Saturated purple/red.
In complete contrast to earlier vintages ('98/'99), very sophisticated, pure nose of high-quality oak with deep blackberry jam and clay/earth tucked under.
Quite packed in the mouth, with a confectionary element confronted by a massive wall of grainy tannin that nevertheless comes off as finely rendered. More importantly, flavors ride through this structure as if they are on two different tracks. I have little doubt this will age extremely well.
Another example of a producer with incredibly intense raw materials backing off on extraction (even though this is still wildly structured). My guess is better de-stemmer (lots of whole berries) and lower fermentation temps. Better (finer) barrels too.
Change started in 2000.
Day 2 - The visual clarity and relative fineness of the wines (since 2000) also makes me wonder about (probably light) filtration. This would be another tool to add finesse to wildly concentrated fruit. Forget what the back label says.
Day 4 - Quite confectionary on the nose now, and completely packed in the mouth. Interestingly, this really has little flavor complexity, "just" great depth and purity for a wine this loaded. More of (basically) one thing.
I wonder what what this would be like with some Malvasia for lift and spice?
$50
Friday, June 29, 2007
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Red, rust rim.
Discreet nose of red cherry jam, earth/meat, spice and garrigue/herbal tea. Iron/blood as a late arrival.
Round and mouth-filling. Acid-dominant structure frames flavors immediately, giving the front teeth a good coating of mineral/tannin chew. Quite refined in all aspects, however. Again, there is a suggestion of Pinot in the lightness/fineness of touch without any sacrifice in flavor length. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume" in spades.
No sense of purposeful extraction here.
Beautiful.
Day 4 - End of bottle. A bit more open-knit than day 1, but has lost nothing. The Avrils have little to worry about as long as they kick out wines like this. The New World, myself included, can't match the class (and easy complexity) here (yet).
$50
Discreet nose of red cherry jam, earth/meat, spice and garrigue/herbal tea. Iron/blood as a late arrival.
Round and mouth-filling. Acid-dominant structure frames flavors immediately, giving the front teeth a good coating of mineral/tannin chew. Quite refined in all aspects, however. Again, there is a suggestion of Pinot in the lightness/fineness of touch without any sacrifice in flavor length. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume" in spades.
No sense of purposeful extraction here.
Beautiful.
Day 4 - End of bottle. A bit more open-knit than day 1, but has lost nothing. The Avrils have little to worry about as long as they kick out wines like this. The New World, myself included, can't match the class (and easy complexity) here (yet).
$50
Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa 2003
Yellow.
Creamy, vanilla, oak-dominated nose with some ripe pineapple underneath.
Very plush, oak-influenced flavors. Subtle lemon and pineapple notes also, with mineral chew providing nice framing structure. Very easy-going and delicious. Relatively long, refined oak finish.
This is tasty, but is it any wonder why Riesling sales were up 26% last year? Malvasia and Gruner Veltliner can't be far behind.
Day 2 - I should have realized this needed air time. Dried pineapple and lemon zest, petrol (ironically Riesling-like), sulfide/truffle nose. Still smells creamy. Mineral/sulfide structure is bracing and immediate, with lemon custard flavors a bit dis-jointed in mid-palate. Wild today, nothing easy-going here. I can't remember a wine changing this much in one day.
Day 4 - Petrol now dominates nose, round caramel-enhanced palate, with serious mineral chew in long caramel finish.
$75
Creamy, vanilla, oak-dominated nose with some ripe pineapple underneath.
Very plush, oak-influenced flavors. Subtle lemon and pineapple notes also, with mineral chew providing nice framing structure. Very easy-going and delicious. Relatively long, refined oak finish.
This is tasty, but is it any wonder why Riesling sales were up 26% last year? Malvasia and Gruner Veltliner can't be far behind.
Day 2 - I should have realized this needed air time. Dried pineapple and lemon zest, petrol (ironically Riesling-like), sulfide/truffle nose. Still smells creamy. Mineral/sulfide structure is bracing and immediate, with lemon custard flavors a bit dis-jointed in mid-palate. Wild today, nothing easy-going here. I can't remember a wine changing this much in one day.
