromas - A-1 marinated steak, licorice, earth. Wildly sweet and broad in the mouth, with alcohol showing. Mineral action kicks in on the dis-jointed finish.
$65, 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache
High-toned nose of brown spices, licorice, black olive.
Plush and very deep/sweet in the mouth. A bit of heat, though, as strong acidity cuts into the finish. Ultimately seems to lack an extra textural dimension to cover the alcohol. I've under-estimated these wines before, however. They often need significant air time to strut (long lees aging).
Day 4 - Deep, saucy aromas - A-1 marinated steak, licorice, earth. Wildly sweet and broad in the mouth, with alcohol showing. Mineral action kicks in on the dis-jointed finish.
$65, 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache
Rug Vino "Exopto" Rioja 2005
Purple.
Great, deep, oak spice, fig/prune/date, earth nose. Not at all baked - just deep and a bit reticent.
Round and simultaneously sweet and taut. Tanzer's "painful" intensity. Tightly wound from the mid-palate on, but there's some serious concentration here. A bit grapy at the moment. Very interesting take on Rioja.
Day 4 - Deep, spicy/peppery black fruit flavors now. Still intense/taut. Major acid-driven tannin in the finish. Reminds me a bit of the deep black fruit and strong structure of dry reds from the Douro. Many years needed here.
$60, 60% Graciano, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha
Great, deep, oak spice, fig/prune/date, earth nose. Not at all baked - just deep and a bit reticent.
Round and simultaneously sweet and taut. Tanzer's "painful" intensity. Tightly wound from the mid-palate on, but there's some serious concentration here. A bit grapy at the moment. Very interesting take on Rioja.
Day 4 - Deep, spicy/peppery black fruit flavors now. Still intense/taut. Major acid-driven tannin in the finish. Reminds me a bit of the deep black fruit and strong structure of dry reds from the Douro. Many years needed here.
$60, 60% Graciano, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha
Pelletier "l en'goulevent" St Chinian 2005
Deep red.
Seems a bit oxidized on the nose - burnt wood, nut. No obvious sign that this bottle is off.
Very round and spicy in the mouth, with edgy acidity slowly moving into the front teeth. Much fresher than the nose - with pepper and sweet cherry flavors and a mineral constriction in the finish. There's a celery seed feature that underlies it all, start to finish. Wild stuff that seems like it is still sorting itself out.
Day 3- Definitely oxidized.
$25
Seems a bit oxidized on the nose - burnt wood, nut. No obvious sign that this bottle is off.
Very round and spicy in the mouth, with edgy acidity slowly moving into the front teeth. Much fresher than the nose - with pepper and sweet cherry flavors and a mineral constriction in the finish. There's a celery seed feature that underlies it all, start to finish. Wild stuff that seems like it is still sorting itself out.
Day 3- Definitely oxidized.
$25
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux) 2005
Purple.
Relatively open-knit nose of black fruit, clay/earth, licorice and oak spice. With air, some savory campfire/meat character emerges.
Relatively easy-going in the mouth, too (for a 2005), and light to middle-weight, probably appropriate for Pessac-L. Intense and structured from the mid-palate on, with iron the increasingly dominant flavor.
$35?
Relatively open-knit nose of black fruit, clay/earth, licorice and oak spice. With air, some savory campfire/meat character emerges.
Relatively easy-going in the mouth, too (for a 2005), and light to middle-weight, probably appropriate for Pessac-L. Intense and structured from the mid-palate on, with iron the increasingly dominant flavor.
$35?
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2006
Deep, opaque, vibrant purple.
Crazy, completely atypical (for me at least) Thackrey nose - green chile, cheese. Could be Copain.
Round and mouth-filling, with acidity and tannin at the periphery of the mouth. Black raspberry and moderate chile/cheese flavors. Much better than it sounds. Raspberry picks up steam as the wine airs. No sign of eucalyptus. Thackrey said nothing about stem inclusion when we visited in early 2007 (apart from his initial vintage in 1986), but I can't imagine any other source for this action. I also get the impression that this has not been acidified nearly as much as previous vintages.
Day 4 - Similar, more sumptuous nose - something you eat. Very deep and plush, tannin is really in the background now. Must admit, this is better than any of my recent Copain bottlings. Old vineyard, though. The pH has to be quite high to take the edge off the stem tannin.
$75
Crazy, completely atypical (for me at least) Thackrey nose - green chile, cheese. Could be Copain.
Round and mouth-filling, with acidity and tannin at the periphery of the mouth. Black raspberry and moderate chile/cheese flavors. Much better than it sounds. Raspberry picks up steam as the wine airs. No sign of eucalyptus. Thackrey said nothing about stem inclusion when we visited in early 2007 (apart from his initial vintage in 1986), but I can't imagine any other source for this action. I also get the impression that this has not been acidified nearly as much as previous vintages.
Day 4 - Similar, more sumptuous nose - something you eat. Very deep and plush, tannin is really in the background now. Must admit, this is better than any of my recent Copain bottlings. Old vineyard, though. The pH has to be quite high to take the edge off the stem tannin.
$75
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2001
Opaque purple.
Deep, sexy, smoky oak, earth, candied blackberry nose. Immediately calls to mind a Pintia bottling, with a high-toned character that also reminds me of Atauta (Toro and Ribera del Duero respectively, both Tempranillo-based)).
Deep and packed in the mouth, with insistent acid-driven flavors of earth, iron, mineral. Blackberry and a hint of eucalyptus bringing up the rear. Acidity is out of whack, structurally, with grainy tannin and a burnt quality in the finish. All of which remind me of certain Shiraz'.
Day 3 - This continues to remind me of RdD/Toro, although there's now a hint of eucalyptus and char in the nose too. Round with a textural sweetness that brings us back to Oz. Acid a bit better integrated, though tannin is still chewy and slightly abrasive. Wild, interesting wine.
$75
Deep, sexy, smoky oak, earth, candied blackberry nose. Immediately calls to mind a Pintia bottling, with a high-toned character that also reminds me of Atauta (Toro and Ribera del Duero respectively, both Tempranillo-based)).
Deep and packed in the mouth, with insistent acid-driven flavors of earth, iron, mineral. Blackberry and a hint of eucalyptus bringing up the rear. Acidity is out of whack, structurally, with grainy tannin and a burnt quality in the finish. All of which remind me of certain Shiraz'.
Day 3 - This continues to remind me of RdD/Toro, although there's now a hint of eucalyptus and char in the nose too. Round with a textural sweetness that brings us back to Oz. Acid a bit better integrated, though tannin is still chewy and slightly abrasive. Wild, interesting wine.
$75
Friday, December 19, 2008
Tablas Creek, Tannat, Paso Robles 2004
Purple.
Deep plum/prune, savory nut and earth nose.
Unexpectedly plush entry, with deep black fruit going the distance. Tannin increases incrementally through the finish, but does not seriously impede flavor flow. Seems to be slightly volatile, but nothing crazy.
Gift $25? Tannat is the primary grape in the Madiran region of France and the variety that micro-oxygenation was invented for. Think monster tannin.
Deep plum/prune, savory nut and earth nose.
Unexpectedly plush entry, with deep black fruit going the distance. Tannin increases incrementally through the finish, but does not seriously impede flavor flow. Seems to be slightly volatile, but nothing crazy.
Gift $25? Tannat is the primary grape in the Madiran region of France and the variety that micro-oxygenation was invented for. Think monster tannin.
Copain, Syrah "Thompson" Santa Barbara Cty. 2005
Purple/red.
Interesting nose - toasted nut, Bordeaux (indeed) greens, fresh raspberry. I can't tell yet if the green character is from stem inclusion or just cool climate greenness.
Round and dense in the mouth, with green character now veering to stem/chili with corresponding stem chew hitting the front teeth in a significant way. But all this in a moderate way that works well. Raspberry fortunately shows too. Seems to have significant acidity, but is not abrasive. I wonder what this will do with 5-6 years in the bottle?
$45
Interesting nose - toasted nut, Bordeaux (indeed) greens, fresh raspberry. I can't tell yet if the green character is from stem inclusion or just cool climate greenness.
Round and dense in the mouth, with green character now veering to stem/chili with corresponding stem chew hitting the front teeth in a significant way. But all this in a moderate way that works well. Raspberry fortunately shows too. Seems to have significant acidity, but is not abrasive. I wonder what this will do with 5-6 years in the bottle?
$45
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 2004 Bandol
Purple/red.
Clay/earth, game/sausage, licorice, fig/date, deep nose.
Round and dense in the mouth, with a bit more refinement and less brute power than the 2001 (not necessarily a good thing).
Still nicely loaded, with relatively fine tannin constricting the iron-laden finish. Distinctive Mourvedre.
Day 3 - Deep blackberry/earth/fig aromas, some hazelnut too. Definitely finely-rendered, with tannin a bit more forceful today. This will be around for some time. As usual, a great deal.
Day 7 - Deep, no sign of oxidation, clay/pepper nose. Pepper/citrus flavors, deep, packed and huge, chewy length. This rocks - best day yet. Earl B. does it again. I wonder how these wines fare in the various wine publications? Not well, based on the price. Buy it and chew on some lamb.
$25
Clay/earth, game/sausage, licorice, fig/date, deep nose.
Round and dense in the mouth, with a bit more refinement and less brute power than the 2001 (not necessarily a good thing).
Still nicely loaded, with relatively fine tannin constricting the iron-laden finish. Distinctive Mourvedre.
Day 3 - Deep blackberry/earth/fig aromas, some hazelnut too. Definitely finely-rendered, with tannin a bit more forceful today. This will be around for some time. As usual, a great deal.
Day 7 - Deep, no sign of oxidation, clay/pepper nose. Pepper/citrus flavors, deep, packed and huge, chewy length. This rocks - best day yet. Earl B. does it again. I wonder how these wines fare in the various wine publications? Not well, based on the price. Buy it and chew on some lamb.
$25
Castellani, Cinque Stelle (5 star), Monte Cristi, Amarone 1997
Dull, murky, red.
Killer, evolved nose - smoke/campfire/truffle, cherry jam, blood/iron, herbs, toasted marshmallow and deep, sumptuous, "other stuff". Continues to evolve with air.
Round and packed, with cherry jam, truffle/earth/hazelnut and a citrus zest (indeed) note that brightens the finish. Long, subtle finish. Needs another day of air. Like the nose, I could sit here for hours watching this thing change.
Day 2 - Aromatics just oozing all over the place - cherry jam, duck fat, campfire, herbs, truffle, iron. Oh so savory. Matched in the mouth now too, although still constricted in the finish.
$35
Killer, evolved nose - smoke/campfire/truffle, cherry jam, blood/iron, herbs, toasted marshmallow and deep, sumptuous, "other stuff". Continues to evolve with air.
Round and packed, with cherry jam, truffle/earth/hazelnut and a citrus zest (indeed) note that brightens the finish. Long, subtle finish. Needs another day of air. Like the nose, I could sit here for hours watching this thing change.
Day 2 - Aromatics just oozing all over the place - cherry jam, duck fat, campfire, herbs, truffle, iron. Oh so savory. Matched in the mouth now too, although still constricted in the finish.
$35
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Palacios "Corullon" 2005 (Bierzo, Spain)
Purple.
Deep spicy, meaty, savory earth/roasted potato nose.
Round, envelops the mouth, but is taut too, thanks to strong acidity. Flavors are bound up, showing little more than earth and a hint of oak spice. Definitely needs to sit.
Day 4 - Deep, packed nose now shows a Syrah-like melted licorice/menthol/nut liqueur character. Intense and packed in the mouth, with serious acid-driven structural intensity. Nose repeats, with spicy/peppery action too. Loaded and built for some serious cellar time.
$55
Deep spicy, meaty, savory earth/roasted potato nose.
Round, envelops the mouth, but is taut too, thanks to strong acidity. Flavors are bound up, showing little more than earth and a hint of oak spice. Definitely needs to sit.
Day 4 - Deep, packed nose now shows a Syrah-like melted licorice/menthol/nut liqueur character. Intense and packed in the mouth, with serious acid-driven structural intensity. Nose repeats, with spicy/peppery action too. Loaded and built for some serious cellar time.
$55
Sierra Cantabria "Collecion Privada" Rioja 2003
Red/purple.
Reticent nose - citrus/pepper/earth/grilled meat.
Intense mouthfeel shows a bit of flesh in the mid-palate. A bit brawny at the moment, probably a (hot) vintage thing. Citrus chew along with a macaroon quality in the finish. Good stuff.
$38
Reticent nose - citrus/pepper/earth/grilled meat.
Intense mouthfeel shows a bit of flesh in the mid-palate. A bit brawny at the moment, probably a (hot) vintage thing. Citrus chew along with a macaroon quality in the finish. Good stuff.
$38
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Gauby "Les Calcinaires" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2007
Red.
Reasonably expressive nose - game, ground pepper, red fruit with an exotic pineapple flair.
Round, with subtle sweeteness in the mouth. Ground pepper and light game repeat. Obviously riper than the 2004, which also translates into better mid-palate flesh and overall flavor "density".
Day 2 - More typical herbs, game/roasted meat nose now. Riper than the '04, but that's not saying much, really. Very tight in the mouth, more so than yesterday.
$25
Reasonably expressive nose - game, ground pepper, red fruit with an exotic pineapple flair.
Round, with subtle sweeteness in the mouth. Ground pepper and light game repeat. Obviously riper than the 2004, which also translates into better mid-palate flesh and overall flavor "density".
Day 2 - More typical herbs, game/roasted meat nose now. Riper than the '04, but that's not saying much, really. Very tight in the mouth, more so than yesterday.
$25
Gauby "Les Calcinaires" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2004
Deep red.
Nose wrapped up a bit - earth/oak spice(?)/nut oil with red fruit underneath.
Lightweight in the mouth, with intense mineral/acid structure coating the front teeth. Cherry and mineral flavors are subtle and long. Mineral chew start to finish. Another wine that is completely out of tune with the contemporary wine scene. Seems like a great Beaujolais substitute. Try this with roast chicken.
Day 3 - More giving and attractive on the nose. More red fruit in the mouth, where I'm now reminded of Chianti, but not a particularly distinguished one. Finely rendered, linear. Lacks depth - picked early?
$22
Nose wrapped up a bit - earth/oak spice(?)/nut oil with red fruit underneath.
Lightweight in the mouth, with intense mineral/acid structure coating the front teeth. Cherry and mineral flavors are subtle and long. Mineral chew start to finish. Another wine that is completely out of tune with the contemporary wine scene. Seems like a great Beaujolais substitute. Try this with roast chicken.
Day 3 - More giving and attractive on the nose. More red fruit in the mouth, where I'm now reminded of Chianti, but not a particularly distinguished one. Finely rendered, linear. Lacks depth - picked early?
$22
Borsao Garnacha "Tres Picos" 2004 (Campo de Borja)
Deep red.
Deep raspberry/citrus coulis, toasted nut and light earth nose. Opened yesterday, when it showed a vibrant citrus zest pungency.
Similar in the mouth, with the evolution over a day matching that of the nose. Plush raspberry and light citrus flavors ride throught the mid-palate. Finishes with moderate citrus zest chew. Really good action, and stupidly cheap.
$14
Deep raspberry/citrus coulis, toasted nut and light earth nose. Opened yesterday, when it showed a vibrant citrus zest pungency.
Similar in the mouth, with the evolution over a day matching that of the nose. Plush raspberry and light citrus flavors ride throught the mid-palate. Finishes with moderate citrus zest chew. Really good action, and stupidly cheap.
$14
Friday, December 12, 2008
Olivares, Dulce Monastrell, Jumilla 2004
Opaque purple.
Deep, sumptuous, killer nose shows no heat/brandy influence (can't remember if this is fortified, believe it is not). Reduction sauce - figs, dates, nuts, spice. Exotic, fragrant, wood, too.
Deep, ridiculously sweet and mouthcoating, with the fragrant wood note repeating in the "finish". Despite its enormous depth, this still comes across as reasonably fresh. Absolutely FK. Yada ....
Day 5 - This really is a complete meal. Deep, sweet and loaded. Dried fruits and lifted, fragrant wood notes.
$35/500mL One of the best dessert buys on the planet. Every year.
Deep, sumptuous, killer nose shows no heat/brandy influence (can't remember if this is fortified, believe it is not). Reduction sauce - figs, dates, nuts, spice. Exotic, fragrant, wood, too.
Deep, ridiculously sweet and mouthcoating, with the fragrant wood note repeating in the "finish". Despite its enormous depth, this still comes across as reasonably fresh. Absolutely FK. Yada ....
Day 5 - This really is a complete meal. Deep, sweet and loaded. Dried fruits and lifted, fragrant wood notes.
$35/500mL One of the best dessert buys on the planet. Every year.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
P. Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Deep red, rust rim.
Immediate, wild aromas - blood/iron, savory meat, earth, garrigue, green bean (but this is almost 100% Grenache. I think, no Syrah) with kirsch underneath. Also a toasted nut character that I'd normally think came from oak, but this is aged in concrete (or neutral, large oak).
Deep and round, but an edge of acidity and iron and a green sourness (like the l'Hortus) keep any textural sweetness at bay. Intense and tough sledding in the mid-palate. Iron, garrigue and cherry flavors manage to drive through. Long and almost "minerally" finish dominated by iron. Can't imagine anyone mistaking this for a wine from Janasse or Clos St. Jean.
Hate to flog a dead horse, punny, but this needs a dead animal in the worst way. Lamb.
Day 4 - Still aromatically crazy, in a good way. Some will find this rude, however. Much easier in the mid-palate, but still edgy. Long, green, smoky, iron/blood, cherry jam finish. Hilariously out of sync with the contemporary wine scene.
$65
Immediate, wild aromas - blood/iron, savory meat, earth, garrigue, green bean (but this is almost 100% Grenache. I think, no Syrah) with kirsch underneath. Also a toasted nut character that I'd normally think came from oak, but this is aged in concrete (or neutral, large oak).
Deep and round, but an edge of acidity and iron and a green sourness (like the l'Hortus) keep any textural sweetness at bay. Intense and tough sledding in the mid-palate. Iron, garrigue and cherry flavors manage to drive through. Long and almost "minerally" finish dominated by iron. Can't imagine anyone mistaking this for a wine from Janasse or Clos St. Jean.
Hate to flog a dead horse, punny, but this needs a dead animal in the worst way. Lamb.
Day 4 - Still aromatically crazy, in a good way. Some will find this rude, however. Much easier in the mid-palate, but still edgy. Long, green, smoky, iron/blood, cherry jam finish. Hilariously out of sync with the contemporary wine scene.
$65
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Domaine de L'Hortus "Grande Cuvee" Pic Saint Loup 2004
Deep. slightly dull, red.
Deep spicy, meaty nose is difficult to articulate. There's also a "green" earth character that brings a green chile tamale to mind. There must be some Syrah here.
Round, with a spicy, stemmy, green edge. There's definitely Syrah here. Very structured in a northern Rhone sort of way. Middle-weight and intense, but difficult to enjoy at the moment. Needs appropriate food. Remarkably similar to the L'Aigueliere "Cote Doree" 1996 tasted earlier this year.
$25
Deep spicy, meaty nose is difficult to articulate. There's also a "green" earth character that brings a green chile tamale to mind. There must be some Syrah here.
Round, with a spicy, stemmy, green edge. There's definitely Syrah here. Very structured in a northern Rhone sort of way. Middle-weight and intense, but difficult to enjoy at the moment. Needs appropriate food. Remarkably similar to the L'Aigueliere "Cote Doree" 1996 tasted earlier this year.
$25
Monday, December 8, 2008
Elderton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa 2005
Deep red.
Sweet, creamy herb nose reminds me of Shirvington's 2002 Cabernet tasted years ago. But this is less flamboyant. Earth, oak spice and blackcurrant underneath.
Herb, oak spice and brown sugar make an immediate impact in the mouth. Nice roundness and initial harmony. Gets a bit dis-jointed in the finish, with acid and tannin going haywire. Not sure what to make of this. Like this less each time I go back.
Day 3 - More integrated aromatically, with blackcurrant hitting early. Brown sugar and acid-driven structure hitting later now.
Still get the impression that this will never sing, though. Good material, but any kind of structural reconciliation doesn't seem to be in the cards.
$25
Sweet, creamy herb nose reminds me of Shirvington's 2002 Cabernet tasted years ago. But this is less flamboyant. Earth, oak spice and blackcurrant underneath.
Herb, oak spice and brown sugar make an immediate impact in the mouth. Nice roundness and initial harmony. Gets a bit dis-jointed in the finish, with acid and tannin going haywire. Not sure what to make of this. Like this less each time I go back.
Day 3 - More integrated aromatically, with blackcurrant hitting early. Brown sugar and acid-driven structure hitting later now.
Still get the impression that this will never sing, though. Good material, but any kind of structural reconciliation doesn't seem to be in the cards.
$25
Calvet-Thunevin "Cuvee Constance" Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes 2005
Deep, bright, red.
Earth/oak/nut nicely woven into the deep, spicy red and black cherry/raspberry fruit nose. Shoe polish and licorice too. Very fresh and deep, not an easy task.
Really plush, deep and sweet in the mouth, with bright acidity framing everything lightly. This is really good, very fine. Reminds me of the Artazu de Santa Cruz Garnacha, only this has better balance. Acid-constriction tames the finish. I'd drink this over the next 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Very deep, confectionary nose of black raspberry, almost like Banyuls. Similar to day 1, but deeper. Acidity still comes on strong. Long, pure, mineral finish.
$18? Can't remember. Stupid value.
Earth/oak/nut nicely woven into the deep, spicy red and black cherry/raspberry fruit nose. Shoe polish and licorice too. Very fresh and deep, not an easy task.
Really plush, deep and sweet in the mouth, with bright acidity framing everything lightly. This is really good, very fine. Reminds me of the Artazu de Santa Cruz Garnacha, only this has better balance. Acid-constriction tames the finish. I'd drink this over the next 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Very deep, confectionary nose of black raspberry, almost like Banyuls. Similar to day 1, but deeper. Acidity still comes on strong. Long, pure, mineral finish.
