Kaesler, Barossa Valley, "The Bogan" 2005

Purple/black.

Huge pool of aromas - toasted coconut, spicy/peppery jammy black fruit.

Sweet, loaded initial mouth impression, shows a bit of alcohol, but just a bit. All over the mouth, grainy extract and sweet fruit slugging it out. I need stuff like this every 2-3 months - is it going to get better in the bottle? Whatever.

Forgot - 16% alcohol

Day 3 - Nose completely melded now, no alcohol in sight. All kinds of things aromatically - mint, toast, black raspberry, earth ... Still huge in the mouth, with fresh red and black raspberry ruling. Still a hint of alcohol. Fun, deep stuff. Get laid.

$60? gift

Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Cotes-du Rhone, 2005

Purple/red.

Fresh, understated nose - clay, undifferentiated (currently) black fruit and spice. Or is that spicy fig?
I'd guess this was Spanish, certainly not, in my book, an insult.

Really round and packed in the mouth, with, again, a Spanish citrus note. So much for what I said about France and citrus a few days ago. This would have been a great tasting companion to the Las Rocas VV 2003. Acidity is the primary sructural force here, driving moderate tannin. Long, taut finishing flavor.

Buy this. The 1985 version was my intro to southern France, and it was a revelation/come to Jesus event.

20th anniversary?

Day 3 - A bit more expressive/melded nose now. Still vibrant, though. Very little has changed in the mouth. This will be around for many years. The wine's purity is a huge departure from efforts in the 80's.


$30

Lafond Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Lafond Vyd, 2003

Purple/red.

Now this is a great contrast to the Argyle - deep, dark fruit and toasted oak nose. The nose reminds me of a barrel-aged southern Rhone (Brusset, recently). Only much more suave.

Round and very filled-in. Serious, packed Pinot, no stems in sight. There is tannin here, but the flavor-stuffing just rides over it. This rocks.

Day 3 - Deep black fruit and nut liqueur aromas. But this still has a Pinot umami/textural plushness on the nose. Not over-ripe or over-extracted. Really good in the mouth, but I doubt it will develop into something profound.

$45? gift

Argyle, Pinot Noir "Nuthouse" Willamette Valley 2004

Light red.

Bright red fruit (cran/raspberry/cherry) and herb/underbrush nose. A bit slutty/sumptuous too.

Really round and seamless, yet has nice framing acidity. Nice depth of fruit/spice, with no tannin to get in the way of the very long/extremely tasty finish. The slutty/sumptuous thing, fortunately, repeats in the mouth.

Screwcap - which is interesting. When I opened and tasted this an hour ago, there was nothing interesting going on.

PFG now.

Day 3 - Fresh sage on the nose now (memory thanks to Canela's porch 2 days ago). Not quite as bright in the mouth, but even longer on the finish. Seems to be filtered, so I'd drink this over the near term, for pure fruit/herb pleasure.


$45? gift

Pax Syrah "Cuvee Keltie" North Coast 2005

Deep purple/red.

Licorice, menthol, spicy fig. Intense, deep.

Saturated black fruit and spice in the mouth, with slightly grainy tannin immediately evident. A hint of cheese. Not at all a blockbuster. Very long chewy/grainy finishing flavors that include jalapeno.

I think this is 100% whole cluster, neutral oak aged.

$75

Feudi di San Gregorio, "Serpico", Irpinia (Italy) 2001

Saturated purple/black.

Deep black fruit (raisin, blackberry) and allspice aromas. Attractive and intense.

Much more giving in the mouth than my last bottle, almost creamy, with serious acid/tannin synergy hitting later. There's a baked (in a positive sense) character to the fruit as well as a charry notion that may not be oak derived. This is loaded.

Seems obvious that this benefits from great winemaking.

Opened 4 hours ago. 100% Aglianico

Day 3 - For lack of a better word - "rocky" nose. Others talk about lava/volcanic aromas. Whatever it is, it smells like nothing else. Utterly packed in the mouth, huge, spicy black fruit with an intense, grainy tannic backbone. Flavors just drive on and on.

Killer

$50

Brusset, "Hauts de Montmirail", Gigondas 2000

Deep red/purple.

Oak smoke/grilled meat, sauteed mushroom/onion aromas. Plum underneath.

Intense, grainy, packed entry. Center-loaded, with slightly rustic structure coating the front teeth. Doesn't give up much flavor in the mouth, only iron in the finish. This is one burly dude. Black raspberry shows with a bit of air.

We'll see what airtime does, but this seems to need many more years in the bottle.

Day 4 - Like a spicy black fruit pudding aromatically, with char and oak spice notes thrown in. Ridiculous. Still very deep in the mouth, but showing a sweetness that reminds me a bit of really packed Chateauneuf. Huge structure now an afterthought.


$30 on release

Chateau Leoville Barton, St. Julien 1994

Deep red, light rim.

Attractive, melded, expressive, Bordeaux nose - toast, wilted greens, iron, blackcurrant, clay ... Keeps changing focus with air.

Very much a middle-lightweight in the mouth. Nice density of flavor - iron, blackcurrant and earth repeat. Tapers a bit in the finish, but then rebounds with subtle iron and earth notes. Still has a tannic backbone, but well-balanced.

This should drink well for 5-6 more years, I'd think.

Day 2 - Smoke/toast/embers/earth/wilted greens/chocolate/truffle. Great nose. Suave, yet structured, in the mouth. Very nicely balanced/integrated wine. A good example of Bordeaux's allure.


Gift - $40 on release?

Colonial Estate, "Envoy", GSM Barossa Valley 2004

Red.

Light spice, slightly sour (VA?) aromas. Nothing attractive.

Round and mouth-filling, but abrasive, with a sharp acid edge that seems acetic. Definitely unpleasant, with no fruit in the mouth either.


This winery recently changed importers. As a result, I got this at half-price ($15).

Hopefully this is a bad bottle, but there is no indication of a bad cork or heat damage.

Zind Humbrecht, Heimbourg, Gewurtztraminer 2000

Yellow, slight gold.

Smoky, roasted botrytis aromas with pineapple preserves underneath.

Very sweet initial impression, with framing acidity and "chew" slowly showing themselves. Very tasty and deep, but one-dimensional. Unfortunately missing the spicy, floral lift of great Gewurtztraminer. Or is it swamped by sugar?

15% alcohol

Day 2 - More spicy/floral today (warmer wine temp.) - lichee candy, grapefruit zest too. This translates into the mouth. Still, this is a very good, but not killer, example.


$45

Kunin "Pape Star", Larner Vyds, Santa Ynez Valley 2004

Red.

Bright, clear red fruit on the nose. Which is probably why I see something Oz-like here. Easy-going and simple. Some clay notes late.

Sweet in the mouth, with little to impede cran/cherry/raspberry flavors. Nice acidity to frame flavors. More Oz-like in the mouth. Very pure, very simple. Tasty, with good length.

60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah


Day 4 - Ditto.

$20

Palacios "Petalos" 2003 (Bierzo, Spain)

Deep red/purple.

Spicy/meaty/earthy nose. Slight game/brett, but not ridiculous.

Quite round, with light, but insistent, structure hitting late. Spicy, meat/game flavors show little in the way of obvious fruit, but I really don't miss it. Long, subtle finish rides through tannic chew.

Interesting, "real" wine for little $$


Day 4 - Citrus and A-1 steak sauce. A raw intensity in the mouth (this has tightened up with air) - screams for real food - lamb, cream or reduction sauces.


$15

Las Rocas Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Catalayud (Spain) 2003

Red/purple.

Deep cherry/kirsch aromatics, with hints of citrus, garrigue/earth and oak(?) spice. Seems to have more layers on the nose than the Tres Picos, but the latter wine has greater purity.

Suave and deep in the mouth, with tannin providing a good bit of the structural impact. Nice sweetness in the mouth. This could easily get lost in a southern Rhone tasting. Citrus shows in the mouth here, too, but spicy cherry action keeps up with it.

From what I've seen, citrus is a Spanish Garnacha characteristic. I can't remember getting citrus from French Grenache-based wine.

Absurd value, but that's hardly news.

Day 4 - Citrus front and center now, aromas and flavors. Pungently so. Retains a garrigue character and a seamlessness that differentiate it from the Tres Picos. This will be around for years.

$15

Borsao Garnacha "Tres Picos" 2004 (Campo de Borja)

Red/purple.

Pure fruit (black raspberry/cherry) and allspice aromatics. Just a hint of citrus now. Very good depth.

Textural tension immediately - strong acidity balancing sweet/creamy roundness. Pungent citrus flavors still dominate in the mouth, more orange than grapefruit. Ultimately, this needs more time, as it is quite bound up in the finish. Or serve it now with red meat and/or cream sauces

An $11 bottle that needs to be cellared?

Day 4 - Not greatly changed (I think this has been filtered). Bright, delineated. It occurs to me that Ringland has had an influence here, as the Alto Moncayo wines must be made at Borsao.

Castellani, Cinque Stelle (5 star), Monte Cristi, Amarone 1997

Deep, slightly dull, red.

Smoke, dried herbs, charcoal, A1 steak sauce, truffle/earth, grilled meat and a deep, primal, black fruit character on the nose. Smells incredibly deep, slight suggestion of alcohol. Now red fruit ...

Round, creamy impression in the mouth. Grainy, just like the Allegrini, but suaver, flows better. Probably because there is no new oak here. Again, this is like "dry" cherry jam in the mouth. The concentration in both wines is remarkable for dry red wine. In fact, they seem like red versions of the Marcassin Chardonnay. How can dry wine be this packed and still dance?

A certain friend of mine, Albert K., loves this wine, and has consumed far more than his fair share when a bottle is within his reach. One reason why I have so few bottles left.

Day 4 - More of a whole meal on the nose now - slow-roasted meat, sauteed onion/mushroom, cherry jam ...



$36 (believe it or not) on release

Allegrini Amarone 1997

Deep red, garnet rim.

Smoke/truffle, amaretto, prune, black raspberry, maple syrup, dried herb nose. This just keeps giving - tobacco, soy sauce, cherry jam... I opened this 1/2 hour ago and didn't get anything interesting on the nose.

Intense, not quite sweet, textural impression. Grainy sensation of extract, but not creamy either. Alcohol shows a bit throughout the experience. Sounds stupid, but it's kind of like cherry jam without the (additional) sugar. Truffle/earth shows too, but the aromatic complexity is not (yet?) matched in the mouth. Mild tannin eventually becomes noticeable.

Day 4 - Still packed and complex aromatically. Similar in the mouth too, with alcohol still showing.

This may never die.

$50 on release

Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vyd 2002 (Sonoma Coast)

Slightly hazy yellow.

Truffle/sulfide, caramel, sauteed meat (veal?) nose with lemon oil underneath. Smells deep and rich.

Really packed, wildly concentrated flavors of lemon sauce, caramel, truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion. Structure is fairly easy-going for this bottling, as the acidity seems moderate as does the sulfide/phenolic edge. Nice tension - there's also a textural sweetness start to finish. And, as usual, the finish of caramel/sulfides just doesn't quit.

Really wonderful integration - stupendous concentration and lightness of touch. 14.3% alcohol.

Interesting point - this wine would be considered flawed in many wine competitions.

Stupid. After tasting many bottles of Marcassin, you almost forget why (in the best vintages/more often than not) this stuff is on another level.

$100

Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2006

Platinum/straw.

Vibrant, "minerally" nose of ripe apple/pear. Some might even say steel. This smells like (really good) Chablis from a riper year. Or ripe Albarino.

Mineral/steel immediately in the mouth, with very intense/fresh flavors of ripe apple and a bit of pear. A bit of excess SO2 that I seemed to get in the nose is more obvious in the mouth. But it really doesn't distract much. No fat at all here. Very good depth of flavor, tapers somewhat in the finish. Very late note of iron (no, not steel).

Completely unexpected, very interesting. Courtesy of T. Bostock.
No way I'd guess CdP Blanc.


$35

Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2004

Opaque purple.

