Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier 2005 Canberra, Australia

Red/purple.

Great, lifted, white pepper aromatics from the start, with juniper, black fruit and suave oak toast underneath.

Round, seamless stuff initially, then seemingly high acidity kicks in to brighten white pepper/juniper flavors. But it also gives a dis-jointed palate feel. A middle-weight, tightly-strung feel in the mouth. Deceptively long and bright. About as far from stereotypical Aussie Shiraz as you can get.

93% Shiraz, 7% Viognier. For some reason (probably the wild, lifted pepper character), I always assumed this was from Western Australia. Not so - Canberra is just a bit south of the Hunter Valley.

This vintage closed with an agglomerated "Diam" cork. Very interesting.

Day 5 - Deeper, meatier (not brett) nose, but still has a core of pepper/juniper. More flesh, "give", in the mouth too. Still vibrant flavors of citrus/pepper/juniper. Still acid-driven. Very interesting.

$50

Copain, Syrah, Brosseau, Chalone 2005

Purple/red.

Integrated fresh black fruit, menthol, black pepper. No heat, nothing crazy, just deep, even and pure.

Intense and slightly aggressive with acidity in the mouth. Good flesh and mid-palate flavor, but acid-constriction really cuts into flavor flow. This will be an interesting bottling to follow. I don't see a great deal of stem contribution here.

Day 5 - Simpler now, still vibrant.

$40

Zind Humbrecht, Hengst, Gewurtztraminer 2002

Copper.

Roasted, spicy, creme brulee and apricot jelly aromas. Really deep.

Big, sweet, thick entry of grapefruit/apricot candy/jelly/liqueur and roasted botrytis. All lifted by acidity that seems to have a fair bit of the volatile kind. Thick and racy, finishing with vivid dried apricot and roasted/smoky botrytis that is remarkably refined. Just crazy, still trying to figure out what's going on in the glass. Huge length.

Alcohol 15%, Indice 4 (lots of sugar)

$30 (375mL)

Monday, April 21, 2008

Passopisciaro, Rosso Sicilia 2005

Very light red.

An immediate praline suggestion on the nose, then hints of pepper, crancherry, balsam, clay. This reminds me a bit of the Turley Zin tasted recently, only lighter/finer.

Round, then building citric character hits the front teeth. Intense, but light-bodied, with red fruit and ruby grapefruit the dominant flavors. Pretty cool stuff. With some air the grapefruit action really takes over. This also reminds me of Spanish Garnacha. I'd imagine this will expand and become more complex in the mouth with several years of bottle age.

From the guy (Franchetti?) who makes the Trinoro wines in Chianti.
100% Nerello Mascalese, apparently a native Sicilian variety.

Day 4 - Less aromatic now, but extremely intense/vibrant citrus character in the mouth, with balsam action too. Definitely needs to sit.

$35

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Allegrini Amarone 1998

Deep red.

Earth/truffle/charcoal/cherry jam aromatics. There's a general, very positive, sweetness here. Late note of iron/blood.

Huge palate impact - creamy/mouth-filling in a way that most red wines cannot match. Then hugely structured, with major acid/tannin synergy which constricts flavor flow only slightly. Very long cherry jam/smoky/earthy/truffley finish.

Killer.

Day 2 - Major chocolate action on the nose, earth/truffle too. There's a rare density here, just loaded. Slight heat now. This will go for many years. Huge cherry jam/earth flavor impact, chewy, long.

Day 3 - Back to blood/iron/truffle on the nose.

$50

Hirtzberger, Riesling, Hochrain, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)

Light yellow.

Jellied white fruit, ruby grapefruit flesh, pepper nose. Smells a bit like GV.

Intense grapefruit zest flavor is wild - then spicy lemon - crazy citric action. Hits the salivary glands hard. This is killer. No let up - citric flavor actually is part of the structural acid/phenolic/mineral chew. Pure, racy, packed and ridiculously long.
There's sugar in here somewhere, but I don't see it, just feel its effects. Coats every tooth in the mouth with citric/mineral chew.

