Red.
Vinturi - subtle, complex nose - pepper/herbs/earth/raspberry/savory meat/oak spice. Keeps changing in the glass.
Round, really round, with sour green/acid edge hitting late, but making up for lost time. Showing no complexity to speak of on the palate, but that is a matter of time. Does not show any mid-palate let up, like some other '03s I've had. Significant acid/tannin constriction in the finish.
Day 3 - Smoked meat front and center, with other aromatic components subordinated. In the mouth, also, but still constricted and not complex.
$60
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Cantina Terlano "Porphyr" Lagrein Riserva, Alto Adige 2005
Saturated purple.
Suave oak toast, hazelnut cream, black currant, pepper and earth. Better w/o the Vinturi. Reminds me of Bordeaux.
A round and mouth-filling middle-weight, though a bit flat initially. Very nice length and refinement, developing more lift/life as it airs over an hour. Really reminds me of solid Bordeaux.
1.5 hours in - this is killing it now. Loaded, structured.
$45. Lagrein is related to Syrah through the shared parent Dureza. And some DNA folks are now suggesting that Pinot and Syrah are related, though I can't tell if it is also through Dureza or another shared parent.
Suave oak toast, hazelnut cream, black currant, pepper and earth. Better w/o the Vinturi. Reminds me of Bordeaux.
A round and mouth-filling middle-weight, though a bit flat initially. Very nice length and refinement, developing more lift/life as it airs over an hour. Really reminds me of solid Bordeaux.
1.5 hours in - this is killing it now. Loaded, structured.
$45. Lagrein is related to Syrah through the shared parent Dureza. And some DNA folks are now suggesting that Pinot and Syrah are related, though I can't tell if it is also through Dureza or another shared parent.
Monday, December 28, 2009
Marcassin "Blue Slide Ridge" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2004
Red.
Very deep nose shows lifted spice notes, savory meat, black cherry coulis, black pepper, and earth/truffle.
Round and mouth-filling, sensual and packed. Nice acid/tannin synergy reins it in a bit. Very well-balanced for a wine so concentrated. Nothing heavy here, either. Cinnamon/disulfide lift in the mid-palate, with corresponding light tannic chew. Not wildly complex, in the usual sense of the word, but it's hard to complain...
$85
Very deep nose shows lifted spice notes, savory meat, black cherry coulis, black pepper, and earth/truffle.
Round and mouth-filling, sensual and packed. Nice acid/tannin synergy reins it in a bit. Very well-balanced for a wine so concentrated. Nothing heavy here, either. Cinnamon/disulfide lift in the mid-palate, with corresponding light tannic chew. Not wildly complex, in the usual sense of the word, but it's hard to complain...
$85
Beaux Freres "Ribbon Ridge" Pinot Noir 2007
Light red.
Spicy red cherry, earth, herb aromas and suave barrel integration on the nose.
Round entry with stiffening, spicy, stem tannin providing front teeth chew. Bright, intense, black cherry and spice flavors go the distance. Flavor and structure running on two tracks. Nothing at all heavy or overdone here. Long, spicy finish. Completely different in style than my first BF back in the mid-late '90's. This will definitely be better with 4-6 years in the cellar.
Gift - $70?
Spicy red cherry, earth, herb aromas and suave barrel integration on the nose.
Round entry with stiffening, spicy, stem tannin providing front teeth chew. Bright, intense, black cherry and spice flavors go the distance. Flavor and structure running on two tracks. Nothing at all heavy or overdone here. Long, spicy finish. Completely different in style than my first BF back in the mid-late '90's. This will definitely be better with 4-6 years in the cellar.
Gift - $70?
Argyle "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2006
Light red.
Cinnamon, cranberry and earth nose shows a bit of heat.
Round, easy entry with light red fruit flavors. Doesn't really come together, though, or show much depth. Heat here too.
Gift - $35? 14.5% alcohol listed.
Cinnamon, cranberry and earth nose shows a bit of heat.
Round, easy entry with light red fruit flavors. Doesn't really come together, though, or show much depth. Heat here too.
Gift - $35? 14.5% alcohol listed.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Mas Foulaquier "L'Orphee" Pic Saint-Loup 2007
Red/purple.
Vinturi - licorice, shoe polish, earth, black raspberry on the nose. Deep, interesting.
Round and sweet texturally in a Grenache sort of way (don't know what the blend is here). Spicy red and black fruit throughout, with fairly strong framing acidity. Tightly wound, but definitely gives up some of the goods now. Better in a few years. There are stem tannins here - coating the side teeth in "chew". PFG.
$20.
Vinturi - licorice, shoe polish, earth, black raspberry on the nose. Deep, interesting.
Round and sweet texturally in a Grenache sort of way (don't know what the blend is here). Spicy red and black fruit throughout, with fairly strong framing acidity. Tightly wound, but definitely gives up some of the goods now. Better in a few years. There are stem tannins here - coating the side teeth in "chew". PFG.
$20.
Pax "Nepenthe" Alder Springs Vyd., Mendocino County 2007
Hazy straw.
Subdued nose of pear, lemon.
Easy, sweet textural character cut immediately by mineral/acid edge. Extremely difficult not to like this. Nothing huge about it, though quite concentrated. Vibrant, long, finishing flavors of lemon and light almond. Could drink a boatload of this.
$40. 50% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 15% Viognier. 14.9% alcohol.
Subdued nose of pear, lemon.
Easy, sweet textural character cut immediately by mineral/acid edge. Extremely difficult not to like this. Nothing huge about it, though quite concentrated. Vibrant, long, finishing flavors of lemon and light almond. Could drink a boatload of this.
$40. 50% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 15% Viognier. 14.9% alcohol.
Friday, December 25, 2009
Bussola "BG" Amarone 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - ultra-deep, loaded aromas of truffle/earth, smoke, cherry jam, savory hazelnut.
Odd celery flavor allied with textural depth matching that of the nose. Continues throughout. Not sure if this will develop well or not.. Certainly deep, but intrusive celery action is a major distraction. Opened yesterday.
$50
Vinturi - ultra-deep, loaded aromas of truffle/earth, smoke, cherry jam, savory hazelnut.
Odd celery flavor allied with textural depth matching that of the nose. Continues throughout. Not sure if this will develop well or not.. Certainly deep, but intrusive celery action is a major distraction. Opened yesterday.
$50
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Grand Veneur "Les Origines" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999
Red.
Cherry/plum jelly, pepper, cinnamon and earth nose.
Round, with a slight textural sweetness. Definitely more bass here than in the Burgundys, though not nearly as evolved in character. Cherry jam and herbs in the mouth, with relatively strong acid/tannin synergy clamping down in the finish. Pepper and herbs linger. This seems nowhere near its peak.
$25.
Cherry/plum jelly, pepper, cinnamon and earth nose.
Round, with a slight textural sweetness. Definitely more bass here than in the Burgundys, though not nearly as evolved in character. Cherry jam and herbs in the mouth, with relatively strong acid/tannin synergy clamping down in the finish. Pepper and herbs linger. This seems nowhere near its peak.
$25.
Vincent Girardin "Les Grands Epenots, Vieilles Vignes" Pommard 1999
Deep red.
No obvious Brett here - oak char, grilled/savory meat, red cherry jelly, forest floor, sexy spices. Beautiful nose. Also shows grilled herbs, worn leather and shoe polish as it sits.
Round and deep, with more immediate, obvious, tannic backbone than the Corton Renardes. Great mid-palate depth. Shows a hint of iron. Firm tannin really impedes finishing fruit flavor, but, interestingly, not the iron action. Seems to need several more years.. Impressive. Both of these Girardin wines were brutally tannic and dominated by wood 6-7 years ago.
$50.
No obvious Brett here - oak char, grilled/savory meat, red cherry jelly, forest floor, sexy spices. Beautiful nose. Also shows grilled herbs, worn leather and shoe polish as it sits.
Round and deep, with more immediate, obvious, tannic backbone than the Corton Renardes. Great mid-palate depth. Shows a hint of iron. Firm tannin really impedes finishing fruit flavor, but, interestingly, not the iron action. Seems to need several more years.. Impressive. Both of these Girardin wines were brutally tannic and dominated by wood 6-7 years ago.
$50.
Baron de la Charriere, Corton Renardes "Vieilles Vignes" 1999
Dull, evolved red.
Wild nose - iron, oak char, grilled/wilted herbs, pepper, hazelnut, cinnamon ... Keeps adding stuff with air. Reminiscent of the Alesia Pinot some time ago.
Round and plush, with an acid/wilted green/saline edge keeping everything in place. Densely packed, with red cherry jam flavor making a welcome appearance. Iron and herbs too. Tannin gives a "chewiness" to the finish. Increasingly so. Interesting and subtle, despite (or because of?) the Brett influence.
$40. From Vincent Girardin, imported by Eric Solomon. Grand Cru Burgundy.
Wild nose - iron, oak char, grilled/wilted herbs, pepper, hazelnut, cinnamon ... Keeps adding stuff with air. Reminiscent of the Alesia Pinot some time ago.
Round and plush, with an acid/wilted green/saline edge keeping everything in place. Densely packed, with red cherry jam flavor making a welcome appearance. Iron and herbs too. Tannin gives a "chewiness" to the finish. Increasingly so. Interesting and subtle, despite (or because of?) the Brett influence.
$40. From Vincent Girardin, imported by Eric Solomon. Grand Cru Burgundy.
Monday, December 21, 2009
Tapteil, Merlot, Red Mountain, Yakima Valley 2004
Deep red.
Vinturi - deep, low-toned nose - hazelnut sauce, earth, oak spice and black fruit jam. Pepper too, as it sits.
Round and mouth-filling, with great concentration and "guts", though a bit rustic. Considerable tannin does not kill finishing flavors of chocolate and cherries. Very satisfying action. A couple of enthusiastic folks could easily drain this with several lamb chops. Think Pete Rose flying head-first into 3rd base.
$32. 14.5% listed alcohol.
Vinturi - deep, low-toned nose - hazelnut sauce, earth, oak spice and black fruit jam. Pepper too, as it sits.
Round and mouth-filling, with great concentration and "guts", though a bit rustic. Considerable tannin does not kill finishing flavors of chocolate and cherries. Very satisfying action. A couple of enthusiastic folks could easily drain this with several lamb chops. Think Pete Rose flying head-first into 3rd base.
$32. 14.5% listed alcohol.
Casas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 1999
Red/purple.
Vinturi - charred oak/cigar ash, subtle juniper/clove, black fruit liqueur, earth, toasted nut nose.
Sweet initial textural feel immediately slapped into shape by strong acidity and moderate tannin. This will be interesting to watch over a few days, as the acidity gets the best of the flavor flow, essentially killing it in the finish. Front teeth completely constricted by acid/tannin "chew".
$35. 15.7% alcohol, from a cool region in western Australia.
Vinturi - charred oak/cigar ash, subtle juniper/clove, black fruit liqueur, earth, toasted nut nose.
Sweet initial textural feel immediately slapped into shape by strong acidity and moderate tannin. This will be interesting to watch over a few days, as the acidity gets the best of the flavor flow, essentially killing it in the finish. Front teeth completely constricted by acid/tannin "chew".
$35. 15.7% alcohol, from a cool region in western Australia.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Januik, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2006
Deep red.
Vinturi - herbs, cinnamon, red and black cherry coulis, ash, earth nose. Expressive and extremely attractive.
Round and plush, with an edge of acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Cherry and cinnamon flavors throughout. Tannin really isn't much of an issue. I'd guess this will become considerably more complex with a few more years of cellaring. RGS. Pure.
$42. Januik was the longtime winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle. He also makes Petit Verdot, something I need to snag some bottles of.
Vinturi - herbs, cinnamon, red and black cherry coulis, ash, earth nose. Expressive and extremely attractive.
Round and plush, with an edge of acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Cherry and cinnamon flavors throughout. Tannin really isn't much of an issue. I'd guess this will become considerably more complex with a few more years of cellaring. RGS. Pure.
$42. Januik was the longtime winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle. He also makes Petit Verdot, something I need to snag some bottles of.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Muga "Seleccion Especial" Rioja 2001
Very deep red.
Vinturi - expressive pepper/earth/meat/baked black fruit nose. Smells deep and loaded.
Round and plush throughout, with spicy, earthy, baked black fruit flavors start to finish. This is loaded in every department, but not huge by any measure. Synergy. Love this stuff.
$27.
Vinturi - expressive pepper/earth/meat/baked black fruit nose. Smells deep and loaded.
Round and plush throughout, with spicy, earthy, baked black fruit flavors start to finish. This is loaded in every department, but not huge by any measure. Synergy. Love this stuff.
$27.
Arietta "H Block" Hudson Vyds., Napa Valley 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - heavy toast oak, roasted herbs/red chile, melted chocolate nose.
Plush, deep, in the mouth initially. Then dis-jointed in the mid-palate, with acidity out of whack. Every time I go back to these wines I'm disappointed. Anybody want some? I think this got a 98 in the Wine Advocate. Good advice - buy stuff from the south of France and Spain at 1/3 the price and be prepared to be thrilled.
Day 3 - Much better aromatic integration, still low-toned. Acidity (decent bit of VA) still aggressive, continuing to give a dis-jointed impression in the mouth.
$75. CF and Merlot I think.
Vinturi - heavy toast oak, roasted herbs/red chile, melted chocolate nose.
Plush, deep, in the mouth initially. Then dis-jointed in the mid-palate, with acidity out of whack. Every time I go back to these wines I'm disappointed. Anybody want some? I think this got a 98 in the Wine Advocate. Good advice - buy stuff from the south of France and Spain at 1/3 the price and be prepared to be thrilled.
Day 3 - Much better aromatic integration, still low-toned. Acidity (decent bit of VA) still aggressive, continuing to give a dis-jointed impression in the mouth.
$75. CF and Merlot I think.
Clerico "Ginestra" Barolo 1996
Deep red, some rim evolution.
Vinturi - integrated, beautiful nose - hazelnut and cherry liqueurs, earth, oak spice, menthol and savory meat (think stew).
Lean and intense in the mouth, makes the Passopisciaro '06 awhile back look fat. Red cherry, oak spice and hazelnut flavors buttressed by just enough mid-palate flesh to keep this from being hard. All acid/tannin synergy in the finish. Late note of iron.
Only 13 years old ... Killer stuff wafting out of the empty glass.
$50?
Vinturi - integrated, beautiful nose - hazelnut and cherry liqueurs, earth, oak spice, menthol and savory meat (think stew).
Lean and intense in the mouth, makes the Passopisciaro '06 awhile back look fat. Red cherry, oak spice and hazelnut flavors buttressed by just enough mid-palate flesh to keep this from being hard. All acid/tannin synergy in the finish. Late note of iron.
Only 13 years old ... Killer stuff wafting out of the empty glass.
$50?
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Linne Calodo "Sticks and Stones" Paso Robles 2004
Deep red.
Vinturi - pepper, oak spice/nut, grilled meat, earth nose shows a bit of heat. Sexy, though, and adds herb and fig notes with air.
Round and Paso sweet, texturally, with reasonably strong supporting acidity that keeps everything fresh. Still, this shows distracting alcohol in the mid-palate that throws a wrench into the flavor flow. Alcohol and acid synergy in the finish.
Day 3 - Seamless and sexy nose. Round, sweet, with no heat showing. Great mid-palate depth. Just lacks complexity.
$68. 57% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre. 15.8% alcohol listed.
Vinturi - pepper, oak spice/nut, grilled meat, earth nose shows a bit of heat. Sexy, though, and adds herb and fig notes with air.
Round and Paso sweet, texturally, with reasonably strong supporting acidity that keeps everything fresh. Still, this shows distracting alcohol in the mid-palate that throws a wrench into the flavor flow. Alcohol and acid synergy in the finish.
Day 3 - Seamless and sexy nose. Round, sweet, with no heat showing. Great mid-palate depth. Just lacks complexity.
$68. 57% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre. 15.8% alcohol listed.
Domaine Gardies "Vieilles Vignes" Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2006
Red/purple.
Vinturi - Shoe polish, fig paste, earth, blackberry liqueur on the nose. Smells dense/packed/lively. Reminds me of Priorat, only more bass here.
Round and sweet in the mouth, with a nice edge of framing acidity. Not fat, but not hard either. Even-keeled throughout, with an exotic apricot note. Quite energetic/lively and could use a few more years in the bottle to give up (all) the goods.
$28. Grenache/Carignan?
Vinturi - Shoe polish, fig paste, earth, blackberry liqueur on the nose. Smells dense/packed/lively. Reminds me of Priorat, only more bass here.
Round and sweet in the mouth, with a nice edge of framing acidity. Not fat, but not hard either. Even-keeled throughout, with an exotic apricot note. Quite energetic/lively and could use a few more years in the bottle to give up (all) the goods.
$28. Grenache/Carignan?
Cantina Terlano "Lunare" Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige 2006
Yellow/gold.
Deeply pitched nose of spiced peach jam, lychee candy and smoked salmon. Light note of fresh herbs, too. Additional nuances as it airs.
Round, slightly saline and sweet in the mouth, with a medicinal/iodine aspect. Wild. Shows no heat. Acidity and tannic chew actually cut through all the richness in the finish. I'm not sure if there's RS here or not. Huge flavors of slightly roasted yellow fruit jam. Can't say this is refined, but it is certainly distinctive and loaded. Lemon drop late in the extremely long finish.
$45. From a Co-op in NE Italy.
Deeply pitched nose of spiced peach jam, lychee candy and smoked salmon. Light note of fresh herbs, too. Additional nuances as it airs.
Round, slightly saline and sweet in the mouth, with a medicinal/iodine aspect. Wild. Shows no heat. Acidity and tannic chew actually cut through all the richness in the finish. I'm not sure if there's RS here or not. Huge flavors of slightly roasted yellow fruit jam. Can't say this is refined, but it is certainly distinctive and loaded. Lemon drop late in the extremely long finish.
$45. From a Co-op in NE Italy.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Walter Dacon, Viognier, Yakima Valley 2008
Platinum.
Apple and peach aromas.
Round and sweet (RS too), with apple and fresh pear flavors. Nice finishing acidity cuts the overt sweetness. Getting better as it sits. Tasty, simple.
$20
Apple and peach aromas.
Round and sweet (RS too), with apple and fresh pear flavors. Nice finishing acidity cuts the overt sweetness. Getting better as it sits. Tasty, simple.
$20
F. Langwerth von Simmern, Riesling, Spatlese, Rauenthaler Baiken, Rheingau 2005
Yellow. Some residual CO2.
Poached, spiced peach, meal/earth and a hint of petrol on the nose.
Deep and sweet in the mouth, with ripe, sugared, peach and peach pit flavors. Fortunately has fairly strong acidity cutting the RS and the overt sweet fruit character. Finishes with acid/mineral chew coating the teeth and lingering smoky, sweet peach flavors. PFG, though nearly dessert in style.
$30? Gift from Tim Mueller. Imported by Frank in Tucson.
Poached, spiced peach, meal/earth and a hint of petrol on the nose.
Deep and sweet in the mouth, with ripe, sugared, peach and peach pit flavors. Fortunately has fairly strong acidity cutting the RS and the overt sweet fruit character. Finishes with acid/mineral chew coating the teeth and lingering smoky, sweet peach flavors. PFG, though nearly dessert in style.
$30? Gift from Tim Mueller. Imported by Frank in Tucson.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Arrowood, Viognier, Russian River Valley, Saralee's Vyd. 2006
Pale straw, slight haze (unfiltered?).
Extremely fine, subtle, aromas of peach/apricot/pear, lychee candy.
Round with absolutely delicious flavors of perfectly ripe pear and apricot. Nice acid edge frames everything unobtrusively, and keeps any sense of overt sweetness in check. Really beautiful stuff. And I was worried that it might be over the hill...
This bottle is going down tonight.
$25. Gift from the Padres. Always a family favorite.
Extremely fine, subtle, aromas of peach/apricot/pear, lychee candy.
Round with absolutely delicious flavors of perfectly ripe pear and apricot. Nice acid edge frames everything unobtrusively, and keeps any sense of overt sweetness in check. Really beautiful stuff. And I was worried that it might be over the hill...
This bottle is going down tonight.
$25. Gift from the Padres. Always a family favorite.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - this is more like it - understated, sexy nose - hazelnut, red cherry coulis, earth, spice, savory meat.
Intense in the mouth, with strong acidity honing flavors. There's a bit of celery character here that also showed in the Calvario. Very tightly knit throughout, like the Calvario. Shows very little, shut down completely in the finish. Fresh sage very late. This could use another 6-8 years or more.
$80. 100% Tempranillo from old vineyards (Pagos Viejos).
Vinturi - this is more like it - understated, sexy nose - hazelnut, red cherry coulis, earth, spice, savory meat.
Intense in the mouth, with strong acidity honing flavors. There's a bit of celery character here that also showed in the Calvario. Very tightly knit throughout, like the Calvario. Shows very little, shut down completely in the finish. Fresh sage very late. This could use another 6-8 years or more.
$80. 100% Tempranillo from old vineyards (Pagos Viejos).
Finca Allende "Calvario" Rioja 2001
Red/purple.
Vinturi - smoky/toasty oak, fig, earth and reticent black pepper on the nose.
Very interesting in the mouth - oak char and a sour green character. Not sure if this bottle is off. Certainly not expressing much at the moment - green acid edge cuts everything off at the knees.
$70. 100% Tempranillo from a vineyard planted in 1945.
Vinturi - smoky/toasty oak, fig, earth and reticent black pepper on the nose.
Very interesting in the mouth - oak char and a sour green character. Not sure if this bottle is off. Certainly not expressing much at the moment - green acid edge cuts everything off at the knees.
$70. 100% Tempranillo from a vineyard planted in 1945.
Monday, December 7, 2009
Massena "The Howling Dog" Barossa Valley 2005
Saturated red/purple.
Vinturi - typical, funky, Massena old barrel nose - green (bordering on fresh horseshit), medicinal, with toasted nut and deep black fruit loitering in the basement. Better as it sits. Horseshit eventually banished to the basement.
Round and mouth-filling, especially for Petite Sirah. Flavors effectively mirroring the nose. Interestingly, this really doesn't show any sense of weight. Very fine, texturally speaking, for PS. Finishes with finely grained tannin as well. Obviously not for everyone, but this would rock with some lamb fat.
Day 2 - Now we're getting somewhere. Savory meat, pepper, nuts, fig aromatics. Still a bit wild in the mouth, including a saline element, but expanded texturally. Tannin still quite fine.
$45. Petite Sirah. From Dan Standish (formerly winemaker at Torbreck) and the winemaker from Turkey Flat.
Vinturi - typical, funky, Massena old barrel nose - green (bordering on fresh horseshit), medicinal, with toasted nut and deep black fruit loitering in the basement. Better as it sits. Horseshit eventually banished to the basement.
Round and mouth-filling, especially for Petite Sirah. Flavors effectively mirroring the nose. Interestingly, this really doesn't show any sense of weight. Very fine, texturally speaking, for PS. Finishes with finely grained tannin as well. Obviously not for everyone, but this would rock with some lamb fat.