Deep, savory nose - grilled meat, oak toast, pepper steak, potato and a hint of coconut. Aromas for real "foodies".

Really packed and plush in the mouth, with slightly grainy tannin omnipresent, but in the background, at least initially. Flavors flow well until the finish, where the tannin completely coats the front teeth.

Killer. Very long chewy, meaty/peppery finish. Nowhere near primetime.

Day 4 - Nose still deep, black and charred. Still packed and plush in the mouth. Alcohol now peeks out a bit. No shortage of tannic structure, which is probably the calling card of Toro. Every tooth in the mouth dusted with chewy tannin and extended flavor.


$50

Numanthia Toro (Spain) 2004

Deep purple/red.

Confectionary, almost New-World, aromatics - cotton candy, red and black raspberry - with A1 steak sauce and a brambly Zinfandel-like character in the background.

Sweet initial textural impression is immediately buffered by finely-grained, persistent tannin that coats the front teeth.
Fruit aspect (both colors of raspberry) shows in the mouth too. Structure and flavor on two tracks, neither cancelled out.
This is really concentrated, like the '01, but in an entirely different style.

Day 4 - Still a wild confection on the nose. Quite sweet textural impression, with tannin pushed further back in the mouth. Nevertheless, there is enormous tannic clout in the finish, coating every tooth.


$50

Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2001

Deep purple/red.

More aromatically expressive than the Numanthia '01 - but also more obvious oak influence. Aromas of oak spice, toasted nut, grilled meat.

Plush, mouth-filling entry, with slightly grainy tannin hitting in the mid-palate and really clamping down in the finish. This is an interesting comparison. I get the impression that the Numanthia has better underlying "material", but the Pintia benefits from great winemaking/elevage.

Both wines will be fun to watch over the years.

Day 4 - There's an exotic note in the nose now - this actually reminds me of a dessert, tawny muscat from Oz. There's a rose liqueur/praline note. No shit. I got something similar from the '04 earlier today. Go figure. In the mouth we still get charcoal, grilled oak ... and huge structure. Less open now than the Numanthia '01.


$45

Numanthia Toro (Spain) 2001

Deep red/purple.

A1 steak sauce, earth and light coconut nose with blackberry underneath.

Extremely intense, nearly painful, acid/tannin synergy on entry. Quite linear throughout, with structure muting flavor expression in the mouth. With a bit of air, fruit (blackberry pudding) peeks out somewhat. This is loaded. How long will we need to wait? Given that this is six years old already, I'd say at least 5-6 more years.

Day 4 - Earthy blackberry, light coconut now the primary aromas. Much more pliant in the mouth, even some real textural sweetness, at least initially. Blackberry pie filling, then the energetic, reasonably fine tannins smack down the finish.

This is loaded, just need to be patient.


$45 on release

Windwalker, Primitivo, Shady Lady, Amador County 2004

Deep red.

Deep cherry jam/kirsch aromatics with a nice earth/oak component. Another Zin (Primitivo clone) that reminds me a bit of Priorat.

Sweet and intense in the mouth, with packed red raspberry coulis flavors. Even has the astringency/flavor of raspberry seeds.
Acidity is strong here too, with more tannin than the SF Zin. Nothing crazy though. Slight heat, but who cares? Very long raspberry finish.

Man, this is good.

Day 4 - A bit muddled on the nose, but deep. Retains its depth in the mouth too, with late, acid-edged raspberry seed character lifting relatively thick palate. Seems more concentrated than the SF Zin, but a bit duller.

$30? Gift

Windwalker Zinfandel Sierra Foothills 2005

Red.

Nice, fresh aromas of spicy raspberry, pepper and sawn (red?)wood (not from oak). Smells plush.

It is. Sweet, round and mouth-filling. Fragrant, fresh sawn wood character repeats, now reminds me of balsa, as does the raspberry aspect. Acidity is the primary structural agent - tannin is fine - but eventually reaches the front teeth. Excellent concentration and very good length.

This is really good stuff.

Day 4 - This has lost nothing. Still round and mouth-filling, with fragrant wood character evident. Nice framing acidity.


$25? Gift

Foradori, Granato, Teroldego Rotaliano 1998

Very deep red.

Deep, suave, smoky, oak spice nose.

Lean middle-weight in the mouth, with grainy, rustic tannin reaching the front teeth. In fact, this definitely has an aged Bordeaux feel to it. Not yet showing much flavor - a bit of an iron note in the finish.

100% Teroldego, from a single vineyard, I believe.

Day 4 - This never really expressed. Probably past its peak.


$35 on release

Santa Barbara Winery, Sangiovese, Stolpman Vyd. 2004

Deep red.

Oak toast/maple, red cherry and earth aromas. Very attractive, deep and integrated.

Round, sweet and simultaneously acid-driven - another wine with nice tension in the mouth. Flavors lean toward confectionary red raspberry and a "mineral" feel from the strong acidity.

Serious New World Sangiovese, apparently not an oxymoron. 14.9% alcohol listed. Very good action.

Day 3 - No change - delicious stuff.


$25? gift

Massena "Howling Dog" Petite Sirah, Barossa Valley 2005

Opaque purple.

Gamey, sweaty, medicinal, salty aromatics - very deep - slightly disgusting. Sweeter black fruit character with air.

Sweet, creamy palate impression, with nice breadth in the mouth. Structure is quite mild, particularly for Petite. Deep fig/blackberry flavor that competes with game/salt/sweat flavors of Brett/old barrels.

This may need some serious aeration. Opened yesterday.

Day 3 - I double-decanted this after tasting it above. Animal character now in the background, with creamy blueberry/blackberry and a hint of citrus on the nose. Similar in the mouth, with an unexpected hint of oxidation to boot. Very round, but finishes short. Not clear that there will be any way to get around the beastiness without killing the wine.


$45

(Clos Marie) Metairies du Clos, VV, Pic St. Loup 2004

Purple/red.

Dried herb (oregano?), earth, suave oak spice - something Burgundian/umami too on the nose - fruit confection/underbrush/savory meat.

Really plush, but not sweet, in the mouth. Grainy tannic chew/flavor concentration start to finish. Another wine that seems to flow on two different tracks - Schildnecht's"interplay" of flavor/structure. Again - many would label this as a wine with a "mineral-laden" finish. Basically meaning this wine needs some time in the bottle to strut.

Very refined, deep wine from the Languedoc.

Day 4 - Much deeper than the Olivette. An integrated whole that is difficult to break into meaningful "pieces" the same way it is difficult to "deconstruct" a great Marcassin PN (at least aromatically). In the mouth oak toast dominates, with a strong tannin/acid synergy crimping the finish.

Talk to Eric at The Wine Consultant outside Sacramento.

$35

Clos Marie, L'Olivette, Pic St. Loup (Languedoc) 2005

Red/purple.

A bit of game/brett initially, with deep red cherry and earth aromas. It is interesting to taste New World and Old World wines simultaneously. The one advantage I consistently see in better Old World stuff is a centered core, a singularity, of fruit purity/concentration. The gamy notes are a bit of a distraction, but maybe only for those anal about "hygiene" (yes, that was supposed to be a laugher).

Round/sweet and yet taut simultaneously. Middle-weight, with a bit of game in the mouth too, but plenty of pure fruit and "mineral" flavors. This is really good.

Day 4 - There's a red licorice aromatic note now, with the gamey nuance sublimated to savory meat. As a whole - this is mouth-watering stew. More roundness in the mouth, with firming acid/minerality hitting later.

For the $$ this is a really ridiculous value.


$20

Mas d'en Compte, Priorat 2004

Purple/red.

Toasty/grilled meat (some really good American?) oak influence on the nose, with a pool of undifferentiated black fruit underneath. Or is it blueberry? Full, deep nose, this is obviously concentrated action.

Sweet/creamy initial textural impression gets nice lift and focus from strongish acidity in the mid-palate. Acidity also drives the moderate tannic chew at the sides of the mouth, which impedes flavor flow in the finish. This just needs some time, as there is a major reservoir of flavor to ultimately put structural elements in their rightful place.


Day 4 - This all hazelnut liqueur on the nose now. Not considerably different in the mouth. Needs some bottle time.


$35

Lafond Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Clone 777, 2005

Deep red.

Suave oak toast and nut aromas, with herbs, black fruit and buttered popcorn underneath.

Quite round in the mouth, with a saline/grainy impression of concentration. This is packed/extracted, but is not at all heavy-handed. Big (for Pinot) tannic backbone, with strong acidity. Loaded - I'd like to see this a few years from now.


$45? gift

Hirtzberger, Riesling, Hochrain, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)

Yellow.

Slightly pungent aromas of spiced apple, lemon/lime zest, earth and a hint of peach.

Spicy/peppery entry similar to Gruner Veltliner, even has a lentil nuance. Intense, spicy grapefruit flavors and off-dry, with acid-driven mineral chew providing a firm backstop. Very long, chewy finish goes on and on.

This rocks.

Day 3 - White grape jelly now shows in the aromatics. Pepper diminished in the mouth, with citric flavor front and center. Finishing chew really takes over the mouth (still).

$50

Saxum, Heart Stone Vyd, Paso Robles 2005

Purple/red.

Suave mixture of oak and raspberry fruit sweetness on the nose.

Very sweet/creamy entry, by now a calling card for Saxum and many producers in the area. Structure is almost entirely driven by acidity, which boosts the mild tannin. This is very tasty, but, still, I see little aromatic or flavor delination/complexity here.

Will this come with cellar time? I'm not betting on it.

Day 2 - Completely confectionary now, with nice acid (some would say mineral) thrust. A thick coating of one thing, nothing else. I still don't get most of these wines (Rocket Block is an exception). But I must be missing something, as both Tanzer and Parker think highly of them.

Day 5 - I've been too tough on this one, which should definitely get extra points for concentration, suave texture and flavor thrust. I'm still skeptical about any real future aromatic or flavor complexity, but I'll probably be proven wrong.

44% Syrah, 33% Grenache, 23% Mourvedre


$40

Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah 2005 (Sonoma Coast)

Saturated purple.

Medicinal (iodine), (oak?) spice, dried fig, clove, slow-roasted meat, menthol and all sorts of other, teaser, "stuff" on the nose.

Black licorice, suave oak toast - whatever - this rocks. I seem to get a bit of heat in the mid-palate, even though this is listed at 14.2% alcohol. Nevertheless, this is packed with grainy flavor concentration, as usual. Menthol flavor shows late. I think we need some air time here.

This is a Pax bottling I'll buy any time.


Day 2 - Deeper on the nose, really huge in the mouth, with chewy tannin that you almost miss. 50% new oak, according to the website.

Day 3 - Deeper, chocolate-infused nose now, with the iodine element in the background. There's a saturation of aromas and flavors that basically mocks the Saxum's sweet/tart simplicity.


$50

Copain "Les Voisins" Syrah 2006 (McDowell Valley)

Purple.

My 10 year-old says Havarti cheese (she's onto something), blueberry cream and spice aromatics.

Round, creamy impression in the mouth, with blueberry flavor dominating. Relatively strong acidity kicks in around mid-palate. Finishes with chewy acid/tannin synergy. Very good density in the mouth.

Tasty New World/Old World hybrid.

$25

Copain 2006 "Tous Ensemble" Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)

Light red.

Earth/nut, spice and light cranberry on the nose.

Bright and lifted in the mouth - cran/cherry and spice - pure and simple. Fairly strong acidity, yet this has nice textural sweetness. Decent length.

Everyday, tasty Pinot. A whopping 13.1% alcohol.


$25?

Havens "Black and Blue" Napa Valley 2002

Saturated purple.

Ground pepper, menthol, meat and black fruit aromas.

Plush, mouth-coating entry with pepper and meat repeating as well as fig/date flavors. A bit dis-jointed in the mid-palate, with tannin taking the upper hand. Cabernet greens make a subtle, yet substantive, appearance.

Solid stuff, but I wonder if it will knit together?

