Red/purple.
Vinturi - raspberry sauce, toasted hazelnut , earth, pepper nose. Shows a bit of heat.
Round and mouth-filling, with alcohol and relatively strong acidity giving a dis-jointed impression. Also shows blurry flavors. Much stronger acid/tannin synergy attacks the front teeth. Also needs time, and some lamb cassoulet.
$40. Andre Romero's top of the line bottling
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Mogador 2000 Priorat (Spain)
Purple/red.
Vinturi - creosote, grilled meat/oak char, earth nose with raspberry underneath.
Round, plush and deep. There's an almost subliminal acid edge that keeps this focused. Funny, reminds me of certain Paso wines given its textural characteristics and vague, but pleasing, flavors. Expected more, but even with the Vinturi treatment, this may still need air time.
$50
Vinturi - creosote, grilled meat/oak char, earth nose with raspberry underneath.
Round, plush and deep. There's an almost subliminal acid edge that keeps this focused. Funny, reminds me of certain Paso wines given its textural characteristics and vague, but pleasing, flavors. Expected more, but even with the Vinturi treatment, this may still need air time.
$50
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Ramirez de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja 1998
Red/purple.
Vinturi - FK nose. Savory oak, pepper steak, spice and subtle citrus action on the nose. Extremely refined, integrated and deep. Reminds me of a great Palacios Bierzo, only more subtle and fine.
Round and mouth-filling. Acidity is the dominant structural element. Earth/spice/citrus (grapefruit zest) flavors run through it all. Citrus/mineral chew attacks the front teeth. Many years to go here.. FK.
$50
Vinturi - FK nose. Savory oak, pepper steak, spice and subtle citrus action on the nose. Extremely refined, integrated and deep. Reminds me of a great Palacios Bierzo, only more subtle and fine.
Round and mouth-filling. Acidity is the dominant structural element. Earth/spice/citrus (grapefruit zest) flavors run through it all. Citrus/mineral chew attacks the front teeth. Many years to go here.. FK.
$50
Canon-la-Gaffeliere, St. Emilion Grand Cru 1998
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - suave toasted oak, toast, grilled herbs, black fruit, grilled meat, something saline/something floral. Subtle and PFG. Savory with air time.
Deep and plush, but reined-in by a serious, but fine, vein of acid/tannin structure that runs the distance. But black fruit and spice/toast/herb flavors run with it. This is killer/loaded. Fine mineral/acid/tannic chew coats every tooth in the mouth.
$40
Vinturi - suave toasted oak, toast, grilled herbs, black fruit, grilled meat, something saline/something floral. Subtle and PFG. Savory with air time.
Deep and plush, but reined-in by a serious, but fine, vein of acid/tannin structure that runs the distance. But black fruit and spice/toast/herb flavors run with it. This is killer/loaded. Fine mineral/acid/tannic chew coats every tooth in the mouth.
$40
Clarendon Hills, Hickinbotham Vyd., Cabernet Sauvignon, Clarendon 2001 (Australia)
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - smells deep. Toasted nut/nut liqueur, earth, black raspberry nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a fine acid/tannin edge providing focus. Great mid-palate depth. Not a great deal of flavor complexity (blackcurrant, earth, nut), but deep and long.
$40
Vinturi - smells deep. Toasted nut/nut liqueur, earth, black raspberry nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a fine acid/tannin edge providing focus. Great mid-palate depth. Not a great deal of flavor complexity (blackcurrant, earth, nut), but deep and long.
$40
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Heath Wines "Southern Sisters" Clare Valley, Reserve Riesling 2006
Light yellow.
Petrol, Brazil nut, spicy pineapple and white peach nose.
Deep, ripe, lime, pineapple, mineral flavors. Residual sugar that provides flesh is more than matched by strong mineral/acid chew. Long lime/mineral finish. Another vintage of this wine that is RFG.
$17
Petrol, Brazil nut, spicy pineapple and white peach nose.
