Saturated red/purple.
Authentic, "porty" nose - brandied, intense black fruits, licorice, damp earth. Opened yesterday. Better aromatic integration and expression today.
Sweet and powerful in the mouth, with acidity the main structural component. Very tasty, but lacks the density/extract to fully support its sugar.
$18 375mL
Monday, June 29, 2009
Cedar Creek "Platinum Reserve" Meritage, Okanagan Valley 2002
Saturated red/purple.
Very deep, sumptuous aromas of Bordeaux herbs, chocolate, plum/raspberry sauce and well-integrated oak toast. PFG.
Round, plush and packed. Another wine that sports a saline, defining, edge. Nothing crazy, though. Shows a bit of tomato and pepper in the mouth, too. Acid-driven tannin ultimately constricts the finish.
$50 I don't remember the blend here, but it is Cabernet and Merlot. Micro-ox employed, I think. Early (very good) work from Mr. DiBello. Also opened yesterday.
Very deep, sumptuous aromas of Bordeaux herbs, chocolate, plum/raspberry sauce and well-integrated oak toast. PFG.
Round, plush and packed. Another wine that sports a saline, defining, edge. Nothing crazy, though. Shows a bit of tomato and pepper in the mouth, too. Acid-driven tannin ultimately constricts the finish.
$50 I don't remember the blend here, but it is Cabernet and Merlot. Micro-ox employed, I think. Early (very good) work from Mr. DiBello. Also opened yesterday.
Panther Creek "Shea Vineyard" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2004
Deep red.
Deep, roasted, smoky nose - could be Syrah. Roasted hazelnut, earth and a hint of black fruit.
Deep in the mouth, with a touch of (textural) sweetness. Aromas largely follow nose, with fruit peeking out in the mid-palate and finish. Relatively strong acid/tannin synergy shortens the finish. Also opened yesterday.
$45
Deep, roasted, smoky nose - could be Syrah. Roasted hazelnut, earth and a hint of black fruit.
Deep in the mouth, with a touch of (textural) sweetness. Aromas largely follow nose, with fruit peeking out in the mid-palate and finish. Relatively strong acid/tannin synergy shortens the finish. Also opened yesterday.
$45
Argyle "Reserve" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2005
Slightly dull red.
Spicy, woodsy, cherry nose. Hints of roasted herb and pepper.
Slightly saline, round impression. Then firmed considerably by relatively strong acidity. Opened yesterday, when it showed more textural "give". Very much a crowd-pleaser.
$25
Spicy, woodsy, cherry nose. Hints of roasted herb and pepper.
Slightly saline, round impression. Then firmed considerably by relatively strong acidity. Opened yesterday, when it showed more textural "give". Very much a crowd-pleaser.
$25
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Pax "Obsidian" Syrah, Knights Valley 2003
Opaque (hazy) purple/red.
Vinturi - a multitude of spices, dried fig, menthol, licorice, black raspberry on the nose.
Intense, round and slightly grainy. Deep, but no fat here. This seems more constricted in the finish than previous bottles. Not giving it up. Probably just needs more cellar time, as this is loaded with material.
$50
Vinturi - a multitude of spices, dried fig, menthol, licorice, black raspberry on the nose.
Intense, round and slightly grainy. Deep, but no fat here. This seems more constricted in the finish than previous bottles. Not giving it up. Probably just needs more cellar time, as this is loaded with material.
$50
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2004
Light yellow.
Vinturi - caramel, truffle/smoke/sulfide, lemon peel (underneath) on the nose.
Big, deep, loaded entry. Hugely concentrated, with flavors following the nose. A bit abrasive in the mid-palate, with alcohol and sulfide/tannin/acid structure butting heads. Caramel, lemon, mineral chew finish. Very, very long.
$120
Vinturi - caramel, truffle/smoke/sulfide, lemon peel (underneath) on the nose.
Big, deep, loaded entry. Hugely concentrated, with flavors following the nose. A bit abrasive in the mid-palate, with alcohol and sulfide/tannin/acid structure butting heads. Caramel, lemon, mineral chew finish. Very, very long.
$120
J.J. Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Spatlese 2002
Platinum/straw.
Discreet nose - light petrol, white peach, nectarine.
Fairly sweet initial impression, with perfectly ripe peach/nectarine flavors gradually tightened and focused by fine minerality/acidity. Great balancing act, light, airy. Mineral chew and nectarine pit finish. Could drink a huge amount of this stuff.
Opened yesterday.
$30 7.5% alcohol listed, AP# 2 576 511 27 03
Discreet nose - light petrol, white peach, nectarine.
Fairly sweet initial impression, with perfectly ripe peach/nectarine flavors gradually tightened and focused by fine minerality/acidity. Great balancing act, light, airy. Mineral chew and nectarine pit finish. Could drink a huge amount of this stuff.