Day 4 - Petrol now dominates nose, round caramel-enhanced palate, with serious mineral chew in long caramel finish.
$75
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas 1999
Red with rust rim.
Smoke and salami aromatics.
Very plush entry, round, very suave compared to Bouissiere, but also less concentrated and interesting. I think this has seen a bit of filtration.. No doubt, however, this will appeal to a broader range of folks, as it still wears a brett influence, only more gently, and finely, packaged. Nice, pure, cherry finish.
$25
Smoke and salami aromatics.
Very plush entry, round, very suave compared to Bouissiere, but also less concentrated and interesting. I think this has seen a bit of filtration.. No doubt, however, this will appeal to a broader range of folks, as it still wears a brett influence, only more gently, and finely, packaged. Nice, pure, cherry finish.
$25
Turley Grist Vyd. (Dry Creek) Zinfandel 2002
Deep red.
Lifted, spicy red fruit nose. Exotic wood and meat too. Savory.
Sweet entry, slightly abrasive mid-palate acidity cuts flavor considerably. But it kicks back in, forcibly, on long, acid-enhanced finish.
15.7% alcohol, but seems lower, and quite light-handed in extraction.
$45?
Lifted, spicy red fruit nose. Exotic wood and meat too. Savory.
Sweet entry, slightly abrasive mid-palate acidity cuts flavor considerably. But it kicks back in, forcibly, on long, acid-enhanced finish.
15.7% alcohol, but seems lower, and quite light-handed in extraction.
$45?
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Maurel "Les Galets Blonds" Chateauneuf du Pape 1999
Red, rust rim.
Iron, nuts, meat and red cherry sauce. Expansive compared to the Bouissiere.
Round and relatively generous in the mouth. Blood/iron initially, then garrigue kicks in. Much more giving than the Gigondas,
but there's a wild density in the Bouissiere that I love. Kirsch kicks in on long mildly chewy finish.
Actually a good example of the difference between these two apellations. Gigondas deep, but short on refinement (best examples) - Chateauneuf more suave, heady and fruit-driven.
$30
Iron, nuts, meat and red cherry sauce. Expansive compared to the Bouissiere.
Round and relatively generous in the mouth. Blood/iron initially, then garrigue kicks in. Much more giving than the Gigondas,
but there's a wild density in the Bouissiere that I love. Kirsch kicks in on long mildly chewy finish.
Actually a good example of the difference between these two apellations. Gigondas deep, but short on refinement (best examples) - Chateauneuf more suave, heady and fruit-driven.
$30
Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas 1999
Deep red.
Salami and spicy red fruit nose. Actually quite attractive. Smoke and garrigue nuances too.
Quite concentrated in the mouth, with intense spicy garrigue and root vegetable flavors. Black cherry shows up late. Structured throughout with grainy tannin, but flavor concentration keeps it on the sidelines.
Funny - my first bottles several years ago were hard as nails, and critical reviews were lukewarm. Gave many bottles away.
I'm keeping the rest. This would be great with (again) lamb stew.
Day 3 - Gamey character now in the background, garrigue front and center. My 10 year old says Fuji apple. I'll be damned, but it does smell of cinnamon sprinkled apples (too). But flavors are distinctly beet root and resinous herbs, with slightly aggressive (stem?) tannins. Gigondas as the Cornas of the south?
Packed and totally killer wine. A large, extended middle-finger directed at those looking for seamless, confectionary wines.
$25
Salami and spicy red fruit nose. Actually quite attractive. Smoke and garrigue nuances too.
Quite concentrated in the mouth, with intense spicy garrigue and root vegetable flavors. Black cherry shows up late. Structured throughout with grainy tannin, but flavor concentration keeps it on the sidelines.
Funny - my first bottles several years ago were hard as nails, and critical reviews were lukewarm. Gave many bottles away.
I'm keeping the rest. This would be great with (again) lamb stew.