Deep, ripe, lime, pineapple, mineral flavors. Residual sugar that provides flesh is more than matched by strong mineral/acid chew. Long lime/mineral finish. Another vintage of this wine that is RFG.
$17
Santa Cruz de Artazu 2003 Navarra (Spain)
Red.
Vinturi - red cherry/red licorice/grapefruit zest/pepper nose. Some suave, toasted oak in the background.
Bright and citrusy in the mouth. With citric chew really clamping down in the mid-palate and finish. Long, you guessed it, citric (lemon and grapefruit zest) finish. Extremely interesting given the vintage.
$40. 100% high-altitude (for Europe) Garnacha
Vinturi - red cherry/red licorice/grapefruit zest/pepper nose. Some suave, toasted oak in the background.
Bright and citrusy in the mouth. With citric chew really clamping down in the mid-palate and finish. Long, you guessed it, citric (lemon and grapefruit zest) finish. Extremely interesting given the vintage.
$40. 100% high-altitude (for Europe) Garnacha
Brusset, "Hauts de Montmirail", Gigondas 2000
Dull, deep red.
Vinturi - smoke, embers/charred meat/grilled herbs, some Brett/earth, toasted nut and a vague cherry jam quality on the nose.
Broad and mouth-filling, with an edge of acidity that keeps it tight. Some herb and iron notes in the mid-palate and finish. Not shaking the fun stuff. Deep, but has no fruit core.
$35 on release
Vinturi - smoke, embers/charred meat/grilled herbs, some Brett/earth, toasted nut and a vague cherry jam quality on the nose.
Broad and mouth-filling, with an edge of acidity that keeps it tight. Some herb and iron notes in the mid-palate and finish. Not shaking the fun stuff. Deep, but has no fruit core.
$35 on release
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Numanthia, Toro (Spain) 2002
Deep red/purple.
Vinturi - grilled meat/toasted oak/toasted nut/baked earth/baked egg confection nose.
Deep and intense, with celery seed character leading. Abrasive, though, with structure shutting down the whole deal. Huge front teeth-coating tannin. I actually enjoyed this a few years ago.
$40
Vinturi - grilled meat/toasted oak/toasted nut/baked earth/baked egg confection nose.
Deep and intense, with celery seed character leading. Abrasive, though, with structure shutting down the whole deal. Huge front teeth-coating tannin. I actually enjoyed this a few years ago.
$40
Bodegas El Nido "Clio" Jumilla 2002
Deep red.
Vinturi - macaroon, savory/raw meat, celery seed, sumptuous earth nose. If this isn't American oak, it doesn't matter. It is a distraction.
Round, but not sweet, with a definite saline impression. Tastes like something from OZ. Dis-jointed tannin/acid feel from the mid-palate on. I think this was Ringland's first swing.
$40. 70% Mourvedre, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon
Vinturi - macaroon, savory/raw meat, celery seed, sumptuous earth nose. If this isn't American oak, it doesn't matter. It is a distraction.
Round, but not sweet, with a definite saline impression. Tastes like something from OZ. Dis-jointed tannin/acid feel from the mid-palate on. I think this was Ringland's first swing.
$40. 70% Mourvedre, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Chateauneuf du Pape 2006
Purple/red.
Vinturi - deep, black fruit, menthol, earth/truffle, licorice nose. Smells loaded and plush.
Round, dense and, yes, plush, with density that reminds me, like the nose, of the Bastide Blanche Bandol. But there's more "give" here, more volume. Fairly serious tannin in the finish, but I can't help thinking that this wine was made differently than the 2000 version (decidedly old-school/rustic). Or was the vineyard work better, or both?
Whatever. PFG.
$50
Vinturi - deep, black fruit, menthol, earth/truffle, licorice nose. Smells loaded and plush.
Round, dense and, yes, plush, with density that reminds me, like the nose, of the Bastide Blanche Bandol. But there's more "give" here, more volume. Fairly serious tannin in the finish, but I can't help thinking that this wine was made differently than the 2000 version (decidedly old-school/rustic). Or was the vineyard work better, or both?
