I opened this over the weekend for sampling, for fun.
Deep, plush and sweet - very much in the style of Marquis-Philips. This seems to show mush less oak, though. Maybe a switch to European/French.
The real point, however, is that I tested several recent wines for pH:
Two Hand's Samantha's 2004 = 3.48 pH
Greenock Creek Alice's 2001 = 3.46 pH
Copain Hawk's Butte 2003 = 3.76 pH
Feudi Serpico 2003 = 3.41 pH
Boarding Pass (above) = 3.50 pH
Obviously, there is a world of difference between Copain and the Aussies. You'd expect the Serpico to have a low pH as it is based on Aglianico (but the real point is that the wine "feels" natural). It's the Aussie wines that are the most interesting to dissect. Greenock and Two Hands have a dis-jointed feel in the mouth, their sweetness/roundness don't correlate well with their finishing structure. Boarding Pass does "pass". Even though it's pH is roughly similar, there is a great deal more "flesh" to buffer it's structure. Undoubtedly R Wines uses micro-oxygenation to add flesh/round the tannin.
I have to wonder about the degree of acidulation in all three Aussie wines. But one of them makes it work. I have serious doubts about the other two.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Domaine du Mas Blanc "Clos du Moulin" Collioure 2004
Very deep red.
Clay, cranberry, earth, spice nose. Deep, intense. Raspberry liqueur late.
Structure, fine-grained, hits immediately, framing slightly sweet, middle-weight flavors of cherry/earth/clay. This is considerably deeper than the Junquets. Good length, with significant chew. Absolutely no fat here.
Day 4 - Deep earth/clay, mocha component on the nose, fruit underneath. There's a lightness on the palate that is easily confused (I think I was guilty of this) with a lack of depth/concentration. Very nice mid-palate flesh, with earth and fruit flavors riding through lightly tannic finish. Something ethereal about the way the flavor "hangs" in the mouth. Light and long, very unusual.
$35
Clay, cranberry, earth, spice nose. Deep, intense. Raspberry liqueur late.
Structure, fine-grained, hits immediately, framing slightly sweet, middle-weight flavors of cherry/earth/clay. This is considerably deeper than the Junquets. Good length, with significant chew. Absolutely no fat here.
Day 4 - Deep earth/clay, mocha component on the nose, fruit underneath. There's a lightness on the palate that is easily confused (I think I was guilty of this) with a lack of depth/concentration. Very nice mid-palate flesh, with earth and fruit flavors riding through lightly tannic finish. Something ethereal about the way the flavor "hangs" in the mouth. Light and long, very unusual.
$35
Domaine du Mas Blanc "Junquets" Collioure 2004
Deep red.
Clay and a dominant brine character on the nose. Round.
Middle-weight, seems to lack flesh/concentration, but decent flavor length. Acid/tannin synergy kicks in on the finish.
Day 4 - Wild clove (Lisa says incense) nose now, brine as a sideshow. Even a bit of earth and salami. Very round and mouth-filling now, with clove, salami and earth repeating in the mouth. More obvious structure than the Moulin, or is it less flesh to balance acid/tannin synergy? But the flavors ride through it all, with an ethereal length like the Moulin. I think I clearly under-estimated these wines.
$30
Clay and a dominant brine character on the nose. Round.
Middle-weight, seems to lack flesh/concentration, but decent flavor length. Acid/tannin synergy kicks in on the finish.
Day 4 - Wild clove (Lisa says incense) nose now, brine as a sideshow. Even a bit of earth and salami. Very round and mouth-filling now, with clove, salami and earth repeating in the mouth. More obvious structure than the Moulin, or is it less flesh to balance acid/tannin synergy? But the flavors ride through it all, with an ethereal length like the Moulin. I think I clearly under-estimated these wines.
$30
Eddie Feraud, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004
Vibrant red.
Lifted, even pungent, nose - resin/garrigue/sauteed meat/kirsch/peanut sauce. Deep, killer nose.
Similar, vibrant, character in the mouth. Tight and a bit linear, but pure, powerful flavor rides through. Long and chewy.
