Saturday, January 30, 2010

Tablas Creek,Tannat, Paso Robles 2007

Purple.

Vinturi - very attractive nose of lightly baked blueberry/blackberry, cinnamon pie crust, earth.

Round and plush, with a light edge of astringent tannin that increasingly asserts itself. And keeps asserting itself. Deep black fruit and spice flavors keep kicking, though. This is RFG, and I'd love to see it again in 5-7 years.


$30. 15% alcohol listed. Tannat is from SW France. Micro-oxygenation was originally developed to help tame its tannic ferocity.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Chateau Brown, Pessac-Leognan (Bordeaux) 2000

Deep red.

Vinturi - interesting - red pepper coulis, greens, hazelnut/earth, red cherry, charcoal nose with a saline/tidal nuance. FK. Continues to evolve in the glass.

Round, plush, light to middle-weight. Delivers the goods with no overt sense of weight. A beautiful thing. Not "great", but few (real) winos would quibble, especially at this price. Still has a few years of evolution to go, but much fun right now. RFG.


$25

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

La Fleur de Jaugue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2006

Red/purple.

Vinturi - very sexy nose - red and black cherry, black raspberry, earth, oak nuts, herbs with a perfumed quality.

Round, with very nice density and lift. Significant acid/tannin synergy cuts into the finish a bit, but this could easily be enjoyed now with real food. Better, though, with 3-4 more years in the bottle. The oak influence is barely noticeable. Pretty, pure.


$30(?) Can't remember

Monday, January 25, 2010

Uvaguilera "Palomero" Ribera del Duero 2001

Red/purple.

Vinturi - killer nose - smoke, savory meat/nut, coconut/black fruit custard with a bit of Brett game and a medicinal nuance. Something saline, too. Reminiscent of a Massena bottling from Oz. Only more pure.

Deep middle-weight, with full bass and treble notes. Nothing heavy here, and the tannin is remarkably refined and the fairly high acidity well-integrated. Flavors follow from nose, with subtle, great, length. This was absolutely brutal on release (2004?). FK now and will continue to improve for several more years, I'd guess.

Day 3 - nose is even more killer, integrated. More bass in the mouth. Worth every penny.

$95. Another RdD from Burgos. 18 months in new French and American barrels.

Chateau d'Aiguilhe, Cotes de Castillon (Bordeaux) 2000

Saturated red/purple.

Vinturi - charcoal/oak toast/toasted nut/grilled herbs/smoked salmon (indeed)/black raspberry nose.

Immediate, intense, black fruit, herb and toast flavors and acid/tannin synergy. Smacks you right in the mouth and doesn't let up. Some welcome mid-palate flesh eases the impression a bit, but this thing isn't remotely close to its peak. Loaded.



$25. Made by Derenoncourt.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Flechas de los Andes "Gran" Malbec, Mendoza 2007

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - deep, slightly baked, black fruit, coconut, earth/nut nose.

Round, concentrated, with some textural sweetness. Black fruit and coconut in the mouth, with significant acid/tannin synergy clenching the front teeth. Nice follow through in the finish. Very young and likely to develop well in the bottle.


$17. Cheap. Collaboration between Rothschild and Dassault.

Chateau Raspail, Gigondas 2007

Deep red.

Vinturi - spicy cherry, earth nose isn't giving it up easily.

Round and fairly dense, with spicy stem tannin hitting in the mid-palate and strengthening on the finish. Significant front of the mouth lockdown. Seems to lack some depth of flavor to counter its structural load. Very good, though.

Day 5 - No lack of depth now. Even shows an exotic mango character. Stem lift/chew keeps it fresh. Loads of mid-palate flesh. Absolutely stupid deal.

$20

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Langwerth von Simmern, Riesling, Kabinett, Erbacher Marcobrunn 2008

Straw.

CO2 enhanced nose of lemon, nectarine and hints of petrol and white pepper.

Shows a light saline character in the mouth. RS cut nicely by strong mineral/acid spine - mouthwatering nectarine action. Has excellent concentration. This is RFG. Driving mineral/nectarine finishing chew.


$25. From Frank's shop in Tucson. 9.5% alcohol.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Alonso del Yerro "Maria" Ribera del Duero 2005

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - smoke/oak char, black raspberry, earth/nut nose.

Round, deep and plush, with a fairly stiff acid spine slowly revealing itself. Nothing easy about this, and built for the long haul. Stephane Derenoncourt consults here, and there is, in fact, a strong resemblance to the wines he makes in Bordeaux. Not even close to shaking the fun stuff.


$65. 14.7% alcohol listed. 100% Tempranillo, I believe. From Burgos (as are the difficult wines of Dominio de Atauta), one of the coolest regions in RdD.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Clos Marie "Simon" Pic Saint Loup 2004

Dull red/purple.