Day 2 - Now we're getting somewhere. Savory meat, pepper, nuts, fig aromatics. Still a bit wild in the mouth, including a saline element, but expanded texturally. Tannin still quite fine.
$45. Petite Sirah. From Dan Standish (formerly winemaker at Torbreck) and the winemaker from Turkey Flat.
Pax "Moriah" Sonoma County 2007
Red.
Vinturi - serious, pure, aromas of raspberry coulis, nut cream sauce, earth, licorice and a lifted character (stems?). No sign of alcohol.
Plush, dense and taut simultaneously. Quite a feat. Flavors need to unwind - raspberry and earth (sulfide) currently. Finishes with fairly strong acid/mineral constriction. If there are stems here, and I think there are, the percentage is way lower than in '05. Needs 3-5 years to strut, and should drink well for many years thereafter.
$50. 80% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 8% Syrah, 4% Counoise. 15.4% alcohol listed.
Vinturi - serious, pure, aromas of raspberry coulis, nut cream sauce, earth, licorice and a lifted character (stems?). No sign of alcohol.
Plush, dense and taut simultaneously. Quite a feat. Flavors need to unwind - raspberry and earth (sulfide) currently. Finishes with fairly strong acid/mineral constriction. If there are stems here, and I think there are, the percentage is way lower than in '05. Needs 3-5 years to strut, and should drink well for many years thereafter.
$50. 80% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 8% Syrah, 4% Counoise. 15.4% alcohol listed.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Achaval-Ferrer "Quimera" Mendoza 2006
Saturated purple/red.
Vinturi - deep nose - clay/earth, hazelnut sauce, fig. Savory.
Middle-weight, intense and lean. Manages some nice initial roundness and plush mid-palate. Not a great deal of flavor precision, but makes up for it, to some extent, with monochromatic "guts". Reminds me of Artadi's "Vinas de Gain" in that sense, bound to be a bit over-rated. But a pretty thing, nonetheless, and may well acquire more complexity with bottle-age. Finish is lean, though. Does not have the concentration I initially thought it had. We'll see...
$35. 34% Malbec, 32% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc.
Vinturi - deep nose - clay/earth, hazelnut sauce, fig. Savory.
Middle-weight, intense and lean. Manages some nice initial roundness and plush mid-palate. Not a great deal of flavor precision, but makes up for it, to some extent, with monochromatic "guts". Reminds me of Artadi's "Vinas de Gain" in that sense, bound to be a bit over-rated. But a pretty thing, nonetheless, and may well acquire more complexity with bottle-age. Finish is lean, though. Does not have the concentration I initially thought it had. We'll see...
$35. 34% Malbec, 32% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc.
Massena "Moonlight Run" Barossa Valley 2006
Hazy red/purple.
Vinturi - deep, spicy, black fruit nose. Not delineated.
Round, with textural sweetness and a saline character. Slightly grainy, with good concentration/stuffing. Like the nose, this lacks clarity. Finishes with acid-driven constriction that shuts down flavors.
Day 6 - Better purity and fruit sweetness. No structural impediment to finishing flavors. Give it time.
$30. 54% Grenache, 24% Shiraz, 16% Mataro (Mourvedre), 6% Cinsaut.
Vinturi - deep, spicy, black fruit nose. Not delineated.
Round, with textural sweetness and a saline character. Slightly grainy, with good concentration/stuffing. Like the nose, this lacks clarity. Finishes with acid-driven constriction that shuts down flavors.
Day 6 - Better purity and fruit sweetness. No structural impediment to finishing flavors. Give it time.
$30. 54% Grenache, 24% Shiraz, 16% Mataro (Mourvedre), 6% Cinsaut.
Forman, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1994 - 2000
1994 - Fabulous nose - toast, black fruit, earth, hazelnut. Seamless and very sexy. Round, plush entry with nice herb action. Very refined and subtle. As with most of the wines, this shows no sense of weight or alcohol. My favorite wine of the night.
1996 - Very deep nose shows some brett influence (meaty, slightly medicinal) that adds complexity. Even a hint of brine. Deep and powerful in the mouth, herbs and earth.
1999 - Beautiful nose. Deep, but less direct fruit and more earth and wild herbs. Reminds me of some of my favorite wines from the south of France. Concentrated and tannic, but not hard. Spicy, loaded. I really enjoyed this stuff.
2000 - Not a group favorite, but I thought it had far more depth and complexity than the others gave it credit for. Smells like sumptuous food (earth, meat, melted cheese) with lifted white and black pepper. Deep and sensual, with refined tannin and very good mid-palate material. Shows a bit of heat.
I think the wines from '91 on (in this tasting) show the results of better farming and probably more refined winemaking. The heavy rains in 1989 made canopy management priority #1 in the '90's. The wines in this period seem to me to show not only more depth, but also more complexity. None of these wines are "big", but all are interesting and full of life. Which is what Forman is all about, apparently.
1996 - Very deep nose shows some brett influence (meaty, slightly medicinal) that adds complexity. Even a hint of brine. Deep and powerful in the mouth, herbs and earth.
1999 - Beautiful nose. Deep, but less direct fruit and more earth and wild herbs. Reminds me of some of my favorite wines from the south of France. Concentrated and tannic, but not hard. Spicy, loaded. I really enjoyed this stuff.
2000 - Not a group favorite, but I thought it had far more depth and complexity than the others gave it credit for. Smells like sumptuous food (earth, meat, melted cheese) with lifted white and black pepper. Deep and sensual, with refined tannin and very good mid-palate material. Shows a bit of heat.
I think the wines from '91 on (in this tasting) show the results of better farming and probably more refined winemaking. The heavy rains in 1989 made canopy management priority #1 in the '90's. The wines in this period seem to me to show not only more depth, but also more complexity. None of these wines are "big", but all are interesting and full of life. Which is what Forman is all about, apparently.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Forman, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 1986 - 1992
1986 - Shows some attractive green herb notes on the nose and in the mouth. Very pretty stuff, tapering on the finish. No sign of decline.
1987 - Similar to the '86, but deeper. A bit less clarity of flavor. Very nice, attractive wine that was the overall group favorite.
1991 - Very interesting, complex nose - herbs, black fruit, white and black pepper. All subtle. Shows much more palate depth than the two previous wines along with firmer tannin. Refined black fruit character is still tightly wound, even showing a medicinal quality.
1992 - Ripest fruit character so far, with nice oak spice and toasted nut action. Round/sensual, but not showing a great deal of depth or complexity. Still, like all the wines tasted, I'd have no problem draining this any time, any place...
Bottles and dinner provided by Mike and Bonnie Irwin. 1994 - 2000 tomorrow.
1987 - Similar to the '86, but deeper. A bit less clarity of flavor. Very nice, attractive wine that was the overall group favorite.
1991 - Very interesting, complex nose - herbs, black fruit, white and black pepper. All subtle. Shows much more palate depth than the two previous wines along with firmer tannin. Refined black fruit character is still tightly wound, even showing a medicinal quality.
1992 - Ripest fruit character so far, with nice oak spice and toasted nut action. Round/sensual, but not showing a great deal of depth or complexity. Still, like all the wines tasted, I'd have no problem draining this any time, any place...
Bottles and dinner provided by Mike and Bonnie Irwin. 1994 - 2000 tomorrow.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Marcassin "Blue Slide Ridge" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2003
Deep red.
Deep, difficult nose - clay/earth, driving cinnamon, black cherry. A lifted reduction - which is absurd.
Completely, utterly, mouth-filling. This will piss some people off, primarily those that love Passopisciaro as a Pinot substitute. Definitely low-toned for Pinot, although the cinnamon edge/lift rescues it on the long finish. Major league (read "professional") bonefest. Not for those with scruples. But in the end, I think I prefer the Bondi. More intellectual stimulation there.
$100
Deep, difficult nose - clay/earth, driving cinnamon, black cherry. A lifted reduction - which is absurd.
Completely, utterly, mouth-filling. This will piss some people off, primarily those that love Passopisciaro as a Pinot substitute. Definitely low-toned for Pinot, although the cinnamon edge/lift rescues it on the long finish. Major league (read "professional") bonefest. Not for those with scruples. But in the end, I think I prefer the Bondi. More intellectual stimulation there.
$100
Alesia, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2003
Evolved, light, red.
WTF - this smells like a killer, older, Chateauneuf (with suave oak treatment) - iron, wilted greens, earth, hazelnut liqueur, black pepper. Holy shit.
Round and mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that again makes me think of Grenache. Then some sour "greens" that take me north. Not at all your typical Pinot, and sure to freak out many Pinot-philes. Doesn't have the depth or length of the Bondi, but this is singular Pinot.
$45? Gift from Kelly Mulville years ago. The second label (purchased fruit) of Kevin Harvey's Santa Cruz Mtn venture, the name escaping me at the moment. (It's Rhys)
WTF - this smells like a killer, older, Chateauneuf (with suave oak treatment) - iron, wilted greens, earth, hazelnut liqueur, black pepper. Holy shit.
Round and mouth-filling, with a textural sweetness that again makes me think of Grenache. Then some sour "greens" that take me north. Not at all your typical Pinot, and sure to freak out many Pinot-philes. Doesn't have the depth or length of the Bondi, but this is singular Pinot.
$45? Gift from Kelly Mulville years ago. The second label (purchased fruit) of Kevin Harvey's Santa Cruz Mtn venture, the name escaping me at the moment. (It's Rhys)
Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2003
Evolved red.
The usual sexy/sumptuous nose - spicy red cherry/underbrush/savory meat/cinnamon/hazelnut/earth. Integrated, seamless.
Round and mouth-filling, with a cinnamon edge/lift that keeps it real. Very interesting - I'm fairly certain that the cinnamon aspect is part of a disulfide issue. The 2001 Blue Slide showed it too. But who cares, the whole rocks. Round, sumptuous, lifted and extremely long. Nothing intrusive or out of place. Just continues to improve as it airs... Cherry, meat and cinnamon for minutes.
$75
The usual sexy/sumptuous nose - spicy red cherry/underbrush/savory meat/cinnamon/hazelnut/earth. Integrated, seamless.
Round and mouth-filling, with a cinnamon edge/lift that keeps it real. Very interesting - I'm fairly certain that the cinnamon aspect is part of a disulfide issue. The 2001 Blue Slide showed it too. But who cares, the whole rocks. Round, sumptuous, lifted and extremely long. Nothing intrusive or out of place. Just continues to improve as it airs... Cherry, meat and cinnamon for minutes.
$75
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Concha y Toro "Carmin de Peumo" Carmenere 2003
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - completely loaded, suave nose - smoke, toasted hazelnut, spiced fig, blackberry coulis and a green herb/veg component that is distinctive. Almost like green chile. Mr. Thackrey should source some....
Round and completely mouth-filling, with no sense of alcohol or desiccation. Seamless, with flavors vividly mirroring the nose. There's some serious structure here, but it rears its head quite late. Too late, in fact, to be intrusive. This is TFK. Great, subtle length. Congratulations to Concha y Toro for another great bottling of this variety.
$65. Carmenere, like Petit Verdot and Malbec, may well turn out to be another esoteric Bordeaux variety that rocks in many parts of the New World.
Vinturi - completely loaded, suave nose - smoke, toasted hazelnut, spiced fig, blackberry coulis and a green herb/veg component that is distinctive. Almost like green chile. Mr. Thackrey should source some....
Round and completely mouth-filling, with no sense of alcohol or desiccation. Seamless, with flavors vividly mirroring the nose. There's some serious structure here, but it rears its head quite late. Too late, in fact, to be intrusive. This is TFK. Great, subtle length. Congratulations to Concha y Toro for another great bottling of this variety.
$65. Carmenere, like Petit Verdot and Malbec, may well turn out to be another esoteric Bordeaux variety that rocks in many parts of the New World.
La Vieille Cure, Fronsac 2003
Purple/red.
Vinturi - sumptuous nose - savory grilled meat/suave oak/hazelnut liqueur. Black fruit underneath.
Broad (for Bordeaux) and round, initially, then serious acid/tannin constriction kicks in. This is packed and needs several more years to unwind. RFG. Black fruit and spice flavors run through it all.
$25
Vinturi - sumptuous nose - savory grilled meat/suave oak/hazelnut liqueur. Black fruit underneath.
Broad (for Bordeaux) and round, initially, then serious acid/tannin constriction kicks in. This is packed and needs several more years to unwind. RFG. Black fruit and spice flavors run through it all.
$25
Friday, November 27, 2009
Felsina "Rancia" Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Purple/red.
Vinturi - tar/creosote, black pepper, earth - difficult, loaded, nose. Needs coaxing. Savory, spicy meat drippings and black cherry sauce with time. Then white pepper.
Intense, linear, loaded middle-weight. Reminds me of great Bordeaux in that sense, just no (obvious) impression of new oak. Hard to differentiate flavors from structural elements here, inter-twined, synergistic. Nowhere near its prime. Give this at least 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Nothing difficult about the nose now. Really suave and savory, then serious structure kicks in, shutting down the mouth.
$40. Deal?
Vinturi - tar/creosote, black pepper, earth - difficult, loaded, nose. Needs coaxing. Savory, spicy meat drippings and black cherry sauce with time. Then white pepper.
Intense, linear, loaded middle-weight. Reminds me of great Bordeaux in that sense, just no (obvious) impression of new oak. Hard to differentiate flavors from structural elements here, inter-twined, synergistic. Nowhere near its prime. Give this at least 5-6 years.
Day 3 - Nothing difficult about the nose now. Really suave and savory, then serious structure kicks in, shutting down the mouth.
$40. Deal?
Passopisciaro, Rosso, Sicily 2006
Light, brilliant, red.
Vinturi - seductive, pure, vibrant nose - hazelnut, red cherry, cocoa, cranberry and earth. Very fine/discreet.
Round and mouth-filling with a simultaneous, serious, acid edge that frames everything and compresses it into a fastball down the middle of the mouth. Vibrant, taut red fruit and mineral character runs throughout. Just like the 2005, anyone that loves racy Burgundy will shoot a biscuit over this. Really beautiful, pristine stuff. It would be very interesting to taste this in 10 years.
$40. 100% Nerello Mascalese, an indigenous Sicilian variety. 14.5% alcohol listed. From Mr. Franchetti from Trinoro
Vinturi - seductive, pure, vibrant nose - hazelnut, red cherry, cocoa, cranberry and earth. Very fine/discreet.
Round and mouth-filling with a simultaneous, serious, acid edge that frames everything and compresses it into a fastball down the middle of the mouth. Vibrant, taut red fruit and mineral character runs throughout. Just like the 2005, anyone that loves racy Burgundy will shoot a biscuit over this. Really beautiful, pristine stuff. It would be very interesting to taste this in 10 years.
$40. 100% Nerello Mascalese, an indigenous Sicilian variety. 14.5% alcohol listed. From Mr. Franchetti from Trinoro
D. Ventura, Vina Caneiro, Ribeira Sacra (Spain) 2006
Deep red.
Vinturi - smoke/seared meat, herb/veg nose. Deep, with spiced fig underneath.
Round, with a wild, immediate hit of chicken broth, herbs and an aggressive acid/sulfide edge that mangles any flow or pleasure.
Apparently raised in stainless. Could use a whole lot of air. Or, possibly, many more years in bottle. Might work itself out.
$25. 100% Mencia
Vinturi - smoke/seared meat, herb/veg nose. Deep, with spiced fig underneath.
Round, with a wild, immediate hit of chicken broth, herbs and an aggressive acid/sulfide edge that mangles any flow or pleasure.
Apparently raised in stainless. Could use a whole lot of air. Or, possibly, many more years in bottle. Might work itself out.
$25. 100% Mencia
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Warre's, Vintage Porto 2007
Opaque black/purple.
Crazy, orgasmic, loaded aromas of Chambord reduction, pepper, earth, baked fruit confection. Huge depth, little sign of brandy.
Huge depth in the mouth as well, brandy/residual sugar effect just amplifies the massive black fruit and pepper action. Really refined finishing structure cuts directly through the sweet stuff, but does not kill the thrill. Absolutely FK. I must admit, I haven't generally loved the older bottles of Port I've had. I'm buying more of this and drinking it over the next 6-8 years.
Day 5 - More pepper now. Still ridiculously orgasmic. How is it possible that this sells for so little $$? This should retail for $100/375 mL or more. How can producers justify the expense with so little return? From what I've read, Port producers are at a real crossroads financially. Want to lose one of the greatest wine categories? I don't. Buy this stuff, drink it whenever you want. It will never disappoint.
$30, 375mL bottle. Buy it, love it.
Crazy, orgasmic, loaded aromas of Chambord reduction, pepper, earth, baked fruit confection. Huge depth, little sign of brandy.
Huge depth in the mouth as well, brandy/residual sugar effect just amplifies the massive black fruit and pepper action. Really refined finishing structure cuts directly through the sweet stuff, but does not kill the thrill. Absolutely FK. I must admit, I haven't generally loved the older bottles of Port I've had. I'm buying more of this and drinking it over the next 6-8 years.
Day 5 - More pepper now. Still ridiculously orgasmic. How is it possible that this sells for so little $$? This should retail for $100/375 mL or more. How can producers justify the expense with so little return? From what I've read, Port producers are at a real crossroads financially. Want to lose one of the greatest wine categories? I don't. Buy this stuff, drink it whenever you want. It will never disappoint.
$30, 375mL bottle. Buy it, love it.
Three Hills, Shiraz, Margaret River 2000
Purple/red.
Subdued nose (for this wine) hints at cracked pepper, eucalyptus, deep black fruit and savory meat/earth.
Round, seamless with some textural sweetness. Nicely delineated through the mid-palate and finish, with real lift and nice acid backbone that certainly comes across as "natural". This bottle is more corpulent than any previous, but lacks the clarity and wild lift of others. Opened yesterday, but not giving much up at all. Maybe it's time to drain any remaining bottles?
$40
Subdued nose (for this wine) hints at cracked pepper, eucalyptus, deep black fruit and savory meat/earth.
Round, seamless with some textural sweetness. Nicely delineated through the mid-palate and finish, with real lift and nice acid backbone that certainly comes across as "natural". This bottle is more corpulent than any previous, but lacks the clarity and wild lift of others. Opened yesterday, but not giving much up at all. Maybe it's time to drain any remaining bottles?
$40
Friday, November 20, 2009
Pure Love Wines "Layer Cake" Primitivo, Puglia (Italy) 2007
Purple/red.
Deep nose of black fruit coulis, shoe polish, oak spice(?) and earth. Serious.
Round, deep and a bit pruney in the mouth, but not ridiculously so. Fleshy mid-palate and much better than expected concentration keep this very enjoyable through the finish. Which gets earth/truffley like Amarone. A bit of acidity pokes its head out late, but this is RFG. Particularly for the $$.
$15. Saranex screwcap (higher oxygen ingress, somewhere between natural and synthetic cork)
Deep nose of black fruit coulis, shoe polish, oak spice(?) and earth. Serious.
Round, deep and a bit pruney in the mouth, but not ridiculously so. Fleshy mid-palate and much better than expected concentration keep this very enjoyable through the finish. Which gets earth/truffley like Amarone. A bit of acidity pokes its head out late, but this is RFG. Particularly for the $$.
$15. Saranex screwcap (higher oxygen ingress, somewhere between natural and synthetic cork)
Schloss-Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger" Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2008
Straw.
Spicy/peppery citrus zest, earth/lentil, lemon/pear jelly. Vibrant, distinctive.
Zesty, intense, citrus entry also reveals ripe pear and earth flavors. Great driving acidity pummels the "glands". Seems to have a touch of residual sugar that takes the edge off and lengthens the finish. God this stuff is killer/fun to drink.
$17 at Feast. Tin-lined screwcap. Forget music and Schwarzenegger, Gruner Veltliner is Austria's greatest gift to mankind.
Spicy/peppery citrus zest, earth/lentil, lemon/pear jelly. Vibrant, distinctive.
Zesty, intense, citrus entry also reveals ripe pear and earth flavors. Great driving acidity pummels the "glands". Seems to have a touch of residual sugar that takes the edge off and lengthens the finish. God this stuff is killer/fun to drink.
$17 at Feast. Tin-lined screwcap. Forget music and Schwarzenegger, Gruner Veltliner is Austria's greatest gift to mankind.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Pegau "Cuvee Reservee" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000
Deep red.
Vinturi - iron, cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/truffle, and a hint of celery on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling - ultimately a middle-weight. Iron and herbs echo strongly in the mouth, with a smoky/ember character kicking in as well. Fairly strong acidity drives moderate tannin onto the front teeth. Nothing brutal, however. Loads of fun with serious food. With additional air, this really does seem like it has seen time in at least some new oak. Lots of stem inclusion, but no new oak, though.
$50
Vinturi - iron, cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/truffle, and a hint of celery on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling - ultimately a middle-weight. Iron and herbs echo strongly in the mouth, with a smoky/ember character kicking in as well. Fairly strong acidity drives moderate tannin onto the front teeth. Nothing brutal, however. Loads of fun with serious food. With additional air, this really does seem like it has seen time in at least some new oak. Lots of stem inclusion, but no new oak, though.
$50
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Tablas Creek "Cotes de Tablas" Paso Robles 2007
Red/purple.
Vinturi - beautiful, vibrant, crushed raspberry, cream, spice and earth nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering fresh raspberry core. Here's a wine that has "energy" in spades, though not wildly complex. Acidity keeps this thing moving, eventually hitting the front teeth. I could drink a load of this. May try..
$22. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Counoise, 14.8% alcohol listed. Tin-lined sctrewcap.
Vinturi - beautiful, vibrant, crushed raspberry, cream, spice and earth nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering fresh raspberry core. Here's a wine that has "energy" in spades, though not wildly complex. Acidity keeps this thing moving, eventually hitting the front teeth. I could drink a load of this. May try..
$22. 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Counoise, 14.8% alcohol listed. Tin-lined sctrewcap.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines "Les Clos Sacres" Savennieres 2005
Yellow.
Nose of slightly over-ripe pineapple, poached pear, quince jelly and a light popcorn note.
Deep and powerful in the mouth, with a bit of alcohol peeking out. Great mid-palate flesh/concentration cut by mineral/acid edge. Pineapple, truffle and popcorn flavors keep kicking into an extremely long, lightly chewy finish. Distinctive and killer.
$38. 14.5% alcohol listed. Dry Chenin Blanc (with full malo, I'd guess) from the Loire Valley. This estate owned by Mr. Biodynamics - Nicolas Joly.
Nose of slightly over-ripe pineapple, poached pear, quince jelly and a light popcorn note.
Deep and powerful in the mouth, with a bit of alcohol peeking out. Great mid-palate flesh/concentration cut by mineral/acid edge. Pineapple, truffle and popcorn flavors keep kicking into an extremely long, lightly chewy finish. Distinctive and killer.
$38. 14.5% alcohol listed. Dry Chenin Blanc (with full malo, I'd guess) from the Loire Valley. This estate owned by Mr. Biodynamics - Nicolas Joly.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Domaine du Mas Blanc "Junquets" Collioure 2004
Deep red.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, iodine, brown spices and a hint of celery on the idiosyncratic nose. Raspberry underneath.