I think the blend is 50% each Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon

Day 5 - Figs, earth and black raspberry aromas. Still mouth-coating and plush, just a bit of heat, and much better flavor flow through the mid-palate. A eucalyptus nuance too. Tannin still fairly strong - I think this needs several more years in the bottle to strut.


$35?

Remizieres, Hermitage 1999

Purple/red.

Great nose of wilted greens, sausage/smoked salmon and integrated oak smoke/spice. Black pepper a late arrival.

Intensely flavored middle-weight, with flavors echoing nose. Structure is (front teeth) stout, but lets flavors ride through without a hiccup.

Day 3 - Nose now dominated by black fruit, earth and a medicinal note. Almost fat in the mouth, with spicy black fruit front and center, supported by sausage, wilted greens and earth.

$50 on release

Clerico, Barolo, Ginestra, 1997

Deep red.

Amaretto, savory meat, earth and deep cherry jam. Not particularly lifted, but not flat either. In fact, this reminds me a bit of successful stuff from the south of France (Clavel's Copa Santa).

Intensely flavored - cherry, embers, spice and a bit of heat. Structure seems primarily acid-driven with finishing tannic thrust. A late note of iron. All structure in the finish, killing flavor.

Day 3 - Here's another wine that has a melted butter/fruit component. In fact, this has a black cherry/raspberry confectionary character on the nose. Really round, packed and seamless, particularly for Barolo, with grainy tannin intruding late.

Interesting contrast to the '96.


$65?

Copain Roussanne James Berry Vyd. 2005

Pale yellow.

Having a hard time with the nose - understated - spiced peach/apple and a light sulfide note.

Round and mouth-filling, without being fat. Really packed with spiced peach/apple flavor, subtle vanilla and, again, a light sulfide, chewy finish which switches to canned peach. Very long - just sticks in the mouth.

At 13.8% alcohol, this is hardly a bruiser. The kind of wine you appreciate more the further you get into the bottle.

Day 2 - More open nose now. Vanilla, custard and ripe peach, like a refreshing dessert. More restrained in the mouth, absolutely delicious action.

$45

Palacios "Corullon" 2004 (Bierzo, Spain)

Purple/red.

Intense, deep aromatics - pepper, earth (potato?), spice, citrus and an oak contribution that is extremely difficult to differentiate from the previous descriptors. Which means this is beautifully integrated stuff. Also obvious from the nose - this is loaded.

Pepper/earth front and center in the mouth, with citrus/spice too. Structure is immediate, driven primarily by acidity which adds impact to moderate tannin. This has real old-vine concentration - no bullshit here - as the flavors ride through serious, but not brutal, structure. And this is a very interesting, and differentiating point - you can't make this kind of flavor intensity in the winery. You either grow it or try to fake it.

Best to let this sit 2-3 years and drink over the ensuing 5. Buy it.

Day 3 - Just a bit more open on the nose and in the mouth. Vibrant citrus/pepper punch to the flavors, with that deep, potato/earth counterpoint. Focused, pure and chewy. Nothing fat here.

Day 6 - Really open now - ground pepper, roasted potatoes and a suggestion of melted butter. Indeed. Citrus in full force in the mouth, still pungent, but this is showing slight oxidation in the finish.


$40

Artadi Vinas de Gain 2003 Rioja

Purple/red.

Integrated, deep nose of brown spices, earth and blackberry.

Sweet, middle-weight, textural impression is immediately buffered by acidity and mild tannin. A bit of citrus is the only addition from the nose. Fresher in the mouth, as a result. Structure ultimately cuts into the mid-palate and kills the finish.

Very solid entry-level wine.

Day 3 - A bit of citrus in the nose now, and a bigger dose in the mouth too. Decent, but not great, complexity.


$25

Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Valmur, 2004

Straw.

Nut paste aromas, with lemon and mineral/steel in the background.

Intense, fresh lemon, mineral and nut/earth flavors. There's a textural sweetness, start to finish, that is a great contrast to the intense, pure, citric/mineral flavors. Long, stony, lemony, chewy finish coats the front teeth.

Killer. This makes you wonder why people are yacking about fat, monolithic Rhone whites. The pendulum swings eternally.
Drink them all.


$45

Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2005

Red/purple.

Interesting aromatics - clay, lightly baked blue and black berries and just a hint of garrigue.
This smells like it has a good bit of Mourvedre.

Great textural sweetness as well as sweet (not to mention pure) fruit character, but very nicely kept in bounds by suave acid/fine tannin synergy. Keeps its plush fruit well into the finish, where the tannin coats the front teeth. Beautifully made, from obviously killer raw material.

Day 4 - Nose basically the same - just deeper bass notes. Ditto in the mouth, but the structure has amplified. Serious front-teeth chew now. It wil be interesting to watch this over many years.


$70

R. Leclerc "Clos Prieur" Gevrey Chambertin 2005

Vibrant red.

Understated nose of underbrush, slow-roasted meat and red fruit.

Vibrant cran/cherry entry supported by strong acidity. Underbrush, cinnamon and meat in the background/finish.

Nice Burgundy.

Day 3 - More open nose - focused on red fruit and spice. Quite round and easy-going, especially compared to the Rossignol.
Not great, but satisfying.


$40

Pax "Moriah" Sonoma County 2005

Red.

Wild nose - stemmy, jalapeno/marijuana notes front and center. Nice earth, spice and red fruit underneath. Reminds me of some Brewer-Clifton Pinots.

Round more than sweet in the mouth (only 14.2% alcohol), with vibrant red cherry/cranberry, spice and stem/cinnamon flavors. Idiosyncratic Grenache-based wine, but I like this. Great, subtle length, as well as stem/acid chew.

Pax taking an outside pitch to right field. Very nice.

Day 3 - Aromatic craziness subdued - more cinnamon and fresh herb now - though there's still a hint of jalapeno. This really smells like a killer Pinot. Even a slow-roasted meat nuance. Very round in the mouth - with a light stem/acid constriction that frames the flavors. Lots of energy too.

This rocks.

75% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 1% Roussanne. For pH freaks, this clocks in at 4.13. For most people, completely out of the park. So where does the vibrant character come from? Great fruit, stems, and simple winemaking.

$50

N. Rossignol, Volnay (Burgundy) 2005

Vibrant red.

Nose of tar/cheese (strange, but accurate), Bordeaux-ish oak toast and black cherry pastry.

Intense, bound up flavors of red cherry, spice and a medicinal nuance. Acid spine throughout, but red fruit flavor rides through it all. Needs several years in the bottle.

Day 5 - Tar and black cherry coulis nose, intense and fresh. Still bound up in the mouth, but the depth of fruit is obvious. Considerable acid constriction in the finish, but subtle finishing red cherry flavor rides through it.



$55

Pelerin, Rosellas's Vyd., Santa Lucia Highlands, Pinot Noir 2005

Light red.

Expressive, very Pinot nose of underbrush, creamy cran/cherry and oak spice. You can smell the roundness here.

Utterly round, covers the whole mouth with vibrant red cherry, herb and spice flavors. Great textural sweetness, you barely notice the framing acidity. Absolutely delicious stuff.


$50

Buller, Fine Muscat (Fortified dessert wine), Victoria NV

Amber.

Brandy, pralines, rose liqueur, brown sugar - whatever - this is killer.

Hugely sweet, viscous entry ... with flavors that echo and amplify the nose. Without any real end point.

What is there to say - this is off the Orgasmatron scale.

This style of dessert wine from Australia has no peers. The Tokays are good, but dessert Muscat rules.

A whopping $14/375ml

Coulon "Boisrenard" Chateauneuf du Pape 1998

Deep red.

Amaretto, earth and black cherry jam nose.

Sweet, broad, packed initial feel in the mouth, then grainy, cheek-coating tannin kicks in. A great contrast to the Pegau, which is aged (primarily?) in large old oak tanks/foudres. Here the small barrel aging adds depth in the mouth, but seemingly at the expense of both complexity and textural "give". The Pegau is clearly more expressive and complex, and likely to stay that way over the long haul.

But this is, still, a deep, rich, "modern" CdP.

Opened yesterday

$40 on release

Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape 1998

Red with rust rim.

Melded nose of meat, dried herbs, red cherry, earth/truffle - savory and deep. A bit of blood/iron too, as usual.

Round, mouth-filling, sweet entry immediately buffered by acid-driven, moderate, tannin. Red cherry jam and garrigue flavors ride through mid-palate easily, then substantial, building structure cuts into flavor flow.

Day 2 - Nose a bit "sweeter", with the dried herb aspect heightened too. Textural sweetness has also expanded in the mouth. Structure now quite fine, and in the background until well into the finish.

This could easily go another 5-10 years, as I don't think it has reached its peak yet.

$35 (in 2001)

Jaume "Clos de Sixte" Lirac 2003

Deep red.

Deep nose of red and black fruit jelly, pepper and clay.

Round and mouth-coating, with spicy red fruit jelly flavor taking over the mouth. Acid-driven, light tannin inches into the picture late. Packed and very tasty. Just lacks any real complexity.

I think the blend here is similar to Chateauneuf (Grenache dominant).


$25

Koehler, Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley 2005

Deep purple/red.

Suave, toasted oak, citrus, menthol/licorice and grilled meat nose. Fresh and lifted.

Sweet initial palate-impression, with moderate, grainy tannin framing flavors through the finish. Nice depth of fruit through the mid-palate.

Day 3 - Nose now more integrated/less precise. The citrus note is still there, and seems to be a calling card of cooler Central Coast sites (or just cooler vintages?). Really plush now, with structure to match. Not a headbanger version - but gets some style points. Very drinkable stuff with good, dead-animal food.


$25

Clos de L'Oratoire des Papes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Red/purple.

Subdued nose shows garrigue, clay and deep red and black fruit.

Round, spicy, garrigue-laden entry that runs the whole table. No let up, start to finish. Very good depth of fruit/spice that is brought into sharper focus by teeth-coating, reasonably finely-grained tannin in the finish. It will be interesting to see how this ages.

Day 3 - More spicy lift on the nose today, even some menthol. Very round, and lively, now, with structure hitting later. This is seriously good action, and likely to drink well for many years.


$45?

Guigal Lieu-Dit St. Joseph Blanc 2005

Deep yellow.

"Thick" nose of honey, licorice and suave oak (I think).

Shows spicy pear, nut liqueur and earth in the mouth. Takes over the mouth, coating every surface with almond/hazelnut flavors on the finish. This stuff doesn't quit, although it seems to show more acid structure than the 2004.

This almost makes me think of red wine - which reminds me - Guigal apparently ferments some of his Condrieu on the skins for a short period. I wonder if he uses a similar approach on this wine.

$35

J.L. Chave Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Sybele"2005

Very pale yellow.

Low-toned nose of citrus and quince(?), moderately intense.

Sweet, slightly thick, textural impression in the mouth, buffered by building, spicy, chew on the sides of the mouth. Fresh apple and pear flavors. Very long, chewy, dry finish.

I assume this is Marsanne.

Day 9 - Believe it or not. Tasted at 60F. Fresh pear/apple succulent and long. This could have been opened today.


$28

Errazuriz Chardonnay "Wild Ferment" Casablanca Valley 2005

Light yellow.

Apple, pear, earth/sulfide and citrus skin on the nose.

Intense, phenolic/sulfide chewy flavors of peach pit and lemon rind. Actually a bit abrasive. Doesn't lack personality though.
I opened this a few hours ago - it showed more textural sweetness then.

Screwcap

Day 3 - This is abrasive aromatically now, too. I think the primary problem is a lack of malolactic to integrate all structural elements. Nevertheless, it will be interesting to see if this knits together with another 2-3 years in the bottle.

$17

Bastide Blanche Cuvee Estagnol 2003 Bandol

Red/purple.

Menthol/licorice/sausage/game/clay/red fruit nose. Slight heat. An exotic fruit aspect too - kiwi?

Fairly open and plush for Bastide, with typical grainy tannin kicking in at mid-palate. Not nearly as dense as the 2001. Here the tannin really overpowers the fruit in the finish. An iron nuance late. Good but not great.