Vinturi - spicy ketchup, iron, grilled/wilted herbs, grilled meat nose.

Round and loaded, seamless. Everything from the nose echoed in the mouth. No heat, huge mid-palate material. Acid (decent VA?) constriction in the finish. Cote Rotie on steroids, with little loss of clarity/fineness.


$40. 50% Syrah, 50% Grenache.

Cave de Saumur "Les Vignoles" Saumur Champigny 2005

Deep purple.

Vinturi - earth, black fruit, savory nut nose has nice lift.

Intensely flavored middle-weight exhibits no obvious oak influence. Shows a crushed blackberry/orange/mineral character throughout. This rocks. Mineral chew coats the front teeth. Subtle, perfumed, finish shows an iron note late.

Day 3 - Now showing a red pepper coulis aspect as well. Deeper too. This is FK and built to age (and improve) for years.
Joke $$.

$23. 100% Cabernet Franc. From Frank Lietzau importer and retailer in Tucson.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Saxum, James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2007

Purple/red.

Vinturi - deep nose also shows nice lift - black fruit and strawberry, savory meat/earth/nut, shoe polish, steak sauce. Very attractive, sumptuous.

Round, sweet and completely mouth-filling, with a hit of alcohol throwing things off-track a bit in the mid-palate. Alcohol/acid/tannin synergy constrict the finish, but still has nice follow through. I'd drain this over the next 2-3 years.


$80. 15.8% alcohol. 41% Grenache, 31% Mourvedre, 28% Syrah.

Wind Gap, Grenache/Mourvedre/Syrah, James Berry Vyd., Paso Robles 2007

Red.

Vinturi - orange/grapefruit zest, earth/savory nut, licorice (both colors), cranberry - just keeps giving stuff up on the nose.

Round, mouth-filling but has a simultaneous, nearly pungent, grapefruit zest edge that cuts through any easiness here. No way I'd guess this was from CA. I'd guess Spain. Tanzer's "painful" intensity in spades. Completely kills the idea (along with all the Tablas Creek wines) that Paso fruit needs crazy ripeness to get "palatable" acidity. Depends on the palate.

Day 3 - Deeper, saucy now. Still has great citrus zest lift in the mouth. This will be very interesting to follow over 6-10 years.

$70? 14.9% alcohol.

Chateau Paradis "Terre des Anges" Coteaux d'Aix en Provence 2007

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, packed, "plush" nose shows very well-integrated oak influence - black raspberry reduction, hazelnut sauce, A-1, earth. Extremely attractive.

Round, with acidity immediately curtailing breadth and really making itself known in the finish. Nothing hard about this, however.
Plenty of mid-palate flesh, but a bit bound up at the moment. A day or two of air should take care of that.


$25. 55% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Michel Tardieu has a hand in this.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

La Confession, St. Emilion 2005

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - considerable oak influence is nevertheless very sexy - smoke, grilled meat, grilled herbs, cinnamon, hazelnut, black cherry nose.

Round, plush middle-weight, with acid/tannin working in slowly from the sides of the mouth. This is PFG already. Very easily enjoyed right now with dead animal/rich sauce stuff. Nice, perfumed, finishing flavors. This should really rock in another 3-5 years.


$40? Can't remember.

Mogador "Nelin" White Priorat 2007

Straw, light yellow. Slight copper tinge.

Quince, nutmeg, lemon and a toasty/leesy note on the nose.

Intensely flavored, lean, with strong acidity and a lemon/mineral/leesy character that (again) reminds me of really good Champagne. I expected this to be broad and mouth-filling given that it is apparently based on Marsanne. There is a bit of initial almond richness, but that recedes in the mid-palate, only to flare up again in the very long finish (almond/mineral). Unusual, interesting.


$45. Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Macabeo and Pinot Noir

Monday, January 11, 2010

Taltarni, Shiraz, Pyrenees Victoria 2004

Saturated purple.

Opened six hours ago - much lower-toned now, though it still shows a lifted juniper/eucalyptus note on the nose. Savory earth and saucy black fruit rule, with a tidal aspect, too. Deep.

Round and saline initially, with outstanding density/concentration. Manages the same lifted notes in the mouth as well that keep this from being heavy. Acidity is unobtrusive, but definitely adds to the leavening effect. RGS - very tasty and interesting.

Day 2 - Andes mint nose now. Round, with very good density in the mouth. Mint repeating. RGS, especially for the price.


$18

Perrin, Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007

Purple.

Opened 6 hours ago - vibrant cracked pepper, crushed blackberry and earth/hazelnut nose (now).