Round and a bit flat in the mouth - little of Tanzer's "energy". Pleasant, but this just isn't interesting. A bit better with some air time, but not much.
$30. Syrah with 5% each Roussanne and Marsanne.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, iodine, brown spices and a hint of celery on the idiosyncratic nose. Raspberry underneath.
Round and a bit flat in the mouth - little of Tanzer's "energy". Pleasant, but this just isn't interesting. A bit better with some air time, but not much.
$30. Syrah with 5% each Roussanne and Marsanne.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Leon Barral, Faugeres 2006
Deep red.
Vinturi - earth/iron/fig sauce/grilled meat nose. Light roasted herb note too.
Round, with a really sexy, sweet, textural feel. Expansive, but not fat/easy, as there's a nice edge of acidity that builds into the finish. Spicy, plush, red and black fruit flavors flow through the finish. Another stupid deal from southern France. This rocks.
Day 2 - Not much has changed up front, but the finish already shows signs of oxidation. If you open it, drain it. Which probably won't be too hard for most (normal) people.
$19. Primarily Grenache and Carignan.
Vinturi - earth/iron/fig sauce/grilled meat nose. Light roasted herb note too.
Round, with a really sexy, sweet, textural feel. Expansive, but not fat/easy, as there's a nice edge of acidity that builds into the finish. Spicy, plush, red and black fruit flavors flow through the finish. Another stupid deal from southern France. This rocks.
Day 2 - Not much has changed up front, but the finish already shows signs of oxidation. If you open it, drain it. Which probably won't be too hard for most (normal) people.
$19. Primarily Grenache and Carignan.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
L'Oustal Blanc "Naick 6" White Table Wine
Full yellow.
Deep nose of jellied white fruit, pear, peach, popcorn.
Deep, in the extreme, in the mouth. The popcorn/sulfide density here recalls nothing less than a great Marcassin Chardonnay. In fact, this would be a great ringer in a tasting of CA's best Chardonnays. Lifted and incredibly deep, with an underlying minerality that cuts through enormous concentration. Holy shit on a stick. Doug Levy wasn't bullshitting when he recommended this.
$42. Mostly Grenache Gris, I'm told. I assume that this didn't satisfy the local wine police - thus the "white wine" designation. 2006 vintage? Who knows, or cares? TFK.
Deep nose of jellied white fruit, pear, peach, popcorn.
Deep, in the extreme, in the mouth. The popcorn/sulfide density here recalls nothing less than a great Marcassin Chardonnay. In fact, this would be a great ringer in a tasting of CA's best Chardonnays. Lifted and incredibly deep, with an underlying minerality that cuts through enormous concentration. Holy shit on a stick. Doug Levy wasn't bullshitting when he recommended this.
$42. Mostly Grenache Gris, I'm told. I assume that this didn't satisfy the local wine police - thus the "white wine" designation. 2006 vintage? Who knows, or cares? TFK.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007
Deep red.
Vinturi - deep, refined, nose - vibrant red cherry, nut liqueur (Amaretto?), earth and a medicinal nuance. All of this discreet and fine. Subtle vanilla (stems?) late. Beautiful, killer.
Round and suave, with restrained textural sweetness. Kirsch, earth and garrigue - intense and measured. Serious acid/tannin synergy amplifies finishing flavors. I haven't tasted a VT this refined and loaded. Worth the $$$.
$75
Vinturi - deep, refined, nose - vibrant red cherry, nut liqueur (Amaretto?), earth and a medicinal nuance. All of this discreet and fine. Subtle vanilla (stems?) late. Beautiful, killer.
Round and suave, with restrained textural sweetness. Kirsch, earth and garrigue - intense and measured. Serious acid/tannin synergy amplifies finishing flavors. I haven't tasted a VT this refined and loaded. Worth the $$$.
$75
Domaine des Soulanes "Cuvee Jean Pull" Cotes Catalanes 2007
Purple/red.
Vinturi - gorgeous nose - deep, sweet black fruit (cherry, raspberry), earth, spice and a hint of hazelnut. Call me crazy, but there's a powdered sugar element to the fruit.. Whatever - this has to be good.
Round and Grenache-y sweet, texturally, deep and concentrated. Acid-driven tannin moves quickly, constricting the mid-palate and finish. But there's little question that this just needs bottle-age. Loaded and stupidly cheap.
$18. 55% Grenache, 45% Carignan
Vinturi - gorgeous nose - deep, sweet black fruit (cherry, raspberry), earth, spice and a hint of hazelnut. Call me crazy, but there's a powdered sugar element to the fruit.. Whatever - this has to be good.
Round and Grenache-y sweet, texturally, deep and concentrated. Acid-driven tannin moves quickly, constricting the mid-palate and finish. But there's little question that this just needs bottle-age. Loaded and stupidly cheap.
$18. 55% Grenache, 45% Carignan
Domaine de Poulvarel, Costieres de Nimes 2007
Deep red.
Vinturi - idiosyncratic, southern French nose - basil, earth, deep, bass, black fruit, pepper and other "stuff" I can't articulate.
Round, deep and all bass in the mouth as well. Could use more lift, although that may well come with more air time. Lots of material, but not singing at the moment. Iron note in the constricted finish.
Day 7 - No sign of oxidation on the nose. I'd guess this to be primarily Mourvedre. Deep black fruit, spice and game flavors now show a perfumed quality in the finish.
$17. 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah.
Vinturi - idiosyncratic, southern French nose - basil, earth, deep, bass, black fruit, pepper and other "stuff" I can't articulate.
Round, deep and all bass in the mouth as well. Could use more lift, although that may well come with more air time. Lots of material, but not singing at the moment. Iron note in the constricted finish.
Day 7 - No sign of oxidation on the nose. I'd guess this to be primarily Mourvedre. Deep black fruit, spice and game flavors now show a perfumed quality in the finish.
$17. 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Vinosia, Aglianico, Irpinia 2006
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - slightly odd nose lacks lift. Deep, stewed black fruit initially. More vibrant with air - fig paste, ash, sexy spice action.
Deep and seems a bit sweet (?), with strong acidity tamping down any textural expansiveness. This is a strange one. A definite sense of some residual sugar and a dis-jointed acid contribution. Interesting attempt to commercialize/modernize Aglianico. Unsuccessful. Grapey and stupid.
$18
Vinturi - slightly odd nose lacks lift. Deep, stewed black fruit initially. More vibrant with air - fig paste, ash, sexy spice action.
Deep and seems a bit sweet (?), with strong acidity tamping down any textural expansiveness. This is a strange one. A definite sense of some residual sugar and a dis-jointed acid contribution. Interesting attempt to commercialize/modernize Aglianico. Unsuccessful. Grapey and stupid.
$18
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Shaya, Verdejo "Old Vines" Rueda 2008
Platinum.
Bright, lifted nose that could very easily be mistaken for NZ SB - kiwi, cat piss/gooseberry, grapefruit zest, "mineral". But this is riper, deeper.
Ditto in the mouth. Great depth of fruit and opposing mineral cut. Another wine with a sugar/acid cage match. Better as the wine warms in the glass. FK.
Day 3 - Still hammering the glands. The Shaya that shagged me?
$14.
Bright, lifted nose that could very easily be mistaken for NZ SB - kiwi, cat piss/gooseberry, grapefruit zest, "mineral". But this is riper, deeper.
Ditto in the mouth. Great depth of fruit and opposing mineral cut. Another wine with a sugar/acid cage match. Better as the wine warms in the glass. FK.
Day 3 - Still hammering the glands. The Shaya that shagged me?
$14.
Palacios "Petalos" Bierzo 2007
Purple.
Vinturi - roasted herb, grilled sausage, earth and vague black fruit nose. Again, more than a bit suggestive of the northern Rhone.
Deep, full entry, with acid/wilted green edge cutting through. Think of this as a Spanish Cornas, only way cheaper. Intense and loaded. Gutsy, just lacks clarity and some complexity.
$18
Vinturi - roasted herb, grilled sausage, earth and vague black fruit nose. Again, more than a bit suggestive of the northern Rhone.
Deep, full entry, with acid/wilted green edge cutting through. Think of this as a Spanish Cornas, only way cheaper. Intense and loaded. Gutsy, just lacks clarity and some complexity.
$18
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Domaine Chiroulet "La Cote d'Heux" Cotes de Gascogne 2007
Straw.
Wild earth/petrol/mango nose.
Deep, sweet (textural?) impression of peach/mango/citrus balanced by strong acidity, and, yes, a "minerally" quality. The earth character repeats late. The wildest of these whites, but killer, and stupidly cheap, as well.
$12. Gros Manseng - yet another esoteric white variety from SW France. 14 months sur lie.
Wild earth/petrol/mango nose.
Deep, sweet (textural?) impression of peach/mango/citrus balanced by strong acidity, and, yes, a "minerally" quality. The earth character repeats late. The wildest of these whites, but killer, and stupidly cheap, as well.
$12. Gros Manseng - yet another esoteric white variety from SW France. 14 months sur lie.
Domaine de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) "Clos des Allees, Vieilles Vignes" Muscadet 2007
Straw.
Mineral/talc nose, imploded lemon and almond underneath.
Intense, linear, lemon zest and "mineral" flavors go start to finish. This rocks, in every sense of the word. Another killer, cheap, minerally white.
$17
Mineral/talc nose, imploded lemon and almond underneath.
Intense, linear, lemon zest and "mineral" flavors go start to finish. This rocks, in every sense of the word. Another killer, cheap, minerally white.
$17
Cantina del Taburno, Falanghina, Taburno (Italy) 2008
Light yellow.
Extremely attractive nose of sugared peach/apricot/pear and a light floral note.
Some residual sugar maintains the sweet fruit character in the mouth. Mineral/acid synergy eventually asserts itself. Sugar/acid cage match hammers the salivary glands. Hard to stop drinking this.
$14. Falanghina is an esoteric white variety. Budwood finally available in the US next year.
Extremely attractive nose of sugared peach/apricot/pear and a light floral note.
Some residual sugar maintains the sweet fruit character in the mouth. Mineral/acid synergy eventually asserts itself. Sugar/acid cage match hammers the salivary glands. Hard to stop drinking this.
$14. Falanghina is an esoteric white variety. Budwood finally available in the US next year.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Trinoro "Le Cupole" Rosso Toscana 2006
Red.
Vinturi - low-key, suave nose of hazelnut cream and red fruit.
Round and reasonably plush, with acidity moving in quickly. Considerable constriction in the finish, but slightly candied red fruit flavors ride through it. Not yet showing much complexity, but my last bottle of the '96 showed extremely well last year.
$28. A Bordeaux blend.
Vinturi - low-key, suave nose of hazelnut cream and red fruit.
Round and reasonably plush, with acidity moving in quickly. Considerable constriction in the finish, but slightly candied red fruit flavors ride through it. Not yet showing much complexity, but my last bottle of the '96 showed extremely well last year.
$28. A Bordeaux blend.
Bielsa, Garnacha, Vinas Viejas, Campo de Borja 2008
Bright purple/red.
Vinturi - bright, crushed black raspberry, earth, citrus/pepper nose.
Intensely citric in the mouth, with earth and herb undertones. Beaujolais substitute, with more weight and power. No fat, chewy and lean. Raspberry flavor kicks in late in the finish.
Day 4 - Even better now - nose is still bright, but deeper and shows some garrigue. Much more flesh in the mouth, though still has a citric underpinning. No doubt this will age very well (5-6 years). Thank God it has a real (not synthetic) cork. This rocks.
$11. Try this on Thanksgiving.
Vinturi - bright, crushed black raspberry, earth, citrus/pepper nose.
Intensely citric in the mouth, with earth and herb undertones. Beaujolais substitute, with more weight and power. No fat, chewy and lean. Raspberry flavor kicks in late in the finish.
Day 4 - Even better now - nose is still bright, but deeper and shows some garrigue. Much more flesh in the mouth, though still has a citric underpinning. No doubt this will age very well (5-6 years). Thank God it has a real (not synthetic) cork. This rocks.
$11. Try this on Thanksgiving.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Brumont, Gros Manseng - Sauvignon, Gascogne (France) 2007
Platinum/straw.
Nose of quince, baked apple, almond and spice. Hints of white peach, pear and lemon too. Wow and WTF?
Lemon grass flavor, intense and fleshy simultaneously. This has serious depth and length, forget about the stupid price. The Sauvignon delivers most of the flavor, but I'd suppose that the Gros Manseng adds flesh/depth. Subtle mineral chew on the finish. This rocks. Usually wines like this lose their "stuff" after a couple of years from vintage. This seems like it will drink quite well for at least another year (some residual CO2 keeping it lively), maybe several more.
$12 or less. From a great Madiran producer (Montus) who apparently loves the wines of Gascony.
Nose of quince, baked apple, almond and spice. Hints of white peach, pear and lemon too. Wow and WTF?
Lemon grass flavor, intense and fleshy simultaneously. This has serious depth and length, forget about the stupid price. The Sauvignon delivers most of the flavor, but I'd suppose that the Gros Manseng adds flesh/depth. Subtle mineral chew on the finish. This rocks. Usually wines like this lose their "stuff" after a couple of years from vintage. This seems like it will drink quite well for at least another year (some residual CO2 keeping it lively), maybe several more.
$12 or less. From a great Madiran producer (Montus) who apparently loves the wines of Gascony.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Pesquera, Ribera del Duero 2004
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - extremely attractive, sumptuous nose - earth/smoke/oak spice/grilled meat/custard/black pudding fruit. FK. Even some fresh herb action with air time.
Round and mouth-filling. Slightly saline. Great core of mid-palate fruit/flesh, whittled down slowly by acid/tannin synergy. Needs a few more years to give it up/express in the mouth. RFG.
$32
Vinturi - extremely attractive, sumptuous nose - earth/smoke/oak spice/grilled meat/custard/black pudding fruit. FK. Even some fresh herb action with air time.
Round and mouth-filling. Slightly saline. Great core of mid-palate fruit/flesh, whittled down slowly by acid/tannin synergy. Needs a few more years to give it up/express in the mouth. RFG.
$32
Monday, November 2, 2009
Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre 2007
Straw.
Nose of lime, grass and a "mineral" nuance. Hint of almond extract too.
Extremely zesty, bright, entry - lemon/lime/mineral chew. An attractive bell pepper note in the mid-palate. Citrus zest and flesh/mineral action drives through the bone dry finish. This is killer. Reminds me of the Grosset Riesling several days ago.
$18 Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Great deal.
Nose of lime, grass and a "mineral" nuance. Hint of almond extract too.
Extremely zesty, bright, entry - lemon/lime/mineral chew. An attractive bell pepper note in the mid-palate. Citrus zest and flesh/mineral action drives through the bone dry finish. This is killer. Reminds me of the Grosset Riesling several days ago.
$18 Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Great deal.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Domaine Courbis, Cornas "La Sabarotte" 2003
Purple, red rim.
Vinturi - absolutely loaded nose - think reduction sauce, only fresh. Deep, spicy, fig/date, earth.
Massively concentrated, with huge mid-palate fig/date flavor riding a monster wave of tannin. Unlike many other '03 northern Rhones, this shows no flavor gap. This is monster wine that works. TFK and absolutely thrilling action.
$60
Vinturi - absolutely loaded nose - think reduction sauce, only fresh. Deep, spicy, fig/date, earth.
Massively concentrated, with huge mid-palate fig/date flavor riding a monster wave of tannin. Unlike many other '03 northern Rhones, this shows no flavor gap. This is monster wine that works. TFK and absolutely thrilling action.
$60
Tatiarra "Cambrian" Shiraz, Heathcote (Australia) 2003
Bright purple/red.
Vinturi - fig paste, lifted herbs and oak spice nose. Vibrant. Savory meat and earth notes with air.
Intensely flavored middle-weight. No fat. This rocks - mid-palate flesh and simultaneous acid/tannin tension. Foodies will shoot a large biscuit over this. Not even close to maturity.
$40. From Ben Riggs and 500,000,000 year old soil. Not your "typical Aussie Shiraz".
Vinturi - fig paste, lifted herbs and oak spice nose. Vibrant. Savory meat and earth notes with air.
Intensely flavored middle-weight. No fat. This rocks - mid-palate flesh and simultaneous acid/tannin tension. Foodies will shoot a large biscuit over this. Not even close to maturity.
$40. From Ben Riggs and 500,000,000 year old soil. Not your "typical Aussie Shiraz".
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Domaine la Bouissiere, Gigondas 1999
Deep red/purple.
Vinturi - spicy/woodsy/savory action plus a citrus lift I don't remember getting in this wine previously. Really deep, delivering more and more with additional air time.
Deep, loaded and reasonably refined with a textural sweetness (cherry jam) that is immediately challenged by stem chew. This is just so killer.. Hated the stuff on release - hard as a brick. Some spicy ketchup action too. Another wine that may never die, despite being a "basic" release. Spicy chew .... Totally FK.
$22. Hilarious.
Vinturi - spicy/woodsy/savory action plus a citrus lift I don't remember getting in this wine previously. Really deep, delivering more and more with additional air time.
Deep, loaded and reasonably refined with a textural sweetness (cherry jam) that is immediately challenged by stem chew. This is just so killer.. Hated the stuff on release - hard as a brick. Some spicy ketchup action too. Another wine that may never die, despite being a "basic" release. Spicy chew .... Totally FK.
$22. Hilarious.
Chateau La Roque, Mourvedre, Vielles Vignes, Pic Saint Loup 1997
Red, some evolution.
Vinturi - game/earth/sausage, wilted greens, "wood" spice nose. Could be mistaken for a wild northern Rhone. More integrated with air.
Round and mouth-filling for a middle-weight. Flavors follow the nose, with less obvious brett influence. Acid/tannin/brett constriction maintains vigor. God only knows how long this thing will live - my last bottle.
$15? Can't remember. Stupid and PFG - still interesting and weird after 12 years. From a Frenchman named Jack. Aged in large foudres (oval oak "tanks") = very reductive.
Vinturi - game/earth/sausage, wilted greens, "wood" spice nose. Could be mistaken for a wild northern Rhone. More integrated with air.
Round and mouth-filling for a middle-weight. Flavors follow the nose, with less obvious brett influence. Acid/tannin/brett constriction maintains vigor. God only knows how long this thing will live - my last bottle.
$15? Can't remember. Stupid and PFG - still interesting and weird after 12 years. From a Frenchman named Jack. Aged in large foudres (oval oak "tanks") = very reductive.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Pax "Moriah" Sonoma County 2003
Deep red.
Vinturi - deep, saucy nose - spicy fig, meat drippings/gravy ... and not much else. Shows some heat.
Round, shows a slight textural sweetness, but then the typical grainy/saline structure of Pax kicks in. This really doesn't taste like a wine that's 69% Grenache. Totally shuts down in the finish. Very awkward at the moment.
$55. 69% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 3% Counoise, 1% Roussanne. 16.4% alcohol.
Vinturi - deep, saucy nose - spicy fig, meat drippings/gravy ... and not much else. Shows some heat.
Round, shows a slight textural sweetness, but then the typical grainy/saline structure of Pax kicks in. This really doesn't taste like a wine that's 69% Grenache. Totally shuts down in the finish. Very awkward at the moment.
$55. 69% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 3% Counoise, 1% Roussanne. 16.4% alcohol.
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Tardieu-Laurent, Cornas "Vieilles Vignes" 2000
Evolved, deep red.
Vinturi - outrageously killer smoked meat/breakfast sausage, wilted greens, fig paste, earth/oak spice, sumptuous, eminently edible nose. Dried floral action with air time.
Round middle-weight in the mouth, with earth, green "edge" and smoked meat repeating. Significant iron component in the finish. Way more complex and active than the Arietta, which seems dead in comparison.
$55
Vinturi - outrageously killer smoked meat/breakfast sausage, wilted greens, fig paste, earth/oak spice, sumptuous, eminently edible nose. Dried floral action with air time.
Round middle-weight in the mouth, with earth, green "edge" and smoked meat repeating. Significant iron component in the finish. Way more complex and active than the Arietta, which seems dead in comparison.
$55
Arietta "Variation One" Napa Valley 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - dense, plush, oak-influenced nose. Chocolate, fig and lifted oak spices.
Round and plush in the mouth also, with an acid/VA/tannin constriction that covers the front teeth. All about opulence - nothing complex about this. Which makes it pretty boring almost immediately. Might be better tomorrow.
$75. Merlot and Syrah.
Vinturi - dense, plush, oak-influenced nose. Chocolate, fig and lifted oak spices.
Round and plush in the mouth also, with an acid/VA/tannin constriction that covers the front teeth. All about opulence - nothing complex about this. Which makes it pretty boring almost immediately. Might be better tomorrow.
$75. Merlot and Syrah.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Domaine la Tour Vieille, Banyuls 1996
Red.
Discreet nose shows salt water taffy, spicy fig, earth, and sweet prune. Herbs and other interesting stuff with air.
Immediate, intense sweetness/voluptuousness. Just all over the place - sloppy - in the best sense of the term. Retains a nice acid backbone that keeps at least some of the clothing on. Long and reasonably refined. If this doesn't put a smile on your face, you're dead and should be paired with the Cayron Gigondas.
$25? Grenache-based dessert wine fortified on the skins. From a beautiful, rocky region in France just north of the Spanish border.
Discreet nose shows salt water taffy, spicy fig, earth, and sweet prune. Herbs and other interesting stuff with air.
Immediate, intense sweetness/voluptuousness. Just all over the place - sloppy - in the best sense of the term. Retains a nice acid backbone that keeps at least some of the clothing on. Long and reasonably refined. If this doesn't put a smile on your face, you're dead and should be paired with the Cayron Gigondas.
$25? Grenache-based dessert wine fortified on the skins. From a beautiful, rocky region in France just north of the Spanish border.
Domaine du Cayron, Gigondas 1999
Very deep red.
Vinturi - deep, dense nose - wilted/grilled herbs, blood/iron, savory meat, dried fig, earth/spice. Wild, killer.
Deep and extremely plush, with assertive tannin moving in late. Nose repeated in flavors that go the distance. Herbs and iron on the long, grainy finish. RFG. Needs something dead.
$25
Vinturi - deep, dense nose - wilted/grilled herbs, blood/iron, savory meat, dried fig, earth/spice. Wild, killer.
Deep and extremely plush, with assertive tannin moving in late. Nose repeated in flavors that go the distance. Herbs and iron on the long, grainy finish. RFG. Needs something dead.
$25
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd., St. Helena 2006
Purple/black.
Vinturi - wild nose - beef and green chile enchilada. Really want to eat this. Deep.
Round and sweet texturally, with sweet blackberry character and echoes of the enchilada action. Fairly strong acidity and plentiful, but fine, tannin do not kill flavor flow. Really loaded, with great purity. This will be fascinating in another 10 years. Need more of this stuff, too.
$75. Old vineyard thought to be mostly Syrah.
Vinturi - wild nose - beef and green chile enchilada. Really want to eat this. Deep.
Round and sweet texturally, with sweet blackberry character and echoes of the enchilada action. Fairly strong acidity and plentiful, but fine, tannin do not kill flavor flow. Really loaded, with great purity. This will be fascinating in another 10 years. Need more of this stuff, too.