I'd drink this over the next 3-4 years with some lamb cassoulet (talk to John Hall at Canela).


$25

Aphillanthes, Mourvedre, Cotes-du Rhone 2003

Deep red.

Spicy red cherry, savory meat and sexy (oak?) spice nose. There's something Pinot-like here.

Round and mouthfilling, again, very Pinot-like, with fresh red cherry/strawberry fruit flavor. This is really interesting. Grainy, mild tannin keeps everything in check. Quite suave actually, not a characteristic normally associated with Old World Mourvedre. The savory meat nuance pops up in the mouth too.

I know nothing about this bottling, but this producer has made several Cotes-du-Rhones that I loved (1999, 2000 Galets & Trois Cepages).

I remember one of the Perrin brothers (Beaucastel/Tablas Creek) saying years ago that Mourvedre was the Pinot Noir of the south. I assumed he was a lunatic at the time, but I have learned that the variety is capable of great aromatic complexity.


$45

Sokol Blosser "Estate Cuvee" Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2004

Pale red, almost pink.

Decidedly Pinot nose - underbrush, rhubarb, strawberry/cherry/cranberry - vibrant and suave simultanously. A bit of hazelnut too.

Round and mouthfilling, with a sweetness of texture leavened by good, yet unobtrusive acidity (or is it lift from stem inclusion?). You'd have to be unbalanced not to enjoy drinking this. The complexity promised in the nose is mostly delivered
in the mouth. It does seem that stem inclusion is a factor here. Very well-judged.

I just want to keep drinking the stuff. Satisfying on every level.


Gift - $40?

Clavel "Copa Santa" Coteaux du Languedoc 2003

Deep red/purple.

Fresher on the nose than the 2000, as might be expected, although 2003 was hotter than hell. Fruit character that I can't pinpoint - something like raspberry/fig/cherry - integrated and interesting. Earth (clean) here too, with a slightly noticeable oak spice component that is not at all abrasive.

In the mouth, this is more confectionary than the 2000, and again, a bit Aussie-like (Barossa), but here we get some heat in the mouth and more aggressive structure. Still, this is certainly satisfying. Just unlikely to match the 2000.

Also opened yesterday.

$25

Clavel "Copa Santa" Coteaux du Languedoc 2000

Very deep red.

Deep, savory meat, fresh earth, plum/prune and spice nose. Even a hint of nut liqueur (Frangelico?).

Round and mouthfilling, yet manages to retain a taut structural balance in the mouth. Plush, deep flavor of black plum, fig, spice and earth. Nice length. This reminds me a bit of old-vine Aussie Shiraz in the finish. Probably the Fig Newton aspect.

Wonderful wine. Opened yesterday.

Mostly Syrah, with bits of Mourvedre and Grenache.


$20

Torbreck Struie (Shiraz) 2002 Eden & Barossa Valleys

Opaque red/purple.

Salty, sweaty aromas. Not particularly pleasant.

Plush entry, quite densely flavored, with omnipresent, grainy tannin. Briny/animal character in the mouth too, with little (or no) fruit.

I loved this wine on release, as it showed the opulent fruit of Barossa allied with the cooler, lifted (mint) tones of the Eden Valley. Now I get nothing but Brett - a shame. And this isn't the first bottle to show this character.


Day 3 - Same aromatic action. More fruit in the mouth - figs/dates, but still has a salt/animal constriction that kills any real pleasure.


$40

Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2004

Opaque purple.

Fresh, lifted nose of eucalyptus, spice, earth and blackberry cream.

Great breadth in the mouth, plush, with finer tannin than the 2001. Seems almost acid-driven, which buffers the initial textural sweetness. Nice tension.

Looking at these notes, I'm almost certain that the "experts" are correct - the Rossi Vineyard is comprised primarily of Petite Sirah. Which says nothing really, as the vineyard is obviously special, as is Thackrey's winemaking. Both vintages will be around for many years.

Day 3 - Still has great aromatic purity - blackberry/eucalyptus, cream - ridiculously fresh. Suave, yet quite structured, in the mouth. Deep blackberry/eucalyptus/cream character goes on and on. This is killer.

$75

Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd. St. Helena 2001

Opaque purple/red.

Smoke, grilled sausage, oak char nose - quite deep - with black fruit underneath.

Intense, packed middle-weight, with plentiful, grainy, tannins immediately framing blackberry, spice and earth flavors. Just a touch of heat (14.7%).

Day 3 - Now something Priorat-like aromatically. Integrated smoke, meat and deep black, perfumed fruit. Quite pure.
Sweetness of texture, with strong acidity is also reminiscent of Priorat. Huge, centered, structure in a middle-weight frame.
Distinctive, idiosyncratic wine - just like Thackrey.

$75

Gourt de Mautens, Rasteau 2000

Deep red/purple.

Smoke, earth, grilled meat, fig, spice and a bit of alcohol on the nose. Strangely, this reminds me of San Roman Toro (Tempranillo). Obviously oak-influenced, but mouth-watering nonetheless.

Packed and fairly plush in the mouth, with grainy, omnipresent tannin. Again, this reminds me of San Roman, only here there is more volume thanks to the dominant Grenache component. Compared to earlier vintages of Mautens, this is suave and reasonably refined. Deep, chewy finish.

Rasteau is apparently warmer than Chateauneuf, with a large percentage of very old vines.


$35

Les Cailloux Chateauneuf du Pape 2003

Red.

Spicy red fruit jam, earth, roasted meat, soy and light oak spice on the nose. Even a slight suggestion of eucalyptus.

Another '03 Chateauneuf that shows a packed, 3D, fruit jam character. Not particularly complex in the mouth (yet). Chewy, acid-enhanced tannin cuts into the finish.

Opened yesterday. Best over the next 5-6 years.


$30

Saint-Benoit, "Grande Garde" Chateauneuf du Pape 2003

Red, garnet rim.

Baked clay, garrigue and a lifted, floral, red fruit note.

Intense garrigue spice and red fruit flavors, medium to light-bodied. No fat here, but nice textural breadth in the mouth. Acid-driven tannin provides front teeth, finishing, chew.

Good, honest action.

$25

The Standish Shiraz Barossa Valley 2001

Opaque purple/red.

Old-school nose shows no overt sign of new oak. Deep aromas of spicy fig/date, steak and earth.

Deep and packed in the mouth, similar to the Alban, but this shows no extraneous sweetness (Alban listed at 15.9% alcohol, Standish listed at 14.5%). This, though, has a difficult time delivering in the mouth, at least at this point. Grainy tannin, earth and fig/date flavors.

This was also opened yesterday.

If I remember correctly, 2001 was a very hot vintage in South Australia.


$65

Alban "Tithings" Edna Valley 2002

Saturated purple/black.

Extremely deep black olive, spicy fig, earth, blood orange and toasty oak aromas.

Creamy and packed in the mouth, but doesn't have the clarity of flavor, complexity or length of his best stuff. Splitting hairs. This was opened last night, and has really benefited from the air time. Layered, with acidity, ultimately, intruding to kill flavor.

I'm not sure what this is - but it must have a substantial Syrah component.

$50?

Ogier Cote Rotie 2001

Red.

Sumptuous, mouth-watering nose of woodsmoke, sausage, grilled herbs and 5 spice powder. Killer.

Utterly round in the mouth, with no immediately obvious structure, but you don't miss it either. "Internally" structured, as this slowly shows its backbone. Very much a middle-weight, ultimately, with absolutely no excess weight. In the end, this is acid-dominant. Beautifully rendered wine, and a great example of (modern) Cote Rotie. Long, subtle stuff. No need to drink this soon.


$75

Capafons-Osso, Mas de Masos, Priorat 2000

Red/purple.

Deep, vibrant nose that seems to be a calling card for Priorat. Shoe polish, leather, earth, meat and deep black fruit.

Sweet entry that is lightly buffered by acidity and mild tannin that, believe it or not, hit the bottom of the tongue. Really good textural depth/concentration, round and mouth-filling, with mineral thrust in the finish.

This makes me want to re-think everything I thought I "knew" about Priorat. This was incredibly bound up structurally a few years ago. I couldn't believe it would ever "shake the fun stuff", so to speak. But it is indeed shaking booty, maybe other "stuff" too.

$36

Turley, Dragon Vyd. Howell Mtn. Zinfandel 2005

Red.

Spicy, red fruit nose dominated by balsa wood character. Hint of celery, ketchup and alcohol.

Remarkably similar in the mouth. Plush entry, with edgy acidity framing flavors. Ketchup aspect reminds me of some Spanish Garnachas. Intensely flavored, but, ultimately, a bit lean. I'd drain this soon, with some real food (protein and fat, both from an unlucky animal).


$35?

Juan Gil, Monastrell, Jumilla 2005

Deep red/purple.

Earth/loam, blackberry, spice and a hint of cream on the deep, attractive nose.

Creamy, lush entry immediately buffered by acid/tannin synergy that is in keeping with the depth of fruit. This is ridiculously refined and deep for a wine that is so inexpensive. Credit old (paid off/cheap) vineyards, and a hospitable climate. Or just enjoy a stupid value, particularly in view of the weak dollar.

100% Monastrell (Mourvedre)

$15

Mas Romani, La Basseta, Priorat 2004

Deep, pure red.

Pure and vibrant on the nose too. Hint of shoe polish and creamy red cherry.

Really nice breadth in the mouth, atypical for Priorat, particularly one based on Carignan. A pool of red cherry jam that is very much in line with the Pegau '03, although this is not as packed. It is interesting that this is made with the "guidance" of Michel Tardieu of Tardieu-Laurent. Like Mogador, made by a French guy, this wine has a natural feel and textural "give" that is often lacking in Priorat.

50% old Carignan, 40% Grenache, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah


$55

Alto Landon, Manchuela (Spain) 2004

Deep purple/red.

Sexy oak, hint of coconut and creamy nose that reminds me (a bit) of the Marquis-Philips wines from Oz. More restraint here, though, with a black fruit character that is deep, but not confectionary.

Much tighter in the mouth, with fairly strong acidity making an immediate impression, as does a cinnamon (oak) note. In fact, it's hard to find any fruit. The dominant impression is one of acid-driven constriction. We'll see what air time does.

60% Syrah/40% Merlot (?)

$35

Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape 2003

Deep red.

Deep nose that also manages to be pure and nuanced - garrigue, blood, cherry jam, toast (as far as I know, Pegau uses only old oak), chocolate and mint. This continues to change in the glass.

Over-sized in the mouth - huge cherry jam and garrigue entry that is absolutely killer, with structure to boot. Absolutely packed with flavor that shows no extraneous sweetness due to strong acidity and moderate tannin.

Just stupid. This will be mind-altering for another two decades, or more. Jesus.


Day 4 - Moderately intense nose - but it hints at a wine with enormous, reduction sauce-like concentration. Garrigue and cherry jam dominate. Still round, sweet and utterly packed in the mouth. No let up here, very slight heat on the finish. Tannin is reasonably suave, and, interestingly, coats only the front teeth.

I'll repeat myself, this is just stupid. Buy it.

$60 - 80

Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000

Red/purple.

Sausage, earth, blood, fennel, red cherry - this seems like a hybrid - north and south.

Similar in the mouth, with a charry character (not from new oak), grilled herbs, and a cherry liqueur nuance buried deep.
Packed, but hardly typical CdP. Which is interesting - this wine is based on Grenache due to that variety's success in 2000. So, if any vintage of Beaucastel might be considered CdP typical, this is it.

Wild stuff, and will be better with another 5 years in the bottle.


Day 4 - Prunes, earth and dried figs aromatically - similar to Monastrells from Jumilla. Red cherry in the mouth, with leather, spices and earth in the mouth. This hasn't really fattened up with air. But I've yet to see a strong vintage of Beaucastel that hasn't improved dramatically with 10+ years in the bottle.

$50

Clarendon Hills, Roma's, Grenache 2001

Red/purple.

Deep, almost "thick" nose of praline and Brazil nut. A hint of black fruit.

