Monday, June 25, 2007

Prager "Bodenstein" Riesling Smaragd 2004 (Austria)

Pale yellow.

Some CO2 evolution masking nose a bit. Grapefruit and a (hazel?)nut note.

Pure and racy in the mouth, with a bit of RS slightly taming the acid/mineral chew in the very long, stony finish. A bit severe now, but citrus zest flavor rides through the entire experience.

From a little-known site. Apparently nobody thought anything could ripen at this altitude (400 meters), but Prager's son-in-law (Bodenstein) proved them wrong.

Day 4 - Poached pear and lemon flesh now. Deeply flavored, and a bit oxidative too (as should be expected). Still stony in the finish. This will drink well for many years.


$40?

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Pax "Venus" Bennett Valley (Sonoma) 2005

Pale yellow.

Nose of straw and unripe, spicy, peppery pear. Is this quince (never tried it)? A notion of custard too.

Huge, broad palate-impact, almost Marsanne-like in the way it takes over the mouth. Spicy/chewy structural component cuts right through it, however, to provide great counterweight. Long spicy/chewy finish. I think a sulfide edge contributes here too.

I hated my first bottle of this wine about six months ago, but either I was whacked or the wine just needed time.

This was opened yesterday.

From Pax's newsletter - this has a pH over 4 (which means no effective acidity) and is 100% Roussanne. 13.8% alcohol

Killer.

$45?

Mas Doix "Salanques" 2003 Priorat (Spain)

Bright red.

Nose tells you this is (probably) Garnacha-based - spicy red cherry/raspberry, earth, cinnamon and a lifted mint note.
Pure and nuanced.

Garnacha sweetness in the mouth too, at least initially. Loads of red fruit/liqueur before acid-driven structure rolls in like a wave. Tannin hits late. Amazingly, red fruit character survives and continues into the long, subtle finish.


Mas Doix' 2nd wine.

$40

Julia Roch e Hilos "Las Gravas" Jumilla 2000

Deep red/purple, some rim evolution.

Packed, dense nose - shoe polish, earth/brick, and very spicy blackberry/black cherry and black olive.

Relatively expansive entry, then structure clamps down in mid-palate. Everything about this wine is intense, much like the "Mira" 2000 bottling blogged earlier. But this is more expressive. Best with lamb stew.

70% un-grafted Monastrell on gravel, 15% each Cabernet and Syrah.

This was opened yesterday.

$22

Friday, June 22, 2007

Copain "Madder Lake" Lake County Syrah 2004

Deep purple/red.

Menthol, licorice and Gouda nose.

Plush entry immediately tempered by gripping stem tannin. Intense, but quite bound up. There's black fruit underneath the structure, but seen intermittently, in and out of the fog.

Again, this is an interesting style. This is full of aromatic and (potential) flavor life, but has almost no acidity (so I read - pHs in the 4.0 range). Stem inclusion adds a lift to the aromatics and an impression of acidity that isn't there (or is the TA high too).

A whopping 14.2% alcohol.

Lake County itself is an interesting place. A CA region with altitude and tannic density.

$25

Laderas de Pinoso "El Seque" Alicante, Spain 1999

Deep red.

Clay, toast, black olive, dried fig and spice aromatics.

Intense spicy entry, then bound up with chewy (front teeth) tannin that drowns out mid-palate flavor.
Mostly Monastrell (Mourvedre) from the guy who also owns Artadi in Rioja.

This is a good candidate for extra air time.

Day 5 - This has integrated beautifully, structure still there, but in the background. Slow-roasted meat, figs and spice.


$20

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Marcassin Marcassin Vyd. Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2001

Dull red.

Aromatic stew - oak spice, slow-roasted meat and earth with red cherry and red licorice underneath.

Mouth-coating creaminess that is quickly cut short by aggressive acidity. Tannin is light. Overall impression is that this doesn't have the flamboyant complexity or concentrated core of the best bottlings of this wine.

Air may help, but I doubt it.

$100