$75. Old vineyard thought to be mostly Syrah.
Betts& Scholl, Hermitage Blanc 2004
Yellow.
"Thick" nose - almond extract, apple jelly.
Round, utterly mouth-filling, as only Marsanne-based wines can be. Deep, slightly chewy and extremely long. Ridiculously so.
Not a great deal of flavor complexity, but the depth and length are from an alternate universe. Retains a lifted character despite the density. Everyone yacks about Roussanne, but Marsanne is a keeper.
$55? Gift from DR. There's some undefined relationship between Betts and Chave here. Whatever. This stuff is RFG.
"Thick" nose - almond extract, apple jelly.
Round, utterly mouth-filling, as only Marsanne-based wines can be. Deep, slightly chewy and extremely long. Ridiculously so.
Not a great deal of flavor complexity, but the depth and length are from an alternate universe. Retains a lifted character despite the density. Everyone yacks about Roussanne, but Marsanne is a keeper.
$55? Gift from DR. There's some undefined relationship between Betts and Chave here. Whatever. This stuff is RFG.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1998
Red, light rim.
Vinturi - nut/earth/popcorn/cherry jam/intense spice/fig nose.
Round, with an earthy constriction (Mourvedre?) almost immediately. Interesting - fairly obvious battle between Grenache and Mourvedre (good and evil?) for dominance. Definitely not resolved. Yet. I'd guess this thing needs another 6-10 years just to reach maturity. I knew I shouldn't have opened this.
$45
Vinturi - nut/earth/popcorn/cherry jam/intense spice/fig nose.
Round, with an earthy constriction (Mourvedre?) almost immediately. Interesting - fairly obvious battle between Grenache and Mourvedre (good and evil?) for dominance. Definitely not resolved. Yet. I'd guess this thing needs another 6-10 years just to reach maturity. I knew I shouldn't have opened this.
$45
Albino Rocca, Brich Ronchi, Barbaresco 1998
Deep, evolved, red.
Vinturi - FK nose - cherry liqueur, toasted hazelnut, earth/truffle, ethereal spices.
Round and mouth-filling for a Nebbiolo-based wine. Intense cherry/spice/earth flavors also show a background citrus zest character, as well as the pungent "chew" that come with it. Still shows strong acid/tannin synergy that comes close to shutting down the mouth. But flavors ride through on a separate track. Wish I had a few more bottles of this.
$50
Vinturi - FK nose - cherry liqueur, toasted hazelnut, earth/truffle, ethereal spices.
Round and mouth-filling for a Nebbiolo-based wine. Intense cherry/spice/earth flavors also show a background citrus zest character, as well as the pungent "chew" that come with it. Still shows strong acid/tannin synergy that comes close to shutting down the mouth. But flavors ride through on a separate track. Wish I had a few more bottles of this.
$50
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Copain, Roussanne, James Berry, Paso Robles 2005
Yellow.
Buttered popcorn, almond extract, vanilla, poached peach aromatics.
Round and mouth-filling, with a sweetness of fruit/texture that plays off reasonably strong acidity and tannic/stony "chew". This builds incrementally. Nothing easy here, which makes it far more interesting. There's some orchard fruit, but this is really about rocks and (informed/great) winemaking technique.
$35
Buttered popcorn, almond extract, vanilla, poached peach aromatics.
Round and mouth-filling, with a sweetness of fruit/texture that plays off reasonably strong acidity and tannic/stony "chew". This builds incrementally. Nothing easy here, which makes it far more interesting. There's some orchard fruit, but this is really about rocks and (informed/great) winemaking technique.
$35
Grosset, Watervale, Riesling, Clare Valley 2004
Very light yellow.
Lime/lemon flesh, petrol, nutskin aromatics. "Fleshy" for a Grosset.
If dry Riesling has a sensual side, this is it. Racy, but expressive/slightly bodacious. Lingering citrus/mineral chew continues to pound the salivary glands through a seemingly endless, piercing, finish.
$25. Stupid value. Tin-lined screwcap.
Lime/lemon flesh, petrol, nutskin aromatics. "Fleshy" for a Grosset.
If dry Riesling has a sensual side, this is it. Racy, but expressive/slightly bodacious. Lingering citrus/mineral chew continues to pound the salivary glands through a seemingly endless, piercing, finish.
$25. Stupid value. Tin-lined screwcap.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Cuvee du Vatican, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001
Deep red/purple.
Vinturi - deep, low-toned, loaded nose - fig/black raspberry jam, earth/truffle/hazelnut. Savory, sumptuous, killer.
Round, plush and packed in the mouth. Deep black fruit character leavened by spicy stem/acid constriction. Way better than it should be for the price. I remember liking this far more than the '01 Sixtine, which was brutally structured on release.
$25? Stupid cheap.
Vinturi - deep, low-toned, loaded nose - fig/black raspberry jam, earth/truffle/hazelnut. Savory, sumptuous, killer.
Round, plush and packed in the mouth. Deep black fruit character leavened by spicy stem/acid constriction. Way better than it should be for the price. I remember liking this far more than the '01 Sixtine, which was brutally structured on release.
$25? Stupid cheap.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Muga "Seleccion Especial" Rioja 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - earth, coconut, custard, pepper, toasted nut aromatics. Completely integrated and extremely attractive.
Round and plush, with an edge of acidity that slowly asserts itself. A self-contained middle-weight, no sense that this is "trying". Chewy, spicy, peppery finish that ends with serious acid constriction. Needs animal fat/protein and roasted potatoes. Or cassoulet. Or ragout.
$25
Vinturi - earth, coconut, custard, pepper, toasted nut aromatics. Completely integrated and extremely attractive.
Round and plush, with an edge of acidity that slowly asserts itself. A self-contained middle-weight, no sense that this is "trying". Chewy, spicy, peppery finish that ends with serious acid constriction. Needs animal fat/protein and roasted potatoes. Or cassoulet. Or ragout.
$25
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 1999
Deep red, slight purple.
Vinturi - extremely attractive nose - toasted coconut, spicy black fruit, grilled meat, ground pepper. FK.
Round and mouth-filling, with a slight edge of acid-driven tannin. Huge mid-palate material/"plushness". Shows a bit of additional veg/custard complexity. Monasterio is almost always more complete than Sisseck's "Flor". Advantage of a blend, folks. Drink over the next 6-7 years.
$28 on release. Tempranillo and Cabernet/Merlot, maybe CF too.
Vinturi - extremely attractive nose - toasted coconut, spicy black fruit, grilled meat, ground pepper. FK.
Round and mouth-filling, with a slight edge of acid-driven tannin. Huge mid-palate material/"plushness". Shows a bit of additional veg/custard complexity. Monasterio is almost always more complete than Sisseck's "Flor". Advantage of a blend, folks. Drink over the next 6-7 years.
$28 on release. Tempranillo and Cabernet/Merlot, maybe CF too.
Sportoletti "Villa Fidelia" Rosso, Umbria 1999
Saturated purple/red.
Vinturi - moderate intensity, low-toned nose - toast, deep, spicy black fruit (fig, date, black raspberry coulis).
Suave, mouth-filling. Just enough vitality. Deep and rich with building acid/tannin synergy that does not shut down the mouth. PFG and likely to drink well for many more years.
$50 on release? Merlot and Cabernet? Can't remember.
Vinturi - moderate intensity, low-toned nose - toast, deep, spicy black fruit (fig, date, black raspberry coulis).
Suave, mouth-filling. Just enough vitality. Deep and rich with building acid/tannin synergy that does not shut down the mouth. PFG and likely to drink well for many more years.
$50 on release? Merlot and Cabernet? Can't remember.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Sine Qua Non "Raven #9" California Grenache 2006
Saturated red/purple.
Vinturi - savory oak/meat spice, dried fig, strawberry/raspberry, sumptuous nose.
Round and completely mouth-filling, with an unobtrusive, periphery of the mouth, acid-driven structure. Strawberry is the surprising fruit character here, subtle. I really didn't think much of this initially, but it wears well with time in the glass. Still, I can think of many wines from Spain and France that I'd rather drink for their density/blood, sweat and tears. Which is why I love Pax, for instance. Nothing poof-ball about those wines, love them or not.
$95
Vinturi - savory oak/meat spice, dried fig, strawberry/raspberry, sumptuous nose.
Round and completely mouth-filling, with an unobtrusive, periphery of the mouth, acid-driven structure. Strawberry is the surprising fruit character here, subtle. I really didn't think much of this initially, but it wears well with time in the glass. Still, I can think of many wines from Spain and France that I'd rather drink for their density/blood, sweat and tears. Which is why I love Pax, for instance. Nothing poof-ball about those wines, love them or not.
$95
Mogador 2005 Priorat (Spain)
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - saucy nose shows meat drippings, raspberry/blackberry coulis, earth and a hint of oak spice. Exceptional integration of what I'd assume is close to 100% new oak.
Round and mouth-filling, with a slight textural sweetness that is immediately tempered by a strong edge of acidity. Beautifully rendered and built for the long haul. The initial textural tension plays out through the finish. This needs at least another 5 years in the bottle.
$60
Vinturi - saucy nose shows meat drippings, raspberry/blackberry coulis, earth and a hint of oak spice. Exceptional integration of what I'd assume is close to 100% new oak.
Round and mouth-filling, with a slight textural sweetness that is immediately tempered by a strong edge of acidity. Beautifully rendered and built for the long haul. The initial textural tension plays out through the finish. This needs at least another 5 years in the bottle.
$60
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Copain "Callioux & Coccinelle" Syrah, Walla Walla 2004
Purple/red.
Vinturi - nose shows many similarities to the Pax, but finer/more nuanced. Bridges the Pax/T-L gap. Shows a bit of jalapeno.
Much brighter in the mouth than Pax, with a corresponding lack of that wine's depth. A great comparison, which adds another log, so to speak, to my "zero sum game" bonfire. But make no mistake, both of these wines are killer in their own way. Long finish dominated by stem contribution and orange zest flavors.
$45
Vinturi - nose shows many similarities to the Pax, but finer/more nuanced. Bridges the Pax/T-L gap. Shows a bit of jalapeno.
Much brighter in the mouth than Pax, with a corresponding lack of that wine's depth. A great comparison, which adds another log, so to speak, to my "zero sum game" bonfire. But make no mistake, both of these wines are killer in their own way. Long finish dominated by stem contribution and orange zest flavors.
$45
Pax "Griffin's Lair" Syrah 2004 (Sonoma Coast)
Opaque purple, slightly dull.
Vinturi - the usual crazy, primordial, nose - menthol/iodine, grilled meat, spicy fig, raspberry coulis, earth.
Round, mouth-filling and grainy. Not yet showing much fruit character in the mouth, but deep and loaded. No fat, no heat. Menthol/iodine flavor just keeps kicking. Stuck in the mouth. Chewy/grainy .
$45
Vinturi - the usual crazy, primordial, nose - menthol/iodine, grilled meat, spicy fig, raspberry coulis, earth.
Round, mouth-filling and grainy. Not yet showing much fruit character in the mouth, but deep and loaded. No fat, no heat. Menthol/iodine flavor just keeps kicking. Stuck in the mouth. Chewy/grainy .
$45
Tardieu-Laurent, Crozes-Hermitage "Vieilles Vignes" 2003
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - toasty oak, breakfast sausage, wilted herb, black fruit, spicy fig nose. Oak integrates very nicely with air.
Intense middle-weight in the mouth, with strong acidity (particularly for the vintage) driving flavors that mirror the nose. Nice mid-palate flesh, which many '03 northern Rhones lack. Finishes firmly tannic, with smoked meat and wilted herb flavors echoing. Very cool action.
$30
Vinturi - toasty oak, breakfast sausage, wilted herb, black fruit, spicy fig nose. Oak integrates very nicely with air.
Intense middle-weight in the mouth, with strong acidity (particularly for the vintage) driving flavors that mirror the nose. Nice mid-palate flesh, which many '03 northern Rhones lack. Finishes firmly tannic, with smoked meat and wilted herb flavors echoing. Very cool action.
$30
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Turley, Ueberroth Vyd., Paso Robles, Zinfandel 2005
Deepish, vibrant red.
Vinturi - cran/raspberry, earth/meal, oak spice and a hint of citrus on the nose.
Intense and a bit aggressive in the mouth. Pent up, with alcohol and reasonably high acidity/citric character killing any sense of harmony. My guess is that this needs a day or two to unwind. Usually my favorite Turley bottling.
Day 3 - And here it is. Very deep aromas of earth, raspberry sauce, dried fig and lifted oak(?) spice. Aromatic depth of a great Priorat. Round and seamless, with the citrus character from day 1 making this shockingly vibrant after the nose. Acidity is still strong, but showing far more depth/flesh to buffer it. FK, and nowhere near its peak.
$60 16% alcohol.
Vinturi - cran/raspberry, earth/meal, oak spice and a hint of citrus on the nose.
Intense and a bit aggressive in the mouth. Pent up, with alcohol and reasonably high acidity/citric character killing any sense of harmony. My guess is that this needs a day or two to unwind. Usually my favorite Turley bottling.
Day 3 - And here it is. Very deep aromas of earth, raspberry sauce, dried fig and lifted oak(?) spice. Aromatic depth of a great Priorat. Round and seamless, with the citrus character from day 1 making this shockingly vibrant after the nose. Acidity is still strong, but showing far more depth/flesh to buffer it. FK, and nowhere near its peak.
$60 16% alcohol.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Domaine W. Fevre "Cote Bouguerots" Bougros, Chablis 2002
Bright, light yellow.
Perfectly ripe pineapple, lime, smoke, mineral/earth and a hint of caramel on the nose. Discreet, very fine.
Caramel, lime flesh, mineral flavors are intense, reasonably fleshy and delineated. Also mouth-watering and FK. Mineral/lime flesh/caramel interaction keeps driving through the long, totally delicious, finish. Reminds me of great (dry) Riesling.
$50
Perfectly ripe pineapple, lime, smoke, mineral/earth and a hint of caramel on the nose. Discreet, very fine.
Caramel, lime flesh, mineral flavors are intense, reasonably fleshy and delineated. Also mouth-watering and FK. Mineral/lime flesh/caramel interaction keeps driving through the long, totally delicious, finish. Reminds me of great (dry) Riesling.
$50
Friday, September 25, 2009
P. Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - aromas of earth/truffle, roasted herbs, fig paste, prune and lifted spices.
Massive, building, palate impression. Round and packed. Huge mid-palate flesh ultimately whittled down to size by significant, side teeth-coating, acid/tannin synergy. Absolutely no primary fruit here, thus useless pool-side. But if you've got a cup of hot fat in front of you, or a lamb shank, you're in luck.
$75
Vinturi - aromas of earth/truffle, roasted herbs, fig paste, prune and lifted spices.
Massive, building, palate impression. Round and packed. Huge mid-palate flesh ultimately whittled down to size by significant, side teeth-coating, acid/tannin synergy. Absolutely no primary fruit here, thus useless pool-side. But if you've got a cup of hot fat in front of you, or a lamb shank, you're in luck.
$75
Gourt de Mautens, Rasteau 2001
Deep red, some rim evolution.
Vinturi - earth, toast, fragrant spices, raspberry/hazelnut sauce on the nose. This doesn't remind me of the southern Rhone. On the other hand, neither do the wines from Soumade.
Much less extracted than earlier vintages, also (seemingly) less ripe, with strong acidity. Pretty bound up at present. Shows some sulfide chew that adds to the impression of austerity. Eventually cranberry and hints of citrus emerge. No idea where this is going.
$45
Vinturi - earth, toast, fragrant spices, raspberry/hazelnut sauce on the nose. This doesn't remind me of the southern Rhone. On the other hand, neither do the wines from Soumade.
Much less extracted than earlier vintages, also (seemingly) less ripe, with strong acidity. Pretty bound up at present. Shows some sulfide chew that adds to the impression of austerity. Eventually cranberry and hints of citrus emerge. No idea where this is going.
$45
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 1998 Bandol
Deep red.
Vinturi - similar to the Longue Garde, only better integrated - salami, wilted herb, earth, spicy fig.
Round, mouth-filling, middle-weight. Nice flesh through the mid-palate and finish, where slight acid/tannin synergy pops up. This also reminds me of "traditional" (no new oak) Cote Rotie. "Tradition" always a question of how far back you wish to go... Wandering off-subject. These wines really need food - and real food needs them. Co-dependent?
$35
Vinturi - similar to the Longue Garde, only better integrated - salami, wilted herb, earth, spicy fig.
Round, mouth-filling, middle-weight. Nice flesh through the mid-palate and finish, where slight acid/tannin synergy pops up. This also reminds me of "traditional" (no new oak) Cote Rotie. "Tradition" always a question of how far back you wish to go... Wandering off-subject. These wines really need food - and real food needs them. Co-dependent?
$35
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Bastide Blanche "Longue Garde" 1998 Bandol
Opaque red.
Vinturi - ah, a wild one - salami, earth, fig, all sorts of spices and even some cocoa. Despite the obvious brett influence, this is deep, well-integrated (now) and extremely interesting. Still can't figure out exactly what's going on.
Round, edge-less. Deeply flavored, but treads lightly. Smoky bacon and wilted herb action in the mouth reminds me of the Roasted Slope. This goes start to finish. A bit of light chew in the finish. Distinctive and FK.
$30 Based on Mourvedre
Vinturi - ah, a wild one - salami, earth, fig, all sorts of spices and even some cocoa. Despite the obvious brett influence, this is deep, well-integrated (now) and extremely interesting. Still can't figure out exactly what's going on.
Round, edge-less. Deeply flavored, but treads lightly. Smoky bacon and wilted herb action in the mouth reminds me of the Roasted Slope. This goes start to finish. A bit of light chew in the finish. Distinctive and FK.
$30 Based on Mourvedre
Monday, September 21, 2009
Dona Paula "Seleccion de Bodega" Malbec, Mendoza 2005
Purple/red.
Vinturi - earth, oak spice/toast, meat drippings on the nose. Black fruit underneath. Well-integrated.
Round and a bit sweet in the mouth - reminds me of Shiraz - as does the deep black raspberry fruit character. Acidity provides most of the structural support, which dominates the mid-palate and finish. Tightly wound and not particularly enjoyable at the moment.. Needs several years. Or some lamb and roasted potatoes.
$45
Vinturi - earth, oak spice/toast, meat drippings on the nose. Black fruit underneath. Well-integrated.
Round and a bit sweet in the mouth - reminds me of Shiraz - as does the deep black raspberry fruit character. Acidity provides most of the structural support, which dominates the mid-palate and finish. Tightly wound and not particularly enjoyable at the moment.. Needs several years. Or some lamb and roasted potatoes.
$45
Lone Madrone, Tannat, Paso Robles 2005
Opaque purple.
Vinturi - very deep, saucy, black fruit, earth/meat/spice nose. PFG.
Round, plush entry, then some heat in the mid-palate. Very deep, concentrated. Gets a bit chewy on the finish, with slightly aggressive tannin hitting the upper teeth/gums. But nothing crazy. Interestingly, this reminds me more of Paso Robles than anything else.
Tannat is an esoteric red variety from the Madiran region of France. Lone Madrone is owned by Neal Collins, winemaker at Tablas Creek.
$45? Gift. Opened yesterday
Vinturi - very deep, saucy, black fruit, earth/meat/spice nose. PFG.
Round, plush entry, then some heat in the mid-palate. Very deep, concentrated. Gets a bit chewy on the finish, with slightly aggressive tannin hitting the upper teeth/gums. But nothing crazy. Interestingly, this reminds me more of Paso Robles than anything else.
Tannat is an esoteric red variety from the Madiran region of France. Lone Madrone is owned by Neal Collins, winemaker at Tablas Creek.
$45? Gift. Opened yesterday
Friday, September 18, 2009
Dos Victorias "Gran Elias Mora" Toro 2001
Saturated red/purple.
Vinturi - earth/hazelnut/black fruit custard/oak spice nose.
Intense and linear in the mouth. Spicy black fruit echoes. Major acid/tannin synergy, but nothing like 4-5 years ago. Now showing some subtle flavor complexity in the finish. No way this acid is "natural", and I still wonder if this will ever sing. Age-ability - what price do you pay for it (producer and consumer). Is it worth it?
$50 Opened yesterday.
Vinturi - earth/hazelnut/black fruit custard/oak spice nose.
Intense and linear in the mouth. Spicy black fruit echoes. Major acid/tannin synergy, but nothing like 4-5 years ago. Now showing some subtle flavor complexity in the finish. No way this acid is "natural", and I still wonder if this will ever sing. Age-ability - what price do you pay for it (producer and consumer). Is it worth it?
$50 Opened yesterday.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Domaine de la Mordoree "La Reine des Bois" Lirac 2005
Opaque purple.
Vinturi - extremely deep, loaded nose - shoe polish, fig/date paste, spice. Has lift, too.
Deep, extremely concentrated and plush. Blackberry and black raspberry coulis, clay/earth and spice. Deep, remarkably so, and chewy on the finish. A hugely deep, reasonably fresh wine that only lacks precision and complexity. For the money, it is a stupid value. This will probably gain some ground with cellar time.
$20?
Vinturi - extremely deep, loaded nose - shoe polish, fig/date paste, spice. Has lift, too.
Deep, extremely concentrated and plush. Blackberry and black raspberry coulis, clay/earth and spice. Deep, remarkably so, and chewy on the finish. A hugely deep, reasonably fresh wine that only lacks precision and complexity. For the money, it is a stupid value. This will probably gain some ground with cellar time.
$20?
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2006 Bandol
Purple.
Vinturi - deep, spicy black and blue fruit, cinnamon, earth nose. Extremely attractive action.
Deep, but less dense and more fine than the '05 Fontanieu in the mouth. Really driven by its acidity, which bolsters the tannic clout. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume", with fairly serious acid/tannin constriction in the finish. An excellent bottle as well, but quite different in style (is it the vintage or the vineyard? or both?). Both are definitely worth buying and cellaring for 6-10 years.
$28
Vinturi - deep, spicy black and blue fruit, cinnamon, earth nose. Extremely attractive action.
Deep, but less dense and more fine than the '05 Fontanieu in the mouth. Really driven by its acidity, which bolsters the tannic clout. Tanzer's "inner-mouth perfume", with fairly serious acid/tannin constriction in the finish. An excellent bottle as well, but quite different in style (is it the vintage or the vineyard? or both?). Both are definitely worth buying and cellaring for 6-10 years.
$28
Bastide Blanche, Cuvee Fontanieu, 2005 Bandol
Purple.
Vinturi - iodine/menthol, clay/earth, spicy fig, blackberry, pepper nose. Deep, nuanced.
Round and densely packed in the mouth, with typical grainy, tannic constriction. Really nice mid-palate "stuffing" keeps this chugging along, start to finish. Needs more bottle time to show flavor complexity. No hard edges, no heat. Long, moderately tannic finish.
$28. Major deal. 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Vinturi - iodine/menthol, clay/earth, spicy fig, blackberry, pepper nose. Deep, nuanced.