Day 3 - Gamey character now in the background, garrigue front and center. My 10 year old says Fuji apple. I'll be damned, but it does smell of cinnamon sprinkled apples (too). But flavors are distinctly beet root and resinous herbs, with slightly aggressive (stem?) tannins. Gigondas as the Cornas of the south?
Packed and totally killer wine. A large, extended middle-finger directed at those looking for seamless, confectionary wines.
$25
Monday, June 25, 2007
Prager "Bodenstein" Riesling Smaragd 2004 (Austria)
Pale yellow.
Some CO2 evolution masking nose a bit. Grapefruit and a (hazel?)nut note.
Pure and racy in the mouth, with a bit of RS slightly taming the acid/mineral chew in the very long, stony finish. A bit severe now, but citrus zest flavor rides through the entire experience.
From a little-known site. Apparently nobody thought anything could ripen at this altitude (400 meters), but Prager's son-in-law (Bodenstein) proved them wrong.
Day 4 - Poached pear and lemon flesh now. Deeply flavored, and a bit oxidative too (as should be expected). Still stony in the finish. This will drink well for many years.
$40?
Some CO2 evolution masking nose a bit. Grapefruit and a (hazel?)nut note.
Pure and racy in the mouth, with a bit of RS slightly taming the acid/mineral chew in the very long, stony finish. A bit severe now, but citrus zest flavor rides through the entire experience.
From a little-known site. Apparently nobody thought anything could ripen at this altitude (400 meters), but Prager's son-in-law (Bodenstein) proved them wrong.
Day 4 - Poached pear and lemon flesh now. Deeply flavored, and a bit oxidative too (as should be expected). Still stony in the finish. This will drink well for many years.
$40?
Sunday, June 24, 2007
Pax "Venus" Bennett Valley (Sonoma) 2005
Pale yellow.
Nose of straw and unripe, spicy, peppery pear. Is this quince (never tried it)? A notion of custard too.
Huge, broad palate-impact, almost Marsanne-like in the way it takes over the mouth. Spicy/chewy structural component cuts right through it, however, to provide great counterweight. Long spicy/chewy finish. I think a sulfide edge contributes here too.
I hated my first bottle of this wine about six months ago, but either I was whacked or the wine just needed time.
This was opened yesterday.
From Pax's newsletter - this has a pH over 4 (which means no effective acidity) and is 100% Roussanne. 13.8% alcohol
Killer.
$45?
Nose of straw and unripe, spicy, peppery pear. Is this quince (never tried it)? A notion of custard too.
Huge, broad palate-impact, almost Marsanne-like in the way it takes over the mouth. Spicy/chewy structural component cuts right through it, however, to provide great counterweight. Long spicy/chewy finish. I think a sulfide edge contributes here too.
I hated my first bottle of this wine about six months ago, but either I was whacked or the wine just needed time.
This was opened yesterday.
From Pax's newsletter - this has a pH over 4 (which means no effective acidity) and is 100% Roussanne. 13.8% alcohol
Killer.
$45?
Mas Doix "Salanques" 2003 Priorat (Spain)
Bright red.
Nose tells you this is (probably) Garnacha-based - spicy red cherry/raspberry, earth, cinnamon and a lifted mint note.
Pure and nuanced.
Garnacha sweetness in the mouth too, at least initially. Loads of red fruit/liqueur before acid-driven structure rolls in like a wave. Tannin hits late. Amazingly, red fruit character survives and continues into the long, subtle finish.
Mas Doix' 2nd wine.
$40
Nose tells you this is (probably) Garnacha-based - spicy red cherry/raspberry, earth, cinnamon and a lifted mint note.
Pure and nuanced.
Garnacha sweetness in the mouth too, at least initially. Loads of red fruit/liqueur before acid-driven structure rolls in like a wave. Tannin hits late. Amazingly, red fruit character survives and continues into the long, subtle finish.
Mas Doix' 2nd wine.
$40
Julia Roch e Hilos "Las Gravas" Jumilla 2000
Deep red/purple, some rim evolution.
Packed, dense nose - shoe polish, earth/brick, and very spicy blackberry/black cherry and black olive.
