Friday, November 28, 2008

Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc 2006

Straw/yellow.

Lime flesh, pineapple, nut and earth aromas. Very fresh. Can't remember ever getting lime in CdP Blanc before.

Fresh and lifted in the mouth too. Flavors mirroring nose, with almond paste added and an emphasis on fresh pineapple. "Minerally", chewy finish. Not thick at all. Is this partly a result of a high percentage of Clairette? Long, subtle, chewy finish.


$50

Archery Summit, Pinot Noir "Premier Cuvee" Willamette Valley 2006

Light ruby/red.

Less fruit here, more herb and oak influence on the nose.

Deep, round and plush, with nice acidity. Little, though, in the way of flavor delineation or complexity. I even get some heat (14.2% listed). Also opened yesterday. Showed better then.


Gift - $100?

Archery Summit, Pinot Noir "Arcus Estate" Dundee Hills 2006

Red.

Discreet nose - crancherry, raspberry, herb, subtle oak spice and nut.

Round, with a sweet textural entry. Acidity kicks in on the mid-palate, framing pure red fruit and woodsy flavors. Tightly wound, with acid/tannin synergy cutting into the finish. This was opened yesterday. Showing better now.

Gift - $70?

Sunday, November 23, 2008

FX Pichler, Gruner Veltliner, Kellerberg, Smaragd 2005

Yellow.

Jellied white fruit, lentil, pepper, grapefruit aromas. Very deep, but not precise.

Huge depth in the mouth, with a CO2-like zesty lift in the mouth. Crazy - absolutely FK. Pepper, grapefruit zest, lentil flavors are vivid, huge and long. There has to be RS here, but it's buried in extract/flavor depth. Finishes with a chewy/tannic character that will convert "red only" folks. Shaking my head.

Day 3 - There's a smoky (not from oak) aromatic nuance now. Great depth in the mouth, leavened by citrus zest/mineral chew. Extremely fine palate-impression for something so packed. Pungent, but sweet, grapefruit zest/pepper/lentil finish (very) slowly fades away.

$80

Santa Cruz de Artazu 2004 Navarra (Spain)

Deep red.

Shoe polish, pepper, black raspberry pie-filling, menthol/licorice and brown spice nose.

Round/sweet entry shows a slightly abrasive alcohol/structure synergy. More refined mineral/acid structure shows post mid-palate. Another tightly-wound wine. This will be interesting to watch. I think it will work into its structure and "shake the fun stuff" at some point. But when?

Day 3 - Add a seared meat note to the nose. More integration in the mouth, though alcohol and acid still clash in the finish.


$40, 100% high altitude Garnacha.

Domaine des Escaravailles, Cotes-du-Rhone "Les Sablieres" 2007

Red.

Primary aromas of buttered raspberries and earth. Simple, but very attractive.

Round, with a mineral/acid underpinning. Cherry/raspberry flavors are simple, but pure and reasonably deep. Acidity drives fresh fruit flavors. Use this as a Beaujolais substitute.

Day 3 - More typical southern Rhone aromas - earth and spice now squarely in the picture. Better in the mouth, too, for the same reason. A bit of iron works into the finish. I'd decant this.

$15. Synthetic cork.

Aphillanthes, Cotes-du Rhone Villages "Vieilles Vignes" 2004

Deep red.

Deep, slightly baked nose of red and black cherry, shoe polish and earth.

Deep and sweet (texturally) in the mouth, almost immediately stiffened by strong acidity. High-strung through the finish, but cherry/earth flavors ride it. Reminds me of Priorat and old vine Zinfandel. Very long.

Day 3 - Similar to day 1, but oak contribution a bit more obvious. Acidity hits a bit later. Definitely more old vine Zin in nature.


$25. Rocks.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Muga, Reserva, Rioja 2003

Red.

Coconut, grilled meat, custard, earth and black fruit nose.

Citrus/pepper entry, intense, linear. Concentrated/packed/non-fat. No let up from start to finish. Still chewing citrus/pepper flavor 30+ seconds later. This can only get better with several more years in the bottle.

$25

Conde de Valdemar, Rioja Reserva 2001

Deep red, some rim evolution.

Savory meat stew, oak spice, pepper, earth nose. Expressive, open knit.

