Medium red. Looks like Pinot.
Vibrant, lifted nose shows some American oak spice, earth/grain, cranberry/citrus and pepper notes.
Round, sweet entry framed by mouth-watering acidity and light tannin. Walks lightly, but carries intense citrus character front to back. Again, this has the refinement of a very nice Pinot, nothing overdone. Long, subtle finish.
Not incredible, just very, very satisfying wine. I buy this whenever I can.
$25
Friday, April 27, 2007
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
Domaine Tempier "Tourtine" 2004 (Bandol, France)
Deep red/purple.
Clay/earth, wax nose with pure blackberry fruit underneath.
Round and mouthfilling. Acid and tannin combining equally to provide immediate structure. Very nicely balanced. But I'm not sure this has the depth of flavor to benefit much from cellaring.
Day 3 - Additional aromatic complexity now - I've slightly under-estimated this. Still, I don't think I'll be thrilled by the last bottle 6-7 years from now. Give me some (more) Bastide Blanche.
$45
Clay/earth, wax nose with pure blackberry fruit underneath.
Round and mouthfilling. Acid and tannin combining equally to provide immediate structure. Very nicely balanced. But I'm not sure this has the depth of flavor to benefit much from cellaring.
Day 3 - Additional aromatic complexity now - I've slightly under-estimated this. Still, I don't think I'll be thrilled by the last bottle 6-7 years from now. Give me some (more) Bastide Blanche.
$45
Palacios "Petalos" 2004 (Bierzo, Spain)
Deep red/purple.
Spicy/peppery/earthy/clay aromas with a lurking citrus note.
Aromas repeat as intense, linear flavors in the mouth. No sense of weight or oak influence.
Long acid-driven finish, chewy tannin arriving late.
I love this stuff.
Day 3 - A spicy sausage character now too. Much deeper, fatter aromatically.
A whopping $15
Spicy/peppery/earthy/clay aromas with a lurking citrus note.
Aromas repeat as intense, linear flavors in the mouth. No sense of weight or oak influence.
Long acid-driven finish, chewy tannin arriving late.
I love this stuff.
Day 3 - A spicy sausage character now too. Much deeper, fatter aromatically.
A whopping $15
Monday, April 23, 2007
Avan "Nacimiento" Ribera del Duero 2004
Deep red.
Great smoky/earthy/meaty black fruit and cinnamon nose. Low-toned and sumptuous.
Round and mouthfilling, with acid-driven tannin sneaking in to frame flavors that mirror nose. Finishes with front teeth structure chew. Very nicely balanced, refined, flavorful wine. This will improve with a couple more years in the bottle.
Really good.
$25
Great smoky/earthy/meaty black fruit and cinnamon nose. Low-toned and sumptuous.
Round and mouthfilling, with acid-driven tannin sneaking in to frame flavors that mirror nose. Finishes with front teeth structure chew. Very nicely balanced, refined, flavorful wine. This will improve with a couple more years in the bottle.
Really good.
$25
Friday, April 20, 2007
Loimer "Alte Reben (Old Vine)" Spiegel (Vyd) Gruner Veltliner 1999 Austria
Light yellow.
Sesame oil, pear and citrus nose.
Intense pepper/citrus entry, slightly sweet (?), with bracing acid/mineral chew to balance. This is loaded. More interesting, structured and long as it airs. Extremely long mineral chew finish.
This is way more interesting than most white wines of similar age.
$30?
Sesame oil, pear and citrus nose.
Intense pepper/citrus entry, slightly sweet (?), with bracing acid/mineral chew to balance. This is loaded. More interesting, structured and long as it airs. Extremely long mineral chew finish.
This is way more interesting than most white wines of similar age.
$30?
Copain "Hawks Butte" Syrah 2004 (Yorkville Highlands)
Deep purple/red.
Deep, integrated nose of meat, polenta, soy and a hint of stems.
Round and mouth-filling, but nothing sweet going on, thanks to immediate chewy tannin impression (from stem inclusion?).