Exciting stuff.
Day 4 - Peanut/earth, garrigue/herb liqueur on the nose. Restrained, expansive, textural sweetness in the mouth. "Acid"/stem chew immediately apparent. Nicely balanced tug-of-war. Flavors and structural chew battle throughout, very long, very satisfying.
$35
Lifted, even pungent, nose - resin/garrigue/sauteed meat/kirsch/peanut sauce. Deep, killer nose.
Similar, vibrant, character in the mouth. Tight and a bit linear, but pure, powerful flavor rides through. Long and chewy.
Exciting stuff.
Day 4 - Peanut/earth, garrigue/herb liqueur on the nose. Restrained, expansive, textural sweetness in the mouth. "Acid"/stem chew immediately apparent. Nicely balanced tug-of-war. Flavors and structural chew battle throughout, very long, very satisfying.
$35
Les Cailloux Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Dull rust/red.
Lifted, complex nose - red cherry liqueur, garrigue/wilted greens, iron, earth, pepper and great, savory meat and spice notes.
Light-medium bodied. Iron/cherry/earth in the mouth, slightly chewy tannin. Very good, seamless length.
Day 4 - Lower-toned on the nose now - wilted greens, savory meat, oak spice. Extremely round now, even a bit of textural sweetness. Flavors a bit muddied, with acid/tannin synergy cutting into finish. This bottling always seems very lightly extracted and best, usually, on days 1 & 2.
$28
Lifted, complex nose - red cherry liqueur, garrigue/wilted greens, iron, earth, pepper and great, savory meat and spice notes.
Light-medium bodied. Iron/cherry/earth in the mouth, slightly chewy tannin. Very good, seamless length.
Day 4 - Lower-toned on the nose now - wilted greens, savory meat, oak spice. Extremely round now, even a bit of textural sweetness. Flavors a bit muddied, with acid/tannin synergy cutting into finish. This bottling always seems very lightly extracted and best, usually, on days 1 & 2.
$28
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Copain "Hawks Butte" Syrah 2003 (Yorkville Highlands)
Deep purple.
Oak toast, breakfast sausage, wilted greens. Deep and food-filled nose, in complete contrast to the preceding two wines.
Round and completely mouth-filling with no sweetness whatsoever. Packed and grainy in the mouth, as usual for Copain, with chewy, but relatively unobtrusive tannin. Very natural "feel" on the palate, again, in complete contrast to the preceding wines.
Real aromatic, retronasal, stuff going on. Smoky, meaty, tangy ..
Day 3 - Little change aromatically, just a bit more open. Smells like food. You also get the immediate impression that this wine hasn't been subjected to weird acid and/or tannin additions. Naturalness - what a concept. And the palate confirms this. Deep, round and plush from start to finish. A bit of tannic chew kicks in late. Is there any fruit here? Is fruit food?
$40
Oak toast, breakfast sausage, wilted greens. Deep and food-filled nose, in complete contrast to the preceding two wines.
Round and completely mouth-filling with no sweetness whatsoever. Packed and grainy in the mouth, as usual for Copain, with chewy, but relatively unobtrusive tannin. Very natural "feel" on the palate, again, in complete contrast to the preceding wines.
Real aromatic, retronasal, stuff going on. Smoky, meaty, tangy ..
Day 3 - Little change aromatically, just a bit more open. Smells like food. You also get the immediate impression that this wine hasn't been subjected to weird acid and/or tannin additions. Naturalness - what a concept. And the palate confirms this. Deep, round and plush from start to finish. A bit of tannic chew kicks in late. Is there any fruit here? Is fruit food?
$40
Greenock Creek "Alices" Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2001
Purple/red.
High-toned aromas of toasted nut, grilled steak, pepper and earth.
Deep and fairly sweet texture. Acid seems to be the dominant structural force, with high alcohol reinforcing it. Pure black raspberry/earth/nut flavors, but, strangely, disjointed in the mid-palate. This doesn't flow and, currently, delivers no pleasure. Does this need time? Or was it best several years ago?