Round and densely packed in the mouth, with typical grainy, tannic constriction. Really nice mid-palate "stuffing" keeps this chugging along, start to finish. Needs more bottle time to show flavor complexity. No hard edges, no heat. Long, moderately tannic finish.
$28. Major deal. 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Chante Cigale "Vieilles Vignes" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005
Deep red.
Vinturi - vibrant, lifted, intense nose - resinous herbs, earth/nut, raspberry, cherry liqueur.
Intense garrigue flavor, and grip, immediately. No question this includes some serious stem action. The nose suggested no fat, confirmed in the mouth. Lean, chewy, intense and aggressive. But not brutal. Old school. Thank God some people still do this. More open and interesting with several more years in the bottle. I'd guess this will drink well through 2020, at least.
$45
Vinturi - vibrant, lifted, intense nose - resinous herbs, earth/nut, raspberry, cherry liqueur.
Intense garrigue flavor, and grip, immediately. No question this includes some serious stem action. The nose suggested no fat, confirmed in the mouth. Lean, chewy, intense and aggressive. But not brutal. Old school. Thank God some people still do this. More open and interesting with several more years in the bottle. I'd guess this will drink well through 2020, at least.
$45
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Greenock Creek "Cornerstone" Grenache, Barossa Valley 2002
Red.
Earth/nut and raspberry jam on the deep nose. Some (oak?) spice and hazelnut action too.
Hugely sweet in the mouth, and a bit high-toned with alcohol. But this resolves itself pretty well. Raspberry liqueur/sauce. No complexity to speak of. Acid dominant structure is relatively mild, but really doesn't "fit". This is a pretty good example of what folks in the Rhone need not fear. I wonder why no great Chateauneuf producer has followed Chapoutier to the land of Oz? Chapoutier said at an HdR seminar years ago that he was importing (very old) Aussie Grenache budwood, as it was pre-phylloxera. What could the Ferauds or Avrils do with a 80-100 year old Grenache in Australia? Maybe Chester Osborn is already working with one of them.
Day 2 - Well, after all my BS, this is tasting far better today. Much deeper, more plush in the mouth with acidity less abrasive. Clearly, the raw materials were stellar. But I would still love to see a wine made by an Avril from the same fruit.
$55
Earth/nut and raspberry jam on the deep nose. Some (oak?) spice and hazelnut action too.
Hugely sweet in the mouth, and a bit high-toned with alcohol. But this resolves itself pretty well. Raspberry liqueur/sauce. No complexity to speak of. Acid dominant structure is relatively mild, but really doesn't "fit". This is a pretty good example of what folks in the Rhone need not fear. I wonder why no great Chateauneuf producer has followed Chapoutier to the land of Oz? Chapoutier said at an HdR seminar years ago that he was importing (very old) Aussie Grenache budwood, as it was pre-phylloxera. What could the Ferauds or Avrils do with a 80-100 year old Grenache in Australia? Maybe Chester Osborn is already working with one of them.
Day 2 - Well, after all my BS, this is tasting far better today. Much deeper, more plush in the mouth with acidity less abrasive. Clearly, the raw materials were stellar. But I would still love to see a wine made by an Avril from the same fruit.
$55
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Two Hands "Bella's Garden" Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2003
Opaque red/purple.
Vinturi - deep nose - dried fig, oak spice/savory meat/reduction sauce, black raspberry, graham cracker.
Round, sweet and plush in the mouth. Shows a saline character also. Easy to enjoy, from any perspective, as this has the deep, plush fruit that New World winos love. But this also has nice acid/tannin synergy that keeps "one foot on the floor". Sure to satisfy any conservative wine aficionado. PFG and should drink well for years.
$50
Vinturi - deep nose - dried fig, oak spice/savory meat/reduction sauce, black raspberry, graham cracker.
Round, sweet and plush in the mouth. Shows a saline character also. Easy to enjoy, from any perspective, as this has the deep, plush fruit that New World winos love. But this also has nice acid/tannin synergy that keeps "one foot on the floor". Sure to satisfy any conservative wine aficionado. PFG and should drink well for years.
$50
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Ciacci Piccolomini "Fabius" (Syrah) Sant'Antimo 2001
Deep red/purple.
Vinturi - nose of toasty oak, char/oak spice/grilled meat, with a pool of blackberry coulis and hazelnut underneath. More subtle than it sounds, getting better with air time.
Subdued in the mouth, probably due to oak load. Deep and mildly chewy, but has no lift. Better with meat, but this could use a shot of Viognier (or Malvasia). Or a hell of a lot less toasty oak.
$50
Vinturi - nose of toasty oak, char/oak spice/grilled meat, with a pool of blackberry coulis and hazelnut underneath. More subtle than it sounds, getting better with air time.
Subdued in the mouth, probably due to oak load. Deep and mildly chewy, but has no lift. Better with meat, but this could use a shot of Viognier (or Malvasia). Or a hell of a lot less toasty oak.
$50
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Hirtzberger, Gruner Veltliner, Honivogl, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)
Bright yellow.
Spicy, slightly pungent nose of lentil, pepper, jellied white fruit, grapefruit flesh.
Deep, with significant sweetness in the mouth. Pungent pepper/lentil flavors. Quite concentrated/dense but pungent, chewy character adds real cut to balance the sweet/fat richness. I think there's residual CO2 also. Long. There really isn't anything else like this.
$40
Spicy, slightly pungent nose of lentil, pepper, jellied white fruit, grapefruit flesh.
Deep, with significant sweetness in the mouth. Pungent pepper/lentil flavors. Quite concentrated/dense but pungent, chewy character adds real cut to balance the sweet/fat richness. I think there's residual CO2 also. Long. There really isn't anything else like this.
$40
Friday, September 4, 2009
Clarendon Hills, Roma's, Grenache 2002
Purple/red.
Nose of Chambord, salt water taffy, juniper, dried fig, toasted nut. Deep, confectionary (in a positive sense).
Round and sweet, texturally speaking. Not wildly complex - but gets extra credit for purity, seamlessness and flat out intensity. Not as flamboyant as it was a couple of years ago. But the saline action makes me wonder if this doesn't have something up its sleeve.
$70
Nose of Chambord, salt water taffy, juniper, dried fig, toasted nut. Deep, confectionary (in a positive sense).
Round and sweet, texturally speaking. Not wildly complex - but gets extra credit for purity, seamlessness and flat out intensity. Not as flamboyant as it was a couple of years ago. But the saline action makes me wonder if this doesn't have something up its sleeve.
$70
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2002
Red, some evolution.
Killer, deep, sumptuous nose - cherry sauce, hazelnut, herbs/underbrush. Shows some VA lift/spice.
Round and sensual, with nose repeated in flavor. It's interesting that a woman made this. And that Burgundy bottles are shaped as they are. Absolutely delicious - something you want to "eat". Not complex in the usual sense of the word, but the textural/flavor synergy here is mind-boggling.
$75
Killer, deep, sumptuous nose - cherry sauce, hazelnut, herbs/underbrush. Shows some VA lift/spice.
Round and sensual, with nose repeated in flavor. It's interesting that a woman made this. And that Burgundy bottles are shaped as they are. Absolutely delicious - something you want to "eat". Not complex in the usual sense of the word, but the textural/flavor synergy here is mind-boggling.
$75
Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2002
Light yellow.
Moderate intensity nose of buttered popcorn, truffle, pear, lemon, sulfide, petrol, caramel.
Extremely refined for the richness here. Understated, but with the usual uber-fat/concentration. Not sure how to describe
this, but the whole mouth is coated in caramelized pear, lemon, mineral and sulfide flavor/chew which is not aggressive.
$120. 14.3% alcohol.
Moderate intensity nose of buttered popcorn, truffle, pear, lemon, sulfide, petrol, caramel.
Extremely refined for the richness here. Understated, but with the usual uber-fat/concentration. Not sure how to describe
this, but the whole mouth is coated in caramelized pear, lemon, mineral and sulfide flavor/chew which is not aggressive.
$120. 14.3% alcohol.
Maurodos "San Roman" Toro 2000
Red/purple.
Vinturi - grilled meat, coconut, black fruit custard/pastry, oak spice nose.
Round initial impression, increasingly constricted by acid/tannin synergy, like a thumbscrew, as we move through the wine. Nice red and black fruit action until the mouth shuts down in the finish. Needs food, animal protein and fat, in the worst way.
$35
Vinturi - grilled meat, coconut, black fruit custard/pastry, oak spice nose.
Round initial impression, increasingly constricted by acid/tannin synergy, like a thumbscrew, as we move through the wine. Nice red and black fruit action until the mouth shuts down in the finish. Needs food, animal protein and fat, in the worst way.
$35
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Allegrini, Amarone, 1998
Deep red, slight evolution.
Vinturi - truffle/earth/smoke/cherry jam/dried fig/spice aromas. Understated, self-contained.
Huge initial volume in the mouth, creamy, suave. Light acid/tannin synergy. No heat. All aromatic action repeated in flavor. This is FK, but not because of its size. Seamless, integrated, subtle. Long.
Day 4 - Chocolate-covered cherry (vivid)/truffle/earth/smoke nose. Huge mouth presence, great density and relative refinement. This rocks and shows no sign that it is at its peak. This really is FK.
$50
Vinturi - truffle/earth/smoke/cherry jam/dried fig/spice aromas. Understated, self-contained.
Huge initial volume in the mouth, creamy, suave. Light acid/tannin synergy. No heat. All aromatic action repeated in flavor. This is FK, but not because of its size. Seamless, integrated, subtle. Long.
Day 4 - Chocolate-covered cherry (vivid)/truffle/earth/smoke nose. Huge mouth presence, great density and relative refinement. This rocks and shows no sign that it is at its peak. This really is FK.
$50
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Cordier "Terroirs Rares" Pouilly-Fuisse' 2004
Yellow.
Nut/earth/light buttered popcorn/poached pear nose.
Deep, nicely layered wine. Mineral/caramel/lemon flavors brought to life by an acid edge that slowly reveals itself. Ultimately vibrant and relatively rich, with lime/caramel finishing flavors. Grows on you. RGS.
$26 Deal?
Nut/earth/light buttered popcorn/poached pear nose.
Deep, nicely layered wine. Mineral/caramel/lemon flavors brought to life by an acid edge that slowly reveals itself. Ultimately vibrant and relatively rich, with lime/caramel finishing flavors. Grows on you. RGS.
$26 Deal?
Monday, August 31, 2009
Pegau, Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Evolved red.
Vinturi - crazy, old-school, CdP nose - spicy ketchup, garrigue, oak spice (but there isn't any), wilted herbs, wood smoke ...
All of this in a lifted, seamless, killer package.
Huge impact in the mouth, just all over the place, with some serious chew as a tether to earth. Shows a bit of alcohol. But who cares. This delivers (some of) the goods now, even though it still needs time in the bottle. Stem chew on and on. You have to love this kind of CdP. Loaded, interesting, butt-naked.
$50 on release. Mostly Grenache.
Vinturi - crazy, old-school, CdP nose - spicy ketchup, garrigue, oak spice (but there isn't any), wilted herbs, wood smoke ...
All of this in a lifted, seamless, killer package.
Huge impact in the mouth, just all over the place, with some serious chew as a tether to earth. Shows a bit of alcohol. But who cares. This delivers (some of) the goods now, even though it still needs time in the bottle. Stem chew on and on. You have to love this kind of CdP. Loaded, interesting, butt-naked.
$50 on release. Mostly Grenache.
Grand Veneur, Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Origines" 2001
Red/purple.
Vinturi - deep, aromatic nose shows oak spice influence, but also deep black fruit and clay/earth.
Deep and loaded in the mouth, with a plush fruit/earth mid-palate that reminds me of Clos St. Jean (basic). This works from start to finish, with slightly aggressive acid/tannin synergy showing late. This doesn't taste like an 8 year old bottle of CdP. Ultimately not wildly complex, but there are more than a few folks that will love the overall impression.
$25 on release, I think. 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah.
Vinturi - deep, aromatic nose shows oak spice influence, but also deep black fruit and clay/earth.
Deep and loaded in the mouth, with a plush fruit/earth mid-palate that reminds me of Clos St. Jean (basic). This works from start to finish, with slightly aggressive acid/tannin synergy showing late. This doesn't taste like an 8 year old bottle of CdP. Ultimately not wildly complex, but there are more than a few folks that will love the overall impression.
$25 on release, I think. 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah.
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Palacios "Petalos" 2006 (Bierzo, Spain)
Purple/red.
Vinturi - deep earth/spice/iodine/blackberry nose.
Intense middle-weight - earth/spice flavors. Shows a sour/green character in the mouth. Reminds me of Cote Rotie in that sense. Acid/tannin synergy coats the front teeth in chew. Densely packed/structured, but will it express? Saline feel on the finish.
$18
Vinturi - deep earth/spice/iodine/blackberry nose.
Intense middle-weight - earth/spice flavors. Shows a sour/green character in the mouth. Reminds me of Cote Rotie in that sense. Acid/tannin synergy coats the front teeth in chew. Densely packed/structured, but will it express? Saline feel on the finish.
$18
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Monte Bernardi "Sa'Etta" Colli della Toscana Centrale 1999
Deep, youthful, red.
Vinturi - reticent nose shows hints of savory meat/drippings, white pepper, red fruit coulis, hazelnut.
Intense middle-weight. Plush red fruit (cherry/cranberry) immediately tempered by strong acidity. This dynamic plays out all the way through the finish. Not wildly complex, but nuanced and pure. Invigorating. Pinot folks, particularly Burgundy freaks, will like this quite a bit.
Day 2 - even deeper, savory nose, with a solid core of red fruit. This reminds me of a Marcassin Pinot. Killer. Now showing this savory character in the mouth, too. Still has vibrant, acid-driven, red fruit liqueur/mineral flavor. For all the Sangiovese doubters out there.
$50 on release. Single vineyard, old-vine Sangiovese
Vinturi - reticent nose shows hints of savory meat/drippings, white pepper, red fruit coulis, hazelnut.
Intense middle-weight. Plush red fruit (cherry/cranberry) immediately tempered by strong acidity. This dynamic plays out all the way through the finish. Not wildly complex, but nuanced and pure. Invigorating. Pinot folks, particularly Burgundy freaks, will like this quite a bit.
Day 2 - even deeper, savory nose, with a solid core of red fruit. This reminds me of a Marcassin Pinot. Killer. Now showing this savory character in the mouth, too. Still has vibrant, acid-driven, red fruit liqueur/mineral flavor. For all the Sangiovese doubters out there.
$50 on release. Single vineyard, old-vine Sangiovese
Ciacci Piccolomini "Ateo" Rosso Toscano 1999
Deep red.
Vinturi - very attractive nose - suave smoky oak, baking spices, black fruit, charcoal/brick, red cherry.
Round and fairly dense, with an edge of red fruit/acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Tannin kicks in as well in the mid-palate. Nice fruit character and an iron/clay/earth nuance. Still constricted and chewy in the finish. I thought this might be nearing its end. Not at all.
$25 on release. Sangiovese and Cabernet, I believe.
Vinturi - very attractive nose - suave smoky oak, baking spices, black fruit, charcoal/brick, red cherry.
Round and fairly dense, with an edge of red fruit/acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Tannin kicks in as well in the mid-palate. Nice fruit character and an iron/clay/earth nuance. Still constricted and chewy in the finish. I thought this might be nearing its end. Not at all.
$25 on release. Sangiovese and Cabernet, I believe.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Domaine du Mas Blanc "La Coume" Rimage, Banyuls 2001
Deep red.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, balsa, Chambord, celery salt, prune/raisin aromas. An aromatic bonefest - integrated, self-contained (no heat).
Round, deep, sweet and plush - initially. Then significant acidity and moderate tannin shut down any overt sense of sweetness. Very much in the style of a great late harvest Zinfandel. Finishes "dry" with chew hitting the front teeth. "Do" this with cheese or on its own.
$30. 375ml. Purchased years ago. Incredibly saline then, ridiculously, un-enjoyably so. The '94 version sold me on the idea of fortification on the skins, and Banyuls in general.
Vinturi - salt water taffy, balsa, Chambord, celery salt, prune/raisin aromas. An aromatic bonefest - integrated, self-contained (no heat).
Round, deep, sweet and plush - initially. Then significant acidity and moderate tannin shut down any overt sense of sweetness. Very much in the style of a great late harvest Zinfandel. Finishes "dry" with chew hitting the front teeth. "Do" this with cheese or on its own.
$30. 375ml. Purchased years ago. Incredibly saline then, ridiculously, un-enjoyably so. The '94 version sold me on the idea of fortification on the skins, and Banyuls in general.
Chateau Pipeau, St. Emilion 2003
Dep red.
Vinturi - mouthwatering nose - smoky oak/grilled meat/drippings/mint/black raspberry sauce.
Intense in the mouth, with deep black fruit and Bordeaux herb flavors. Intensely structured as well - showing no fat or "give" of any kind. But flavors ride through all the constriction. Tannin is a bit aggressive and may never fully harmonize. Still, this is nicely concentrated and needs more time.
$40? Gift from Mr. Hamilton
Vinturi - mouthwatering nose - smoky oak/grilled meat/drippings/mint/black raspberry sauce.
Intense in the mouth, with deep black fruit and Bordeaux herb flavors. Intensely structured as well - showing no fat or "give" of any kind. But flavors ride through all the constriction. Tannin is a bit aggressive and may never fully harmonize. Still, this is nicely concentrated and needs more time.
$40? Gift from Mr. Hamilton
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Domaine du Caillou "Les Quartz" Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Deep, youthful, red.
Vinturi - another great nose - deep cherry/raspberry jelly, suave oak/hazelnut. Hints of iron and garrigue. Seductive, pure.
Round, seamless, with Grenache-y "sweetness". Completely sexy with relatively strong acidity adding backbone. I suppose this is a perfect example of what others call "sugar/acid balance". Also a perfect example of CdP made by someone who loved Burgundy. The late JL Vacheron was one hell of a winemaker.
$60
Vinturi - another great nose - deep cherry/raspberry jelly, suave oak/hazelnut. Hints of iron and garrigue. Seductive, pure.
Round, seamless, with Grenache-y "sweetness". Completely sexy with relatively strong acidity adding backbone. I suppose this is a perfect example of what others call "sugar/acid balance". Also a perfect example of CdP made by someone who loved Burgundy. The late JL Vacheron was one hell of a winemaker.
$60
Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2000
Dull red.
Great integrated nose - spicy red cherry, mint, charred meat, hazelnut/earth/cinnamon and even a hint of the sea.
Round, plush and vibrant. Still quite structured with an edge of acidity (VA enhanced) and cinnamon tannin. No problem sitting on this for several years. Not giving it up just yet/playing hard to get.
$125
Great integrated nose - spicy red cherry, mint, charred meat, hazelnut/earth/cinnamon and even a hint of the sea.
Round, plush and vibrant. Still quite structured with an edge of acidity (VA enhanced) and cinnamon tannin. No problem sitting on this for several years. Not giving it up just yet/playing hard to get.
$125
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Domaine de la Janasse "Chaupin" Chateuaneuf du Pape 2003
Deep red.
Vinturi - deep, plush nose. Plum/prune/fig/nut sauce/black raspberry coulis.
Round, intense and abrasive in the mouth, with alcohol peeking out in the mid-palate. This is loaded, huge, but I can't enjoy it. Like the CdP, this shows an edge of acidity that kills any pleasure.
Interesting, I expected to love this stuff. Best to sit on the '03s for several years?
Day 4 - There's a cooked/stewed tomato aspect to the nose that bugs me. This is still alcoholic and abrasive. Hopefully this is a whacked bottle, but there was no indication of heat damage.
$50
Vinturi - deep, plush nose. Plum/prune/fig/nut sauce/black raspberry coulis.
Round, intense and abrasive in the mouth, with alcohol peeking out in the mid-palate. This is loaded, huge, but I can't enjoy it. Like the CdP, this shows an edge of acidity that kills any pleasure.
Interesting, I expected to love this stuff. Best to sit on the '03s for several years?
Day 4 - There's a cooked/stewed tomato aspect to the nose that bugs me. This is still alcoholic and abrasive. Hopefully this is a whacked bottle, but there was no indication of heat damage.
$50
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2003
Red, some evolution.
Vinturi - integrated, harmonious nose - cherry jam/garrigue/iron/savory meat/hazelnut/spices.
Then a bit dis-jointed in the mouth. Acid and alcohol out of whack, adding an abrasive edge. Nice depth and mid-palate flesh, but currently not up to the structural load. Needs time, maybe lots of it.
Day 4 - Nose is now incredible. Seamless, savory with everything from day 1. As might be expected, way better in the mouth too. Showing just a slight edge now, with full-on mid-palate flesh and cherry jam, spice and garrigue flavors. Acid/tannin synergy is still fairly strong on the finish. I don't think I'd touch this for at least 5-6 years, maybe 10-12.
$65
Vinturi - integrated, harmonious nose - cherry jam/garrigue/iron/savory meat/hazelnut/spices.
Then a bit dis-jointed in the mouth. Acid and alcohol out of whack, adding an abrasive edge. Nice depth and mid-palate flesh, but currently not up to the structural load. Needs time, maybe lots of it.
Day 4 - Nose is now incredible. Seamless, savory with everything from day 1. As might be expected, way better in the mouth too. Showing just a slight edge now, with full-on mid-palate flesh and cherry jam, spice and garrigue flavors. Acid/tannin synergy is still fairly strong on the finish. I don't think I'd touch this for at least 5-6 years, maybe 10-12.
$65
Hirtzberger, Riesling, Hochrain, Smaragd 2004 (Austria)
Light yellow.
Nose of wax, jellied white fruit, grapefruit marmalade. Hints of pepper and spice.
Intense - with high-pitched grapefruit zest flavor and a deep, low-toned earth (lentil?) character. RS adds volume and length with no overt sense of sweetness. Really chewy/bracing from the mid-palate through the finish. There's some residual CO2 here that also adds backbone.
$40
Nose of wax, jellied white fruit, grapefruit marmalade. Hints of pepper and spice.
Intense - with high-pitched grapefruit zest flavor and a deep, low-toned earth (lentil?) character. RS adds volume and length with no overt sense of sweetness. Really chewy/bracing from the mid-palate through the finish. There's some residual CO2 here that also adds backbone.
$40
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Marcassin "Three Sisters" Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2001
Light yellow. Slight haze.
Caramel/truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion/lemon/mint nose.
Round, extremely concentrated, almost thick. At the same time, this has real lift in the finish, thanks to strong acidity/sulfide synergy. Lemon flavor really kicks in, too, as does creme caramel. Dry dessert wine? Huge length.
$75
Caramel/truffle/sulfide/sauteed onion/lemon/mint nose.
Round, extremely concentrated, almost thick. At the same time, this has real lift in the finish, thanks to strong acidity/sulfide synergy. Lemon flavor really kicks in, too, as does creme caramel. Dry dessert wine? Huge length.
$75
Monday, August 10, 2009
Colosi, Nero d'Avola, Sicily 2008
Purple/red.
No vinturi - synthetic cork - baked earth/raspberry/brown spices/exotic fruit (mango?). Nice depth and lift.