Relatively expansive entry, then structure clamps down in mid-palate. Everything about this wine is intense, much like the "Mira" 2000 bottling blogged earlier. But this is more expressive. Best with lamb stew.
70% un-grafted Monastrell on gravel, 15% each Cabernet and Syrah.
This was opened yesterday.
$22
Packed, dense nose - shoe polish, earth/brick, and very spicy blackberry/black cherry and black olive.
Relatively expansive entry, then structure clamps down in mid-palate. Everything about this wine is intense, much like the "Mira" 2000 bottling blogged earlier. But this is more expressive. Best with lamb stew.
70% un-grafted Monastrell on gravel, 15% each Cabernet and Syrah.
This was opened yesterday.
$22
Friday, June 22, 2007
Copain "Madder Lake" Lake County Syrah 2004
Deep purple/red.
Menthol, licorice and Gouda nose.
Plush entry immediately tempered by gripping stem tannin. Intense, but quite bound up. There's black fruit underneath the structure, but seen intermittently, in and out of the fog.
Again, this is an interesting style. This is full of aromatic and (potential) flavor life, but has almost no acidity (so I read - pHs in the 4.0 range). Stem inclusion adds a lift to the aromatics and an impression of acidity that isn't there (or is the TA high too).
A whopping 14.2% alcohol.
Lake County itself is an interesting place. A CA region with altitude and tannic density.
$25
Menthol, licorice and Gouda nose.
Plush entry immediately tempered by gripping stem tannin. Intense, but quite bound up. There's black fruit underneath the structure, but seen intermittently, in and out of the fog.
Again, this is an interesting style. This is full of aromatic and (potential) flavor life, but has almost no acidity (so I read - pHs in the 4.0 range). Stem inclusion adds a lift to the aromatics and an impression of acidity that isn't there (or is the TA high too).
A whopping 14.2% alcohol.
Lake County itself is an interesting place. A CA region with altitude and tannic density.
$25
Laderas de Pinoso "El Seque" Alicante, Spain 1999
Deep red.
Clay, toast, black olive, dried fig and spice aromatics.
Intense spicy entry, then bound up with chewy (front teeth) tannin that drowns out mid-palate flavor.
Mostly Monastrell (Mourvedre) from the guy who also owns Artadi in Rioja.
This is a good candidate for extra air time.
Day 5 - This has integrated beautifully, structure still there, but in the background. Slow-roasted meat, figs and spice.
$20
Clay, toast, black olive, dried fig and spice aromatics.
Intense spicy entry, then bound up with chewy (front teeth) tannin that drowns out mid-palate flavor.
Mostly Monastrell (Mourvedre) from the guy who also owns Artadi in Rioja.
This is a good candidate for extra air time.
Day 5 - This has integrated beautifully, structure still there, but in the background. Slow-roasted meat, figs and spice.
$20
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Marcassin Marcassin Vyd. Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2001
Dull red.
Aromatic stew - oak spice, slow-roasted meat and earth with red cherry and red licorice underneath.
Mouth-coating creaminess that is quickly cut short by aggressive acidity. Tannin is light. Overall impression is that this doesn't have the flamboyant complexity or concentrated core of the best bottlings of this wine.
Air may help, but I doubt it.
$100
Aromatic stew - oak spice, slow-roasted meat and earth with red cherry and red licorice underneath.
Mouth-coating creaminess that is quickly cut short by aggressive acidity. Tannin is light. Overall impression is that this doesn't have the flamboyant complexity or concentrated core of the best bottlings of this wine.
Air may help, but I doubt it.
$100
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Clarendon Hills Hickinbotham Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Clarendon, Australia)
Deep red, some rim evolution.
A floral lift in the nose, then toasted nuts, deep black fruit verging on prunes/black olive jam. Not all that dissimilar from his Syrahs.
Plush, concentrated entry, grainy tannin immediately evident. Really packed, but not yet giving up the goods. A bit saline. Structure really builds. Certainly has the concentration to support many years in bottle.
I'm not particularly thrilled by this, however. Apparently 2001 was a very hot vintage - it shows. There is no freshness/life to the fruit character here. I assume these are dry-farmed vines.