Acid seems non-existent, but you have to focus to miss it. Black and blue fruit underneath.
The most satisfying, seamless wine of the lot.
Day 2 - A note of cheese (indeed), with stronger, chewier tannin in the finish really clamping down on the front teeth. But this simply needs more years in bottle.
$50
Deep, integrated nose of meat, polenta, soy and a hint of stems.
Round and mouth-filling, but nothing sweet going on, thanks to immediate chewy tannin impression (from stem inclusion?).
Acid seems non-existent, but you have to focus to miss it. Black and blue fruit underneath.
The most satisfying, seamless wine of the lot.
Day 2 - A note of cheese (indeed), with stronger, chewier tannin in the finish really clamping down on the front teeth. But this simply needs more years in bottle.
$50
Delas "Les Bessards" Hermitage 2003
Red/purple.
Spicy fig/date/olive and smoked meat aromatics. Deep and pristine.
Low-toned in the mouth with a confectionary, spicy licorice character. No acid apparent, but features big chewy tannin that hit the front teeth late. Packed, but needs a few years to express in the mouth.
This is interesting - the "best" (granite-based) vineyard site on Hermitage hill in an incredibly warm year. I'm starting to think this vintage is not as good as I've been led to believe it is. But time will tell.
Day 2 - Ditto on everything above, but mid-palate is flat, something I've noticed with a few other 2003 N. Rhones. Again, I'm not so sure about this vintage.
$110
Spicy fig/date/olive and smoked meat aromatics. Deep and pristine.
Low-toned in the mouth with a confectionary, spicy licorice character. No acid apparent, but features big chewy tannin that hit the front teeth late. Packed, but needs a few years to express in the mouth.
This is interesting - the "best" (granite-based) vineyard site on Hermitage hill in an incredibly warm year. I'm starting to think this vintage is not as good as I've been led to believe it is. But time will tell.
Day 2 - Ditto on everything above, but mid-palate is flat, something I've noticed with a few other 2003 N. Rhones. Again, I'm not so sure about this vintage.
$110
Pax Alder Springs Vyd. Syrah 2004 (Mendocino County)
Opaque red/purple. Not as saturated as Alban.
Open nose of fresh blackberry/raspberry, spearmint and a nice, low-key earth element.
Light palate impression, with flavors wrapped up in acid-driven structure. Tannins currently seem quite chewy.
This really doesn't seem to have the concentration of flavor to back up the acid/tannin synergy.
$55
Open nose of fresh blackberry/raspberry, spearmint and a nice, low-key earth element.
Light palate impression, with flavors wrapped up in acid-driven structure. Tannins currently seem quite chewy.
This really doesn't seem to have the concentration of flavor to back up the acid/tannin synergy.
$55
Alban "Reva" Syrah 2003 (Edna Valley)
Opaque red/purple.
Discreet, pure aromas of white pepper, licorice, blood orange, subtle oak spice, soy and slow-roasted meat. Spectacularly refined, complex nose.
Sweet, perfumed citrus peel entry. Huge and creamy start to finish, with citrus character and a slight alcohol burn going the distance also. I have a feeling that palate complexity will increase, and the alcohol become more integrated, with cellaring.
Day 2 - This bottle and the Copain - what a great contrast in style, and, possibly, vintage and terroir. The Alban deriving aromatic and flavor purity from (what I assume to be) lower pH/higher acidity and sweetness in the mouth from elevated alcohol. Copain benefiting from stem inclusion/lower acidity/higher pH (and lower alcohol) in terms of roundness and expressive, seamless palate character. Zero sum game? At the highest level, it can be nothing else.
$75
Discreet, pure aromas of white pepper, licorice, blood orange, subtle oak spice, soy and slow-roasted meat. Spectacularly refined, complex nose.
Sweet, perfumed citrus peel entry. Huge and creamy start to finish, with citrus character and a slight alcohol burn going the distance also. I have a feeling that palate complexity will increase, and the alcohol become more integrated, with cellaring.