Whatever. PFG.
$50
Villa Creek "Willow Creek" Paso Robles 2006
Red purple.
Vinturi - seamless, suave, oak spice/nut, cherry/raspberry, earth nose.
Wildly round/sweet texture in the mouth, with just a slight spike of VA (?) in the mid-palate. Acid/mineral chew kicks in on the finish but does not kill subtle finishing flavors of earth/spice/raspberry.
$40 60% Grenache, 20% each Syrah and Mourvedre. 15.5% alcohol.
Vinturi - seamless, suave, oak spice/nut, cherry/raspberry, earth nose.
Wildly round/sweet texture in the mouth, with just a slight spike of VA (?) in the mid-palate. Acid/mineral chew kicks in on the finish but does not kill subtle finishing flavors of earth/spice/raspberry.
$40 60% Grenache, 20% each Syrah and Mourvedre. 15.5% alcohol.
Mas de la Deveze, Cotes du Roussillon Villages "66" 2005
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - Deep, saucy nose - savory meat, earth, raspberry coulis, basil, sauteed mushroom and some oak spice.
Very round and plush, with very good flavor depth. Acid/tannin synergy constricts the finish. Needs time. Lacks some lift in the mouth.
$18 This must be based on Grenache.
Vinturi - Deep, saucy nose - savory meat, earth, raspberry coulis, basil, sauteed mushroom and some oak spice.
Very round and plush, with very good flavor depth. Acid/tannin synergy constricts the finish. Needs time. Lacks some lift in the mouth.
$18 This must be based on Grenache.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Hirtzberger, Gruner Veltliner, Honivogl, Smaragd 2003 (Austria)
Yellow.
Smoke, creamed corn, thyme, lemon nose.
Round, deep and rich in the mouth, with a nice lemon lift in the mid-palate. Corpulent, but manages some framing mineral chew in the finish. Very satisfying, but hardly your typical version of this wine.
$40
Smoke, creamed corn, thyme, lemon nose.
Round, deep and rich in the mouth, with a nice lemon lift in the mid-palate. Corpulent, but manages some framing mineral chew in the finish. Very satisfying, but hardly your typical version of this wine.
$40
Drylands, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2008
Platinum/straw.
Pungent kiwi/green herb nose with undertones of grapefruit, pear and guava.
Intense, vibrant/pungent action in the mouth too. Lacks some volume (less RS?), but is pure. Moderate intensity mineral/herb/grapefruit finish. Tanzer's "sneaky length".
$15
Pungent kiwi/green herb nose with undertones of grapefruit, pear and guava.
Intense, vibrant/pungent action in the mouth too. Lacks some volume (less RS?), but is pure. Moderate intensity mineral/herb/grapefruit finish. Tanzer's "sneaky length".
$15
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Bastide Blanche, Bandol 2004
Purple/red.
Vinturi - earth/shoe polish/licorice/truffle/iodine/spice nose. PFG.
Broad and mouth-filling, but not sweet at all. Grainy tannic density - just loaded in the mouth. WTF? For $25 you get this?
Makes many producers look stupid and weak (unfortunately a few of my bottles, too). Long medicinal/licorice/chewy finish.
$25 Repeat after me, "Bronzo is a stud". Mourvedre.
Vinturi - earth/shoe polish/licorice/truffle/iodine/spice nose. PFG.
Broad and mouth-filling, but not sweet at all. Grainy tannic density - just loaded in the mouth. WTF? For $25 you get this?
Makes many producers look stupid and weak (unfortunately a few of my bottles, too). Long medicinal/licorice/chewy finish.
$25 Repeat after me, "Bronzo is a stud". Mourvedre.
Maurel "Les Galets Blonds" Chateauneuf du Pape 1998
Dull red, some brick.
Vinturi - Hazelnut/peanut sauce, truffle, custard, garrigue/wilted herbs, cherry jam, woodsmoke nose . Very easily confused with Amarone. Stunning aromatics, actually, as the wine airs.