Holy shit ..

$45

Donnhoff, Felsenberg, Riesling, Trocken, Nahe 2006

Vibrant straw/yellow.

Discreet, pristine aromas of white peach/nectarine/apple and a suggestion of meal.

Very deep flavors of peach coulis, spiced apple and chewy mineral action. Vibrant acidity, no (obvious) sweetness from sugar (Trocken=dry). Fruit flavors are remarkably even throughout the wine, always kept taut by mineral/acid structure. Very long finish begins with fruit and ends with teeth-coating mineral chew.

PFG, courtesy of T & K Tucker.

$40?

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Mas d'en Compte, White Priorat 2005

Deep yellow/gold. This will freak a few people out.

Thick nose - bananas Foster, exotic oils and a hint of pepper. Peach later.

Really viscous in the mouth, low-toned and dense. Reminds me of N. Rhone whites (Marsanne, Roussanne, not Viognier). Peach dominates in the mouth, a custard character too. Brighter on the finish, as dormant acid/phenolic chew kicks in.

$30

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape 1998

Deep red.

Earth, grilled meat and nut aromas, deep and savory, suggest new oak contribution. But there is no new oak. Huge pool of black cherry action buried underneath. Great nose.

Round and sweet initial textural impression. Grainy tannin balances. Not nearly as complex as the Beaucastel, but has a sensual character that Beaucastel lacks. Long cherry/earth, chewy finish.


Day 3 - Similar to day 1 on the nose, more of a veg note now, though. Sweet palate-impression, then stiff tannin/acid synergy clamps down. This really needs years, though I have no idea how many. Sensuality now firmly on the Beaucastel side.
This is interesting, as VT regularly includes stems and Beaucastel does not. VT has reacted erratically to air ...


$50 on release.

Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998

Deep red.

Earth, charcoal, iron/blood, toasted nut nose with cherry jam underneath. Harmonious and deep.

Round middle-weight in the mouth, with blood/iron, zesty orange, earth and nut flavors. Very even flavor flow, with citrus chew covering the side teeth. NIce mid-palate flesh to balance structure. Quiet intensity.

Like to see this in another 6-7 years, and again in 15.

Day 3 - Clay/earth/iron/rust nose now, with toasted nut and cherry jam in the background. Integrated and even more savory now. Round and even, still, with the same zesty citrus action. Structure has increased. Definitely built for aging.

$50 on release

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Brancott, Sauvignon Blanc "Reserve", Marlborough (NZ) 2006

Platinum.

Expressive, vibrant nose of fresh herbs/asparagus, lemon/grapefruit zest and stone.

Hint of sweetness that runs through the wine, balanced nicely with powdered stone, grapefruit zest and flesh, and asparagus flavors. Long, wildly fresh and very tasty. Really long, actually, and beautifully balanced sugar/acid action.

$16

Turley, Dusi Vyd., Paso Robles, Zinfandel 2005

Red.

Deep crushed cranberry, light earth and oak spice nose. Citrus/pepper with air.

Sweet, easy entry, with significant framing acidity immediately apparent. Balsa wood makes an appearance too. Driving intensity to the flavors, still a bit bound up. As pure and fine as Zin is likely to be, but not easy or generous at this stage.

15.6% alcohol

Day 3 - Very little change aromatically - still fresh/vibrant. Ditto in the mouth, more balsa action. Much more expressive, though, with nice acid-driven finish of cranberry and balsa. Convincing, interesting Zin.

$35

Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2001

Deep red.

Great melded, fine nose of oak spice, savory meat, nut liqueur and hints of red fruit underneath (spiced strawberry?).

Earth/citrus flavors are pure and intense, middle-weight flavors enhanced by driving acidity. Not at all expressing in the mouth yet. Needs years.

