Marcassin "Zio Tony Ranch" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2004

Straw/yellow.

Caramel, sea salt, creme brulee, lemon nose.

Deep, loaded, palate-impression shows some heat. Huge mineral impact on the front teeth. It is interesting - these wines are routinely attacked for being "out of control", "too big"- you name it. The fact is that they demonstrate a massive investment in vineyard management/attention to detail that their detractors don't have the guts/will to match. You don't get this depth of flavor solely from barrels or "over-ripe" fruit, not to mention sitting on your butt.

But I digress - massive, yet restrained, mineral, caramel, salty/briny, lemon chew. Huge mid-palate. Don't mistake a lack of concentration for "purity". The vinous equivalent of "show me the money"? - "show me the concentration/guts".. But that's where the tough stuff starts.

$80