Deep, old-school, sans-fruit, palate. Herbs, iron and earth, with a hint of cherry. Nice mid-palate flesh, immediately strangled by relatively rustic acid/tannin synergy. This would be killer with leg of lamb and roasted potatoes.
$30 on release?
Vinturi - Hazelnut/peanut sauce, truffle, custard, garrigue/wilted herbs, cherry jam, woodsmoke nose . Very easily confused with Amarone. Stunning aromatics, actually, as the wine airs.
Deep, old-school, sans-fruit, palate. Herbs, iron and earth, with a hint of cherry. Nice mid-palate flesh, immediately strangled by relatively rustic acid/tannin synergy. This would be killer with leg of lamb and roasted potatoes.
$30 on release?
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2001
Straw/light yellow (strange, but true).
Nose of creme caramel/creme brulee, lemon meringue, caramel candy. Sing along - "I want candy..." (psycho-candy). But this isn't candy. Ridiculous depth.
Massive depth in the mouth as well, with a saline pixel-count that I usually get only from dry-grown, old vine Barossa Shiraz. Loaded - this literally has everything (huge depth of citric fruit, mineral action, caramel oak influence and something else).
The only other wines I can think of to compare this to - FX Kellerberg GV, Z-H Hengst Gewurz (maybe Brand Riesling) - but only in the best vintages.
$80
Nose of creme caramel/creme brulee, lemon meringue, caramel candy. Sing along - "I want candy..." (psycho-candy). But this isn't candy. Ridiculous depth.
Massive depth in the mouth as well, with a saline pixel-count that I usually get only from dry-grown, old vine Barossa Shiraz. Loaded - this literally has everything (huge depth of citric fruit, mineral action, caramel oak influence and something else).
The only other wines I can think of to compare this to - FX Kellerberg GV, Z-H Hengst Gewurz (maybe Brand Riesling) - but only in the best vintages.
$80
Numanthia-Termes, Toro (Spain) 2003
Deep red/purple.
Deep, bass, nose. Aromas of cinnamon, earth, baked black-fruit, custard.
Similarly deep in the mouth. Round, but a bit simple and showing some heat. Low-toned impression, but finishes with relatively aggressive tannin.
Vinturi - Hazelnut on the nose. Similar in the mouth.
$22
Deep, bass, nose. Aromas of cinnamon, earth, baked black-fruit, custard.
Similarly deep in the mouth. Round, but a bit simple and showing some heat. Low-toned impression, but finishes with relatively aggressive tannin.
Vinturi - Hazelnut on the nose. Similar in the mouth.
$22
Friday, April 10, 2009
Clos La Coutale, Cahors 2006
Deep purple.
Licorice, black fruit and herb liqueur. No oak showing.
Intense, linear expression in the mouth, black fruit, licorice and spice. Acid-driven constriction coats the front teeth in mineral chew. No make-up, no BS. Real food wine.
Day 3 - Pure, blatant, black licorice and black fruit nose with clean earth background. Similar to day 1 in the mouth. Naked stuff. This would be great with northern Italian food..
$17. 80% Malbec, 20% Merlot
Licorice, black fruit and herb liqueur. No oak showing.
Intense, linear expression in the mouth, black fruit, licorice and spice. Acid-driven constriction coats the front teeth in mineral chew. No make-up, no BS. Real food wine.
Day 3 - Pure, blatant, black licorice and black fruit nose with clean earth background. Similar to day 1 in the mouth. Naked stuff. This would be great with northern Italian food..
$17. 80% Malbec, 20% Merlot
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Copain, Hacienda Secoya, Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley) 2004
Light red.
Vinturi - savory nose. Red cherry, hazelnut, slow-roasted meat, oak spice.
Round and mouth-filling, with a light touch. Very nice red cherry mid-palate depth. Spice and earth combine with acid/tannin synergy to provide structure. Comes up a bit short on the finish, but quite tasty, enjoyable stuff.