$18? Can't remember. Stupid value.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2003
Red.
Melded, sexy, nose of oak spices, earth and cherry coulis. Getting more sumptuous as it airs.
Round, broad and mouthcoating, with an edge of acidity and sulfides keeping everything in check. Not at all flamboyant at this point. Quite structured, in fact, with acid/sulfide edge dominating the finish and coating the front teeth in finely ground "chew". This will be interesting to watch over the next 5-8 years.
Day 3- Great nose that shows significant oak influence, something I rarely see in these wines. But they are also being released sooner. Much broader in the mouth, with a distinct cinnamon edge that morphs into a disulfide character further into the finish. Very interesting stuff. This may evolve for years and be very long-lived.
$130
Melded, sexy, nose of oak spices, earth and cherry coulis. Getting more sumptuous as it airs.
Round, broad and mouthcoating, with an edge of acidity and sulfides keeping everything in check. Not at all flamboyant at this point. Quite structured, in fact, with acid/sulfide edge dominating the finish and coating the front teeth in finely ground "chew". This will be interesting to watch over the next 5-8 years.
Day 3- Great nose that shows significant oak influence, something I rarely see in these wines. But they are also being released sooner. Much broader in the mouth, with a distinct cinnamon edge that morphs into a disulfide character further into the finish. Very interesting stuff. This may evolve for years and be very long-lived.
$130
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero 2004
Deep purple/red.
Suave, toasty marshmallow oak, macaroon and black fruit custard nose.
Intense and deep, with acid-driven structure framing deeply concentrated flavors immediately. Loaded, with a plush black fruit and oak spice mid-palate. Structure intermittently interrupts finish.
As good as this is, you wonder what a bit of Cabernet Franc, Graciano or Garnacha (or Malvasia) might do for this wine. Pesquera too.
$50 gift. 100% Tempranillo.
Suave, toasty marshmallow oak, macaroon and black fruit custard nose.
Intense and deep, with acid-driven structure framing deeply concentrated flavors immediately. Loaded, with a plush black fruit and oak spice mid-palate. Structure intermittently interrupts finish.
As good as this is, you wonder what a bit of Cabernet Franc, Graciano or Garnacha (or Malvasia) might do for this wine. Pesquera too.
$50 gift. 100% Tempranillo.
Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2005
Murky purple/red.
Broad/thick nose - coconut/black fruit custard, earth and suave oak spices.
Really covers the mouth, initially, then strong acidity and moderate tannin dive in. Pretty constricted in the mid-palate, presently, but flavors eventually wiggle out. Definitely needs a few years to strut. Opened yesterday.
$25
Broad/thick nose - coconut/black fruit custard, earth and suave oak spices.
Really covers the mouth, initially, then strong acidity and moderate tannin dive in. Pretty constricted in the mid-palate, presently, but flavors eventually wiggle out. Definitely needs a few years to strut. Opened yesterday.
$25
Hiedler "Thal" Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2006
Straw.
Smoky, popcorn/creamed corn nose currently dominated by sulfides. But actually attractive, particularly for white Burgundy people. Herbs and citrus/pear underneath. Sulfide character receding with air and warming.
Intense, bright flavors are all over the map - sulfide/skunk, lemon, fresh apple, fresh herbs. Jesus. Definitely has RS to fill in the mid-palate and extend the finish. But there's so much mineral/phenolic/sulfide "chew" you really don't notice. Wild, killer action.
$30, screwcap, 14% alcohol listed
Smoky, popcorn/creamed corn nose currently dominated by sulfides. But actually attractive, particularly for white Burgundy people. Herbs and citrus/pear underneath. Sulfide character receding with air and warming.
Intense, bright flavors are all over the map - sulfide/skunk, lemon, fresh apple, fresh herbs. Jesus. Definitely has RS to fill in the mid-palate and extend the finish. But there's so much mineral/phenolic/sulfide "chew" you really don't notice. Wild, killer action.
$30, screwcap, 14% alcohol listed
Yeringberg, Marsanne(67%)/Roussanne(33%), Yarra Valley 2001
Light yellow.
Delicate almond paste, pineapple and spiced apple nose. There's also a Marsanne "thickness" you can smell.
Bright lemon/pineapple lift, with a Syrah-like menthol/licorice undertone. Then almond paste and lemon on the long, minerally finish. Much fresher than you'd guess. Vibrant, in fact. Keeps changing too..
Very interesting, suave, action from a cool-climate region in Australia.
$35
Delicate almond paste, pineapple and spiced apple nose. There's also a Marsanne "thickness" you can smell.
Bright lemon/pineapple lift, with a Syrah-like menthol/licorice undertone. Then almond paste and lemon on the long, minerally finish. Much fresher than you'd guess. Vibrant, in fact. Keeps changing too..
Very interesting, suave, action from a cool-climate region in Australia.
$35
Monday, December 1, 2008
Quinta do Vallado, Douro "Reserva" 2003
Purple/red.
Grilled meat/toasty oak (though suave at this point) and dark chocolate nose. Deep, with a very intense, roasted, black currant jam undertone.
Very dense/concentrated, mouth-coating impression. Huge and chewy, but has essentially no delineation of flavor. Needs the lamb stew I had last night.
Day 4 - Deep, but is now a bit flat. Roasted in the mouth too. Hot vintage, best to drink this now.
$45. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), both Tourigas, Tinta Amarela and Souzao.
Grilled meat/toasty oak (though suave at this point) and dark chocolate nose. Deep, with a very intense, roasted, black currant jam undertone.
Very dense/concentrated, mouth-coating impression. Huge and chewy, but has essentially no delineation of flavor. Needs the lamb stew I had last night.
Day 4 - Deep, but is now a bit flat. Roasted in the mouth too. Hot vintage, best to drink this now.
$45. Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), both Tourigas, Tinta Amarela and Souzao.
Montirius, Vacqueyras "Garrigues" 2005
Red/purple.
Clay/earth, black fruit custard and sexy oak spice nose. Deep, loaded.
Round, plush entry is simultaneously framed by mineral/acid/tannin structure. Chewy, but black fruit and licorice flavors sail on. Two tracks. VGS. Subtle garrigue notes (stem inclusion?) hit late. Packed, and needs of several years of cellaring.
$25
Clay/earth, black fruit custard and sexy oak spice nose. Deep, loaded.
Round, plush entry is simultaneously framed by mineral/acid/tannin structure. Chewy, but black fruit and licorice flavors sail on. Two tracks. VGS. Subtle garrigue notes (stem inclusion?) hit late. Packed, and needs of several years of cellaring.
$25
Yalumba "MGS" Barossa Valley 2004
Purple/red.
White pepper/juniper, earth, black fruit nose.
Zesty white pepper/juniper in the mouth, too. There's a citrus zest (orange) component as well as a bit of textural "give". Not fat, but not brutal either. Very tasty, very well-made. Francophiles would like this.
Day 4 - Deeper and savory aromatically, with juniper white pepper now lifting the tail end. Really good, vibrant action.
$28. 60% Mourvedre, 22% Grenache, 18% Shiraz
White pepper/juniper, earth, black fruit nose.
Zesty white pepper/juniper in the mouth, too. There's a citrus zest (orange) component as well as a bit of textural "give". Not fat, but not brutal either. Very tasty, very well-made. Francophiles would like this.
Day 4 - Deeper and savory aromatically, with juniper white pepper now lifting the tail end. Really good, vibrant action.
$28. 60% Mourvedre, 22% Grenache, 18% Shiraz
Friday, November 28, 2008
Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc 2006
Straw/yellow.
Lime flesh, pineapple, nut and earth aromas. Very fresh. Can't remember ever getting lime in CdP Blanc before.
Fresh and lifted in the mouth too. Flavors mirroring nose, with almond paste added and an emphasis on fresh pineapple. "Minerally", chewy finish. Not thick at all. Is this partly a result of a high percentage of Clairette? Long, subtle, chewy finish.
$50
Lime flesh, pineapple, nut and earth aromas. Very fresh. Can't remember ever getting lime in CdP Blanc before.
Fresh and lifted in the mouth too. Flavors mirroring nose, with almond paste added and an emphasis on fresh pineapple. "Minerally", chewy finish. Not thick at all. Is this partly a result of a high percentage of Clairette? Long, subtle, chewy finish.
$50
Archery Summit, Pinot Noir "Premier Cuvee" Willamette Valley 2006
Light ruby/red.
Less fruit here, more herb and oak influence on the nose.
Deep, round and plush, with nice acidity. Little, though, in the way of flavor delineation or complexity. I even get some heat (14.2% listed). Also opened yesterday. Showed better then.
Gift - $100?
Less fruit here, more herb and oak influence on the nose.
Deep, round and plush, with nice acidity. Little, though, in the way of flavor delineation or complexity. I even get some heat (14.2% listed). Also opened yesterday. Showed better then.
Gift - $100?
Archery Summit, Pinot Noir "Arcus Estate" Dundee Hills 2006
Red.
Discreet nose - crancherry, raspberry, herb, subtle oak spice and nut.
Round, with a sweet textural entry. Acidity kicks in on the mid-palate, framing pure red fruit and woodsy flavors. Tightly wound, with acid/tannin synergy cutting into the finish. This was opened yesterday. Showing better now.
Gift - $70?
Discreet nose - crancherry, raspberry, herb, subtle oak spice and nut.
Round, with a sweet textural entry. Acidity kicks in on the mid-palate, framing pure red fruit and woodsy flavors. Tightly wound, with acid/tannin synergy cutting into the finish. This was opened yesterday. Showing better now.
Gift - $70?
Sunday, November 23, 2008
FX Pichler, Gruner Veltliner, Kellerberg, Smaragd 2005
Yellow.
Jellied white fruit, lentil, pepper, grapefruit aromas. Very deep, but not precise.
Huge depth in the mouth, with a CO2-like zesty lift in the mouth. Crazy - absolutely FK. Pepper, grapefruit zest, lentil flavors are vivid, huge and long. There has to be RS here, but it's buried in extract/flavor depth. Finishes with a chewy/tannic character that will convert "red only" folks. Shaking my head.
Day 3 - There's a smoky (not from oak) aromatic nuance now. Great depth in the mouth, leavened by citrus zest/mineral chew. Extremely fine palate-impression for something so packed. Pungent, but sweet, grapefruit zest/pepper/lentil finish (very) slowly fades away.
$80
Jellied white fruit, lentil, pepper, grapefruit aromas. Very deep, but not precise.
Huge depth in the mouth, with a CO2-like zesty lift in the mouth. Crazy - absolutely FK. Pepper, grapefruit zest, lentil flavors are vivid, huge and long. There has to be RS here, but it's buried in extract/flavor depth. Finishes with a chewy/tannic character that will convert "red only" folks. Shaking my head.
Day 3 - There's a smoky (not from oak) aromatic nuance now. Great depth in the mouth, leavened by citrus zest/mineral chew. Extremely fine palate-impression for something so packed. Pungent, but sweet, grapefruit zest/pepper/lentil finish (very) slowly fades away.
$80
Santa Cruz de Artazu 2004 Navarra (Spain)
Deep red.
Shoe polish, pepper, black raspberry pie-filling, menthol/licorice and brown spice nose.
Round/sweet entry shows a slightly abrasive alcohol/structure synergy. More refined mineral/acid structure shows post mid-palate. Another tightly-wound wine. This will be interesting to watch. I think it will work into its structure and "shake the fun stuff" at some point. But when?
Day 3 - Add a seared meat note to the nose. More integration in the mouth, though alcohol and acid still clash in the finish.
$40, 100% high altitude Garnacha.
Shoe polish, pepper, black raspberry pie-filling, menthol/licorice and brown spice nose.
Round/sweet entry shows a slightly abrasive alcohol/structure synergy. More refined mineral/acid structure shows post mid-palate. Another tightly-wound wine. This will be interesting to watch. I think it will work into its structure and "shake the fun stuff" at some point. But when?
Day 3 - Add a seared meat note to the nose. More integration in the mouth, though alcohol and acid still clash in the finish.
$40, 100% high altitude Garnacha.
Domaine des Escaravailles, Cotes-du-Rhone "Les Sablieres" 2007
Red.
Primary aromas of buttered raspberries and earth. Simple, but very attractive.
Round, with a mineral/acid underpinning. Cherry/raspberry flavors are simple, but pure and reasonably deep. Acidity drives fresh fruit flavors. Use this as a Beaujolais substitute.
Day 3 - More typical southern Rhone aromas - earth and spice now squarely in the picture. Better in the mouth, too, for the same reason. A bit of iron works into the finish. I'd decant this.
$15. Synthetic cork.
Primary aromas of buttered raspberries and earth. Simple, but very attractive.
Round, with a mineral/acid underpinning. Cherry/raspberry flavors are simple, but pure and reasonably deep. Acidity drives fresh fruit flavors. Use this as a Beaujolais substitute.
Day 3 - More typical southern Rhone aromas - earth and spice now squarely in the picture. Better in the mouth, too, for the same reason. A bit of iron works into the finish. I'd decant this.
$15. Synthetic cork.
Aphillanthes, Cotes-du Rhone Villages "Vieilles Vignes" 2004
Deep red.
Deep, slightly baked nose of red and black cherry, shoe polish and earth.
Deep and sweet (texturally) in the mouth, almost immediately stiffened by strong acidity. High-strung through the finish, but cherry/earth flavors ride it. Reminds me of Priorat and old vine Zinfandel. Very long.
Day 3 - Similar to day 1, but oak contribution a bit more obvious. Acidity hits a bit later. Definitely more old vine Zin in nature.
$25. Rocks.
Deep, slightly baked nose of red and black cherry, shoe polish and earth.
Deep and sweet (texturally) in the mouth, almost immediately stiffened by strong acidity. High-strung through the finish, but cherry/earth flavors ride it. Reminds me of Priorat and old vine Zinfandel. Very long.
Day 3 - Similar to day 1, but oak contribution a bit more obvious. Acidity hits a bit later. Definitely more old vine Zin in nature.
$25. Rocks.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Muga, Reserva, Rioja 2003
Red.
Coconut, grilled meat, custard, earth and black fruit nose.
Citrus/pepper entry, intense, linear. Concentrated/packed/non-fat. No let up from start to finish. Still chewing citrus/pepper flavor 30+ seconds later. This can only get better with several more years in the bottle.
$25
Coconut, grilled meat, custard, earth and black fruit nose.
Citrus/pepper entry, intense, linear. Concentrated/packed/non-fat. No let up from start to finish. Still chewing citrus/pepper flavor 30+ seconds later. This can only get better with several more years in the bottle.
$25
Conde de Valdemar, Rioja Reserva 2001
Deep red, some rim evolution.
Savory meat stew, oak spice, pepper, earth nose. Expressive, open knit.
Round, middle-weight entry, acid-dominant. No fat. Intensely flavored - tight-fisted red cherry, earth, iron. Long, lean finish. Cherry pit finish coats the front teeth. Foodies will love this.
$25. VGS
Savory meat stew, oak spice, pepper, earth nose. Expressive, open knit.
Round, middle-weight entry, acid-dominant. No fat. Intensely flavored - tight-fisted red cherry, earth, iron. Long, lean finish. Cherry pit finish coats the front teeth. Foodies will love this.
$25. VGS
Torremoron, Ribera del Duero "Tempranillo" 2006
Red/purple.
Oak spice, earth, grilled steak nose.
Round, full, citrus/pepper entry. Acid constriction shuts down the mid-palate to some extent, but also drives citrus/pepper flavor well into the finish. Definitely chewy, but not crazy. This has real character and depth for something so cheap.
Love the name. Give this to someone that loves fruit-driven, confectionary wines. You'll never hear from them again.
$15. Synthetic cork.
Oak spice, earth, grilled steak nose.
Round, full, citrus/pepper entry. Acid constriction shuts down the mid-palate to some extent, but also drives citrus/pepper flavor well into the finish. Definitely chewy, but not crazy. This has real character and depth for something so cheap.
Love the name. Give this to someone that loves fruit-driven, confectionary wines. You'll never hear from them again.
$15. Synthetic cork.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Chateau de Fonbel, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2005
Red/purple.
Toasted nut, grilled meat, restrained nose.
Intensely flavored - with mineral chew really taking over the mouth and shutting down the front teeth. Iron note late in the finish. This isn't singing. Can't even make a guttural noise at the moment. Seems far more closed than a bottle several months ago.
$25
Toasted nut, grilled meat, restrained nose.
Intensely flavored - with mineral chew really taking over the mouth and shutting down the front teeth. Iron note late in the finish. This isn't singing. Can't even make a guttural noise at the moment. Seems far more closed than a bottle several months ago.
$25
Chateau Corbin, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2005
Purple/red.
Deep, integrated nose - black fruit, toasted nut, earth, herbs ... Suave, not obliterated by new oak.
Similar easy, fluid flavor flow - adds a pepper note in the mouth. Structure builds into the finish, coating the side teeth in mineral/tannic chew. Probably best over the next 5-7 years. Could drink quite a bit of this.
$28
Deep, integrated nose - black fruit, toasted nut, earth, herbs ... Suave, not obliterated by new oak.
Similar easy, fluid flavor flow - adds a pepper note in the mouth. Structure builds into the finish, coating the side teeth in mineral/tannic chew. Probably best over the next 5-7 years. Could drink quite a bit of this.
$28
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Chateau Clarke, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux 2005
Opaque purple/red.
Toast, coconut, black fruit, clay/earth.
Deep, sweet black raspberry flavor front and center, earth and spice notes follow. Middle-weight, but very, very good density. Coconut kicks in on the finish. Reasonably fine structure hits the front teeth without disrupting flavor flow. This needs 4-5 years and should drink well for several more after that.
Nice stuff.
$28
Toast, coconut, black fruit, clay/earth.
Deep, sweet black raspberry flavor front and center, earth and spice notes follow. Middle-weight, but very, very good density. Coconut kicks in on the finish. Reasonably fine structure hits the front teeth without disrupting flavor flow. This needs 4-5 years and should drink well for several more after that.
Nice stuff.
$28
Monday, November 10, 2008
Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure "Puig Oriol" 2005
Deep red.
Deep, but middle-weight, aromas of black cherry/raspberry liqueur, earth and licorice.
Texturally, enveloping sweetness of raspberry jam, mineral and earth flavors. Difficult to differentiate between structure and flavor here. Great depth of liqueur-like fruit and balancing mineral/tannic backbone.
Stupid value. Mostly Grenache from the (eastern) coastal area just north of the Spanish border.
Day 4 - Still beautiful, long. Great flavor/structure tension and "interplay" (Schildknecht-ism). It is ridiculous that you can buy this for $25.
$25
Deep, but middle-weight, aromas of black cherry/raspberry liqueur, earth and licorice.
Texturally, enveloping sweetness of raspberry jam, mineral and earth flavors. Difficult to differentiate between structure and flavor here. Great depth of liqueur-like fruit and balancing mineral/tannic backbone.
Stupid value. Mostly Grenache from the (eastern) coastal area just north of the Spanish border.
Day 4 - Still beautiful, long. Great flavor/structure tension and "interplay" (Schildknecht-ism). It is ridiculous that you can buy this for $25.
$25
Montebuena, Rioja 2005
Red.
Earth, toast, souffle, cran/raspberry nose. Light intensity, pure.
Pepper/earth/cranberry flavors are zesty and fresh. Completely acid-dominant structure. Tasty stuff, true to the territory.
Long, lean citrus/cranberry finish.
Talk about a turkey match... Cheap to boot.
$14
Earth, toast, souffle, cran/raspberry nose. Light intensity, pure.
Pepper/earth/cranberry flavors are zesty and fresh. Completely acid-dominant structure. Tasty stuff, true to the territory.
Long, lean citrus/cranberry finish.
Talk about a turkey match... Cheap to boot.
$14
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Breton, Chinon (Cabernet Franc, Loire Valley) "Beaumont" 2005
Opaque purple.
Aromas of toast, Bordeaux weeds/grilled asparagus and blackcurrant. Very concentrated.
Quite intensely flavored, with blackcurrant, chalk/mineral front and center. Low alcohol obvious (listed at 12%), lightweight but packed with flavor. Acidity drives the chalky/tannic structural impression in the mouth. Very classy overall impression.
Roasted game bird, anyone?
$22, synthetic cork. Too bad, as this would age well under screwcap.
Aromas of toast, Bordeaux weeds/grilled asparagus and blackcurrant. Very concentrated.
Quite intensely flavored, with blackcurrant, chalk/mineral front and center. Low alcohol obvious (listed at 12%), lightweight but packed with flavor. Acidity drives the chalky/tannic structural impression in the mouth. Very classy overall impression.
Roasted game bird, anyone?
$22, synthetic cork. Too bad, as this would age well under screwcap.
Julia Roch e Hilos "Las Gravas" Jumilla 2003
Deep red/purple.
Deep, saucy, nose - fig/prune/raspberry jam, earth/hay, grilled meat.
Round entry with a strong mineral/acid/tannin edge that blunts mid-palate flavor. The odd hay note persists. I'm not sure where this is headed. Impressive raw material, but the extraction seems excessive.
Mostly Monastrell (?)
$20
Deep, saucy, nose - fig/prune/raspberry jam, earth/hay, grilled meat.
Round entry with a strong mineral/acid/tannin edge that blunts mid-palate flavor. The odd hay note persists. I'm not sure where this is headed. Impressive raw material, but the extraction seems excessive.
Mostly Monastrell (?)
$20
Friday, November 7, 2008
Scholium Project "The Prince in His Caves" (Sauv. Blanc) 2006
Yellow.
Sweet pea, maple syrup nose. Deep, sweet (seeming).
Thick palate impression - sweet pea flavor then a strange saline character that is, despite its individuality, off-putting.
This tastes very much like wines of mine in the late 90s that had depth but no clarity of flavor. Much "older" than the vintage would suggest, with little complexity to recommend it.
S.Blanc fermented on the skins, to some extent. I'm not sure what I paid for this, but it was too much.
