Wednesday, October 31, 2007

The Standish Shiraz Barossa Valley 2001

Opaque purple/red.

Old-school nose shows no overt sign of new oak. Deep aromas of spicy fig/date, steak and earth.

Deep and packed in the mouth, similar to the Alban, but this shows no extraneous sweetness (Alban listed at 15.9% alcohol, Standish listed at 14.5%). This, though, has a difficult time delivering in the mouth, at least at this point. Grainy tannin, earth and fig/date flavors.

This was also opened yesterday.

If I remember correctly, 2001 was a very hot vintage in South Australia.


$65

Alban "Tithings" Edna Valley 2002

Saturated purple/black.

Extremely deep black olive, spicy fig, earth, blood orange and toasty oak aromas.

Creamy and packed in the mouth, but doesn't have the clarity of flavor, complexity or length of his best stuff. Splitting hairs. This was opened last night, and has really benefited from the air time. Layered, with acidity, ultimately, intruding to kill flavor.

I'm not sure what this is - but it must have a substantial Syrah component.

$50?

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Ogier Cote Rotie 2001

Red.

Sumptuous, mouth-watering nose of woodsmoke, sausage, grilled herbs and 5 spice powder. Killer.

Utterly round in the mouth, with no immediately obvious structure, but you don't miss it either. "Internally" structured, as this slowly shows its backbone. Very much a middle-weight, ultimately, with absolutely no excess weight. In the end, this is acid-dominant. Beautifully rendered wine, and a great example of (modern) Cote Rotie. Long, subtle stuff. No need to drink this soon.


$75

Capafons-Osso, Mas de Masos, Priorat 2000

Red/purple.

Deep, vibrant nose that seems to be a calling card for Priorat. Shoe polish, leather, earth, meat and deep black fruit.

Sweet entry that is lightly buffered by acidity and mild tannin that, believe it or not, hit the bottom of the tongue. Really good textural depth/concentration, round and mouth-filling, with mineral thrust in the finish.

This makes me want to re-think everything I thought I "knew" about Priorat. This was incredibly bound up structurally a few years ago. I couldn't believe it would ever "shake the fun stuff", so to speak. But it is indeed shaking booty, maybe other "stuff" too.

$36

Turley, Dragon Vyd. Howell Mtn. Zinfandel 2005

Red.

Spicy, red fruit nose dominated by balsa wood character. Hint of celery, ketchup and alcohol.

Remarkably similar in the mouth. Plush entry, with edgy acidity framing flavors. Ketchup aspect reminds me of some Spanish Garnachas. Intensely flavored, but, ultimately, a bit lean. I'd drain this soon, with some real food (protein and fat, both from an unlucky animal).


$35?

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Juan Gil, Monastrell, Jumilla 2005

Deep red/purple.

Earth/loam, blackberry, spice and a hint of cream on the deep, attractive nose.

Creamy, lush entry immediately buffered by acid/tannin synergy that is in keeping with the depth of fruit. This is ridiculously refined and deep for a wine that is so inexpensive. Credit old (paid off/cheap) vineyards, and a hospitable climate. Or just enjoy a stupid value, particularly in view of the weak dollar.

100% Monastrell (Mourvedre)

$15

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Mas Romani, La Basseta, Priorat 2004

Deep, pure red.

Pure and vibrant on the nose too. Hint of shoe polish and creamy red cherry.

Really nice breadth in the mouth, atypical for Priorat, particularly one based on Carignan. A pool of red cherry jam that is very much in line with the Pegau '03, although this is not as packed. It is interesting that this is made with the "guidance" of Michel Tardieu of Tardieu-Laurent. Like Mogador, made by a French guy, this wine has a natural feel and textural "give" that is often lacking in Priorat.

50% old Carignan, 40% Grenache, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah


$55

Alto Landon, Manchuela (Spain) 2004

Deep purple/red.

Sexy oak, hint of coconut and creamy nose that reminds me (a bit) of the Marquis-Philips wines from Oz. More restraint here, though, with a black fruit character that is deep, but not confectionary.

Much tighter in the mouth, with fairly strong acidity making an immediate impression, as does a cinnamon (oak) note. In fact, it's hard to find any fruit. The dominant impression is one of acid-driven constriction. We'll see what air time does.

60% Syrah/40% Merlot (?)

$35

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape 2003

Deep red.

Deep nose that also manages to be pure and nuanced - garrigue, blood, cherry jam, toast (as far as I know, Pegau uses only old oak), chocolate and mint. This continues to change in the glass.

Over-sized in the mouth - huge cherry jam and garrigue entry that is absolutely killer, with structure to boot. Absolutely packed with flavor that shows no extraneous sweetness due to strong acidity and moderate tannin.

Just stupid. This will be mind-altering for another two decades, or more. Jesus.


Day 4 - Moderately intense nose - but it hints at a wine with enormous, reduction sauce-like concentration. Garrigue and cherry jam dominate. Still round, sweet and utterly packed in the mouth. No let up here, very slight heat on the finish. Tannin is reasonably suave, and, interestingly, coats only the front teeth.

I'll repeat myself, this is just stupid. Buy it.