Much more of a middle-weight than it was a few years ago, but this still has a blackberry core of fruit. Hard to believe that a New-World Grenache is in a dumb phase, but I think this is. Concentrated to the hilt, but everything in reserve now. Textural sweetness still evident as is plentiful, but finely-grained, tannin.

I wonder just when this thing will sing? Maybe 4-6 more years?

Day 4 - Nut aromatics now balanced by black raspberry confection. Much sweeter in the mouth too, but not nearly as full as it was a few years ago. Just a bit of heat on the long fruit-filled finish.


$75

Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero 2004

Opaque purple/red.

Packed nose - earth, figs, spice and, quite unusual for RdD, citrus. Great, multi-dimensional nose. Not as suave as Villacreces, but much more complex.

Great concentration in the mouth too. Really packed with grainy black fruit and spice flavors. Oak here is barely noticeable as such. Chewy and long. Loaded, but slightly rustic.

Same old story - textural seamlessness/simplicity vs. complexity/rusticity.


Day 3 - This simply has a great deal more raw material than the Villacreces, which relies on sexy barrels to do the "smoke and mirrors" thing. It is interesting to note the discrepancy in scores from the independent critics :

Josh Raynolds (Tanzer/International Wine Cellar) both wines 90/100

Jay Miller (Parker/Wine Advocate) Villacreces 95/100, Condado 91/100

I'd give Condado at least a 2 point advantage.

$25

Villacreces Ribera del Duero 2004

Deep purple/red.

Remarkably suave, oak-influenced nose (Darnajou?) that reminds me that Sisseck used to/still does work here. Typical clay/earth and baked black fruit/pudding fruit. Low-toned and sumptuous nose.

Round and a bit creamy, but really has an underlying, acid-driven, spine keeping everything in place from the get go. Very even structural impression throughout. This needs time - say 4-5 years - to strut. Excellent winemaking, not to mention raw materials, here.


$45

Prager Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 2004 (Austria)

Light yellow.

Slightly pungent citrus and white grape jelly aromas, with a spicy undercurrent.

Immediately intense in the mouth - grapefruit/lemon zest, rocks with major phenolic/mineral chew coating everything in the mouth. This must have a decent bit of residual sugar, but it gets buried in rocks. With air, citrus goes from zest to flesh in flavor (and back again).

Killer.

$40?

Kellerei Cantina Tramin, Pinot Bianco dell'Alto Adige 2006

Straw.

Ripe, spiced apple and pear nose.

Fullish, even a hint of fruit sweetness in the mouth, with flavors mirroring the nose. Nice acidity keeps things bright, but is unobtrusive. Delicious stuff.

Drink this soon - synthetic cork.

$15

Graham's Vintage Porto 2000

Deep purple/red.

Brandy, damp earth and herb/stem spice aromatics. Pools of black fruit underneath.

Huge, sweet palate impression, not unexpected, with a garrigue/Chateauneuf-ish quality that is, but probably shouldn't be. Most Vintage Port is not de-stemmed. Long, sweet, chewy finish. This is nowhere near prime-time.


$30/375ml ?

Palacios-Remondo Propriedad Rioja 2005

Purple/red.

Suave, toasty oak-influenced nose. Herbs, raspberry and clay/earth underneath.

Creamy entry, with everything in place/harmonious. Beautiful integration of every aspect of the wine. Acidity slightly high, but will age very well. Not at all a powerhouse.

Wonderful example of a "modern" Rioja.


$40

Las Rocas Garnacha, Catalayud (Spain) 2005

Bright red.

Vibrant red fruit (cran/raspberry) and citrus nose, with garrigue and spice underneath.

Flavors follow nose, with nice textural sweetness framed by fairly strong acidity. Flavors flow through unimpeded, however.
Delicious stuff.

Synthetic cork - drink over the next year.


$10

Thackrey Sirius (Petite Sirah) Eaglepoint Ranch 2004

Opaque purple/red.

Lifted, vibrant nose of blackberry, eucalyptus and a hint of pepper.

Almost sweet and confectionary in the mouth (this was opened yesterday), with fresh, pure blackberry and eucalyptus flavors.
A decent bit of tannin here, but remarkably refined, particularly for PS.

$50

Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Origines" 2000

Deep red.

Smoke, seared meat, earth and tomato aromatics.

Round, plush, mouth-filling entry immediately tempered by grainy, both sides of the teeth, tannin. Still a bit bound up, but flavor rides through the mid-palate reasonably well. Not a great deal of fruit to work with here - it will be interesting to see how this responds to air.


$25

Pax Syrah Lauterbach Hill RRV 2005

Deep red/purple.

Menthol, melted licorice, olive and sausage aromatics. "Thick" nose.

Great density in the mouth, grainy tannin, alcohol lowish. Nice breadth of flavor and framing acidity. This needs time to express, but everything seems to be in place for a positive cellar journey. Blackberry finish.


$50

Copain Cailloux & Coccinelle Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2003

Deep, hazy red.

Breakfast sausage (Jimmy Dean?), licorice, menthol, wilted greens on the nose - this should be served with eggs and a tortilla.

Absolutely packed with flavor in the mouth - black raspberry the only addition from what the nose yields. Great sweetness that flies under the radar, the main impression is one of tremendous, grainy, concentration of flavor. In fact, this is very similar to the impression of the Bastide Blanche of a couple of days ago.

This is stupidly good, and so not "New-World". I would love to throw this in a blind tasting of Northern Rhones. The "experts"
would eat major dookie.


$35

Ridge, Lytton Springs 2002

Deep red/purple.

Deep, shoe polish, black raspberry jam, earth and pungent spice aromatics. Once again, an old-vine Zin that reminds me a bit of Priorat, albeit a slightly baked version.

Round, sweet textural entry, with structure going largely unnoticed at the mouth's periphery. Pools of black raspberry jam and spice flavors that sound acidity and moderate tannin keep in check. Even a suggestion of minerality. This is really good action.


$28

Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros, 2002

Pale yellow.

Almond paste, poached apple and a leesy nuance on the nose.

Intense, mineral-laden entry, with pungent lemon, almond and crushed rock flavors. Huge, chewy finish that goes on and on.
Coats every tooth in the mouth.

Jesus - this is killer.

$50

Brewer-Clifton, Pinot Noir, Ashley's, Santa Rita Hills 2005

Light red.

Bright cherry and earth/stem spice aromatics. Slight jalapeno, but nicely integrated.

Round, sweet, mouthfilling entry that nevertheless manages to be framed gently, on all sides, by good acidity and mild tannin. Alcohol is a bit elevated, but doesn't dam up flavor flow. Ethereal.

15.1% listed alcohol

$60

Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage, 1999

Purple/red.

Grilled herbs/wilted greens, smoke, fig jam aromatics.

Wilted greens, constricted, acid-driven structure that will give up more goodies with some air time.

Day 3 - This isn't giving it up, actually. The green note is now cooked and off-putting.


$18

Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 2001 Bandol

Purple/red.

Deep menthol, blackberry, spices, clay/earth and even a suggestion of citrus skin on the nose.

Remarkably plush for such a deep Bandol. Much tighter in the mouth, but absolutely packed with flavor. This has to be one of the greatest values around. Cellar this for several more years

15.5 % alcohol on the label.

Earl Bronzo is a stud.

Day 3 - Deep black olive, prune and clay nose. Packed in the mouth (still) with a grainy concentration that is hard to find these days. Long and chewy. Anyone got a lamb shank?

$25? Just stupid.

Arietta, Variation One, Napa Valley 2001

Purple/red.

Menthol, spicy black fruit and a high-toned whiff of VA.

Aggressive in the mouth, despite an early plush feel. The VA here must be quite high - and very distracting. I'm having a terrible time with these wines. Glad I dropped them.

Day 3 - Showing some textural sweetness now, but VA is still a distraction throughout the experience.


$75

Joan D'Anguera, "El Bugader", Montsant (Spain), 2001

Opaque purple/red.

Considerable oak influence on the nose, which manages to come off as attractive. Smoky, meaty, slightly green Cabernet influence adds to the aromatic complexity. Smells deep.

Relatively plush and quite concentrated in the mouth. Flavors of black fruits, oak spice, rocks and black olive. Tight, linear finish can't kill flavor flow.

From an area adjacent to Priorat, just outside of Barcelona. 70% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Grenache.


$40

Clerico, Barolo, Ginestra, 1996

Red with garnet rim.

Toasted oak/nuts, cherry, a balsamic nuance allied with a meaty/savory character on the nose. Well-integrated.
With air - fresh herbs and other stuff - genie out of the bottle.

Intense red cherry, spices and significant acid-driven structure in the mouth. Linear, as expected, but packed with flavor that is subtle, pure and long. This will be better tomorrow (and the day after).

One of my first "Come to Jesus" wine moments was tasting the 1985 vintage of this wine back in the early 90's.

Day 3 - Pure, cherry jam, charcoal (not from oak) and oak spice. Flavors centered on cherry jam, quite plush for Barolo, with acid-driven tannin impacting only the finish now.

$75

John Duval Wines, Plexus, Barossa Valley, 2004

Hazy purple/red.

Spicy fig, date, oak spices, slightly gamey on the nose. Quite deep and integrated.

Fleshy and giving in the mouth, with nice sweetness. Grainy tannin provides structural support. This had more flavor complexity when opened yesterday. Today the plum and blackberry action is in the background.


49% Shiraz, 27% Grenache, 24% Mourvedre


$40

Contino, Gran Reserva Rioja 1996

Deep red.

Great, melded nose - woodsmoke, grilled nuts, pepper, strawberry/cherry, clay/earth ...

Cherry preserves, pepper, clay/earth in the mouth. Middle-weight impact, with noticeable acid-driven tannin that doesn't derail flavor-flow. Minerally finish lightly coats the teeth, front to back.

This rocks.

Opened yesterday.


$60

Saxum, Heart Stone Vyd, Paso Robles 2004

Deep red/purple.

Nose is tough to pin down - fresh earth, oak nuts, red and black fruit liqueur - smells a bit like port.

Sweet initial impression carries all the way thru to finish without a hiccup. Much more textural interest in the mouth than flavor action. Mineral/stony chew marks the kirsch(?) finish.

I find nothing particularly interesting here. Maybe air time will help.


Day 4 - Roasted oak on the nose and in the mouth, with cran/cherry jam flavor.

60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache


$45

Robert Foley, Petite Sirah, Napa Valley 2004

Opaque purple.

Great, fresh, deep, blue and black fruit, fresh earth nose with sexy oak backing it all up. Aussie-esque.

Incredibly round and mouthfilling for Petite, initially, then tannin kicks in, and they are a bit abrasive at present. Fruit is all about blackberry pie-filling. Long, despite tannin, which is actually well-mannered for a Petite this concentrated.


Day 4 - Absolutely black. Flamboyant nose - coconut, oak spice, pepper, fresh earth and blackberry coulis.
Fat in the mouth now, at least initially. Then slightly aggressive tannin kicks in, as does a bit of heat. A wild thing.

14.5% alcohol on label.

$75

Brewer-Clifton, Chardonnay, Seasmoke, Santa Rita Hills 2005

Very pale yelow.

Subtle, refined nose of lightly baked apple, light sulfides, mineral, pear skin and a lifted note that reminds me of high-class German Riesling. This keeps changing in the glass. Lemon, fresh herbs and face powder now.

Middle-weight entry, then a surge of textural sweetness and a bit of alcohol that blurs mid-palate a bit. But this doesn't actually seem hot in the mouth. Mineral chew throughout, all still refined and fairly tightly knit.

I have no idea where this is headed. 16.4% alcohol barely shows, but I wonder if the aromatic complexity will ever migrate into the mouth.


$57

Chateau de Fonsalette, Cotes-du-Rhone, Syrah 1993

Deep red, rust rim.

Earth, smoke, grilled herbs (was wilted greens when opened 2 hours ago), candied cherry/black fruit and brick aromas. Smells a bit like old Bordeaux, but has many other things going on too. Getting cinnamon now ...