$?
Sweet pea, maple syrup nose. Deep, sweet (seeming).
Thick palate impression - sweet pea flavor then a strange saline character that is, despite its individuality, off-putting.
This tastes very much like wines of mine in the late 90s that had depth but no clarity of flavor. Much "older" than the vintage would suggest, with little complexity to recommend it.
S.Blanc fermented on the skins, to some extent. I'm not sure what I paid for this, but it was too much.
$?
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Domaine Courbis, Cornas "La Sabarotte" 2003
Very deep red.
Licorice and suave, oak, hazelnut. Hint of menthol. Reminds me a bit of certain CA Syrahs.
Dense/packed in the mouth, burly, in fact. Licorice and some sulphide (coffee/skunk) action. Then a wall of acid-driven tannin flushes any flavor clean out of the mouth. This will be interesting to watch. Will it ever shake the fun stuff?
Day 4 - Menthol/licorice action still reminds me of CA cool, coastal, Syrah. Much better flesh in the mouth, with flavors echoing nose. In fact, this isn't showing any intrusive structural element at all.
$65
Licorice and suave, oak, hazelnut. Hint of menthol. Reminds me a bit of certain CA Syrahs.
Dense/packed in the mouth, burly, in fact. Licorice and some sulphide (coffee/skunk) action. Then a wall of acid-driven tannin flushes any flavor clean out of the mouth. This will be interesting to watch. Will it ever shake the fun stuff?
Day 4 - Menthol/licorice action still reminds me of CA cool, coastal, Syrah. Much better flesh in the mouth, with flavors echoing nose. In fact, this isn't showing any intrusive structural element at all.
$65
Hecht & Bannier, Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2003
Deep red.
Iron, herb, game, iodine-funkadelic nose is not as crazy as it sounds. But I can't think of too many other areas this could have come from. There's some chocolate/red fruit here, just buried.
Iron/herb action shows up in the mouth too. Taut structure, reminds me of the N. Rhone. No fat at all, with just a hint of Grenache sweetness. Fun stuff, and way better than it should be $$-wise. I'd guess this will drink very well with real food for at least 4-6 more years. Maybe much longer.
Predominantly Grenache (apparently) with Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah.
$18
Iron, herb, game, iodine-funkadelic nose is not as crazy as it sounds. But I can't think of too many other areas this could have come from. There's some chocolate/red fruit here, just buried.
Iron/herb action shows up in the mouth too. Taut structure, reminds me of the N. Rhone. No fat at all, with just a hint of Grenache sweetness. Fun stuff, and way better than it should be $$-wise. I'd guess this will drink very well with real food for at least 4-6 more years. Maybe much longer.
Predominantly Grenache (apparently) with Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah.
$18
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Craggy Range, Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Vyd (NZ) 2008
Water/platinum.
Typical NZ SB nose, but a bit less pungent.
Ditto in the mouth. Deeper than usual, with a definite, ripe, kiwi/peach note. Nice mineral/herb chew on the finish. Still, I miss the vibrant, slap to the face character I love in most of these wines.
$22
Typical NZ SB nose, but a bit less pungent.
Ditto in the mouth. Deeper than usual, with a definite, ripe, kiwi/peach note. Nice mineral/herb chew on the finish. Still, I miss the vibrant, slap to the face character I love in most of these wines.
$22
Monday, November 3, 2008
Bouissiere, Gigondas 2005
Red/purple.
Not as flashy as the Grand Romane on the nose, but deeper where it counts. In the raw material department. Very deep, black nose - earth, licorice with a deep Grenache raspberry liqueur note buried.
Great sweetness and peppery depth in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol in the mid-palate, but I don't care. The chewy/spicy driving action here is the real deal. This makes both the other Gigondas look like popcorn fart airheads. Packed and "painfully intense" (Tanzerism).
FK
$45
Not as flashy as the Grand Romane on the nose, but deeper where it counts. In the raw material department. Very deep, black nose - earth, licorice with a deep Grenache raspberry liqueur note buried.
Great sweetness and peppery depth in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol in the mid-palate, but I don't care. The chewy/spicy driving action here is the real deal. This makes both the other Gigondas look like popcorn fart airheads. Packed and "painfully intense" (Tanzerism).
FK
$45
Domaine Grand Romane (Pierre Amadieu) "Cuvee Prestige" Gigondas 2005
Deep red.
Deep nose shows some very well-integrated oak influence. Black fruit, toasted oak nuts, truffle/earth and a meaty note.
Packed, plush and a bit jammy with a welcome pepper nuance kicking off, with garrigue and dark fruit taking over. More serious structure here, but the flavor intensity more than makes up for it.
VGS. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 15 % Syrah
All new oak here (back label)
$25
Deep nose shows some very well-integrated oak influence. Black fruit, toasted oak nuts, truffle/earth and a meaty note.
Packed, plush and a bit jammy with a welcome pepper nuance kicking off, with garrigue and dark fruit taking over. More serious structure here, but the flavor intensity more than makes up for it.
VGS. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 15 % Syrah
All new oak here (back label)
$25
Domaine Carobelle (Vignerons de Caractere), Gigondas 2005
Red.
Cranberry jam, earth, shrimp shell nose.
Round and packed with cranberry jam fruit. Big mid-palate with acid-driven structure providing some chew in the finish. Very nice action, just lacks complexity.
$18
Cranberry jam, earth, shrimp shell nose.
Round and packed with cranberry jam fruit. Big mid-palate with acid-driven structure providing some chew in the finish. Very nice action, just lacks complexity.
$18
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Olazabal "Meandro do Vale Meao" Douro (Portugal) 2005
Red/purple.
More expressive than the 2004 on the nose - pepper/licorice/menthol - reminds me of a Pax Syrah.
Similar in the mouth. Not nearly as deep as the '04, but more finely rendered. Wow, what a cool set of wines from the same producer. These guys know how to adjust to vintage variation - take an outside pitch to the opposite field. I'll be buying more of both.
$40
More expressive than the 2004 on the nose - pepper/licorice/menthol - reminds me of a Pax Syrah.
Similar in the mouth. Not nearly as deep as the '04, but more finely rendered. Wow, what a cool set of wines from the same producer. These guys know how to adjust to vintage variation - take an outside pitch to the opposite field. I'll be buying more of both.
$40
Olazabal "Meandro do Vale Meao" Douro (Portugal) 2004
Deep purple.
Toast, grilled meat, deep blackberry and earth nose. Killer, savory.
Packed in the mouth, non-fat, totally loaded, without any sense of heavy-handed extraction. Holy shit, this is good. Pepper, blackberry ... backed up by serious, but well-judged, acid-driven structure.
Totally killer action. Needs a few more years in the bottle.
Tinta Roriz (tempranillo), Tourigas Nacional and Franca, and Tintas Amarela and Barroca.
$35
Toast, grilled meat, deep blackberry and earth nose. Killer, savory.
Packed in the mouth, non-fat, totally loaded, without any sense of heavy-handed extraction. Holy shit, this is good. Pepper, blackberry ... backed up by serious, but well-judged, acid-driven structure.
Totally killer action. Needs a few more years in the bottle.
Tinta Roriz (tempranillo), Tourigas Nacional and Franca, and Tintas Amarela and Barroca.
$35
Mas des Dames, Coteaux du Languedoc 2005
Purple/red.
Earth, shoe polish, licorice, herb and black fruit aromas. Very nice depth.
Intense, obviously southern French (don't ask me why - can't articulate) entry. More gamy/earthy (nothing crazy though) than Spanish action only slightly south. Stinky French? Maybe, but complexity has many manifestations. I'm buying more, to cellar.
50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah.
Day 3 - Very well-made, with game/Brett character well in hand. Structure is slightly grainy, but supports without being intrusive. Very enjoyable, interesting and should be great with real food.
$18
Earth, shoe polish, licorice, herb and black fruit aromas. Very nice depth.
Intense, obviously southern French (don't ask me why - can't articulate) entry. More gamy/earthy (nothing crazy though) than Spanish action only slightly south. Stinky French? Maybe, but complexity has many manifestations. I'm buying more, to cellar.
50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah.
Day 3 - Very well-made, with game/Brett character well in hand. Structure is slightly grainy, but supports without being intrusive. Very enjoyable, interesting and should be great with real food.
$18
Monday, October 27, 2008
Le Colombier "Vieilles Vignes" Vacqueyras 2005
Deep red.
Deep, intense, spicy, shoe polish, red cherry jam aromas. A totally different, thrilling, animal.
Ditto in the mouth, nothing facile here. Loaded, chewy, spicy, packed red and black fruit in the mouth. Structure is significant, with acidity driving significant (stem?) tannin. This rocks.
Day 3 - Now a deep, medicinal/dried herb, aromatic note. Tamer in the mouth now, and a bit flat, though still deep. Low SO2?
Still think this will benefit from short term (2-3 years) cellaring.
$20 - Another stupid deal.
Deep, intense, spicy, shoe polish, red cherry jam aromas. A totally different, thrilling, animal.
Ditto in the mouth, nothing facile here. Loaded, chewy, spicy, packed red and black fruit in the mouth. Structure is significant, with acidity driving significant (stem?) tannin. This rocks.
Day 3 - Now a deep, medicinal/dried herb, aromatic note. Tamer in the mouth now, and a bit flat, though still deep. Low SO2?
Still think this will benefit from short term (2-3 years) cellaring.
$20 - Another stupid deal.
Domaine de la Curniere, Vacqueyras 2006
Red.
Spicy cranberry/earth nose. More than a little Pinot-ish.
Broad, mouth-filling texture, with flavors matching aromas. Not incredibly complex, but many Burgundy lovers wouldn't mind this as a house wine. Acid-driven, tannic structure also reminds me of Burgundy/Oregon Pinot.
Day 3 - Ditto. Earth first now on the nose. Tasty. Simple.
$17
Spicy cranberry/earth nose. More than a little Pinot-ish.
Broad, mouth-filling texture, with flavors matching aromas. Not incredibly complex, but many Burgundy lovers wouldn't mind this as a house wine. Acid-driven, tannic structure also reminds me of Burgundy/Oregon Pinot.
Day 3 - Ditto. Earth first now on the nose. Tasty. Simple.
$17
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Las Rocas Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Catalayud (Spain) 2003
Deepish red.
Hazelnut, grapefruit/orange zest, kirsch, deep raspberry coulis aromatics.
Still extremely vibrant in the mouth - crazy citrus zest pungency and a spicy ketchup undertone. Almost abrasive in its flavor intensity. Actually, it is abrasive, in a positive sense that may represent a new use of the term. Humorous as well - a big, thick, extended middle finger for those whose sole wine concern is "seamlessness".
Day 7 - All beets now, in a positive/earthy sense. Just a hint of oxidation setting in.
$15. Yes, this is a stupid value.
Hazelnut, grapefruit/orange zest, kirsch, deep raspberry coulis aromatics.
Still extremely vibrant in the mouth - crazy citrus zest pungency and a spicy ketchup undertone. Almost abrasive in its flavor intensity. Actually, it is abrasive, in a positive sense that may represent a new use of the term. Humorous as well - a big, thick, extended middle finger for those whose sole wine concern is "seamlessness".
Day 7 - All beets now, in a positive/earthy sense. Just a hint of oxidation setting in.
$15. Yes, this is a stupid value.
Chapoutier "Terra d' Or" Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence 1998
Deep, saturated, red.
Dense, packed nose shows some heat. Black fruit reduction, hints of menthol/black olive/fig and molasses. Carignan? Can't remember what's in this. Smells loaded, like a top-notch Priorat.
Quite intense in the mouth too, again, like Priorat. Acid/alcohol-driven intensity is somewhat simplistic/rustic. Slight burnt note. But this has great depth. Old vines must be involved here.
Day 4 - Burnt/flat nose (same as yesterday). Dead in the water.
$40-45 on release.
Dense, packed nose shows some heat. Black fruit reduction, hints of menthol/black olive/fig and molasses. Carignan? Can't remember what's in this. Smells loaded, like a top-notch Priorat.
Quite intense in the mouth too, again, like Priorat. Acid/alcohol-driven intensity is somewhat simplistic/rustic. Slight burnt note. But this has great depth. Old vines must be involved here.
Day 4 - Burnt/flat nose (same as yesterday). Dead in the water.
$40-45 on release.
Chante Cigale, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2007
Straw.
Have to dig out the aromatics. Almost a beer nut quality initially (reminds me of certain Rieslings). Then we get hints of pear and almond. Other spicy stuff (quince?) too. Intriguing, needs some time. Pepper.
Then sweet, ripe, pear and lemon action in the mouth, with almond paste bringing up the rear. Quite fresh, not nearly as opulent and rich as the Clos St. Michel '06 (bottle age, vintage difference, or both?), but very nice stuff. Strong acidity/minerality drive the finish.
RFG
Day 4 - More immediate fruit on the nose now. Pear/almond/hazelnut. Nice, restrained, flesh in the mid-palate. Not as rich as the St. Michel '06, but classier, more vibrant. Could drink a lot of this.
$35
Have to dig out the aromatics. Almost a beer nut quality initially (reminds me of certain Rieslings). Then we get hints of pear and almond. Other spicy stuff (quince?) too. Intriguing, needs some time. Pepper.
Then sweet, ripe, pear and lemon action in the mouth, with almond paste bringing up the rear. Quite fresh, not nearly as opulent and rich as the Clos St. Michel '06 (bottle age, vintage difference, or both?), but very nice stuff. Strong acidity/minerality drive the finish.
RFG
Day 4 - More immediate fruit on the nose now. Pear/almond/hazelnut. Nice, restrained, flesh in the mid-palate. Not as rich as the St. Michel '06, but classier, more vibrant. Could drink a lot of this.
$35
Clos St. Michel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2006
Straw/ light yellow.
Almond, meal, spiced pear aromatics.
Deep, thick, impression in the mouth with a phenolic/mineral edge keeping everything well in bounds. Almond and ripe pineapple flavors, deep and long. Lots of mid-palate stuffing. PFG. Rich and vibrant - tough to pull off in CdP.
Day 4 - Honey, sauteed apple/pear, almond on the nose now. Similar to day 1 in the mouth, but showing the sauteed apple/pear from the nose. Still has a nice, chewy, edge that keeps it reasonably fresh.
$30
Almond, meal, spiced pear aromatics.
Deep, thick, impression in the mouth with a phenolic/mineral edge keeping everything well in bounds. Almond and ripe pineapple flavors, deep and long. Lots of mid-palate stuffing. PFG. Rich and vibrant - tough to pull off in CdP.
Day 4 - Honey, sauteed apple/pear, almond on the nose now. Similar to day 1 in the mouth, but showing the sauteed apple/pear from the nose. Still has a nice, chewy, edge that keeps it reasonably fresh.
$30
Monday, October 20, 2008
Havens "Bourriquot" Napa Valley 2001
Deep red.
Toasty French oak, toasted nut, herbs, iodine aromatics. Smells like good, refined, Bordeaux.
Deep and packed, again, in a refined manner, in the mouth. Acid edge surfaces in the mid-palate. Quite long. Herb/mineral/acid chew on the finish.
62% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot.
$35 on release
Toasty French oak, toasted nut, herbs, iodine aromatics. Smells like good, refined, Bordeaux.
Deep and packed, again, in a refined manner, in the mouth. Acid edge surfaces in the mid-palate. Quite long. Herb/mineral/acid chew on the finish.
62% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot.
$35 on release
Alion, Ribera del Duero 2001
Deep red/purple.
Earth, smoke, truffle (like Chard truffle/sulfide), almond aromatics. Subtle compared to the Condado. A late fig note.
Lighter and more refined in the mouth than the Condado. Middle-weight throughout, quite even in flow on the palate. This, too, is dominated by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Serious front-teeth constriction. No problem sitting on a bottle for another 5-7 years.
$45 on release
Earth, smoke, truffle (like Chard truffle/sulfide), almond aromatics. Subtle compared to the Condado. A late fig note.
Lighter and more refined in the mouth than the Condado. Middle-weight throughout, quite even in flow on the palate. This, too, is dominated by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Serious front-teeth constriction. No problem sitting on a bottle for another 5-7 years.
$45 on release
Condado de Haza, Ribera del Duero 2001
Deep red/purple.
Very attractive smoky oak/savory meat action on the nose. Deep.
Plush and filled-in, but simultaneously snappy with strong acidity. Earthy/mineral chew throughout. Not complex, but quite satisfying with the right stuff (grilled sausage).
$20 on release
Very attractive smoky oak/savory meat action on the nose. Deep.
Plush and filled-in, but simultaneously snappy with strong acidity. Earthy/mineral chew throughout. Not complex, but quite satisfying with the right stuff (grilled sausage).
$20 on release
Friday, October 17, 2008
Alban "Reva" Syrah 2004 (Edna Valley)
Opaque purple/red.
Toasty, smoky, bacon, hamhock, melted licorice nose with earth, pepper underneath. This showed a significant pepper/citrus character on Day 1 (10/15). Actually, still does, just takes longer to see.
Ridiculously suave/mouthcoating, achieved without effort. Packed start to finish. This has seemingly strong acidity and significant tannin, but the structure is obliterated by concentration. The front teeth finally feel some chew well into the finish.
All kinds of flavor in the mouth, incorporating all aromatic qualities.
16.7% alcohol and absolutely no sense of heat.
$80
Toasty, smoky, bacon, hamhock, melted licorice nose with earth, pepper underneath. This showed a significant pepper/citrus character on Day 1 (10/15). Actually, still does, just takes longer to see.
Ridiculously suave/mouthcoating, achieved without effort. Packed start to finish. This has seemingly strong acidity and significant tannin, but the structure is obliterated by concentration. The front teeth finally feel some chew well into the finish.
All kinds of flavor in the mouth, incorporating all aromatic qualities.
16.7% alcohol and absolutely no sense of heat.
$80
3 Rings, Shiraz Reserve, Barossa Valley 2004
Deep purple/red.
Caramel/praline, fig/date, earth - a total oozer/reduction sauce of a nose now.
Round and sweet texturally, extraordinarily so. A bit of alcohol intrudes throughout, as does a level of acidity that doesn't jibe well with the opulence here. But there's no denying the pure blackberry fruit that rides through it all. Also no denying a complete lack of flavor complexity. Extremely concentrated, with a definite saline impression.
This is actually day 3, opened on 10/15, at which time the wine was brighter, but also more dis-jointed
Nearly three years in barrel. Huge score in the Wine Advocate (98?), apparently hated by Raynolds of The International Wine Cellar.
$60, 16.5% alcohol
Caramel/praline, fig/date, earth - a total oozer/reduction sauce of a nose now.
Round and sweet texturally, extraordinarily so. A bit of alcohol intrudes throughout, as does a level of acidity that doesn't jibe well with the opulence here. But there's no denying the pure blackberry fruit that rides through it all. Also no denying a complete lack of flavor complexity. Extremely concentrated, with a definite saline impression.
This is actually day 3, opened on 10/15, at which time the wine was brighter, but also more dis-jointed
Nearly three years in barrel. Huge score in the Wine Advocate (98?), apparently hated by Raynolds of The International Wine Cellar.
$60, 16.5% alcohol
Monday, October 13, 2008
The Standish Shiraz Barossa Valley 2001
Opaque purple/red.
Smoky, toasty oak (or is it creosote?), fig, date and deep, melted, licorice nose.
Intense and dense in the mouth without any sense of roundness or textural sweetness. Packed - Pax-like. Fairly significant acid component, which gives this a dis-jointed impression.
$60
Smoky, toasty oak (or is it creosote?), fig, date and deep, melted, licorice nose.
Intense and dense in the mouth without any sense of roundness or textural sweetness. Packed - Pax-like. Fairly significant acid component, which gives this a dis-jointed impression.
$60
Calera Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard 2005 (Mt. Harlan)
Light red.
Earth/spice/underbrush, cran/strawberry and a slight stem character on the nose.
Round with some textural sweetness. Flavor is completely bound up in the mouth, with a fair amount of acid/stem tannin constriction. Better with some air, I think.
$45
Earth/spice/underbrush, cran/strawberry and a slight stem character on the nose.
Round with some textural sweetness. Flavor is completely bound up in the mouth, with a fair amount of acid/stem tannin constriction. Better with some air, I think.
$45
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Carlisle, Sonoma County, Zinfandel 2002
Red.
Sweet red cherry, earth/loam, spice and subtle oak nose.
Quite round and plush in the mouth, with a textural sweetness nicely balanced by an edge of acidity that hits the front teeth. Not complex, but easy to enjoy. A big wine, BTW (15.8% alcohol), that sommeliers will love.
Opened yesterday (all acid structure)
$25
Sweet red cherry, earth/loam, spice and subtle oak nose.
Quite round and plush in the mouth, with a textural sweetness nicely balanced by an edge of acidity that hits the front teeth. Not complex, but easy to enjoy. A big wine, BTW (15.8% alcohol), that sommeliers will love.
Opened yesterday (all acid structure)
$25
Taltarni, Shiraz, Pyrenees Victoria (Australia) 2004
Deep purple/red.
Ripe/deep/creamy blackberry, fig, menthol, spice and juniper/pepper nose. No heat.
Middle-weight and more constricted in the mouth, with relatively strong acidity clamping down on flavor expression. Pepper/juniper carries through, however, and a tight citrus character too. Slightly grainy tannin comes out of the finish. Really good, interesting action, particularly for the $$
My first Shiraz, if I remember correctly, was the 1984 from Taltarni.
$18
Ripe/deep/creamy blackberry, fig, menthol, spice and juniper/pepper nose. No heat.
Middle-weight and more constricted in the mouth, with relatively strong acidity clamping down on flavor expression. Pepper/juniper carries through, however, and a tight citrus character too. Slightly grainy tannin comes out of the finish. Really good, interesting action, particularly for the $$
My first Shiraz, if I remember correctly, was the 1984 from Taltarni.
$18
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Clos du Caillou "Les Safres" Chateauneuf du Pape 2006
Red, slight purple.