Day 3 - Nuts and a saline nuance on the nose with pure raspberry in the background. Plush, deep and sweet in the mouth, with moderate, slightly grainy tannin and an acid constriction that really cuts into the finish. This obviously had great raw material, but I'm not a fan of the winemaking regimen.
$90
High-toned aromas of toasted nut, grilled steak, pepper and earth.
Deep and fairly sweet texture. Acid seems to be the dominant structural force, with high alcohol reinforcing it. Pure black raspberry/earth/nut flavors, but, strangely, disjointed in the mid-palate. This doesn't flow and, currently, delivers no pleasure. Does this need time? Or was it best several years ago?
Day 3 - Nuts and a saline nuance on the nose with pure raspberry in the background. Plush, deep and sweet in the mouth, with moderate, slightly grainy tannin and an acid constriction that really cuts into the finish. This obviously had great raw material, but I'm not a fan of the winemaking regimen.
$90
Two Hands "Samantha's Garden" Shiraz, Clare Valley 2004
Deep red.
Earth, spice, black olive, raspberry and toasted nut.
Round, not sweet, with a lean, acid-edged structure that does not kill raspberry/earth flavors. Nicely constructed, tasty wine with very good mid-palate flesh and flavor.
Day 3 - Much more harmonious nose - earth/meat/cola/oak spice. Round and expansive in the mouth, with a bit of acid/tannin synergy framing the mid-palate and finish. Good, but not great, stuff.
$40
Earth, spice, black olive, raspberry and toasted nut.
Round, not sweet, with a lean, acid-edged structure that does not kill raspberry/earth flavors. Nicely constructed, tasty wine with very good mid-palate flesh and flavor.
Day 3 - Much more harmonious nose - earth/meat/cola/oak spice. Round and expansive in the mouth, with a bit of acid/tannin synergy framing the mid-palate and finish. Good, but not great, stuff.
$40
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Feudi di San Gregorio, "Serpico", Irpinia (Italy) 2003
Deep red.
That wild "lava" thing again (it actually is reminiscent of pumice) on the nose.Then red and blackberry, oregano/basil, and redwood. More open than the 2001, but not deeper. Could smell this all day.
Tight, sawn redwood, initial mouth-impression. Considerably easier, though, than the 2001, and not nearly as packed. Nevertheless, this is a very good intro to Aglianico made in a modern style. But hardly a wine you need to drink soon. I'd give this 5 years in the bottle.
Opened yesterday
Day 4 - Huge lava/redwood nose. Totally idiosyncratic/crazy. Extremely intense and bound up in the mouth - this has toughened up with air. And then some. Drink this with charred lamb fat if you're popping the cork soon.
Gift - $70?
That wild "lava" thing again (it actually is reminiscent of pumice) on the nose.Then red and blackberry, oregano/basil, and redwood. More open than the 2001, but not deeper. Could smell this all day.
Tight, sawn redwood, initial mouth-impression. Considerably easier, though, than the 2001, and not nearly as packed. Nevertheless, this is a very good intro to Aglianico made in a modern style. But hardly a wine you need to drink soon. I'd give this 5 years in the bottle.
Opened yesterday
Day 4 - Huge lava/redwood nose. Totally idiosyncratic/crazy. Extremely intense and bound up in the mouth - this has toughened up with air. And then some. Drink this with charred lamb fat if you're popping the cork soon.
Gift - $70?
Monday, January 21, 2008
Vietti Barbera d'Alba "Scarrone Vigna Vecchia" 2004
Purple/red.
Oak spice, clay/earth - deep and plush. Black fruit and something balsamic underneath. Sumptuous. Reminds a bit of a great Pin bottling from La Spinetta.
Round and mouth-filling, acidity fairly strong, but very much in the background. Interesting textural duality in the mouth that is blatantly obvious. Where else do you get this kind of purity - aroma/texture/flavor?
The Italians are ripping it up (probably have been for a decade, but I'm a bit slow). Opened yesterday.
Day 4 - Even shows a hint of banana on the nose now. Balsamic action still there, as is everything else. Very good, but not quite as thrilling as I originally thought.