Plush entry, then grainy, slightly coarse tannin makes an appearance. Wilted greens, bacon and a blood/iron note. Still chewy, hitting the front teeth.

1993 was a terrible vintage in the Rhone - never know it from this (my last) bottle. Stupidly good.

$30?

Sea Smoke, Pinot Noir, "Southing", Santa Rita Hills 2005

Bright red.

Bright red cherry/cranberry, floral, citrus, meal and suave oak spice aromas.

Intense, spicy red fruit entry - very much a racy middle-weight. Shows a touch of heat (14.7%). Acidity keeps flavors under wraps right now, but I'm sure this will expand in the mouth with cellar time. Very classy, perfumed stuff.

Day 4 - Additional fruit depth today, along with a suggestion of strawberry coulis. Alcohol still intrudes on the back end.
I'd guess this will integrate with another 3-5 years in the bottle.



$65

Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2004

Light yellow.

Hints of pear, apple and meal on the nose.

Deep, sweet textural impression that is buffered simultaneously by mineral/acid chew.Hard to figure out what the flavors are - straw, smoky, unripe pear? The main focus is the textural impression of glycerin and acid/rock chew that doesn't seem to end.

This must be all, or mostly, Marsanne.

$27

Vinos Sin Ley, G-5 Garnacha, Puerta Bonita 2005 (Vinos de Madrid)

Deep red.

Reticent nose of raspberry/cherry liqueur and a loam/soil character.

Sweet textural impression, with raspberry/cherry front and center allied with a minerally structure that reminds me of stuff from Templeton Gap/Westside Paso Robles. No real complexity here, but it's very tasty, with very good length of flavor.

Synthetic cork (2-3 year death sentence).

$15

Tardieu-Laurent, Rasteau, V.V., 2000

Purple/red.

Tarry oak spices, cola, black raspberry, garrigue and slightly medicinal aromas.

Deep and plush, initially, in the mouth. Broad and deeply flavored, with major structure (teeth-coating tannin) arriving late.

Not sure where this is headed - more giving fruit a couple of years ago?

$30

Noellat, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru, "Les Beaux Monts" 1999

Red.

Nuts, grilled herbs and a hint of citrus on the nose.

Vibrant, lifted citrus blossom/zest in the mouth. Light bodied, but loaded. Slight note of iron. Acid-driven structure hits sides of the teeth. This was actually opened yesterday - seems far fresher today.

A beauty.

$40

Feudi di San Gregorio, Piano di Monte Vergine, Taurasi 1999

Opaque purple/red.

Charry, embers, sawn redwood nose. I don't think this is entirely from new oak. Idiosyncratic, but very deep.

Earthy, spicy, woodfire character repeats, front and center, in the mouth. Has great breadth and flavor impact. There's a primal black fruit aspect that I can't come close to identifying. Long, chewy finish. Tannin has an edgy quality that will be off-putting to many in this day and age.

Generally speaking, this is a wake-up call to New World, easy drinking folks. They will want to hate this, but there is simply too much going on not to love the stuff.

All Aglianico, a variety to be reckoned with.

$60

Tenuta di Trinoro, "Cupole", Rosso Toscana, 1996

Deep red, evolved rim.

Great Bordeaux-ish nose - toast, herbs, hot bricks, graphite, black currant ... Doesn't smell like a second wine.

Medium-bodied, light touch. No way I'd think this was from Italy, except, possibly, the acidity. This is my last bottle. Another a year or so ago, was every bit as good. This is why people love Bordeaux, and well-done geographical extensions of it.


$25

Lesec, "Kristial", Chateauneuf du Pape, 2001

Light red.

Nuts, wilted greens, touch of oak spice(?).

Round and sweet (texture) in the mouth with nut character repeating. Red cherry liqueur, alcohol showing a bit. Intense, but light-handed. Shows the (front teeth) grip provided by stem inclusion. This needs some time to strut.



$28

Conterno-Fantino, "Sori Ginestra", Barolo, 1995

Evolved red.

Killer nose - to the extent that I can't really pin it down. Ethereal spices, cherry jam/liqueur, yet fresh ... wow.

Round and mouth-filling in a way I'm not used to seeing from Barolo or Barbaresco. Which is not to say that it lacks structure.
Cherry preserves and spice in the mouth, with acid-driven tannin constricting the sides of the mouth. There must be some sort of harmonic convergence going on tonight. Actually light-bodied, but intensely flavored. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume".

Jesus, this is good.


$45?

Bouchard, Volnay Caillerets, "Ancienne Cuvee Carnot", 2002

Light red.

Suave, attractive nose - smoke, nuts, iron/blood nuance, ...? No real sign of fruit, though.

Light-bodied in the mouth, orange zest flavor dominating. Very lively, not complex.
Good length.

$30

Luna, Pinot Grigio, Napa County, Barrel-Fermented, 2005

Pale yellow.

Straw/grain, white grape jelly, vague citrus and a hint of oak spice on the nose.

Nice breadth of flavor in the mouth, with a textural sweetness that probably includes some RS. Not at a bit flabby/cloying, though, thanks to cleansing acidity. Actually quite powerful stuff, but deftly handled.


$18

Pintia, Toro (Spain), 2003

Deep purple/red.

Deeper nose than the Pesquera, but also shows more meat, earth and oak aromas than fruit.

Deep and a bit confectionary in the mouth. This has a blackberry syrup character, similar to the Chryseia blogged earlier. Tannin hits late here too. This really takes over the mouth, as much as any Old World wine can. Ultimately a bit one-dimensional, though. And I'm not sure any significant complexity will emerge with time.


$60

Pesquera, Ribera del Duero, 2003

Deep red.

Earth/clay/oak spice aromas with a medicinal/meat nuance.

Broad initial palate-impression, with firm, but reasonably fine, chewy tannin hitting late. Mid-palate is quite plush for a Pesquera. Little obvious fruit character, but this is definitely deep. Needs a couple more years in the bottle.

$28

Prats & Symington, "Chryseia", Douro (Portugal), 2004

Deep purple/red.

Clay/earth, deep, fresh, spicy black fruits and a note of Semolina pasta on the nose.

Very intense blackberry syrup and nut paste entry, with fine, slightly edgy tannin hitting immediately. Still, this has a great textural fullness that balances tannin. Not wildly complex today, but this will add nuance with cellar time. Blackberry finish just keeps going.

This is loaded. Very sophisticated winemaking, dynamite raw materials.

Day 4 - This has lost a bit of life, but absolutely fat/oozing/loaded with blackberry/licorice flavor. Huge length.


$60

Copain "Catie's Corner" Viognier RRV 2005

Light yellow.

Unsalted cashew and fresh herb nose. Can see a glimpse of exotic fruit ..

Sweet, broad, mouth-filling. Exotic fruit (mango/peach) is more restrained than the Whetstone, as is mineral chew. No sulfide or new oak character obvious here. Made for immediate pleasure, it would seem.

Interesting contrast in style. Both are wonderful.

14% alcohol listed.


$25

Whetstone "Catie's Corner" Viognier, RRV 2005

Light yellow.

Mango and peach nose shows some new oak influence and a slight sulfide character.

Plush/sweet palate impression will leave some thinking RS (?), but acidity and mineral/sulfide chew in the finish cuts that thought process short. Long finishing flavor of mango/mineral chew. Seems like a hybrid - Viognier fruit meets Burgundian-styled Chardonnay. This seems to get better, and bigger, with air.

14.6% alcohol listed.


$30? (brought by a friend)

Palacios "Petalos" 2003 (Bierzo, Spain)

Deep red.

Back to the Old World. Nose of wilted spinach, sausage and citrus/pepper. Reminds me (again) of Tardieu-Laurent Cornas.
Smells more like food than fruit.

Citrus dominates in the mouth here, too. Earth and oak spice add interest. Powerful and, again, very fresh (despite the vintage). Acid/tannin chew coats the front teeth. I wouldn't be surprised if this improved for another 2-3 years in bottle.


$16

Camelback, Rockbank Vyd., Shiraz, Sunbury (Australia) 2003

Opaque purple/red.

Lifted, spiced fig, orange peel, oak spice nose.

Orange peel character dominates flavors, very fresh and almost floral. This also manages a good deal of palate sweetness that balances the vibrant citrus character. This is really good - powerful and fresh.

I'm sure Sunbury is a cooler area.


$18

d'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz 2001

Opaque red.

Nose dominated by earth/spice/oak nut character. Smells deep.

Reasonably broad in the mouth with a saline note. Obviously extremely concentrated, tannin is grainy, but largely unobtrusive. Bound up still in the mid-palate and finish.

This was brutal a few years ago. I'm sure this will improve in the bottle for many years, but I still wonder what pleasure it will give.


$50

Mogador 1999 Priorat (Spain)

Deep red.

Nose is a bit baked - clay/earth and spice.

Deep and linear simultaneously - considerable textural plushness for Priorat welded to structural balls of steel. Flavors are indistinct - black fruit and spice - just loads of them. Black olive makes an appearance too.

Another wine that needs air.

Unfortunately, Barbier used un-coated corks until 2000, which means seepage up the cork is a common problem with earlier vintages. Are they as fresh as they might have been? I doubt it.

Day 2 - Quite plush today, with structure arriving later, with less force. I love the textural "give" that Mogador seems to have in relation to almost every other Priorat I've tasted. Tannin still hits the front teeth, though.


$60

Clarendon Hills, Blewitt Springs Vineyard, Grenache, 2001 (Clarendon, Australia)

Light red.

Red fruit, herbs and a saline note on the nose. Not as explosive as it was a few years ago. May simply need air.

Huge, mouth-filling, sweet, textural impression in the mouth. Acid and light tannin provide a good, but unobtrusive, backstop. Long finishing flavor of strawbery preserves and light spice and saline character.

It will be interesting to watch this air over the next few days.


Day 2 - Strawberry preserves, toasted nut, sea salt on the nose. Still packs a wallop in the mouth, but saline-enhanced structure keeps a tighter rein on flavor. It would be very easy to call this "over the top". It isn't. Very long finish and tactile impression.


$45

Ciacci Piccolomini "Ateo" IGT Tuscany 1999

Red.

Charcoal, gravy, cherry/strawberry jam, oak spice nose.

Intense, linear flavors very much in keeping with its Italian origin. Acid-driven structure apparent throughout, binding the front teeth, but nice flavor flow, with an iron note hitting late and going long.


Sangiovese and Cabernet (I think - Ateo means atheist)


$25 - great value here. The 2004 version should be killer.

Coulon "Boisrenard" Chateauneuf du Pape 1998

Red, evolved rim.

Smoky, savory meat nose. Red cherry and garrigue underneath. Wonderfully integrated. Stuff keeps popping up - black pepper, cinnamon ..

Round, mouth-filling entry, relatively light structure hitting the side teeth. Meaty character repeats, but not yet showing much palate complexity. Needs air.


Aged in small barrels for 12 months, racked every quarter - according to the back label.

Day 4 - Cherry jam, garrigue and charcoal in the mouth - if it weren't for the plush mouthfeel, I'd be thinking modern Barolo/Barbaresco.


$50?

La Jota, Cabernet Franc, Howell Mountain 1997

Deep red.

Fresh earth and herb nose with a bit of oak toast.

Broad, fleshy, sumptuous in the mouth. Herbs, toast and spicy black fruit flavors. Becomes a bit constricted by acid-driven tannin in the finish, but the flavors ride through fairly well. This will probably be even better tomorrow.


Day 4 - Fully fleshed out now, and, amazingly, not oxidized at all. Still has backbone too.

Interestingly, Michael Havens, a micro-ox expert, says Cabernet Franc can consume and benefit from a massive amount of oxygen.

$40?

La Jota, Petite Sirah, Howell Mountain 1993

Deep red, some rim evolution.

Suave oak spice, earth/clay, blackberry underneath.

Really nice, fleshy, mouthfeel. Earth character repeats in the mouth, with blackberry hitting late. Finishes slightly chewy. This is a very balanced, eminently drinkable version of Petite. I'd guess it was a Spanish Tempranillo.