Opened yesterday.
$30 7.5% alcohol listed, AP# 2 576 511 27 03
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd., St. Helena 2000
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - another sumptuous wine - oak embers, light eucalyptus, dried fig, black raspberry, grilled meat nose. Reminds me of a great, vibrant, Shiraz.
Deep, with a slight textural sweetness. Immediately tempered by strong acidity. Deep, but relatively one-dimensional. Needs more cellar time.
$75
Vinturi - another sumptuous wine - oak embers, light eucalyptus, dried fig, black raspberry, grilled meat nose. Reminds me of a great, vibrant, Shiraz.
Deep, with a slight textural sweetness. Immediately tempered by strong acidity. Deep, but relatively one-dimensional. Needs more cellar time.
$75
Aalto, Ribera del Duero 2000
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - macaroon, blackberry, black raspberry, toasted oak, spice - can't articulate everything. Sumptuous, like a baked confection.
Deep and broad in the mouth, with a grainy/saline edge. Intense, focused. This is killer. Huge oak influence, but great raw materials and winemaker (Mariano Garcia). And decent bottle age. This will drink well for years to come.
$35 on release
Vinturi - macaroon, blackberry, black raspberry, toasted oak, spice - can't articulate everything. Sumptuous, like a baked confection.
Deep and broad in the mouth, with a grainy/saline edge. Intense, focused. This is killer. Huge oak influence, but great raw materials and winemaker (Mariano Garcia). And decent bottle age. This will drink well for years to come.
$35 on release
Zind Humbrecht, Pinot Gris, Rangen "Clos St. Urbain" 2002
Deep copper/gold.
Deep marmalade, roasted peach and truffle nose.
Quite sweet and concentrated in the mouth, but very well-defined thanks to strong acidity (more than a little VA adds spunk). Somehow manages to show a light touch. Light acid/mineral chew reaches the front teeth.
$30 375mL 15% alcohol, indice 4 (pretty sweet)
Deep marmalade, roasted peach and truffle nose.
Quite sweet and concentrated in the mouth, but very well-defined thanks to strong acidity (more than a little VA adds spunk). Somehow manages to show a light touch. Light acid/mineral chew reaches the front teeth.
$30 375mL 15% alcohol, indice 4 (pretty sweet)
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Ken Estes, Fred Sontag
Ken Estes loved wine and life. No evil bone in his body, just a laugh and another great joke.
Fred Sontag taught many to think, and, eventually, to doubt. All the better for it.
Fred Sontag taught many to think, and, eventually, to doubt. All the better for it.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Mogador 1999 Priorat (Spain)
Purple/red.
Vinturi - shoe polish, toasted oak, prune/blackberry, earth, herb nose. Loaded, deep.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid/saline edge at the outer boundary. Plush mid-palate, though the acid/tannin synergy increases. The '97 reminded me of really good left bank Bordeaux. This brings (very ripe) St. Emilion to mind. And Soumade "Fleur" Rasteau. I'm not sure this has much room to improve, however, so drink it over the next 5-6 years.
$40 on release
Vinturi - shoe polish, toasted oak, prune/blackberry, earth, herb nose. Loaded, deep.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid/saline edge at the outer boundary. Plush mid-palate, though the acid/tannin synergy increases. The '97 reminded me of really good left bank Bordeaux. This brings (very ripe) St. Emilion to mind. And Soumade "Fleur" Rasteau. I'm not sure this has much room to improve, however, so drink it over the next 5-6 years.
$40 on release
Copain 2006 Hacienda Secoya, Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)
Red.
Vinturi - intense, deep, lifted, crancherry, spice, underbrush, oak nut nose.
Round and taut simultaneously, with strong, but fine, acidity driving red fruit and spice flavors. Tanzer's "thrust". Very nice depth and length. Nothing abrasive, but not wimpy either. Built for the cellar, say 4-8 more years.
$45
Vinturi - intense, deep, lifted, crancherry, spice, underbrush, oak nut nose.
Round and taut simultaneously, with strong, but fine, acidity driving red fruit and spice flavors. Tanzer's "thrust". Very nice depth and length. Nothing abrasive, but not wimpy either. Built for the cellar, say 4-8 more years.
$45
Friday, June 12, 2009
Copain, Syrah, Harrison Clarke, Santa Ynez Valley 2006
Deep purple.
Vinturi - low-toned, discreet nose. Beautifully integrated menthol/licorice/bacon/toasted nut/fig sauce aromas. Refined, subtle.
Round and mouth-filling with a surprising, vibrant, citric edge. Classy, interesting stuff, easily dismissed if you're not paying attention. I wasn't, initially. Reminds me of some Chapoutier bottlings in that sense. Unfortunately I only have one bottle left.