Day 5 - Similar nose. Still lively in the mouth as well, with better integration in the finish. Could use a few years in the bottle.
$40
Vinturi - savory nose. Red cherry, hazelnut, slow-roasted meat, oak spice.
Round and mouth-filling, with a light touch. Very nice red cherry mid-palate depth. Spice and earth combine with acid/tannin synergy to provide structure. Comes up a bit short on the finish, but quite tasty, enjoyable stuff.
Day 5 - Similar nose. Still lively in the mouth as well, with better integration in the finish. Could use a few years in the bottle.
$40
Palliser Estate, Pinot Noir, Martinborough (NZ) 2007
Purple/red.
Vinturi. Wild, deep nose - Syrah-like smoked meat, earth, green herbs, black fruit - that is, nonetheless, well-integrated.
Green character slightly elevated in the mouth, then everything from nose follows. Smoky, meaty finish. Slightly chewy, but again, this is well put together. I'd love to see this thing in 5-7 years. For folks that think Pinot is wimpy.
Day 5 - Similar nose. Greener in the mouth, with acidity and smoky/char character completely out of sync. Hard to enjoy now. Something of a bound-up freak show. Tasting this just after cracking the seal on day 1, w/o the Vinturi, I thought this had never seen a day in wood (maybe staves in a tank..). Back to that theory now.
$25 screwcap
Vinturi. Wild, deep nose - Syrah-like smoked meat, earth, green herbs, black fruit - that is, nonetheless, well-integrated.
Green character slightly elevated in the mouth, then everything from nose follows. Smoky, meaty finish. Slightly chewy, but again, this is well put together. I'd love to see this thing in 5-7 years. For folks that think Pinot is wimpy.
Day 5 - Similar nose. Greener in the mouth, with acidity and smoky/char character completely out of sync. Hard to enjoy now. Something of a bound-up freak show. Tasting this just after cracking the seal on day 1, w/o the Vinturi, I thought this had never seen a day in wood (maybe staves in a tank..). Back to that theory now.
$25 screwcap
Swedish Hill, Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes 2005
Vibrant red.
Vinturi - complex, integrated, refined nose - Bordeaux herbs, red licorice, spice, cran/cherry, earth, tar.
Intense, vibrant, lean entry. Sea salt/brine, herb, cranberry flavors. I see no oak (flavor) influence. Light-weight. This reminds me of Nebbiolo. Definitely acid-driven. Good length. Really good action.
$18
Vinturi - complex, integrated, refined nose - Bordeaux herbs, red licorice, spice, cran/cherry, earth, tar.
Intense, vibrant, lean entry. Sea salt/brine, herb, cranberry flavors. I see no oak (flavor) influence. Light-weight. This reminds me of Nebbiolo. Definitely acid-driven. Good length. Really good action.
$18
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Pax "Obsidian" Syrah, Knights Valley 2004
Saturated purple/red.
Vinturi - killer Pax nose - deep menthol, melted licorice, grilled meat, light heat.
Round, saline and totally mouth-enveloping. Edgy, though, and again showing some back throat burn that probably has more to do with VA than alcohol. Shows the grainy concentration/chew that routinely sets these wines apart. Licorice flavor/chew just keeps going. This is dis-jointed a bit, and may always be so. But this is the kind of wine you go out of your way to accommodate with appropriate food.
$50
Vinturi - killer Pax nose - deep menthol, melted licorice, grilled meat, light heat.
Round, saline and totally mouth-enveloping. Edgy, though, and again showing some back throat burn that probably has more to do with VA than alcohol. Shows the grainy concentration/chew that routinely sets these wines apart. Licorice flavor/chew just keeps going. This is dis-jointed a bit, and may always be so. But this is the kind of wine you go out of your way to accommodate with appropriate food.
$50
Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2003
Deep, slightly dull, red/purple.
(Vinturi) Deep, oozer nose - toasted nut sauce (? - don't go there), earth, brine, reduced black fruit.