Deep, low-toned nose - clay/earth, fig, licorice?, black raspberry.
Round, sweet and mouth-filling. A bit of heat initially, then strong acidity and clay/earth character moves to the fore. Acid-driven structure coats the front teeth in "mineral' chew.
Very "modern" CdP. This has been filtered, I'd guess. No sediment of any kind.
Day 7 - No oxidation. Clay/earth front and center now, which makes me think there's a considerable Mourvedre component. Probably wrong. Still an oozer of a nose. Still loaded/packed in the mouth - red cherry jam - like you're eating some. The mineral-like acid dimension still cuts through it all. This rocks. WTF?
$65
Deep, low-toned nose - clay/earth, fig, licorice?, black raspberry.
Round, sweet and mouth-filling. A bit of heat initially, then strong acidity and clay/earth character moves to the fore. Acid-driven structure coats the front teeth in "mineral' chew.
Very "modern" CdP. This has been filtered, I'd guess. No sediment of any kind.
Day 7 - No oxidation. Clay/earth front and center now, which makes me think there's a considerable Mourvedre component. Probably wrong. Still an oozer of a nose. Still loaded/packed in the mouth - red cherry jam - like you're eating some. The mineral-like acid dimension still cuts through it all. This rocks. WTF?
$65
Felsina "Rancia" Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Red, some rust at rim.
Iron, earth, leather, hazelnut, with red rasp/cherry underneath. Effortless aromatic complexity.
Definitely a ripped middle-weight in the mouth. Taut start to finish, with flavors similar to the nose, only more muted. This needs some savory meat. Another Italian red that is a fine antidote to the creamy, fruit-stupid wines coming from all corners of the earth these days.
$35
Iron, earth, leather, hazelnut, with red rasp/cherry underneath. Effortless aromatic complexity.
Definitely a ripped middle-weight in the mouth. Taut start to finish, with flavors similar to the nose, only more muted. This needs some savory meat. Another Italian red that is a fine antidote to the creamy, fruit-stupid wines coming from all corners of the earth these days.
$35
Turley "Duarte" Zinfandel, Contra Costa County 2006
Red.
Deep, fruit and earth nose. Not complex, but sumptuous.
Nice filled-in textural sweetness, reasonably bright, with seemingly strong acidity. Another example of Turley's Zin meets Pinot style.
$25
Deep, fruit and earth nose. Not complex, but sumptuous.
Nice filled-in textural sweetness, reasonably bright, with seemingly strong acidity. Another example of Turley's Zin meets Pinot style.
$25
Monday, September 29, 2008
Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Origines" 2003
Red.
Spiced red cherry jam, light clay/earth and licorice nose.
Deep, plush cherry jam mouthfeel, buffered in the mid-palate by acid/tannin synergy that clamps down on the front teeth. Impressive volume and follow through, but actually restrained/structured for a 2003.
$40
Spiced red cherry jam, light clay/earth and licorice nose.
Deep, plush cherry jam mouthfeel, buffered in the mid-palate by acid/tannin synergy that clamps down on the front teeth. Impressive volume and follow through, but actually restrained/structured for a 2003.
$40
Abadia Retuerta "Seleccion Especial" Sardon del Duero 2000
Purple/red.
Wins style points aromatically - earth/custard, musky black fruit, Bordeaux herbs.
Plush, filled-in palate impression shows a slight superficiality in the finish. Crowd pleaser, but doesn't have the depth it needs. Still, nice stuff.
$20
Wins style points aromatically - earth/custard, musky black fruit, Bordeaux herbs.
Plush, filled-in palate impression shows a slight superficiality in the finish. Crowd pleaser, but doesn't have the depth it needs. Still, nice stuff.
$20
Palacios "Petalos" 2004 (Bierzo, Spain)
Deep red.
Smoke, savory meat, molasses, white pepper nose.
Intense earth/pepper flavors in a mid-weight package. Strongish acidity. Nice length, no fat.
$18
Smoke, savory meat, molasses, white pepper nose.
Intense earth/pepper flavors in a mid-weight package. Strongish acidity. Nice length, no fat.
$18
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Finca Sandoval, Manchuela (Spain) 2004
Purple/red.
Saucy, grilled (balsamic) meat, grilled herbs, light coconut and very deep black raspberry nose.
Very intense in the mouth, slightly abrasive, with strong acid-driven tannin coating the front teeth. Nice flesh, and packed, though. This needs lamb or 6-8 years of cellaring.
Opened yesterday. 83% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 8% Bobal
Day 2 - Showing a very cool juniper/pepper aromatic note. Easing up a bit in the mouth. This is killer.
$45
Saucy, grilled (balsamic) meat, grilled herbs, light coconut and very deep black raspberry nose.
Very intense in the mouth, slightly abrasive, with strong acid-driven tannin coating the front teeth. Nice flesh, and packed, though. This needs lamb or 6-8 years of cellaring.
Opened yesterday. 83% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 8% Bobal
Day 2 - Showing a very cool juniper/pepper aromatic note. Easing up a bit in the mouth. This is killer.
$45
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Kaesler "Avignon" Barossa Valley 2004
Red.
Raspberry, fig, licorice and nut aromas.
Round, sweet and sumptuous in the mouth with a saline/acid edge firming the side teeth. Structure overtakes the flavors a bit from the mid-palate on. Much better tomorrow I'd guess. All red raspberry on the finish.
50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre 15.5 % alcohol listed
$20
Raspberry, fig, licorice and nut aromas.
Round, sweet and sumptuous in the mouth with a saline/acid edge firming the side teeth. Structure overtakes the flavors a bit from the mid-palate on. Much better tomorrow I'd guess. All red raspberry on the finish.
50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre 15.5 % alcohol listed
$20
Cantina del Taburno "Fidelis" Aglianico del Taburno 2001
Deep red.
Deep, smoke/pumice aromatics, with toasted nut, garrigue and a black fruit character (dried fig?) I can't define.
Round and gentle in the mouth, particularly for Aglianico. Nice mid-palate flesh. Not incredibly concentrated, but very nicely put together, individual and extremely tasty. Finishes reasonably long with a light tannic chew. Aromatic notes mirrored in the mouth.
$18, stupid deal.
Deep, smoke/pumice aromatics, with toasted nut, garrigue and a black fruit character (dried fig?) I can't define.
Round and gentle in the mouth, particularly for Aglianico. Nice mid-palate flesh. Not incredibly concentrated, but very nicely put together, individual and extremely tasty. Finishes reasonably long with a light tannic chew. Aromatic notes mirrored in the mouth.
$18, stupid deal.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Saxum "Broken Stones" Syrah, Paso Robles 2002
Purple/red.
Licorice, nutty oak, dried fig and deep black fruit nose.
Sweet and round in the mouth, with a mineral/acid edge keeping everything in bounds. There's effectively no complexity in the mouth, just a textural depth that is impressive.. Very tasty and deep, but decidedly one-dimensional.
Day 2 - Huge raspberry coulis aromatic action - sumptuous. This reminds me of Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache or a monster, refined Priorat. Deep, sweet and "minerally". Textural, layered, complexity. Major bonefest.
$35 on release
Licorice, nutty oak, dried fig and deep black fruit nose.
Sweet and round in the mouth, with a mineral/acid edge keeping everything in bounds. There's effectively no complexity in the mouth, just a textural depth that is impressive.. Very tasty and deep, but decidedly one-dimensional.
Day 2 - Huge raspberry coulis aromatic action - sumptuous. This reminds me of Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache or a monster, refined Priorat. Deep, sweet and "minerally". Textural, layered, complexity. Major bonefest.
$35 on release
Pago del Ama, Syrah, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2001
Deep red.
Smoke, bacon, earth, red and black fruit nose. Not at all opulent.
Round impression, but kept taut by reasonably strong acidity. Linear through the mid-palate and finish, but has good flavor depth. These guys were at HdR this year - restauranteurs I think. This could use some real (dead animal) food.
$45
Smoke, bacon, earth, red and black fruit nose. Not at all opulent.
Round impression, but kept taut by reasonably strong acidity. Linear through the mid-palate and finish, but has good flavor depth. These guys were at HdR this year - restauranteurs I think. This could use some real (dead animal) food.
$45
Aubert, Chardonnay, Ritchie Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2006
Straw. Slight haze.
Refined, pure nose. Caramel, light sulphide, pear.
Sweet textural impression gradually firmed up by acid/mineral/stone structure. Stone/chalk/caramel are the primary flavors today. Long, subtle, fine.
Courtesy of Todd B.
$90
Refined, pure nose. Caramel, light sulphide, pear.
Sweet textural impression gradually firmed up by acid/mineral/stone structure. Stone/chalk/caramel are the primary flavors today. Long, subtle, fine.
Courtesy of Todd B.
$90
Friday, September 19, 2008
P. Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" Chateauneuf du Pape 1999
Deep red.
Spice, garrigue, dried herbs, grilled meat, iron/blood, and cherry jam nose.
Intense and non-fat in the mouth. Spicy cherry jam, a bit of tomato and herb flavors. Linear in a way that brings Barolo to mind. A bit of flesh appears with air. Acid/tannin synergy coats the side teeth.
Opened yesterday. Not appealing at all then, with Brett character dominating. Much better today.
$55 on release
Spice, garrigue, dried herbs, grilled meat, iron/blood, and cherry jam nose.
Intense and non-fat in the mouth. Spicy cherry jam, a bit of tomato and herb flavors. Linear in a way that brings Barolo to mind. A bit of flesh appears with air. Acid/tannin synergy coats the side teeth.
Opened yesterday. Not appealing at all then, with Brett character dominating. Much better today.
$55 on release
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2004 Bandol
Purple/red.
Woodsy/earthy nose. Iron and a bit of game too. Black fruit coulis and licorice underneath.
Round and dense in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy slowing constricting the sides of the tongue. A mouthful of earth and spice at the moment. Not as wild in the mouth as it is on the nose. Constriction/chew now reaching the front teeth and gums.
Opened yesterday.
$25
Woodsy/earthy nose. Iron and a bit of game too. Black fruit coulis and licorice underneath.
Round and dense in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy slowing constricting the sides of the tongue. A mouthful of earth and spice at the moment. Not as wild in the mouth as it is on the nose. Constriction/chew now reaching the front teeth and gums.
Opened yesterday.
$25
Guigal, Lieu-Dit St. Joseph, Blanc 2006
Straw, slight copper.
Reticent nose - almond extract and light pepper. Maybe white peach too.
Round, but well-delineated, with moderate acidity. There's a very fine suggestion of mineral. In fact, this seems light-weight compared to some previous vintages. But it has Tanzer's "sneaky" flavor length. Gets deeper as it warms in the glass. Caramel and marzipan finish. Long and fine.
Opened yesterday
$50. All Marsanne, I think.
Reticent nose - almond extract and light pepper. Maybe white peach too.
Round, but well-delineated, with moderate acidity. There's a very fine suggestion of mineral. In fact, this seems light-weight compared to some previous vintages. But it has Tanzer's "sneaky" flavor length. Gets deeper as it warms in the glass. Caramel and marzipan finish. Long and fine.
Opened yesterday
$50. All Marsanne, I think.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Mogador 2005 Priorat (Spain)
Purple/red.
Vivid black and blueberry coulis, deep earth, oak nut - pure and stupidly deep aromatics. Never had a Mogador like this.
Deep, sweet black raspberry entry, with other aromatic notes providing flavor shavings. "Mineral" struture shuts down front and side teeth. Time will tell ... but this has all the right stuff.
Day 4 - Blueberry pastry, brown sugar aromatics. Still primary rasp/blueberry action in the mouth, with earth and oak spice in the background. Huge teethcoating "minerality" on the finish. Need a time machine - what will this be like in 10 years? Will it actually be "better"?
$75
Vivid black and blueberry coulis, deep earth, oak nut - pure and stupidly deep aromatics. Never had a Mogador like this.
Deep, sweet black raspberry entry, with other aromatic notes providing flavor shavings. "Mineral" struture shuts down front and side teeth. Time will tell ... but this has all the right stuff.
Day 4 - Blueberry pastry, brown sugar aromatics. Still primary rasp/blueberry action in the mouth, with earth and oak spice in the background. Huge teethcoating "minerality" on the finish. Need a time machine - what will this be like in 10 years? Will it actually be "better"?
$75
Pax "Cuvee Christine" Syrah, Sonoma County 2004
Opaque purple.
Extremely deep, low-toned nose - dried fig, slow-roasted meat, melted licorice, menthol, oak spice (?).
In my mind these wines routinely mock the ridiculous simplicity of most Syrah/Shiraz.
Nose mirrored in the mouth - deep, low-toned, with structural tannin/stem(?) chew dominating. Acidity is a mirage. This needs time, though. Quite constricted in the finish.
Day 4 - Melted licorice oozing out of the glass. Still constricted, but licorice and dried fig sauce drive through. Need to see this again in 4-5 years.
$50
Extremely deep, low-toned nose - dried fig, slow-roasted meat, melted licorice, menthol, oak spice (?).
In my mind these wines routinely mock the ridiculous simplicity of most Syrah/Shiraz.
Nose mirrored in the mouth - deep, low-toned, with structural tannin/stem(?) chew dominating. Acidity is a mirage. This needs time, though. Quite constricted in the finish.
Day 4 - Melted licorice oozing out of the glass. Still constricted, but licorice and dried fig sauce drive through. Need to see this again in 4-5 years.
$50
Pesquera, Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 2004
Purple/red.
Deep, killer nose - black pudding fruit, earth, integrated oak spice/toast, licorice and savory meat.
Round, with a suggestion of textural sweetness, but simultaneously taut. Not creamy, with acid/tannin attacking the side teeth. Black fruit depth manages to work through the structure. Impressive, age-worthy action. Purely rendered.
Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Deep, packed and structured. Killer action.
$45
Deep, killer nose - black pudding fruit, earth, integrated oak spice/toast, licorice and savory meat.
Round, with a suggestion of textural sweetness, but simultaneously taut. Not creamy, with acid/tannin attacking the side teeth. Black fruit depth manages to work through the structure. Impressive, age-worthy action. Purely rendered.
Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Deep, packed and structured. Killer action.
$45
Zind Humbrecht, Pinot Gris, Clos Windsbuhl 2003
Straw/light copper.
Nondescript jellied white fruit and spice nose.
Immense textural sweetness in the mouth, quickly put in its place by (seemingly) firm acidity. Not very interesting in the mouth, but does have a "mineral" edge that will please purists. Pure, in its own way, but lacks any real interest. This could use some botrytis.
16% alcohol, Indice 1 (dry)
$50 Opened yesterday.
Nondescript jellied white fruit and spice nose.
Immense textural sweetness in the mouth, quickly put in its place by (seemingly) firm acidity. Not very interesting in the mouth, but does have a "mineral" edge that will please purists. Pure, in its own way, but lacks any real interest. This could use some botrytis.
16% alcohol, Indice 1 (dry)
$50 Opened yesterday.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
St. innocent, Shea Vyd., Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006
Light red.
Deeper black fruit aromas, even a suggestion of licorice. Maple and oak toast nuances.
Round, deep and sweet in the mouth, with black raspberry confection balanced nicely by strong acidity and light tannin that, again, coat the front teeth. Hard not to like this. This too will be better with several years in the cellar.
$45
Deeper black fruit aromas, even a suggestion of licorice. Maple and oak toast nuances.
Round, deep and sweet in the mouth, with black raspberry confection balanced nicely by strong acidity and light tannin that, again, coat the front teeth. Hard not to like this. This too will be better with several years in the cellar.
$45
St. Innocent, Seven Springs Vyd., Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006
Light red.
Suave oak spice/toast, red cherry, and slow-roasted meat aromas.
Round and slightly sweet textural impression, with acidity driving fine tannin onto the front teeth. Nice red fruit throughout, with nothing out of place. Could use a few years in the bottle.
Very tasty, and will get better.
$45
Suave oak spice/toast, red cherry, and slow-roasted meat aromas.
Round and slightly sweet textural impression, with acidity driving fine tannin onto the front teeth. Nice red fruit throughout, with nothing out of place. Could use a few years in the bottle.
Very tasty, and will get better.
$45
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
La Rioja Alta, Gran Reserva "904", Rioja 1995
Red.
Subtle, refined nose. Macaroon, maple-glazed ham, pepper. You need to sit with this.
Lean and acid-driven in the mouth. As might be expected, completely different in nature than most Spanish wines you encounter these days. Redcurrant, coconut, pepper and mineral chew. Absolutely no fat or textural give. I must admit, I'm having a hard time enjoying this, but it seems obvious that some good food (ham/fatty pork?) would work wonders here.
Archetypical food wine.
$60
Subtle, refined nose. Macaroon, maple-glazed ham, pepper. You need to sit with this.
Lean and acid-driven in the mouth. As might be expected, completely different in nature than most Spanish wines you encounter these days. Redcurrant, coconut, pepper and mineral chew. Absolutely no fat or textural give. I must admit, I'm having a hard time enjoying this, but it seems obvious that some good food (ham/fatty pork?) would work wonders here.
Archetypical food wine.
$60
Monday, September 8, 2008
Mas Mallola, Priorat 2005
Deep red.
Intense shoe polish, oak spice/nut/sulfide and deep black fruit nose.
Deep and sweet textural impression, immediately tempered by strong, cheek-coating acidity and moderate tannin. Another wine where structure and flavor ride on two different tracks. Weaving in and out. Taut.
I'd guess this is dominated by Carignan.
Day 3 - Mellow nose now - spice, shoe polish, pepper and black fruit. Acidity hits later and softer. Deep, sweet black and red fruit impression. "Minerally" finish.
Very good stuff.
$40
Intense shoe polish, oak spice/nut/sulfide and deep black fruit nose.
Deep and sweet textural impression, immediately tempered by strong, cheek-coating acidity and moderate tannin. Another wine where structure and flavor ride on two different tracks. Weaving in and out. Taut.
I'd guess this is dominated by Carignan.
Day 3 - Mellow nose now - spice, shoe polish, pepper and black fruit. Acidity hits later and softer. Deep, sweet black and red fruit impression. "Minerally" finish.
Very good stuff.
$40
Les Cailloux, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Light red.
Toasted hazelnut, garrigue and cherry jam aromas. Pepper and meat nuances.
Round, plush and mouth-filling, with acid driven (stem?) tannin providing fairly stiff structural support. Cherry jam and nut flavors manage to find their way through to the finish. Smoke and prune. Disjointed, I'm sorry to say. Everyone loves L.C., and I thought I did, but I've had problems with several vintages lately.
Day 3 - Nose is great, but I'm still getting weirdness I think is from stem inclusion. Quite spicy, but also has a flattened (not fresh) fruit quality. This is hard to enjoy.
$35
Toasted hazelnut, garrigue and cherry jam aromas. Pepper and meat nuances.
Round, plush and mouth-filling, with acid driven (stem?) tannin providing fairly stiff structural support. Cherry jam and nut flavors manage to find their way through to the finish. Smoke and prune. Disjointed, I'm sorry to say. Everyone loves L.C., and I thought I did, but I've had problems with several vintages lately.
Day 3 - Nose is great, but I'm still getting weirdness I think is from stem inclusion. Quite spicy, but also has a flattened (not fresh) fruit quality. This is hard to enjoy.
$35
Martinsancho, Verdejo, Rueda (Spain) 2007
Straw/yellow.
Slightly pungent nose - similar to NZ SB - but here we get more ripe fruit and less herb action. Grapefruit zest, nectarine/ peach aromas.
Lean entry brightened by a medley of fruit flavors mirroring nose. "Mineral" feel cuts through it all. Long, chewy and bright, with no fat whatsoever.
$22
Slightly pungent nose - similar to NZ SB - but here we get more ripe fruit and less herb action. Grapefruit zest, nectarine/ peach aromas.
Lean entry brightened by a medley of fruit flavors mirroring nose. "Mineral" feel cuts through it all. Long, chewy and bright, with no fat whatsoever.
$22
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Marcassin Marcassin Vyd Chardonnay 1999 (Sonoma Coast)
Light yellow.
Lemon oil, sulphide/truffle, almond extract, caramel on the nose.
Deep, yet restrained in the mouth. Contradictory? Absolutely. Huge depth with an overlay of mineral/phenolic/acid structure.
Monster mid-palate flesh, creme brulee/caramel flavors throughout. Incredibly long and chewy. Absolutely killer wine.
$95
Lemon oil, sulphide/truffle, almond extract, caramel on the nose.
Deep, yet restrained in the mouth. Contradictory? Absolutely. Huge depth with an overlay of mineral/phenolic/acid structure.
Monster mid-palate flesh, creme brulee/caramel flavors throughout. Incredibly long and chewy. Absolutely killer wine.
$95
Guigal, Hermitage Blanc 1999
Gold/slight copper.
A bit odd on the nose - which might be expected - spun/caramelized sugar, candied pineapple, aldehydes, almond extract nuance.
Deep, extremely, in the mouth. Mineral/phenolic edge, subtle, keeps things lively. Very ripe pineapple flavor runs the distance.
$50
A bit odd on the nose - which might be expected - spun/caramelized sugar, candied pineapple, aldehydes, almond extract nuance.
Deep, extremely, in the mouth. Mineral/phenolic edge, subtle, keeps things lively. Very ripe pineapple flavor runs the distance.
$50
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Pax Alder Springs Vyd. Syrah 2006 (Mendocino County)
Saturated red/purple.
Fresh aromas - black raspberry/blackberry coulis, earth, (oak?) spice. Deep, but nice clarity too. Lisa says Canadian bacon and wintergreen mint. I'd go there too.
Ditto in the mouth, with stronger acidity than the '03 and not nearly as broad. Very good concentration, but I don't see this matching the '03 on the palate, ever. Nevertheless, this is very good action, and likely to be a favorite with N.Rhone lovers who don't enjoy "New World" opulence.
Day 3 - Still has great clarity and interest on the nose. Begins with some real flesh in the mouth, but quickly shuts down the front of the mouth with acid/stem chew synergy. Who knows, maybe this just needs 10-15 more years?