Wonder what this will be like in 6-8 years. RFG.
$45 From a site that is, basically, pure limestone.
Vinturi - low-toned, discreet nose. Beautifully integrated menthol/licorice/bacon/toasted nut/fig sauce aromas. Refined, subtle.
Round and mouth-filling with a surprising, vibrant, citric edge. Classy, interesting stuff, easily dismissed if you're not paying attention. I wasn't, initially. Reminds me of some Chapoutier bottlings in that sense. Unfortunately I only have one bottle left.
Wonder what this will be like in 6-8 years. RFG.
$45 From a site that is, basically, pure limestone.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Altovinum "Evodia" Garnacha, Catalayud 2007
Light red.
Vinturi - moderate intensity nose - grapefruit zest, ruby flesh and earth.
Intense grapefruit zest entry, reasonable length. Nice mid-palate freshness and depth. All citrus on the slightly chewy finish. Benefits from air-time. Iron makes a very late appearance.
$11, courtesy of Mr. Bo Stock, as was the Roogle Riesling. This is apparently Eric Solomon's replacement for Las Rocas (brand sold to Gallo). Not sure if this measures up, but I haven't had the '07 Las Rocas "regular".
Vinturi - moderate intensity nose - grapefruit zest, ruby flesh and earth.
Intense grapefruit zest entry, reasonable length. Nice mid-palate freshness and depth. All citrus on the slightly chewy finish. Benefits from air-time. Iron makes a very late appearance.
$11, courtesy of Mr. Bo Stock, as was the Roogle Riesling. This is apparently Eric Solomon's replacement for Las Rocas (brand sold to Gallo). Not sure if this measures up, but I haven't had the '07 Las Rocas "regular".
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Colosi, Nero d'Avola, Sicily 2007
Purple.
Vinturi - great "modern" nose - deep black fruit, clay/earth and spice. Shows nice small barrel elevage (?).
Round, deep and plush in the mouth. Black fruit/earth flavors remind me again (nose does too) of Spanish Monastrell (Juan Gil). Acid drives moderate tannin, but nothing abrasive about this. There's a licorice nuance also. Very good depth and concentration.
$17 Synthetic cork
Vinturi - great "modern" nose - deep black fruit, clay/earth and spice. Shows nice small barrel elevage (?).
Round, deep and plush in the mouth. Black fruit/earth flavors remind me again (nose does too) of Spanish Monastrell (Juan Gil). Acid drives moderate tannin, but nothing abrasive about this. There's a licorice nuance also. Very good depth and concentration.
$17 Synthetic cork
Marquis-Philips "Roogle" Riesling, S.Eastern Australia 2008
Straw.
Talc, nut, apple, lime nose.
Nice initial fruit sweetness plays off of mineral/acid chew. Picks up a ripe peach character in the mid-palate. Bright, fresh and relatively giving for Riesling. Extremely tasty, satisfying action that shows no hardness.
$8 Deal? Screwcap.
Talc, nut, apple, lime nose.
Nice initial fruit sweetness plays off of mineral/acid chew. Picks up a ripe peach character in the mid-palate. Bright, fresh and relatively giving for Riesling. Extremely tasty, satisfying action that shows no hardness.
$8 Deal? Screwcap.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Graham's, Vintage Porto 1994
Dull red.
Vinturi - toasty oak (but there is no new oak used)/grilled meat, cola, dried fig/spice, Amaretto nose. Brandy reasonable well-integrated. Deep, loaded and powerful.
Huge in the mouth with powerful brandy and sweetness giving this a liqueur character. Hugely sweet, but it works, and keeps on giving in the finish. Blueberry, raspberry, blackberry. You barely notice the tannic edge that frames it all. Really long. RFG
Day 3 - Totally killer nose - blackberry/raisin custard, Amaretto. Just all over the place - sloppy (in the best sense of that word) - in the mouth. Manages to cut through all the sugar and opulence with tremendous structure, finishing almost like a dry red, but with dessert wine length. Amaretto. Could go blind drinking this.
$35 375mL
Vinturi - toasty oak (but there is no new oak used)/grilled meat, cola, dried fig/spice, Amaretto nose. Brandy reasonable well-integrated. Deep, loaded and powerful.
Huge in the mouth with powerful brandy and sweetness giving this a liqueur character. Hugely sweet, but it works, and keeps on giving in the finish. Blueberry, raspberry, blackberry. You barely notice the tannic edge that frames it all. Really long. RFG
Day 3 - Totally killer nose - blackberry/raisin custard, Amaretto. Just all over the place - sloppy (in the best sense of that word) - in the mouth. Manages to cut through all the sugar and opulence with tremendous structure, finishing almost like a dry red, but with dessert wine length. Amaretto. Could go blind drinking this.