Round, middle-weight entry, acid-dominant. No fat. Intensely flavored - tight-fisted red cherry, earth, iron. Long, lean finish. Cherry pit finish coats the front teeth. Foodies will love this.

$25. VGS

Torremoron, Ribera del Duero "Tempranillo" 2006

Red/purple.

Oak spice, earth, grilled steak nose.

Round, full, citrus/pepper entry. Acid constriction shuts down the mid-palate to some extent, but also drives citrus/pepper flavor well into the finish. Definitely chewy, but not crazy. This has real character and depth for something so cheap.

Love the name. Give this to someone that loves fruit-driven, confectionary wines. You'll never hear from them again.

$15. Synthetic cork.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Chateau de Fonbel, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Red/purple.

Toasted nut, grilled meat, restrained nose.

Intensely flavored - with mineral chew really taking over the mouth and shutting down the front teeth. Iron note late in the finish. This isn't singing. Can't even make a guttural noise at the moment. Seems far more closed than a bottle several months ago.

$25

Chateau Corbin, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Purple/red.

Deep, integrated nose - black fruit, toasted nut, earth, herbs ... Suave, not obliterated by new oak.

Similar easy, fluid flavor flow - adds a pepper note in the mouth. Structure builds into the finish, coating the side teeth in mineral/tannic chew. Probably best over the next 5-7 years. Could drink quite a bit of this.

$28

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Chateau Clarke, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux 2005

Opaque purple/red.

Toast, coconut, black fruit, clay/earth.

Deep, sweet black raspberry flavor front and center, earth and spice notes follow. Middle-weight, but very, very good density. Coconut kicks in on the finish. Reasonably fine structure hits the front teeth without disrupting flavor flow. This needs 4-5 years and should drink well for several more after that.

Nice stuff.

$28

Monday, November 10, 2008

Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure "Puig Oriol" 2005

Deep red.

Deep, but middle-weight, aromas of black cherry/raspberry liqueur, earth and licorice.

Texturally, enveloping sweetness of raspberry jam, mineral and earth flavors. Difficult to differentiate between structure and flavor here. Great depth of liqueur-like fruit and balancing mineral/tannic backbone.

Stupid value. Mostly Grenache from the (eastern) coastal area just north of the Spanish border.

Day 4 - Still beautiful, long. Great flavor/structure tension and "interplay" (Schildknecht-ism). It is ridiculous that you can buy this for $25.

$25

Montebuena, Rioja 2005

Red.

Earth, toast, souffle, cran/raspberry nose. Light intensity, pure.

Pepper/earth/cranberry flavors are zesty and fresh. Completely acid-dominant structure. Tasty stuff, true to the territory.
Long, lean citrus/cranberry finish.

Talk about a turkey match... Cheap to boot.

$14

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Breton, Chinon (Cabernet Franc, Loire Valley) "Beaumont" 2005

Opaque purple.

Aromas of toast, Bordeaux weeds/grilled asparagus and blackcurrant. Very concentrated.

Quite intensely flavored, with blackcurrant, chalk/mineral front and center. Low alcohol obvious (listed at 12%), lightweight but packed with flavor. Acidity drives the chalky/tannic structural impression in the mouth. Very classy overall impression.

Roasted game bird, anyone?

$22, synthetic cork. Too bad, as this would age well under screwcap.

Julia Roch e Hilos "Las Gravas" Jumilla 2003

Deep red/purple.

Deep, saucy, nose - fig/prune/raspberry jam, earth/hay, grilled meat.

Round entry with a strong mineral/acid/tannin edge that blunts mid-palate flavor. The odd hay note persists. I'm not sure where this is headed. Impressive raw material, but the extraction seems excessive.

Mostly Monastrell (?)

$20

Friday, November 7, 2008

Scholium Project "The Prince in His Caves" (Sauv. Blanc) 2006

Yellow.

Sweet pea, maple syrup nose. Deep, sweet (seeming).

Thick palate impression - sweet pea flavor then a strange saline character that is, despite its individuality, off-putting.
This tastes very much like wines of mine in the late 90s that had depth but no clarity of flavor. Much "older" than the vintage would suggest, with little complexity to recommend it.

S.Blanc fermented on the skins, to some extent. I'm not sure what I paid for this, but it was too much.

$?

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Domaine Courbis, Cornas "La Sabarotte" 2003

Very deep red.