$75
Oak spice, clay/earth - deep and plush. Black fruit and something balsamic underneath. Sumptuous. Reminds a bit of a great Pin bottling from La Spinetta.
Round and mouth-filling, acidity fairly strong, but very much in the background. Interesting textural duality in the mouth that is blatantly obvious. Where else do you get this kind of purity - aroma/texture/flavor?
The Italians are ripping it up (probably have been for a decade, but I'm a bit slow). Opened yesterday.
Day 4 - Even shows a hint of banana on the nose now. Balsamic action still there, as is everything else. Very good, but not quite as thrilling as I originally thought.
$75
Friday, January 18, 2008
Caprai "Collepiano" Sangrantino di Montefalco 2003
Red/purple.
Packed, vibrant nose of red and black cherry, sausage, basil, iodine ... Can't keep up as it airs.
Extremely intense/linear in the mouth, with huge, acid-driven, tannic clout. But there's a great deal of mid-palate flesh to battle the embedded structure. Ultimately, it's obvious that many years are needed, but this really isn't all that difficult to drink right now, assuming a corpulent (dead) animal is on the table.
Intense and pure - tough to beat that combination.
Day 4 - Nose even more fruit-filled now, red cherry and raspberry. Still pure and precise. Structure hits a bit later. Packed, yet accessible.
Day 5 - Holy shit on a stick - what a ridiculous value in great wine.
$45
Packed, vibrant nose of red and black cherry, sausage, basil, iodine ... Can't keep up as it airs.
Extremely intense/linear in the mouth, with huge, acid-driven, tannic clout. But there's a great deal of mid-palate flesh to battle the embedded structure. Ultimately, it's obvious that many years are needed, but this really isn't all that difficult to drink right now, assuming a corpulent (dead) animal is on the table.
Intense and pure - tough to beat that combination.
Day 4 - Nose even more fruit-filled now, red cherry and raspberry. Still pure and precise. Structure hits a bit later. Packed, yet accessible.
Day 5 - Holy shit on a stick - what a ridiculous value in great wine.
$45
Zichichi Family Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley 2005
Deep purple.
Black raspberry/cream-cheese pastry, clay/earth and a hint of fresh herbs on the nose. Particularly refined and complex for PS.
Round, creamy and mouth-filling, with reasonably fine-grained tannin, slowly, edging its way into the mouth. This is not at all a wildly concentrated PS, but it wins major style points. Acidity ultimately intrudes in the finish. Exactly the kind of wine that will appeal to those that think PS is too tannic.
Very suave winemaking.
Gift - $35?
Black raspberry/cream-cheese pastry, clay/earth and a hint of fresh herbs on the nose. Particularly refined and complex for PS.
Round, creamy and mouth-filling, with reasonably fine-grained tannin, slowly, edging its way into the mouth. This is not at all a wildly concentrated PS, but it wins major style points. Acidity ultimately intrudes in the finish. Exactly the kind of wine that will appeal to those that think PS is too tannic.
Very suave winemaking.
Gift - $35?
Santa Rita "Triple C" Maipo Valley (Chile) 2004
Opaque purple/red.
Deep blackberry, spearmint, clay/earth, and heavy toast oak aromas. Smells packed.
Utterly round and mouthfilling, with great flesh riding all the way through the finish. Tannin shows a slight rusticity. Deep black fruit and earth flavors also show a green note which adds interest. Chewy, flavorful finish. Not at all dominated by its oak component.
55% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carmenere
Seriously good action.
$30?
Deep blackberry, spearmint, clay/earth, and heavy toast oak aromas. Smells packed.
Utterly round and mouthfilling, with great flesh riding all the way through the finish. Tannin shows a slight rusticity. Deep black fruit and earth flavors also show a green note which adds interest. Chewy, flavorful finish. Not at all dominated by its oak component.
55% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carmenere
Seriously good action.
$30?
Friday, January 11, 2008
Alban, Roussanne, Edna Valley 2005 (Estate)
Light yellow.
Deep, yet reticent fruit character - pear/apricot/peach - with smoky,spicy oak as a background. Slight sulfide edge.