This bottling almost always freaks me out. Beautifully pure, integrated and intense.

Day 3 - The cherry jam/Amaretto thing reminds me of a killer Barbaresco to some extent. Nothing fat or creamy here. Aromatically thrilling, but still a bit bound up in the mouth. Really does need many years.

$75

Clos Marie "Simon" Pic St. Loup (Languedoc) 2004

Light purple/red.

Crushed rosemary/thyme, earth, savory meat, oak spice and driving red and black fruit nose. Fresh and intense - reminds me of Priorat's best examples. But here I get much more complexity.

Potato/citrus intensity of flavor is a bit unexpected, as is acid/tannin synergy that reaches the front teeth, but does not kill flavor flow. There's a fineness here that is also unexpected, particularly for the Languedoc.

This is loaded. Love to see this in 6-8 years. 50% Grenache/50% Syrah.

Day 3 - Now earth/citrus has migrated to the nose. Deep, but simpler. Round spicy/earthy/taut black fruit in the mouth. Acidity now the dominant structural feature. Another wine that needs several years.

$35

Copain 2006 Hacienda Secoya, Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)

Light red.

Earth/clay, aromatic spices and red fruit nose. Nice lift.

Round, mouthfilling with a touch of sweetness in the mouth. But currently falls short in the mouth. Stem inclusion adds some attractive spice action, and there is nice length of flavor. Attractive, delineated, middle-weight Pinot. Still, this is one occasion where later picking might have been in order. We'll see...

13.2% alcohol

Day 3 - More depth on the nose. A great deal more, actually, almost sumptuous. Better flow and depth in the mouth too. Sommeliers will love this, but lacks an extra dimension.

$40

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Aalto 2001 Ribera del Duero

Saturated purple/red.

Significant oak contribution on the nose, but it works - savory meat, grilled meat, coconut, blackberry custard and lifted spice notes. Quite lively, refined.

Round middleweight, acid-driven tannin immediately provides textural tension. Earth/custard/coconut flavors fight through significant structure from the mid-palate on. Long, chewy. Loaded.

Mariano Garcia was the winemaker at Vega Sicilia for years. He knows how to use barrels, especially American.

$50, opened yesterday.

Andrew Will, Champoux Vineyard, Washington State 2000

Saturated purple.

Popcorn and heavy toast barrels, black fruit peeking out.

Round and broad in the mouth, with a textural sweetness too. Not a great deal of flavor, though, or complexity, for that matter. Concentrated, but blunt.

52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot.

Opened yesterday

$45

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Mitolo "Serpico" Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2003

Red.

Expansive nose - sweet herbs (almost CF-like), toasted nut and a black raspberry (!) nuance.

Round, generous and loaded in the mouth, slightly grainy. Monster mid-palate flesh, but not sweet or overdone in any way. Moderate tannin in the finish.

Opened yesterday. A portion of the grapes for this wine were dried, a la Amarone.

$50

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Pax, Syrah "Walker Vine Hill" Russian River Valley 2003

Saturated purple.

Menthol/melted licorice, spicy fig, a medicinal nuance and some heat on the nose.

Round, creamy, low-acid impression. Tannin seems to be the dominant structural force, enhanced by higher alcohol. Alcohol intrudes in the mid-palate. Another wine that may just need air.

Day 3 - Similar nose. Smells loaded. Thick and grainy, intense, with some alcohol. Long. Distinctive, definitely not for everyone.

Day 5 - Menthol/dates/figs/black licorice. Killer, loaded nose. Round, sweet, grainy, slightly saline textural impression. Great concentration, well-expressed. My favorite of the bunch.

15.6% alcohol listed.

$55

Rolf Binder "Hanisch" Shiraz Barossa Valley 2002

Purple.

Fragrant American oak (?) nose, with spice and black fruit underneath. Harmonious, but not particularly deep or complex, yet.

Round, creamy and a bit sweet. Nicely put together, but pretty unconvincing in tonight's company. May just need air. Long, oak-driven finish.