$50
A floral lift in the nose, then toasted nuts, deep black fruit verging on prunes/black olive jam. Not all that dissimilar from his Syrahs.
Plush, concentrated entry, grainy tannin immediately evident. Really packed, but not yet giving up the goods. A bit saline. Structure really builds. Certainly has the concentration to support many years in bottle.
I'm not particularly thrilled by this, however. Apparently 2001 was a very hot vintage - it shows. There is no freshness/life to the fruit character here. I assume these are dry-farmed vines.
$50
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Saxum "Rocket Block" Paso Robles 2003
Saturated purple/red.
Damp earth, oak spice, vibrant black fruit, very dense nose.
Utterly creamy/confectionary in the mouth. Absolutely packed/concentrated - great density of flavor (black raspberry). Also has a fine, strong, structural element of acid-driven, finely-grained tannin. A bit of heat here, but who cares? Length of flavor blows through it. Very finely rendered for a wine with 16.6% alcohol.
"Paso" style cubed.
50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah
Day 3 - Now disjointed and showing its alcohol. Seems best to drink this over the next 3-4 years.
$70
Damp earth, oak spice, vibrant black fruit, very dense nose.
Utterly creamy/confectionary in the mouth. Absolutely packed/concentrated - great density of flavor (black raspberry). Also has a fine, strong, structural element of acid-driven, finely-grained tannin. A bit of heat here, but who cares? Length of flavor blows through it. Very finely rendered for a wine with 16.6% alcohol.
"Paso" style cubed.
50% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah
Day 3 - Now disjointed and showing its alcohol. Seems best to drink this over the next 3-4 years.
$70
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Pax Syrah "Cuvee Keltie" North Coast 2003
Opaque purple.
Extremely deep nose of menthol, black licorice, cumin, sausage and black olive jam.
Sweet and tangy simultaneously - with broad flavor impact competing with forceful, edgy stem tannin. Great concentration.
This would be a great ringer in a blind '03 Northern Rhone tasting. I'm glad I have more of this.
100% stem inclusion (I think), from several vineyards, finished in older oak (I think).
14.8% alcohol - one of the lowest of the Pax '03s.
$70
Extremely deep nose of menthol, black licorice, cumin, sausage and black olive jam.
Sweet and tangy simultaneously - with broad flavor impact competing with forceful, edgy stem tannin. Great concentration.
This would be a great ringer in a blind '03 Northern Rhone tasting. I'm glad I have more of this.
100% stem inclusion (I think), from several vineyards, finished in older oak (I think).
14.8% alcohol - one of the lowest of the Pax '03s.
$70
Friday, June 15, 2007
Lone Madrone "Bollo" Paso Robles 2002
Light red/rust.
Light oak char, cherry jam, earth, cinnamon. Much more interesting than 3 hours ago.
Broad initial palate-impression is immediately tempered by alcohol and acid-driven tannin in the mid-palate. Coconut makes an appearance, and then structure really dominates the finish. I have no idea where this is going.
100% Nebbiolo, aged three years in a single 500 liter puncheon. From Neil Collins, winemaker at Tablas Creek.
$60?
Light oak char, cherry jam, earth, cinnamon. Much more interesting than 3 hours ago.
Broad initial palate-impression is immediately tempered by alcohol and acid-driven tannin in the mid-palate. Coconut makes an appearance, and then structure really dominates the finish. I have no idea where this is going.
100% Nebbiolo, aged three years in a single 500 liter puncheon. From Neil Collins, winemaker at Tablas Creek.
$60?
La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru "Grande Cuvee" 2004
Platinum/yellow.
Discreet nose of minerals and almond (or is it hazelnut?) paste.
Intense lemon zest, mineral and nut flavors repeating. Chewy/stony finish is very long and vibrant.
This is a ridiculous value.
$16
Discreet nose of minerals and almond (or is it hazelnut?) paste.
Intense lemon zest, mineral and nut flavors repeating. Chewy/stony finish is very long and vibrant.
This is a ridiculous value.