Huge apricot/peach sweetness in the mouth reminds me of Viognier to some extent, but then there is an impression of massive restraint (acidity and phenolic chew) beginning in the mid-palate. But this "chew" slows the flavor flow, rather than killing it. There is some heat (16.1%), a bit abrasive in the finish.
As well balanced as a 16% alcohol, dry white (I think this is unfiltered, slight haze) can be. But the case for residual sugar to balance alcohol is a strong one. Nevertheless, you have to tip your hat to John for going balls out. Love it or leave it.
What a contrast in style - Forgeron/Alban.
Day 3 - Smoky oak shows a bit more, but alcohol is correspondingly better integrated. Huge fruit sweetness, still, in the mouth, balanced pretty well by minerally acid action. Nevertheless, still shows a disjointed/unpleasant burn.
I hate to sound like an alco-phobe, but this is extremely difficult to enjoy on anything more than a theoretical basis.
$50?
Deep, yet reticent fruit character - pear/apricot/peach - with smoky,spicy oak as a background. Slight sulfide edge.
Huge apricot/peach sweetness in the mouth reminds me of Viognier to some extent, but then there is an impression of massive restraint (acidity and phenolic chew) beginning in the mid-palate. But this "chew" slows the flavor flow, rather than killing it. There is some heat (16.1%), a bit abrasive in the finish.
As well balanced as a 16% alcohol, dry white (I think this is unfiltered, slight haze) can be. But the case for residual sugar to balance alcohol is a strong one. Nevertheless, you have to tip your hat to John for going balls out. Love it or leave it.
What a contrast in style - Forgeron/Alban.
Day 3 - Smoky oak shows a bit more, but alcohol is correspondingly better integrated. Huge fruit sweetness, still, in the mouth, balanced pretty well by minerally acid action. Nevertheless, still shows a disjointed/unpleasant burn.
I hate to sound like an alco-phobe, but this is extremely difficult to enjoy on anything more than a theoretical basis.
$50?
Forgeron Cellars, Roussanne, Columbia Valley 2006
Straw.
Bright apple/pear aromas, slightly spicy. No oak apparent, though there's a suggestion of barrel-fermented richness. Lees?
Flavors of perfectly ripe apple/pear with some mineral action too. Strong impression of acidity keeps fruit sweetness in check. Very nice. Reminds me of a really good Albarino. Nice length.
Day 3 - Very nice nut skin, lichee candy aromas add to the above fruit notes now. Understated, concentrated and long.
Pretty easy to drain this.
Alcohol 13.8% listed
Gift - $20?
Bright apple/pear aromas, slightly spicy. No oak apparent, though there's a suggestion of barrel-fermented richness. Lees?
Flavors of perfectly ripe apple/pear with some mineral action too. Strong impression of acidity keeps fruit sweetness in check. Very nice. Reminds me of a really good Albarino. Nice length.
Day 3 - Very nice nut skin, lichee candy aromas add to the above fruit notes now. Understated, concentrated and long.
Pretty easy to drain this.
Alcohol 13.8% listed
Gift - $20?
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Concha y Toro, "Terrunyo" Carmenere, Block 27 Peumo Vyd 2005
Deep purple.
Bright, refined aromas of fresh herbs, cream, blackberry, oak spice/smoke, earth and even a hint of pepper. Loaded.
Suave and packed in the mouth, beautiful winemaking. Plush and taut simultaneously, with great spice, fresh blackberry and herb flavors riding through mid-palate. Acidity ultimately cuts the finish short, but there's plenty of material here to warrant several years in the bottle.
Ridiculous value.
Day 3 - Very deep, slightly flat on the nose. Similar in the mouth, with a flavor of clay permeating the finish, as does chewy acid/tannin synergy. Needs time, but it's all in the bottle.
$22
Bright, refined aromas of fresh herbs, cream, blackberry, oak spice/smoke, earth and even a hint of pepper. Loaded.
Suave and packed in the mouth, beautiful winemaking. Plush and taut simultaneously, with great spice, fresh blackberry and herb flavors riding through mid-palate. Acidity ultimately cuts the finish short, but there's plenty of material here to warrant several years in the bottle.
