Friday, January 11, 2008

Alban, Roussanne, Edna Valley 2005 (Estate)

Light yellow.

Deep, yet reticent fruit character - pear/apricot/peach - with smoky,spicy oak as a background. Slight sulfide edge.

Huge apricot/peach sweetness in the mouth reminds me of Viognier to some extent, but then there is an impression of massive restraint (acidity and phenolic chew) beginning in the mid-palate. But this "chew" slows the flavor flow, rather than killing it. There is some heat (16.1%), a bit abrasive in the finish.

As well balanced as a 16% alcohol, dry white (I think this is unfiltered, slight haze) can be. But the case for residual sugar to balance alcohol is a strong one. Nevertheless, you have to tip your hat to John for going balls out. Love it or leave it.

What a contrast in style - Forgeron/Alban.

Day 3 - Smoky oak shows a bit more, but alcohol is correspondingly better integrated. Huge fruit sweetness, still, in the mouth, balanced pretty well by minerally acid action. Nevertheless, still shows a disjointed/unpleasant burn.

I hate to sound like an alco-phobe, but this is extremely difficult to enjoy on anything more than a theoretical basis.

$50?