$16
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Hartford "Highwire" Zinfandel 2004 (RRV)
Purple/red.
Fragrant, fresh nose - red raspberry, cola, earth and oak spice.
Sweet entry of raspberry liqueur ( very ripe fruit - 16.2%), then a bit spiky in the mid-palate and finish. Acidity is sound, with light tannin.
Day 2 - Very attractive, but the acidity here really clamps down in the finish. Not sure this will ever sing.
$30
Fragrant, fresh nose - red raspberry, cola, earth and oak spice.
Sweet entry of raspberry liqueur ( very ripe fruit - 16.2%), then a bit spiky in the mid-palate and finish. Acidity is sound, with light tannin.
Day 2 - Very attractive, but the acidity here really clamps down in the finish. Not sure this will ever sing.
$30
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Ravenswood Monte Rosso Zinfandel 2002
Deep purple/red.
Deep, spicy, Priorat-like (even a suggestion of shoe polish) black fruit nose. Intense, penetrating, linear nose.
Great old-vine textural sweetness, with a balsa wood character, pepper and a huge chewy finish. I've had many bottles of this, and it never disappoints. The only crappy bottles I've had from Monte Rosso fruit were from idiots who thought they could "improve" it with 100% new oak.
$26?
Deep, spicy, Priorat-like (even a suggestion of shoe polish) black fruit nose. Intense, penetrating, linear nose.
Great old-vine textural sweetness, with a balsa wood character, pepper and a huge chewy finish. I've had many bottles of this, and it never disappoints. The only crappy bottles I've had from Monte Rosso fruit were from idiots who thought they could "improve" it with 100% new oak.
$26?
Havens Hudson Vyd Syrah (Carneros) 1999
Deep, saturated purple/red.
Musky, toasted nut, gamey/meaty nose.
Intense middle-weight in the mouth. Very nice breadth in the mouth, with solid acid/tannin spine that eliminates any sense of fat without killing flavor intensity. This is quite interesting - does this simply need time, or is it, at 7.5 years, as good as it will get? Fortunately, I have a few more bottles. We'll see.
Undoubtedly Old World in style.
Day 3- Now doing the breakfast sausage/bacon thing. This has a great core of flavor, and serious structure to boot. This may improve with 5-7 more years.
$35
Musky, toasted nut, gamey/meaty nose.
Intense middle-weight in the mouth. Very nice breadth in the mouth, with solid acid/tannin spine that eliminates any sense of fat without killing flavor intensity. This is quite interesting - does this simply need time, or is it, at 7.5 years, as good as it will get? Fortunately, I have a few more bottles. We'll see.
Undoubtedly Old World in style.
Day 3- Now doing the breakfast sausage/bacon thing. This has a great core of flavor, and serious structure to boot. This may improve with 5-7 more years.
$35
Hartford "Three Jacks Vineyard" Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2004
Pale, hazy yellow.
Bright, meal, slight sulfide/truffle, caramel nose. Lemon underneath. Well-delineated.
Intense and nicely concentrated in the mouth, with lemon, caramel and truffle flavors intertwined. Lacks only the depth of flavor and "chew" of the best North Coast Chardonnays. On the other hand, many will prefer this to wines from Marcassin. for instance, for exactly that reason.
$50
Bright, meal, slight sulfide/truffle, caramel nose. Lemon underneath. Well-delineated.
Intense and nicely concentrated in the mouth, with lemon, caramel and truffle flavors intertwined. Lacks only the depth of flavor and "chew" of the best North Coast Chardonnays. On the other hand, many will prefer this to wines from Marcassin. for instance, for exactly that reason.
$50
Monday, June 11, 2007
Tatiarra Shiraz Heathcote "Cambrian" 2003
Deep purple/red.
Molasses, toasted nut and spice nose.
Intense in the mouth, very spicy, with tannin dominating mid-palate. This was opened at the winery a few hours ago and showed a vivid boysenberry/black raspberry character. Fruit hiding now. This is obviously structured for the long haul.
Made by Ben Riggs from fruit grown on 500 million year old soil.
