Deepish, vibrant red.
Vinturi - cran/raspberry, earth/meal, oak spice and a hint of citrus on the nose.
Intense and a bit aggressive in the mouth. Pent up, with alcohol and reasonably high acidity/citric character killing any sense of harmony. My guess is that this needs a day or two to unwind. Usually my favorite Turley bottling.
Day 3 - And here it is. Very deep aromas of earth, raspberry sauce, dried fig and lifted oak(?) spice. Aromatic depth of a great Priorat. Round and seamless, with the citrus character from day 1 making this shockingly vibrant after the nose. Acidity is still strong, but showing far more depth/flesh to buffer it. FK, and nowhere near its peak.
$60 16% alcohol.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Domaine W. Fevre "Cote Bouguerots" Bougros, Chablis 2002
Bright, light yellow.
Perfectly ripe pineapple, lime, smoke, mineral/earth and a hint of caramel on the nose. Discreet, very fine.
Caramel, lime flesh, mineral flavors are intense, reasonably fleshy and delineated. Also mouth-watering and FK. Mineral/lime flesh/caramel interaction keeps driving through the long, totally delicious, finish. Reminds me of great (dry) Riesling.
$50
Perfectly ripe pineapple, lime, smoke, mineral/earth and a hint of caramel on the nose. Discreet, very fine.
Caramel, lime flesh, mineral flavors are intense, reasonably fleshy and delineated. Also mouth-watering and FK. Mineral/lime flesh/caramel interaction keeps driving through the long, totally delicious, finish. Reminds me of great (dry) Riesling.
$50
Friday, September 25, 2009
P. Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - aromas of earth/truffle, roasted herbs, fig paste, prune and lifted spices.
Massive, building, palate impression. Round and packed. Huge mid-palate flesh ultimately whittled down to size by significant, side teeth-coating, acid/tannin synergy. Absolutely no primary fruit here, thus useless pool-side. But if you've got a cup of hot fat in front of you, or a lamb shank, you're in luck.
$75
Vinturi - aromas of earth/truffle, roasted herbs, fig paste, prune and lifted spices.
Massive, building, palate impression. Round and packed. Huge mid-palate flesh ultimately whittled down to size by significant, side teeth-coating, acid/tannin synergy. Absolutely no primary fruit here, thus useless pool-side. But if you've got a cup of hot fat in front of you, or a lamb shank, you're in luck.
$75
Gourt de Mautens, Rasteau 2001
Deep red, some rim evolution.
Vinturi - earth, toast, fragrant spices, raspberry/hazelnut sauce on the nose. This doesn't remind me of the southern Rhone. On the other hand, neither do the wines from Soumade.
Much less extracted than earlier vintages, also (seemingly) less ripe, with strong acidity. Pretty bound up at present. Shows some sulfide chew that adds to the impression of austerity. Eventually cranberry and hints of citrus emerge. No idea where this is going.
$45
Vinturi - earth, toast, fragrant spices, raspberry/hazelnut sauce on the nose. This doesn't remind me of the southern Rhone. On the other hand, neither do the wines from Soumade.
Much less extracted than earlier vintages, also (seemingly) less ripe, with strong acidity. Pretty bound up at present. Shows some sulfide chew that adds to the impression of austerity. Eventually cranberry and hints of citrus emerge. No idea where this is going.
$45
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 1998 Bandol
Deep red.
Vinturi - similar to the Longue Garde, only better integrated - salami, wilted herb, earth, spicy fig.
Round, mouth-filling, middle-weight. Nice flesh through the mid-palate and finish, where slight acid/tannin synergy pops up. This also reminds me of "traditional" (no new oak) Cote Rotie. "Tradition" always a question of how far back you wish to go... Wandering off-subject. These wines really need food - and real food needs them. Co-dependent?
$35
Vinturi - similar to the Longue Garde, only better integrated - salami, wilted herb, earth, spicy fig.
Round, mouth-filling, middle-weight. Nice flesh through the mid-palate and finish, where slight acid/tannin synergy pops up. This also reminds me of "traditional" (no new oak) Cote Rotie. "Tradition" always a question of how far back you wish to go... Wandering off-subject. These wines really need food - and real food needs them. Co-dependent?