$65
Fresh aromas - black raspberry/blackberry coulis, earth, (oak?) spice. Deep, but nice clarity too. Lisa says Canadian bacon and wintergreen mint. I'd go there too.
Ditto in the mouth, with stronger acidity than the '03 and not nearly as broad. Very good concentration, but I don't see this matching the '03 on the palate, ever. Nevertheless, this is very good action, and likely to be a favorite with N.Rhone lovers who don't enjoy "New World" opulence.
Day 3 - Still has great clarity and interest on the nose. Begins with some real flesh in the mouth, but quickly shuts down the front of the mouth with acid/stem chew synergy. Who knows, maybe this just needs 10-15 more years?
$65
Pax Alder Springs Vyd. Syrah 2003 (Mendocino County)
Saturated purple/red.
Deep, melted licorice, menthol, dried fig aromas. Like smelling a reduction sauce in the pan - not fresh, but not cooked - with some lift.
Huge, mouth-coating impression. A very slight suggestion of alcohol, but the density, breadth and expressiveness in the mouth blows by it. Typical Pax grainy texture, with low acidity. The nose shows in the flavors that run the length of the court. I can see this adding nuance with even more bottle time, unlike the Mitolo.
This rocks, distinctive and loaded.
Day 3 - Low-toned, oozer of a nose - menthol/licorice/fig reduction. Almost identical in the mouth, massive, but shows some reasonable complexity. In complete contrast to the Mitolo. Great chewy, expressive, length.
16.3% alcohol
$60
Deep, melted licorice, menthol, dried fig aromas. Like smelling a reduction sauce in the pan - not fresh, but not cooked - with some lift.
Huge, mouth-coating impression. A very slight suggestion of alcohol, but the density, breadth and expressiveness in the mouth blows by it. Typical Pax grainy texture, with low acidity. The nose shows in the flavors that run the length of the court. I can see this adding nuance with even more bottle time, unlike the Mitolo.
This rocks, distinctive and loaded.
Day 3 - Low-toned, oozer of a nose - menthol/licorice/fig reduction. Almost identical in the mouth, massive, but shows some reasonable complexity. In complete contrast to the Mitolo. Great chewy, expressive, length.
16.3% alcohol
$60
Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2002
Red/purple.
Smoke/grilled meat, balsamic action, hazelnut and black fruit on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid-edge that keeps things taut. Very good, but not great, density. Nice flavor flow through slightly constricted mid-palate. It seems obvious that 2002 wasn't among the best recent vintages for most of Spain, but the wines are far better than I expected. This is no exception.
Day 3 - Nose now simpler, deeper. Deep smoke/char and savory meat in the mouth. I'd drink this over the next 2-3 years.
$45
Smoke/grilled meat, balsamic action, hazelnut and black fruit on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid-edge that keeps things taut. Very good, but not great, density. Nice flavor flow through slightly constricted mid-palate. It seems obvious that 2002 wasn't among the best recent vintages for most of Spain, but the wines are far better than I expected. This is no exception.
Day 3 - Nose now simpler, deeper. Deep smoke/char and savory meat in the mouth. I'd drink this over the next 2-3 years.
$45
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2004
Saturated purple/red.
Extremely dense nose - with a powdered cocoa element that reminds me of the '04 Amon-Ra Godolphin. A huge, aromatic, mass. Currently undifferentiated.
Huge breadth and depth in the mouth also, with a moderate saline/acid edge. Reasonably refined, but this is a bulk-based effort. Impressive, but what the hell are you going to do with it? I seriously doubt that any interesting complexity will develop with more bottle time.
Day 4 - Deep, huge and refined. No complexity, but not hard to enjoy.
$65
Extremely dense nose - with a powdered cocoa element that reminds me of the '04 Amon-Ra Godolphin. A huge, aromatic, mass. Currently undifferentiated.
Huge breadth and depth in the mouth also, with a moderate saline/acid edge. Reasonably refined, but this is a bulk-based effort. Impressive, but what the hell are you going to do with it? I seriously doubt that any interesting complexity will develop with more bottle time.
Day 4 - Deep, huge and refined. No complexity, but not hard to enjoy.
$65
Waterford "Kevin Arnold" Shiraz, Stellenbosch 2002
Deep red.
Smoky, meaty, slightly feral nose, but not crazy. Hazelnut paste and a medicinal note too. Far better than it sounds.
Deep, round entry, with a gamy, saline edge. Smoked meat permeates the mouth, with unobtrusive tannin framing everything.
If there's fruit here, I don't see it. Don't really miss it, either.
Not great, but this has personality ...
$30
Smoky, meaty, slightly feral nose, but not crazy. Hazelnut paste and a medicinal note too. Far better than it sounds.
Deep, round entry, with a gamy, saline edge. Smoked meat permeates the mouth, with unobtrusive tannin framing everything.
If there's fruit here, I don't see it. Don't really miss it, either.
Not great, but this has personality ...
$30
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Domane Wachau, Achleiten, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd 2005
Straw.
Ripe pear, spice, slight pepper nose. A bit bodacious.
Opens with a suggestion of sweetness and perfectly ripened pear in the mouth. Quite deep, but reined in by chewy mineral/acid synergy. Not complex, but gets major points for ripe fruit and deliciousness.
$25
Ripe pear, spice, slight pepper nose. A bit bodacious.
Opens with a suggestion of sweetness and perfectly ripened pear in the mouth. Quite deep, but reined in by chewy mineral/acid synergy. Not complex, but gets major points for ripe fruit and deliciousness.
$25
Turley, Petite Sirah, Hayne Vyd., Napa Valley 1997
Purple.
Low-toned oak spice, meat/toasted nut aromas.
Round with a slight textural sweetness. Deep and chewy, but one-dimensional at the present.
$50 on release
Low-toned oak spice, meat/toasted nut aromas.
Round with a slight textural sweetness. Deep and chewy, but one-dimensional at the present.
$50 on release
Caprai "25" Sangrantino di Montefalco 1997
Deep red.
Great oak-influenced nose. Maple syrup, sausage, deep earth.
Round, dense/intense. There's serious acid-driven chew here. No fat whatsoever. Nor any sense of complexity, yet.
$80 on release
Great oak-influenced nose. Maple syrup, sausage, deep earth.
Round, dense/intense. There's serious acid-driven chew here. No fat whatsoever. Nor any sense of complexity, yet.
$80 on release
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Clos dels Llops "Manyetes" Priorat 2000
Deep red.
Overtly toasty nose, a bit off-putting, can't tell if it's all oak or oak and sulfide synergy. Deep black fruit buried.
Deep black fruit sweetness in the mouth, framed by toasty oak. Great density, with moderate tannin chew. This was hard as a rock a few years ago.
Day 3 - Similar nose. Deep, creamy black fruit. Again, similar to day 1. Great depth, just lacks complexity.
Mostly Carignan, made by Barbier (Mogador).
$45
Overtly toasty nose, a bit off-putting, can't tell if it's all oak or oak and sulfide synergy. Deep black fruit buried.
Deep black fruit sweetness in the mouth, framed by toasty oak. Great density, with moderate tannin chew. This was hard as a rock a few years ago.
Day 3 - Similar nose. Deep, creamy black fruit. Again, similar to day 1. Great depth, just lacks complexity.
Mostly Carignan, made by Barbier (Mogador).
$45
Les Cailloux, Chateauneuf du Pape 1998
Rust.
Garrigue, iron, grapefruit, earth, black tea, red cherry aromatics.
Slightly dull flavors of garrigue, iron, cooked cherry. Serious structure still, with (stem?) chew hitting the front teeth hard.
I think this will freshen up with air.
Day 3 - Hazelnut now an aromatic addition. Not fresher, but deeper, in the mouth, with stewed tomato making an appearance. I can't say this is particularly pleasant, though the nose is PFG.
$25 on release
Garrigue, iron, grapefruit, earth, black tea, red cherry aromatics.
Slightly dull flavors of garrigue, iron, cooked cherry. Serious structure still, with (stem?) chew hitting the front teeth hard.
I think this will freshen up with air.
Day 3 - Hazelnut now an aromatic addition. Not fresher, but deeper, in the mouth, with stewed tomato making an appearance. I can't say this is particularly pleasant, though the nose is PFG.
$25 on release
Palacios "Corullon" 2000 (Bierzo, Spain)
Red/purple.
Deep, expressive, meaty/savory/balsamic nose. Earth/potato undertone.
Round, with an immediate acid/"mineral" cut that reminds me of Cote Rotie. "Sour", in a mouth-watering way. Not showing any savory character in the mouth. Earth/oak toast/mineral only. Mineral/acid/tannin chew covers the front teeth. Late note of red cherry. This needs air.
Day 3 - Showing a bit more oak spice on the nose, as well as a deep cherry aspect that shows up in the mouth also. Lean and deep. Finely rendered stuff, with slightly chewy finishing tannin.
$55
Deep, expressive, meaty/savory/balsamic nose. Earth/potato undertone.
Round, with an immediate acid/"mineral" cut that reminds me of Cote Rotie. "Sour", in a mouth-watering way. Not showing any savory character in the mouth. Earth/oak toast/mineral only. Mineral/acid/tannin chew covers the front teeth. Late note of red cherry. This needs air.
Day 3 - Showing a bit more oak spice on the nose, as well as a deep cherry aspect that shows up in the mouth also. Lean and deep. Finely rendered stuff, with slightly chewy finishing tannin.
$55
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Muga, Reserva, Rioja 2001
Red.
Grilled meat, slight coconut, earth, custard/pudding fruit. Great, integrated, complex nose.
Acid-driven, also, in the mouth. Citrus zest chew, earth flavors. Bound up on the finish. Funny, I never thought that Rioja and Barbaresco would be remotely similar. These two are, structurally, in the mouth.
Day 3 - Totally savory nose - grilled meat, custard/pudding fruit, barrel spices. Coconut now folded into the custard theme.
No way this could be mistaken, in any way, with Barbaresco now. Quite pliant in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy much lighter and later.
$22
Grilled meat, slight coconut, earth, custard/pudding fruit. Great, integrated, complex nose.
Acid-driven, also, in the mouth. Citrus zest chew, earth flavors. Bound up on the finish. Funny, I never thought that Rioja and Barbaresco would be remotely similar. These two are, structurally, in the mouth.
Day 3 - Totally savory nose - grilled meat, custard/pudding fruit, barrel spices. Coconut now folded into the custard theme.
No way this could be mistaken, in any way, with Barbaresco now. Quite pliant in the mouth, with acid/tannin synergy much lighter and later.
$22
Paitin, Sori Paitin, Barbaresco 2001
Deep red.
Sexy almond extract, cherry jam, earth/truffle nose.
Acid-driven palate - red cherry jam, mineral. Huge acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate obliterates everything except minerality. But this has all the stuff it needs, except bottle age.
Day 3 - Charcoal, truffle, almond extract and cherry jam nose. This is showing a major load of mid-palate flesh for any Nebbiolo-based wine. Which isn't to say that it has lost its structure. Huge acid/tannin synergy clamps down, only much later.
I love these guys. The price is stupid.
$40
Sexy almond extract, cherry jam, earth/truffle nose.
Acid-driven palate - red cherry jam, mineral. Huge acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate obliterates everything except minerality. But this has all the stuff it needs, except bottle age.
Day 3 - Charcoal, truffle, almond extract and cherry jam nose. This is showing a major load of mid-palate flesh for any Nebbiolo-based wine. Which isn't to say that it has lost its structure. Huge acid/tannin synergy clamps down, only much later.
I love these guys. The price is stupid.
$40
Zind Humbrecht, Riesling, Rangen "Clos St. Urbain" 2002
Copper/gold.
Roasted botrytis nose - grapefruit marmalade. Huge depth.
Huge in the mouth - quite sweet, but there's a massive amount of extract/flavor depth/chew here. Flavors? Toasted marshmallow, wildly intense grapefruit marmalade and a roasted/earthy botrytis finish. I'd love to know what the volatile acidity is. Acid/sugar smackdown goes on for minutes.
Day 3 - No real change. Loaded, and probably too much for many. But for all the richness, there is a corresponding cut/edge.
15% alcohol, Indice 3 (moderate residual sugar)
$30 375mL
Roasted botrytis nose - grapefruit marmalade. Huge depth.
Huge in the mouth - quite sweet, but there's a massive amount of extract/flavor depth/chew here. Flavors? Toasted marshmallow, wildly intense grapefruit marmalade and a roasted/earthy botrytis finish. I'd love to know what the volatile acidity is. Acid/sugar smackdown goes on for minutes.
Day 3 - No real change. Loaded, and probably too much for many. But for all the richness, there is a corresponding cut/edge.
15% alcohol, Indice 3 (moderate residual sugar)
$30 375mL
Copain, Roussanne, James Berry Vyd. 2004
Straw/yellow.
Almond extract, cashew, with hints of creamed corn, citrus and peach on the nose. Lichee candy and floral action too.
Intense, jellied fruit and mineral entry, with very good mid-palate flesh. Any impression of sweetness tamped down by mineral/phenolic chew. Quite different than the 2005, but killer in its own, structured, way.
$35
Almond extract, cashew, with hints of creamed corn, citrus and peach on the nose. Lichee candy and floral action too.
Intense, jellied fruit and mineral entry, with very good mid-palate flesh. Any impression of sweetness tamped down by mineral/phenolic chew. Quite different than the 2005, but killer in its own, structured, way.
$35
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Marcassin "Zio Tony Ranch" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2003
Light yellow.
Ripe lime aromas, with slight sulfide and caramel nuances. Pristine.
More typical caramel Marcassin entry, but then quite nervy. Taut lime, but nice lime flesh sweetness. Contradictory? Absolutely. Totally killer - Chablis loaded to the hilt/kilt. Monster mineral chew/finish. Atypical precision for Marcassin, allied with the usual flamboyant density. Lime/rocks on your front teeth for minutes. Unquestionably one of the greatest white wines I've had in years.
Absolutely FK.
Day 2- More typical caramel/sulfide nose. Lime underneath. In the mouth, lime and caramel/sulfide battle for dominance. Great freshness, cut. Looking at yesterday's comments, I thought I might have been toasted. Not. This just hammers the salivary glands. A vinous "come to Jesus" moment.
$85
Ripe lime aromas, with slight sulfide and caramel nuances. Pristine.
More typical caramel Marcassin entry, but then quite nervy. Taut lime, but nice lime flesh sweetness. Contradictory? Absolutely. Totally killer - Chablis loaded to the hilt/kilt. Monster mineral chew/finish. Atypical precision for Marcassin, allied with the usual flamboyant density. Lime/rocks on your front teeth for minutes. Unquestionably one of the greatest white wines I've had in years.
Absolutely FK.
Day 2- More typical caramel/sulfide nose. Lime underneath. In the mouth, lime and caramel/sulfide battle for dominance. Great freshness, cut. Looking at yesterday's comments, I thought I might have been toasted. Not. This just hammers the salivary glands. A vinous "come to Jesus" moment.
$85
Friday, August 15, 2008
Flor de Pingus, Ribera del Duero 2003
Purple/red.
Great barrel (Darnajou?) notes - toasted hazelnut, spice - along with pepper, grilled meat, and, like the Pesquera, vague black fruit aromas.
Unlike the Pesquera, quite refined in the mouth. But also seriously structured, here more acid influenced, constricted. Very interesting contrast in style. This needs years in the bottle. Pesquera more approachable at this point. Strange, but true.
Day 3 - This is showing some oxidative aromatic action. Good depth in the mouth, but very one-dimensional at the moment. Acid/tannin synergy still clamps down in the finish.
$45
Great barrel (Darnajou?) notes - toasted hazelnut, spice - along with pepper, grilled meat, and, like the Pesquera, vague black fruit aromas.
Unlike the Pesquera, quite refined in the mouth. But also seriously structured, here more acid influenced, constricted. Very interesting contrast in style. This needs years in the bottle. Pesquera more approachable at this point. Strange, but true.
Day 3 - This is showing some oxidative aromatic action. Good depth in the mouth, but very one-dimensional at the moment. Acid/tannin synergy still clamps down in the finish.
$45
Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2003
Purple/red.
Leesy/slightly cheesy nose - pudding fruit (raisins, figs), oak spice. Deep, and far better than I describe.
Deep and quite plush, with immediate pudding fruit flavors grabbing attention. Serious mid-palate flesh, especially for the vintage. Seriously structured as well. I have little doubt that this will be better in 3-5 years and drink well for 5 after that.
Monasterio is almost always one of my favorite RdDs
Day 3 - Cream cheese/blueberry pastry on the nose. Difficult to articulate on the palate, but the general impression is one of integration and depth. I'd have no problem sitting on this for several years. Structure coats the front teeth, but earth/pudding fruit flavors ride through it.
Day 7 - Still smells creamy and deep. In the mouth, this is clearly different from the Pesquera, showing lees-enriched mid-palate. Tangy and long.
Flor de Pingus and this wine are made by Peter Sisseck
$40
Leesy/slightly cheesy nose - pudding fruit (raisins, figs), oak spice. Deep, and far better than I describe.
Deep and quite plush, with immediate pudding fruit flavors grabbing attention. Serious mid-palate flesh, especially for the vintage. Seriously structured as well. I have little doubt that this will be better in 3-5 years and drink well for 5 after that.
Monasterio is almost always one of my favorite RdDs
Day 3 - Cream cheese/blueberry pastry on the nose. Difficult to articulate on the palate, but the general impression is one of integration and depth. I'd have no problem sitting on this for several years. Structure coats the front teeth, but earth/pudding fruit flavors ride through it.
Day 7 - Still smells creamy and deep. In the mouth, this is clearly different from the Pesquera, showing lees-enriched mid-palate. Tangy and long.
Flor de Pingus and this wine are made by Peter Sisseck
$40
Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2003
Deep red/purple.
Deep, savory nose - maple, grilled meat, earth, vague black fruit and a medicinal nuance.
Sweet and grainy/saline simultaneously in the mouth. Very good mid-palate flesh wards off significant, side teeth-coating tannin. Nice flavor follow through. Long and chewy.
VGS.
Day 3 - Even more savory now on the nose. Maple syrup and meat. Really expressive in the mouth, with tannin definitely on the back burner. Very satisfying stuff.
Day 7 - Dregs. Still drinking very well. No sign of oxidation.
$28
Deep, savory nose - maple, grilled meat, earth, vague black fruit and a medicinal nuance.
Sweet and grainy/saline simultaneously in the mouth. Very good mid-palate flesh wards off significant, side teeth-coating tannin. Nice flavor follow through. Long and chewy.
VGS.
Day 3 - Even more savory now on the nose. Maple syrup and meat. Really expressive in the mouth, with tannin definitely on the back burner. Very satisfying stuff.
Day 7 - Dregs. Still drinking very well. No sign of oxidation.
$28
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Zind Humbrecht, Hengst, Gewurtztraminer 2000
Gold/copper.
Deep orange marmalade, lichee candy and a slight roasted botrytis note on the nose.
Deep and seemingly quite sweet in the mouth. A medley of fruit jams/marmalades - pear, orange, grapefruit - with a spicy/roasted botrytis element that lifts the flavors and cuts through the sweetness. Lightly chewy finish, remarkable, given the density and richness here. Huge wine (16% alcohol) that works extremely well.
$65
Deep orange marmalade, lichee candy and a slight roasted botrytis note on the nose.
Deep and seemingly quite sweet in the mouth. A medley of fruit jams/marmalades - pear, orange, grapefruit - with a spicy/roasted botrytis element that lifts the flavors and cuts through the sweetness. Lightly chewy finish, remarkable, given the density and richness here. Huge wine (16% alcohol) that works extremely well.
$65
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Copain, Syrah, Harrison Clarke, Santa Ynez Valley 2006
Purple/red.
Integrated, discreet nose. Brown sugar, black/blue fruit, slight herbs.
Plush entry immediately challenged by strong acidity. Nice mid-palate flesh/depth. Funny, though, there's a serious thrill/interest problem here. I doubt aging will help.
This Syrah extravaganza needs to stop. Like all the varietal extravaganzas before it.
Day 3 - Deeper nose, more earth and herbs. Round, creamy, peppery, stemmy action in the mouth. Obviously trying harder after my earlier comments. Definitely tight on the finish, but now the (much more interesting) flavors ride longer. Good to know that Mr. Guthrie has programmed his wines to respond to criticism. PFG.
$45
Integrated, discreet nose. Brown sugar, black/blue fruit, slight herbs.
Plush entry immediately challenged by strong acidity. Nice mid-palate flesh/depth. Funny, though, there's a serious thrill/interest problem here. I doubt aging will help.
This Syrah extravaganza needs to stop. Like all the varietal extravaganzas before it.
Day 3 - Deeper nose, more earth and herbs. Round, creamy, peppery, stemmy action in the mouth. Obviously trying harder after my earlier comments. Definitely tight on the finish, but now the (much more interesting) flavors ride longer. Good to know that Mr. Guthrie has programmed his wines to respond to criticism. PFG.
$45
Monday, August 11, 2008
Vietti, Barbera d'Asti "Tre Vigne" 2003
Red/purple.
Deep clay/earth and savory/grilled meat nose. I'm thinking Tempranillo.
Then very intense in the mouth, with a tight-fisted black fruit character and major acid thrust. But, for Barbera, this is approachable. On the other hand, it's also five years old. Unquestionably, this is some seriously good action, especially at the price.
$17
Deep clay/earth and savory/grilled meat nose. I'm thinking Tempranillo.
Then very intense in the mouth, with a tight-fisted black fruit character and major acid thrust. But, for Barbera, this is approachable. On the other hand, it's also five years old. Unquestionably, this is some seriously good action, especially at the price.
$17
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Three Hills Shiraz Margaret River 2000 (West Coast Australia)
Purple/red.
Deep and lifted aromatics - licorice, juniper, white pepper with a pool of raspberry underneath. Savory meat too. Killer nose.
Round with good, slightly grainy, density. Great lift in the mouth also, thanks to the first three aromatic components. No sense of alcohol. Structure is obvious, but does not impede flavor flow. Late medicinal note. How could you get tired of this?