Round and plush, with a well-hidden edge of acidity keeping everything in line. It must be the exotic yellow fruit character that reminds me of something from the south of France. Interesting, extremely tasty and cheap - just what the doctor ordered. Drink it over the next two to three years.
$16
No vinturi - synthetic cork - baked earth/raspberry/brown spices/exotic fruit (mango?). Nice depth and lift.
Round and plush, with a well-hidden edge of acidity keeping everything in line. It must be the exotic yellow fruit character that reminds me of something from the south of France. Interesting, extremely tasty and cheap - just what the doctor ordered. Drink it over the next two to three years.
$16
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 2000
Evolved red.
Vinturi - cherry liqueur, toasted nut, garrigue, iron, earth nose. Well-integrated.
Round with some textural sweetness. Cherry, garrigue/earth flavors given an edge by relatively strong acidity. A bit pent up at the moment, but has obvious depth/concentration. More expressive with a day or two of air, I'd guess. Or some lamb stew.
$50
Vinturi - cherry liqueur, toasted nut, garrigue, iron, earth nose. Well-integrated.
Round with some textural sweetness. Cherry, garrigue/earth flavors given an edge by relatively strong acidity. A bit pent up at the moment, but has obvious depth/concentration. More expressive with a day or two of air, I'd guess. Or some lamb stew.
$50
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Hartford, Fanuucchi-Wood Rd Vyd, Zinfandel, RRV 2004
Red/purple.
Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - brown sugar/coconut/grilled orange. An oozer, in spite of the citrus note.
Round, creamy and packed in the mouth. Citrus shows again in the mouth, and does add nice lift/freshness. Fairly strong acidity teams up with citrus chew in the finish. Slight heat, but it would be easy to miss. I'd drink this now.
$25 15.9% alcohol.
Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - brown sugar/coconut/grilled orange. An oozer, in spite of the citrus note.
Round, creamy and packed in the mouth. Citrus shows again in the mouth, and does add nice lift/freshness. Fairly strong acidity teams up with citrus chew in the finish. Slight heat, but it would be easy to miss. I'd drink this now.
$25 15.9% alcohol.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Kongsgaard "VioRous" Napa Valley 2007
Pale yellow.
Discreet nose - almond paste, lychee candy, peach, caramel. Nothing flamboyant about this. Subtle, precise.
Deep, creamy - but immediately lifted by a vibrant acid/mineral edge. Really wonderful textural sweetness without any sense of weight. All the aromas echo in the mouth. Long, subtle, "mineral" and peach finish. Seductive stuff - RFG.
I'm guessing that this is dominated by Roussanne, which comes from Kongsgaard's own vineyard. At an HdR seminar several years ago, he indicated that he had difficulty getting Roussanne above 20 brix (roughly translates to 12% alcohol).
$75 Viognier/Roussanne blend. Alcohol listed at 14.1%.
Discreet nose - almond paste, lychee candy, peach, caramel. Nothing flamboyant about this. Subtle, precise.
Deep, creamy - but immediately lifted by a vibrant acid/mineral edge. Really wonderful textural sweetness without any sense of weight. All the aromas echo in the mouth. Long, subtle, "mineral" and peach finish. Seductive stuff - RFG.
I'm guessing that this is dominated by Roussanne, which comes from Kongsgaard's own vineyard. At an HdR seminar several years ago, he indicated that he had difficulty getting Roussanne above 20 brix (roughly translates to 12% alcohol).
$75 Viognier/Roussanne blend. Alcohol listed at 14.1%.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Yangarra "Cadenzia" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre, McLaren Vale 2006
Red.
Vinturi - hints of red fruit, incense, hazelnut liqueur on the muted nose.
Round, slightly (fruit and alcohol) sweet, and mouthfilling. Acidity again is the dominant structural component, with relatively fine tannin adding some chew. Very tasty, but muddled somewhat. It could be the difference in vintages, but the 2005 Grenache showed more of everything (if my memory is still good).
$25
Vinturi - hints of red fruit, incense, hazelnut liqueur on the muted nose.
Round, slightly (fruit and alcohol) sweet, and mouthfilling. Acidity again is the dominant structural component, with relatively fine tannin adding some chew. Very tasty, but muddled somewhat. It could be the difference in vintages, but the 2005 Grenache showed more of everything (if my memory is still good).
$25
Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 1998
Deep red.
Vinturi - very attractive, suave, nose - earth/spice/pepper/toasted nut/red and black fruit/menthol.
Round, seamless impression, with slightly baked flavors. An edge of acidity and moderate tannin ultimately provide tension/grip. A roasted herb note on the finish. Interesting middle-weight. I believe '98 was a hot/dry year in RdD.
$28
Vinturi - very attractive, suave, nose - earth/spice/pepper/toasted nut/red and black fruit/menthol.
Round, seamless impression, with slightly baked flavors. An edge of acidity and moderate tannin ultimately provide tension/grip. A roasted herb note on the finish. Interesting middle-weight. I believe '98 was a hot/dry year in RdD.
$28
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Seghesio, Arneis, Russian River Valley 2008
Brilliant straw.
Aromas of perfectly ripe pear/apple, almond. Vibrant.
Nice flesh, with strong acidity (and some residual CO2). Fresh fruit flavors mirror nose. Some RS no doubt enhancing mouthfeel. Hardly complex, but great on a hot day. Goes "minerally" on the finish, with chew coating the front teeth.
$? Saran lined screwcap. Esoteric northern Italian variety. Courtesy of Frank Bostock.
Aromas of perfectly ripe pear/apple, almond. Vibrant.
Nice flesh, with strong acidity (and some residual CO2). Fresh fruit flavors mirror nose. Some RS no doubt enhancing mouthfeel. Hardly complex, but great on a hot day. Goes "minerally" on the finish, with chew coating the front teeth.
$? Saran lined screwcap. Esoteric northern Italian variety. Courtesy of Frank Bostock.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Grosset, Polish Hill Vyd., Riesling, Clare Valley 2005
Straw/yellow.
Earth/nut, lemon/lime, apple core, "mineral" nose.
Bracing, exceedingly pure flavors of lime, lemon. Extremely intense/vibrant, with mineral, front teeth "chew" following. Apple character shows late. Blatantly "dry", although this may have some RS, as it shows some citrus flesh now, not just zest. Or is this a result of bottle-age? Built for a very long haul.
$28 Tin-lined screwcap. Grosset was one of the screwcap pioneers.
Earth/nut, lemon/lime, apple core, "mineral" nose.
Bracing, exceedingly pure flavors of lime, lemon. Extremely intense/vibrant, with mineral, front teeth "chew" following. Apple character shows late. Blatantly "dry", although this may have some RS, as it shows some citrus flesh now, not just zest. Or is this a result of bottle-age? Built for a very long haul.
$28 Tin-lined screwcap. Grosset was one of the screwcap pioneers.
Torbreck "The Factor" (Shiraz) Barossa Valley 2002
Saturated red/purple.
Vinturi - refined nose - nut liqueur, creosote, pepper, fig, spice, black raspberry, earth ... Increasingly complex as it airs.
Deep, plush entry with immediate, persistent framing acidity. Shows slight heat. Tannin is a bit chewy/rustic. Nice, subtle length of raspberry, leather and spice flavors. This will be drinking well for a long time.
Day 5 - End of the bottle. Nose is killer/integrated and reminds me of vintage port (sans brandy). Round and saline in the mouth and completely packed. No hint of alcohol. Absolutely FK.
$80. I think this sees only older barrels and is 100% Syrah.
Vinturi - refined nose - nut liqueur, creosote, pepper, fig, spice, black raspberry, earth ... Increasingly complex as it airs.
Deep, plush entry with immediate, persistent framing acidity. Shows slight heat. Tannin is a bit chewy/rustic. Nice, subtle length of raspberry, leather and spice flavors. This will be drinking well for a long time.
Day 5 - End of the bottle. Nose is killer/integrated and reminds me of vintage port (sans brandy). Round and saline in the mouth and completely packed. No hint of alcohol. Absolutely FK.
$80. I think this sees only older barrels and is 100% Syrah.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Palacios "Petalos" 2005 (Bierzo, Spain)
Red/purple.
Vinturi - toasted oak, earth, fig, baking spices and a hint of fresh herbs on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a deep earth/spice character. Minor acid/saline intrusion lifts low-toned flavors and reveals a floral citrus note. Actually finishes with pungent, chewy, citrus resonance.
$18
Vinturi - toasted oak, earth, fig, baking spices and a hint of fresh herbs on the nose.
Round and mouth-filling, with a deep earth/spice character. Minor acid/saline intrusion lifts low-toned flavors and reveals a floral citrus note. Actually finishes with pungent, chewy, citrus resonance.
$18
Thackrey "Andromeda" Pinot Noir, Devil's Gulch Ranch, Marin County 2002
Deep red, slightly dull rim.
Vinturi - savory/saucy nose - meat drippings, pepper, earth, red cherry, suave oak spices.
Round, with a fairly strong edge of acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Nice, vibrant red cherry/spice flavors. Acidity constricts the finish a bit. Intense middle-weight, despite alcohol listed at 15.1%. Red cherry kicks back in, late. 5-6 more years in the cellar?
Day 2 - more savory/umami action. Meat drippings/red cherry coulis/suave spice. My 12 year old loves the aromatics. Ditto in the mouth. Deep, but has lift and structure. Rocks hard.
$45
Vinturi - savory/saucy nose - meat drippings, pepper, earth, red cherry, suave oak spices.
Round, with a fairly strong edge of acidity moving in from the sides of the mouth. Nice, vibrant red cherry/spice flavors. Acidity constricts the finish a bit. Intense middle-weight, despite alcohol listed at 15.1%. Red cherry kicks back in, late. 5-6 more years in the cellar?
Day 2 - more savory/umami action. Meat drippings/red cherry coulis/suave spice. My 12 year old loves the aromatics. Ditto in the mouth. Deep, but has lift and structure. Rocks hard.
$45
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Darling Cellars "Onyx" "Kroon" Groenekloof (West Coast, South Africa) 1999
Deep red.
Vinturi - smoke/bacon/brown sugar/raspberry sauce nose. Add pancakes and you've got breakfast. Some grilled herb action floating around too.
Round, plush, filled-in. But not heavy at all, despite fairly thick smoky bacon flavor (heavy toast American). There's a saline/grainy quality. Intensely flavored middle-weight. Unusual. Huge oak influence, but it works.
Tanzer shot a big biscuit over the '99 Shiraz from this producer (years ago) and gave high marks to this wine as well. I think it is a Pinotage/Shiraz blend ... Crazy, convoluted labeling.
$30
Vinturi - smoke/bacon/brown sugar/raspberry sauce nose. Add pancakes and you've got breakfast. Some grilled herb action floating around too.
Round, plush, filled-in. But not heavy at all, despite fairly thick smoky bacon flavor (heavy toast American). There's a saline/grainy quality. Intensely flavored middle-weight. Unusual. Huge oak influence, but it works.
Tanzer shot a big biscuit over the '99 Shiraz from this producer (years ago) and gave high marks to this wine as well. I think it is a Pinotage/Shiraz blend ... Crazy, convoluted labeling.
$30
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape, Blanc 2006
Straw/yellow.
Nut paste, pear, lemon, pineapple aromas. Finely-etched, pure.
Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering acid/mineral edge. Killer. Vibrant, lifted, slightly floral. Long, tactile finish of nuts and pineapple. Nothing heavy or dull here. I shouldn't have opened this (last bottle) - love to see it in 3-4 years.
$55. A blend that includes a hefty percentage of Clairette (an esoteric Rhone variety)
Nut paste, pear, lemon, pineapple aromas. Finely-etched, pure.
Round and mouth-filling, with a mouth-watering acid/mineral edge. Killer. Vibrant, lifted, slightly floral. Long, tactile finish of nuts and pineapple. Nothing heavy or dull here. I shouldn't have opened this (last bottle) - love to see it in 3-4 years.
$55. A blend that includes a hefty percentage of Clairette (an esoteric Rhone variety)
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Breton, Chinon (Cabernet Franc, Loire Valley) "Beaumont" 2005
Opaque red/purple.
No Vinturi (synthetic cork). Smells like loaded Bordeaux - deep black currant, marzipan, earth, toasted oak(?).
Deep middle-weight, with strong acidity and moderate tannin. Very nice mid-palate flesh. Shows little oak influence in the mouth. Finishes lean/front teeth coating chew - black currant. Great wine for foodies.
Day 4 - No real aromatic change. This is deep/packed. This isn't the ethereal/Pinot style of CF. No obvious oxidation in the mouth either. But it would be foolish to cellar this for more than another year or two (closure issue).
$20. Crazy deal - just with they'd used another closure.
No Vinturi (synthetic cork). Smells like loaded Bordeaux - deep black currant, marzipan, earth, toasted oak(?).
Deep middle-weight, with strong acidity and moderate tannin. Very nice mid-palate flesh. Shows little oak influence in the mouth. Finishes lean/front teeth coating chew - black currant. Great wine for foodies.
Day 4 - No real aromatic change. This is deep/packed. This isn't the ethereal/Pinot style of CF. No obvious oxidation in the mouth either. But it would be foolish to cellar this for more than another year or two (closure issue).
$20. Crazy deal - just with they'd used another closure.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Algueira, Ribeira Sacra 2004
Deep red.
Vinturi - savory nose - toasted oak/nut, slow roasted meat, earth with black fruit underneath.
Round and low-toned in the mouth, with an earth/spice/pepper character that reminds me of Rioja to some extent. A medicinal/saline nuance also. Fine acidity slowly shows itself. This is really good. Nice chewy, earth/spice finish.
$25. 100% Mencia
Vinturi - savory nose - toasted oak/nut, slow roasted meat, earth with black fruit underneath.
Round and low-toned in the mouth, with an earth/spice/pepper character that reminds me of Rioja to some extent. A medicinal/saline nuance also. Fine acidity slowly shows itself. This is really good. Nice chewy, earth/spice finish.
$25. 100% Mencia
Domaine du Vissoux "Poncie" Fleurie (Beaujolais) 2007
Red.
Herbs, fresh earth, raspberry, light pepper/citrus nose. Nice.
Intensely flavored on entry, herbs and earth (beet), with strong acidity. Light bodied. Very lively, with nice peppery length.
Very tasty. 12.5% alcohol listed.
$18?
Herbs, fresh earth, raspberry, light pepper/citrus nose. Nice.
Intensely flavored on entry, herbs and earth (beet), with strong acidity. Light bodied. Very lively, with nice peppery length.
Very tasty. 12.5% alcohol listed.
$18?
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Astrales, Ribera del Duero 2003
Purple/red.
Vinturi - grilled oak, black raspberry, earth, slight coconut nose.
Round, suave and intensely flavored. Strong acidity keeps this wine's fruit sweetness nicely in check. Long, perfumed, moderately tannic finish. I'd never think this was from 2003. Really good action that could use 4-6 more years of bottle age.
$40
Vinturi - grilled oak, black raspberry, earth, slight coconut nose.
Round, suave and intensely flavored. Strong acidity keeps this wine's fruit sweetness nicely in check. Long, perfumed, moderately tannic finish. I'd never think this was from 2003. Really good action that could use 4-6 more years of bottle age.
$40
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Prager, Riesling, Smaragd, Klaus, 2003 (Austria)
Light yellow.
Lemon zest/flesh, spice, fresh herbs/flowers, light earth nose. But there's something deeper, sumptuous - nut/meat action- here. Really grows on you.
Deep and powerful in the mouth. Absolutely loaded, with lemon (marmalade)/herb/floral character repeating. There's a decent bit of RS, but strong acid/mineral chew more than matches it. Long, pungent, chewy finish. FK.
$40
Lemon zest/flesh, spice, fresh herbs/flowers, light earth nose. But there's something deeper, sumptuous - nut/meat action- here. Really grows on you.
Deep and powerful in the mouth. Absolutely loaded, with lemon (marmalade)/herb/floral character repeating. There's a decent bit of RS, but strong acid/mineral chew more than matches it. Long, pungent, chewy finish. FK.
$40
Friday, July 17, 2009
Marcassin "Bondi Home Ranch" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2002
Deep, saturated red.
Vinturi - deep, sumptuous nose - smoke, herbs, hazelnut sauce, brine, tomato/bruschetta, smoked meat. Very deep/loaded. Keeps adding stuff as it airs that I can't describe. Red licorice?
Completely round and mouth-filling, packed but no weight. Acid/slight VA edge is noticeable, but welcome, adding spicy lift.
Tanzer's "3-D" texture that reminds me of certain Alban Syrahs. Which also, routinely, show no heat, despite high alcohol.
Somebody better grab this bottle soon, or I'll be sleeping through tomorrow.
$90. 14.9% alcohol.
Vinturi - deep, sumptuous nose - smoke, herbs, hazelnut sauce, brine, tomato/bruschetta, smoked meat. Very deep/loaded. Keeps adding stuff as it airs that I can't describe. Red licorice?
Completely round and mouth-filling, packed but no weight. Acid/slight VA edge is noticeable, but welcome, adding spicy lift.
Tanzer's "3-D" texture that reminds me of certain Alban Syrahs. Which also, routinely, show no heat, despite high alcohol.
Somebody better grab this bottle soon, or I'll be sleeping through tomorrow.
$90. 14.9% alcohol.
Guigal, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000
Red, evolved rim.
Vinturi - grilled herbs, nut sauce, spicy ketchup, earth nose. Interesting.
Round, mouth-filling, with a nice edge of acidity framing everything. Seamless and unforced. Grilled/smoky herb character repeats strongly. Stems? Deep and plush spicy ketchup flavors too. As with almost every "basic" appellation bottling from Guigal, this is textbook stuff. Modern, suave winemaking, but no noticeable new oak. And cheap for what you get.
$30?
Vinturi - grilled herbs, nut sauce, spicy ketchup, earth nose. Interesting.
Round, mouth-filling, with a nice edge of acidity framing everything. Seamless and unforced. Grilled/smoky herb character repeats strongly. Stems? Deep and plush spicy ketchup flavors too. As with almost every "basic" appellation bottling from Guigal, this is textbook stuff. Modern, suave winemaking, but no noticeable new oak. And cheap for what you get.
$30?
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Clos des Llops "Clos Manyetes" Priorat 2000
Red.
Vinturi - creosote, maple candy, earth and suggestions (barely) of red and black fruit on the nose.
Round. Slight textural sweetness is immediately rectified by fairly stiff acid/tannin synergy. This ain't garnacha-based. But maintains nice flavor flow through the finish. More giving as it airs.
Day 4 - Creosote, herbs and sweet/floral fruit nose. Much rounder and broader today - I'd think this was Grenache-based. Showing reasonably fine acid-driven structure, some "mineral" action too. No bitching about the cork now.
$50 on release. Uncoated cork (not the best seal). Why Barbier used uncoated corks at Mogador and LLops for so long is beyond me. Based on Carignan.
Vinturi - creosote, maple candy, earth and suggestions (barely) of red and black fruit on the nose.
Round. Slight textural sweetness is immediately rectified by fairly stiff acid/tannin synergy. This ain't garnacha-based. But maintains nice flavor flow through the finish. More giving as it airs.
Day 4 - Creosote, herbs and sweet/floral fruit nose. Much rounder and broader today - I'd think this was Grenache-based. Showing reasonably fine acid-driven structure, some "mineral" action too. No bitching about the cork now.
$50 on release. Uncoated cork (not the best seal). Why Barbier used uncoated corks at Mogador and LLops for so long is beyond me. Based on Carignan.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Muga "Torre Muga" Rioja 2001
Purple/red.
Vinturi - great nose - pepper, earth, hazelnut, coconut .. Very deep, integrated and subtle. Can't articulate.
Round with some initial black fruit sweetness, then fairly intense acidity kicks in, as do citrus zest/pepper/grilled meat flavors. Still strong acid/mineral/tannin chew on the finish. This rocks. Like the Monasterio, this is nowhere close to maturity. What a great contrast - RdD/Rioja. Never guess these are based on the same variety w/o prior experience.
$55 on release.
Vinturi - great nose - pepper, earth, hazelnut, coconut .. Very deep, integrated and subtle. Can't articulate.
Round with some initial black fruit sweetness, then fairly intense acidity kicks in, as do citrus zest/pepper/grilled meat flavors. Still strong acid/mineral/tannin chew on the finish. This rocks. Like the Monasterio, this is nowhere close to maturity. What a great contrast - RdD/Rioja. Never guess these are based on the same variety w/o prior experience.
$55 on release.
Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2001
Purple/red.
Vinturi - suave oak toast, menthol, earth, black fruit, spice nose. Light green pepper note adds lift.
Deep and saturated in the mouth, no hard edges, but no sweetness either. More than a little "Bordeaux" in style. But fruit here is more baked (not pejorative). Tannin is still fairly stiff in the finish, but this just needs several more years in bottle.
Day 2 - Ah, now this is kicking in. Deeper, with green element now seamlessly woven into black fruit custard and sumptuous spices. Very deep and long.
$35 on release. Tempranillo and Cabernet primarily, made by Mr. Sisseck.
Vinturi - suave oak toast, menthol, earth, black fruit, spice nose. Light green pepper note adds lift.
Deep and saturated in the mouth, no hard edges, but no sweetness either. More than a little "Bordeaux" in style. But fruit here is more baked (not pejorative). Tannin is still fairly stiff in the finish, but this just needs several more years in bottle.
Day 2 - Ah, now this is kicking in. Deeper, with green element now seamlessly woven into black fruit custard and sumptuous spices. Very deep and long.
$35 on release. Tempranillo and Cabernet primarily, made by Mr. Sisseck.
Schloss Lieser, Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Spatlese, M-S-R 2002
Brilliant straw.
Smoke, walnut, peanut sauce and nectarine flesh on the discreet nose. There's a lurking petrol note too.
Deep (for German Riesling), fleshy, ripe nectarine flesh and pit. Strong mineral/acid structure basically slices right through the fruit/sweetness, getting the upper hand on the long, subtle, mineral chew finish. Nectarine and custard in a supporting role. Another wine you'd never get tired of drinking.
$22 on release. Stupidly cheap.
Smoke, walnut, peanut sauce and nectarine flesh on the discreet nose. There's a lurking petrol note too.
Deep (for German Riesling), fleshy, ripe nectarine flesh and pit. Strong mineral/acid structure basically slices right through the fruit/sweetness, getting the upper hand on the long, subtle, mineral chew finish. Nectarine and custard in a supporting role. Another wine you'd never get tired of drinking.
$22 on release. Stupidly cheap.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Mas des Dames "La Dame" Coteaux du Languedoc 2007
Red/purple.
Vinturi - crazy S. France nose - green herbs (oregano), game (brett? not at all clear), shoe polish/tar, pepper, lavender, raspberry coulis. Ridiculously complex and vivid for something so cheap.
Middle-weight, with creamy depth framed by strong acidity. Intensely flavored and structured, a bit like Priorat. No easy sweetness. This will benefit from 4-5 years of additional bottle age.
Day 5 - Still vibrant/vivid, just deeper. Really stupid. Should be a glass pour at any serious restaurant.
$15. 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah. Opened yesterday. Twin top technical cork.