$35
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Bastide Blanche "Longue Garde" 1998 Bandol
Opaque red.
Vinturi - ah, a wild one - salami, earth, fig, all sorts of spices and even some cocoa. Despite the obvious brett influence, this is deep, well-integrated (now) and extremely interesting. Still can't figure out exactly what's going on.
Round, edge-less. Deeply flavored, but treads lightly. Smoky bacon and wilted herb action in the mouth reminds me of the Roasted Slope. This goes start to finish. A bit of light chew in the finish. Distinctive and FK.
$30 Based on Mourvedre
Vinturi - ah, a wild one - salami, earth, fig, all sorts of spices and even some cocoa. Despite the obvious brett influence, this is deep, well-integrated (now) and extremely interesting. Still can't figure out exactly what's going on.
Round, edge-less. Deeply flavored, but treads lightly. Smoky bacon and wilted herb action in the mouth reminds me of the Roasted Slope. This goes start to finish. A bit of light chew in the finish. Distinctive and FK.
$30 Based on Mourvedre
Monday, September 21, 2009
Dona Paula "Seleccion de Bodega" Malbec, Mendoza 2005
Purple/red.
Vinturi - earth, oak spice/toast, meat drippings on the nose. Black fruit underneath. Well-integrated.
Round and a bit sweet in the mouth - reminds me of Shiraz - as does the deep black raspberry fruit character. Acidity provides most of the structural support, which dominates the mid-palate and finish. Tightly wound and not particularly enjoyable at the moment.. Needs several years. Or some lamb and roasted potatoes.
$45
Vinturi - earth, oak spice/toast, meat drippings on the nose. Black fruit underneath. Well-integrated.
Round and a bit sweet in the mouth - reminds me of Shiraz - as does the deep black raspberry fruit character. Acidity provides most of the structural support, which dominates the mid-palate and finish. Tightly wound and not particularly enjoyable at the moment.. Needs several years. Or some lamb and roasted potatoes.
$45
Lone Madrone, Tannat, Paso Robles 2005
Opaque purple.
Vinturi - very deep, saucy, black fruit, earth/meat/spice nose. PFG.
Round, plush entry, then some heat in the mid-palate. Very deep, concentrated. Gets a bit chewy on the finish, with slightly aggressive tannin hitting the upper teeth/gums. But nothing crazy. Interestingly, this reminds me more of Paso Robles than anything else.
Tannat is an esoteric red variety from the Madiran region of France. Lone Madrone is owned by Neal Collins, winemaker at Tablas Creek.
$45? Gift. Opened yesterday
Vinturi - very deep, saucy, black fruit, earth/meat/spice nose. PFG.
Round, plush entry, then some heat in the mid-palate. Very deep, concentrated. Gets a bit chewy on the finish, with slightly aggressive tannin hitting the upper teeth/gums. But nothing crazy. Interestingly, this reminds me more of Paso Robles than anything else.
Tannat is an esoteric red variety from the Madiran region of France. Lone Madrone is owned by Neal Collins, winemaker at Tablas Creek.
$45? Gift. Opened yesterday
Friday, September 18, 2009
Dos Victorias "Gran Elias Mora" Toro 2001
Saturated red/purple.
Vinturi - earth/hazelnut/black fruit custard/oak spice nose.
Intense and linear in the mouth. Spicy black fruit echoes. Major acid/tannin synergy, but nothing like 4-5 years ago. Now showing some subtle flavor complexity in the finish. No way this acid is "natural", and I still wonder if this will ever sing. Age-ability - what price do you pay for it (producer and consumer). Is it worth it?
$50 Opened yesterday.
Vinturi - earth/hazelnut/black fruit custard/oak spice nose.
Intense and linear in the mouth. Spicy black fruit echoes. Major acid/tannin synergy, but nothing like 4-5 years ago. Now showing some subtle flavor complexity in the finish. No way this acid is "natural", and I still wonder if this will ever sing. Age-ability - what price do you pay for it (producer and consumer). Is it worth it?
$50 Opened yesterday.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Domaine de la Mordoree "La Reine des Bois" Lirac 2005
Opaque purple.
Vinturi - extremely deep, loaded nose - shoe polish, fig/date paste, spice. Has lift, too.