Ridiculous value.
Day 3 - Very deep, slightly flat on the nose. Similar in the mouth, with a flavor of clay permeating the finish, as does chewy acid/tannin synergy. Needs time, but it's all in the bottle.
$22
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Clos du Mont-Olivet "Cuvee du Papet" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998
Light red.
Deep smoky/spicy/meaty/toasted hazelnut/blood/iron aromatics. Yes, this smells great.
Grilled herbs, spice flavors, quite bound up at the moment. Even shows some of the wilted greens aspect of the Tardieu-Laurent. Getting sweeter in the mouth with air.
Day 4 - This really hasn't improved a great deal in the mouth. A bit more give, but no additional nuances/complexity to speak of.
$40 on release
Deep smoky/spicy/meaty/toasted hazelnut/blood/iron aromatics. Yes, this smells great.
Grilled herbs, spice flavors, quite bound up at the moment. Even shows some of the wilted greens aspect of the Tardieu-Laurent. Getting sweeter in the mouth with air.
Day 4 - This really hasn't improved a great deal in the mouth. A bit more give, but no additional nuances/complexity to speak of.
$40 on release
Maurel "Les Galets Blonds" Chateauneuf du Pape 1998
Light red, rust rim.
Toned-down game/iron/clay aromatics, with peanut sauce and cherry jam nuances. Savory now, probably overtly Bretty (stinky) a few years ago. Which is an interesting point.
Really round and completely mouth-covering red cherry jam flavor, no sense of weight. Light-moderate tannin provides a nice stage. Peanut and earth slowly come forward. I think there is much more to come with additional air time.
Day 4 - Still attractive/savory aromatically, ditto in the mouth. But this, too, isn't showing any real complexity of flavor.
$25 on release
Toned-down game/iron/clay aromatics, with peanut sauce and cherry jam nuances. Savory now, probably overtly Bretty (stinky) a few years ago. Which is an interesting point.
Really round and completely mouth-covering red cherry jam flavor, no sense of weight. Light-moderate tannin provides a nice stage. Peanut and earth slowly come forward. I think there is much more to come with additional air time.
Day 4 - Still attractive/savory aromatically, ditto in the mouth. But this, too, isn't showing any real complexity of flavor.
$25 on release
Tardieu-Laurent, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1996
Dull, light red.
Expressive nose of breakfast sausage, wilted greens, spice and a bit of iron. I'd guess northern Rhone.
Nice textural sweetness, though hardly dense in the mouth, very good flavor intensity and definition. High acidity (vintage characteristic) still evident, but not intrusive. Smoky sausage/wilted greens action repeats in a major way.
Really interesting, nonfat version of CdP, though I'd never guess it blind.
Day 4 - I must admit I love the aromatic expression here (still), but the acid edge will drive more than a few people crazy.
$30 on release?
Expressive nose of breakfast sausage, wilted greens, spice and a bit of iron. I'd guess northern Rhone.
Nice textural sweetness, though hardly dense in the mouth, very good flavor intensity and definition. High acidity (vintage characteristic) still evident, but not intrusive. Smoky sausage/wilted greens action repeats in a major way.
Really interesting, nonfat version of CdP, though I'd never guess it blind.
Day 4 - I must admit I love the aromatic expression here (still), but the acid edge will drive more than a few people crazy.
$30 on release?
Monday, January 7, 2008
Hope Estate, Shiraz, Hunter Valley 2005
Purple/red.
Deep, plush nose of toasted nut, earth, sausage and subtle Chambord. No heat.
Sweet, round, textural entry, but not ridiculous, with acid/tannin synergy ultimately giving this a middle-weight feel. Pepper as a late flavor entry. Very satisfying stuff and nice drinking with a variety of foods.
Day 3 - Cool peppermint note on the nose now. Great antidote for (often) incredibly ripe S. Australian Shiraz.
Gift - $20?
Deep, plush nose of toasted nut, earth, sausage and subtle Chambord. No heat.