$20 on a blowout sale, should be $45. This style didn't have many fans back in 2004/5.
Deep and lifted aromatics - licorice, juniper, white pepper with a pool of raspberry underneath. Savory meat too. Killer nose.
Round with good, slightly grainy, density. Great lift in the mouth also, thanks to the first three aromatic components. No sense of alcohol. Structure is obvious, but does not impede flavor flow. Late medicinal note. How could you get tired of this?
$20 on a blowout sale, should be $45. This style didn't have many fans back in 2004/5.
Saturday, August 9, 2008
Phelps "Insignia" Napa Valley 1996
Deep red.
Toasted hazelnut, raspberry and a funky earth/medicinal note that reminds me of certain Shiraz.
Intense and lively in the mouth - no sweetness. Compact and dense. Blackcurrant and a bit of mint flare initially, then substantial acid/tannin synergy clamps down. Flavors slip out again on the subtle finish. Wonder where this is going?
Day 3 - Showing some raspberry sweetness in the mouth now. Deep and plush, with mildly chewy tannin. Nice stuff, but lacks any sense of complexity.
$65 on release? 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot
Toasted hazelnut, raspberry and a funky earth/medicinal note that reminds me of certain Shiraz.
Intense and lively in the mouth - no sweetness. Compact and dense. Blackcurrant and a bit of mint flare initially, then substantial acid/tannin synergy clamps down. Flavors slip out again on the subtle finish. Wonder where this is going?
Day 3 - Showing some raspberry sweetness in the mouth now. Deep and plush, with mildly chewy tannin. Nice stuff, but lacks any sense of complexity.
$65 on release? 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Achaval-Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2005
Hazy purple/red.
Very attractive nose - smoky black fruit, licorice, clay/earth.
Round entry immediately challenged by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Tight mid-palate and finishing structure restricts, but does not kill flavor flow. Front teeth chew. Very late iron note. This needs some bottle time, say 3-4 years, and should drink well for years after that.
Stupid deal.
$27 37% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Very attractive nose - smoky black fruit, licorice, clay/earth.
Round entry immediately challenged by strong acidity and moderate tannin. Tight mid-palate and finishing structure restricts, but does not kill flavor flow. Front teeth chew. Very late iron note. This needs some bottle time, say 3-4 years, and should drink well for years after that.
Stupid deal.
$27 37% Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
d'Arenberg "Hermit Crab" Viognier/Marsanne, Adelaide 2007
Straw.
Ripe lime, mineral nose.
Round, with a textural sweetness buffered by well-judged acidity. Fresh, vibrant lime note repeats.
Good stuff.
$14, screwcap
Ripe lime, mineral nose.
Round, with a textural sweetness buffered by well-judged acidity. Fresh, vibrant lime note repeats.
Good stuff.
$14, screwcap
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Galardi "Terra di Lavoro" Roccamonfina IGT 2001
Purple/red.
Wild, earth, nose. Most call it lava rock - can't argue - does smell a bit like pumice. A medicinal note too, as well as truffle and cherry jam (Amarone-esque). Expanding with air.
Leanish in the mouth, with driving acidity and tight bitter cherry and licorice flavors. Reminds me of great Nebbiolo, but with a lava twist. Hugely structured, but nervy red fruit flavor rides through long, salivating, chewy finish. I wonder when this will strut? 2020?
WTF? As usual, Aglianico tastes like little else. Nebbiolo as your closest reference point?
Day 4 - No longer reminiscent of Nebbiolo. Aromas now truffle and pumice. Amarone comes to mind. This association holds up in the mouth too - as this now has a plush mid-palate. Finishing structure is huge/tannic, flavors all pumice/smoke. Not sure how to get this off my teeth/out of my mouth. A cup of hot lamb fat?
$130
Wild, earth, nose. Most call it lava rock - can't argue - does smell a bit like pumice. A medicinal note too, as well as truffle and cherry jam (Amarone-esque). Expanding with air.
Leanish in the mouth, with driving acidity and tight bitter cherry and licorice flavors. Reminds me of great Nebbiolo, but with a lava twist. Hugely structured, but nervy red fruit flavor rides through long, salivating, chewy finish. I wonder when this will strut? 2020?
WTF? As usual, Aglianico tastes like little else. Nebbiolo as your closest reference point?
Day 4 - No longer reminiscent of Nebbiolo. Aromas now truffle and pumice. Amarone comes to mind. This association holds up in the mouth too - as this now has a plush mid-palate. Finishing structure is huge/tannic, flavors all pumice/smoke. Not sure how to get this off my teeth/out of my mouth. A cup of hot lamb fat?
$130
Mustiguillo "Quincha Corral" Vino de la Tierra Terrerazo 2004
Purple/black.
Extremely deep, inky aromas - high quality (French?) oak, incense, blackcurrant/blackberry, spice and earth. Crazy concentration, and refinement evident just in the nose.
Round, with a sweet oak character. Blackest of black fruit, extremely intense, with a corresponding intensity of structure. Flavor/structure pixel count is huge, beyond anything I've seen since my last bottle of Caprai Sangrantino. No shit. But this manages to show some textural sweetness/give.
Killer and in need of many years in the bottle.
Day 4 - Sexy oak treatment still evident on the nose. Structured and deep, with great purity. Massive structure in the finish does not kill flavor flow. Superb winemaking here. The 2000 (tasted at a Spanish-themed restaurant in Sacramento) was all oak/brutal. Just how many years does this (2004) need? I'd say 10, in a good cellar/wine fridge.
$75, 100% Bobal (esoteric Spanish variety)
Extremely deep, inky aromas - high quality (French?) oak, incense, blackcurrant/blackberry, spice and earth. Crazy concentration, and refinement evident just in the nose.
Round, with a sweet oak character. Blackest of black fruit, extremely intense, with a corresponding intensity of structure. Flavor/structure pixel count is huge, beyond anything I've seen since my last bottle of Caprai Sangrantino. No shit. But this manages to show some textural sweetness/give.
Killer and in need of many years in the bottle.
Day 4 - Sexy oak treatment still evident on the nose. Structured and deep, with great purity. Massive structure in the finish does not kill flavor flow. Superb winemaking here. The 2000 (tasted at a Spanish-themed restaurant in Sacramento) was all oak/brutal. Just how many years does this (2004) need? I'd say 10, in a good cellar/wine fridge.
$75, 100% Bobal (esoteric Spanish variety)
Clos du Mont-Olivet "Cuvee du Papet" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004
Deep red.
Red cherry coulis and garrigue aromas with suggestions of nuts, earth, red licorice underneath.
Garrigue quite prominent in the mouth, with corresponding chewy stem (?) tannin. Nicely backed up by red cherry and licorice flavor density. Quite structured, slightly rustic (positive), but flavors flow freely on another track. VGS.
Day 4 - Suave, integrated nose. Round and mouth-filling, with an unobtrusive edge of acidity/stem chew that keeps everything lively. Very good mid-palate flesh.
$50
Red cherry coulis and garrigue aromas with suggestions of nuts, earth, red licorice underneath.
Garrigue quite prominent in the mouth, with corresponding chewy stem (?) tannin. Nicely backed up by red cherry and licorice flavor density. Quite structured, slightly rustic (positive), but flavors flow freely on another track. VGS.
Day 4 - Suave, integrated nose. Round and mouth-filling, with an unobtrusive edge of acidity/stem chew that keeps everything lively. Very good mid-palate flesh.
$50
Domaine Tempier "Migoua" 2004 (Bandol, France)
Purple/red.
Deep clay/earth, blackberry/raspberry coulis and savory meat.
Vivid (for Bandol) raspberry in the mouth, with clay/earth as a follow-up. Quite pure and grainy/chewy in texture. Much better than the Tourtine blogged awhile back. This has real guts. Not complex, but it may well gain it with time in the bottle.
Day 4 - Nose less differentiated, a bit diffuse. Palate better, still has fruit purity, with tannic backbone amplified.
Funny, I'd still go with Bastide Blanche anytime. At half the price.
$45
Deep clay/earth, blackberry/raspberry coulis and savory meat.
Vivid (for Bandol) raspberry in the mouth, with clay/earth as a follow-up. Quite pure and grainy/chewy in texture. Much better than the Tourtine blogged awhile back. This has real guts. Not complex, but it may well gain it with time in the bottle.
Day 4 - Nose less differentiated, a bit diffuse. Palate better, still has fruit purity, with tannic backbone amplified.
Funny, I'd still go with Bastide Blanche anytime. At half the price.
$45
J.L. Chave Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Sybele"2005
Straw/yellow.
Low key, non-descript nose - hints of almond extract, citrus and white peach.
Round and mouth-coating, but this has mineral cut. In fact, it is quite precise in the mouth, largely due to good acidity and strong minerality. Flavors include ripe lemon, almond paste and a citrus zest character in the finish that has nice synergy with mineral chew. Long, subtle finish - almond paste and meal.
I assume this is basically 100% Marsanne.
$30
Low key, non-descript nose - hints of almond extract, citrus and white peach.
Round and mouth-coating, but this has mineral cut. In fact, it is quite precise in the mouth, largely due to good acidity and strong minerality. Flavors include ripe lemon, almond paste and a citrus zest character in the finish that has nice synergy with mineral chew. Long, subtle finish - almond paste and meal.
I assume this is basically 100% Marsanne.
$30
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Clarendon Hills, Roma's, Grenache 2002
Red/purple.
Black raspberry and mint aromas with a saline undertone. Deep but understated, reaching the higher levels on the aromatic orgasmatron scale.
Deep, sweet and saline in the mouth. Huge pools of raspberry coulis and saline action in the mouth. Stiff acid and saline chew keeps it all in check.
? Not sure how to comment. Not complex in the usual meaning of the word, but texturally beyond comprehension. Not something I'm generally a fan of. But..
Day 3 - Similar, deep, Chambord-like nose, with salinity still evident. Killer. Then round, deep and packed/suave in the mouth, with structural elements hitting later and a bit (and only a bit) lighter. This will age very well. Not so sure about the 2001 version.
Interesting to note that Roman Bratasiuk (Clarendon Hills)
and the elder Golitzin at Quiceda Creek (WA) were/are both chemical engineers.
$80
Black raspberry and mint aromas with a saline undertone. Deep but understated, reaching the higher levels on the aromatic orgasmatron scale.
Deep, sweet and saline in the mouth. Huge pools of raspberry coulis and saline action in the mouth. Stiff acid and saline chew keeps it all in check.
? Not sure how to comment. Not complex in the usual meaning of the word, but texturally beyond comprehension. Not something I'm generally a fan of. But..
Day 3 - Similar, deep, Chambord-like nose, with salinity still evident. Killer. Then round, deep and packed/suave in the mouth, with structural elements hitting later and a bit (and only a bit) lighter. This will age very well. Not so sure about the 2001 version.
Interesting to note that Roman Bratasiuk (Clarendon Hills)
and the elder Golitzin at Quiceda Creek (WA) were/are both chemical engineers.
$80
Forgeron Cellars, Zinfandel, Columbia Valley 2004
Deep red.
Deep, but not precise, nose - maple syrup, oak spice and black fruit.
Round, sweet, creamy in the mouth. Deep, but monolithic flavors of oak spice and black fruit. Good drinking action, just lacks an extra dimension.
Day 3 - Deep, rich aromatic action. Completely plush in the mouth, packed in the mid-palate. Long and satisfying.
Gift - $30?
Deep, but not precise, nose - maple syrup, oak spice and black fruit.
Round, sweet, creamy in the mouth. Deep, but monolithic flavors of oak spice and black fruit. Good drinking action, just lacks an extra dimension.
Day 3 - Deep, rich aromatic action. Completely plush in the mouth, packed in the mid-palate. Long and satisfying.
Gift - $30?
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Red/lighter rim.
Nuanced, complex nose - brown spices, garrigue, iron, a floral note, earth/savory meat, cherry jam, licorice. Seamless, no hint of alcohol.
Round, mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that is offset by acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate. Flavors lean toward garrigue and earth, with a saline edge. Structure is reasonably fine, but currently keeps fruit and additional complexity in the brig. Cherry action surfaces with air time. This should be rocking tomorrow.
Day 3 - Cherry jam and incense dominating the nose, with garrigue, spice and meat underneath. Really expressing in the mouth now - brown spices, garrigue, cherry jam and a malt character (no shit). Still mightily structured. Long, slow ride promised here.
$50
Nuanced, complex nose - brown spices, garrigue, iron, a floral note, earth/savory meat, cherry jam, licorice. Seamless, no hint of alcohol.
Round, mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that is offset by acid/tannin synergy in the mid-palate. Flavors lean toward garrigue and earth, with a saline edge. Structure is reasonably fine, but currently keeps fruit and additional complexity in the brig. Cherry action surfaces with air time. This should be rocking tomorrow.
Day 3 - Cherry jam and incense dominating the nose, with garrigue, spice and meat underneath. Really expressing in the mouth now - brown spices, garrigue, cherry jam and a malt character (no shit). Still mightily structured. Long, slow ride promised here.
$50
Copain, Zinfandel, Arrowhead Mountain, Sonoma Valley 2004
Deep red.
Vibrant balsa wood, spice, earth and cran/raspberry aromas. Hint of celery.
Bright and deep in the mouth, with celery adding interest to earth/spice/cranberry flavors. NIce mid-palate density and flavor flow. Acid-driven chew coats the front teeth. Long finishing flavors of balsa, citrus zest and spice.
Very interesting stylistic contrast to the Ridge Geyserville.
Day 4 - More savory on the nose now, celery gone. Intense red fruit and balsa in the mouth, no sense of weight. Reminds me of Turley's better stuff. Could drink a ton of this.
$35
Vibrant balsa wood, spice, earth and cran/raspberry aromas. Hint of celery.
Bright and deep in the mouth, with celery adding interest to earth/spice/cranberry flavors. NIce mid-palate density and flavor flow. Acid-driven chew coats the front teeth. Long finishing flavors of balsa, citrus zest and spice.
Very interesting stylistic contrast to the Ridge Geyserville.
Day 4 - More savory on the nose now, celery gone. Intense red fruit and balsa in the mouth, no sense of weight. Reminds me of Turley's better stuff. Could drink a ton of this.
$35
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Kongsgaard, Syrah, Napa Valley 2001
Purple/red.
Deep, rich aromas of menthol, grilled meat, soy, toasted nuts.
Round with a saline/acid edge. Interesting, as these wines are, I've read, routinely 3.9-4.0 in pH. Nice sense of naturalness.
But I'm not getting anything too exciting (on the palate) at the moment. Slightly grainy tannin in the long, subtle finish.
Day 3 - Extremely deep nose - menthol, melted licorice, smoked meat. More expansive in the mouth, but similar to day 1. But there is an oozingly deep feel in the mouth, with aromatics echoing, now, in the mouth. Funny, though, I'd rather drink many other Syrahs.
$100
Deep, rich aromas of menthol, grilled meat, soy, toasted nuts.
Round with a saline/acid edge. Interesting, as these wines are, I've read, routinely 3.9-4.0 in pH. Nice sense of naturalness.
But I'm not getting anything too exciting (on the palate) at the moment. Slightly grainy tannin in the long, subtle finish.
Day 3 - Extremely deep nose - menthol, melted licorice, smoked meat. More expansive in the mouth, but similar to day 1. But there is an oozingly deep feel in the mouth, with aromatics echoing, now, in the mouth. Funny, though, I'd rather drink many other Syrahs.
$100
Marques de Casa Concha, Syrah, Peumo, Chile 2005
Deep purple.
Deep aromas - balsamic grilled meat, oak toast, blackberry and earth.
Intense, slightly saline entry. Acid dominant structure clamps down considerably on black fruit and spice flavors, but not ridiculously so. Nice purity and concentration, little complexity. This will probably improve with another 2-3 years in the bottle.
Day 3 - Some musky/coconut aromas now. But better in the mouth, though coconut emerges there too. Density is impressive, particularly for the $$.
$18
Deep aromas - balsamic grilled meat, oak toast, blackberry and earth.
Intense, slightly saline entry. Acid dominant structure clamps down considerably on black fruit and spice flavors, but not ridiculously so. Nice purity and concentration, little complexity. This will probably improve with another 2-3 years in the bottle.
Day 3 - Some musky/coconut aromas now. But better in the mouth, though coconut emerges there too. Density is impressive, particularly for the $$.
$18
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
d'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz 2005
Opaque purple.
A deep, oozing nose - saline, medicinal/gamey, pepper, dried fig and popcorn.
Round and mouth-filling initially, then hemmed in by an acid/saline edge that coats the front teeth. Coconut also shows up, unfortunately. This, again, seems completely dis-jointed, for no reason. There is no question that the raw material is superb, but you have to question the handling.
A great contrast to the Pertinace, which is also massively structured.
Day 3 - Oak oil and nut as new aromatic contributions. Deep and plush, initially. Then acid-enhanced tannin drives pleasure out of the mouth. Who knows, maybe this will freely express at some point.
I don't get it.
$65
A deep, oozing nose - saline, medicinal/gamey, pepper, dried fig and popcorn.
Round and mouth-filling initially, then hemmed in by an acid/saline edge that coats the front teeth. Coconut also shows up, unfortunately. This, again, seems completely dis-jointed, for no reason. There is no question that the raw material is superb, but you have to question the handling.
A great contrast to the Pertinace, which is also massively structured.
Day 3 - Oak oil and nut as new aromatic contributions. Deep and plush, initially. Then acid-enhanced tannin drives pleasure out of the mouth. Who knows, maybe this will freely express at some point.
I don't get it.
$65
Pertinace, Vigneto Marcarini, Barbaresco 2004
Ruby/red.
Cherry jam, earth, brown spice, leather nose. Fresh, lifted.
Intense, vibrant, almost painful (Tanzer-ism) flavors matching the nose. Massive, acid-driven structure clenches the mid-palate, but does not kill finishing strawberry/cherry flavor. Great purity.
PFG. This should drink well for a very long time.
Day 3 - Cherry jam, hazelnut liqueur dominant aromas now. Red licorice too. Deep cherry action in the mouth, along with prune (positive). Huge teeth-coating structure, driven by strong acidity.
$45
Cherry jam, earth, brown spice, leather nose. Fresh, lifted.
Intense, vibrant, almost painful (Tanzer-ism) flavors matching the nose. Massive, acid-driven structure clenches the mid-palate, but does not kill finishing strawberry/cherry flavor. Great purity.
PFG. This should drink well for a very long time.
Day 3 - Cherry jam, hazelnut liqueur dominant aromas now. Red licorice too. Deep cherry action in the mouth, along with prune (positive). Huge teeth-coating structure, driven by strong acidity.
$45
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2003
Pale yellow.
Toasted grain/meal/truffle/sauteed onion/caramel nose. Lemon oil underneath.
Round, dense, creamy (like creme brulee creamy, with flavors to match) in the mouth. Singular textural depth. Aubert and Kongsgaard are precise, linear - this is dipped in fat extract. Yet is not at all "flabby". This is actually quite structured - mineral/acid chew manages to uplift the tremendous flavor density. Apart from other Marcassins, I've never tasted Chardonnay like this.
Crazy.
Day 3 - Creamed corn and brine nuances added to the above aromas. Deep, luscious creme caramel/truffle flavors. Stupid length.
$95
Toasted grain/meal/truffle/sauteed onion/caramel nose. Lemon oil underneath.
Round, dense, creamy (like creme brulee creamy, with flavors to match) in the mouth. Singular textural depth. Aubert and Kongsgaard are precise, linear - this is dipped in fat extract. Yet is not at all "flabby". This is actually quite structured - mineral/acid chew manages to uplift the tremendous flavor density. Apart from other Marcassins, I've never tasted Chardonnay like this.
Crazy.
Day 3 - Creamed corn and brine nuances added to the above aromas. Deep, luscious creme caramel/truffle flavors. Stupid length.
$95
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Clos St. Jean, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Very deep red.
Spicy cherry jam/kirsch - garrigue and earth underneath. Understated nose that nevertheless conveys power and depth. Pure.
Packed in the mouth - huge concentration for the $$. Actually ridiculous. Not particularly complex at the moment, but this benefits from very enlightened winemaking, as well as great raw material. The mid-palate is loaded, buttressed by massive structure that gets lost in the wealth of fruit riches.
Yada , yada. This is stupid for the $$.
Day 4 - Now I'm getting more clay/earth than fruit in the nose. Reminds me of Mas Blanc "Moulin" from Collioure - must have significant Mourvedre. Same absolutely packed impression in the mouth. Not the volume of a 2003, but some will like this better. I can't believe the depth here for $35.
$35
Spicy cherry jam/kirsch - garrigue and earth underneath. Understated nose that nevertheless conveys power and depth. Pure.
Packed in the mouth - huge concentration for the $$. Actually ridiculous. Not particularly complex at the moment, but this benefits from very enlightened winemaking, as well as great raw material. The mid-palate is loaded, buttressed by massive structure that gets lost in the wealth of fruit riches.
Yada , yada. This is stupid for the $$.
Day 4 - Now I'm getting more clay/earth than fruit in the nose. Reminds me of Mas Blanc "Moulin" from Collioure - must have significant Mourvedre. Same absolutely packed impression in the mouth. Not the volume of a 2003, but some will like this better. I can't believe the depth here for $35.
$35
Mauro, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon 2005
Purple/red.
Deep black pudding fruit/custard, meat, earth and oak spice nose.
Huge depth in the mouth, really out-sized. Makes most neighboring Ribera del Dueros seem light-weight. But that isn't necessarily a compliment. Here, it is, as this also demonstrates reasonable complexity and fruit to burn (Tanzerism). No lack of supporting structure that also does not overwhelm. Love to see this thing in 7-9 years.
Day 2 - I was thinking I was over-enthusiastic about this last night. Not. Huge mid-palate now neutralized by serious acid/tannin synergy. Structural chew coats every tooth in the mouth.
Day 4 - Great density (still) obvious in the nose. I'm thinking this is a great value, but I'm basing that on yesteryear's cost ($30). Nevertheless, this is major league action.