Licorice and suave, oak, hazelnut. Hint of menthol. Reminds me a bit of certain CA Syrahs.

Dense/packed in the mouth, burly, in fact. Licorice and some sulphide (coffee/skunk) action. Then a wall of acid-driven tannin flushes any flavor clean out of the mouth. This will be interesting to watch. Will it ever shake the fun stuff?

Day 4 - Menthol/licorice action still reminds me of CA cool, coastal, Syrah. Much better flesh in the mouth, with flavors echoing nose. In fact, this isn't showing any intrusive structural element at all.

$65

Hecht & Bannier, Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2003

Deep red.

Iron, herb, game, iodine-funkadelic nose is not as crazy as it sounds. But I can't think of too many other areas this could have come from. There's some chocolate/red fruit here, just buried.

Iron/herb action shows up in the mouth too. Taut structure, reminds me of the N. Rhone. No fat at all, with just a hint of Grenache sweetness. Fun stuff, and way better than it should be $$-wise. I'd guess this will drink very well with real food for at least 4-6 more years. Maybe much longer.

Predominantly Grenache (apparently) with Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah.

$18

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Craggy Range, Sauvignon Blanc, Te Muna Vyd (NZ) 2008

Water/platinum.

Typical NZ SB nose, but a bit less pungent.

Ditto in the mouth. Deeper than usual, with a definite, ripe, kiwi/peach note. Nice mineral/herb chew on the finish. Still, I miss the vibrant, slap to the face character I love in most of these wines.

$22

Monday, November 3, 2008

Bouissiere, Gigondas 2005

Red/purple.

Not as flashy as the Grand Romane on the nose, but deeper where it counts. In the raw material department. Very deep, black nose - earth, licorice with a deep Grenache raspberry liqueur note buried.

Great sweetness and peppery depth in the mouth. Shows a bit of alcohol in the mid-palate, but I don't care. The chewy/spicy driving action here is the real deal. This makes both the other Gigondas look like popcorn fart airheads. Packed and "painfully intense" (Tanzerism).

FK

$45

Domaine Grand Romane (Pierre Amadieu) "Cuvee Prestige" Gigondas 2005

Deep red.

Deep nose shows some very well-integrated oak influence. Black fruit, toasted oak nuts, truffle/earth and a meaty note.

Packed, plush and a bit jammy with a welcome pepper nuance kicking off, with garrigue and dark fruit taking over. More serious structure here, but the flavor intensity more than makes up for it.

VGS. 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 15 % Syrah

All new oak here (back label)

$25

Domaine Carobelle (Vignerons de Caractere), Gigondas 2005

Red.

Cranberry jam, earth, shrimp shell nose.

Round and packed with cranberry jam fruit. Big mid-palate with acid-driven structure providing some chew in the finish. Very nice action, just lacks complexity.

$18

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Olazabal "Meandro do Vale Meao" Douro (Portugal) 2005

Red/purple.

More expressive than the 2004 on the nose - pepper/licorice/menthol - reminds me of a Pax Syrah.

Similar in the mouth. Not nearly as deep as the '04, but more finely rendered. Wow, what a cool set of wines from the same producer. These guys know how to adjust to vintage variation - take an outside pitch to the opposite field. I'll be buying more of both.

$40

Olazabal "Meandro do Vale Meao" Douro (Portugal) 2004

Deep purple.

Toast, grilled meat, deep blackberry and earth nose. Killer, savory.

Packed in the mouth, non-fat, totally loaded, without any sense of heavy-handed extraction. Holy shit, this is good. Pepper, blackberry ... backed up by serious, but well-judged, acid-driven structure.

Totally killer action. Needs a few more years in the bottle.

Tinta Roriz (tempranillo), Tourigas Nacional and Franca, and Tintas Amarela and Barroca.

$35

Mas des Dames, Coteaux du Languedoc 2005

Purple/red.

Earth, shoe polish, licorice, herb and black fruit aromas. Very nice depth.

Intense, obviously southern French (don't ask me why - can't articulate) entry. More gamy/earthy (nothing crazy though) than Spanish action only slightly south. Stinky French? Maybe, but complexity has many manifestations. I'm buying more, to cellar.

50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah.

Day 3 - Very well-made, with game/Brett character well in hand. Structure is slightly grainy, but supports without being intrusive. Very enjoyable, interesting and should be great with real food.


$18