Day 2 - This bottle and the Copain - what a great contrast in style, and, possibly, vintage and terroir. The Alban deriving aromatic and flavor purity from (what I assume to be) lower pH/higher acidity and sweetness in the mouth from elevated alcohol. Copain benefiting from stem inclusion/lower acidity/higher pH (and lower alcohol) in terms of roundness and expressive, seamless palate character. Zero sum game? At the highest level, it can be nothing else.
$75
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
Arietta "H Block" Hudson Vyd 2002
Deep, saturated red.
Creamy, deep nose of chocolate and herbs.
Round creamy palate-impression loaded with powdery tannin. Suave, consistent flavor start to finish. Just lacks any significant complexity.
Day 2 - No real development aromatically. Palate now bound up, with tannin taking on a bitter edge.
?
$75
Creamy, deep nose of chocolate and herbs.
Round creamy palate-impression loaded with powdery tannin. Suave, consistent flavor start to finish. Just lacks any significant complexity.
Day 2 - No real development aromatically. Palate now bound up, with tannin taking on a bitter edge.
?
$75
Aubert Chardonnay "Lauren" Sonoma Coast 2005
Pale, unfiltered yellow.
Very refined mineral, smoke and truffle/lees aromas.
Intense, but very light impression in the mouth. Lemon, stone/mineral/acid structure. Great length of flavor unimpeded by alcohol (15.1% listed).
This rocks.
$95
Very refined mineral, smoke and truffle/lees aromas.
Intense, but very light impression in the mouth. Lemon, stone/mineral/acid structure. Great length of flavor unimpeded by alcohol (15.1% listed).
This rocks.
$95
Chave Hermitage Blanc 2003
Medium yellow.
Low-key nose with hints of white peach, almond paste and subtle oak spice.
Mouth-coating, more refined and nuanced that Guigal's St. Joseph. Has a textural sweetness from very ripe fruit (and alcohol, as this is reportedly near 16%). No sense of acidity, but you don't really miss it. Nice, light tannin cut on finish. Shows a bit of heat. Finish is incredibly long and subtle.
$150
Low-key nose with hints of white peach, almond paste and subtle oak spice.
Mouth-coating, more refined and nuanced that Guigal's St. Joseph. Has a textural sweetness from very ripe fruit (and alcohol, as this is reportedly near 16%). No sense of acidity, but you don't really miss it. Nice, light tannin cut on finish. Shows a bit of heat. Finish is incredibly long and subtle.
$150
Guigal Lieu-Dit St. Joseph Blanc 2004
Light yellow/gold.
Smells fat. Subtle oak spice and peach aromatics.
Broad, thicker and more blunt than the Chave. Seems to have considerable new oak influence. Pineapple and almond in the mouth. Extremely long, thick finish of oak oil and almond.
$35
Smells fat. Subtle oak spice and peach aromatics.
Broad, thicker and more blunt than the Chave. Seems to have considerable new oak influence. Pineapple and almond in the mouth. Extremely long, thick finish of oak oil and almond.
$35
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Copain Viognier Saralee's Vyd. 2005
Pale yellow.
Litchi candy, peach pit and a hint of oak (?) spice.
Sweet peach/apricot in the mouth, with mild, acid-driven spice. A bit of tannic chew also. Very good flavor follow-through.
This was opened yesterday, and definitely benefited from a bit of air.
Very tasty and varietally (CA) correct. In fact, similar to Arrowood's Viognier from the same vineyard.
$25
Litchi candy, peach pit and a hint of oak (?) spice.
Sweet peach/apricot in the mouth, with mild, acid-driven spice. A bit of tannic chew also. Very good flavor follow-through.
This was opened yesterday, and definitely benefited from a bit of air.
Very tasty and varietally (CA) correct. In fact, similar to Arrowood's Viognier from the same vineyard.
$25
Rockbare Shiraz McLaren Vale 2004
Deep red.
Toasty, integrated oak and spicy black fruit (olives, ?).
Grainy, toasty oak front and center, but has decent fruit follow-through. Quite good for the $$, but nothing more.