Deep, extremely concentrated and plush. Blackberry and black raspberry coulis, clay/earth and spice. Deep, remarkably so, and chewy on the finish. A hugely deep, reasonably fresh wine that only lacks precision and complexity. For the money, it is a stupid value. This will probably gain some ground with cellar time.
$20?
Vinturi - extremely deep, loaded nose - shoe polish, fig/date paste, spice. Has lift, too.
Deep, extremely concentrated and plush. Blackberry and black raspberry coulis, clay/earth and spice. Deep, remarkably so, and chewy on the finish. A hugely deep, reasonably fresh wine that only lacks precision and complexity. For the money, it is a stupid value. This will probably gain some ground with cellar time.
$20?
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2006 Bandol
Purple.
Vinturi - deep, spicy black and blue fruit, cinnamon, earth nose. Extremely attractive action.
Deep, but less dense and more fine than the '05 Fontanieu in the mouth. Really driven by its acidity, which bolsters the tannic clout. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume", with fairly serious acid/tannin constriction in the finish. An excellent bottle as well, but quite different in style (is it the vintage or the vineyard? or both?). Both are definitely worth buying and cellaring for 6-10 years.
$28
Vinturi - deep, spicy black and blue fruit, cinnamon, earth nose. Extremely attractive action.
Deep, but less dense and more fine than the '05 Fontanieu in the mouth. Really driven by its acidity, which bolsters the tannic clout. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume", with fairly serious acid/tannin constriction in the finish. An excellent bottle as well, but quite different in style (is it the vintage or the vineyard? or both?). Both are definitely worth buying and cellaring for 6-10 years.
$28
Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 2005 Bandol
Purple.
Vinturi - iodine/menthol, clay/earth, spicy fig, blackberry, pepper nose. Deep, nuanced.
Round and densely packed in the mouth, with typical grainy, tannic constriction. Really nice mid-palate "stuffing" keeps this chugging along, start to finish. Needs more bottle time to show flavor complexity. No hard edges, no heat. Long, moderately tannic finish.
$28. Major deal. 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Vinturi - iodine/menthol, clay/earth, spicy fig, blackberry, pepper nose. Deep, nuanced.
Round and densely packed in the mouth, with typical grainy, tannic constriction. Really nice mid-palate "stuffing" keeps this chugging along, start to finish. Needs more bottle time to show flavor complexity. No hard edges, no heat. Long, moderately tannic finish.
$28. Major deal. 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Chante Cigale "Vieilles Vignes" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Deep red.
Vinturi - vibrant, lifted, intense nose - resinous herbs, earth/nut, raspberry, cherry liqueur.
Intense garrigue flavor, and grip, immediately. No question this includes some serious stem action. The nose suggested no fat, confirmed in the mouth. Lean, chewy, intense and aggressive. But not brutal. Old school. Thank God some people still do this. More open and interesting with several more years in the bottle. I'd guess this will drink well through 2020, at least.
$45
Vinturi - vibrant, lifted, intense nose - resinous herbs, earth/nut, raspberry, cherry liqueur.
Intense garrigue flavor, and grip, immediately. No question this includes some serious stem action. The nose suggested no fat, confirmed in the mouth. Lean, chewy, intense and aggressive. But not brutal. Old school. Thank God some people still do this. More open and interesting with several more years in the bottle. I'd guess this will drink well through 2020, at least.
$45
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Greenock Creek "Cornerstone" Grenache, Barossa Valley 2002
Red.
Earth/nut and raspberry jam on the deep nose. Some (oak?) spice and hazelnut action too.
Hugely sweet in the mouth, and a bit high-toned with alcohol. But this resolves itself pretty well. Raspberry liqueur/sauce. No complexity to speak of. Acid dominant structure is relatively mild, but really doesn't "fit". This is a pretty good example of what folks in the Rhone need not fear. I wonder why no great Chateauneuf producer has followed Chapoutier to the land of Oz? Chapoutier said at an HdR seminar years ago that he was importing (very old) Aussie Grenache budwood, as it was pre-phylloxera. What could the Ferauds or Avrils do with a 80-100 year old Grenache in Australia? Maybe Chester Osborn is already working with one of them.
Day 2 - Well, after all my BS, this is tasting far better today. Much deeper, more plush in the mouth with acidity less abrasive. Clearly, the raw materials were stellar. But I would still love to see a wine made by an Avril from the same fruit.
