Tuesday, March 13, 2007

FX Pichler Kellerberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2005 (Austria)

Bright yellow.

Low-toned pepper/spice, hint of grapefruit and tobacco. Suggestion of meat broth richness - this definitely has RS.

Packed in the mouth, grapefruit front and center, pepper/spice and lentil combine in the long, RS enhanced finish. A big, thick harmonious thing loaded with flavor and length. Very FX. Ridiculously long, chewy, tactile finish.

I often think of him as Austria's Helen Turley, though it occurs to me that neither would be happy with that comparison.
The idea being that both bring a sumptuous, meat marrow palate character all the while throwing out sparks of crystal clear flavor complexity. It pays to be patient with a glass of either's wine.

$70