Friday, July 31, 2009

Grosset, Polish Hill Vyd., Riesling, Clare Valley 2005

Straw/yellow.

Earth/nut, lemon/lime, apple core, "mineral" nose.

Bracing, exceedingly pure flavors of lime, lemon. Extremely intense/vibrant, with mineral, front teeth "chew" following. Apple character shows late. Blatantly "dry", although this may have some RS, as it shows some citrus flesh now, not just zest. Or is this a result of bottle-age? Built for a very long haul.

$28 Tin-lined screwcap. Grosset was one of the screwcap pioneers.

Torbreck "The Factor" (Shiraz) Barossa Valley 2002

Saturated red/purple.

Vinturi - refined nose - nut liqueur, creosote, pepper, fig, spice, black raspberry, earth ... Increasingly complex as it airs.

Deep, plush entry with immediate, persistent framing acidity. Shows slight heat. Tannin is a bit chewy/rustic. Nice, subtle length of raspberry, leather and spice flavors. This will be drinking well for a long time.

Day 5 - End of the bottle. Nose is killer/integrated and reminds me of vintage port (sans brandy). Round and saline in the mouth and completely packed. No hint of alcohol. Absolutely FK.

$80. I think this sees only older barrels and is 100% Syrah.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Palacios "Petalos" 2005 (Bierzo, Spain)

Red/purple.

Vinturi - toasted oak, earth, fig, baking spices and a hint of fresh herbs on the nose.

Round and mouth-filling, with a deep earth/spice character. Minor acid/saline intrusion lifts low-toned flavors and reveals a floral citrus note. Actually finishes with pungent, chewy, citrus resonance.


$18

Thackrey "Andromeda" Pinot Noir, Devil's Gulch Ranch, Marin County 2002

Deep red, slightly dull rim.

Vinturi - savory/saucy nose - meat drippings, pepper, earth, red cherry, suave oak spices.

Round, with a fairly strong edge of acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Nice, vibrant red cherry/spice flavors. Acidity constricts the finish a bit. Intense middle-weight, despite alcohol listed at 15.1%. Red cherry kicks back in, late. 5-6 more years in the cellar?

Day 2 - more savory/umami action. Meat drippings/red cherry coulis/suave spice. My 12 year old loves the aromatics. Ditto in the mouth. Deep, but has lift and structure. Rocks hard.

$45

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Darling Cellars "Onyx" "Kroon" Groenekloof (West Coast, South Africa) 1999

Deep red.

Vinturi - smoke/bacon/brown sugar/raspberry sauce nose. Add pancakes and you've got breakfast. Some grilled herb action floating around too.

Round, plush, filled-in. But not heavy at all, despite fairly thick smoky bacon flavor (heavy toast American). There's a saline/grainy quality. Intensely flavored middle-weight. Unusual. Huge oak influence, but it works.

Tanzer shot a big biscuit over the '99 Shiraz from this producer (years ago) and gave high marks to this wine as well. I think it is a Pinotage/Shiraz blend ... Crazy, convoluted labeling.

$30

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc 2006

Straw/yellow.

Nut paste, pear, lemon, pineapple aromas. Finely-etched, pure.

Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering acid/mineral edge. Killer. Vibrant, lifted, slightly floral. Long, tactile finish of nuts and pineapple. Nothing heavy or dull here. I shouldn't have opened this (last bottle) - love to see it in 3-4 years.


$55. A blend that includes a hefty percentage of Clairette (an esoteric Rhone variety)

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Breton, Chinon (Cabernet Franc, Loire Valley) "Beaumont" 2005

Opaque red/purple.

No Vinturi (synthetic cork). Smells like loaded Bordeaux - deep black currant, marzipan, earth, toasted oak(?).

Deep middle-weight, with strong acidity and moderate tannin. Very nice mid-palate flesh. Shows little oak influence in the mouth. Finishes lean/front teeth coating chew - black currant. Great wine for foodies.

Day 4 - No real aromatic change. This is deep/packed. This isn't the ethereal/Pinot style of CF. No obvious oxidation in the mouth either. But it would be foolish to cellar this for more than another year or two (closure issue).

$20. Crazy deal - just with they'd used another closure.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Algueira, Ribeira Sacra 2004

Deep red.

Vinturi - savory nose - toasted oak/nut, slow roasted meat, earth with black fruit underneath.

Round and low-toned in the mouth, with an earth/spice/pepper character that reminds me of Rioja to some extent. A medicinal/saline nuance also. Fine acidity slowly shows itself. This is really good. Nice chewy, earth/spice finish.


$25. 100% Mencia

Domaine du Vissoux "Poncie" Fleurie (Beaujolais) 2007

Red.

Herbs, fresh earth, raspberry, light pepper/citrus nose. Nice.

Intensely flavored on entry, herbs and earth (beet), with strong acidity. Light bodied. Very lively, with nice peppery length.
Very tasty. 12.5% alcohol listed.