$45
Molasses, toasted nut and spice nose.
Intense in the mouth, very spicy, with tannin dominating mid-palate. This was opened at the winery a few hours ago and showed a vivid boysenberry/black raspberry character. Fruit hiding now. This is obviously structured for the long haul.
Made by Ben Riggs from fruit grown on 500 million year old soil.
$45
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Kunin Viognier Stolpman Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley 2004
Pale yellow.
Seems a bit saline on the nose, with very ripe apple, almond and pear. Quite different from earlier Kunin vintages.
Sweet initial impression with saline character quite prominent. Good flesh, without any overt sweetness from the mid-palate on. Finishes on a metallic note. This is a wild one, and consistent with another bottle 6 months ago.
Seems like it has Roussanne or Marsanne blended in.
$25
Seems a bit saline on the nose, with very ripe apple, almond and pear. Quite different from earlier Kunin vintages.
Sweet initial impression with saline character quite prominent. Good flesh, without any overt sweetness from the mid-palate on. Finishes on a metallic note. This is a wild one, and consistent with another bottle 6 months ago.
Seems like it has Roussanne or Marsanne blended in.
$25
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Mitolo "GAM" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2002
Opaque purple/red.
Toasted nut, sausage, wilted greens and blackberry liqueur nose.
Round and generous in the mouth, but distinctly middle-weight as acid and finely-grained tannin clamp down post mid-palate. Nice flavor follow through, with subtle finishing length.
Bordeaux bottle, Bordeaux feel.
screwcap
$50
Toasted nut, sausage, wilted greens and blackberry liqueur nose.
Round and generous in the mouth, but distinctly middle-weight as acid and finely-grained tannin clamp down post mid-palate. Nice flavor follow through, with subtle finishing length.
Bordeaux bottle, Bordeaux feel.
screwcap
$50
Friday, June 8, 2007
Falesco "Marciliano" Cabernet Umbria 2003
Deep purple/red.
Packed nose of high-quality toasted oak, Bordeaux herb and deep black fruit.
Initially round, packed palate, concentrated, tannic. Medicinal austerity, driven by acid-enhanced, plentiful tannins. Bound up and in need of several years of cellaring. This will be interesting to watch over the next decade.
Day 3 - Very impressive, but this lacks lift/freshness. No doubt this is a vintage characteristic. I'd drink over the next five years.
$50
Packed nose of high-quality toasted oak, Bordeaux herb and deep black fruit.
Initially round, packed palate, concentrated, tannic. Medicinal austerity, driven by acid-enhanced, plentiful tannins. Bound up and in need of several years of cellaring. This will be interesting to watch over the next decade.
Day 3 - Very impressive, but this lacks lift/freshness. No doubt this is a vintage characteristic. I'd drink over the next five years.
$50
Hacienda Monasterio Ribera del Duero 1998
Deep red, evolved rim.
Sumptuous, complex nose - earth/clay, brown sugar/oak spice, candied cherry, slow-roasted meat and a fresh herb (mint?) note.
Middle-weight in the mouth, but has nice breadth of flavor. Flavor core includes wilted herbs, iron and a custard character typical of Monasterio. Still loaded with structure, but it doesn't impede flavor flow. Tannin seems distinctly softer than a bottle a year ago.
$28
Sumptuous, complex nose - earth/clay, brown sugar/oak spice, candied cherry, slow-roasted meat and a fresh herb (mint?) note.
Middle-weight in the mouth, but has nice breadth of flavor. Flavor core includes wilted herbs, iron and a custard character typical of Monasterio. Still loaded with structure, but it doesn't impede flavor flow. Tannin seems distinctly softer than a bottle a year ago.
$28
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2000
Deep purple/red.
Melded nose - mint/eucalyptus, meat/breakfast sausage, earth and vibrant blackberry. This would be an interesting ringer in a top Australian Shiraz tasting. Quite delineated, no hint of fat on the nose. Suave toasted nut and brown sugar nuances underneath from good barrels (Sirugue, 100% new).