14.1% alcohol listed on label.


$18 on release.

Lopez Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Reserva Rioja 1996

Red with rust rim.

Attractive nose - lightly grilled meat, toasted nuts, orange peel and a floral note.

Light to medium-bodied, with outsized flavors of red cherry, iron, earth/clay. Acid certainly drives the structure. Subtle length of flavor. Oak has made a generous contribution here, but is well-integrated/not obvious.


Just gets more interesting as it airs. This is why old-style Rioja still has a fan club.


$33

Blackbilly, Pinot Gris, Fleurieu (Australia) 2006

Platinum.

Lemon/grapefruit zest, talc and a light nut character on the nose.

Lemon/lime zest, with a sweeter flesh flavor from both also. Talc/face powder shows up in the mouth too. Racy and tart/minerally chew reaches the front teeth. Textural sweetness (RS?) balanced nicely by acidity.

Sea-foodies will love this.


$15

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 1999

Deep red, some rim evolution.

Dried herb/garrigue, charcoal, black fruit underneath. This was opened yesterday, and showed a strong blood/iron (brett) aromatic character which is basically gone. Almost floral now.

Nice creamy entry, particularly for Gigondas, with grainy tannin taking a backseat. Spicy black fruit, with an iron nuance. Herb/garrigue flares up too. Very good middle-palate flesh and flavor follow-through.

Good action.

$25

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough (NZ) 2006

Platinum.

Pungent, lifted, green, grapefruit zest aromatics. New Zealand SB poster child nose. Not at all a bad thing.

Full and fresh in the mouth. Maybe some kiwi action in the mouth, really delicious. RS? - who cares? Great balance.
AZ should end up being the biggest importer of NZ SB on the planet, given the climate in the larger metro areas.

Stupidly refreshing/stupid value.

$15?

Mitolo "Savitar" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2003

Opaque purple/red.

Smoke and sulfide skunky nose, deep, far more attractive than it sounds. Black raspberry now noticeable (after first sip).

Creamy, plush, structured entry, as odd as that sounds. Simultaneous impressions that are, nevertheless, discrete. Great power here, but wears it gracefully. A slight saline note with air.

Day 3 - Smoky, meaty thing now. Saline nuance still there. Smells loaded. Packed in the mouth, grainy tannin omnipresent, with a textural sweetness beneath it. This will be around for many years.


$50

Carlisle Russian River Valley Zinfandel Carlisle Vyd. 2002

Deep red.

Lifted, crushed red and black raspberry, earth and spice nose. Fresh, great nose.

Sweet, creamy entry, raspberry repeats in the mouth. Great depth of fruit, seamless and spunky throughout. Acid-driven structure frames flavors without intruding. Just lacks significant complexity ...

Need to latch onto a few bottles of Two Acres and Three Birds.

Day 3 - A bit more integrated in all respects, but also a bit less lively. Drink it.


$35

Shirvington Shiraz McLaren Vale 2002

Opaque black/purple.

Lifted pine/juniper forest, clove, chocolate, cinnamon aromatics. No sign of heat.

Creamy/confectionary in the mouth - impossibly so. But this has an edge of acidity and fine tannin that quietly frames flavors of black raspberry jam, juniper and spice. Again, 16% alcohol is barely noticed (tasted at 63F). Black raspberry finish doesn't end. Not wildly complex, but this has a fineness that many Euro-sluts will miss.

This seems to be getting better (more refined) with bottle age.

Day 3 - Still laying down flavor in a ridiculous fashion. Not an everyday wine, but we all need something like this every month or so. Huge bonefest.


$60

Pax Alder Springs Vyd. Syrah 2003 (Mendocino County)

Opaque purple/red.

Integrated nose of (oak?) spice, menthol, licorice, black raspberry and citrus/pepper.

Deep in the mouth, plush and seemingly low in acidity, but has a lifted character most likely from stem inclusion. Grainy tannin makes its presence known, but does not impede (mainly menthol and licorice) flavor flow. Alcohol is barely noticed - 16.3% listed on label.


$50

Dow's 1994 Vintage Porto

Deep red.

Brandy/Frangelico dominant nose, pudding fruit underneath.

Huge palate impression that is not crazy sweet. Alcohol reasonably integrated. Deep, but not showing its full hand yet. All nut liqueur today.


Wet week here, coolish and humid. So it was time for Porto - sneak preview to Fall/Winter.

Day 3 - This really hasn't changed - I'm thinking this is an off bottle. Closer to Tawny in style. Other bottles have been mind-bendingly complex.


$45? (375mL)

Domaine de la Janasse "Chaupin" Chateauneuf du Pape 2001

Deep red.

Another nicely integrated nose - though this is tilted more in the oak spice direction. Nice pool of black raspberry fruit, with a touch of Amarone-like truffle/earth.

Really deeply-fruited in the mouth. Cherry/raspberry jam and earth that again resembles new-wave Amarone. Broad and mouth-coating. Almost miss the substantial cheek/front teeth chewy structure. This will improve will several more years also.

Had an oxidized sample of this at HdR in May. Cork blows.

$70

Domaine du Caillou "Quartz" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Red.

Multi-dimensional, integrated nose - roasted meat, toast, cherry jam, creme caramel. Things keep coming out of the woodwork.

Round, seamless entry has a textural sweetness too. Quite structured in the middle-palate, with acid/tannin synergy really clamping down, flavor in the background. But this obviously has the concentration to age for several more years.

Denis Vacheron was a hell of a winemaker. Died in a car wreck at 35.

Day 3 - Hasn't changed much - plush, almost the exact impression of having cherry jam in your mouth (with the other stuff floating around). Still acid-driven and tight. I wonder when this will be at its peak?


$60

Te Kairanga "Runholder" Pinot Noir Martinborough (NZ) 2005

Deep red.

Vibrant cracked pepper/juniper nose, earth/meat underneath. I'd guess this was cool climate Shiraz.

Intense, but very light impression in the mouth, alcohol obviously low (12.5% listed). Acid-driven flavors (mirroring nose) ride through mid-palate nicely. A bit of chew, but finely rendered, pure wine. This has a great deal more stuffing and flavor than the 2004 blogged earlier. Citrus zest character emerges with time in the glass, as does a finishing note of iron.

Screwcap - this will be interesting to come back to in a year or two.

Day 3 - Nose has fleshed out quite a bit. Deep now. Mouth is still linear, intense. This is not likely to fatten up with cellaring, but it will be really interesting to watch aromatic and flavor complexity expand with bottle age.

$25

Numanthia - Termes 2004 Toro

Deep purple/red.

Baked, clay/earth, black raspberry jam nose.

Intense and concentrated in the mouth, with the spotlight on pure, black raspberry coulis flavor. Huge tannic structure does not kill mid-palate flavor.

It would be interesting to do a vertical blind tasting of Numanthia and Termes.

Day 2 - Even more filled in on the middle-palate, borderline creamy black fruit. The baked character now showing in the mouth. Tannin takes over a bit later tonight.

Great value.

$25

Lesec "Chasse-Temps" Chateauneuf du Pape 2004

Light red.

Spicy red fruit/garrigue nose, moderate intensity, fresh.

Round, spicy, acid-driven entry, with garrigue front and center and cranberry/red cherry in background. Acid drives slightly aggressive (stem?) tannin to the sides of the mouth. Not brutal, however, with quite lifted/fresh/pungent flavor. Light to medium impact, but lots of flavor interest. Needs a few years.

Day 2 - Even fresher today, pungent red fruit and resinous herbs in the mouth. Chewy, no weight. Think Burgundy baby.
Fun stuff.

$26

Artadi Vinas de Gain 2003 Rioja

Deep purple/red.

Lifted citrus zest, clay/earth nose.

Citrus/pepper flavors - this reminds me (strangely) of Gruner Veltliner. Tightly knit.

Day 2 - Citrus now folded into earth character, more seamless nose. Interestingly, the GV comparison still holds in the mouth. Acid-driven tannin clamps down on the front teeth.

I believe this is 100% Tempranillo, and is a great contrast in style/region to the Termes.

$25

Pelerin Monterey Syrah 2005

Deep purple/red.

Vibrant, multi-dimensional nose of suave oak spice, citrus blossom, menthol and a meaty nuance.

Pungent citrus peel flavors, acid-driven, with little oak showing. Green olive too. Definitely middle-weight, but has nice textural sweetness. Quite intensely flavored, long and chewy. Very French in inspiration, even has a cheese note that reminds me of Copain's Madder Lake Syrah.

This is really good. Never heard of these guys, will start looking for more.

pelerinwines.com

$25? (gift)

Chateau Pavie St. Emilion 2003

Deep purple/red.

Oak spice/char, dried fig, grilled meat. A glimpse of raspberry.

Saturated, middle-weight mouthfeel - grainy tannin suffuses palate. Extremely concentrated black fruit character that has a flatness that reminds me of 2003 Northern Rhones.

This is interesting. Crazy hot, dry year in many parts of France. How far can you push the envelope without the benefit of irrigation? This is a wildly divisive wine in a wildly divisive vintage. Based on the tannin/fruit character here, I doubt this will ever sing. But Parker has far more tasting experience than I do ....

Day 2 - Ditto. Huge structure and concentration, but seems to have no life/lift. Time will tell.

Day 4 - Maybe slightly fresher in the mouth. End of the bottle.

$130 future, God only knows what this is now - $300?

Guigal Vignes de l'Hospice St. Joseph Rouge 2001

Deep, saturated red.

Smoked meat/sausage/wilted greens - crazy food nose. Reminds me of Caldo Verde soup from Portugal. Red raspberry underneath.

Mouth is immediately scoured by acidity and possibly stem tannin - no way is this going to be generous. Intensely flavored, with green character dominating. A citrus character emerging with time in the glass. This is changing constantly - will check back in tomorrow.

Day 2 - No real change. This needs several more years in bottle to unwind a bit.


$70?

Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 2 Yarra Valley 2003

Deepish red with some rim evolution.

Nose quite muted, some raspberry confection, maybe some bacon and earth.

Fuller in the mouth, with raspberry coulis, spice and a hint of peach. Very much a middle-weight, acid-driven, with subtle length of flavor. Completely underwhelming if you're not paying attention - which is a fascinating point. Robert Parker rated this 93 or 94/100 - so much for the guy only liking huge, sweet fruit bombs.

Shiraz and Viognier.

Day 2 - Now see some toasted nut and earth (loam) aromas - raspberry coulis obvious in nose too. Generous, round entry, but subdued. Nice pool of raspberry fruit that again shows a hint of peach. Quite interesting - there is considerable flavor interest here, but it plays softly (think Cowboy Junkies' "Trinity Session"). I'm sure I would under-estimate this wine in a blind tasting.

$50

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc (Steen) Stellenbosch 2006

Platinum.

Lemon/lime flesh, vibrant, slight herb and toasted nut aromas. Reminds me of Aussie Riesling.

Vibrant in the mouth too, with a fruit sweetness that may be a result of well-judged RS. Acidity keeps everything in bounds effortlessly, even a bit of mineral action. This is a wonderful wine - flavors remind me a bit of (drier) Austrian whites.


Great summer wine, and stupidly cheap.

$12

Mogador 2001 Priorat (Spain)

Totally saturated purple/red.

Nose of high-quality oak, both European and American (I think). Shoe polish, earth and extremely intense, almost candied, black fruit lurking underneath. The fruit aspect reminds me of an incredibly ripe Barbera from Rivetti or Chionetti's Dolcetto.

Immediately intense in the mouth. Absolutely packed with acid/tannin structure hitting the front teeth and plush, slightly sweet, Grenache(?)-dominant fruit filling the mouth simultaneously. No sense of thickness, though, quite light in its overall mouthfeel.

This is nowhere close to prime-time drinking.

Day 3 - Nose is even more savory. Hasn't changed much in the mouth. Great balance here, not at all a huge wine.


$70

Bussola "BG" Amarone 2000

Deep, saturated red.

Integrated, great nose of earth/truffle (the Amarone thing), smoky oak, plum/raspberry jam and chocolate.

