Sunday, February 28, 2010

Pax "Cuvee Keltie" Syrah, North Coast 2003

Slightly dull, saturated, purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, saucy nose - black and green olive/fig/pepper/licorice/5 spice powder/grilled meat/shoe polish/grilled herbs/pepper steak (slightly redundant) ... This is absolutely FK.

Low-toned, packed and grainy in the mouth, without the complexity shown on the nose. Still there's plenty to like here, with a fragrant sawn wood note that is not from oak, licorice and grilled herb flavors too. Stem inclusion very much in evidence, as the stiff, chewy, tannin takes over the mouth from the mid-palate on. Nowhere near maturity. I gave a bottle of this as a gift to somebody. Want it back, whoever you are. Mind-blowing, individual, Syrah from CA.


$70. 14.8% listed alcohol. 100% whole cluster fermented Syrah from several vineyards. Aged in essentially neutral 500 liter barrels (I think all of this is correct...)

Three Rivers, Syrah, Boushey Vyds, Yakima Valley 2004

Purple/red.

Vinturi - vibrant nose shows nice purity - blackberry liqueur, fig, earth/oak spice. Reminds me of (really good) Australian Shiraz. Late note of cigar ash.

Mouth-filling, but not heavy. Middle-weight, with nice concentration/depth. Fairly strong acidity keeps this bright and linear through the finish. Nice stuff.


$? Gift. Probably $30-35

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Domaine du Mas Blanc "Clos du Moulin" Collioure 2007

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - total freak show of a nose - salt water taffy, blackberry, fig, wood spices, earth, meat reduction ....

Round, deep and low-toned with a distinct, powerful flavor of cinnamon stick that reminds me immediately of the central element in recently tasted bottles of Marcassin Pinot. Disulfide action - but that's geek stuff. Interesting, though, as it is reductive winemaking and/or reductive varieties that I've seen this in - Riesling, Pinot and now Mourvedre. Also, interestingly, this feature tends to obliterate other, more subtle, flavors. But this still ends up showing additional flavors of blackberry, brine and earth.
Singular wine that will make many folks shoot a nasty biscuit. Definitely worth buying and cellaring for 8-10 years (at least).


$25. Mostly Mourvedre from an area just north of the Spanish border, on the Mediterranean.

Tablas Creek, Mourvedre, Paso Robles 2007

Purple/red.

Vinturi - nose of blackberry coulis, seared meat, pepper and a deep, very attractive, earth note. Smells plush.

Round and plush - even manages an almost Grenache-like sweetness in the mouth. Packed with black fruit and spice flavors, with just a moderate, fine, load of tannin. Powerful, but pretty gentle for Mourvedre. Tannin builds, but never shuts down the action. Not wildly complex, but this is almost certain to add some stuff with additional cellar time. PFG.


$30. 14.5% listed alcohol.

Olivares "Altos de la Hoya" Monastrell, Jumilla 2007

Red/purple.

Vinturi - understated nose of raspberry/cherry, gravy, earth and spice.

Linear in the mouth, with fairly strong acid/tannin synergy working against little flesh. Reasonably concentrated, but finishes short and lean (for the moment at least). This may flesh out with a day in the open bottle, but I doubt it.


$15. Synthetic cork - drink over the next year or two.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Umani Ronchi "Jorio" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, slightly saucy nose - blackberry, spicy fig, salami, earth, savory nut.

Much lighter than expected in the mouth, light/middle-weight. Still packs good flavor punch, though, with fairly strong acid/tannin synergy. Feels like Bordeaux (sans new oak). Nice stuff.


$18. 100% Montepulciano.

Pegau "Cuvee Reservee" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999

Red, evolved rim.

Vinturi - expressive, complex nose - grilled herbs, woodsmoke, earth/toasted nut, soy sauce, cherry liqueur and iron. Orange, spicy ketchup and grilled meat as it airs.

Round and mouth-filling, but not "thick". Nice textural sweetness is well-buffered by moderate acidity and an iron "edge". No heat whatsoever. This is still a bit bound up, flavor-wise, but additional airtime should take care of that problem. PFG.


$45. 13.5% listed alcohol.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Quinta do Noval, Vintage Porto 2007

Opaque black/purple.

Vinturi - huge, deep nose of lightly baked black fruit (raspberry, blackberry, fig), earth, hazelnut liqueur, spice, savory meat and a medicinal nuance. Stupid.

Round, huge and sweet initial impression gradually dries out to some extent, yielding a spicy/garrigue character that again reminds me of southern France. Les Cailloux CdP specifically. In fact, this finishes every bit as dry as the Dow's, but starts out far sweeter. Which makes me think I could be dead before this reaches its prime in a 750 mL bottle. So much for Port as mental therapy...

Day 3 - Far deeper and sweeter than the Dow's now. Not as complex at the moment, though. But the depth is crazy. Definitely 6 feet under before these are.

$45, 375mL.

Dow's, Vintage Porto 2007

Opaque black/purple.