Mariano Garcia's (long time Vega Sicilia winemaker) home estate. Killer - squared.
$50
Deep black pudding fruit/custard, meat, earth and oak spice nose.
Huge depth in the mouth, really out-sized. Makes most neighboring Ribera del Dueros seem light-weight. But that isn't necessarily a compliment. Here, it is, as this also demonstrates reasonable complexity and fruit to burn (Tanzerism). No lack of supporting structure that also does not overwhelm. Love to see this thing in 7-9 years.
Day 2 - I was thinking I was over-enthusiastic about this last night. Not. Huge mid-palate now neutralized by serious acid/tannin synergy. Structural chew coats every tooth in the mouth.
Day 4 - Great density (still) obvious in the nose. I'm thinking this is a great value, but I'm basing that on yesteryear's cost ($30). Nevertheless, this is major league action.
Mariano Garcia's (long time Vega Sicilia winemaker) home estate. Killer - squared.
$50
Ridge, Geyserville 2005 (40th vintage)
Deep red.
Low-toned coconut and red fruit nose. Brown sugar and an exotic peach note too.
Round, but not creamy, as rather strong acidity provides structural support. Very nice mid-palate depth. All intense cranberry in the long finish, with acid-driven structure coating the front teeth in chew.
Day 4 - Ultimately, this just isn't very interesting. Like more than a few wines from Paso, well-reputed, but all about seamlessness/textural considerations = boring.
77% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah
Gift - $40?
Low-toned coconut and red fruit nose. Brown sugar and an exotic peach note too.
Round, but not creamy, as rather strong acidity provides structural support. Very nice mid-palate depth. All intense cranberry in the long finish, with acid-driven structure coating the front teeth in chew.
Day 4 - Ultimately, this just isn't very interesting. Like more than a few wines from Paso, well-reputed, but all about seamlessness/textural considerations = boring.
77% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah
Gift - $40?
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Artadi "Grandes Anadas" Rioja 2000
Purple/red.
Deep, pure, meaty, saucy nose. Definitely shows more oak influence than the Pagos Viejos.
Round with significant fruit sweetness in the mouth. Black raspberry, oak spice, earth and mint. Very deep, suave and long.
Significant, finely-grained tannin lightly coat the front teeth. Beautiful stuff.
Opened yesterday
Day 4 - Great aromatic integration now - savory meat, allspice, cinnamon, brown sugar, black raspberry coulis. Still has great depth in the mouth, with no excess weight, airy. Great tannin quality. Killer.
$100
Deep, pure, meaty, saucy nose. Definitely shows more oak influence than the Pagos Viejos.
Round with significant fruit sweetness in the mouth. Black raspberry, oak spice, earth and mint. Very deep, suave and long.
Significant, finely-grained tannin lightly coat the front teeth. Beautiful stuff.
Opened yesterday
Day 4 - Great aromatic integration now - savory meat, allspice, cinnamon, brown sugar, black raspberry coulis. Still has great depth in the mouth, with no excess weight, airy. Great tannin quality. Killer.
$100
Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2000
Red/purple.
Very attractive, understated nose - sexy spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg), black raspberry/cherry, clay/earth, savory meat. Melded, refined, deep.
Round and with a saline edge, showing a citrus/pepper nuance in the mouth. Very much a middle-weight, getting points for class/refinement. There's a Pinot-like tang in the finish. Nice action, but this isn't as thrilling as some other vintages.
Opened yesterday.
Day 4 - I think this bottle is slightly whacked. It's shown a late note of oxidation, increasingly, from the above post till today.
I remember loving earlier bottles.
$50
Very attractive, understated nose - sexy spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg), black raspberry/cherry, clay/earth, savory meat. Melded, refined, deep.
Round and with a saline edge, showing a citrus/pepper nuance in the mouth. Very much a middle-weight, getting points for class/refinement. There's a Pinot-like tang in the finish. Nice action, but this isn't as thrilling as some other vintages.
Opened yesterday.
Day 4 - I think this bottle is slightly whacked. It's shown a late note of oxidation, increasingly, from the above post till today.
I remember loving earlier bottles.
$50
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Bodegas Naia "Naiades" 2005 (Rueda, Spain)
Light yellow.
Deep, saucy lime, mineral and earth aromatics.
Intense lemon/lime zest entry. Mineral central mid-palate, lingering into a rock strewn finish. Chewy, mineral feel. Very cool action
$28
Deep, saucy lime, mineral and earth aromatics.
Intense lemon/lime zest entry. Mineral central mid-palate, lingering into a rock strewn finish. Chewy, mineral feel. Very cool action
$28
Chateau Guiraud, Premier Cru Sauternes 1996
Deep copper/gold.
Deep, roasted botrytis/marmalade nose. Caramel/custard nuance.
Thick, sweet, roasted botrytis flavors, with poached pear and caramel undertones. At this point I lose any basis for evaluation, as I'm hardly a white dessert, let alone a Sauternes, expert... This is quite deeply flavored, though not particularly precise. Huge, roasted botrytis, length. I think I could get used to a bottle of this a night.
$?, 375 mL
Deep, roasted botrytis/marmalade nose. Caramel/custard nuance.
Thick, sweet, roasted botrytis flavors, with poached pear and caramel undertones. At this point I lose any basis for evaluation, as I'm hardly a white dessert, let alone a Sauternes, expert... This is quite deeply flavored, though not particularly precise. Huge, roasted botrytis, length. I think I could get used to a bottle of this a night.
$?, 375 mL
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Pelletier "Coccigrues" St Chinian 2005
Purple/red.
Sea-side undertone to fig, oak spice and licorice aromas.
Round and completely mouth-filling, with acid-edged structure slithering in from the corners of the mouth. Can't match the Alban for density, or fineness, for that matter, but this has personality and will get better with a few years of bottle age. Citrus/spice/mineral flavors ride long and chewy.
Day 3 - Showing considerable aldehyde/oxidized character in the finish. Showed some oxidation last night too.
Decant and drink in one go. I still think this will age reasonably well. I think this is a tank-aged wine. It often takes a few years for a wine like this to come into equilibrium.
$30
Sea-side undertone to fig, oak spice and licorice aromas.
Round and completely mouth-filling, with acid-edged structure slithering in from the corners of the mouth. Can't match the Alban for density, or fineness, for that matter, but this has personality and will get better with a few years of bottle age. Citrus/spice/mineral flavors ride long and chewy.
Day 3 - Showing considerable aldehyde/oxidized character in the finish. Showed some oxidation last night too.
Decant and drink in one go. I still think this will age reasonably well. I think this is a tank-aged wine. It often takes a few years for a wine like this to come into equilibrium.
$30
Alban "Reva" Syrah 2005 (Edna Valley)
Opaque purple.
Extremely deep nose - blood orange/pepper steak/potato skin/licorice. No heat.
Round and completely creamy in the mouth, with a slight saline character. Juniper/pepper/sweet black fruit flavors remind me immediately of western Australia Shiraz, but I've never had one as concentrated as this. Covers everything in the mouth. Structure is fine and slightly grainy. Not a huge wine in any obvious sense, except concentration.
RFG
Day 3 - Stupidly complex on the nose now - still shows citrus/pepper action, but there's a wilted greens character that gets us back to the northern Rhone. Deep, suave, self-contained. Round with some textural sweetness - crazy killer.
Well-structured without being intrusive. Nice acid-driven tannin cut.
Late aromatic note of pipe tobacco.
$75, 15.7% alcohol listed
Extremely deep nose - blood orange/pepper steak/potato skin/licorice. No heat.
Round and completely creamy in the mouth, with a slight saline character. Juniper/pepper/sweet black fruit flavors remind me immediately of western Australia Shiraz, but I've never had one as concentrated as this. Covers everything in the mouth. Structure is fine and slightly grainy. Not a huge wine in any obvious sense, except concentration.
RFG
Day 3 - Stupidly complex on the nose now - still shows citrus/pepper action, but there's a wilted greens character that gets us back to the northern Rhone. Deep, suave, self-contained. Round with some textural sweetness - crazy killer.
Well-structured without being intrusive. Nice acid-driven tannin cut.
Late aromatic note of pipe tobacco.
$75, 15.7% alcohol listed
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Bussola "TB" Amarone 1998
Deep, dull red.
Deep, saucy nose of sawdust/smoke/truffle/BBQ sauce/black cherry jam/savory meat. There's no doubt that this will absolutely packed in the mouth.
This obviously has a bit of residual sugar, but any sweetness is immediately tempered by smoky, savory, black cherry jam flavored chew. Acidity seems fairly strong, which helps support the crazy flavor depth. Actually tight and focused in the finish.
This might drink well forever - how can it die?
Day 5 - Nose now oozes flavors to come. Huge flavor impact, RS quite concealed. ... Yada, yada..
Again - how can this die?
$75 on release. Listed 16% alcohol. No heat whatsoever.
Deep, saucy nose of sawdust/smoke/truffle/BBQ sauce/black cherry jam/savory meat. There's no doubt that this will absolutely packed in the mouth.
This obviously has a bit of residual sugar, but any sweetness is immediately tempered by smoky, savory, black cherry jam flavored chew. Acidity seems fairly strong, which helps support the crazy flavor depth. Actually tight and focused in the finish.
This might drink well forever - how can it die?
Day 5 - Nose now oozes flavors to come. Huge flavor impact, RS quite concealed. ... Yada, yada..
Again - how can this die?
$75 on release. Listed 16% alcohol. No heat whatsoever.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Tardieu-Laurent, St. Joseph "Vieilles Vignes" 2003
Purple/red.
This showed considerable new oak influence 30 minutes ago - now doing the smoked meat/breakfast sausage/spice/dried fig thing on the nose. Deep, but also has clarity and a salivary start button.
Round and edgy simultaneously. There's no hint of extreme ripeness here. Oak spice, licorice and bound up black fruit flavors. Major acid/tannin synergy shuts down the mid-palate. Nevertheless, black fruit and spice flavors break on through to the other side.
Day 4 - Integrated, deep nose manages also to be understated. Much easier in the mid-palate today. This really is beautiful stuff.
$35 Definitely worth buying in quantity.
This showed considerable new oak influence 30 minutes ago - now doing the smoked meat/breakfast sausage/spice/dried fig thing on the nose. Deep, but also has clarity and a salivary start button.
Round and edgy simultaneously. There's no hint of extreme ripeness here. Oak spice, licorice and bound up black fruit flavors. Major acid/tannin synergy shuts down the mid-palate. Nevertheless, black fruit and spice flavors break on through to the other side.
Day 4 - Integrated, deep nose manages also to be understated. Much easier in the mid-palate today. This really is beautiful stuff.
$35 Definitely worth buying in quantity.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Dog Ridge, Petit Verdot, McLaren Vale 2004
Purple/black.
Creosote and darkest of black fruits nose. This had a very Shiraz-like, creamy black fruit nose a couple of years ago.
Round and completely packed in the mouth. Here the saline impression has more to do with crazy concentration. Licorice, popcorn (indeed) and black fruit flavors ride through plush mid-palate. An almost mineral structure tightens the finish. This has really gotten interesting in the bottle. Not a fruit-bomb anymore.
Day 4 - Little aromatic change. I must admit, I can't believe this is Petit Verdot. But production techniques could account for this.
Aged in neutral barrels.
$25, screwcap
Creosote and darkest of black fruits nose. This had a very Shiraz-like, creamy black fruit nose a couple of years ago.
Round and completely packed in the mouth. Here the saline impression has more to do with crazy concentration. Licorice, popcorn (indeed) and black fruit flavors ride through plush mid-palate. An almost mineral structure tightens the finish. This has really gotten interesting in the bottle. Not a fruit-bomb anymore.
Day 4 - Little aromatic change. I must admit, I can't believe this is Petit Verdot. But production techniques could account for this.
Aged in neutral barrels.
$25, screwcap
Craneford, Petit Verdot, Barossa Valley 2002
Deep red/purple.
Deep black fruit, garrigue, salami and nut aromas.
Round and plush (amazingly), with a slight saline edge. Very easy flow through the mid-palate. Not particularly complex in the mouth, or deep, but suave and satisfying. No overt signs of oak.
Day 4 - Hard grape candy, cinnamon new aromatic additions. Not sure why I thought this wasn't deep on day 1 - it is - quite.
Loaded with powdery tannin on the long, saline/salami finish.
$25 on release
Deep black fruit, garrigue, salami and nut aromas.
Round and plush (amazingly), with a slight saline edge. Very easy flow through the mid-palate. Not particularly complex in the mouth, or deep, but suave and satisfying. No overt signs of oak.
Day 4 - Hard grape candy, cinnamon new aromatic additions. Not sure why I thought this wasn't deep on day 1 - it is - quite.
Loaded with powdery tannin on the long, saline/salami finish.
$25 on release
Friday, July 4, 2008
Pax, Syrah "Kobler" (Green Valley) Russian River Valley 2006
Black/purple.
Deep, saucy nose - black fruit/Fig Newton, green chili (indeed), grilled meat and oak spice/earth. Cracked black pepper with air.
Intense, light-weight impression in the mouth - citrus(?), stem chew ... Pretty bound up at the moment. No sweetness here - serious stuff. Long citrus and green chili flavor ride along with monster structure.
Love it or leave it.
Day 3 - Licorice and graham cracker aromas over blackberry pie filling. Intense with typical, grainy, Pax concentration in the mouth. Green character subdued now. Citrus chew hits later, coating the front teeth. I look forward to drinking this over the next 6-10 years.
$60 (97% Syrah, 3% Viognier). 13.5% alcohol.
Deep, saucy nose - black fruit/Fig Newton, green chili (indeed), grilled meat and oak spice/earth. Cracked black pepper with air.
Intense, light-weight impression in the mouth - citrus(?), stem chew ... Pretty bound up at the moment. No sweetness here - serious stuff. Long citrus and green chili flavor ride along with monster structure.
Love it or leave it.
Day 3 - Licorice and graham cracker aromas over blackberry pie filling. Intense with typical, grainy, Pax concentration in the mouth. Green character subdued now. Citrus chew hits later, coating the front teeth. I look forward to drinking this over the next 6-10 years.
$60 (97% Syrah, 3% Viognier). 13.5% alcohol.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Saxum "James Berry Vineyard" Paso Robles 2005
Purple.
Complicated nose - grilled meat, truffle/sulfide, cherry jam - now this works wonders for me. Great depth.
Round, mouth-filling with only a hint of sweetness. Serious acid spine creeps up without overwhelming the flavors of deep cherry jam, oak spice and mineral chew that coats the front teeth. Alcohol is not much of a factor here. Will this get better in the bottle? Maybe.
Day 3 - Still rocks. Deep, but not at all heavy. Alcohol peaks out a bit more tonight... Funny - my first inclination is to compare this to the Pegau, not a northern Rhone.
$50 - 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache.
Complicated nose - grilled meat, truffle/sulfide, cherry jam - now this works wonders for me. Great depth.
Round, mouth-filling with only a hint of sweetness. Serious acid spine creeps up without overwhelming the flavors of deep cherry jam, oak spice and mineral chew that coats the front teeth. Alcohol is not much of a factor here. Will this get better in the bottle? Maybe.
Day 3 - Still rocks. Deep, but not at all heavy. Alcohol peaks out a bit more tonight... Funny - my first inclination is to compare this to the Pegau, not a northern Rhone.
$50 - 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Two Hands "Bad Impersonator" Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2003
Purple/red.
Deep, saucy nose - dried fig, suggestion of VA and oak spice/nut. Black raspberry jam late.
Round, saline and a bit sweet/sour (VA) in the mouth. Very deep, but also something of a freak show. Similar to a bottle I opened 2-3 years ago.
I can't enjoy this. Unfortunately living up to its name.
$35
Deep, saucy nose - dried fig, suggestion of VA and oak spice/nut. Black raspberry jam late.
Round, saline and a bit sweet/sour (VA) in the mouth. Very deep, but also something of a freak show. Similar to a bottle I opened 2-3 years ago.
I can't enjoy this. Unfortunately living up to its name.
$35
Pegau, Chateauneuf du Pape 2004
Deep red.
Delineated, wild nose is difficult to express - blood/iron, grilled herbs, toasted nuts, savory meat, cherry jam, spices that seem to be from new oak (don't think they use any), spicy ketchup. Yes, this rocks.
Round, with a spicy/herb/tomato edge that keeps everything tight. Intense, deep and fleshy, but also simultaneously quite structured, even a bit rustic, and chewy. Huge acid/(stem) tannin structure in the finish amazingly does not kill spicy herb/tomato finish.
This needs lamb in the worst way.
Day 2 - Just ridiculous. Full-bore CdP that is hardly easy, but totally killer. Now this style is one you will absolutely NOT find anywhere else.
Day 4 - Cherry jam and truffle nose, you can smell the saucy density (Amarone-esque). Vibrant, pristine note of rosemary in the finish, which is still chewy/rustic and long. For some reason I finally remembered that Eddie Feraud (see below) and Paul Feraud (Pegau's owner) are related. Cousins, I think. And there is a similarity in the wines too.
$50
Delineated, wild nose is difficult to express - blood/iron, grilled herbs, toasted nuts, savory meat, cherry jam, spices that seem to be from new oak (don't think they use any), spicy ketchup. Yes, this rocks.
Round, with a spicy/herb/tomato edge that keeps everything tight. Intense, deep and fleshy, but also simultaneously quite structured, even a bit rustic, and chewy. Huge acid/(stem) tannin structure in the finish amazingly does not kill spicy herb/tomato finish.
This needs lamb in the worst way.
Day 2 - Just ridiculous. Full-bore CdP that is hardly easy, but totally killer. Now this style is one you will absolutely NOT find anywhere else.
Day 4 - Cherry jam and truffle nose, you can smell the saucy density (Amarone-esque). Vibrant, pristine note of rosemary in the finish, which is still chewy/rustic and long. For some reason I finally remembered that Eddie Feraud (see below) and Paul Feraud (Pegau's owner) are related. Cousins, I think. And there is a similarity in the wines too.
$50
Vacheron, Sancerre 2007
Platinum.
Slightly pungent nose of fresh herbs, nut paste and "minerals". Discreet and fine. Ripe pear late.
Round, with a suggestion of sweetness made quite juicy by good acidity. Pear flavor with fresh herbs on the side. Minerally acidity frames everything, coating the front teeth. Very finely rendered. Long, chewy, mineral and herb finish.
PFG.
$30
Slightly pungent nose of fresh herbs, nut paste and "minerals". Discreet and fine. Ripe pear late.
Round, with a suggestion of sweetness made quite juicy by good acidity. Pear flavor with fresh herbs on the side. Minerally acidity frames everything, coating the front teeth. Very finely rendered. Long, chewy, mineral and herb finish.
PFG.
$30
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Eddie Feraud, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003
Deep red.
Garrigue/spicy ketchup/peanut sauce/kirsch/damp earth/brine/shrimp nose. Jesus.
Very intense entry, some textural sweetness immediately tempered by citrus zest chew reminiscent of Spanish Garnacha. Spicy ketchup in the mouth too, with citrus action taking over quickly. Atypical 2003 CdP - structured and far from opulent - but absolutely loaded. Another crazy wine that rocks. Front teeth coated in iron/stem flavored chew.
Eddie is a stud.
$40
Garrigue/spicy ketchup/peanut sauce/kirsch/damp earth/brine/shrimp nose. Jesus.
Very intense entry, some textural sweetness immediately tempered by citrus zest chew reminiscent of Spanish Garnacha. Spicy ketchup in the mouth too, with citrus action taking over quickly. Atypical 2003 CdP - structured and far from opulent - but absolutely loaded. Another crazy wine that rocks. Front teeth coated in iron/stem flavored chew.
Eddie is a stud.
$40
Alois Lageder "Lindenburg" Lagrein, Alto Adige (Italy) 1997
Purple/red.
Bordeaux-ish nose - oak toast, blackcurrant and spice. Deep and loaded. Seems far younger than it is.
Round and mouth-coating, with serious concentration and acid-enhanced tannic spine. Black fruit, licorice and spice flavors are quite intense, with acidity driving them through significant structural impediments. Is this thing anywhere near its peak? Crazy.
Day 7 - This hasn't shown any improvement, or, more remarkably, any degradation in quality. More pliant in the mouth now. No sign of oxidation. This is not going to improve with additional cellaring, but will drink well for several more years I'd guess.
$25 on release. Lagrein is a grape variety. Never had a bad bottle of this stuff.
Bordeaux-ish nose - oak toast, blackcurrant and spice. Deep and loaded. Seems far younger than it is.
Round and mouth-coating, with serious concentration and acid-enhanced tannic spine. Black fruit, licorice and spice flavors are quite intense, with acidity driving them through significant structural impediments. Is this thing anywhere near its peak? Crazy.
Day 7 - This hasn't shown any improvement, or, more remarkably, any degradation in quality. More pliant in the mouth now. No sign of oxidation. This is not going to improve with additional cellaring, but will drink well for several more years I'd guess.
$25 on release. Lagrein is a grape variety. Never had a bad bottle of this stuff.
Domaine L'Aigueliere "Cote Doree" Montpeyroux (Languedoc) 1996
Deep, dull red. Rust rim.
Huge, expressive, totally French Syrah nose of wilted herbs/greens, smoked ham/bacon/breakfast sausage and toast. Breakfast of champions. Where's the fruit? Who cares?
Round with a sour edge that will annoy many. Wilted greens in the mouth too, with latent smoked meat flavors. No fat whatsoever - taut, lean and intense. No question this will sing with the right food.
$30 on release?
Huge, expressive, totally French Syrah nose of wilted herbs/greens, smoked ham/bacon/breakfast sausage and toast. Breakfast of champions. Where's the fruit? Who cares?
Round with a sour edge that will annoy many. Wilted greens in the mouth too, with latent smoked meat flavors. No fat whatsoever - taut, lean and intense. No question this will sing with the right food.
$30 on release?
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Panther Creek, Auden Vyd, Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir 2003
Deep red.