A bit of heat in the mouth, but very good breadth of flavor, deep and rich. A note of celery seed is the only departure from the nose. Nice, but not great length. Very satisfying, however.

Bussola's 2nd tier Amarone.

$45

Beckman Grenache Purisima Vyd. 2003 (Santa Ynez Valley)

Deep red/purple.

Uber-ripe strawberry/red raspberry coulis of a nose.

Confectionary flavors too, quite pure and absolutely delicious. No complexity here, but the deep strawberry/raspberry sorbet flavors are hypnotic. Broad, fleshy ... You get the picture. But the acidity does cut through any extravagance - providing a firm backstop (and coating the front teeth)..

Back label says 1 ton/acre yield. Wouldn't doubt it. 25% new French, 75% one-year old French, 16 months in barrel.

$30?

Marcassin Marcassin Vyd Chardonnay 2001 (Sonoma Coast)

Straw/yellow, slight haze.

More pronounced sulfide/truffle, deeper, with caramel in background. Vibrant and earth-toned - how?

Great textural sweetness in the mouth as well as density of flavor. Absolutely packed and chewy, but you have a hard time seeing the mineral/tannic chew through the ripe pear and lemon flavors. Wow. Fresh mint kicks in on the absurdly long, caramel finish.

So much for my generalizations about the 3 Sisters vs. Marcassin Vyd bottlings.


Day 3 - Killer, end of the bottle. Sweetness of fruit and caramel battling mineral/phenolic chew to a wonderful standoff.


$100

Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2001

Straw/yellow, slight haze.

Typical sulfide/truffle, lemon zest and caramel with poached pear, sea salt and a carnal/meat nuance.

Packed in the mouth - really stuffed with creme caramel, mineral action. Salty character repeats in finish - fruit gets lost, at least for now. Very long, chewy, subtle finish.

Day 3 - End of the line. Nose now in harmony, all of the above. Lemon now counted among the flavors here, salty character still there, cutting into the sweet caramel character. A wild thing, and worth the ride.


$75

Marcassin "Upper Barn" Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2000

Slightly hazy, light yellow.

Subdued aromatically. Lemon, truffle/sulfide, and mint.

Quite structured for this bottling, with strong acidity combining with sulfide cut. I would think this is from the Marcassin Vineyard. Nice sweetness and flavor depth push back. Long, subtle finish of sulfide, creme caramel and lemon. An idiosyncratic iron nuance kicks in late.

I was worried that this might be past its prime, but I'm not sure its even reached its peak.

Day 4 - Onions now - sulfide/mercaptan character taking over. Iron note still kicks in late. I'd still sit on this for another year or two.


$75

Kay Brothers "Hillside" Shiraz McLaren Vale 2001

Deep red/purple.

Tar, savory meat, licorice and spice nose. Huge American oak influence, which I generally hate, but this works.

Slight sweetness in the mouth buffered immediately by grainy tannin, but impressive fruit fat keeps pumping flavor through it all. More impressive, though, than pleasurable/integrated. I wonder how this can improve in the bottle?


$30

Three Hills Shiraz Margaret River 2002 (West Coast Australia)

Deep purple/red.

Deep earth/clay, juniper, cola and meat aromatics. Obviously riper than the 2000.

Deeper in the mouth too, but still has an acid-driven, middle-weight feel. Less lift than the 2000, but more depth.

Thought I liked the 2002 better, but I'm not so sure tasting them side by side.


Day 3 - There's a beet/earth character now.

$40

Three Hills Shiraz Margaret River 2000 (West Coast Australia)

Deep red/purple.

Cracked pepper, juniper, slightly meaty nose.

Medium-weight impression in the mouth, with lively flavors that mirror the nose. Acid-driven tannin coats the front teeth. Not a fleshy wine, but is quite intensely flavored. Long juniper/pepper finish.


Day 3 - Now showing the citrus (orange) character that I usually notice whenever I find a pepper component in a red wine. This is clearly superior to the 2002. Brighter, longer, more interesting.


$30

Navarro Pinot Gris Mendocino Cty. 2004

Pale yellow/copper (skin contact?).

Fresh, cinnamon dusted apple. Also shows a bit of baked apple.

Vibrant apple and mineral character, with spice in background. Mineral chew reaches front teeth. Very good depth of fruit here, but definitely structured, fine and refreshing.

This is really tasty.


$20? (gift)

Copain "Arrowhead Mountain" Sonoma Valley Zinfandel 2004

Red.

Earth/underbrush, celery seed, root veg nose. Far better than it sounds. Reminds me a bit of the Gigondas tasted recently.

More Pinot-like in the mouth, very light touch, but quite intensely flavored. Red fruit with acid supporting unobtrusively. Almost sweet in the mouth but acid and light tannin (reaching front teeth) keep things in check, taut. Remarkable flavor length for a New World wine that is so light.

Senor Guthrie is good. 14.5% on the label.

$35?

FX Pichler Loibner Berg Riesling Smaragd 2002

Straw yellow.

White grape jelly, lemon/lime, with a suggestion of sweetness on the nose.

Deep and plush in the mouth, with ripe pear, lemon/lime citricity, and a mineral/stone chewiness that keeps (seemingly moderate) residual sugar in check. Very long, incessantly chewy finish.

Day 2 - As good as this is, there's a thrill factor missing here. Maybe I'm just used to FX Gruner Veltliner.

Day 5 - End of the bottle. Funny, thought this was toast, but poured some anyway. Still consistent with Day 1, but rules the whole mouth with citrus zest, poached and ripe pear, mineral chew and RS combining in a (great) crazy finish. So much for a lack of "thrill".


$60

Allegrini Amarone 1999

Deep red.

Deep nose showing more oak than the '98, but also purer, with truffle/chocolate/spice as nuances.

Very intense entry, flavors are more suave than the '98, but the alcohol seems more abrasive. Front teeth-coating structure.
Seems to lack some Amarone flair/earth. I've had a hard time with this stuff (3rd bottle over 2 year span).

It was the '96 and '97 bottlings that made me freak out. I'll have to dig out a '97 ...


Day 4 - Nose hasn't changed much, though you really need to look around to find Amarone truffle action. Sweeter entry than the '98, but not as broad in the mouth. Acidity seems higher, though tannin is finer. Overall impression is of greater structure and less "give" than the '98. Not as integrated as the '98.


$50

Allegrini Amarone 1998

Deep red.

Deep truffle, wife says nail polish, I'd say a bit of shoe polish. Then chocolate and plum/raspberry jam on the nose.

High-octane, spicy entry, plush and round. Slightly spiky in mid-palate, with dark cherry flavor bumping through to the chewy, slightly dis-jointed finish. Probably needs some air.

Day 4 - Nice, deep integrated nose. Very round, completely mouth-filling. Cherry/plum jam and truffle flavors are more successful riding through middle-palate. But still a bit abrasive with alcohol. Fine tannic structure coats the front teeth. This will be around for many more years.


$50

Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2003

Deep purple/red.

Spice and clay, with candied blackberry aromas. Nice depth.

Deep and plush (for Barbera) with insistent acidity making its presence known. Nice flavor follow through to finish, with a nut character nuance becoming more prominent.

Not incredible, but very successful and tasty.


$25

Numanthia Toro (Spain) 2004

Saturated purple/red.

In complete contrast to earlier vintages ('98/'99), very sophisticated, pure nose of high-quality oak with deep blackberry jam and clay/earth tucked under.

Quite packed in the mouth, with a confectionary element confronted by a massive wall of grainy tannin that nevertheless comes off as finely rendered. More importantly, flavors ride through this structure as if they are on two different tracks. I have little doubt this will age extremely well.

Another example of a producer with incredibly intense raw materials backing off on extraction (even though this is still wildly structured). My guess is better de-stemmer (lots of whole berries) and lower fermentation temps. Better (finer) barrels too.
Change started in 2000.

Day 2 - The visual clarity and relative fineness of the wines (since 2000) also makes me wonder about (probably light) filtration. This would be another tool to add finesse to wildly concentrated fruit. Forget what the back label says.

Day 4 - Quite confectionary on the nose now, and completely packed in the mouth. Interestingly, this really has little flavor complexity, "just" great depth and purity for a wine this loaded. More of (basically) one thing.

I wonder what what this would be like with some Malvasia for lift and spice?


$50

Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2000

Red, rust rim.

Discreet nose of red cherry jam, earth/meat, spice and garrigue/herbal tea. Iron/blood as a late arrival.

Round and mouth-filling. Acid-dominant structure frames flavors immediately, giving the front teeth a good coating of mineral/tannin chew. Quite refined in all aspects, however. Again, there is a suggestion of Pinot in the lightness/fineness of touch without any sacrifice in flavor length. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume" in spades.

No sense of purposeful extraction here.

Beautiful.

Day 4 - End of bottle. A bit more open-knit than day 1, but has lost nothing. The Avrils have little to worry about as long as they kick out wines like this. The New World, myself included, can't match the class (and easy complexity) here (yet).

$50

Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa 2003

Yellow.

Creamy, vanilla, oak-dominated nose with some ripe pineapple underneath.

Very plush, oak-influenced flavors. Subtle lemon and pineapple notes also, with mineral chew providing nice framing structure. Very easy-going and delicious. Relatively long, refined oak finish.

This is tasty, but is it any wonder why Riesling sales were up 26% last year? Malvasia and Gruner Veltliner can't be far behind.

Day 2 - I should have realized this needed air time. Dried pineapple and lemon zest, petrol (ironically Riesling-like), sulfide/truffle nose. Still smells creamy. Mineral/sulfide structure is bracing and immediate, with lemon custard flavors a bit dis-jointed in mid-palate. Wild today, nothing easy-going here. I can't remember a wine changing this much in one day.

Day 4 - Petrol now dominates nose, round caramel-enhanced palate, with serious mineral chew in long caramel finish.


$75

Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas 1999

Red with rust rim.

Smoke and salami aromatics.

Very plush entry, round, very suave compared to Bouissiere, but also less concentrated and interesting. I think this has seen a bit of filtration.. No doubt, however, this will appeal to a broader range of folks, as it still wears a brett influence, only more gently, and finely, packaged. Nice, pure, cherry finish.

$25

Turley Grist Vyd. (Dry Creek) Zinfandel 2002

Deep red.

Lifted, spicy red fruit nose. Exotic wood and meat too. Savory.

Sweet entry, slightly abrasive mid-palate acidity cuts flavor considerably. But it kicks back in, forcibly, on long, acid-enhanced finish.

15.7% alcohol, but seems lower, and quite light-handed in extraction.


$45?

Maurel "Les Galets Blonds" Chateauneuf du Pape 1999

Red, rust rim.

Iron, nuts, meat and red cherry sauce. Expansive compared to the Bouissiere.

Round and relatively generous in the mouth. Blood/iron initially, then garrigue kicks in. Much more giving than the Gigondas,
but there's a wild density in the Bouissiere that I love. Kirsch kicks in on long mildly chewy finish.

Actually a good example of the difference between these two apellations. Gigondas deep, but short on refinement (best examples) - Chateauneuf more suave, heady and fruit-driven.


$30

Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas 1999

Deep red.

Salami and spicy red fruit nose. Actually quite attractive. Smoke and garrigue nuances too.

Quite concentrated in the mouth, with intense spicy garrigue and root vegetable flavors. Black cherry shows up late. Structured throughout with grainy tannin, but flavor concentration keeps it on the sidelines.

Funny - my first bottles several years ago were hard as nails, and critical reviews were lukewarm. Gave many bottles away.
I'm keeping the rest. This would be great with (again) lamb stew.

Day 3 - Gamey character now in the background, garrigue front and center. My 10 year old says Fuji apple. I'll be damned, but it does smell of cinnamon sprinkled apples (too). But flavors are distinctly beet root and resinous herbs, with slightly aggressive (stem?) tannins. Gigondas as the Cornas of the south?

Packed and totally killer wine. A large, extended middle-finger directed at those looking for seamless, confectionary wines.


$25