Very perfumed in the mouth - citrus blossom/orange zest/pepper flavors that just keep going and going. Hints of iron and herbs too. Fairly high acidity and moderate tannin clench a bit in the finish, but flavors ride on. No fat whatsoever, but full of life and intensely flavored. This is killer. And the price is hilarious. This should get better with another year in the bottle and drink well for 4-5 more at least.

$12. 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah.

Friday, January 8, 2010

Pax "Obsidian" Syrah, Knight's Valley 2004

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - more open than the 2003 - killer aromas of black raspberry coulis, menthol/licorice, pepper, savory meat/nut sauce. Serious, deep, nose candy.

Round and loaded in the mouth, too. Deeper than the 2003 and more expressive with less of a structural load. Still chews on the front teeth, just more gently. Deep, full flavors of menthol/licorice, spicy fig show some heat. Still, this is FK.

Day 5 - Now more restrained than the 2003 on the nose. But very much in line with the above notes. Integrated and ultimately more complex than the '03. God this is good. Not as flamboyant in the mouth as the '03, but more complete/refined.

$75

Pax "Obsidian" Syrah, Knight's Valley 2003

Deep red/purple.

Vinturi - reticent nose is nevertheless loaded - licorice, spicy fig, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs, vanilla. Saucy.

Round, mouthcoating and dense. Grainy tannic "chew" also supported by impression of acidity that may be stem related. Totally different feel than the Favia. Menthol, celery/herb and licorice flavors. A bit spiky, but nothing crazy. Great length and finishing chew - difficult to distinguish structure from flavor. Meshed.

Day 5 - Nothing reticent about the nose now - menthol, melted licorice, huge fig action. FK. Round, mouth-filling with a completely loaded mid-palate that just rides into the finish. Yada. Alcohol a non-issue.


$75

Favia "Sal y Miel" Bennett Valley Syrah 2004

Red/purple.

Vinturi - integrated nose shows menthol, pepper, fig, toasted nut, raspberry/strawberry. Discreet.

Round and mouth-filling, but treads lightly, with nice acidity. Very nicely put together, with good length. Lacks a bit of depth.


Day 5 - Way deep now, with great aromatic and flavor delineation. Not as powerful as Pax, but far better, definitely more complex and deep, than I originally thought. Beautiful.

From a (now) famous young couple - Annie Favia and Andy Erickson.

$45? Can't remember

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" Bandol 2006

Purple/red.

Vinturi - earth/hazelnut, spicy black fruit, beet and hints of sausage/game on the nose.

Deep, packed, no fat - immediate, typical, grainy tannin is a bit harsh at this point. Major finishing constriction, but flavors wriggle through. Just needs some time, say 4-6+ years. Or the proverbial "hot cup of fat.


$28. Mourvedre.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Deep red.

Vinturi - cherry/red raspberry jelly, hazelnut/earth nose. Pristine, pure.

Round, plush and mouth-filling. Nice acid edge moving in slowly from the periphery of the mouth. Ultimately coating the front teeth in light "chew". Earth, spice and cherry jam flavors show Tanzer's "sneaky" length. Still, this needs 4-5 more years to start shaking the fun stuff. For drinking tonight, the Hecht & Bannier wins the cage match.


$65 (before the Wine Spectator shot a biscuit over the stuff)

Hecht & Bannier, Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2003

Deep red.

Vinturi - Spicy herbs, iron, cherry liqueur and toasted nut nose. Very interesting/integrated/attractive.

Round with a slight textural sweetness matched immediately by grainy density/concentration and moderate acid/tannin chew. Shows herbs, iron and cherry liqueur in the mouth, too. RFG and just stupid $$. I'd drink this over the next three years.


$20. Mostly Grenache, with Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah.

Friday, January 1, 2010

Feudi di San Gregorio "Piano di Montevergine" Taurasi 1999

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - smoke/ash, blackest of black fruit, play-doh, suave oak spice, Sambuca nose.

Very intense, bracing entry - black fruit, licorice, celery, sawn redwood - on a wave of huge acid/tannin synergy. Somehow flavors continue to flow, despite an almost complete mouth shutdown. Really interesting action and nowhere near maturity. Redwood character has serious hang-time. Another wine that needs a cup of hot lamb fat.


$65. 100% Aglianico.

Zind Humbrecht "Hengst" Gewurztraminer 2003

Yellow/light gold.

Deep, "thick" aromas of orange/grapefruit marmalade, lychee candy and a floral nuance. Killer.

Deep, quite sweet, and yet is not heavy at all. Picks up a bright orange zest character in the mid-palate which keeps kicking through the extremely long finish. Even a light iodine note very late. This rocks and is way too easy to drink.


$70. 14.5% alcohol, indice 4 (just shy of dessert wine).