Vinturi - Chambord/blackberry sauce/fig paste/earth/hint of celery on the extremely deep nose. Alcohol almost entirely masked.

Deep and intense, with initial sweetness whittled down to an almost dry finish by strong tannin. Brandy peeks out more in the mouth, but nothing crazy. Loaded, but not as flattering young as other producers' wines. Typical of Dow's drier style, apparently. Long, spicy finish shows a celery/garrigue character that is reminiscent of the southern Rhone.

Day 3 - All over the place (in the best sense) now until late in the, still nearly dry, spicy finish.


$38, 375mL. The '94 version was one of my favorites from that vintage. Crazy complexity after several years in the bottle.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Domaine Les Pallieres, Gigondas 2006

Red.

Vinturi - clay/earth, red cherry coulis, lifted spice nose. Hazelnut and pepper with air. Refined, subtle, and PFG.

Round and plush, with textural sweetness buffered by spicy stem tannin. Flows evenly start to finish - spicy red fruit, earth. Long, perfumed. Beautiful stuff, nervy, no fat.


$28. Owned by the Brunier family of Vieux Telegraphe in Chateauneuf du Pape and Kermit Lynch.

Domaine d'Andezon, Cotes-du-Rhone 2006

Purple/red.

Vinturi - very sexy, integrated nose of oak spice, leather, black raspberry, chocolate and earth.

Plush with very nice depth. Fairly strong acidity clamps down in the mid-palate, impeding flavor follow through. But this should work itself out with a couple more years in the bottle. Nice purity - refreshing.


$17

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Dominio de Valdepusa (Marques de Grinon), Petit Verdot 2003

Opaque purple/red.

Vinturi - intense, slightly warm, aromas of spiced fig paste, earth, blackberry pie filling, black pepper. More lifted than it sounds.

Round and packed, with acid/tannin synergy slowing moving in from the sides of the mouth. This is the real deal, far better than a 2001 in Sacramento a few years ago. Loaded in every way, but not overdone. Alcohol is slightly elevated, and will bother some, but easily forgiven in my book. Finishes big and chewy, but not abrasive or brutal. Needs lamb cassoulet (broken record).


$50. Dominio de Valdepusa is its own Denominacion de Origen, the first estate in Spain to be so recognized. 15% alcohol.

Bouza, Tannat, Uruguay 2006

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - deep aromas of earth, oak spice, fig/black fruit reduction.

Round and plush, initially, with a gamey edge. Strong acid/tannin synergy cuts through any textural "give". Front teeth coated in chew. This needs some fat/protein. Impressive. Hard to know where this is going, though.


$20. Great name for a winery.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Marcassin "Tony Zio Ranch" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2003

Light yellow.

Smoke/sulfide/truffle, Meyer lemon flesh and zest, caramel and even a hint of pepper on the nose.

Extremely deep and packed in the mouth, like very few white, or red, wines I've tasted. Sulfides contribute smoke and truffle flavors and also a structural "edge" that cuts through the richness along with fine, strong, acidity. Really remarkable richness/tension. Just want to keep drinking the stuff. Finishes long and subtle, with mineral/sulfide edge and lemon/caramel flavors stuck in the mouth.


$75. Tasted just slightly chilled.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Tenuta delle Terre Nere "Calderara Sottana" Etna Rosso 2005

Red.

Vinturi - deep black cherry/hazelnut liqueur, earth and other stuff I can't articulate. Smells sumptuous.

Deep, plush in the mouth, with great textural sweetness immediately rectified by strong, fine, acidity. This is totally cool action. Much riper in texture and flavor than any Passopisciaro I've had, but not as finely etched.

Day 4 - Much firmer now, no textural sweetness. Shows a smoke/ash/leather character that reminds me of Aglianico.


$25. Nerello Mascalese from Mt. Etna in Sicily. Owned by Marc di Grazia and his brother.

Domaine de Couron, Marselan, Coteaux de l'Ardeche 2007

Purple.

Vinturi - deep, fresh black fruit, earth and oak nut/spice nose.

Round and plush, with some textural sweetness. Tanzer's "urgent" fruit character - reminds me of Priorat to some extent - with strong acidity and moderate tannin. Ultimately, though, this is closer to a really good Cotes-du-Rhone. Gutsy.


$15. Marselan is a French cross (Cabernet Sauvignon X Grenache Noir). This is the first varietal bottling I've seen.

Friday, February 12, 2010

Pallus "Les Pensees de Pallus" Chinon 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - shows the effects of enlightened use of oak - sexy spice/earth/nut, black pepper, black fruit and a floral character on the nose.

Round, mouth-filling with an unobtrusive acid edge that firms things up. This tastes/feels like an extremely well-made Bordeaux with oak in the background. Only more "give" here. Not yet showing much flavor complexity. Give it 5-7 more years in bottle. Acidity increasingly dominates finish, but is not brutal. PFG.