Sweet, round, textural entry, but not ridiculous, with acid/tannin synergy ultimately giving this a middle-weight feel. Pepper as a late flavor entry. Very satisfying stuff and nice drinking with a variety of foods.
Day 3 - Cool peppermint note on the nose now. Great antidote for (often) incredibly ripe S. Australian Shiraz.
Gift - $20?
Friday, January 4, 2008
Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch, Riesling Auslese 2002
Pale platinum.
Pungent (SO2 enhanced?) apple and nectarine nose.
Broad nectarine and peach flavor, vivid and fully ripe, with obvious sweetness immediately battled by chewy, minerally acidity. Schildnecht's "interplay" of flavor/structure in spades. And it just doesn't end. Still tasting it a minute later, front teeth coated in "mineral" chew. Interesting - a late note of iron.
Very impressive.
Day 3 - No significant change aromatically. Sweet entry ultimately crushed by an avalanche of stones/acidity.
$40
Pungent (SO2 enhanced?) apple and nectarine nose.
Broad nectarine and peach flavor, vivid and fully ripe, with obvious sweetness immediately battled by chewy, minerally acidity. Schildnecht's "interplay" of flavor/structure in spades. And it just doesn't end. Still tasting it a minute later, front teeth coated in "mineral" chew. Interesting - a late note of iron.
Very impressive.
Day 3 - No significant change aromatically. Sweet entry ultimately crushed by an avalanche of stones/acidity.
$40
La Spinetta "Pin" Monferrato Rosso 2003
Purple/red.
Riper fruit on the nose here - though in the red fruit spectrum - red raspberry and even strawberry. Earth and oak spice in definitely in the background.
Confectionary entry, totally lacking in the other two vintages, quickly obliterated by a wall of acid/tannin synergy. Completely dominated by its structure, currently. No finish. This will be interesting to watch.
Hot vintage favoring Barbera, not Nebbiolo. Wonder if the blend changed?
Day 3 - Definitely riper, still, on the nose. I might guess a packed Ribera del Duero, blind. Creamy, plush palate, with serious structure in the mid-palate. Good stuff, but the other two vintages are even deeper and more nuanced.
$40
Riper fruit on the nose here - though in the red fruit spectrum - red raspberry and even strawberry. Earth and oak spice in definitely in the background.
Confectionary entry, totally lacking in the other two vintages, quickly obliterated by a wall of acid/tannin synergy. Completely dominated by its structure, currently. No finish. This will be interesting to watch.
Hot vintage favoring Barbera, not Nebbiolo. Wonder if the blend changed?
Day 3 - Definitely riper, still, on the nose. I might guess a packed Ribera del Duero, blind. Creamy, plush palate, with serious structure in the mid-palate. Good stuff, but the other two vintages are even deeper and more nuanced.
$40
La Spinetta "Pin" Monferrato Rosso 2001
Purple/red.
Vibrant red and black fruit nose, with (A-1?) spice, earth and a medicinal nuance as well. Deep.
Intense black and red raspberry, oak spice and earth in the mouth. A bit more breadth/"give" than the '99 at this point, but then also more tannic. Definite front teeth "chew", which really inhibits any coherent finish. Needs time.
I think this and subsequent vintages are blends of Barbera and Nebbiolo only.
Day 3 - Deep, killer nose - earth/spice/aged Bordeaux herbs/A-1 ...
Quite intensely flavored - spicy black fruit, Bordeaux herb/rust - then huge tooth-coating structure. Again, this appears to be nowhere close to primetime. This obviously seems to include Cabernet, so I wonder if my previous comment is accurate.
In the La Spinetta/Rivetti lineup, this bottling is my favorite, and fortunately, very affordable.
$40
Vibrant red and black fruit nose, with (A-1?) spice, earth and a medicinal nuance as well. Deep.
Intense black and red raspberry, oak spice and earth in the mouth. A bit more breadth/"give" than the '99 at this point, but then also more tannic. Definite front teeth "chew", which really inhibits any coherent finish. Needs time.
I think this and subsequent vintages are blends of Barbera and Nebbiolo only.
Day 3 - Deep, killer nose - earth/spice/aged Bordeaux herbs/A-1 ...