$35 375mL
Warre's, Vintage Porto 1997
Dull, deep red.
Vinturi - deep, saucy, blackberry jam nose, with celery aspect adding lift (believe it or not). Truffle/earth again, too. I don't see as much brandy showing here. Continues to expand with air.
Really deep and plush, with considerable power. But doesn't show as much complexity (yet) as the '95. Structure is considerable, but it only touches the front teeth. Walnut finish. This stuff is fun to drink.
$35 375mL
Vinturi - deep, saucy, blackberry jam nose, with celery aspect adding lift (believe it or not). Truffle/earth again, too. I don't see as much brandy showing here. Continues to expand with air.
Really deep and plush, with considerable power. But doesn't show as much complexity (yet) as the '95. Structure is considerable, but it only touches the front teeth. Walnut finish. This stuff is fun to drink.
$35 375mL
Warre's "Quinta da Cavadinha" Vintage Porto 1995
Slightly dull red/purple.
Vinturi - medicinal, spicy, inky black fruit, truffle nose. Suggestion of celery (stems?) and brandy, too. Love the nose.
Very deep, powerful, core of spicy black fruit, with brandy and RS surrounding. Finishes with sweetness thoroughly buffered by tannic structure. Actually chewy. I really like this stuff.
$30 375mL
Vinturi - medicinal, spicy, inky black fruit, truffle nose. Suggestion of celery (stems?) and brandy, too. Love the nose.
Very deep, powerful, core of spicy black fruit, with brandy and RS surrounding. Finishes with sweetness thoroughly buffered by tannic structure. Actually chewy. I really like this stuff.
$30 375mL
Friday, June 5, 2009
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2003 Bandol
Deep red.
Vinturi - harmonious nose - iron, black cherry jam, nut liqueur, earth.
Rounder, sweeter (texturally) than the '01, but follows with some serious side teeth tannic clout. Doesn't seem to have the same depth as the '01, just more flashy, initially, thanks to a hotter, "riper" vintage. Tannin level increases as the wine sits.
Day 4 - Vinturi - again, similar to day 1, just deeper. Ditto in the mouth. Tannin is abrasive and unlikely to recede.
$25 These are 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Vinturi - harmonious nose - iron, black cherry jam, nut liqueur, earth.
Rounder, sweeter (texturally) than the '01, but follows with some serious side teeth tannic clout. Doesn't seem to have the same depth as the '01, just more flashy, initially, thanks to a hotter, "riper" vintage. Tannin level increases as the wine sits.
Day 4 - Vinturi - again, similar to day 1, just deeper. Ditto in the mouth. Tannin is abrasive and unlikely to recede.
$25 These are 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2001 Bandol
Red/purple.
Vinturi - menthol/iodine, clay/earth, dried fig, spiced black cherry jam nose. Deep, shows slight heat.
Intense middle-weight. Earth, spice, iodine flavors and, again some heat. Excellent concentration and grainy/chewy finish. I remember enjoying this far more a couple of years ago. But it probably just needs more air and/or cellar time.
Day 4 - Vinturi - same nose, deeper, without any sense of heat. Ditto in the mouth, packed, heat gone. Now this reminds me a bit of the recent Malbecs, only more concentrated, strange as that might sound. Significant acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish, but menthol/iodine action runs through it. Grainy, loaded. Will this drink well for 15-20 more years?
$25
Vinturi - menthol/iodine, clay/earth, dried fig, spiced black cherry jam nose. Deep, shows slight heat.
Intense middle-weight. Earth, spice, iodine flavors and, again some heat. Excellent concentration and grainy/chewy finish. I remember enjoying this far more a couple of years ago. But it probably just needs more air and/or cellar time.
Day 4 - Vinturi - same nose, deeper, without any sense of heat. Ditto in the mouth, packed, heat gone. Now this reminds me a bit of the recent Malbecs, only more concentrated, strange as that might sound. Significant acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish, but menthol/iodine action runs through it. Grainy, loaded. Will this drink well for 15-20 more years?
$25
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Eddie Feraud, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003
Red.
Vinturi - all sorts of stuff going on. Deep kirsch, blood/iron, earth, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs. No sense of heat, just depth.
Round, sweet and loaded in the mouth, too. A bit edgy at the perimeter - CO2, VA? Root veg the dominant theme. Great concentration and length. Need to do a cousin smackdown with a Pegau '03.
$40
Vinturi - all sorts of stuff going on. Deep kirsch, blood/iron, earth, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs. No sense of heat, just depth.
Round, sweet and loaded in the mouth, too. A bit edgy at the perimeter - CO2, VA? Root veg the dominant theme. Great concentration and length. Need to do a cousin smackdown with a Pegau '03.
$40
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