Screwcap
$11
Toasty, integrated oak and spicy black fruit (olives, ?).
Grainy, toasty oak front and center, but has decent fruit follow-through. Quite good for the $$, but nothing more.
Screwcap
$11
Bouissiere Gigondas 1998
Deep red, some rim evolution.
Earthy/spicy/potato skin/red licorice/meaty, very deep nose. Smells packed.
Completely mouth-filling, an explosion of flavor, mirroring nose, in the mid-palate. Wow. Tannin level is high, but is kept well in bounds by monster flavor impact and pure concentration. This is lamb stew wine.
$25
Earthy/spicy/potato skin/red licorice/meaty, very deep nose. Smells packed.
Completely mouth-filling, an explosion of flavor, mirroring nose, in the mid-palate. Wow. Tannin level is high, but is kept well in bounds by monster flavor impact and pure concentration. This is lamb stew wine.
$25
Alban Roussanne Edna Valley 2004 (Estate)
Light, unfiltered, yellow.
Citrus and white peach, smoke and popcorn - all low-key, quite subtle.
Quite concentrated and intense in the mouth, but has great acid/phenolic chew that keeps flavors fresh and delineated.
This reminds me very much of a killer Burgundian-styled Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast. Minerally and even has a petrol nuance in the finish. I've often found Alban whites to be too much, but this is an entirely different animal.
Truffle/sulfide action too.
$35? Can't remember
Citrus and white peach, smoke and popcorn - all low-key, quite subtle.
Quite concentrated and intense in the mouth, but has great acid/phenolic chew that keeps flavors fresh and delineated.
This reminds me very much of a killer Burgundian-styled Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast. Minerally and even has a petrol nuance in the finish. I've often found Alban whites to be too much, but this is an entirely different animal.
Truffle/sulfide action too.
$35? Can't remember
Friday, April 6, 2007
Peyre Rose "Clos des Cistes" Coteaux du Languedoc 1995
Deep red, garnet rim.
Subtle nose that seems to show a Bordeaux-like oak integration, even though I'm fairly certain that this was raised in tank.
Very light hint of game, red cherry liqueur, Frangelico and pepper. Quite attractive, seductive not overpowering.
Aromatic range expanding significantly with air.
Light/medium-bodied in the mouth, nice fruit sweetness in the mouth, tempered by acid-driven tannin. Flavor inpact is substantial, yet subtle, which sounds ridiculous. Wonderfully idiosyncratic wine, from a woman who painted her winery pink.
This definitely needs air.
Mostly Syrah with a bit of Grenache (I think).
$ 35?
Subtle nose that seems to show a Bordeaux-like oak integration, even though I'm fairly certain that this was raised in tank.
Very light hint of game, red cherry liqueur, Frangelico and pepper. Quite attractive, seductive not overpowering.
Aromatic range expanding significantly with air.
Light/medium-bodied in the mouth, nice fruit sweetness in the mouth, tempered by acid-driven tannin. Flavor inpact is substantial, yet subtle, which sounds ridiculous. Wonderfully idiosyncratic wine, from a woman who painted her winery pink.
This definitely needs air.
Mostly Syrah with a bit of Grenache (I think).
$ 35?
Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1990
Red, garnet rim.
Subtle, savory meat character (duck?), iron, cherry liqueur, forest floor - and sensory overload. I can't articulate everything that's going on aromatically. I'm reminded of Marcassin's '98 Marc Vyd Pinot (the best red wine I have ever tasted).
Iron and tannin in the mouth. This bottle was not cellared properly for several years, and that no doubt contributes to the lack of flesh in the mouth.
It is incredible to me that this wine survived at all, and says a great deal about the longevity of Beaucastel's best vintages.
$?
Subtle, savory meat character (duck?), iron, cherry liqueur, forest floor - and sensory overload. I can't articulate everything that's going on aromatically. I'm reminded of Marcassin's '98 Marc Vyd Pinot (the best red wine I have ever tasted).