$60 - 80

Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000

Red/purple.

Sausage, earth, blood, fennel, red cherry - this seems like a hybrid - north and south.

Similar in the mouth, with a charry character (not from new oak), grilled herbs, and a cherry liqueur nuance buried deep.
Packed, but hardly typical CdP. Which is interesting - this wine is based on Grenache due to that variety's success in 2000. So, if any vintage of Beaucastel might be considered CdP typical, this is it.

Wild stuff, and will be better with another 5 years in the bottle.


Day 4 - Prunes, earth and dried figs aromatically - similar to Monastrells from Jumilla. Red cherry in the mouth, with leather, spices and earth in the mouth. This hasn't really fattened up with air. But I've yet to see a strong vintage of Beaucastel that hasn't improved dramatically with 10+ years in the bottle.

$50

Clarendon Hills, Roma's, Grenache 2001

Red/purple.

Deep, almost "thick" nose of praline and Brazil nut. A hint of black fruit.

Much more of a middle-weight than it was a few years ago, but this still has a blackberry core of fruit. Hard to believe that a New-World Grenache is in a dumb phase, but I think this is. Concentrated to the hilt, but everything in reserve now. Textural sweetness still evident as is plentiful, but finely-grained, tannin.

I wonder just when this thing will sing? Maybe 4-6 more years?

Day 4 - Nut aromatics now balanced by black raspberry confection. Much sweeter in the mouth too, but not nearly as full as it was a few years ago. Just a bit of heat on the long fruit-filled finish.


$75

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero 2004

Opaque purple/red.

Packed nose - earth, figs, spice and, quite unusual for RdD, citrus. Great, multi-dimensional nose. Not as suave as Villacreces, but much more complex.

Great concentration in the mouth too. Really packed with grainy black fruit and spice flavors. Oak here is barely noticeable as such. Chewy and long. Loaded, but slightly rustic.

Same old story - textural seamlessness/simplicity vs. complexity/rusticity.


Day 3 - This simply has a great deal more raw material than the Villacreces, which relies on sexy barrels to do the "smoke and mirrors" thing. It is interesting to note the discrepancy in scores from the independent critics :

Josh Raynolds (Tanzer/International Wine Cellar) both wines 90/100

Jay Miller (Parker/Wine Advocate) Villacreces 95/100, Condado 91/100

I'd give Condado at least a 2 point advantage.

$25

Villacreces Ribera del Duero 2004

Deep purple/red.

Remarkably suave, oak-influenced nose (Darnajou?) that reminds me that Sisseck used to/still does work here. Typical clay/earth and baked black fruit/pudding fruit. Low-toned and sumptuous nose.

Round and a bit creamy, but really has an underlying, acid-driven, spine keeping everything in place from the get go. Very even structural impression throughout. This needs time - say 4-5 years - to strut. Excellent winemaking, not to mention raw materials, here.


$45

Monday, October 15, 2007

Prager Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 2004 (Austria)

Light yellow.

Slightly pungent citrus and white grape jelly aromas, with a spicy undercurrent.

Immediately intense in the mouth - grapefruit/lemon zest, rocks with major phenolic/mineral chew coating everything in the mouth. This must have a decent bit of residual sugar, but it gets buried in rocks. With air, citrus goes from zest to flesh in flavor (and back again).

Killer.

$40?

Kellerei Cantina Tramin, Pinot Bianco dell'Alto Adige 2006

Straw.

Ripe, spiced apple and pear nose.

Fullish, even a hint of fruit sweetness in the mouth, with flavors mirroring the nose. Nice acidity keeps things bright, but is unobtrusive. Delicious stuff.

Drink this soon - synthetic cork.

$15

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Graham's Vintage Porto 2000

Deep purple/red.

Brandy, damp earth and herb/stem spice aromatics. Pools of black fruit underneath.

Huge, sweet palate impression, not unexpected, with a garrigue/Chateauneuf-ish quality that is, but probably shouldn't be. Most Vintage Port is not de-stemmed. Long, sweet, chewy finish. This is nowhere near prime-time.


$30/375ml ?

Palacios-Remondo Propriedad Rioja 2005

Purple/red.

Suave, toasty oak-influenced nose. Herbs, raspberry and clay/earth underneath.

Creamy entry, with everything in place/harmonious. Beautiful integration of every aspect of the wine. Acidity slightly high, but will age very well. Not at all a powerhouse.

Wonderful example of a "modern" Rioja.


$40

Las Rocas Garnacha, Catalayud (Spain) 2005

Bright red.

Vibrant red fruit (cran/raspberry) and citrus nose, with garrigue and spice underneath.

Flavors follow nose, with nice textural sweetness framed by fairly strong acidity. Flavors flow through unimpeded, however.
Delicious stuff.

Synthetic cork - drink over the next year.


$10

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Thackrey Sirius (Petite Sirah) Eaglepoint Ranch 2004

Opaque purple/red.

Lifted, vibrant nose of blackberry, eucalyptus and a hint of pepper.

Almost sweet and confectionary in the mouth (this was opened yesterday), with fresh, pure blackberry and eucalyptus flavors.
A decent bit of tannin here, but remarkably refined, particularly for PS.