Day 3 - Much better depth on the nose, harmonious, suave. Even an exotic apricot note. Ditto in the mouth. Coconut and good depth. This is not in the same league as the other wines.

Day 5 - I'll stick with my comments from Day 3. I'm a big Binder fan, but this is a step short of the others.

$100

Kongsgaard, Syrah, Napa Valley 2003

Saturated purple.

Menthol/licorice, citrus, fig, smoky oak, grilled meat/A1 steak sauce nose.

Round and a bit creamy in the mouth. Not at all over the top, great density, but restrained. Acid/tannin synergy is significant, but does not intrude. Two tracks flowing together. Tight citrus flavors too. This definitely needs air. Long, chewy.

Day 3 - Very deep, low-toned nose similar to day 1. Similar in the mouth too, but I seem to get some heat (VA?) here. Very long menthol finish. Huge, in fact. Structure is tannin-based.

Listed 14.1% alcohol. From a specific block in the Hudson Vineyard in Carneros, all white volcanic tufa, I believe. Interesting, as it reminds me of the 2001 Havens Hudson Syrah tasted recently.

$150

Two Hands "Ares" Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2002

Saturated purple.

Smoky, grilled meat, earth nose with a load of black fruit underneath. Slight heat. Hint of popcorn/sulfide too. Then black pepper ... this thing is reacting strongly with air.

Creamy and mouthcoating, edgeless. Sneaky structure creeps up slowly. Spicy, earthy, black pepper flavors. Fruit submerged, at present. Then an exotic note of peach pit. Long, fine finish.

Day 3 - Deep earth, pepper, nut aromatics. Round, creamy and sweet in the mouth, with great, grainy, concentration. There's a blackberry custard flavor here, too. Long, slightly saline finish.

$100

Pazo Senorans, Albarino, Rias Baixas (Spain) 2006

Platinum/yellow.

Slight CO2 fizz. Fresh apple, nut, and white peach aromas. Deep, ripe.

Deep apple/apple skin/mineral flavors. Immediately framed by driving, "minerally", acidity (undoubtedly enhanced by CO2) that coats the front teeth. Pretty powerful, stuff at the moment, but not showing a great deal of complexity. We'll see what happens as the CO2 dissipates.

Day 5 - Believe it or not, this thing is singing. Nuts (litchee and almond), fresh apple on the nose. Refined, pure flavors of apple skin, mineral/rocks, white peach, face powder. Huge mineral/apple-chew finish.

Killer.

$22

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Domane Wachau, Achleiten, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd 2006

Straw/yellow.

Fat nose - ripe/juicy pear and a hint of spice. Even a suggestion of mango. This has a decent bit of sugar.

Broad, sweet impression in the mouth. Mango, peach, pear - delicious, but slightly boring. Good acid/mineral kick, but it hits the front teeth late in the game. This may just need bottle-age to "digest" the sugar.

$30

Caprai "Collepiano" Sangrantino di Montefalco 1998

Red.

Fairly open nose - red licorice, toasted nuts/charcoal, leather/game. Sweeter red fruit with air.

Sweet red cherry flavor in the mouth, with substantial acid-driven chew swerving in. Really piercing flavors of mint and asphalt (indeed) that brighten, and constrict. Wild intensity in the mouth will freak out some folks. Need a crusty lamb shank, dripping fat.

Day 4 - Charcoal, leather, nuts and black cherry jam aromatics. A bit of a burnt character in the mouth. I waited too long to come back to this.


$40

Antinori "Badia a Passignano" Chianti Classico Riserva 2001

Purple/red.

Packed nose - charcoal, toasted nut, leather with deep black cherry underneath.

Round and very suave in the mouth, mild acid/tannin synergy almost invisible. Nice core of black fruit/leather/licorice flavors that ride through the finish. Structure builds, but seems to extend flavors. A bit of celery salt.

Good action.

$40