Lively in the mouth, too. Intense attack, dominated by blackberry and eucalyptus. A bit bound up in the middle. This definitely needs air time. Interestingly, Thackrey thinks this is mostly Syrah, but others believe the vineyard is primarily Petite Sirah.
Day 3 - This hasn't developed as I thought it would. Still bound up and showing a bit of oxidation. This bottle from a retailer - will try another direct from Thackrey.
$75
Melded nose - mint/eucalyptus, meat/breakfast sausage, earth and vibrant blackberry. This would be an interesting ringer in a top Australian Shiraz tasting. Quite delineated, no hint of fat on the nose. Suave toasted nut and brown sugar nuances underneath from good barrels (Sirugue, 100% new).
Lively in the mouth, too. Intense attack, dominated by blackberry and eucalyptus. A bit bound up in the middle. This definitely needs air time. Interestingly, Thackrey thinks this is mostly Syrah, but others believe the vineyard is primarily Petite Sirah.
Day 3 - This hasn't developed as I thought it would. Still bound up and showing a bit of oxidation. This bottle from a retailer - will try another direct from Thackrey.
$75
Monday, June 4, 2007
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2002
Straw/yellow, slight haze. Hard to believe this is a 2002.
Smoke, popcorn, truffle/sulfide nose.
Luxurious sweetness (ripe fruit, not sugar) on entry, with sulfide/custard/lemon flavors coursing through caramel-enhanced finish. I also get subtle mineral and iron notes. This bottling always seems to have a sensuous textural character, with no sense of weight.
This rips it up.
$85
Smoke, popcorn, truffle/sulfide nose.
Luxurious sweetness (ripe fruit, not sugar) on entry, with sulfide/custard/lemon flavors coursing through caramel-enhanced finish. I also get subtle mineral and iron notes. This bottling always seems to have a sensuous textural character, with no sense of weight.
This rips it up.
$85
Sunday, June 3, 2007
Haart Piesport Goldtropfchen Kabinett 2005
Straw.
White nectarine and spiced apple aromas.
Fleshy and quite sweet for a Kabinett, but the vivid, fresh flavors of nectarine, peach, apple and mango are killer. Refreshing, framing acidity kicks in from the mid-palate on. Good length.
I suppose some would ask where the mineral/rock action is, but who cares? Major bonefest.
$17
White nectarine and spiced apple aromas.
Fleshy and quite sweet for a Kabinett, but the vivid, fresh flavors of nectarine, peach, apple and mango are killer. Refreshing, framing acidity kicks in from the mid-palate on. Good length.
I suppose some would ask where the mineral/rock action is, but who cares? Major bonefest.
$17
Friday, June 1, 2007
Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2005
Light yellow.
Lemon, very ripe pineapple, almond extract. Expressive, particularly for CdP white.
Dense, but middle-weight feel. Acid/mineral chew from mid-palate through the finish. Pineapple front and center, with lime and exotic fruit on the side. Subtle sulfide nuance kicks in on the finish. Something here reminds me of the Naiades Verdejo.
This has a significant percentage of Clairette, 40%, I think.
$38
Lemon, very ripe pineapple, almond extract. Expressive, particularly for CdP white.
Dense, but middle-weight feel. Acid/mineral chew from mid-palate through the finish. Pineapple front and center, with lime and exotic fruit on the side. Subtle sulfide nuance kicks in on the finish. Something here reminds me of the Naiades Verdejo.
This has a significant percentage of Clairette, 40%, I think.
$38
Kaesler Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Deep purple/red.
Deep, expressive Cabernet "weedy" nose with chocolate and black fruit underneath. Smells like very ripe Cabernet Franc.
Round, mouthfilling, seamless. Acid tries to clamp down in the mid-palate but, fortunately, fails. Decent length and certainly not complex. But this is incredibly tasty.
$25
Deep, expressive Cabernet "weedy" nose with chocolate and black fruit underneath. Smells like very ripe Cabernet Franc.
Round, mouthfilling, seamless. Acid tries to clamp down in the mid-palate but, fortunately, fails. Decent length and certainly not complex. But this is incredibly tasty.
$25
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