$55
Earth/nut and raspberry jam on the deep nose. Some (oak?) spice and hazelnut action too.
Hugely sweet in the mouth, and a bit high-toned with alcohol. But this resolves itself pretty well. Raspberry liqueur/sauce. No complexity to speak of. Acid dominant structure is relatively mild, but really doesn't "fit". This is a pretty good example of what folks in the Rhone need not fear. I wonder why no great Chateauneuf producer has followed Chapoutier to the land of Oz? Chapoutier said at an HdR seminar years ago that he was importing (very old) Aussie Grenache budwood, as it was pre-phylloxera. What could the Ferauds or Avrils do with a 80-100 year old Grenache in Australia? Maybe Chester Osborn is already working with one of them.
Day 2 - Well, after all my BS, this is tasting far better today. Much deeper, more plush in the mouth with acidity less abrasive. Clearly, the raw materials were stellar. But I would still love to see a wine made by an Avril from the same fruit.
$55
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Two Hands "Bella's Garden" Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2003
Opaque red/purple.
Vinturi - deep nose - dried fig, oak spice/savory meat/reduction sauce, black raspberry, graham cracker.
Round, sweet and plush in the mouth. Shows a saline character also. Easy to enjoy, from any perspective, as this has the deep, plush fruit that New World winos love. But this also has nice acid/tannin synergy that keeps "one foot on the floor". Sure to satisfy any conservative wine aficionado. PFG and should drink well for years.
$50
Vinturi - deep nose - dried fig, oak spice/savory meat/reduction sauce, black raspberry, graham cracker.
Round, sweet and plush in the mouth. Shows a saline character also. Easy to enjoy, from any perspective, as this has the deep, plush fruit that New World winos love. But this also has nice acid/tannin synergy that keeps "one foot on the floor". Sure to satisfy any conservative wine aficionado. PFG and should drink well for years.
$50
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Ciacci Piccolomini "Fabius" (Syrah) Sant'Antimo 2001
Deep red/purple.
Vinturi - nose of toasty oak, char/oak spice/grilled meat, with a pool of blackberry coulis and hazelnut underneath. More subtle than it sounds, getting better with air time.
Subdued in the mouth, probably due to oak load. Deep and mildly chewy, but has no lift. Better with meat, but this could use a shot of Viognier (or Malvasia). Or a hell of a lot less toasty oak.
$50
Vinturi - nose of toasty oak, char/oak spice/grilled meat, with a pool of blackberry coulis and hazelnut underneath. More subtle than it sounds, getting better with air time.
Subdued in the mouth, probably due to oak load. Deep and mildly chewy, but has no lift. Better with meat, but this could use a shot of Viognier (or Malvasia). Or a hell of a lot less toasty oak.
$50
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Hirtzberger, Gruner Veltliner, Honivogl, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)
Bright yellow.
Spicy, slightly pungent nose of lentil, pepper, jellied white fruit, grapefruit flesh.
Deep, with significant sweetness in the mouth. Pungent pepper/lentil flavors. Quite concentrated/dense but pungent, chewy character adds real cut to balance the sweet/fat richness. I think there's residual CO2 also. Long. There really isn't anything else like this.
$40
Spicy, slightly pungent nose of lentil, pepper, jellied white fruit, grapefruit flesh.
Deep, with significant sweetness in the mouth. Pungent pepper/lentil flavors. Quite concentrated/dense but pungent, chewy character adds real cut to balance the sweet/fat richness. I think there's residual CO2 also. Long. There really isn't anything else like this.
$40
Friday, September 4, 2009
Clarendon Hills, Roma's, Grenache 2002
Purple/red.
Nose of Chambord, salt water taffy, juniper, dried fig, toasted nut. Deep, confectionary (in a positive sense).
Round and sweet, texturally speaking. Not wildly complex - but gets extra credit for purity, seamlessness and flat out intensity. Not as flamboyant as it was a couple of years ago. But the saline action makes me wonder if this doesn't have something up its sleeve.
$70
Nose of Chambord, salt water taffy, juniper, dried fig, toasted nut. Deep, confectionary (in a positive sense).