Toasted nut, savory meat/earth and suave oak spice nose. Crancherry/raspberry coulis underneath. Something here reminds me of Rioja.
Tightly wound and intense in the mouth, with a citrus character dominating. Nice breadth, stopping just short of textural sweetness. Serious acid structure, some might say mineral, cuts into the mid-palate flavor expression. Then the finish kicks in with chewy red fruit. Cranberry. Distinctive, interesting action. No need to drink soon.
Gift - $40?
Toasted nut, savory meat/earth and suave oak spice nose. Crancherry/raspberry coulis underneath. Something here reminds me of Rioja.
Tightly wound and intense in the mouth, with a citrus character dominating. Nice breadth, stopping just short of textural sweetness. Serious acid structure, some might say mineral, cuts into the mid-palate flavor expression. Then the finish kicks in with chewy red fruit. Cranberry. Distinctive, interesting action. No need to drink soon.
Gift - $40?
Monday, June 23, 2008
Chateau de Fonbel, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2005
Purple.
Clay/earth, black raspberry, toast, licorice aromas. Concentrated, but subtle/refined.
Very light impression in the mouth, this will definitely disappoint people used to opulent CA wines. Intense mid-palate flavors of blackcurrant/blackberry and a minerality that attacks the tongue, then migrates to all the teeth. Not at all brutal or rustic, in fact, quite the opposite. Definitely built to improve in the bottle.
This is deepening as it airs.
$25 From the family that owns Ch. Ausone (roughly $1000/btl in 2005)
Clay/earth, black raspberry, toast, licorice aromas. Concentrated, but subtle/refined.
Very light impression in the mouth, this will definitely disappoint people used to opulent CA wines. Intense mid-palate flavors of blackcurrant/blackberry and a minerality that attacks the tongue, then migrates to all the teeth. Not at all brutal or rustic, in fact, quite the opposite. Definitely built to improve in the bottle.
This is deepening as it airs.
$25 From the family that owns Ch. Ausone (roughly $1000/btl in 2005)
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Hartford "Stone Cote Vyd." Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2004
Straw/light yellow.
Tight nose - mineral, light sulphide and a hint of lemon.
Round and slightly sweet initial textural impression, immediately set straight by a relatively strong acid/sulphide, chewy, edge. Caramel, lemon and rock/mineral flavors are intense, but very refined. Caramel and mint on the long, subtle finish.
No question, this is VGS. Pure.
$45
Tight nose - mineral, light sulphide and a hint of lemon.
Round and slightly sweet initial textural impression, immediately set straight by a relatively strong acid/sulphide, chewy, edge. Caramel, lemon and rock/mineral flavors are intense, but very refined. Caramel and mint on the long, subtle finish.
No question, this is VGS. Pure.
$45
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Sportoletti, Rosso, Assisi 2006
Red. Residual CO2 evident.
Red cherry, toasted nut/lava earth aromas.
Quite intense crancherry, iron, mineral action in the mouth. This has decent flesh but also a serious backbone. Acid thrusts tannin onto the front teeth. No way this won't improve with 3-5 years in the bottle.
This must be mostly Sangiovese.
$15
Red cherry, toasted nut/lava earth aromas.
Quite intense crancherry, iron, mineral action in the mouth. This has decent flesh but also a serious backbone. Acid thrusts tannin onto the front teeth. No way this won't improve with 3-5 years in the bottle.
This must be mostly Sangiovese.
$15
Rolf Binder "Heinrich" Barossa Valley 2005
Purple/red.
Black raspberry coulis, earth, licorice and peppermint aromatics.
Round and seamless in the mouth, with a middle-weight feel. Acid tamps down any textural extravagance. Raspberry flavor dominates. Mint flavor kicks in strongly in the finish.
Day 3 - More reticent on the nose now. Earth and some oak spice. Nice depth, though. Round and very creamy in the mouth. Raspberries and cream. Not particularly complex, but quite easy to enjoy.
$25 screwcap. 55% Shiraz, 30% Mataro, 15% Grenache.
Black raspberry coulis, earth, licorice and peppermint aromatics.
Round and seamless in the mouth, with a middle-weight feel. Acid tamps down any textural extravagance. Raspberry flavor dominates. Mint flavor kicks in strongly in the finish.
Day 3 - More reticent on the nose now. Earth and some oak spice. Nice depth, though. Round and very creamy in the mouth. Raspberries and cream. Not particularly complex, but quite easy to enjoy.
$25 screwcap. 55% Shiraz, 30% Mataro, 15% Grenache.
Veritas (Rolf Binder) "Heinrich" Barossa Valley 2001
Red/rust.
Nut, menthol, sea salt aromatics. Meaty/savory fruit underneath. Salami too.
Spherical in the mouth, with a saline/acid edge at the periphery. Menthol, licorice and red fruit flavors melded nicely with light tannin. An unusual inexpensive Aussie - this has actually developed in the bottle.
Day 3 - Huge menthol aromatic action now, with dried fig, cured meat and salt underneath. Still completely mouth-filling with fig, meat and saline flavors.
$20 on release. 40% Shiraz, 40% Mataro (Mourvedre), 20% Grenache.
Nut, menthol, sea salt aromatics. Meaty/savory fruit underneath. Salami too.
Spherical in the mouth, with a saline/acid edge at the periphery. Menthol, licorice and red fruit flavors melded nicely with light tannin. An unusual inexpensive Aussie - this has actually developed in the bottle.
Day 3 - Huge menthol aromatic action now, with dried fig, cured meat and salt underneath. Still completely mouth-filling with fig, meat and saline flavors.
$20 on release. 40% Shiraz, 40% Mataro (Mourvedre), 20% Grenache.
Friday, June 20, 2008
J.J. Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Kabinett 2002
Straw.
Spiced apple, white peach and wax aromas.
Slightly sweet, easy impression of peach/nectarine pit with good acidity (and some residual CO2) keeping things fresh. Light minerality kicks in on the very subtle, but long, finish. Fine flavors of apple/peach/nectarine hang on almost indefinitely. Fine mineral chew lightly coats the front teeth. Delicate stuff - very easy to miss it.
$25
Spiced apple, white peach and wax aromas.
Slightly sweet, easy impression of peach/nectarine pit with good acidity (and some residual CO2) keeping things fresh. Light minerality kicks in on the very subtle, but long, finish. Fine flavors of apple/peach/nectarine hang on almost indefinitely. Fine mineral chew lightly coats the front teeth. Delicate stuff - very easy to miss it.
$25
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Remizieres, Crozes-Hermitage "Cuvee Particuliere" 2005
Deep purple.
Dense nose of cheese (indeed), wilted herbs, spice, black olive and licorice.
Very dense in the mouth, despite a light/middle-weight feel. Grainy/chewy loaded impression in the mouth - reminds me of a
Pax Syrah. Just in alcohol. All licorice in the front teeth-coating finish.
Opened yesterday. Fresher and more delineated then.
$25
Dense nose of cheese (indeed), wilted herbs, spice, black olive and licorice.
Very dense in the mouth, despite a light/middle-weight feel. Grainy/chewy loaded impression in the mouth - reminds me of a
Pax Syrah. Just in alcohol. All licorice in the front teeth-coating finish.
Opened yesterday. Fresher and more delineated then.
$25
Monday, June 16, 2008
Clos Marie "Les Glorieuses" Pic St. Loup (Languedoc) 2004
Purple/red.
Killer nose - cracked pepper, grilled herbs with suggestions of grilled meat, oak toast, potato. Raspberry underneath. This smells like a packed Cote Rotie.
Middle-weight in the mouth, and, again, this reminds me of a super-charged Cote Rotie. Pepper/garrigue/earth/deep raspberry flavors fight through substantial acid-enhanced tannin. No sweetness/fat here. This is loaded, chewy, with a saline density in the finish. Coats every tooth in the mouth with chewy herb action.
Not sure, but I think this is primarily Syrah. Structured, complex, age-worthy.
Day 4 - Still killer on the nose. Round with a N. Rhone-ish sour edge. Still reminds me of killer Cote Rotie. How is this possible in the Languedoc?
$75
Killer nose - cracked pepper, grilled herbs with suggestions of grilled meat, oak toast, potato. Raspberry underneath. This smells like a packed Cote Rotie.
Middle-weight in the mouth, and, again, this reminds me of a super-charged Cote Rotie. Pepper/garrigue/earth/deep raspberry flavors fight through substantial acid-enhanced tannin. No sweetness/fat here. This is loaded, chewy, with a saline density in the finish. Coats every tooth in the mouth with chewy herb action.
Not sure, but I think this is primarily Syrah. Structured, complex, age-worthy.
Day 4 - Still killer on the nose. Round with a N. Rhone-ish sour edge. Still reminds me of killer Cote Rotie. How is this possible in the Languedoc?
$75
Saxum "Bone Rock" James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2004
Deep purple.
Suave, smoky oak, toasted nut sauce, coconut and deep black fruit nose.
Round and quite sweet textural impression buffered by a seemingly balanced acid/tannin synergy which coats the front teeth in "chew". Very slight hint of alcohol, but nothing crazy, and no more than the Copain exhibited. This works. Deep, long and chewy. This also has great tension. Again, this has me thinking Priorat.
15.8% alcohol. Very different approaches to similar fruit, although this is 85% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 3% Grenache.
The Copain seems a bit tame tonight. We'll see ..
Day 4 - Deep and saucy/spicy. A bit abrasive too. Need to blend Copain and Saxum.
$55
Suave, smoky oak, toasted nut sauce, coconut and deep black fruit nose.
Round and quite sweet textural impression buffered by a seemingly balanced acid/tannin synergy which coats the front teeth in "chew". Very slight hint of alcohol, but nothing crazy, and no more than the Copain exhibited. This works. Deep, long and chewy. This also has great tension. Again, this has me thinking Priorat.
15.8% alcohol. Very different approaches to similar fruit, although this is 85% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 3% Grenache.
The Copain seems a bit tame tonight. We'll see ..
Day 4 - Deep and saucy/spicy. A bit abrasive too. Need to blend Copain and Saxum.
$55
Copain, Syrah, James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2004
Purple.
Blue and black fruit, pepper, oak spice and sausage on the nose. Under-stated, deep.
Round and moderately sweet, texturally. Raspberry, earth and spice flavors driven by fairly strong acidity. Flavors coast through, however. Nice tension. I think this will become more expressive in the mouth with bottle-age.
Day 4 - Deep, sausage, nut sauce, earth and pepper nose with black fruit pooled underneath. Structure has moderated considerably, allowing black and blue fruit to express fully. Undoubtedly very good wine, but I still miss the thrill factor from a great site. And I doubt that cellaring will deliver it either.
14.6% alcohol
$45
Blue and black fruit, pepper, oak spice and sausage on the nose. Under-stated, deep.
Round and moderately sweet, texturally. Raspberry, earth and spice flavors driven by fairly strong acidity. Flavors coast through, however. Nice tension. I think this will become more expressive in the mouth with bottle-age.
Day 4 - Deep, sausage, nut sauce, earth and pepper nose with black fruit pooled underneath. Structure has moderated considerably, allowing black and blue fruit to express fully. Undoubtedly very good wine, but I still miss the thrill factor from a great site. And I doubt that cellaring will deliver it either.
14.6% alcohol
$45
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2005
Deep purple.
Clay/earth/nut paste/blackberry custard/oak spice nose. Deeper, but less precise than the 2004.
Huge in the mouth, coating everything with blackberry and spice flavors, with a sneaky citrus note appearing late. This could be mistaken very easily for Ribera del Duero or even Toro. Not complex, but loaded to the hilt. Almost certainly a result of a hotter vintage.
Day 3 - Brighter on the nose - mint and an incense note along with the rest of the gang from day 1. Deep black fruit in the mouth immediately crimped by slightly aggressive tannin. This definitely needs time.
Full-bore, but clearly less refined than the 2004.
$75
Clay/earth/nut paste/blackberry custard/oak spice nose. Deeper, but less precise than the 2004.
Huge in the mouth, coating everything with blackberry and spice flavors, with a sneaky citrus note appearing late. This could be mistaken very easily for Ribera del Duero or even Toro. Not complex, but loaded to the hilt. Almost certainly a result of a hotter vintage.
Day 3 - Brighter on the nose - mint and an incense note along with the rest of the gang from day 1. Deep black fruit in the mouth immediately crimped by slightly aggressive tannin. This definitely needs time.
Full-bore, but clearly less refined than the 2004.
$75
Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2004
Purple.
Egg/custard/earth/clay/toasted nut/grilled meat/coconut aromatics. Deep black raspberry folded underneath.
Round with a slight textural sweetness in the mouth. Ripe, sweet fruit character allied with serious concentration and very fine, packed tannin. Suave, expressive and loaded. No question this needs several years in the bottle to show at its best, but not at all difficult to enjoy now (with real food).
Day 3 - Grilled oak integrated beautifully with black raspberry and earth aromas. Nothing out of place, suave, seamless. There's a mint note here, too. Seamless in the mouth, also, with plentiful fine tannin that does little to restrict flavor flow.
Getting serious citrus action in the very long, chewy finish.
$85, 100% old-vine Tempranillo.
Egg/custard/earth/clay/toasted nut/grilled meat/coconut aromatics. Deep black raspberry folded underneath.
Round with a slight textural sweetness in the mouth. Ripe, sweet fruit character allied with serious concentration and very fine, packed tannin. Suave, expressive and loaded. No question this needs several years in the bottle to show at its best, but not at all difficult to enjoy now (with real food).
Day 3 - Grilled oak integrated beautifully with black raspberry and earth aromas. Nothing out of place, suave, seamless. There's a mint note here, too. Seamless in the mouth, also, with plentiful fine tannin that does little to restrict flavor flow.
Getting serious citrus action in the very long, chewy finish.
$85, 100% old-vine Tempranillo.
Friday, June 6, 2008
La Spinetta "Pin" Monferrato Rosso 2005
Purple/red.
Tight-fisted aromas of deep black fruit (blackberry/prune), clay/earth and oak spice. Pristine, reticent.
Acid-driven black fruit, spice and mineral in the mouth, quite linear in expression (no fat). Intense black fruit and licorice flavors ride through the mid-palate. Not wildly concentrated, but well constructed..
Day 3 - Intense black fruit, earth, shoe polish and spice aromatics - not shy anymore. No doubt about the acid-fruit synergy here. Much more mid-palate flesh today. Very modern style, but it works for me.
$45 (Barbera/Nebbiolo)
Tight-fisted aromas of deep black fruit (blackberry/prune), clay/earth and oak spice. Pristine, reticent.
Acid-driven black fruit, spice and mineral in the mouth, quite linear in expression (no fat). Intense black fruit and licorice flavors ride through the mid-palate. Not wildly concentrated, but well constructed..
Day 3 - Intense black fruit, earth, shoe polish and spice aromatics - not shy anymore. No doubt about the acid-fruit synergy here. Much more mid-palate flesh today. Very modern style, but it works for me.
$45 (Barbera/Nebbiolo)
Reignac, Bordeaux Superior 2005
Opaque purple.
Aromas of clay/earth, black raspberry (both coulis and baked), licorice and a floral note. Deep. No obvious oak, despite 100% new oak aging. With some airtime - pepper and a medicinal nuance.
Round and packed in the mouth. Grainy/chewy. Black fruit and licorice riding through. Not showing any real complexity in the mouth, yet, but for the money this is a killer buy. Sock it away for 4-6 years, or longer.
This is really good action. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Day 3 - Clay/earth/meal, blackberry/black raspberry sauce and licorice aromatics. Extremely concentrated in the mouth, with grainy/chewy tannin. It will be interesting to see how this develops with bottle-age.
$25
Aromas of clay/earth, black raspberry (both coulis and baked), licorice and a floral note. Deep. No obvious oak, despite 100% new oak aging. With some airtime - pepper and a medicinal nuance.
Round and packed in the mouth. Grainy/chewy. Black fruit and licorice riding through. Not showing any real complexity in the mouth, yet, but for the money this is a killer buy. Sock it away for 4-6 years, or longer.
This is really good action. 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Day 3 - Clay/earth/meal, blackberry/black raspberry sauce and licorice aromatics. Extremely concentrated in the mouth, with grainy/chewy tannin. It will be interesting to see how this develops with bottle-age.
$25
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Drylands, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2007
Platinum.
Pungent herb, grapefruit/lemon aromatics.
Intense entry, but lacking flavor drive in the mouth. Mineral/acid chew dominates the finish. Tasty ..
$15
Pungent herb, grapefruit/lemon aromatics.
Intense entry, but lacking flavor drive in the mouth. Mineral/acid chew dominates the finish. Tasty ..
$15
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Villa Maria, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, Marlborough 2006
Platinum.
Pungent asparagus, citrus zest aromas. Pure, bracing.
Intense citrus/asparagus flavors in the mouth and huge, driving, mineral/acid structure. Nice textural (?) sweetness balances structural impact. This deserves its "Reserve" status, as it is NZ SB - squared. Front teeth coated in stony chew.
Day 2 - Similar nose with a nut character emerging. Shows a bit of (welcome) textural sweetness now. Flavor intensity more than matching stony chew. Great, resounding, length.
$28
Pungent asparagus, citrus zest aromas. Pure, bracing.
Intense citrus/asparagus flavors in the mouth and huge, driving, mineral/acid structure. Nice textural (?) sweetness balances structural impact. This deserves its "Reserve" status, as it is NZ SB - squared. Front teeth coated in stony chew.
Day 2 - Similar nose with a nut character emerging. Shows a bit of (welcome) textural sweetness now. Flavor intensity more than matching stony chew. Great, resounding, length.
$28
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills 2005
Light yellow.
Popcorn/truffle/sulfide/meal/lemon nose. Nothing fat or oaky here.
Intense truffle/sulfide, popcorn and lemon flavors with mineral/acid chew. Good length. This reminds me of much more expensive stuff from the Sonoma Coast, even Chablis.
Day 2 - Nut paste/sulfide action on the nose. Broader in the mouth and a bit abrasive too. Still, this provides a great mini-version of far more expensive action.
$20 PFG, especially for the $$.
Popcorn/truffle/sulfide/meal/lemon nose. Nothing fat or oaky here.
Intense truffle/sulfide, popcorn and lemon flavors with mineral/acid chew. Good length. This reminds me of much more expensive stuff from the Sonoma Coast, even Chablis.
Day 2 - Nut paste/sulfide action on the nose. Broader in the mouth and a bit abrasive too. Still, this provides a great mini-version of far more expensive action.
$20 PFG, especially for the $$.
Monday, June 2, 2008
Tablas Creek "Esprit de Beaucastel" Paso Robles 2005
Purple/red.
Deep, complicated nose - tree bark, anise, earth, red cherry jam and a load of spices.
Round with a good dose of textural sweetness (seems higher in alcohol than the 2004), with big red fruit (raspberry and cherry) coupled with a medicinal nuance and huge structure. More tannin here, it seems, than the 2004, with acid every bit as strong. Iron note late. Very young wine.
Day 3 - Not as fresh on the nose as the 2004 (just like day 1) - earthy, Bandol-central action - very deep. Round and sweet in the mouth, little structural impediment now. Light tannin in the finish, and seems to show a bit of heat. An enjoyable hybrid - Beaucastel/Saxum. The 2004 is better, largely because it is seamless, balanced. Never thought I'd say something like that...
$40 (44% Mourvedre, 26% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Counoise, 14.5% listed alcohol)
Deep, complicated nose - tree bark, anise, earth, red cherry jam and a load of spices.
Round with a good dose of textural sweetness (seems higher in alcohol than the 2004), with big red fruit (raspberry and cherry) coupled with a medicinal nuance and huge structure. More tannin here, it seems, than the 2004, with acid every bit as strong. Iron note late. Very young wine.
Day 3 - Not as fresh on the nose as the 2004 (just like day 1) - earthy, Bandol-central action - very deep. Round and sweet in the mouth, little structural impediment now. Light tannin in the finish, and seems to show a bit of heat. An enjoyable hybrid - Beaucastel/Saxum. The 2004 is better, largely because it is seamless, balanced. Never thought I'd say something like that...
$40 (44% Mourvedre, 26% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Counoise, 14.5% listed alcohol)
Tablas Creek "Esprit de Beaucastel" Paso Robles 2004
Deep red.
I'd be very hard-pressed to identify this as CA wine - seamless nose of clay/earth, cherry jam, toasted nut, licorice. Interesting, deep and not at all fruit-driven. No suggestion of alcohol.
Round, mouth-filling - surprisingly fresh flavors of red raspberry, spice and just a hint of earth. Acid-driven tannin clamps down pretty strongly in the finish, but red fruit flavor sails through. Almost saline finish, with a slightly baked fruit character emerging.
Day 3 - Deep, fresh aromas of raspberry and mint, with Bandol-like earth/licorice underneath. Then iron .. Very interesting, effortless, complexity. Nice depth in the mouth, with a grainy impression. Round, well-concentrated, nothing out of balance.
Love to see this again in 6-8 years.
A great contrast in style to other "West-Side" Paso wineries.
$40 (50% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 17% Grenache, 6% Counoise, 14.5% Alcohol listed)
I'd be very hard-pressed to identify this as CA wine - seamless nose of clay/earth, cherry jam, toasted nut, licorice. Interesting, deep and not at all fruit-driven. No suggestion of alcohol.
Round, mouth-filling - surprisingly fresh flavors of red raspberry, spice and just a hint of earth. Acid-driven tannin clamps down pretty strongly in the finish, but red fruit flavor sails through. Almost saline finish, with a slightly baked fruit character emerging.
Day 3 - Deep, fresh aromas of raspberry and mint, with Bandol-like earth/licorice underneath. Then iron .. Very interesting, effortless, complexity. Nice depth in the mouth, with a grainy impression. Round, well-concentrated, nothing out of balance.
Love to see this again in 6-8 years.
A great contrast in style to other "West-Side" Paso wineries.
$40 (50% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 17% Grenache, 6% Counoise, 14.5% Alcohol listed)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
