Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2004

Straw.

Discreet, pure nose. Lemon, stone, light sulfide and caramel.

Packed in the mouth in a way that is difficult to describe - simultaneously fat, ripped, sweet (texturally) and mildly chewy/tannic. Lemon custard/creme caramel flavors both restrained and flagrant, as long as anything I've had in the last year or more. And that would be another wine from Marcassin. Absolutely FK. Power without weight - Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume" in spades.

$85. Stupidly great, and this isn't their best action.