Round and sweet, texturally speaking. Not wildly complex - but gets extra credit for purity, seamlessness and flat out intensity. Not as flamboyant as it was a couple of years ago. But the saline action makes me wonder if this doesn't have something up its sleeve.
$70
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2002
Red, some evolution.
Killer, deep, sumptuous nose - cherry sauce, hazelnut, herbs/underbrush. Shows some VA lift/spice.
Round and sensual, with nose repeated in flavor. It's interesting that a woman made this. And that Burgundy bottles are shaped as they are. Absolutely delicious - something you want to "eat". Not complex in the usual sense of the word, but the textural/flavor synergy here is mind-boggling.
$75
Killer, deep, sumptuous nose - cherry sauce, hazelnut, herbs/underbrush. Shows some VA lift/spice.
Round and sensual, with nose repeated in flavor. It's interesting that a woman made this. And that Burgundy bottles are shaped as they are. Absolutely delicious - something you want to "eat". Not complex in the usual sense of the word, but the textural/flavor synergy here is mind-boggling.
$75
Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2002
Light yellow.
Moderate intensity nose of buttered popcorn, truffle, pear, lemon, sulfide, petrol, caramel.
Extremely refined for the richness here. Understated, but with the usual uber-fat/concentration. Not sure how to describe
this, but the whole mouth is coated in caramelized pear, lemon, mineral and sulfide flavor/chew which is not aggressive.
$120. 14.3% alcohol.
Moderate intensity nose of buttered popcorn, truffle, pear, lemon, sulfide, petrol, caramel.
Extremely refined for the richness here. Understated, but with the usual uber-fat/concentration. Not sure how to describe
this, but the whole mouth is coated in caramelized pear, lemon, mineral and sulfide flavor/chew which is not aggressive.
$120. 14.3% alcohol.
Maurodos "San Roman" Toro 2000
Red/purple.
Vinturi - grilled meat, coconut, black fruit custard/pastry, oak spice nose.
Round initial impression, increasingly constricted by acid/tannin synergy, like a thumbscrew, as we move through the wine. Nice red and black fruit action until the mouth shuts down in the finish. Needs food, animal protein and fat, in the worst way.
$35
Vinturi - grilled meat, coconut, black fruit custard/pastry, oak spice nose.
Round initial impression, increasingly constricted by acid/tannin synergy, like a thumbscrew, as we move through the wine. Nice red and black fruit action until the mouth shuts down in the finish. Needs food, animal protein and fat, in the worst way.
$35
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Allegrini, Amarone, 1998
Deep red, slight evolution.
Vinturi - truffle/earth/smoke/cherry jam/dried fig/spice aromas. Understated, self-contained.
Huge initial volume in the mouth, creamy, suave. Light acid/tannin synergy. No heat. All aromatic action repeated in flavor. This is FK, but not because of its size. Seamless, integrated, subtle. Long.
Day 4 - Chocolate-covered cherry (vivid)/truffle/earth/smoke nose. Huge mouth presence, great density and relative refinement. This rocks and shows no sign that it is at its peak. This really is FK.
$50
Vinturi - truffle/earth/smoke/cherry jam/dried fig/spice aromas. Understated, self-contained.
Huge initial volume in the mouth, creamy, suave. Light acid/tannin synergy. No heat. All aromatic action repeated in flavor. This is FK, but not because of its size. Seamless, integrated, subtle. Long.
Day 4 - Chocolate-covered cherry (vivid)/truffle/earth/smoke nose. Huge mouth presence, great density and relative refinement. This rocks and shows no sign that it is at its peak. This really is FK.
$50
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Cordier "Terroirs Rares" Pouilly-Fuisse' 2004
Yellow.
Nut/earth/light buttered popcorn/poached pear nose.
Deep, nicely layered wine. Mineral/caramel/lemon flavors brought to life by an acid edge that slowly reveals itself. Ultimately vibrant and relatively rich, with lime/caramel finishing flavors. Grows on you. RGS.
$26 Deal?
Nut/earth/light buttered popcorn/poached pear nose.
Deep, nicely layered wine. Mineral/caramel/lemon flavors brought to life by an acid edge that slowly reveals itself. Ultimately vibrant and relatively rich, with lime/caramel finishing flavors. Grows on you. RGS.
$26 Deal?
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