Deep, packed, mouth-filling, but not "huge". Acid/tannin/sulfide synergy keeps this taut. No question about the raw material here. Not your typical S. Australian Shiraz - this will evolve for several more years, and drink well for many years thereafter (say 20+ from today).
$50
(Vinturi) Deep, oozer nose - toasted nut sauce (? - don't go there), earth, brine, reduced black fruit.
Deep, packed, mouth-filling, but not "huge". Acid/tannin/sulfide synergy keeps this taut. No question about the raw material here. Not your typical S. Australian Shiraz - this will evolve for several more years, and drink well for many years thereafter (say 20+ from today).
$50
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Allegrini, Amarone 2000
Very deep, dull, red.
Hay, truffle/earth /nut reduction sauce aromas. Cherry jam in the background.
Very deep, packed impression is immediately countered by strong acid/tannin synergy. Mid-palate is lean, finish a bit brutal.
Vinturi = No hay. Truffle/amaretto/cherry jam aromas. Nice entry, and much better follow through, mid-palate to finish. But this doesn't have the concentration of the best vintages.
Day 3 - Deep truffle/earth/charcoal, amaretto, gravy nose. Still not cohesive in the mouth, lacks length/concentration.
$50
Hay, truffle/earth /nut reduction sauce aromas. Cherry jam in the background.
Very deep, packed impression is immediately countered by strong acid/tannin synergy. Mid-palate is lean, finish a bit brutal.
Vinturi = No hay. Truffle/amaretto/cherry jam aromas. Nice entry, and much better follow through, mid-palate to finish. But this doesn't have the concentration of the best vintages.
Day 3 - Deep truffle/earth/charcoal, amaretto, gravy nose. Still not cohesive in the mouth, lacks length/concentration.
$50
Edward Sellers, Paso Robles, Grenache 2005
Deep red.
Deep, rasp/cherry nose, low-key, but loaded. Earth/spice in the background.
Really plush and packed in the mouth, but no easy, superficial, "sweetness". Shows some heat and some back end acidity that throws it off track.
Vinturi = Beef broth/nut liqueur/sauce aromas. Heat and acidity more integrated, but remain.
Day 3 - Similar to day 1, less fruit, more earth. Now texturally sweet in the mouth, but still shows alcohol/acid spike in the finish.
$35 15.9% alcohol
Deep, rasp/cherry nose, low-key, but loaded. Earth/spice in the background.
Really plush and packed in the mouth, but no easy, superficial, "sweetness". Shows some heat and some back end acidity that throws it off track.
Vinturi = Beef broth/nut liqueur/sauce aromas. Heat and acidity more integrated, but remain.
Day 3 - Similar to day 1, less fruit, more earth. Now texturally sweet in the mouth, but still shows alcohol/acid spike in the finish.
$35 15.9% alcohol
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Juan Gil, Monastrell, Jumilla 2006
Purple.
Clay/earth, spicy blackberry nose.
Deep and intense with a saline sweetness that is immediately cut by strong acid/tannin synergy. Linear/lean, with flavors narrowing out in the finish. Needs some time, but this is loaded for a $16 bottle of wine.
Finally got a Vinturi - now shows much more depth on the nose, even some sumptuous umami action. Much rounder in the mouth, with black fruit riding through the mid-palate. Still acid-tight, but definitely displays more flavor action and give.
$16, Monastrell=Mourvedre. The back label says this was whole-cluster fermented and macerated for 25 days.
Clay/earth, spicy blackberry nose.
Deep and intense with a saline sweetness that is immediately cut by strong acid/tannin synergy. Linear/lean, with flavors narrowing out in the finish. Needs some time, but this is loaded for a $16 bottle of wine.
Finally got a Vinturi - now shows much more depth on the nose, even some sumptuous umami action. Much rounder in the mouth, with black fruit riding through the mid-palate. Still acid-tight, but definitely displays more flavor action and give.
$16, Monastrell=Mourvedre. The back label says this was whole-cluster fermented and macerated for 25 days.
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