$50

Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Origines" 2000

Deep red.

Smoke, seared meat, earth and tomato aromatics.

Round, plush, mouth-filling entry immediately tempered by grainy, both sides of the teeth, tannin. Still a bit bound up, but flavor rides through the mid-palate reasonably well. Not a great deal of fruit to work with here - it will be interesting to see how this responds to air.


$25

Pax Syrah Lauterbach Hill RRV 2005

Deep red/purple.

Menthol, melted licorice, olive and sausage aromatics. "Thick" nose.

Great density in the mouth, grainy tannin, alcohol lowish. Nice breadth of flavor and framing acidity. This needs time to express, but everything seems to be in place for a positive cellar journey. Blackberry finish.


$50

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Copain Cailloux & Coccinelle Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2003

Deep, hazy red.

Breakfast sausage (Jimmy Dean?), licorice, menthol, wilted greens on the nose - this should be served with eggs and a tortilla.

Absolutely packed with flavor in the mouth - black raspberry the only addition from what the nose yields. Great sweetness that flies under the radar, the main impression is one of tremendous, grainy, concentration of flavor. In fact, this is very similar to the impression of the Bastide Blanche of a couple of days ago.

This is stupidly good, and so not "New-World". I would love to throw this in a blind tasting of Northern Rhones. The "experts"
would eat major dookie.


$35

Ridge, Lytton Springs 2002

Deep red/purple.

Deep, shoe polish, black raspberry jam, earth and pungent spice aromatics. Once again, an old-vine Zin that reminds me a bit of Priorat, albeit a slightly baked version.

Round, sweet textural entry, with structure going largely unnoticed at the mouth's periphery. Pools of black raspberry jam and spice flavors that sound acidity and moderate tannin keep in check. Even a suggestion of minerality. This is really good action.


$28

Saturday, October 6, 2007

Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros, 2002

Pale yellow.

Almond paste, poached apple and a leesy nuance on the nose.

Intense, mineral-laden entry, with pungent lemon, almond and crushed rock flavors. Huge, chewy finish that goes on and on.
Coats every tooth in the mouth.

Jesus - this is killer.

$50

Brewer-Clifton, Pinot Noir, Ashley's, Santa Rita Hills 2005

Light red.

Bright cherry and earth/stem spice aromatics. Slight jalapeno, but nicely integrated.

Round, sweet, mouthfilling entry that nevertheless manages to be framed gently, on all sides, by good acidity and mild tannin. Alcohol is a bit elevated, but doesn't dam up flavor flow. Ethereal.

15.1% listed alcohol

$60

Monday, October 1, 2007

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage, 1999

Purple/red.

Grilled herbs/wilted greens, smoke, fig jam aromatics.

Wilted greens, constricted, acid-driven structure that will give up more goodies with some air time.

Day 3 - This isn't giving it up, actually. The green note is now cooked and off-putting.


$18

Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 2001 Bandol

Purple/red.

Deep menthol, blackberry, spices, clay/earth and even a suggestion of citrus skin on the nose.

Remarkably plush for such a deep Bandol. Much tighter in the mouth, but absolutely packed with flavor. This has to be one of the greatest values around. Cellar this for several more years

15.5 % alcohol on the label.

Earl Bronzo is a stud.

Day 3 - Deep black olive, prune and clay nose. Packed in the mouth (still) with a grainy concentration that is hard to find these days. Long and chewy. Anyone got a lamb shank?

$25? Just stupid.

Arietta, Variation One, Napa Valley 2001

Purple/red.

Menthol, spicy black fruit and a high-toned whiff of VA.

Aggressive in the mouth, despite an early plush feel. The VA here must be quite high - and very distracting. I'm having a terrible time with these wines. Glad I dropped them.

Day 3 - Showing some textural sweetness now, but VA is still a distraction throughout the experience.


$75

Joan D'Anguera, "El Bugader", Montsant (Spain), 2001

Opaque purple/red.

Considerable oak influence on the nose, which manages to come off as attractive. Smoky, meaty, slightly green Cabernet influence adds to the aromatic complexity. Smells deep.

Relatively plush and quite concentrated in the mouth. Flavors of black fruits, oak spice, rocks and black olive. Tight, linear finish can't kill flavor flow.

From an area adjacent to Priorat, just outside of Barcelona. 70% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Grenache.


$40

Clerico, Barolo, Ginestra, 1996

Red with garnet rim.

Toasted oak/nuts, cherry, a balsamic nuance allied with a meaty/savory character on the nose. Well-integrated.
With air - fresh herbs and other stuff - genie out of the bottle.

Intense red cherry, spices and significant acid-driven structure in the mouth. Linear, as expected, but packed with flavor that is subtle, pure and long. This will be better tomorrow (and the day after).

One of my first "Come to Jesus" wine moments was tasting the 1985 vintage of this wine back in the early 90's.

Day 3 - Pure, cherry jam, charcoal (not from oak) and oak spice. Flavors centered on cherry jam, quite plush for Barolo, with acid-driven tannin impacting only the finish now.

$75