$18?

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Astrales, Ribera del Duero 2003

Purple/red.

Vinturi - grilled oak, black raspberry, earth, slight coconut nose.

Round, suave and intensely flavored. Strong acidity keeps this wine's fruit sweetness nicely in check. Long, perfumed, moderately tannic finish. I'd never think this was from 2003. Really good action that could use 4-6 more years of bottle age.

$40

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Prager, Riesling, Smaragd, Klaus, 2003 (Austria)

Light yellow.

Lemon zest/flesh, spice, fresh herbs/flowers, light earth nose. But there's something deeper, sumptuous - nut/meat action- here. Really grows on you.

Deep and powerful in the mouth. Absolutely loaded, with lemon (marmalade)/herb/floral character repeating. There's a decent bit of RS, but strong acid/mineral chew more than matches it. Long, pungent, chewy finish. FK.

$40

Friday, July 17, 2009

Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2002

Deep, saturated red.

Vinturi - deep, sumptuous nose - smoke, herbs, hazelnut sauce, brine, tomato/bruschetta, smoked meat. Very deep/loaded. Keeps adding stuff as it airs that I can't describe. Red licorice?

Completely round and mouth-filling, packed but no weight. Acid/slight VA edge is noticeable, but welcome, adding spicy lift.
Tanzer's "3-D" texture that reminds me of certain Alban Syrahs. Which also, routinely, show no heat, despite high alcohol.

Somebody better grab this bottle soon, or I'll be sleeping through tomorrow.

$90. 14.9% alcohol.

Guigal, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000

Red, evolved rim.

Vinturi - grilled herbs, nut sauce, spicy ketchup, earth nose. Interesting.

Round, mouth-filling, with a nice edge of acidity framing everything. Seamless and unforced. Grilled/smoky herb character repeats strongly. Stems? Deep and plush spicy ketchup flavors too. As with almost every "basic" appellation bottling from Guigal, this is textbook stuff. Modern, suave winemaking, but no noticeable new oak. And cheap for what you get.

$30?

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Clos des Llops "Clos Manyetes" Priorat 2000

Red.

Vinturi - creosote, maple candy, earth and suggestions (barely) of red and black fruit on the nose.

Round. Slight textural sweetness is immediately rectified by fairly stiff acid/tannin synergy. This ain't garnacha-based. But maintains nice flavor flow through the finish. More giving as it airs.

Day 4 - Creosote, herbs and sweet/floral fruit nose. Much rounder and broader today - I'd think this was Grenache-based. Showing reasonably fine acid-driven structure, some "mineral" action too. No bitching about the cork now.

$50 on release. Uncoated cork (not the best seal). Why Barbier used uncoated corks at Mogador and LLops for so long is beyond me. Based on Carignan.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Muga "Torre Muga" Rioja 2001

Purple/red.

Vinturi - great nose - pepper, earth, hazelnut, coconut .. Very deep, integrated and subtle. Can't articulate.

Round with some initial black fruit sweetness, then fairly intense acidity kicks in, as do citrus zest/pepper/grilled meat flavors. Still strong acid/mineral/tannin chew on the finish. This rocks. Like the Monasterio, this is nowhere close to maturity. What a great contrast - RdD/Rioja. Never guess these are based on the same variety w/o prior experience.

$55 on release.

Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2001

Purple/red.

Vinturi - suave oak toast, menthol, earth, black fruit, spice nose. Light green pepper note adds lift.

Deep and saturated in the mouth, no hard edges, but no sweetness either. More than a little "Bordeaux" in style. But fruit here is more baked (not pejorative). Tannin is still fairly stiff in the finish, but this just needs several more years in bottle.

Day 2 - Ah, now this is kicking in. Deeper, with green element now seamlessly woven into black fruit custard and sumptuous spices. Very deep and long.

$35 on release. Tempranillo and Cabernet primarily, made by Mr. Sisseck.

Schloss Lieser, Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Spatlese, M-S-R 2002

Brilliant straw.

Smoke, walnut, peanut sauce and nectarine flesh on the discreet nose. There's a lurking petrol note too.

Deep (for German Riesling), fleshy, ripe nectarine flesh and pit. Strong mineral/acid structure basically slices right through the fruit/sweetness, getting the upper hand on the long, subtle, mineral chew finish. Nectarine and custard in a supporting role. Another wine you'd never get tired of drinking.


$22 on release. Stupidly cheap.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Mas des Dames "La Dame" Coteaux du Languedoc 2007

Red/purple.

Vinturi - crazy S. France nose - green herbs (oregano), game (brett? not at all clear), shoe polish/tar, pepper, lavender, raspberry coulis. Ridiculously complex and vivid for something so cheap.

Middle-weight, with creamy depth framed by strong acidity. Intensely flavored and structured, a bit like Priorat. No easy sweetness. This will benefit from 4-5 years of additional bottle age.

