Saturday, September 15, 2007

Chateau de Fonsalette, Cotes-du-Rhone, Syrah 1993

Deep red, rust rim.

Earth, smoke, grilled herbs (was wilted greens when opened 2 hours ago), candied cherry/black fruit and brick aromas. Smells a bit like old Bordeaux, but has many other things going on too. Getting cinnamon now ...

Plush entry, then grainy, slightly coarse tannin makes an appearance. Wilted greens, bacon and a blood/iron note. Still chewy, hitting the front teeth.

1993 was a terrible vintage in the Rhone - never know it from this (my last) bottle. Stupidly good.

$30?

Sea Smoke, Pinot Noir, "Southing", Santa Rita Hills 2005

Bright red.

Bright red cherry/cranberry, floral, citrus, meal and suave oak spice aromas.

Intense, spicy red fruit entry - very much a racy middle-weight. Shows a touch of heat (14.7%). Acidity keeps flavors under wraps right now, but I'm sure this will expand in the mouth with cellar time. Very classy, perfumed stuff.

Day 4 - Additional fruit depth today, along with a suggestion of strawberry coulis. Alcohol still intrudes on the back end.
I'd guess this will integrate with another 3-5 years in the bottle.



$65

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2004

Light yellow.

Hints of pear, apple and meal on the nose.

Deep, sweet textural impression that is buffered simultaneously by mineral/acid chew.Hard to figure out what the flavors are - straw, smoky, unripe pear? The main focus is the textural impression of glycerin and acid/rock chew that doesn't seem to end.

This must be all, or mostly, Marsanne.

$27

Vinos Sin Ley, G-5 Garnacha, Puerta Bonita 2005 (Vinos de Madrid)

Deep red.

Reticent nose of raspberry/cherry liqueur and a loam/soil character.

Sweet textural impression, with raspberry/cherry front and center allied with a minerally structure that reminds me of stuff from Templeton Gap/Westside Paso Robles. No real complexity here, but it's very tasty, with very good length of flavor.

Synthetic cork (2-3 year death sentence).

$15

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Tardieu-Laurent, Rasteau, V.V., 2000

Purple/red.

Tarry oak spices, cola, black raspberry, garrigue and slightly medicinal aromas.

Deep and plush, initially, in the mouth. Broad and deeply flavored, with major structure (teeth-coating tannin) arriving late.

Not sure where this is headed - more giving fruit a couple of years ago?

$30

Noellat, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru, "Les Beaux Monts" 1999

Red.

Nuts, grilled herbs and a hint of citrus on the nose.

Vibrant, lifted citrus blossom/zest in the mouth. Light bodied, but loaded. Slight note of iron. Acid-driven structure hits sides of the teeth. This was actually opened yesterday - seems far fresher today.

A beauty.

$40

Feudi di San Gregorio, Piano di Monte Vergine, Taurasi 1999

Opaque purple/red.

Charry, embers, sawn redwood nose. I don't think this is entirely from new oak. Idiosyncratic, but very deep.

Earthy, spicy, woodfire character repeats, front and center, in the mouth. Has great breadth and flavor impact. There's a primal black fruit aspect that I can't come close to identifying. Long, chewy finish. Tannin has an edgy quality that will be off-putting to many in this day and age.

Generally speaking, this is a wake-up call to New World, easy drinking folks. They will want to hate this, but there is simply too much going on not to love the stuff.

All Aglianico, a variety to be reckoned with.

$60