Vinturi - crazy S. France nose - green herbs (oregano), game (brett? not at all clear), shoe polish/tar, pepper, lavender, raspberry coulis. Ridiculously complex and vivid for something so cheap.
Middle-weight, with creamy depth framed by strong acidity. Intensely flavored and structured, a bit like Priorat. No easy sweetness. This will benefit from 4-5 years of additional bottle age.
Day 5 - Still vibrant/vivid, just deeper. Really stupid. Should be a glass pour at any serious restaurant.
$15. 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Syrah. Opened yesterday. Twin top technical cork.
Chateau Bel Air, Bordeaux Superieur 2005
Deep red.
Vinturi - low-toned, fairly deep nose - clay/earth, black raspberry, mint.
Round initial impression immediately tempered by strong acidity and modest concentration. Reasonably intense flavors, but definitely much leaner than the nose suggests. But at this price, still a great house wine. I had it with grilled chicken. Great match.
$9. 82% Merlot. Opened yesterday.
Vinturi - low-toned, fairly deep nose - clay/earth, black raspberry, mint.
Round initial impression immediately tempered by strong acidity and modest concentration. Reasonably intense flavors, but definitely much leaner than the nose suggests. But at this price, still a great house wine. I had it with grilled chicken. Great match.
$9. 82% Merlot. Opened yesterday.
Monday, July 6, 2009
Pertimali (Sassetti), Brunello di Montalcino 1997
Deep red.
Vinturi - earth/bricks/shoe polish/black cherry jam/toasted nut nose.
Round and deep, but a bit facile, particularly following the Lagrange. Iron and cherry flavors with fairly strong acidity clamping on the finish. This needs more time.
$50
Vinturi - earth/bricks/shoe polish/black cherry jam/toasted nut nose.
Round and deep, but a bit facile, particularly following the Lagrange. Iron and cherry flavors with fairly strong acidity clamping on the finish. This needs more time.
$50
Chateau Lagrange, St. Julien 1996
Deep red.
Vinturi - beautiful, pure, nose of oak toast, Bordeaux herbs, blackcurrant, black raspberry, hazelnut liqueur, black licorice, menthol, earth ... Holy shit, this is killer.
Round, deep, with some textural sweetness. Blackcurrant, black raspberry, herb and earth/toast flavors unimpeded by fine acid/tannin synergy that sneaks up on the side teeth. This is RFG, and still has room to grow.
$ ? I think Dr. Modak brought an '88 to a tasting of 1st growths a few years ago. That bottle (my first Lagrange) rocked also.
Vinturi - beautiful, pure, nose of oak toast, Bordeaux herbs, blackcurrant, black raspberry, hazelnut liqueur, black licorice, menthol, earth ... Holy shit, this is killer.
Round, deep, with some textural sweetness. Blackcurrant, black raspberry, herb and earth/toast flavors unimpeded by fine acid/tannin synergy that sneaks up on the side teeth. This is RFG, and still has room to grow.
$ ? I think Dr. Modak brought an '88 to a tasting of 1st growths a few years ago. That bottle (my first Lagrange) rocked also.
Chateau Leoville Poyferre, St. Julien 1996
Deep, saturated red.
Vinturi - iron/suave barrel toast/grilled herbs/earth (light brett, but attractive)/blackcurrant/flowers on the nose. Integrated, subtle, interesting.
Round middle-weight. Firm structure slowly reveals itself, but does not shut down blackcurrant/earth/ember flavors. Not incredible, but very satisfying action. It seems to me that this could use another 4-5 years in the cellar.
$ ?
Vinturi - iron/suave barrel toast/grilled herbs/earth (light brett, but attractive)/blackcurrant/flowers on the nose. Integrated, subtle, interesting.
Round middle-weight. Firm structure slowly reveals itself, but does not shut down blackcurrant/earth/ember flavors. Not incredible, but very satisfying action. It seems to me that this could use another 4-5 years in the cellar.
$ ?
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Kongsgaard, 63% Roussanne 37% Viognier, 2005 Napa Valley
Yellow.
Smoke, grilled peach/apricot, caramel, pepper/spice nose.
Round and lusciously sweet texture, but decidedly dry. Bonefest. Long, exotic, minerally, caramel, floral finish. Way too easy (and delicious).
$75
Smoke, grilled peach/apricot, caramel, pepper/spice nose.
Round and lusciously sweet texture, but decidedly dry. Bonefest. Long, exotic, minerally, caramel, floral finish. Way too easy (and delicious).
$75
Copain, Roussanne, James Berry Vyd. 2004
Light yellow.
Almond paste, light popcorn, flowers, caramel, apricot nose. Evolves with air and warming.
Round, deep, and intense - almond/caramel/citrus/peach/mineral flavors. Structure is a bit aggressive at the moment, really clamping down on the front teeth. But then a lime note works its way out ... Wild, loaded, stuff. Might be in a weird phase, but I'd think this could drink well for many more years.
$40
Almond paste, light popcorn, flowers, caramel, apricot nose. Evolves with air and warming.
Round, deep, and intense - almond/caramel/citrus/peach/mineral flavors. Structure is a bit aggressive at the moment, really clamping down on the front teeth. But then a lime note works its way out ... Wild, loaded, stuff. Might be in a weird phase, but I'd think this could drink well for many more years.
$40
Yalumba, Viognier (organically grown), South Australia 2007
Bright light yellow.
Reticent flint, lychee, and spice aromas. A floral quality too.
Round and mouthcoating. Almost waxy feel, like Marsanne, but not oily. Very bright, with a peppery character to the apricot and lychee flavors. Not incredibly concentrated, but quite satisfying from every angle. Almost bracingly dry finish. Foodies will love this.
$15? Can't remember. Screwcap
Reticent flint, lychee, and spice aromas. A floral quality too.
Round and mouthcoating. Almost waxy feel, like Marsanne, but not oily. Very bright, with a peppery character to the apricot and lychee flavors. Not incredibly concentrated, but quite satisfying from every angle. Almost bracingly dry finish. Foodies will love this.
$15? Can't remember. Screwcap
Martinsancho, Verdejo, Rueda (Spain) 2007
Bright, light yellow.
Musky kiwi, spice, fresh oregano aromatics.
Nice breadth in the mouth, with ripe lemon, pear and tropical fruit flavors playing off strong mineral/acid structure. Very refreshing with good, chewy, length.
$20
Musky kiwi, spice, fresh oregano aromatics.
Nice breadth in the mouth, with ripe lemon, pear and tropical fruit flavors playing off strong mineral/acid structure. Very refreshing with good, chewy, length.
$20
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
K Vintners, Syrah "Milbrandt" Wahluke Slope, Columbia Valley 2006
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - integrated, discreet nose - wilted herbs, toasted nut, savory meat. Raspberry undertone.
Deep, natural, feel in the mouth. Acidity is reasonably strong, but does not intrude. Herbs and smoke, with the sour green edge Cote Rotie often has (much more pleasant than it sounds). An exuberant raspberry note on the long finish. Very nice, and will drink well for 5-8 more years, maybe longer.
$30
Vinturi - integrated, discreet nose - wilted herbs, toasted nut, savory meat. Raspberry undertone.
Deep, natural, feel in the mouth. Acidity is reasonably strong, but does not intrude. Herbs and smoke, with the sour green edge Cote Rotie often has (much more pleasant than it sounds). An exuberant raspberry note on the long finish. Very nice, and will drink well for 5-8 more years, maybe longer.
$30
Tapteil, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain (Yakima Valley) 2004
Saturated purple/red.
Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - coconut/macaroon, grilled meat, earth/oak spice. Smells like something from Spain (RdD). Pepper late.
Deep and plush in the mouth with coconut (attractive) front and center. Herbs and blackcurrant further down the line. A bit rustic and chewy, but loaded. This is RGS. Real substance here.
$30
Vinturi - deep, bass, nose - coconut/macaroon, grilled meat, earth/oak spice. Smells like something from Spain (RdD). Pepper late.
Deep and plush in the mouth with coconut (attractive) front and center. Herbs and blackcurrant further down the line. A bit rustic and chewy, but loaded. This is RGS. Real substance here.
$30
Cadaretta, Merlot, Columbia Valley 2006
Deep red.
Vinturi - raspberry, slight shoe polish, oak toast/earth. Attractive, suave.
Ditto in the mouth, lean, but has nice depth of flavor and brightness. Grows on you. Nothing massive about this. Refined and lifted in the final analysis, with Tanzer's "sneaky length".
$40 14.9% alcohol listed
Vinturi - raspberry, slight shoe polish, oak toast/earth. Attractive, suave.
Ditto in the mouth, lean, but has nice depth of flavor and brightness. Grows on you. Nothing massive about this. Refined and lifted in the final analysis, with Tanzer's "sneaky length".
$40 14.9% alcohol listed
Monday, June 29, 2009
Walter Dacon, Vin a Dessert, Syrah, Red Mountain 2007
Saturated red/purple.
Authentic, "porty" nose - brandied, intense black fruits, licorice, damp earth. Opened yesterday. Better aromatic integration and expression today.
Sweet and powerful in the mouth, with acidity the main structural component. Very tasty, but lacks the density/extract to fully support its sugar.
$18 375mL
Authentic, "porty" nose - brandied, intense black fruits, licorice, damp earth. Opened yesterday. Better aromatic integration and expression today.
Sweet and powerful in the mouth, with acidity the main structural component. Very tasty, but lacks the density/extract to fully support its sugar.
$18 375mL
Cedar Creek "Platinum Reserve" Meritage, Okanagan Valley 2002
Saturated red/purple.
Very deep, sumptuous aromas of Bordeaux herbs, chocolate, plum/raspberry sauce and well-integrated oak toast. PFG.
Round, plush and packed. Another wine that sports a saline, defining, edge. Nothing crazy, though. Shows a bit of tomato and pepper in the mouth, too. Acid-driven tannin ultimately constricts the finish.
$50 I don't remember the blend here, but it is Cabernet and Merlot. Micro-ox employed, I think. Early (very good) work from Mr. DiBello. Also opened yesterday.
Very deep, sumptuous aromas of Bordeaux herbs, chocolate, plum/raspberry sauce and well-integrated oak toast. PFG.
Round, plush and packed. Another wine that sports a saline, defining, edge. Nothing crazy, though. Shows a bit of tomato and pepper in the mouth, too. Acid-driven tannin ultimately constricts the finish.
$50 I don't remember the blend here, but it is Cabernet and Merlot. Micro-ox employed, I think. Early (very good) work from Mr. DiBello. Also opened yesterday.
Panther Creek "Shea Vineyard" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2004
Deep red.
Deep, roasted, smoky nose - could be Syrah. Roasted hazelnut, earth and a hint of black fruit.
Deep in the mouth, with a touch of (textural) sweetness. Aromas largely follow nose, with fruit peeking out in the mid-palate and finish. Relatively strong acid/tannin synergy shortens the finish. Also opened yesterday.
$45
Deep, roasted, smoky nose - could be Syrah. Roasted hazelnut, earth and a hint of black fruit.
Deep in the mouth, with a touch of (textural) sweetness. Aromas largely follow nose, with fruit peeking out in the mid-palate and finish. Relatively strong acid/tannin synergy shortens the finish. Also opened yesterday.
$45
Argyle "Reserve" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2005
Slightly dull red.
Spicy, woodsy, cherry nose. Hints of roasted herb and pepper.
Slightly saline, round impression. Then firmed considerably by relatively strong acidity. Opened yesterday, when it showed more textural "give". Very much a crowd-pleaser.
$25
Spicy, woodsy, cherry nose. Hints of roasted herb and pepper.
Slightly saline, round impression. Then firmed considerably by relatively strong acidity. Opened yesterday, when it showed more textural "give". Very much a crowd-pleaser.
$25
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Pax "Obsidian" Syrah, Knights Valley 2003
Opaque (hazy) purple/red.
Vinturi - a multitude of spices, dried fig, menthol, licorice, black raspberry on the nose.
Intense, round and slightly grainy. Deep, but no fat here. This seems more constricted in the finish than previous bottles. Not giving it up. Probably just needs more cellar time, as this is loaded with material.
$50
Vinturi - a multitude of spices, dried fig, menthol, licorice, black raspberry on the nose.
Intense, round and slightly grainy. Deep, but no fat here. This seems more constricted in the finish than previous bottles. Not giving it up. Probably just needs more cellar time, as this is loaded with material.
$50
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Marcassin, Marcassin Vyd, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2004
Light yellow.
Vinturi - caramel, truffle/smoke/sulfide, lemon peel (underneath) on the nose.
Big, deep, loaded entry. Hugely concentrated, with flavors following the nose. A bit abrasive in the mid-palate, with alcohol and sulfide/tannin/acid structure butting heads. Caramel, lemon, mineral chew finish. Very, very long.
$120
Vinturi - caramel, truffle/smoke/sulfide, lemon peel (underneath) on the nose.
Big, deep, loaded entry. Hugely concentrated, with flavors following the nose. A bit abrasive in the mid-palate, with alcohol and sulfide/tannin/acid structure butting heads. Caramel, lemon, mineral chew finish. Very, very long.
$120
J.J. Prum, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Spatlese 2002
Platinum/straw.
Discreet nose - light petrol, white peach, nectarine.
Fairly sweet initial impression, with perfectly ripe peach/nectarine flavors gradually tightened and focused by fine minerality/acidity. Great balancing act, light, airy. Mineral chew and nectarine pit finish. Could drink a huge amount of this stuff.
Opened yesterday.
$30 7.5% alcohol listed, AP# 2 576 511 27 03
Discreet nose - light petrol, white peach, nectarine.
Fairly sweet initial impression, with perfectly ripe peach/nectarine flavors gradually tightened and focused by fine minerality/acidity. Great balancing act, light, airy. Mineral chew and nectarine pit finish. Could drink a huge amount of this stuff.
Opened yesterday.
$30 7.5% alcohol listed, AP# 2 576 511 27 03
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Thackrey "Orion" Rossi Vyd., St. Helena 2000
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - another sumptuous wine - oak embers, light eucalyptus, dried fig, black raspberry, grilled meat nose. Reminds me of a great, vibrant, Shiraz.
Deep, with a slight textural sweetness. Immediately tempered by strong acidity. Deep, but relatively one-dimensional. Needs more cellar time.
$75
Vinturi - another sumptuous wine - oak embers, light eucalyptus, dried fig, black raspberry, grilled meat nose. Reminds me of a great, vibrant, Shiraz.
Deep, with a slight textural sweetness. Immediately tempered by strong acidity. Deep, but relatively one-dimensional. Needs more cellar time.
$75
Aalto, Ribera del Duero 2000
Deep purple/red.
Vinturi - macaroon, blackberry, black raspberry, toasted oak, spice - can't articulate everything. Sumptuous, like a baked confection.
Deep and broad in the mouth, with a grainy/saline edge. Intense, focused. This is killer. Huge oak influence, but great raw materials and winemaker (Mariano Garcia). And decent bottle age. This will drink well for years to come.
$35 on release
Vinturi - macaroon, blackberry, black raspberry, toasted oak, spice - can't articulate everything. Sumptuous, like a baked confection.
Deep and broad in the mouth, with a grainy/saline edge. Intense, focused. This is killer. Huge oak influence, but great raw materials and winemaker (Mariano Garcia). And decent bottle age. This will drink well for years to come.
$35 on release
Zind Humbrecht, Pinot Gris, Rangen "Clos St. Urbain" 2002
Deep copper/gold.
Deep marmalade, roasted peach and truffle nose.
Quite sweet and concentrated in the mouth, but very well-defined thanks to strong acidity (more than a little VA adds spunk). Somehow manages to show a light touch. Light acid/mineral chew reaches the front teeth.
$30 375mL 15% alcohol, indice 4 (pretty sweet)
Deep marmalade, roasted peach and truffle nose.
Quite sweet and concentrated in the mouth, but very well-defined thanks to strong acidity (more than a little VA adds spunk). Somehow manages to show a light touch. Light acid/mineral chew reaches the front teeth.
$30 375mL 15% alcohol, indice 4 (pretty sweet)
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Ken Estes, Fred Sontag
Ken Estes loved wine and life. No evil bone in his body, just a laugh and another great joke.
Fred Sontag taught many to think, and, eventually, to doubt. All the better for it.
Fred Sontag taught many to think, and, eventually, to doubt. All the better for it.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Mogador 1999 Priorat (Spain)
Purple/red.
Vinturi - shoe polish, toasted oak, prune/blackberry, earth, herb nose. Loaded, deep.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid/saline edge at the outer boundary. Plush mid-palate, though the acid/tannin synergy increases. The '97 reminded me of really good left bank Bordeaux. This brings (very ripe) St. Emilion to mind. And Soumade "Fleur" Rasteau. I'm not sure this has much room to improve, however, so drink it over the next 5-6 years.
$40 on release
Vinturi - shoe polish, toasted oak, prune/blackberry, earth, herb nose. Loaded, deep.
Round and mouth-filling, with an acid/saline edge at the outer boundary. Plush mid-palate, though the acid/tannin synergy increases. The '97 reminded me of really good left bank Bordeaux. This brings (very ripe) St. Emilion to mind. And Soumade "Fleur" Rasteau. I'm not sure this has much room to improve, however, so drink it over the next 5-6 years.
$40 on release
Copain 2006 Hacienda Secoya, Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)
Red.
Vinturi - intense, deep, lifted, crancherry, spice, underbrush, oak nut nose.
Round and taut simultaneously, with strong, but fine, acidity driving red fruit and spice flavors. Tanzer's "thrust". Very nice depth and length. Nothing abrasive, but not wimpy either. Built for the cellar, say 4-8 more years.
$45
Vinturi - intense, deep, lifted, crancherry, spice, underbrush, oak nut nose.
Round and taut simultaneously, with strong, but fine, acidity driving red fruit and spice flavors. Tanzer's "thrust". Very nice depth and length. Nothing abrasive, but not wimpy either. Built for the cellar, say 4-8 more years.
$45
Friday, June 12, 2009
Copain, Syrah, Harrison Clarke, Santa Ynez Valley 2006
Deep purple.
Vinturi - low-toned, discreet nose. Beautifully integrated menthol/licorice/bacon/toasted nut/fig sauce aromas. Refined, subtle.
Round and mouth-filling with a surprising, vibrant, citric edge. Classy, interesting stuff, easily dismissed if you're not paying attention. I wasn't, initially. Reminds me of some Chapoutier bottlings in that sense. Unfortunately I only have one bottle left.
Wonder what this will be like in 6-8 years. RFG.
$45 From a site that is, basically, pure limestone.
Vinturi - low-toned, discreet nose. Beautifully integrated menthol/licorice/bacon/toasted nut/fig sauce aromas. Refined, subtle.
Round and mouth-filling with a surprising, vibrant, citric edge. Classy, interesting stuff, easily dismissed if you're not paying attention. I wasn't, initially. Reminds me of some Chapoutier bottlings in that sense. Unfortunately I only have one bottle left.
Wonder what this will be like in 6-8 years. RFG.
$45 From a site that is, basically, pure limestone.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Altovinum "Evodia" Garnacha, Catalayud 2007
Light red.
Vinturi - moderate intensity nose - grapefruit zest, ruby flesh and earth.
Intense grapefruit zest entry, reasonable length. Nice mid-palate freshness and depth. All citrus on the slightly chewy finish. Benefits from air-time. Iron makes a very late appearance.
$11, courtesy of Mr. Bo Stock, as was the Roogle Riesling. This is apparently Eric Solomon's replacement for Las Rocas (brand sold to Gallo). Not sure if this measures up, but I haven't had the '07 Las Rocas "regular".
Vinturi - moderate intensity nose - grapefruit zest, ruby flesh and earth.
Intense grapefruit zest entry, reasonable length. Nice mid-palate freshness and depth. All citrus on the slightly chewy finish. Benefits from air-time. Iron makes a very late appearance.
$11, courtesy of Mr. Bo Stock, as was the Roogle Riesling. This is apparently Eric Solomon's replacement for Las Rocas (brand sold to Gallo). Not sure if this measures up, but I haven't had the '07 Las Rocas "regular".
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Colosi, Nero d'Avola, Sicily 2007
Purple.
Vinturi - great "modern" nose - deep black fruit, clay/earth and spice. Shows nice small barrel elevage (?).
Round, deep and plush in the mouth. Black fruit/earth flavors remind me again (nose does too) of Spanish Monastrell (Juan Gil). Acid drives moderate tannin, but nothing abrasive about this. There's a licorice nuance also. Very good depth and concentration.
$17 Synthetic cork
Vinturi - great "modern" nose - deep black fruit, clay/earth and spice. Shows nice small barrel elevage (?).
Round, deep and plush in the mouth. Black fruit/earth flavors remind me again (nose does too) of Spanish Monastrell (Juan Gil). Acid drives moderate tannin, but nothing abrasive about this. There's a licorice nuance also. Very good depth and concentration.
$17 Synthetic cork
Marquis-Philips "Roogle" Riesling, S.Eastern Australia 2008
Straw.
Talc, nut, apple, lime nose.
Nice initial fruit sweetness plays off of mineral/acid chew. Picks up a ripe peach character in the mid-palate. Bright, fresh and relatively giving for Riesling. Extremely tasty, satisfying action that shows no hardness.
$8 Deal? Screwcap.
Talc, nut, apple, lime nose.
Nice initial fruit sweetness plays off of mineral/acid chew. Picks up a ripe peach character in the mid-palate. Bright, fresh and relatively giving for Riesling. Extremely tasty, satisfying action that shows no hardness.
$8 Deal? Screwcap.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Graham's, Vintage Porto 1994
Dull red.
Vinturi - toasty oak (but there is no new oak used)/grilled meat, cola, dried fig/spice, Amaretto nose. Brandy reasonable well-integrated. Deep, loaded and powerful.
Huge in the mouth with powerful brandy and sweetness giving this a liqueur character. Hugely sweet, but it works, and keeps on giving in the finish. Blueberry, raspberry, blackberry. You barely notice the tannic edge that frames it all. Really long. RFG
Day 3 - Totally killer nose - blackberry/raisin custard, Amaretto. Just all over the place - sloppy (in the best sense of that word) - in the mouth. Manages to cut through all the sugar and opulence with tremendous structure, finishing almost like a dry red, but with dessert wine length. Amaretto. Could go blind drinking this.
$35 375mL
Vinturi - toasty oak (but there is no new oak used)/grilled meat, cola, dried fig/spice, Amaretto nose. Brandy reasonable well-integrated. Deep, loaded and powerful.
Huge in the mouth with powerful brandy and sweetness giving this a liqueur character. Hugely sweet, but it works, and keeps on giving in the finish. Blueberry, raspberry, blackberry. You barely notice the tannic edge that frames it all. Really long. RFG
Day 3 - Totally killer nose - blackberry/raisin custard, Amaretto. Just all over the place - sloppy (in the best sense of that word) - in the mouth. Manages to cut through all the sugar and opulence with tremendous structure, finishing almost like a dry red, but with dessert wine length. Amaretto. Could go blind drinking this.
$35 375mL
Warre's, Vintage Porto 1997
Dull, deep red.