Day 5 - Now showing a red pepper character. Round and deep, but suave as well. A bit of iron in the finish now. RGS.

$28. Cabernet Franc.

Joguet "Les Petites Roches" Chinon 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - deep black fruit, licorice, earth/spice on the nose. No obvious oak.

Round and surprisingly fleshy after the nose. Quite spicy, with intense black fruit flavors and a thread of "green-ness" that is not off-putting. Definitely a middle-weight, with significant acid/tannin synergy in the finish. This will benefit from several more years of cellaring.


$25. Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley.

Brundlmayer, Zweigelt, Rose', Langenloiser 2008

Light pink.

Nose of ruby grapefruit, earth, wax and a hint of the ocean.

Strawberries and citrus in the mouth, with nice flesh and balancing acidity. Tasty - grows on you. Definitely dry in its impression.


$20. Zweigelt is an Austrian red variety. Tin-lined screwcap.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Acustic "Brao" Montsant 2005

Purple/red.

Vinturi - shoe polish, hazelnut, black raspberry coulis, pepper. Tight, linear, complex.

Initial textural sweetness immediately hammered by strong acidity. But has enough mid-palate material to ride through it all. Way young..


$50. Gift from Mike Irwin. Old vine Grenache and Carignan from an area adjacent to Priorat (Spain).

John Duval Wines "Plexus" Barossa Valley 2004

Deep red.

Vinturi - this could only come from Oz - medicinal/meat/toasted nut/slight barnyard/black raspberry nose.

Round and completely plush/confectionary in the mouth. Nothing subtle about this now (much more discreet a couple of years ago). Shows a saline character, too. But I'm not sure this wasn't better a couple of years ago.


$38. From the long-time winemaker of Penfolds. 49% Shiraz, 27% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre.

Ecluse "Rendition" Paso Robles 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - saucy, sumptuous, deep, Paso nose - hazelnut sauce, earth, black fruit. Lacks clarity.

Deep and saucy in the mouth too, and very satisfying. But, again, this shows a blast of one thing, one note. Fun, but hard to enjoy for any length of time.


$40. 59% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 19% Mourvedre. 15.3% listed alcohol.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Walter Dacon, Syrah "Appanage" Boushey Vyds., Yakima Valley 2007

Red/purple.

Vinturi - smoked meat/smoky oak, earth/nut, black raspberry nose. Attractive, open.

Utterly round, mouth-filling, with just a touch of textural sweetness. Opulent, but nicely filled in, slightly grainy/saline impression. Not the deepest or most concentrated wine, but seamless and completely integrated. A beauty that will satisfy almost everyone - Oz meets the n. Rhone. RFG. Just a dusting of tannin on the front teeth to keep it real.


$45. 14.3% alcohol listed.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Thackrey "Sirius" Eaglepoint Ranch (Mendocino) 2001

Saturated purple.

Vinturi - very sexy, sumptuous nose - toasty oak, macaroon, grilled meat, earth and black fruit - reminds me of Mariano Garcia's Aalto from RdD.

Round, mouth-filling and powerful. Exceptionally attractive stuff - deep, even, plush. Even shows a hint of Thackrey's signature eucalyptus. I would never guess this was Petite Sirah. There's tannin here, but it's finely rendered (result of very long maceration? Well over 30 days, approaching 60, if I remember correctly). TFK.


$50.

Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Fontanieu" Bandol 2001

Purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, complex, nose - clay/earth, tree bark, oak spice (but there isn't any new oak here), blackberry, licorice, pepper and a medicinal note.

Round and dense in the mouth, with excellent mid-palate depth. Shows a bit of heat, but nothing crazy. Grainy tannin hits quite late and never quashes flavor flow, which is all black (fruit, licorice) with medicinal character repeating. Front teeth get a bit chewy, though. I wonder when this thing will peak? 5-8 more years?


$25 on release. Just got some '07, which is $28, and still stupidly cheap. 15.5% alcohol listed. 100% Mourvedre.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Tardieu-Laurent "Vieilles Vignes" Cornas 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - crazy, cool, nose - smoke/breakfast sausage, spicy ketchup, wilted greens, potato/earth.

Round and texturally sweet, initially, then chewy stem tannin kicks in to firm things up quickly. But this has very nice mid-palate flesh to buffer structural load. Structure and flavor riding on two parallel tracks. This is FK. Could drink this anytime. This needs some lamb cassoulet, or Caldo Verde from Portugal. Long, chewy, greens/meat/earth finish.


$65.

Clape, Cornas 2001

Deep red.

Vinturi - integrated, complex nose - black raspberry, fig, herbs, licorice, savory earth/nut/spice. Self-contained, subtle.

Mouth-filling and round, with tannin barely noticeable at the periphery of the mouth. Very suave and sexy, especially for Cornas. Tannin builds a bit, but never becomes intrusive. You could actually enjoy this on its own. But the best bet is something simple like grilled lamb sausage.


$50. 100% Syrah from the northern Rhone.