Iron and tannin in the mouth. This bottle was not cellared properly for several years, and that no doubt contributes to the lack of flesh in the mouth.
It is incredible to me that this wine survived at all, and says a great deal about the longevity of Beaucastel's best vintages.
$?
Vietti Barbera d'Alba "Scarrone" 2004
Very deep red/purple.
Sumptuous, low-toned, oak spice/smoke, amaretto, savory meat and black fruit aromatics. The oak is very well integrated/seamless.
Interesting. Low-toned oak spice and hard grape candy flavors collide a bit with vibrant, Barbera-typical acidity. Good mid-palate flesh and length. This just needs a bit more time in bottle, but is already drinking very well.
One of the best Barberas I've tasted (Rivetti's included).
Day 4 - Balsamic notes now. Fleshy and integrated. Killer.
$33
Sumptuous, low-toned, oak spice/smoke, amaretto, savory meat and black fruit aromatics. The oak is very well integrated/seamless.
Interesting. Low-toned oak spice and hard grape candy flavors collide a bit with vibrant, Barbera-typical acidity. Good mid-palate flesh and length. This just needs a bit more time in bottle, but is already drinking very well.
One of the best Barberas I've tasted (Rivetti's included).
Day 4 - Balsamic notes now. Fleshy and integrated. Killer.
$33
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Rotes Tor 2005 Federspiel (Austria)
Bright, light yellow.
Vibrant aromas of grapefruit, spice, earth and pepper
Pungent flavors of grapefruit zest and very ripe grapefruit flesh, pear, pepper and a slight lentil note. Seems barely off-dry. Racy, pure and long. No sign of alcohol, just flavor chew. Federspiels are 12.5% and under, I think.
Great summer wine.
$25
Vibrant aromas of grapefruit, spice, earth and pepper
Pungent flavors of grapefruit zest and very ripe grapefruit flesh, pear, pepper and a slight lentil note. Seems barely off-dry. Racy, pure and long. No sign of alcohol, just flavor chew. Federspiels are 12.5% and under, I think.
Great summer wine.
$25
Monday, April 2, 2007
Mogador 2000 Priorat (Spain)
Deep red.
More evolved nose than the Mas Doix - earth, sl. game, smoke, Grenache cherry/strawberry. Seamless and unforced.
Round and relatively generous in the mouth, particularly for Priorat. A characteristic of Mogador. Acidity seems definitely lower here, which makes the abundant tannin distinctly gentler. But Mas Doix, I think, is based on Carignan, which tends to be higher in acidity and less "giving".
Very interesting contrast. Both wines have aged well and will continue to do so. But Mas Doix will benefit the most from extended cellaring.
$50
More evolved nose than the Mas Doix - earth, sl. game, smoke, Grenache cherry/strawberry. Seamless and unforced.
Round and relatively generous in the mouth, particularly for Priorat. A characteristic of Mogador. Acidity seems definitely lower here, which makes the abundant tannin distinctly gentler. But Mas Doix, I think, is based on Carignan, which tends to be higher in acidity and less "giving".
Very interesting contrast. Both wines have aged well and will continue to do so. But Mas Doix will benefit the most from extended cellaring.
$50
Mas Doix 2000 Priorat (Spain)
Vibrant, deep red/purple.
Shoe polish, deep black cherry coulis, myriad spice notes, and smoke on the nose. Beautifully integrated and complex.
Intense middle-weight in the mouth. Spice and red fruit flavors are deep, but linear. Still dominated by acid-driven tannin. But this drinks well now, particularly with some meat (cream/reduction sauce wouldn't hurt either). Better in another 5 years.
I think this needs air.
$55
Shoe polish, deep black cherry coulis, myriad spice notes, and smoke on the nose. Beautifully integrated and complex.
Intense middle-weight in the mouth. Spice and red fruit flavors are deep, but linear. Still dominated by acid-driven tannin. But this drinks well now, particularly with some meat (cream/reduction sauce wouldn't hurt either). Better in another 5 years.
I think this needs air.
$55
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