Vinturi - deep, saucy, blackberry jam nose, with celery aspect adding lift (believe it or not). Truffle/earth again, too. I don't see as much brandy showing here. Continues to expand with air.
Really deep and plush, with considerable power. But doesn't show as much complexity (yet) as the '95. Structure is considerable, but it only touches the front teeth. Walnut finish. This stuff is fun to drink.
$35 375mL
Vinturi - deep, saucy, blackberry jam nose, with celery aspect adding lift (believe it or not). Truffle/earth again, too. I don't see as much brandy showing here. Continues to expand with air.
Really deep and plush, with considerable power. But doesn't show as much complexity (yet) as the '95. Structure is considerable, but it only touches the front teeth. Walnut finish. This stuff is fun to drink.
$35 375mL
Warre's "Quinta da Cavadinha" Vintage Porto 1995
Slightly dull red/purple.
Vinturi - medicinal, spicy, inky black fruit, truffle nose. Suggestion of celery (stems?) and brandy, too. Love the nose.
Very deep, powerful, core of spicy black fruit, with brandy and RS surrounding. Finishes with sweetness thoroughly buffered by tannic structure. Actually chewy. I really like this stuff.
$30 375mL
Vinturi - medicinal, spicy, inky black fruit, truffle nose. Suggestion of celery (stems?) and brandy, too. Love the nose.
Very deep, powerful, core of spicy black fruit, with brandy and RS surrounding. Finishes with sweetness thoroughly buffered by tannic structure. Actually chewy. I really like this stuff.
$30 375mL
Friday, June 5, 2009
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2003 Bandol
Deep red.
Vinturi - harmonious nose - iron, black cherry jam, nut liqueur, earth.
Rounder, sweeter (texturally) than the '01, but follows with some serious side teeth tannic clout. Doesn't seem to have the same depth as the '01, just more flashy, initially, thanks to a hotter, "riper" vintage. Tannin level increases as the wine sits.
Day 4 - Vinturi - again, similar to day 1, just deeper. Ditto in the mouth. Tannin is abrasive and unlikely to recede.
$25 These are 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Vinturi - harmonious nose - iron, black cherry jam, nut liqueur, earth.
Rounder, sweeter (texturally) than the '01, but follows with some serious side teeth tannic clout. Doesn't seem to have the same depth as the '01, just more flashy, initially, thanks to a hotter, "riper" vintage. Tannin level increases as the wine sits.
Day 4 - Vinturi - again, similar to day 1, just deeper. Ditto in the mouth. Tannin is abrasive and unlikely to recede.
$25 These are 100% Mourvedre, I think.
Bastide Blanche "Cuvee Estagnol" 2001 Bandol
Red/purple.
Vinturi - menthol/iodine, clay/earth, dried fig, spiced black cherry jam nose. Deep, shows slight heat.
Intense middle-weight. Earth, spice, iodine flavors and, again some heat. Excellent concentration and grainy/chewy finish. I remember enjoying this far more a couple of years ago. But it probably just needs more air and/or cellar time.
Day 4 - Vinturi - same nose, deeper, without any sense of heat. Ditto in the mouth, packed, heat gone. Now this reminds me a bit of the recent Malbecs, only more concentrated, strange as that might sound. Significant acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish, but menthol/iodine action runs through it. Grainy, loaded. Will this drink well for 15-20 more years?
$25
Vinturi - menthol/iodine, clay/earth, dried fig, spiced black cherry jam nose. Deep, shows slight heat.
Intense middle-weight. Earth, spice, iodine flavors and, again some heat. Excellent concentration and grainy/chewy finish. I remember enjoying this far more a couple of years ago. But it probably just needs more air and/or cellar time.
Day 4 - Vinturi - same nose, deeper, without any sense of heat. Ditto in the mouth, packed, heat gone. Now this reminds me a bit of the recent Malbecs, only more concentrated, strange as that might sound. Significant acid/tannin synergy clamps down in the finish, but menthol/iodine action runs through it. Grainy, loaded. Will this drink well for 15-20 more years?
$25
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Eddie Feraud, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2003
Red.
Vinturi - all sorts of stuff going on. Deep kirsch, blood/iron, earth, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs. No sense of heat, just depth.
Round, sweet and loaded in the mouth, too. A bit edgy at the perimeter - CO2, VA? Root veg the dominant theme. Great concentration and length. Need to do a cousin smackdown with a Pegau '03.
$40
Vinturi - all sorts of stuff going on. Deep kirsch, blood/iron, earth, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs. No sense of heat, just depth.
Round, sweet and loaded in the mouth, too. A bit edgy at the perimeter - CO2, VA? Root veg the dominant theme. Great concentration and length. Need to do a cousin smackdown with a Pegau '03.
$40
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Norton, Malbec Reserva, Mendoza 2006
Purple/red.
Vinturi - deep clay/earth, spice, black raspberry jelly nose. Sumptuous.
Round, plush and sweet entry, with moderate tannin. Shows slight heat in the mid-palate, but easily forgiven. Runs the court.
Another stupid value.
$15
Vinturi - deep clay/earth, spice, black raspberry jelly nose. Sumptuous.
Round, plush and sweet entry, with moderate tannin. Shows slight heat in the mid-palate, but easily forgiven. Runs the court.
Another stupid value.
$15
Las Rocas, Garnacha, Catalayud (Spain) 2006
Deep red/purple.
Vinturi - deep earth/meat/citrus nose. Smells even more serious than usual. Iron shows late.
Riper black fruit here along with typical grapefruit zest. Entry and mid-palate show some flesh. Intense, bracing, citrus chew on the ridiculously (for the $$) long finish. Iron shows again.
$12 Is there a better "real wine" value? I wish they'd screwcap this, or use twin top corks. Synthetic (supremekork) currently.
Vinturi - deep earth/meat/citrus nose. Smells even more serious than usual. Iron shows late.
Riper black fruit here along with typical grapefruit zest. Entry and mid-palate show some flesh. Intense, bracing, citrus chew on the ridiculously (for the $$) long finish. Iron shows again.
$12 Is there a better "real wine" value? I wish they'd screwcap this, or use twin top corks. Synthetic (supremekork) currently.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Zenato "Ripassa" Valpolicella Superiore 2005
Saturated red/purple.
Vinturi - deeply pitched aromas of iron/blood, earth, nut liqueur and black fruit. Could be mistaken for a southern Rhone.
Round and plush, huge breadth in the mouth, with iron echoing. Only in the finish, with its tightly knit acid/tannin synergy, does this no longer resemble (most) s. Rhones. This has serious density. I bought a case of the '97 years ago and it drank well for a decade.
$27
Vinturi - deeply pitched aromas of iron/blood, earth, nut liqueur and black fruit. Could be mistaken for a southern Rhone.
Round and plush, huge breadth in the mouth, with iron echoing. Only in the finish, with its tightly knit acid/tannin synergy, does this no longer resemble (most) s. Rhones. This has serious density. I bought a case of the '97 years ago and it drank well for a decade.
$27
Cousino-Macul "Antiguas Reservas" Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2006
Red/purple.
Vinturi - clay/earth, blackcurrant, spearmint nose. Very attractive.
Round and mouth-filling with a very well-integrated acid edge that firms things up without interfering. Flavors mirroring nose with slightly powdery tannin showing on the finish. Extremely well-made and obviously made from excellent fruit. House wine?
$17
Vinturi - clay/earth, blackcurrant, spearmint nose. Very attractive.
Round and mouth-filling with a very well-integrated acid edge that firms things up without interfering. Flavors mirroring nose with slightly powdery tannin showing on the finish. Extremely well-made and obviously made from excellent fruit. House wine?
$17
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Domaine des Remizieres "Cuvee Christophe" Crozes-Hermitage 2003
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - spicy menthol/licorice nose shows a saucy, savory meat quality.
Deep, spicy, saline, grainy entry. Extremely concentrated, but a bit flat in the mid-palate, showing tannin and little else from that point on. Nothing new. I really wonder about most (but not all) 2003 northern Rhone reds.
$32
Vinturi - spicy menthol/licorice nose shows a saucy, savory meat quality.
Deep, spicy, saline, grainy entry. Extremely concentrated, but a bit flat in the mid-palate, showing tannin and little else from that point on. Nothing new. I really wonder about most (but not all) 2003 northern Rhone reds.
$32
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Concha y Toro, "Terrunyo" Carmenere, Block 27 Peumo Vyd 2004
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - packed, deep nose. Earth, deep black fruit, herbs, chocolate, smoked meat. Rolland-esque.
Round and loaded in the mouth. Menthol, black fruit flavors with great mid-palate depth. Tannin level is high, but it gives weight/roundness. Elevage added a great deal here. Light tannic dusting on the front teeth. This rocks. Ringer in a flight of $100 Napa Cabernets?
$35
Vinturi - packed, deep nose. Earth, deep black fruit, herbs, chocolate, smoked meat. Rolland-esque.
Round and loaded in the mouth. Menthol, black fruit flavors with great mid-palate depth. Tannin level is high, but it gives weight/roundness. Elevage added a great deal here. Light tannic dusting on the front teeth. This rocks. Ringer in a flight of $100 Napa Cabernets?
$35
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Matua Valley "Paretai" Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ 2008
Platinum/water.
Discreet, pure, nose - kiwi, asparagus, lemon/lime.
Deep, ripe, fleshy entry (for NZ SB). But also restrained/minerally in the mouth. Very classy, refined action, with fruit, mineral and green notes all registering equally. This is some seriously GS. There's RS here, but folded in brilliantly. I could drink a bottle myself. Mineral/green herb chew hits the front teeth and won't quit.
$20
Discreet, pure, nose - kiwi, asparagus, lemon/lime.
Deep, ripe, fleshy entry (for NZ SB). But also restrained/minerally in the mouth. Very classy, refined action, with fruit, mineral and green notes all registering equally. This is some seriously GS. There's RS here, but folded in brilliantly. I could drink a bottle myself. Mineral/green herb chew hits the front teeth and won't quit.
$20
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Saxum "James Berry Vineyard" Paso Robles 2006
Purple.
Vinturi - high-quality oak toast, light sulfide smoke/nut and an undercurrent of very deep black raspberry coulis.
Round, deep, sweet and completely mouth-filling, but not heavy at all. Extremely deep, sweet black raspberry and earth flavors. Texture/structure tension is fascinating, as this is finely-etched despite its ripeness/size. Not my favorite style, but it's hard not to be impressed by the execution.
$70 (?can't remember) 45% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre 16.6% alcohol (almost no sign of it)
Vinturi - high-quality oak toast, light sulfide smoke/nut and an undercurrent of very deep black raspberry coulis.
Round, deep, sweet and completely mouth-filling, but not heavy at all. Extremely deep, sweet black raspberry and earth flavors. Texture/structure tension is fascinating, as this is finely-etched despite its ripeness/size. Not my favorite style, but it's hard not to be impressed by the execution.
$70 (?can't remember) 45% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre 16.6% alcohol (almost no sign of it)
Ecluse "Rendition" Paso Robles 2006
Red/purple.
Vinturi - smoke/earth/nut/black fruit liqueur/coconut nose.
Round, sensual, mouth-filling. Packed and slightly grainy tannin (good thing), but no hard edges here. Even gives the front teeth a light dusting of "chew". Paso style, but this has the guts to keep it from being sweet and one-dimensional.
$40? Gift 59% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 19% Mourvedre
Vinturi - smoke/earth/nut/black fruit liqueur/coconut nose.
Round, sensual, mouth-filling. Packed and slightly grainy tannin (good thing), but no hard edges here. Even gives the front teeth a light dusting of "chew". Paso style, but this has the guts to keep it from being sweet and one-dimensional.
$40? Gift 59% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 19% Mourvedre
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Domaine Santa Duc "Hautes Garrigues" Gigondas 1999
Dull, deep red.
Vinturi - savory meat/nut/earth, black cherry coulis, oak spice nose. Sumptuous, deep.
Round, with some textural sweetness. Then some serious (stem?) tannin impact in the mid-palate. Licorice, garrigue flavors dominate. Far better aromatically than my last bottle, but still wildly bound up in the mouth. I believe this is 100% whole cluster/long maceration (30+ days). Will this ever unwind?
$45
Vinturi - savory meat/nut/earth, black cherry coulis, oak spice nose. Sumptuous, deep.
Round, with some textural sweetness. Then some serious (stem?) tannin impact in the mid-palate. Licorice, garrigue flavors dominate. Far better aromatically than my last bottle, but still wildly bound up in the mouth. I believe this is 100% whole cluster/long maceration (30+ days). Will this ever unwind?
$45
Domaine la Bouissiere, Gigondas 1999
Deep red.
Vinturi - less complex than the Cayron, but deeper/more plush, with some oak influence showing on the nose. Grilled meat/vegetable stew.
Deep and intense in the mouth, again shows veg character that is not unattractive combined with red and black fruit. More structured than the Cayron. I shot a biscuit over a bottle of this a couple of years ago, but this isn't quite at that level.
$25
Vinturi - less complex than the Cayron, but deeper/more plush, with some oak influence showing on the nose. Grilled meat/vegetable stew.
Deep and intense in the mouth, again shows veg character that is not unattractive combined with red and black fruit. More structured than the Cayron. I shot a biscuit over a bottle of this a couple of years ago, but this isn't quite at that level.
$25
Domaine du Cayron, Gigondas 1999
Red, slight brick at rim.
Vinturi - iron, deep black cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/nut liqueur, licorice nose. This was marked by Brett in its early years, but now has integrated it. Rocks.
Round and generous, with an edge of acidity that increasingly constricts the sides of the mouth. Very good mid-palate stuffing, with most of the aromatic components echoed. Still a bit chewy in the finish, but nothing decent food can't handle.
RFG. Iron filing chew persists.
$25
Vinturi - iron, deep black cherry jam, grilled herbs, earth/nut liqueur, licorice nose. This was marked by Brett in its early years, but now has integrated it. Rocks.
Round and generous, with an edge of acidity that increasingly constricts the sides of the mouth. Very good mid-palate stuffing, with most of the aromatic components echoed. Still a bit chewy in the finish, but nothing decent food can't handle.
RFG. Iron filing chew persists.
$25
Saturday, May 16, 2009
Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja 2004
Saturated purple.
Vinturi - hazelnut, earth, shoe polish, baked black fruit, licorice nose. Later - iron in the empty glass.
Round and mouth-filling initially, then significant acid-driven tannin constricts the side teeth. Runs on two tracks. shows a bit of citrus and red fruit in the mid-palate. Interestingly, this is more bound up than the Numanthia. But both are loaded and need many more years in bottle.
Day 4 - More contained than the Numanthia, no gimmicks. Still suave and integrated. Deep. Some caramelized fruit, easy access, with acid structure on the front teeth. Fairly stiff, actually.
$60
Vinturi - hazelnut, earth, shoe polish, baked black fruit, licorice nose. Later - iron in the empty glass.
Round and mouth-filling initially, then significant acid-driven tannin constricts the side teeth. Runs on two tracks. shows a bit of citrus and red fruit in the mid-palate. Interestingly, this is more bound up than the Numanthia. But both are loaded and need many more years in bottle.
Day 4 - More contained than the Numanthia, no gimmicks. Still suave and integrated. Deep. Some caramelized fruit, easy access, with acid structure on the front teeth. Fairly stiff, actually.
$60
Numanthia, Toro (Spain) 2004
Purple.
Vinturi - suave, refined nose - toasted nut, grilled meat, inky black fruit/baked earth and licorice.
Covers the mouth horizontally, with acid/tannin synergy adding real restraint immediately. Nevertheless, black fruit and spice flavors manage to ride through it. Intensely flavored, center-packed. Extremely well-made, fine wine.
Day 4 - Showing its toasted oak/marshmallow/coconut side. Great depth of flavor, but one-dimensional.
-
$45
Vinturi - suave, refined nose - toasted nut, grilled meat, inky black fruit/baked earth and licorice.
Covers the mouth horizontally, with acid/tannin synergy adding real restraint immediately. Nevertheless, black fruit and spice flavors manage to ride through it. Intensely flavored, center-packed. Extremely well-made, fine wine.
Day 4 - Showing its toasted oak/marshmallow/coconut side. Great depth of flavor, but one-dimensional.
-
$45
Saturday, May 9, 2009
J.L. Chave "Offerus" St Joseph 2003
Deep red.
Vinturi - licorice, earth, menthol, game, iron, black fruit, shoe polish and grilled herbs on the nose. Even-keeled, subtle, deep.
Round and mouth-filling. Has an edge of green herb acidity that increasingly constricts the finish. Front teeth coated in N. Rhone veg/acid/tannin/mineral chew. But not brutal. Authentic N. Rhone Syrah, and cheap, really.
$28
Vinturi - licorice, earth, menthol, game, iron, black fruit, shoe polish and grilled herbs on the nose. Even-keeled, subtle, deep.
Round and mouth-filling. Has an edge of green herb acidity that increasingly constricts the finish. Front teeth coated in N. Rhone veg/acid/tannin/mineral chew. But not brutal. Authentic N. Rhone Syrah, and cheap, really.
$28
Reustle "Prayer Rock" Gruner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley (OR) 2007
Platinum.
Ripe, easy nose - pear, spiced apple - with a lentil undertone.
Fairly (rs) sweet entry. Flavors are centered around perfectly ripe pear and apple, with some welcome spiciness and mineral/acid synergy cutting through. This is reasonably well-balanced, but a bit too sweet for me. But it would be really easy to get lucky with this wine in hand. Alcohol (14.9%) is completely hidden.
$22
Ripe, easy nose - pear, spiced apple - with a lentil undertone.
Fairly (rs) sweet entry. Flavors are centered around perfectly ripe pear and apple, with some welcome spiciness and mineral/acid synergy cutting through. This is reasonably well-balanced, but a bit too sweet for me. But it would be really easy to get lucky with this wine in hand. Alcohol (14.9%) is completely hidden.
$22
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Domaine Bois de Boursan "Felix" Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1999
Deep red.
Vinturi- grilled herbs, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs, iron, cherry liqueur, grilled meat nose. Smells like a north/south hybrid. Interesting, killer.
Round and far more giving than the Lopy. Pepper as a flavor addition to the nose. Acid-driven structure is significant, but in the background. This would be great with real food. My first bottle, on release (2001?), was a Brett-bomb. But this has moved beyond that nicely. No doubt some of the "savory" character is Brett/bottle age-derived.
Day 5 - dried herbs/flowers, cherry jam, charcoal nose. Easily confused with Barolo. Killer. Expansive, deep and long.
$40 on release
Vinturi- grilled herbs, hazelnut liqueur, wilted herbs, iron, cherry liqueur, grilled meat nose. Smells like a north/south hybrid. Interesting, killer.
Round and far more giving than the Lopy. Pepper as a flavor addition to the nose. Acid-driven structure is significant, but in the background. This would be great with real food. My first bottle, on release (2001?), was a Brett-bomb. But this has moved beyond that nicely. No doubt some of the "savory" character is Brett/bottle age-derived.
Day 5 - dried herbs/flowers, cherry jam, charcoal nose. Easily confused with Barolo. Killer. Expansive, deep and long.
$40 on release
Sang des Cailloux "Lopy" Vacqueyras 1999
Deep red.
Vinturi - iron/earth, grilled herbs, toasted nut nose. Deep.
Intense middle-weight. Linear/nonfat. Flavors following nose. No fruit showing, although I remember a huge core of intense black fruit several years ago. Serve this as a sipping wine to a guest you never want to see again. Needs fat and protein.
$25 on release
Vinturi - iron/earth, grilled herbs, toasted nut nose. Deep.
Intense middle-weight. Linear/nonfat. Flavors following nose. No fruit showing, although I remember a huge core of intense black fruit several years ago. Serve this as a sipping wine to a guest you never want to see again. Needs fat and protein.
$25 on release
Monday, May 4, 2009
Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain 1997
Deep red.
Vinturi - mellow, toasted nut, macaroon, licorice, blackcurrant, shoe polish nose.
Round, with great mid-palate flesh and black fruit/spice flavor. Which is not to say that this doesn't have serious tannic backbone. Mint character kicks in on the finish. Many years to go.
Day 3 - Same mellow nose, but now integrated and totally satisfying/killer. Ditto in the mouth - deep and rich with acid/tannin synergy definitely taking a back seat. Not "huge", but built beautifully.
$50.
Vinturi - mellow, toasted nut, macaroon, licorice, blackcurrant, shoe polish nose.
Round, with great mid-palate flesh and black fruit/spice flavor. Which is not to say that this doesn't have serious tannic backbone. Mint character kicks in on the finish. Many years to go.
Day 3 - Same mellow nose, but now integrated and totally satisfying/killer. Ditto in the mouth - deep and rich with acid/tannin synergy definitely taking a back seat. Not "huge", but built beautifully.
$50.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006
Red/purple.
Vinturi - earth, hazelnut liqueur, pepper. Deep, fruit submerged. Again, an iron note as it airs. A floral element also.
Intense and vibrant in the mouth, with a (believe it or not) citrus zest pungency/chew that hits the front teeth. I (almost) never get citrus in French Grenache. Deeper and more refined than Las Rocas, but I'll be damned if there isn't a family resemblance.
$50
Vinturi - earth, hazelnut liqueur, pepper. Deep, fruit submerged. Again, an iron note as it airs. A floral element also.
Intense and vibrant in the mouth, with a (believe it or not) citrus zest pungency/chew that hits the front teeth. I (almost) never get citrus in French Grenache. Deeper and more refined than Las Rocas, but I'll be damned if there isn't a family resemblance.
$50
Las Rocas, Garnacha, Catalayud (Spain) 2005
Deep red.
Low-toned nose - peanut sauce/garrigue/raspberry coulis/earth. Iron too, with air.
Brighter in the mouth, with tell-tale grapefruit zest chew/flavor dominating. Undertones of earth, iron and cherry jam.
Hard to beat at the price. Hopefully Gallo will go back to natural cork, or, better, screwcaps. This is a synthetic version. Very oxidative, thus no Vinturi used.
$11
Low-toned nose - peanut sauce/garrigue/raspberry coulis/earth. Iron too, with air.
Brighter in the mouth, with tell-tale grapefruit zest chew/flavor dominating. Undertones of earth, iron and cherry jam.
Hard to beat at the price. Hopefully Gallo will go back to natural cork, or, better, screwcaps. This is a synthetic version. Very oxidative, thus no Vinturi used.
$11
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Domaine la Soumade "Fleur de Confiance" Rasteau 2000
Red/purple.
Vinturi - raspberry sauce, toasted hazelnut , earth, pepper nose. Shows a bit of heat.
Round and mouth-filling, with alcohol and relatively strong acidity giving a dis-jointed impression. Also shows blurry flavors. Much stronger acid/tannin synergy attacks the front teeth. Also needs time, and some lamb cassoulet.
$40. Andre Romero's top of the line bottling
Vinturi - raspberry sauce, toasted hazelnut , earth, pepper nose. Shows a bit of heat.
Round and mouth-filling, with alcohol and relatively strong acidity giving a dis-jointed impression. Also shows blurry flavors. Much stronger acid/tannin synergy attacks the front teeth. Also needs time, and some lamb cassoulet.
$40. Andre Romero's top of the line bottling
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