Quite intensely flavored - spicy black fruit, Bordeaux herb/rust - then huge tooth-coating structure. Again, this appears to be nowhere close to primetime. This obviously seems to include Cabernet, so I wonder if my previous comment is accurate.
In the La Spinetta/Rivetti lineup, this bottling is my favorite, and fortunately, very affordable.
$40
La Spinetta "Pin" Monferrato Rosso 1999
Deep red.
Dense, smoky, (clean) earthy nose. A-1 steak sauce, black fruit, nut liqueur and iron with air.
Densely packed, yet lean. Relatively fine tannin does little to (obviously) constrict mouthfeel. Acid-driven structure really guts any mid-palate flesh, but intense flavors of spicy red fruit sail on through the finish. Very interesting from a textural standpoint. Long, lean finish.
Blend of Barbera, Nebbiolo and Cabernet.
Day 3 - Really packed, black fruit/earth/oak char nose. Structure still strong, but flavors ride through. Much better flesh in the mid-palate. I wonder what to expect in the future, as this doesn't seem to be anywhere near its peak.
$35 on release
Dense, smoky, (clean) earthy nose. A-1 steak sauce, black fruit, nut liqueur and iron with air.
Densely packed, yet lean. Relatively fine tannin does little to (obviously) constrict mouthfeel. Acid-driven structure really guts any mid-palate flesh, but intense flavors of spicy red fruit sail on through the finish. Very interesting from a textural standpoint. Long, lean finish.
Blend of Barbera, Nebbiolo and Cabernet.
Day 3 - Really packed, black fruit/earth/oak char nose. Structure still strong, but flavors ride through. Much better flesh in the mid-palate. I wonder what to expect in the future, as this doesn't seem to be anywhere near its peak.
$35 on release
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Niepoort "Redoma" Douro Tinto 2004 (Portugal)
Deep red.
Pepper, red and black raspberry, earth, cream and oak spice. More open, a bit less deep than the Quinta Vale.
Quite round in the mouth, very attractive, with just a bit of acid-driven tannin at the side of the mouth. But this doesn't have the concentration of the Quinta V. A bit of a let down in the finish, but very tasty.
A blend of Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Franca.
Day 4 - Better depth in both areas tonight. There's a pepper/earth character here that reminds me of a Palacios Bierzo. Intense, no fat.
$45
Pepper, red and black raspberry, earth, cream and oak spice. More open, a bit less deep than the Quinta Vale.
Quite round in the mouth, very attractive, with just a bit of acid-driven tannin at the side of the mouth. But this doesn't have the concentration of the Quinta V. A bit of a let down in the finish, but very tasty.
A blend of Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Franca.
Day 4 - Better depth in both areas tonight. There's a pepper/earth character here that reminds me of a Palacios Bierzo. Intense, no fat.
$45
Quinta Vale D. Maria, Douro Tinto 2004 (Portugal)
Red/purple.
Black raspberry, pepper, earth, oak spice nose. Nice purity.
Round entry, densely flavored, but refined, with nice acidity aiding mild tannin. Suave stuff, understated, yet packed. Beautiful winemaking here, probably helped by a temperate growing season. This should develop very nicely in the bottle.
I'd like to see this 6-8 years from now.
I wonder what the blend is? (Looked it up on eParker - apparently a field blend of 41(!) red varieties)
Day 4 - Very deep on the, now melded, sumptuous nose. Still packed and harmonious in the mouth, still refined/chewy.
This rocks.
$40
Black raspberry, pepper, earth, oak spice nose. Nice purity.
Round entry, densely flavored, but refined, with nice acidity aiding mild tannin. Suave stuff, understated, yet packed. Beautiful winemaking here, probably helped by a temperate growing season. This should develop very nicely in the bottle.
I'd like to see this 6-8 years from now.
I wonder what the blend is? (Looked it up on eParker - apparently a field blend of 41(!) red varieties)
Day 4 - Very deep on the, now melded, sumptuous nose. Still packed and harmonious in the mouth, still refined/chewy.
This rocks.
$40
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