Day 5 - Still vibrant/vivid, just deeper. Really stupid. Should be a glass pour at any serious restaurant.

$15. 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah. Opened yesterday. Twin top technical cork.

Chateau Bel Air, Bordeaux Superieur 2005

Deep red.

Vinturi - low-toned, fairly deep nose - clay/earth, black raspberry, mint.

Round initial impression immediately tempered by strong acidity and modest concentration. Reasonably intense flavors, but definitely much leaner than the nose suggests. But at this price, still a great house wine. I had it with grilled chicken. Great match.

$9. 82% Merlot. Opened yesterday.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Pertimali (Sassetti), Brunello di Montalcino 1997

Deep red.

Vinturi - earth/bricks/shoe polish/black cherry jam/toasted nut nose.

Round and deep, but a bit facile, particularly following the Lagrange. Iron and cherry flavors with fairly strong acidity clamping on the finish. This needs more time.

$50

Chateau Lagrange, St. Julien 1996

Deep red.

Vinturi - beautiful, pure, nose of oak toast, Bordeaux herbs, blackcurrant, black raspberry, hazelnut liqueur, black licorice, menthol, earth ... Holy shit, this is killer.

Round, deep, with some textural sweetness. Blackcurrant, black raspberry, herb and earth/toast flavors unimpeded by fine acid/tannin synergy that sneaks up on the side teeth. This is RFG, and still has room to grow.


$ ? I think Dr. Modak brought an '88 to a tasting of 1st growths a few years ago. That bottle (my first Lagrange) rocked also.

Chateau Leoville Poyferre, St. Julien 1996

Deep, saturated red.

Vinturi - iron/suave barrel toast/grilled herbs/earth (light brett, but attractive)/blackcurrant/flowers on the nose. Integrated, subtle, interesting.

Round middle-weight. Firm structure slowly reveals itself, but does not shut down blackcurrant/earth/ember flavors. Not incredible, but very satisfying action. It seems to me that this could use another 4-5 years in the cellar.

$ ?

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Kongsgaard, 63% Roussanne 37% Viognier, 2005 Napa Valley

Yellow.

Smoke, grilled peach/apricot, caramel, pepper/spice nose.

Round and lusciously sweet texture, but decidedly dry. Bonefest. Long, exotic, minerally, caramel, floral finish. Way too easy (and delicious).


$75

Copain, Roussanne, James Berry Vyd. 2004

Light yellow.

Almond paste, light popcorn, flowers, caramel, apricot nose. Evolves with air and warming.

Round, deep, and intense - almond/caramel/citrus/peach/mineral flavors. Structure is a bit aggressive at the moment, really clamping down on the front teeth. But then a lime note works its way out ... Wild, loaded, stuff. Might be in a weird phase, but I'd think this could drink well for many more years.

$40

Yalumba, Viognier (organically grown), South Australia 2007

Bright light yellow.

Reticent flint, lychee, and spice aromas. A floral quality too.

Round and mouthcoating. Almost waxy feel, like Marsanne, but not oily. Very bright, with a peppery character to the apricot and lychee flavors. Not incredibly concentrated, but quite satisfying from every angle. Almost bracingly dry finish. Foodies will love this.

$15? Can't remember. Screwcap

Martinsancho, Verdejo, Rueda (Spain) 2007

Bright, light yellow.

Musky kiwi, spice, fresh oregano aromatics.

Nice breadth in the mouth, with ripe lemon, pear and tropical fruit flavors playing off strong mineral/acid structure. Very refreshing with good, chewy, length.

$20

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

K Vintners, Syrah "Milbrandt" Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley 2006

Deep purple/red.

Vinturi - integrated, discreet nose - wilted herbs, toasted nut, savory meat. Raspberry undertone.

Deep, natural, feel in the mouth. Acidity is reasonably strong, but does not intrude. Herbs and smoke, with the sour green edge Cote Rotie often has (much more pleasant than it sounds). An exuberant raspberry note on the long finish. Very nice, and will drink well for 5-8 more years, maybe longer.

$30

Tapteil, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain (Yakima Valley) 2004

Saturated purple/red.

Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - coconut/macaroon, grilled meat, earth/oak spice. Smells like something from Spain (RdD). Pepper late.

Deep and plush in the mouth with coconut (attractive) front and center. Herbs and blackcurrant further down the line. A bit rustic and chewy, but loaded. This is RGS. Real substance here.


$30

Cadaretta, Merlot, Columbia Valley 2006

Deep red.

Vinturi - raspberry, slight shoe polish, oak toast/earth. Attractive, suave.

Ditto in the mouth, lean, but has nice depth of flavor and brightness. Grows on you. Nothing massive about this. Refined and lifted in the final analysis, with Tanzer's "sneaky length".

$40 14.9% alcohol listed